"PLANNED OBSOLESCENCE." Reality bites hard! I went from 7,500k oil-changes, to 5,000k oil-changes as per Scotty Kilmer's advice. You just reinforced my decision! Thanks, again!
I do know one thing. No one ever damaged an engine because they changed the oil too soon, as long as they used the correct products and did the work correctly. The minimum rather than maximum oil change interval always put you on the safe side.
@@CubanRedneck People adhere to different mechanical theories. The synthetic oil fanatics talk about the ability of their product to to neutralize acids and suspend contaminants even at high mileage and about oil analysis results after as much as 25,000 miles. My thought is, if you use a more economical product meeting the specifications of the engine and change it early, those acids and contaminants are never there in the first place. I have a 2001 4cyl Camry. I drive all short trips. I use a Supertech filter and dino or semi oil and change it at 2500-2800 miles. The car is too easy to work on to get a pricier product and wait out a longer change interval not knowing how the oil is really performing. I say, if you stay within the specifications of the products you are using and the specifications of the production itself, you are not going to have an oil-related problem. A big issue, though, is what type of driving the vehicle is being used for. People do not want to accept that their constant short trips to the local stores and eateries constitute severe duty. But they do. Just saw another videocaster who dissected this issue. He said, the simple rule is, if you drive all short trips or drive very little, cut the oil change interval in half. I consider the interval with dino or semi oil to be 5000 miles max. Half of that is the 2500 miles. The 3000 mile recommendation of the past may have been based on the presumption that most drivers are doing all in-town driving. I'm old enough to remember what a mess the 1960s-era American cast iron engines ended up being due to lack of aggressive maintenance. The straight sixes often survived it. The V-8 engines did not. Not very well. They had stuck rings. Oil leaks. Worn bores. Clogged cooling systems. Oil consumption due both to the cylinders and the valve stem seals and guides. Poor oil pressure due to worn bearings. What did I miss? Well, maybe they had burnt valves because of the exhaust leaks and upper cylinder area deposits too. Oh yeah, and the bad head gaskets. People who did the maintenance often kept these going a very long time though.
@@anonymike8280my wife’s 4Runner gets driven 6-7k miles a year so I do it every 6 months for good measure. BTW lots of short trips as you can tell by the mileage. I also take it to work monthly so I can get up to 70-80 miles an hour to try to avoid carbon build up.
My oil life moniter is my own eyes. The darker it gets the more I change it. If it's burning I up the viscosity and add lucas until blowby stops burning oil and oil dilution is not happening... You have to realize no one pulls over on the road to change their oil. We plan on 5000 km. But often often I don't get to it for a bit..
... well that is the whole point! I have no idea who came up with this 15,000 mile OCS but the fact is that engines are failing with as little as 30k miles and nobody is talking about this! Thank you for stopping by!
New oil is good oil for your engine. I drive a 2011 supercharged Mustang GT and I live in California where I’m usually in stop and go traffic or behind some slow ass drivers. I change mine every 3k miles with full synthetic. My car is my daily. Sometimes I change it early because I check my oil regularly and you’ll notice your oil degrading and it just evaporates due to heat and if anyone knows about the Coyote engine, they throw out so much heat
…. Thank you for stopping by! I AGREE 100% … but you should read some of the comments by many with “0” mechanical background, who have been sold on these 10,000 ~ 15,000-mile oil change intervals. The fact is that engines are failing with as little as 50k miles. What’s worse is no one is talking about it!
Well done! change my oil on my 17 cummins about once a year or 10-12k miles since 2018. I got it with 21k miles. I will send a oil sample to blackstone labs this spring to see how it holding up.
3k intervals for my Prius 2k for my gdi dirty engine Genesis. Both are driven short distances and I change my own oil 180k miles on my Prius and 37k miles on my 2012 Genesis
Interesting video and a good topic! I own 2nd gen Honda Fit and 2nd gen Acura RL. Honda fit doesn't need any oil between oil changes, so all is good. Car monitor tells me to change oil at ~4.5k miles. On my Acura(J37 engine), the story is a bit different because of low tension piston rings. There seem to be more blow-by and oil gets darker after 1500k miles(mostly city driving) and around 2k, engine starts to consume oil. Then by 2.5k, oil is half-way on the dipstick and by 2.7 to 3k, the oil lever is about 1/4th on the dipstick. If I add half-quart oil, it will eat it in about 500 miles, so I just change it 3k miles without needing to add any. I use synthetic blend and/or full synthetic oil of a correct viscosity(whichever is on sale).
… thank you for stopping by and sharing. Back in the day, I did quite a bit of racing and performance work on B18s, but I can’t say I have opened the hood of a Honda in the last decade. With that said, what you are describing is a well-known issue regardless of brand. 5000+ miles oil change intervals don’t work and are causing modern engines to fail prematurely.
@@CubanRedneck If car makers wouldn't have to meet some "fuel saving" standards, the oil consumption issue would probably not exist. Honda J35 engines didn't really have issues with oil consumption(some exceptions) as engine block and pistons/rings designs were not yet changed. I guess with J37, Honda didn't make necessary changes to on-board computer so it would calculate oil change interval earlier than was on J35. Have a friend with 2005 Acura MDX with J35 engine and it doesn't really consume any measurable amount of oil and it stays much cleaner. To avoid expensive repairs down the road, it is better to change oil a bit early depending on the vehicle.
My wifes 2015 Honda Accord oil still looks new when the light comes on. It uses a little more oil than the 06 Pontiac Torrent. I told her the Pontiac will outlast her Honda because it has a better oil filter. Dont have her trained yet.
I gave up allowing the oil to get dirty then changing it in 1963 with a Frantz oil cleaner and Standard Delo 30W. We changed the filters more often in those days. My Pontiac Torrent has a Australian Jackmaster Classic and gets a filter change and a new quart of synthetic. I try to avoid reasons for an oil change such as a leaky head gasket.
Ah, those naysayers. You're doing a great job with these videos, sir. It would be awesome to see a future ATF or coolant change video. An engine or cabin filter video would be good, too 👍🏻 Cheers!
I dont change the ATF. I have a Motor Guard oil cleaner on the Pontiac. It has a Toyota transmission. The dipstick is under the car. The best way to get to it is to remove a motor mount. Still works good at 207.000 miles. Shouldnt need to remove the oil pan in my lifetime.The best thing to flush the transmission is clean ATF.
Flushed the cooling system. Got coolant in the computer. The new computer had to match the VIN number. Then the computer had to be programmed for everything including the anti theft system.
@@CubanRedneckI drive my ‘12 Honda Accord mostly hwy miles. I change my oil every 3 months or about 6700 miles. Is it safe to do this or should I drop the oci to 5000 miles?
22 GM 2500 HD 6.6 gas engine, light towing in NC. Under warranty so the dealer I have change every 5k with AC Delco Synthetic 5w30 and AC Delco with a Tire rotation! The oil30k miles currently and sticking to this routine! Once the warranty out I will change myself. The oil change monitor says I’m at 40-45 percent when do 5 k oil changes which means if follow that I’m at 8500 on oil changes! No thanks! 5-6 k with synthetic and quality filter and never have an issue.
I had 1.4L Cruze that ran over 250k miles because I change the every 3k mile and service the transmission every 60k miles, I had to replace a lot of original equipment but never the engine and transmission, turbos are hell on engine so 3k was a good interval according to my mechanic friend, oil changes are cheap engines are expensive. The frequency in which you change the oil is more important that brand name.
There is nothing wrong with factoring in engine run time. Especially if you idle a lot. The more parameters you use, the more accurate your maintenance routine will be. I do 5k OCI kirkand 5w30 full syn and OEM filter on a 2006 Matrix with over 226,000 miles and its runs perfect.
Though oil changes are required, they are also like something you don't have to have, but should: insurance. Buy as much or as little insurance as you want. Change your oil as frequently or as infrequently as you want. One's decision can be as uninformed as this. One could also listen to your advise and other's, ponder the advise, and arrive at their own informed decision. I liked your telling of your father and you performing regular maintenance on the MONEY MAKER boat. Invest a little to get a lot back.
… I hear you, brother, and agree 100%. However, common sense does not exist in today's society. To me, $35 and $ 35 minutes is much cheaper than a new engine. Especially when today, they don't make them as they used to. Nevertheless, you should read some of the comments.. Thank you for the visit!
My racing buddies would change oil 2000 to 3000 miles on high compression or turbo charged, or super rev engines.I change at 6 months or 3000 miles to maximize longevity! My generators and mowers go 100 hours. How many hours does your auto go? 4000 at 40mph with 10% idle time? 100 hours??? Could be? My oil is golden brown, Never black or muddy. A fresh filter and fresh oil is best. I go syn blend or full syn.
Manufacturer oil change interval recommendations are multifaceted. And have very little to do with taking good care of your engine. They are trying to fit their total fleet waste into the government green targets. They only need your engine to get to the end of the warranty. They are targeting a total maintenance cost to entice more sales. Wear metals for a new engine are quite high and an early change is smart. Wear metals seem to increases linearly, so extended oil change intervals will definitely have accumulated wear metals. The oil itself may well still have viable components, but will be contaminated. Change your oil.
... thank you for stopping by, and I agree 100%. However, if you read some of the comments, you will realize how indoctrinated and ignorant this world has become. While it is easy to identify those that have never gapped a main bearing or possess any engineering background, it is truly remarkable how things that make absolutely no common sense as said by the mainstream media, for example, and or printed by a magazine or newspaper and out of the blue that becomes the new law of physics!
Thank you for your informative video. I have a question, do oil coolers on trucks, do any good? I ordered the tow package on a Maverick, not because I plan on towing anything larger than a jet ski, but I thought the larger radiator, transmission oil cooler, would help the turbocharged engine during day to day driving. Was this a good decision?
… thank you for stopping by! Lowering oil temperature is highly beneficial to any engine, from a motorcycle to a tractor. That said, if you are not going to tow all the time, I am not 100% sure that the tow package is the best option. However, if you are not into getting dirty, ordering upgrades like this is never wrong. FYI - This choice is one with which I struggle all the way to the order process. And yes, the 4k package has an engine and transmission cooler, a larger fan, and radiator. However, after going to the parts department and seeing the exploded view of parts, I was left with a feeling that the upgrades were very mundane. Knowing me, I see myself having to upgrade them as many of my friends with Mustangs and F Series have done. But, what turned me off about the 4K package was the final gear ratio. The 2k towing option has a final gear ratio of 3.63:1 vs. 3.81:1 for the 4K model. This is a turn-off because I love doing weekend excursions anywhere from 100 to 300 miles from my home. In other words, optimum MPG is more important at highway speed. With the 3.81:1 gears, the engine will be spinning at about 2100 RPM @ 75 MPH compared to about 1950 with 3.63:1. I "will" be towing a 17' MAKO skiff, which is right at 2k dry, but I don't foresee any issues with that after the addition of a large transmission and engine oil cooler. I think the fan is adequate, but I will also vent the engine compartment by opening the side gills. All of this stuff is in somewhat of an R&D process. We have a small group of local Maverick owners, some of which are dealer techs playing around with different things, including oil coolers, trying to figure out what yields the best performance. I look forward to sharing some of that stuff once and "if" proven effective. Thank you for watching!
The simple answer is to change your oil when it starts getting dark brown and before it gets black. Also, no need for all this flushing hype either, modern oils have detergents to keep your engine clean. Oil stands up and long time, that's not the issue anymore. There are really only two issues. Moister and carbon levels from blowby. If you don't drive much, moisture will get in your oil and acidify. This is solved by driving for 30 minutes once a month, minimum. Carbon levels in the oil will be from how tight the engine is and how the car is driven. So once a month with a warm engine, pull out the dip stick and wipe with white paper towel or let drip on white sheet of paper. If dirty, time to change your oil. This time will vary on how you have been driving your car. A blind time or mileage change is unnecessary and ineffective. Why are you changing clean oil or why did you wait to change black oil? Why not change brown oil? See what I mean? Oil stands up these days, so after a year or even 10,000 miles, the oil itself will still test good, but high concentrations of carbon (microscopic sandpaper) will cause damage. A very tight engine driven gently may still have golden oil after 5000 miles so why change it? If you are slamming around, the oil might be dark brown at 3000 miles, so change it. Why change your oil on some schedule when you can see how it’s doing and change it then?
… thank you for stopping by. That is precisely my point. Read the oil, not the schedule, but if you read the comments on the first oil change on my Maverick, one would think I have gallons of top-secret classified oils in my garage. This started when my truck was called in for a software update, and I asked about the break-in period. The service adviser looked up and said 10K. That did not sound kosher to me, but what do I know? Anyhow, I was getting ready to go on a 1000+ road trip, so I checked all my fluids to find a strong smell of gas and super dark oil with visible floating carbon particles at 2500 miles. I change the oil and put out a video to let people know to pay attention to the oil and not the recommendation or schedule. You really need to read the comments. th-cam.com/video/8HoYQ3yzl-Y/w-d-xo.html The flat earthers and naysayers came out in force! I have several friends who are master techs at dealers, and what they are seeing and reporting about people who follow the manufacturer's schedule is crazy!
I thought I was the king of long-winded comments, but you did pretty good. My theory is, even if an engine is sludged because of poor maintenance, the best course is to just accelerate the oil change interval. In general, the sludge just adheres to the inert parts of the engine and doesn't do anything otherwise. If the engine only requires conventional oil, just use semisynthetic and change it at 2500 miles, or sooner if it turns dark. Eventually, you will clear the sludge out. I'm an advocate of keeping oil change intervals though.
…thank you for stopping by! That is well within the range and a practice with a well-documented success rate. My beef is with the 10~15k oil change intervals, which are causing engines to fail, and nobody is talking about it as if it did not exist!
@@CubanRedneck I completely agree with you. Can't take anything at face value anymore with almost everything. I like to buy quality items that I love, customized to my tastes and take great care of them
Sound advice especially on the 300ZX TT. I failed to change mine after 5K and resulted in one of the turbos blowing. They were Sport 500 turbos with a JWT (Jim Wolf Technologies) ECU. Suffice to say it was costly and a lesson learned.
... thank you for stopping by! 5K works great on naturally aspirated engines; on turbo or supercharged engines that are driven in heavy traffic, 3~4k is a safer option. And without a doubt, the quality of the oil is everything!
… hey, thank you for your visit. Just about every gauge company out there makes an hour meter. Autometer and Borg Warner are the leading brands, but I have had good luck with a brand called Runleader. I have a friend the owns a tow truck company, and I installed about a dozen of these years ago. To the best of my knowledge, they are all working still - www.amazon.com/dp/B07RHMGNHT?tag=vert0a-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1 If you want a little more functionality, this is what I have on my bike. Harley doesn’t believe in tacks or temp gauges - www.amazon.com/dp/B092CDSQ33?tag=vert0a-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1
2003 Ford F150, 4.2L...............2013 Subaru Legacy, 2.5L .................................. Change your motor oil ................. Period, unless you just like buying a new car every several years
I want to add something here. There is no need for an ordinary driver to ever do an oil analysis. Oil analysis is for people who are using expensive, high-end products and want to justify their choice or for fleet operators who want to know how long they can safely go between oil changes. Everybody else, use whatever the cheapest products you can find and change the oil early. Low-end and no name oil filters are good for 5000 miles, but no more. Regardless of what kind of oil you are using, if your oil change interval is 5000 miles of less, you do not need a special filter.
8:00 I know from experience in aviation, trucking, construction and agricultural mechanics, hours are the standard used for maintenance intervals across the board. Only in the automotive world is mileage used. Engineers are to be advised, NOT worshiped as prophets of truth. Everything... and I mean every thing in today's automotive world is engineered for the cheapest possible cost, NOT for longevity. Oil additives are viewed through the lens of cost, NOT what's best for the engine.
… I guess you mean ”The Truth About How Often Do You Need Oil Changes” .. the answer to that is the video. You should change your oil when there are substantial amounts of suspended particles, when the oil has a strong smell of gasoline, or when its viscosity varieties from the specified. The point is that the general OCI pushed onto car manufacturers by the EPA should be taken with a grain of salt. OCI should trigger by driving conditions, NOT mileage. As I mentioned in the video, hours is a better protocol.
… thank you for stopping by. I agree 100%, but take a look at the owner’s manual of any 2024 vehicle, and they are talking about 10K, 20K, and even 25K miles between oil changes! The funny thing is that the warranties have not been expanded, and no new discovery has been made in engine lubrication, rod, or main bearing!
"PLANNED OBSOLESCENCE." Reality bites hard! I went from 7,500k oil-changes, to 5,000k oil-changes as per Scotty Kilmer's advice. You just reinforced my decision! Thanks, again!
He still alive?
I do know one thing. No one ever damaged an engine because they changed the oil too soon, as long as they used the correct products and did the work correctly. The minimum rather than maximum oil change interval always put you on the safe side.
...lol *AGREE 100%* but did you read some of the comments! 🤣
@@CubanRedneck People adhere to different mechanical theories. The synthetic oil fanatics talk about the ability of their product to to neutralize acids and suspend contaminants even at high mileage and about oil analysis results after as much as 25,000 miles. My thought is, if you use a more economical product meeting the specifications of the engine and change it early, those acids and contaminants are never there in the first place.
I have a 2001 4cyl Camry. I drive all short trips. I use a Supertech filter and dino or semi oil and change it at 2500-2800 miles. The car is too easy to work on to get a pricier product and wait out a longer change interval not knowing how the oil is really performing.
I say, if you stay within the specifications of the products you are using and the specifications of the production itself, you are not going to have an oil-related problem.
A big issue, though, is what type of driving the vehicle is being used for. People do not want to accept that their constant short trips to the local stores and eateries constitute severe duty. But they do. Just saw another videocaster who dissected this issue. He said, the simple rule is, if you drive all short trips or drive very little, cut the oil change interval in half.
I consider the interval with dino or semi oil to be 5000 miles max. Half of that is the 2500 miles. The 3000 mile recommendation of the past may have been based on the presumption that most drivers are doing all in-town driving.
I'm old enough to remember what a mess the 1960s-era American cast iron engines ended up being due to lack of aggressive maintenance. The straight sixes often survived it. The V-8 engines did not. Not very well. They had stuck rings. Oil leaks. Worn bores. Clogged cooling systems. Oil consumption due both to the cylinders and the valve stem seals and guides. Poor oil pressure due to worn bearings. What did I miss? Well, maybe they had burnt valves because of the exhaust leaks and upper cylinder area deposits too. Oh yeah, and the bad head gaskets.
People who did the maintenance often kept these going a very long time though.
@@anonymike8280 100% on point!
@@anonymike8280my wife’s 4Runner gets driven 6-7k miles a year so I do it every 6 months for good measure. BTW lots of short trips as you can tell by the mileage. I also take it to work monthly so I can get up to 70-80 miles an hour to try to avoid carbon build up.
My oil life moniter is my own eyes. The darker it gets the more I change it. If it's burning I up the viscosity and add lucas until blowby stops burning oil and oil dilution is not happening...
You have to realize no one pulls over on the road to change their oil. We plan on 5000 km. But often often I don't get to it for a bit..
Change with full synthetic every 4,000 to 5,000 miles. Best would be 3,000 miles. I do a drain and fill go my transmission every 10,000 miles
... well that is the whole point! I have no idea who came up with this 15,000 mile OCS but the fact is that engines are failing with as little as 30k miles and nobody is talking about this! Thank you for stopping by!
Great video. Thank you
…. Thank you for stopping by. I appreciate you!
I like your thinking. You're very objective.
I share your opinion
I appreciate that! ...thank you for stopping by!
New oil is good oil for your engine. I drive a 2011 supercharged Mustang GT and I live in California where I’m usually in stop and go traffic or behind some slow ass drivers. I change mine every 3k miles with full synthetic. My car is my daily. Sometimes I change it early because I check my oil regularly and you’ll notice your oil degrading and it just evaporates due to heat and if anyone knows about the Coyote engine, they throw out so much heat
…. Thank you for stopping by! I AGREE 100% … but you should read some of the comments by many with “0” mechanical background, who have been sold on these 10,000 ~ 15,000-mile oil change intervals. The fact is that engines are failing with as little as 50k miles. What’s worse is no one is talking about it!
Well done! change my oil on my 17 cummins about once a year or 10-12k miles since 2018. I got it with 21k miles. I will send a oil sample to blackstone labs this spring to see how it holding up.
... thank you for stopping by!
This is a must WATCH video.....TWICE.......!!!!
Thank you for your ORATION of this Subject.....,...
... thank you!
3k intervals for my Prius 2k for my gdi dirty engine Genesis. Both are driven short distances and I change my own oil 180k miles on my Prius and 37k miles on my 2012 Genesis
… thank you for stopping by. That’s what I say, but don’t tell that to the new generation!
Great video,keep the honesty and truth coming.
... thanks, and tank you for stopping by!
Interesting video and a good topic! I own 2nd gen Honda Fit and 2nd gen Acura RL. Honda fit doesn't need any oil between oil changes, so all is good. Car monitor tells me to change oil at ~4.5k miles. On my Acura(J37 engine), the story is a bit different because of low tension piston rings. There seem to be more blow-by and oil gets darker after 1500k miles(mostly city driving) and around 2k, engine starts to consume oil. Then by 2.5k, oil is half-way on the dipstick and by 2.7 to 3k, the oil lever is about 1/4th on the dipstick. If I add half-quart oil, it will eat it in about 500 miles, so I just change it 3k miles without needing to add any. I use synthetic blend and/or full synthetic oil of a correct viscosity(whichever is on sale).
… thank you for stopping by and sharing. Back in the day, I did quite a bit of racing and performance work on B18s, but I can’t say I have opened the hood of a Honda in the last decade. With that said, what you are describing is a well-known issue regardless of brand. 5000+ miles oil change intervals don’t work and are causing modern engines to fail prematurely.
@@CubanRedneck If car makers wouldn't have to meet some "fuel saving" standards, the oil consumption issue would probably not exist. Honda J35 engines didn't really have issues with oil consumption(some exceptions) as engine block and pistons/rings designs were not yet changed. I guess with J37, Honda didn't make necessary changes to on-board computer so it would calculate oil change interval earlier than was on J35. Have a friend with 2005 Acura MDX with J35 engine and it doesn't really consume any measurable amount of oil and it stays much cleaner. To avoid expensive repairs down the road, it is better to change oil a bit early depending on the vehicle.
Makes good sense.
My wifes 2015 Honda Accord oil still looks new when the light comes on. It uses a little more oil than the 06 Pontiac Torrent. I told her the Pontiac will outlast her Honda because it has a better oil filter. Dont have her trained yet.
I gave up allowing the oil to get dirty then changing it in 1963 with a Frantz oil cleaner and Standard Delo 30W. We changed the filters more often in those days. My Pontiac Torrent has a Australian Jackmaster Classic and gets a filter change and a new quart of synthetic. I try to avoid reasons for an oil change such as a leaky head gasket.
Ah, those naysayers. You're doing a great job with these videos, sir. It would be awesome to see a future ATF or coolant change video. An engine or cabin filter video would be good, too 👍🏻 Cheers!
Great suggestion! Thank you for watching!
I dont change the ATF. I have a Motor Guard oil cleaner on the Pontiac. It has a Toyota transmission. The dipstick is under the car. The best way to get to it is to remove a motor mount. Still works good at 207.000 miles. Shouldnt need to remove the oil pan in my lifetime.The best thing to flush the transmission is clean ATF.
Flushed the cooling system. Got coolant in the computer. The new computer had to match the VIN number. Then the computer had to be programmed for everything including the anti theft system.
Change my oil every 3000 miles. I guess that is why it still works after 213K.
... that is the way to go! Thank you for stopping by!
@@CubanRedneckI drive my ‘12 Honda Accord mostly hwy miles. I change my oil every 3 months or about 6700 miles. Is it safe to do this or should I drop the oci to 5000 miles?
100% right the automobile industry is not looking at your best interest
22 GM 2500 HD 6.6 gas engine, light towing in NC. Under warranty so the dealer I have change every 5k with AC Delco Synthetic 5w30 and AC Delco with a Tire rotation! The oil30k miles currently and sticking to this routine! Once the warranty out I will change myself. The oil change monitor says I’m at 40-45 percent when do 5 k oil changes which means if follow that I’m at 8500 on oil changes! No thanks! 5-6 k with synthetic and quality filter and never have an issue.
I had 1.4L Cruze that ran over 250k miles because I change the every 3k mile and service the transmission every 60k miles, I had to replace a lot of original equipment but never the engine and transmission, turbos are hell on engine so 3k was a good interval according to my mechanic friend, oil changes are cheap engines are expensive. The frequency in which you change the oil is more important that brand name.
... that's my whole point! Thank you for stopping by!
Flat earthers is the perfect name for these weirdos. They REFUSE to understand.
.... 😊 ♥️🙏 Thank you for stopping by!
There is nothing wrong with factoring in engine run time. Especially if you idle a lot. The more parameters you use, the more accurate your maintenance routine will be. I do 5k OCI kirkand 5w30 full syn and OEM filter on a 2006 Matrix with over 226,000 miles and its runs perfect.
Though oil changes are required, they are also like something you don't have to have, but should: insurance. Buy as much or as little insurance as you want. Change your oil as frequently or as infrequently as you want. One's decision can be as uninformed as this. One could also listen to your advise and other's, ponder the advise, and arrive at their own informed decision. I liked your telling of your father and you performing regular maintenance on the MONEY MAKER boat. Invest a little to get a lot back.
… I hear you, brother, and agree 100%. However, common sense does not exist in today's society. To me, $35 and $ 35 minutes is much cheaper than a new engine. Especially when today, they don't make them as they used to. Nevertheless, you should read some of the comments.. Thank you for the visit!
My racing buddies would change oil 2000 to 3000 miles on high compression or turbo charged, or super rev engines.I change at 6 months or 3000 miles to maximize longevity! My generators and mowers go 100 hours. How many hours does your auto go? 4000 at 40mph with 10% idle time? 100 hours??? Could be? My oil is golden brown, Never black or muddy. A fresh filter and fresh oil is best. I go syn blend or full syn.
Manufacturer oil change interval recommendations are multifaceted. And have very little to do with taking good care of your engine. They are trying to fit their total fleet waste into the government green targets. They only need your engine to get to the end of the warranty. They are targeting a total maintenance cost to entice more sales. Wear metals for a new engine are quite high and an early change is smart. Wear metals seem to increases linearly, so extended oil change intervals will definitely have accumulated wear metals. The oil itself may well still have viable components, but will be contaminated. Change your oil.
... thank you for stopping by, and I agree 100%. However, if you read some of the comments, you will realize how indoctrinated and ignorant this world has become. While it is easy to identify those that have never gapped a main bearing or possess any engineering background, it is truly remarkable how things that make absolutely no common sense as said by the mainstream media, for example, and or printed by a magazine or newspaper and out of the blue that becomes the new law of physics!
Thank you for your informative video.
I have a question, do oil coolers on trucks, do any good? I ordered the tow package on a Maverick, not because I plan on towing anything larger than a jet ski, but I thought the larger radiator, transmission oil cooler, would help the turbocharged engine during day to day driving. Was this a good decision?
… thank you for stopping by! Lowering oil temperature is highly beneficial to any engine, from a motorcycle to a tractor. That said, if you are not going to tow all the time, I am not 100% sure that the tow package is the best option. However, if you are not into getting dirty, ordering upgrades like this is never wrong.
FYI - This choice is one with which I struggle all the way to the order process. And yes, the 4k package has an engine and transmission cooler, a larger fan, and radiator. However, after going to the parts department and seeing the exploded view of parts, I was left with a feeling that the upgrades were very mundane.
Knowing me, I see myself having to upgrade them as many of my friends with Mustangs and F Series have done. But, what turned me off about the 4K package was the final gear ratio. The 2k towing option has a final gear ratio of 3.63:1 vs. 3.81:1 for the 4K model. This is a turn-off because I love doing weekend excursions anywhere from 100 to 300 miles from my home. In other words, optimum MPG is more important at highway speed. With the 3.81:1 gears, the engine will be spinning at about 2100 RPM @ 75 MPH compared to about 1950 with 3.63:1. I "will" be towing a 17' MAKO skiff, which is right at 2k dry, but I don't foresee any issues with that after the addition of a large transmission and engine oil cooler. I think the fan is adequate, but I will also vent the engine compartment by opening the side gills.
All of this stuff is in somewhat of an R&D process. We have a small group of local Maverick owners, some of which are dealer techs playing around with different things, including oil coolers, trying to figure out what yields the best performance. I look forward to sharing some of that stuff once and "if" proven effective. Thank you for watching!
Every six months, not to exceed 5000 miles, reguardless how low the milage actual figure. Been doing that for 53 years, since my first car.
... I agree with you 100%, once again, thank you for sharing!
It’s all about driving habits. If you drive fast all the time, then everything will wears out faster
…. I hear you, more reason to buy better oil, better breaks, and better shocks! Thank you for stopping by!
The simple answer is to change your oil when it starts getting dark brown and before it gets black. Also, no need for all this flushing hype either, modern oils have detergents to keep your engine clean.
Oil stands up and long time, that's not the issue anymore. There are really only two issues. Moister and carbon levels from blowby. If you don't drive much, moisture will get in your oil and acidify. This is solved by driving for 30 minutes once a month, minimum. Carbon levels in the oil will be from how tight the engine is and how the car is driven. So once a month with a warm engine, pull out the dip stick and wipe with white paper towel or let drip on white sheet of paper. If dirty, time to change your oil. This time will vary on how you have been driving your car.
A blind time or mileage change is unnecessary and ineffective.
Why are you changing clean oil or why did you wait to change black oil? Why not change brown oil?
See what I mean?
Oil stands up these days, so after a year or even 10,000 miles, the oil itself will still test good, but high concentrations of carbon (microscopic sandpaper) will cause damage. A very tight engine driven gently may still have golden oil after 5000 miles so why change it? If you are slamming around, the oil might be dark brown at 3000 miles, so change it.
Why change your oil on some schedule when you can see how it’s doing and change it then?
… thank you for stopping by. That is precisely my point. Read the oil, not the schedule, but if you read the comments on the first oil change on my Maverick, one would think I have gallons of top-secret classified oils in my garage. This started when my truck was called in for a software update, and I asked about the break-in period. The service adviser looked up and said 10K. That did not sound kosher to me, but what do I know? Anyhow, I was getting ready to go on a 1000+ road trip, so I checked all my fluids to find a strong smell of gas and super dark oil with visible floating carbon particles at 2500 miles. I change the oil and put out a video to let people know to pay attention to the oil and not the recommendation or schedule. You really need to read the comments. th-cam.com/video/8HoYQ3yzl-Y/w-d-xo.html The flat earthers and naysayers came out in force! I have several friends who are master techs at dealers, and what they are seeing and reporting about people who follow the manufacturer's schedule is crazy!
I thought I was the king of long-winded comments, but you did pretty good. My theory is, even if an engine is sludged because of poor maintenance, the best course is to just accelerate the oil change interval. In general, the sludge just adheres to the inert parts of the engine and doesn't do anything otherwise. If the engine only requires conventional oil, just use semisynthetic and change it at 2500 miles, or sooner if it turns dark. Eventually, you will clear the sludge out. I'm an advocate of keeping oil change intervals though.
All these debates when you can literally take oil samples at different intervals and see exactly what is happening.
You mean waste money on something that isn't an oil change?
On my 4runner I do every 5k, on my 300zx twin turbo 3k
…thank you for stopping by! That is well within the range and a practice with a well-documented success rate. My beef is with the 10~15k oil change intervals, which are causing engines to fail, and nobody is talking about it as if it did not exist!
@@CubanRedneck I completely agree with you. Can't take anything at face value anymore with almost everything. I like to buy quality items that I love, customized to my tastes and take great care of them
Sound advice especially on the 300ZX TT. I failed to change mine after 5K and resulted in one of the turbos blowing. They were Sport 500 turbos with a JWT (Jim Wolf Technologies) ECU. Suffice to say it was costly and a lesson learned.
Every 5k miles out 6 months. Whichever comes first. Just don’t go throwing in the cheapest oil you can find. Just buy good oil for your budget
... thank you for stopping by! 5K works great on naturally aspirated engines; on turbo or supercharged engines that are driven in heavy traffic, 3~4k is a safer option. And without a doubt, the quality of the oil is everything!
Is there any hour meter you would recommend to install on a modern car ?
… hey, thank you for your visit. Just about every gauge company out there makes an hour meter. Autometer and Borg Warner are the leading brands, but I have had good luck with a brand called Runleader. I have a friend the owns a tow truck company, and I installed about a dozen of these years ago. To the best of my knowledge, they are all working still - www.amazon.com/dp/B07RHMGNHT?tag=vert0a-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1
If you want a little more functionality, this is what I have on my bike. Harley doesn’t believe in tacks or temp gauges - www.amazon.com/dp/B092CDSQ33?tag=vert0a-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1
$50 oil change will save you $5000
2003 Ford F150, 4.2L...............2013 Subaru Legacy, 2.5L .................................. Change your motor oil ................. Period, unless you just like buying a new car every several years
... great to hear! Thank you for stopping by!
I want to add something here. There is no need for an ordinary driver to ever do an oil analysis. Oil analysis is for people who are using expensive, high-end products and want to justify their choice or for fleet operators who want to know how long they can safely go between oil changes. Everybody else, use whatever the cheapest products you can find and change the oil early. Low-end and no name oil filters are good for 5000 miles, but no more. Regardless of what kind of oil you are using, if your oil change interval is 5000 miles of less, you do not need a special filter.
THANK YOU>
... you are very welcome!
Other good video thanks
... Thank you
8:00 I know from experience in aviation, trucking, construction and agricultural mechanics, hours are the standard used for maintenance intervals across the board. Only in the automotive world is mileage used.
Engineers are to be advised, NOT worshiped as prophets of truth. Everything... and I mean every thing in today's automotive world is engineered for the cheapest possible cost, NOT for longevity. Oil additives are viewed through the lens of cost, NOT what's best for the engine.
Still waiting for the answer, not watch again,
... hello there, I am sorry if I missed your last comment. What answer are you expecting from me?
@@CubanRedneck I guess a one sentence answer to your video title.
… I guess you mean ”The Truth About How Often Do You Need Oil Changes” .. the answer to that is the video. You should change your oil when there are substantial amounts of suspended particles, when the oil has a strong smell of gasoline, or when its viscosity varieties from the specified. The point is that the general OCI pushed onto car manufacturers by the EPA should be taken with a grain of salt. OCI should trigger by driving conditions, NOT mileage. As I mentioned in the video, hours is a better protocol.
3000k or 6 moths!!!
… thank you for stopping by. I agree 100%, but take a look at the owner’s manual of any 2024 vehicle, and they are talking about 10K, 20K, and even 25K miles between oil changes! The funny thing is that the warranties have not been expanded, and no new discovery has been made in engine lubrication, rod, or main bearing!
Follow the manual or oil monitor system- you won’t have an engine problem due to oil
…thank you for stopping by, However, your response gives a lot of evidence that you have the slides clue of what you are talking about!
Flat earthers 😂🤘
... they are everywhere LOL!