Although I did it a little different, this video saved me from thinking that this part was bad. Unfortunately it was something more expensive, but it’s working great now and I didn’t waste money on something that I didn’t need. Thank you so much for the video!
@@PartsDr replaced the sump/sprayer pump/diverter assembly. The diverter shaft seal was leaking down the shaft into the diverter motor and corroded it. Price wise, for those two (sump and diverter), it was not too far off to replacing the assembly and have a new sprayer pump too, so I did that.
You told me what I needed to know at 8:00. My old valve just had two Spade connectors instead of a harness type connection. So I wasn't sure which wire went where onto the new valve. Thanks for this critical info!
This is a really cool video! As a plumber/gasfitter who diagnosed a bad water inlet valve on a friends dishwasher earlier (normally done by an appliance repair technician) i decided to check out some other ways to do it. This video was great. I like the test cord (i do it lots with furnaces and zone valves etc) and I really like the battery pack idea. In my scenario this evening, i checked voltage to the solenoid. It was 123 volts so i knew i was good there (used to checking line voltage when fixing furnaces and boilers etc) then i ohmed out the solenoid and it was in the mega ohm range. I really like this video as it was a safe way to test this valve. Very accurate as well. Great video! Cheers!
Thanks for simplicity... On some videos, I forget what I was researching by the halfway mark. My non-mechanical brain checks out fast when explanations are long and complicated.
Right you are. I removed the fill valve and powered it with 115 V ac. I could barely force air through it. I removed the screen and forced the valve with a pointy tool. Surprisingly it works. I hope to get a new valve monday. Our propane dryer also had a valve that failed to open enough.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video It was extremely helpful for me to be able to rule out the fill valve being the issue I was able to use my jump pack that we have to start vehicles to give me a 12 V source Really appreciate you 👍😎🏁
Tested my valve 120v with a test cord...works fine. Put in unit... valve doesn't open. I had 120 to the leads in the unit...but each lead is 120 to ground...not to each other. Is one of the leads going to the valve supposed to be ground?
@@PartsDr ok....more specifically... when I turn the washer on... both the white and purple wires are hot. One should be neutral...one should be switched hot....no?
@@PartsDr it seems like the vale is energized but has no flow. I apply 120 directly from the wall and the valve opens. Install it in unit and it IS energized.... and no flow
Hi, my inlet valve has a one purple wire and black and red connected together, valve itself had 2 output- one with one minus on it, another with 2 minuses on it , I am totally lost here .please help
Hi Ryan. Outstanding video detailing the "proper" way to thoroughly test an inlet water valve! Thanks for helping me better serve my appliance customers at HD. And yes, I'm subscribing to your program.
Instead of using a separate power cord couldn't I just turn the dishwasher on and test the incoming plug to the inlet valve for the proper voltage ?. If I have 120 volts at the plug and it's not working then the valve's defective.
I’d say an easy way to test them is to measure the rate of water flow - disconnect it from dishwasher and divert flow into bucket. I have found that a new valve allows a 1.3 gallons per minute rate. Most GE washers are timed for a 1 minute opening of valve to fill the basin. This assumes a higher flow coming from the supply hose directly but this won’t change the 1.3 gal/min rate too much as long as the inlet valve is supplied with at least 2-3 gal/min from the hose
@@harryharry3193 - if after a minute or two, the valve does not turn off the check the power to the valve. Solenoid receives power to open valve, and closes when the power goes off. If the valve remains open, when the power is off to the solenoid valve is bad. These are simple things to check.
I have an issue where the dishwasher does the initial fill and then doesn’t add any water between cycles. after this stopping it takes awhile before the valve will release water again. How do ai diagnose this?
Thanks Ryan! Watching your well presented lessons has made me a better appliance specialist at HD where I share what I've leaned with associates and customers alike.
My dish washer fills with water only when my water is shut off, as in I’m out of town for awhile, I come home to lots of clean water in my dish water and some on the floor surrounding dish washer. Any suggestions to check for?
Hi, Happy July 4. Frigidaire dishwasher. Works fine, fills and empties for 3 cycles. In fourth cycle (about 1 Hour into full 2-Hour cycle), it keeps filling and eventually overfills and leaks. What could this be?
@@PartsDr Hi! Well, sadly, I'm not able to "find out" anything, other than to keep ordering and trying changing different parts until it works LOL. So you think it's the control board? I was thinking maybe I should get the inlet valve that you describe in this video. But you think it's more likely the control board instead? And thanks for your Time.
@@jackwilliams5474 To narrow down the issue you would need to test to see if the dishwasher is sending power to the water valve when it overfills. If the dishwasher is sending power to the valve when it overfills it is most likely a control board problem. If it isn't sending power to the water valve when it overfills then it is most likely a bad water inlet valve.
@@PartsDr Wow, that's awesome thanks! Sadly, I don't have any way of testing if it's sending power, nor would I really Know how to do that anyway (I'm pathetically unhandy LOL). So what I think I'll do is change the inlet valve, and if that doesnt work, order and change the control board. It should definitely be 1 of those 2 things, right? And thanks again!
My dishwasher leaks from higher up when I turn it on and have bottom covers removed.. Any idea on what part that would be? Solenoid looks fine doesn’t leak
I also installed a floodstop unit with sensor under my DW - that way if something leaks, the Floodstop will shut off water to the DW - I also have this on my fridge. Also, these units test the water shut off valve monthly, turning it on and off to exercise it - a great time to install something like this is when doing a repair like this to the dw -
Good question! Most dishwashers use a time based fill. This means the dishwasher only fills for a pre-set amount of time and the dishwasher does not know if it fills with enough water during this time. The float at the bottom of the dishwasher is usuaully just a saftey to stop the dishwasher from filling up with too much water and overflowing. Some newer dishwashers from Bosch and Samsung (and some other brands) use a flow meter or sensor to measure the amount of water filling into the dishwasher.
Parts Dr thank you so much I really appreciate it. This was the missing piece of in information that I was looking for. You have saved me a ton of money and I'm grateful thank you!!
@@PartsDr yes I agree it is timed based. For GE profile it is 1 minute. That gives me a 1.3 gallon fill. That fill does not trigger the float cut off however. I wonder if GE really designed the float to not be triggered during typical operation of the machine. Meaning it is more of a safety feature. Thanks for posting
we checked the valve as per your vedio reinstalled it but still not operating we checked the power supply it was correct but as we reconnected the power dropped and the valve does not open
Not in most cases. If the noise is constant then it is usually a bad pump motor or some thing stuck in the pump. If the noise gets louder and quieter over and over then it could be a water inlet valve causing the dishwasher to not fill with enough water. When the dishwasher doesn't fill with enough water the circulation pump can start to surge and it will make an louder and quieter noise from the pump.
Great video! So I tested this on my GE and the valve seams to work fine. The issue that I'm having is that when I start a wash cycle it does its drain then pause, but does not start the wash. It just heats up and if you leave it for a while it gets everything inside extremely hot. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks.
your video is excellent. I just installed a brand new g.e. the inlet valve is hammering away, causing water to splash in the cup and leak. I tested the signal and it shows constant voltage. my appliance supplier provided me a free replacement for me to install. the new one did the same thing. now, wtf? I gated the shutoff under the sink , probably open 25%, and it solved my problem. have you ever seen this? what are the chances of 2 bad valves in a row? the amount of restriction on the hot water feed now effects the brand new faucet on the sink. I'm perplexed. my customer is pretty pissed off to, but understanding of how weird this is. the ge people India don't know what is going on and my street pressure is spot on at 60 to 80
Yes, it could potentially cause a problem if it was pushed in far enough. Also, if there are any breaks in the screen you will want to replace the valve.
We don't know of any way to pull the screen towards the front. The screens are usually fixed in place at the factory and they are not designed to be moved at all. The only test we can recommend is the test we show in the video.
Hi there, thank you for your well presented video. I have a Bosch series 6 SMS50m22Au and have discovered I only have 55Vac to the inlet valve. I am not getting any data on the screen other than the Rinse aid and check water light. Could there be a problem with the PCB. If you are able to offer some guidance that would be greatly appreciated.
I'm sorry, we do not have service information on your model. If the water valve isn't receiving the correct voltage, you would want to check the control board that sends power to the water valve.
Question: I bought a new valve and applied AC power. But, it doesn't open the valve fully. I tried to push air through the valve using mouth, but very little air comming out. Can anyone help?
In my case the solenoid was h Good and valve was working properly but it had a slow/leak drip right at the plastic glue joint/seam, that eventually tripped the water overflow sensor in drip pan saving water damage to the floor area. The valve is made of plastic and I assume it had a small crack at 90degree angle and after the leak happened after 2years of use. This Resulted in the 'normal' light blinking rapidly on a display panel of the dishwasher. After systematically replacing the partsy dishwasher works again!
Good video, but there's an easier way to test the inlet valve without building a custom power supply (and it tests everything). Caveat: I'm just a homeowner but this worked for me. Turn the dishwasher on its side or front and remove the inlet valve from its mount. Leave the water supply hose connected and disconnect the valve outlet hose (from the valve into the dishwasher). With the dishwasher off, you'll see immediately if the valve is leaking. Place the valve so that the outlet nozzle squirts into a bucket or bowl. Restore power to the dishwasher and turn the dishwasher on (in a cleaning cycle) - almost immediately the valve should open and let water flow into the bucket; if it does then everything up to this point is working (the dishwasher control board, water supply and valve). Now just cancel the cycle (or turn off the water supply) before the bucket overflows. If no water flows then you can troubleshoot the valve, control board etc.
My water inlet valve opens anytime the door is shut, but it will stop/close when the float switch engages. I'm stumped. The switch and float are fine. And if the inlet valve was stuck in the open position, it would still fill when the switch engages and even if the washer is unplugged, but mine doesn't. Whatever tells it not to open after the cycle ends and drains or not to open before you select a cycle and push start, that's what's not working
Why not just leave the valve wires connected and power/turn it on from the dishwasher controls but with the outlet tube disconnected to catch the water into a bowl to observe the water flow?
Locate the wiring diagram to see what supplies the power to the water valve. On most newer dishwashers the power is supplied by the main control board. Older dishwashers the power is usually controlled by the timer. Also, check the wiring that goes between the two.
Hi,our dishwasher was working fine until we spilt some water down under it. We left it a few days and now it finally starts, it drains but then when it comes time for the water to come on nothing happens, do you think that the inlet is the problem?
It is a great video! My DW makes a grinding noise recently. It still cleans very well and drains very well. Just the noise is the issue. Yesterday, once I heard the noise, I immediately rushed over and opened the door. There were 47 minutes left on the clock. So roughly 50 minutes had passed. Inside DW, it was pretty warm and there was no water on top of the bottom screen. So I am totally at loss. Was the noise made by drain pump when it was to drain, or was it made by the inlet valve when it tried to open and let water in? Any one can help? The noise is not constant. DW only makes this noise two or three times during an 100 minutes wash cycle. Thanks for any help!
It is hard to say what is causing the noise based on your description. What is the model number of your dishwasher and how long does the noise last for when it occurs?
Thanks for the reply. It is a 10-year old Bosch SHX45P05UC/60. A full washing cycle is about 100 minutes. The noise happens about twice and quite short, but it is pretty loud. That is why it bothers us.
TEST YOUR VALVE *** I changed the water inlet valve and still no water. Turns out my feed line was clogged with debris right before the water inlet valve. No idea how that debris got in there.
You are certainly free to do random parts replacement hoping to luckily find the malfunctioning part, but that can get time consuming and expensive. Better to test the parts first to learn which one is bad.
I pulled the dishwasher out and set it on blocks. So I could get under it and take a look. The wires at the back of the water valve looks to be a solenoid valve. I took the hose that carries the water to the dishwasher off. Turned the dishwasher on and got Nothing, no water. I took a screwdriver and tapped the solenoid valve. And I got bath, flooded the whole kitchen. I got it all put back together and put back into the kitchen. Tried to run another load and all it would do is hum. I think it is begging for water. So I am pretty sure this water valve is plugged up. Most likely because they put in a new subdivision up the road. When they did we were out of water for a day or so. When the water did come back on it was muddy took a few days before it became clear. My sink plugged up and had to be replaced. So I am guessing the dishwasher is the same. I was pretty sure this was the problem. I started fooling around with this POS because of a water leak. One thing just lead to another. Now that I can see under the dishwasher I have found No leaks.
Yeah, random parts replacement one part at a time 'till you accidentally hit the malfunctioning part is always cheap and efficient way to repair stuff. Hey, by the time you're done you'll have a whole new diswasher!
Unfortunately you have not learned the secret that music possesses and teaching period for missing too many ADHD cases a little bit of subtle Anonymous background music will help the Mind Wanderer focus on what is being taught. I'm proof this works.
Learn how to replace your dishwasher's water inlet valve here: th-cam.com/video/BU7_rppue7E/w-d-xo.html
Finally someone who actually checked if the valve was moving or working. Thank you.
Glad you found the video helpful!
Although I did it a little different, this video saved me from thinking that this part was bad. Unfortunately it was something more expensive, but it’s working great now and I didn’t waste money on something that I didn’t need. Thank you so much for the video!
Great! What was the cause of your problem?
@@PartsDr replaced the sump/sprayer pump/diverter assembly. The diverter shaft seal was leaking down the shaft into the diverter motor and corroded it. Price wise, for those two (sump and diverter), it was not too far off to replacing the assembly and have a new sprayer pump too, so I did that.
@@ysrpilot Great! Thanks for sharing!
You told me what I needed to know at 8:00. My old valve just had two Spade connectors instead of a harness type connection. So I wasn't sure which wire went where onto the new valve. Thanks for this critical info!
Glad you found the answer!
This is a really cool video! As a plumber/gasfitter who diagnosed a bad water inlet valve on a friends dishwasher earlier (normally done by an appliance repair technician) i decided to check out some other ways to do it. This video was great. I like the test cord (i do it lots with furnaces and zone valves etc) and I really like the battery pack idea. In my scenario this evening, i checked voltage to the solenoid. It was 123 volts so i knew i was good there (used to checking line voltage when fixing furnaces and boilers etc) then i ohmed out the solenoid and it was in the mega ohm range. I really like this video as it was a safe way to test this valve. Very accurate as well. Great video! Cheers!
Nice job diagnosing the problem!
Tremendous. I had both water filling up the dishwasher when not on and then no water when running. Thank you very much, Parts Dr.
Nice! Glad to hear this helped you troubleshoot the problem!
Thanks for simplicity... On some videos, I forget what I was researching by the halfway mark. My non-mechanical brain checks out fast when explanations are long and complicated.
Super clear presentation and explanation by Ryan. Excellent speech.
Thank you!
Right you are. I removed the fill valve and powered it with 115 V ac. I could barely force air through it. I removed the screen and forced the valve with a pointy tool. Surprisingly it works. I hope to get a new valve monday. Our propane dryer also had a valve that failed to open enough.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video
It was extremely helpful for me to be able to rule out the fill valve being the issue
I was able to use my jump pack that we have to start vehicles to give me a 12 V source
Really appreciate you 👍😎🏁
Great!!!
Shouldn't you have installed the male spade terminals on the harness ''going to the valve'' instead ??
No
Tested my valve 120v with a test cord...works fine. Put in unit... valve doesn't open. I had 120 to the leads in the unit...but each lead is 120 to ground...not to each other. Is one of the leads going to the valve supposed to be ground?
Neither of the two power wires should be grounded. If there is a ground on the water valve, it is usually a separate wire.
@@PartsDr ok....more specifically... when I turn the washer on... both the white and purple wires are hot. One should be neutral...one should be switched hot....no?
@@PartsDr it seems like the vale is energized but has no flow. I apply 120 directly from the wall and the valve opens. Install it in unit and it IS energized.... and no flow
@@matthewolson8875 did you ever find the issue
Well done vid. Wouldn't testing voltage at the plug-in for the valve be the first, easy, thing to try?
Yes, that is also a good test.
Great video ! Helped me to not guess if my ohm reading was too high ! I just tested it and now I know it works ! Thank you, Tom.
We are glad you found it helpful :)
Thank you brother
Need more smart guy like you
You're welcome!
I hope you do more videos. Your video is clear, detailed, and logically presented. Thanks!
Thank you for the feedback!
Great video.... clear, precise and just the right level for a noobie DIY repair at home. Keep it up
Great to hear :)
For the cost of replacing the water inlet valve, is it worth going through all of these testing procedures?
It may not be cost-effective for some people to test the water valve, but we do find it helps people troubleshoot and narrow down which part is bad.
Very helpful instructions. Thanks! Not sure you need to film every wire you crimped though!
Hi, my inlet valve has a one purple wire and black and red connected together, valve itself had 2 output- one with one minus on it, another with 2 minuses on it , I am totally lost here .please help
replacing inlet valve on bosch dishwasher 110 volt with 2 spade connectors wires can go back on to either terminal ?
Yes, with AC voltage you can connect the two wires to either terminal.
That was right to the point IF you understood ohms, A/C, D/C.
Hi Ryan. Outstanding video detailing the "proper" way to thoroughly test an inlet water valve! Thanks for helping me better serve my appliance customers at HD. And yes, I'm subscribing to your program.
Hi Al! Thanks for subscribing, we appreciate it!
Don’t forget to check your pipework feed first they can also have filter screens that are scaled up.
Can i use washing machine inlet valve in dishwasher ? Do both works the same way ?
We only recommend to use the exact replacement that is offered by the manufacturer.
Instead of using a separate power cord couldn't I just turn the dishwasher on and test the incoming plug to the inlet valve for the proper voltage ?. If I have 120 volts at the plug and it's not working then the valve's defective.
I’d say an easy way to test them is to measure the rate of water flow - disconnect it from dishwasher and divert flow into bucket. I have found that a new valve allows a 1.3 gallons per minute rate. Most GE washers are timed for a 1 minute opening of valve to fill the basin. This assumes a higher flow coming from the supply hose directly but this won’t change the 1.3 gal/min rate too much as long as the inlet valve is supplied with at least 2-3 gal/min from the hose
so it auto shuts off after 1 min?
so if thats true, if a valve is not turning off, it certainly is the valve?
@@harryharry3193 - yes
@@harryharry3193 - if after a minute or two, the valve does not turn off the check the power to the valve. Solenoid receives power to open valve, and closes when the power goes off. If the valve remains open, when the power is off to the solenoid valve is bad. These are simple things to check.
Thanks. This is the information I was looking for. My dishwasher is not filling the tub but it is allowing water to flow.
I have an issue where the dishwasher does the initial fill and then doesn’t add any water between cycles. after this stopping it takes awhile before the valve will release water again. How do ai diagnose this?
Thanks Ryan! Watching your well presented lessons has made me a better appliance specialist at HD where I share what I've leaned with associates and customers alike.
Awesome! Keep it up!
Damn responds after so many years
@@ADIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII Months dumbass
@@greenidguy9292 you still have not deleted your comment? LMMFAO
My dish washer fills with water only when my water is shut off, as in I’m out of town for awhile, I come home to lots of clean water in my dish water and some on the floor surrounding dish washer. Any suggestions to check for?
I need a kds58 fill valve one coil ¿do you have one?
My valve does not have voltage markings. How do I determine if it's 120 Vac or if it's a 13.5 DC valve?
What is the make and model of the dishwasher?
@@PartsDr Whirlpool GU1200XTLS3. Thank you!
@@curtisnotestine3134 This water inlet valve is 120V AC partsdr.com/part/8531669-water-inlet-valve
Hi, Happy July 4. Frigidaire dishwasher. Works fine, fills and empties for 3 cycles. In fourth cycle (about 1 Hour into full 2-Hour cycle), it keeps filling and eventually overfills and leaks. What could this be?
Possibly a bad control board? Let us know what you find out.
@@PartsDr Hi! Well, sadly, I'm not able to "find out" anything, other than to keep ordering and trying changing different parts until it works LOL. So you think it's the control board? I was thinking maybe I should get the inlet valve that you describe in this video. But you think it's more likely the control board instead? And thanks for your Time.
@@jackwilliams5474 To narrow down the issue you would need to test to see if the dishwasher is sending power to the water valve when it overfills. If the dishwasher is sending power to the valve when it overfills it is most likely a control board problem. If it isn't sending power to the water valve when it overfills then it is most likely a bad water inlet valve.
@@PartsDr Wow, that's awesome thanks! Sadly, I don't have any way of testing if it's sending power, nor would I really Know how to do that anyway (I'm pathetically unhandy LOL). So what I think I'll do is change the inlet valve, and if that doesnt work, order and change the control board. It should definitely be 1 of those 2 things, right? And thanks again!
@@jackwilliams5474 Normally it would be one of those two things. We can't make any promises since there are so many variables and unique situations.
Thank you. Saved $50. LG has 1E error. I can definitely rule out it’s not the inlet value.
Glad you were able to rule out the inlet valve. Let us know what you find as the cause of the 1E error code.
My dishwasher leaks from higher up when I turn it on and have bottom covers removed.. Any idea on what part that would be? Solenoid looks fine doesn’t leak
I also installed a floodstop unit with sensor under my DW - that way if something leaks, the Floodstop will shut off water to the DW - I also have this on my fridge. Also, these units test the water shut off valve monthly, turning it on and off to exercise it - a great time to install something like this is when doing a repair like this to the dw -
Thanks! Question, even if the filler valve produces only a trickle, why wouldn't it still fill the basin till the float trickers?
Good question! Most dishwashers use a time based fill. This means the dishwasher only fills for a pre-set amount of time and the dishwasher does not know if it fills with enough water during this time. The float at the bottom of the dishwasher is usuaully just a saftey to stop the dishwasher from filling up with too much water and overflowing. Some newer dishwashers from Bosch and Samsung (and some other brands) use a flow meter or sensor to measure the amount of water filling into the dishwasher.
Parts Dr thank you so much I really appreciate it. This was the missing piece of in information that I was looking for. You have saved me a ton of money and I'm grateful thank you!!
You're welcome! Glad we could help!
Time-based - aha! That's why my inlet valve only fills the tub part way!
@@PartsDr yes I agree it is timed based. For GE profile it is 1 minute. That gives me a 1.3 gallon fill. That fill does not trigger the float cut off however. I wonder if GE really designed the float to not be triggered during typical operation of the machine. Meaning it is more of a safety feature. Thanks for posting
we checked the valve as per your vedio reinstalled it but still not operating we checked the power supply it was correct but as we reconnected the power dropped and the valve does not open
Sometimes the control board that supplies power to the water inlet valve can fail when it is under load.
will a bad water inlet valve cause a loud when in wash mode?
Not in most cases. If the noise is constant then it is usually a bad pump motor or some thing stuck in the pump. If the noise gets louder and quieter over and over then it could be a water inlet valve causing the dishwasher to not fill with enough water. When the dishwasher doesn't fill with enough water the circulation pump can start to surge and it will make an louder and quieter noise from the pump.
It will when it’s filling with water if that is what you mean by “wash mode”.
If I'm getting no continuity for the inlet valve does that mean it's bad?
No, a continuity test on a water inlet valve is not a valid test.
Great video! So I tested this on my GE and the valve seams to work fine. The issue that I'm having is that when I start a wash cycle it does its drain then pause, but does not start the wash. It just heats up and if you leave it for a while it gets everything inside extremely hot. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks.
It may be a bad circulation pump. Have you checked to see if power is being sent to the circulation pump when it should be washing?
@@PartsDr I will check the pump. Thank you
your video is excellent. I just installed a brand new g.e. the inlet valve is hammering away, causing water to splash in the cup and leak. I tested the signal and it shows constant voltage. my appliance supplier provided me a free replacement for me to install. the new one did the same thing. now, wtf? I gated the shutoff under the sink , probably open 25%, and it solved my problem. have you ever seen this? what are the chances of 2 bad valves in a row? the amount of restriction on the hot water feed now effects the brand new faucet on the sink. I'm perplexed. my customer is pretty pissed off to, but understanding of how weird this is. the ge people India don't know what is going on and my street pressure is spot on at 60 to 80
at 4:32 the piece on the right. The plastic filter, if pushed in to far, can it pose a problem?
Yes, it could potentially cause a problem if it was pushed in far enough. Also, if there are any breaks in the screen you will want to replace the valve.
is it possible to pull the plastic back out towards the front? Or how could someone test to see if its broken?
We don't know of any way to pull the screen towards the front. The screens are usually fixed in place at the factory and they are not designed to be moved at all. The only test we can recommend is the test we show in the video.
Hi there, thank you for your well presented video. I have a Bosch series 6 SMS50m22Au and have discovered I only have 55Vac to the inlet valve. I am not getting any data on the screen other than the Rinse aid and check water light. Could there be a problem with the PCB. If you are able to offer some guidance that would be greatly appreciated.
I'm sorry, we do not have service information on your model. If the water valve isn't receiving the correct voltage, you would want to check the control board that sends power to the water valve.
Question: I bought a new valve and applied AC power. But, it doesn't open the valve fully. I tried to push air through the valve using mouth, but very little air comming out. Can anyone help?
In my case the solenoid was h
Good and valve was working properly but it had a slow/leak drip right at the plastic glue joint/seam, that eventually tripped the water overflow sensor in drip pan
saving water damage to the floor area. The valve is made of plastic and I assume it had a small crack at 90degree angle and after the leak happened after 2years of use. This Resulted in the 'normal' light blinking rapidly on a display panel of the dishwasher. After systematically replacing the partsy dishwasher works again!
Nice job fixing the problem!
Good video, but there's an easier way to test the inlet valve without building a custom power supply (and it tests everything). Caveat: I'm just a homeowner but this worked for me.
Turn the dishwasher on its side or front and remove the inlet valve from its mount. Leave the water supply hose connected and disconnect the valve outlet hose (from the valve into the dishwasher). With the dishwasher off, you'll see immediately if the valve is leaking. Place the valve so that the outlet nozzle squirts into a bucket or bowl. Restore power to the dishwasher and turn the dishwasher on (in a cleaning cycle) - almost immediately the valve should open and let water flow into the bucket; if it does then everything up to this point is working (the dishwasher control board, water supply and valve). Now just cancel the cycle (or turn off the water supply) before the bucket overflows. If no water flows then you can troubleshoot the valve, control board etc.
I love how they even included the standard "instructional music score" for the background!! xD
My water inlet valve opens anytime the door is shut, but it will stop/close when the float switch engages. I'm stumped.
The switch and float are fine. And if the inlet valve was stuck in the open position, it would still fill when the switch engages and even if the washer is unplugged, but mine doesn't.
Whatever tells it not to open after the cycle ends and drains or not to open before you select a cycle and push start, that's what's not working
What is the model number of your dishwasher? partsdr.com/model-number-locator/dishwasher
Can’t you just take a voltage and see if it’s getting hit by the proper amount of volts
You can check for continuity
Great video. Could I just connect some tubing to outlet of valve and turn the dishwasher on? Thanks for posting, please make more videos.
Hi J A, yes you can do that. But, keep in mind that sometimes the dishwasher might not be outputting power to the water valve.
Why not just leave the valve wires connected and power/turn it on from the dishwasher controls but with the outlet tube disconnected to catch the water into a bowl to observe the water flow?
Because something could be causing power to get to the water valve.
If the dishwasher isn't outputting power to the water valve, how do I check that?
Locate the wiring diagram to see what supplies the power to the water valve. On most newer dishwashers the power is supplied by the main control board. Older dishwashers the power is usually controlled by the timer. Also, check the wiring that goes between the two.
Great video!
Thanks!
Hi,our dishwasher was working fine until we spilt some water down under it. We left it a few days and now it finally starts, it drains but then when it comes time for the water to come on nothing happens, do you think that the inlet is the problem?
You never did show how to safely connect a power supply to the valve with the pin-type connectors.
Neil Garber yeah that shit hurts
That’s cause he put female ends on both the valve and the battery pack... 😏
It is a great video! My DW makes a grinding noise recently. It still cleans very well and drains very well. Just the noise is the issue. Yesterday, once I heard the noise, I immediately rushed over and opened the door. There were 47 minutes left on the clock. So roughly 50 minutes had passed. Inside DW, it was pretty warm and there was no water on top of the bottom screen. So I am totally at loss. Was the noise made by drain pump when it was to drain, or was it made by the inlet valve when it tried to open and let water in? Any one can help? The noise is not constant. DW only makes this noise two or three times during an 100 minutes wash cycle. Thanks for any help!
It is hard to say what is causing the noise based on your description. What is the model number of your dishwasher and how long does the noise last for when it occurs?
Thanks for the reply. It is a 10-year old Bosch SHX45P05UC/60. A full washing cycle is about 100 minutes. The noise happens about twice and quite short, but it is pretty loud. That is why it bothers us.
Maybe check to see if it is coming from the detergent/rinse aid dispenser?
You are awesome! Great video! Thank you!!
We are glad you found it helpful! 😎
Great video, really appreciate it ... off to the dishwasher starting with the best tool in my arsenal ... knee pads.
😂 Good luck!
TEST YOUR VALVE
*** I changed the water inlet valve and still no water. Turns out my feed line was clogged with debris right before the water inlet valve. No idea how that debris got in there.
That is odd. Thanks for sharing!
Can't I buy and install a new valve for the price and time of this video? I don't get this
You are certainly free to do random parts replacement hoping to luckily find the malfunctioning part, but that can get time consuming and expensive. Better to test the parts first to learn which one is bad.
Fantastic video! thanks
Glad you liked it!
Good job
Thank you!
Inlet valve price?
Search on site partsdr.com to locate the correct inlet valve for your model dishwasher.
Thank you , Great Video,
We are glad you found it helpful!
Not a short cut test. It was a professional test with safe reinstallation of old or new valve ensured. T Y
You're welcome!
Awesome video
Thx to share your knowledge
Why cut the wires to the inlet valve? Just disconnect the connector from the valve and apply power there.
That should work if you have larger spade terminals on the water valve. Some water valves have very small connections that do not allow that.
Great test tip. Much better example. Thanks...
We are glad you found it helpful :)
thanks this info will help
I changed my water valve,and the flood switch and still have no water in the dishwasher
It could be a bad control board that sends power to the water valve or the wiring between the parts could be bad.
I pulled the dishwasher out and set it on blocks. So I could get under it and take a look. The wires at the back of the water valve looks to be a solenoid valve. I took the hose that carries the water to the dishwasher off. Turned the dishwasher on and got Nothing, no water. I took a screwdriver and tapped the solenoid valve. And I got bath, flooded the whole kitchen. I got it all put back together and put back into the kitchen. Tried to run another load and all it would do is hum. I think it is begging for water. So I am pretty sure this water valve is plugged up. Most likely because they put in a new subdivision up the road. When they did we were out of water for a day or so. When the water did come back on it was muddy took a few days before it became clear. My sink plugged up and had to be replaced. So I am guessing the dishwasher is the same. I was pretty sure this was the problem. I started fooling around with this POS because of a water leak. One thing just lead to another. Now that I can see under the dishwasher I have found No leaks.
It sounds like the water inlet valve is bad and should be replaced.
good
Thanks!
bit slow but interesting however if using 240v this could be a killer
MAGNIFICENT
वेरी नाइस सर जी
A lot easier to by a new inlet valve
Yeah I'm going the $20 "let's try it" route which is not best practice...we'll see
Yeah, random parts replacement one part at a time 'till you accidentally hit the malfunctioning part is always cheap and efficient way to repair stuff. Hey, by the time you're done you'll have a whole new diswasher!
get out your multimeter and stop being lazy!! lol!!
Yeah, $50 for a new inlet valve. I can still get a decent dinner for that.
Thanks but please reduce volume on the annoying music.
We agree! We ditched background music on all of our newer videos.
I don't understand the need for music on all these videos, it's NOT useful
Unfortunately you have not learned the secret that music possesses and teaching period for missing too many ADHD cases a little bit of subtle Anonymous background music will help the Mind Wanderer focus on what is being taught. I'm proof this works.
I have a dishwasher too
Why am I here I was watching midgets in a super shower then this came on
Small things, running water, per version blocker. They know everything.