honestly this has been an extremely informative series. I recently rebuilt my personal bass guitar and wish I had the ability to see these before I did. Now I feel like I can go back to it and hopefully do a better quality job and give it the quality care it needs. Thanks a ton!
that was a Lot of work for a light color :). it's a fabulous looking finish. * for whoever is interested in this process, make time to listen/watch if possible a few automotive body finish specialists. the things they have these days are so much faster than 'the traditional ways' we used a few decades ago, such as manual flat sanding... i saw in person someone use a new sort of padded circular abrasive on a random orbital tool (400 to 2000 grit) and the speed, ease of use and results were superb; less than half an hour of sanding from fresh dry clear coat to ready for polishing for a hood and front bumper of a car. (that used to take me over 2 hrs on a dark color paint). a flat surface like a guitar would be simply a child's play :)
It all comes down to the quality of the random orbital sander. Cheap sanders do a terrible job especially in the hands of a novice. High quality sanders are expensive and beyond the reach of most hobby builders.
Love all your videos, thanks so much. Curious.... Is a ponytail or haircut next? Inquiring minds want to know. Or better yet, the truest of all Rock-n-Roll haircuts: Mullet! Mullet! Mullet!
Thanks for the videos! about how much time buffing is needed to buff to high gloss with buffing machine on each grit of compound, assuming you sanded to 1500 properly
How long do you leave your freshly sprayed guitar bodies until you start the flatting process? And are you still using the Crystalac Brite tone? I used some of the Brite Tone on a recent guitar. But because of the cost of it (I'm in the UK), I only got a small amount and spraying was getting through the lacquer too quickly. So I had to revert to wiping/brushing it on. As it is, after flatting and hand polishing, i'm left with ring marks where the flatting has gone through a layer of lacquer to the next. There's also LOADS of shrink back, although I left it about a week or so from the final coat before starting to flat off. I must have put on about 24 thin coats. Any thoughts at all? DEEPLY envious of your flawless finish by the way. I MUST get a polishing machine!!!
You should let it cure for 3-4 weeks. I have switched to water-based 2k polyurethane. A buffing machine is the best way to get rid of witness lines between layers.
Chris, I will be building a PRS style guitar kit in the near future, and coloring it using dye. I have watched several of your videos showing the application of Solarez grain filler, and their gloss resin. That looks like the technique I would like to do. I would like your input on how best to apply a headstock logo onto the guitar. Should I apply the logo between the grain filler, and the gloss resin, or should it be applied after the first coat of grain filler, and followed by additional coats. Are there any special preparation steps (ie: sanding, etc) I need to do to insure the waterslide logo doesn't get bubbles underneath.
Hello and thanks for your valuable videos, do you know where I can buy those polishing wheels? I am from Chile so any link to Amazon or Ebay could be very useful for me. Thanks in advance. Ricardo.
Respect to this man, who doesnt turn every word into dollar! Good principles. Good karma.
Fantastic thank you
honestly this has been an extremely informative series. I recently rebuilt my personal bass guitar and wish I had the ability to see these before I did. Now I feel like I can go back to it and hopefully do a better quality job and give it the quality care it needs. Thanks a ton!
that was a Lot of work for a light color :). it's a fabulous looking finish.
* for whoever is interested in this process, make time to listen/watch if possible a few automotive body finish specialists.
the things they have these days are so much faster than 'the traditional ways' we used a few decades ago, such as manual flat sanding... i saw in person someone use a new sort of padded circular abrasive on a random orbital tool (400 to 2000 grit) and the speed, ease of use and results were superb; less than half an hour of sanding from fresh dry clear coat to ready for polishing for a hood and front bumper of a car. (that used to take me over 2 hrs on a dark color paint).
a flat surface like a guitar would be simply a child's play :)
It all comes down to the quality of the random orbital sander. Cheap sanders do a terrible job especially in the hands of a novice. High quality sanders are expensive and beyond the reach of most hobby builders.
100% right
My dad is finishing a table, so I shared it with him! keep them coming Chris, I look forward to your next video
Great tutorials. I'm just learning how to maintain and build guitars and I love the details and the pace of your videos - Thanks man.
Glad you like them!
Another great video. Thanks!
Bedankt
Thanks!
Love all your videos, thanks so much. Curious.... Is a ponytail or haircut next? Inquiring minds want to know. Or better yet, the truest of all Rock-n-Roll haircuts: Mullet! Mullet! Mullet!
Nice work!
Thanks for the videos! about how much time buffing is needed to buff to high gloss with buffing machine on each grit of compound, assuming you sanded to 1500 properly
yeah. troooooooooop cool !
How long do you leave your freshly sprayed guitar bodies until you start the flatting process? And are you still using the Crystalac Brite tone? I used some of the Brite Tone on a recent guitar. But because of the cost of it (I'm in the UK), I only got a small amount and spraying was getting through the lacquer too quickly. So I had to revert to wiping/brushing it on. As it is, after flatting and hand polishing, i'm left with ring marks where the flatting has gone through a layer of lacquer to the next. There's also LOADS of shrink back, although I left it about a week or so from the final coat before starting to flat off. I must have put on about 24 thin coats. Any thoughts at all? DEEPLY envious of your flawless finish by the way. I MUST get a polishing machine!!!
You should let it cure for 3-4 weeks. I have switched to water-based 2k polyurethane. A buffing machine is the best way to get rid of witness lines between layers.
@@HighlineGuitars Cheers!
Hey Chris! was wondering where you source your bolt ferrules? I have difficulty finding them online
www.amazon.com/Billet-Aluminum-Bumper-Fender-Washer/dp/B07RB6LFR9
Chris, I will be building a PRS style guitar kit in the near future, and coloring it using dye. I have watched several of your videos showing the application of Solarez grain filler, and their gloss resin. That looks like the technique I would like to do. I would like your input on how best to apply a headstock logo onto the guitar. Should I apply the logo between the grain filler, and the gloss resin, or should it be applied after the first coat of grain filler, and followed by additional coats. Are there any special preparation steps (ie: sanding, etc) I need to do to insure the waterslide logo doesn't get bubbles underneath.
I don’t do decals, so I’m not the guy to ask.
Hello and thanks for your valuable videos, do you know where I can buy those polishing wheels? I am from Chile so any link to Amazon or Ebay could be very useful for me. Thanks in advance. Ricardo.
No links. Sorry. Do a search for Bayland guitar buffing wheels.
@@HighlineGuitars I will do that, no worries, thank you very much. I can`t wait to see that bass finished.
Do you have plans for a Gibson Explorer I didn’t see one in you store?
No. I can't sell Gibson plans legally.
@@HighlineGuitars Thank you for your reply.
Hey Chris, did you add plywood flanges to your buffing wheels? Looks like it tightens up the fabric, how do you like it?
I am always experimenting. So far, my plywood flanges work well to stiffen the soft cotton flannel wheels.