Making Your Own Guitar Buffing Machine
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ย. 2024
- This video explains the basic design of a pedestal buffing machine for polishing a guitar finish to a mirror-like high gloss shine. Plans for this machine can be purchased at www.eguitarplan...
The motor: www.harborfrei...
The shaft: www.mcmaster.c...
The bearings: amzn.to/2DiRCGG
The nuts: amzn.to/2W3P2M0
The pulleys: www.ebay.com/s...
The wheels: www.baylandpro...
nice
Nice job! You might consider a link belt to further cut down on vibration. I put one on my drill press and it's like night and day.
I put a link belt on it about a week after this video was made.
Hi Ken, which horsepower rating motor did you use for your buffer?
Your diy tools episodes are amazing! Thanks
Good we're can I buy the items??
I wish I could provide links, but I can't since the nature of online sourcing can change daily. A good place to start is McMaster-Carr for hardware and Bayland Products, Inc for buffing wheels.
I'm starting to put mine together now. 1" diameter shaft 36" long. 1/2 HP motor. 3 x 14" pads per side. The StewMac ones. I can't believe the end flanges were $32 a PAIR. Everything ordered. I got the 1" x 36" rod at Tractor Supply and the nuts. I was able to roll it on the floor at the store to get a straight one.
How did this work out for you. I'm trying to figure out which way to go as well.
great design!.. all it needs is leveling feet opposite the wheels
Just installed them!
also consider using a longer belt with a on-off idler wheel linkage. would be a way to prevent 'belt-set' from sitting under tension unused for long periods. also make it easier for you to remove the motor
Thanks for sharing all your great knowledge!!!
Cool machine Chris. When I was out at PRS I made note that their buffing machines had copious amounts of padding on them. If you have a machining issue on any of your future projects, let me know. I have a really good relationship with a machinist who can handle interesting projects for reasonable prices. He has access to heat treat, etc and he's extremely particular about quality... He's never let me down.
Great job! Thank you for including the links, this will be extremely helpful when I finally commit to building a buffer.
Where do you buy your buffs?
Link in the description.
Very clever, some excellent idea's.
thanks so much for sharing.
I love the PVC distance pieces. You did a great job! I'm betting you add some attachment to store the other buffing wheels.
If you ever do one more iteration:
Look for a steel tube rather than a shaft milled from the solid. It will be cheaper and it's easier to harden it through and through. The threads can be cut prior. The resistance against bending&torsion is a bit lower, but you're running it at low rpm.
Another option would be two shorter shafts both powered by the same motor. It would require 2 more bearings, but those can be dimensioned much smaller, cause the shafts are shorter and the torque has less lever.
When you're doing your drum sander, get a proper on/off switch and emergency stop button. They cost 5 bucks.
You did the best build with the salvaged parts from your old build! Probably with the lowest cost possible.
Thank you for sharing. Looking forward to your drum sander.
Nice job. 15 years ago I bought the kit from stewmac not the completed unit. I found an old fat shaking machine stand. One of those that have the belt that goes around your butt and shakes it. I just used the stand to mount it on. Works great.
Fat shaking machine!? Gerry, only you!
Have you considered extending the table over the 2 wheels and maybe adding a guard? Nice job 👍🏻
Have you considered a sewing machine rheostat (foot switch) to adjust your rpms?
Also, two soft open or closed cell 1" foam strips on two sides of the table top (perhaps atop a 2x4 for added height) would allow you to lay your work across the top (short term of course) and still have space for polishing compounds, etc. I salvaged two from a packing crate that I use often, clamped across a 2 x 12 on a set of horses.
Nice video... gotta live HFreight!
Once you have your rpm dialed in, it's not something you'll change very often.
Very cool. Thanks for sharing.
That's an ideal design, I may well build that for my workshop, thanks for sharing. I'm in the process of building a chain and sprocket powered conveyor belt drum sander. I'm using 600mm x 75mm x 4mm aluminium tubing for the drum rather than diy wood drum. There is a 20mm solid steel rod going through the tube supported by 50mm solid turned aluminium blocks either end. The rod is supported by 2 cast pillow blocks one end with a pulley driven by 1hp motor. 5 x threaded10mm studs wind the table up and down by chain and sprockets. I wanted 600mm wide as it gives me at least 500mm practical usable width. Looking forward to seeing your drum sander build as you really think things through. I live in the UK, do you or any of your followers know if I can get the Solorez products you use over in England? Thanks
This is pretty cool. I don't know what mods you've made since you posted this video, but a couple I thought would be to counter-sink the motor mounting bolts into the top, even if you had to put some wood below to reinforce since you're losing space to the counter-sunk bolts. The second thought is did you or could you make some quick disconnect system for the motor so you don't have to unscrew the bolts every time you wanted to swap it to your drum sander? I see you have plans for sale. Does it include any locations where some of these things can be bought?
You can mod it anyway you see fit. It’s no longer possible to list sources. They change daily.
Just purchased the plans; looks good! Is the purpose of the wood piece with the door hinges to maintain tension on the belt?
Thanks!
Yes, it controls the belt tension.
@@HighlineGuitars Sorry, I'm confused; this is for the buffing machine, right? How does that piece of wood under the motor, that is held on with door hinges, control the thickness of anything? Again, I'm sorry; I'm not trying to be argumentative, just confused.
Chris,
I purchased your plan for the buffing machine and I have a couple of questions. In the video, it points out that you used 2x8 lumber, not 2x10's. Has this changed between the time you made the video and printing the plans, or is it a misprint in the plan? Same with the shaft, you state you used a 1 1/4" shaft, but the plans say 1". Which should it be?
It looks like a simple enough build, but I want to do it right and purchase the correct materials.
Follow the plan. It’s correct. The machine in the video was my prototype and improvements were made.
I guess changing the belt is a disassembly process?
Yes, you have to slide the shaft out. However, it might be a decade before you'll have to change the belt. Also, you could use a link belt instead.
First let me say nicely
Done . With that said why not just use and automotive buffer ? I do hydrographics and that is what I do on all guitars same as automotive parts . Just more
Economical. When you use the 3 M 3 step polishing system you can’t
Go wrong .
Question I haven't seen...your plans say to buy 2x10's which are 9 ¼" Actual - the plans show the dimensions of these parts at 7". Which would be closer to a 2x8 at and actual of 7 ¼". Are 2x8's sufficient? What should be used? Thanks in advance!
I had to use 2X10 because the 2X8 were less than 7". Use whatever you can get a width of 7" from.
@@HighlineGuitars Thanks for the fast reply!
Hello, can you tell me where you sourced your buffing flange for the 1 inch shaft on your buffing machine? Everything I see is the five8s inch inside diameter. Thanks for your help, Jerry Puckett
baylandproducts.com/products/4-steel-end-flange-fits-all-3-center-airway-buffs
Thanks very much Ken. I’m just about finished with my polishing machine.
I reread the list of components I noted it was a one horsepower motor. So never mind. Thanks anyway I’m sorry I bothered you.
Thanks for this video and for all of the links. I also purchased the plans from the linked website. Would you be able to provide a link or suggestion for the belt (particularly the “OC” size of the belt)?
Use this calculator to determine what size belt you'll need for your application: www.blocklayer.com/pulley-belteng.aspx
Highline Guitars got it thanks! For the plans, do you by any chance sell plans for your updated design shown in the video? The plans I bought look to be a slightly different design (with the pillow blocks mounted to the central leg of the stand rather than under the table top and farther apart as shown in this vid). If no plans are available I’m sure I can emulate your updated design but I figured it couldn’t hurt to ask. Thanks again for all of your informative videos.
@@tkmclaughlin You've got it backward. The video is the old, outdated design. The plans are the revised and updated design.
Highline Guitars ahh! OK! Thanks again!
@@tkmclaughlin Trust me, you don't want that shelf. It gets in the way and prevents unfettered access to the buffing wheels.
Having trouble - Can't locate the correct revised shaft. Your latest links list has a different 1 1/4 shaft, and your revised plans call for a 1" shaft but no links or description is given. I can't locate the right part, do you mind sending a shaft link or giving more details on the shaft on the revised plans? TIA
This is what you should use:
www.metalsdepot.com/cold-finish-steel-products/1045-tgp-steel-shafting?gclid=Cj0KCQiAst2BBhDJARIsAGo2ldXaXA3QcUnwQCKiY5vG6Qjo6dLHQo3opFYcmb7KmEo4QrGb4N_IafYaArdYEALw_wcB
You'll need to have 6" of each end threaded. One side left hand the other right hand.
@@HighlineGuitars Can anyone give me an idea on a fair price for threading? I had a local shop quote me $170 for just the threads.
How do you get it to run SOOO smoothly ?
As long as the shaft is straight and you use a link belt, it'll run pretty smooth.
@@HighlineGuitars Aaahhh... Perhaps it's the Link Belt that will help ! I'll try that, Many Thanks !
Very nice indeed! I would be interested in purchasing the plans from you. I could figure out the dimensions for the wood cuts but if you already have them....... How can I contact you?
I will be offering plans soon for this machine as well as my workbench and drum sander. I'm trying to decide where to sell them.
@@HighlineGuitars Ebay?
Possibly my own Eguitarplans website or maybe Etsy. Or maybe both.
Did you purchase the flanges from the same place you bought the buffer wheels or did you drill out (re-purpose) a set from StewMac?
I bought them many years ago from Grizzly Tools. They don't sell them anymore, but you can get them from Bayland: baylandproducts.com/products/6-inch-steel-end-flange-fits-all-5-center-airway-buffs
@@HighlineGuitars @67$ a pair, yikes!
@@markmelville6670 Yeah, it sucks, doesn't it?
@@HighlineGuitars When you add the cost up you may be better off just buying Stew Macs buffing arbor and using your own motor....
@@markmelville6670 You should only build this machine if you have some of the parts already or can source them cheaper. I got my flanges for $5 each.
What was your all in costs for the parts and motor?
$300ish.
Hey Chris. Every tried to make your on buffing wheels? or maybe at ~$25 it’s not worth the effort?
No. And for the reason you mentioned.
@@HighlineGuitars thanks for your videos. Working on my buffer. th-cam.com/video/YxrfA9kKZmY/w-d-xo.html
Chris, what buffing compounds do you use?? just curious.
Menzerna P175 and P204.
@@HighlineGuitars thank you chris. you're wet sanding to p1000??
Man, those corners worry me!
The only way you'd hit a corner is if you weren't paying attention and when you're buffing, paying attention is a priority.
Hi Chris, Do you have the Grizzly Part number for the Flanges? I looked on their website but can not find them.
Sorry, I don't and I don't think they sell them anymore. Bayland sells them: www.baylandproducts.com/t/buff-wheel-flanges-center-plates
@@HighlineGuitars Thanks, I just ordered them. That jacked up the price a bit LOL
Please advise when the plans are available. Thank You.