I had 3 starters. One didn’t work. One was lazy. Cleaned all internal connections between cap and body. Replaced bushings in the cap and the intermediate. Low and behold. Now I have 3 starters that crank great. Right now I just have the angle as bare sandblasted metal as if you look how the starter gets ground is thru that connection to the block. Turns out my starting issue was 2 fold. Bad ground. And worn out intermediate bushing. The armature was coming in contact with the magnets because of this. You might want to up the gauge of the cables. I am 6V and the cables are a really beefy. I had issues with jumpers too.
Hi Jason That starter draging like it does sounds like low power which could be Amps or Volts. That thing should spin right over. I saw that you added the heavy ground from the starter to the frame. But do you have a good ground from the battery to the frame as well as the engine. My 6 volt CJ has the battery ground cable bolted to the engine. I added ground straps from the engine to the frame, to the body, to the fire wall, even to the radiator core support as the parking lights are grounded to the core support. A 6 Volt system requires perfect connections, Heavy gage cables and ground wires or cables to everything. If you know that you have a full charge on your battery. You can take the battery to a shop that has a load tester if you do not already have one. I do not recall if you have taken the starter to a rebuilder to have the armature tested for leakage. They can put it on a tester called a growler to check it as well as checking the fields. If all else fails you can buy an 8 volt battery ! A lot of old 6 volt vehicles used to switch to an 8 volt battery and they started great. Have you tried spining the starter with 12 volts ? It won't hurt it so long as you don't run it on 12 volts for a long period. I used to run my old VW starters on 12 volts and never had a problem. I just used a newer 12 volt generator. The last dune buggy I built had one million candle power by using air craft landing lights. That requires a rather large battery and a good working Generator or alternator. Keep after that starter problem, you will win !
I did replace the ground to the battery. My son also was telling me about the growler . I’d like to see it work. I’ve been tempted to convert it to 12v . Thankyou very much for taking your time to give very informative comments I really appreciate it.
You also need to watch that Right Rear tire on the go cart. It is starting to look a little sketchy. My m38 is converted to 12V so it spins faster. Yours sounded pretty slow, even for a 6V. Good comments^^^^
Yes that go cart has had a tough couple years. But was a lot of fun. We never did get around to changing that tire I was tempted to convert it to 12 volt. Definitely 12v turns over better
In the attached video voltage drop is tested. In the video he's only testing voltage drop across the battery post connection. You can test your ground circuit, to the starter, by attaching one volt meter lead to the negative battery post. The second lead is attached to a ground on the starter motor. You want to see a drop of less than .2 volts, while the starter is running. th-cam.com/video/xerAp9Yd53Y/w-d-xo.html
I’ll try that,Thankyou I really appreciate your input. I’m surprised how much better it got. It sounds similar to my FC now. But I would like to get it better if it can be
Still a good idea to change out that bushing.... easier now vs later down the road.
Yes definitely, it wasn’t hard to do .Thanks for being here my friend I appreciate it
@@royworks28 anytime! Stay warm up there.
I had 3 starters. One didn’t work. One was lazy. Cleaned all internal connections between cap and body. Replaced bushings in the cap and the intermediate. Low and behold. Now I have 3 starters that crank great. Right now I just have the angle as bare sandblasted metal as if you look how the starter gets ground is thru that connection to the block. Turns out my starting issue was 2 fold. Bad ground. And worn out intermediate bushing. The armature was coming in contact with the magnets because of this. You might want to up the gauge of the cables. I am 6V and the cables are a really beefy. I had issues with jumpers too.
That’s really good you were able to save those starters, I did get the biggest cables I could get . It seems a lot better it sounds just like my Fc.
Hi Jason
That starter draging like it does sounds like low power which could be Amps or Volts.
That thing should spin right over.
I saw that you added the heavy ground from the starter to the frame.
But do you have a good ground from the battery to the frame as well as the engine.
My 6 volt CJ has the battery ground cable bolted to the engine.
I added ground straps from the engine to the frame, to the body, to the fire wall, even to the radiator core support as the parking lights are grounded to the core support.
A 6 Volt system requires perfect connections, Heavy gage cables and ground wires or cables to everything.
If you know that you have a full charge on your battery.
You can take the battery to a shop that has a load tester if you do not already have one.
I do not recall if you have taken the starter to a rebuilder to have the armature tested for leakage.
They can put it on a tester called a growler to check it as well as checking the fields.
If all else fails you can buy an 8 volt battery !
A lot of old 6 volt vehicles used to switch to an 8 volt battery and they started great.
Have you tried spining the starter with 12 volts ?
It won't hurt it so long as you don't run it on 12 volts for a long period.
I used to run my old VW starters on 12 volts and never had a problem.
I just used a newer 12 volt generator.
The last dune buggy I built had one million candle power by using air craft landing lights.
That requires a rather large battery and a good working Generator or alternator.
Keep after that starter problem, you will win !
I did replace the ground to the battery. My son also was telling me about the growler . I’d like to see it work. I’ve been tempted to convert it to 12v . Thankyou very much for taking your time to give very informative comments I really appreciate it.
You also need to watch that Right Rear tire on the go cart. It is starting to look a little sketchy.
My m38 is converted to 12V so it spins faster. Yours sounded pretty slow, even for a 6V. Good comments^^^^
Yes that go cart has had a tough couple years. But was a lot of fun. We never did get around to changing that tire I was tempted to convert it to 12 volt. Definitely 12v turns over better
In the attached video voltage drop is tested. In the video he's only testing voltage drop across the battery post connection.
You can test your ground circuit, to the starter, by attaching one volt meter lead to the negative battery post. The second lead is attached to a ground on the starter motor. You want to see a drop of less than .2 volts, while the starter is running.
th-cam.com/video/xerAp9Yd53Y/w-d-xo.html
I’ll try that,Thankyou I really appreciate your input. I’m surprised how much better it got. It sounds similar to my FC now. But I would like to get it better if it can be
I think they meant that the connection is less dramatic by connecting positive and touching ground second
Yes probably.the amount I did it , I didn’t see any issue,I won’t have to do it again.
Sounds like the timing is too far advanced. -Westley
I’ll check it out
@@royworks28 check that the mechanical advance in the distributor has stuck or broken return springs