This is awesome, how did you know I was rebuilding a 188mm this weekend? I had 3 or 4 videos saved that I was going to refer but now I just need this one. Thanks! A few notes after completing most of rebuild: 1) may want to install the seals in the flanges first before the bearing cone race - so you still have access to backside of seals if need to adjust. This happened to me and press tools won't fit from the back side w/ bearing race installed first. 2) The cone used here to install the flange seals is not from a 188mm diff. It's from a smaller case so unless you have lots of diff parts around you will need to find something else to press them in. 3) Some aftermarket flange seals (corteco) don't have the top have flap sticking out so would be easier to install, although OE parts and most aftermarket do have this flap and probably advised to use this type.
I watched with great interest, was feeling good about setting the pinion preload and then at the end was left wondering ... why the video completely ignored checking or setting the crown wheel main shaft pre-load or clearance or anything to do with checking or setting the tooth engagement and backlash ?? That was the thing I wanted to know most ?
Brilliant video guys, not only this one but all of them 😎 My question, do you guys use oil on the pinion bearing when setting the pinion preload or is the preload done when the bearing are dry?? Thanks.
Hi, brilliant video 👍🏻 best I ever seen. So good. I have E30 325i open differential 3.64:1. Can you advise the pinion torque resistance for my diff please? It’s a 188 and I just about to start rebuild myself using your video as guide. Hopefully I can order bearing and seal kit from your website. Thank you so much for help.
Thank you for the feedback. Nice to hear you got inspired by our video. I would recommend 0.8nm of torque resistance for the pinion without the carrier unit inside.
@@RacingDiffs perfect thank you. The replacement bearing and seal kit you offer on your website. will this work for my diff too? I see it says it’s for an LSD on your website. Mines is open. I just need bearings and seals. No clutch pack. Thanks
I like this video but I have a Question: Do the internal parts of the differential of an E39 fit an E30? I heard that the differential of a z4 std is the same as the e30 but I have one from an E39 and I would like to know if it is the same so I don't have to buy the one for the z4
faz belos trabalhos , mas sempre me pergunto porque mecanicos nao gostam de lavar as peças antes de trabalhar nelas , fica um serviço mais facil e limpo que ficar colocando a mao em graxa e terra velha.
Thanks a lot for the video, it was very educational! When you removed the center component bolts, you said they had to be tapped with a hammer because they were glued, but did you put the glue on the bolts again when you put them back on?
Hi thanks for the guide, I'm about to order both clutch and bearing kit. Just a question, I did not mark which side output shafts came from (Left or Right). Is this a really big deal? Can I measure them to see which side they go?
That's not a problem, as you have only 2 of them. 1st try with thicker on the right side. Check how diff spins. If it spins hard, than swithc sides and that's it. If it feels smooth, than leave it like that.
At the beginning, the diff sounds very noisy on the table. After it's all together with new bearings, how much noise should it make? My diff has a slight whirring similar to the beginning, but it's very slight. I'm wondering if this is normal or if it should be completely silent.
I believe shipping costs to us and back would overcome the value of the work. Do you have some local shop which can do the job? We have various tutorials here on TH-cam. We can also supply you with all parts needed and provide exoert support.
Many thanks for sharing! The best diy 188 bmw diff refresh on TH-cam!
Thank you! Much appreciated 🙏
Amazing video. Helped a lot with the stage one pack.
Thank you 👍🏻
That was an outstanding video ❤ Great job👍🏾
Thank you!
Realy cool manual, many thanks man!
This is awesome, how did you know I was rebuilding a 188mm this weekend? I had 3 or 4 videos saved that I was going to refer but now I just need this one. Thanks! A few notes after completing most of rebuild: 1) may want to install the seals in the flanges first before the bearing cone race - so you still have access to backside of seals if need to adjust. This happened to me and press tools won't fit from the back side w/ bearing race installed first. 2) The cone used here to install the flange seals is not from a 188mm diff. It's from a smaller case so unless you have lots of diff parts around you will need to find something else to press them in. 3) Some aftermarket flange seals (corteco) don't have the top have flap sticking out so would be easier to install, although OE parts and most aftermarket do have this flap and probably advised to use this type.
Glad you like the video! And thank you for your notes. All make sense 👍🏻
Indeed very detailed and professional video, ty
I watched with great interest, was feeling good about setting the pinion preload and then at the end was left wondering ... why the video completely ignored checking or setting the crown wheel main shaft pre-load or clearance or anything to do with checking or setting the tooth engagement and backlash ?? That was the thing I wanted to know most ?
We have other videos on this topic.
th-cam.com/video/O84d0y-vfBw/w-d-xo.html
Suggest you pressure wash the case first. What blasting media are you using? Great video!
Sandblasting is the most effective. Thanks for the support.👍🏻
Brilliant video guys, not only this one but all of them 😎
My question, do you guys use oil on the pinion bearing when setting the pinion preload or is the preload done when the bearing are dry??
Thanks.
Thank you for the compliment. We do our best. Always use oil to lubricate bearings before measuring preload.👍🏻
Hi, brilliant video 👍🏻 best I ever seen. So good. I have E30 325i open differential 3.64:1. Can you advise the pinion torque resistance for my diff please? It’s a 188 and I just about to start rebuild myself using your video as guide. Hopefully I can order bearing and seal kit from your website. Thank you so much for help.
Thank you for the feedback. Nice to hear you got inspired by our video. I would recommend 0.8nm of torque resistance for the pinion without the carrier unit inside.
@@RacingDiffs perfect thank you. The replacement bearing and seal kit you offer on your website. will this work for my diff too? I see it says it’s for an LSD on your website. Mines is open. I just need bearings and seals. No clutch pack. Thanks
Yes, sure. The bearing/seal kit is the same for open diffs and LSDs.👍🏻
Is preload for 168mm case .2-.4Nm? I see that BMW Spec is around 14-16 in lb according to some?
I like this video but I have a Question: Do the internal parts of the differential of an E39 fit an E30? I heard that the differential of a z4 std is the same as the e30 but I have one from an E39 and I would like to know if it is the same so I don't have to buy the one for the z4
faz belos trabalhos , mas sempre me pergunto porque mecanicos nao gostam de lavar as peças antes de trabalhar nelas , fica um serviço mais facil e limpo que ficar colocando a mao em graxa e terra velha.
Thanks a lot for the video, it was very educational! When you removed the center component bolts, you said they had to be tapped with a hammer because they were glued, but did you put the glue on the bolts again when you put them back on?
We didn't as the customer requested to leave them without it because he will change ramp angle soon so he wanted just a brief test.
Hi thanks for the guide, I'm about to order both clutch and bearing kit. Just a question, I did not mark which side output shafts came from (Left or Right).
Is this a really big deal? Can I measure them to see which side they go?
That's not a problem, as you have only 2 of them. 1st try with thicker on the right side. Check how diff spins. If it spins hard, than swithc sides and that's it. If it feels smooth, than leave it like that.
@@RacingDiffs Thanks very much for the advice, really appreciate it
Hallo sir very nice tutorial, do you know what the pinion gear preload for the 215 diff?
Thank you. Pinion preload should be between 0.8 and 1.2 Nm (withoud carrier unit).
thankou germany
This Serbia 🇷🇸
I'm out here looking for the perfect separator/puller for these bearings and all I needed was 2 tyre irons? I've wasted money again.
Simplicity is always the best 👌🏼
At the beginning, the diff sounds very noisy on the table. After it's all together with new bearings, how much noise should it make? My diff has a slight whirring similar to the beginning, but it's very slight. I'm wondering if this is normal or if it should be completely silent.
This is normal until it breaks in. If it spins hard, you possibly tightened input nut too much.
Where do i find such a torque meter to set the resistance of the ingoing shaft? Trying to look for it but cant find one that only goes to 5nm
There were quite few on eBay back than.
What is the pinion gear preload for 168mm diff?
Torque resistant should be 0.4 -0.6 Nm.
@@RacingDiffs are you sure because FAG, KOYO, SKF, TIMKEN specs is more about 2-3nm
Completely sure. You can set 2Nm and try to see what happens 🙂
...are the ring gear bolts reverse thread? Swapping gear ratio and can't find this info...
No they are not. You can check this video about gear swap.
th-cam.com/video/O84d0y-vfBw/w-d-xo.html
Hi, can you please refresh link for seal and bearing kit?
@@lorens41 done.
Is it possible to send you a diff and get it rebuilt by you?
We are based in Serbia. Where are you from?
@@RacingDiffsDenmark
I believe shipping costs to us and back would overcome the value of the work. Do you have some local shop which can do the job? We have various tutorials here on TH-cam. We can also supply you with all parts needed and provide exoert support.
Hey brother what’s the device name that reads a nuts torque, it wasn’t a regular torque wrench it was a small grey device u had
It is a torque wrench which measures 0-6nm.