I highly recommend getting a metal detector wand to look for any metal embedded in the logs before milling, large production lumber mills does it before milling all logs.
I worked with TRIAGLE T CORPERATION for 18 years. We designed & patented the replaceable CARBIDE SPRING TOOTH sawblades. By 1989 appx 90% of the blades we made had been changed to INSERT BLADES & single carbide teeth can be changed out when damaged by shrapnel imbeded in wood. Blade over 4' are VERY TEMPERMENTAL & have to be releveled with hammer, anvils & English wheels to keep their FLEX/BREAK POINT PRESICE..
Fantastic! This video showed me the incredible process of sawmilling. It's fascinating to watch the entire sawmilling process. The video quality is superb. I'm excited for your next video. Keep up the fantastic work!
It’s also good that the splinter didn’t “fly”. Once upon a time my father and I were sawing up a pine tree; in that pine tree there was a splinter from that war. The saw caught a splinter and it flew towards his father. After this incident, I bought a metal detector and before cutting logs I always scan them for the presence of metal.
Fantastic! I was truly fascinated by the sawmilling process shown here. The way you handle those giant logs is impressive. The clarity and detail in this video are top-notch. I'm eagerly waiting for your next video. Keep sharing these amazing videos!
I was about to write the same thing. Everybody in the comment section is an “expert”. You should’a done this or that. My opinion is, that’s a fine old mill! Thanks for posting
Glad everything turned out all right with the metal and using the detector will prove itself worthy. Now to get the oil can and lube everything up. The millers here just use used oil so nothing wasted. Good lumber too! God bless!
Just a little point. When adjustjng the knife alignment at 3:00, you correctly used the straightedge along the blade and the knife's foot, but not along the blade to the knife's tip. A bit of a push and bend as you did is not the best way. Shimming under one side of the foot into best alignment is the better way.
You have right! I just tried to align the blade with a log sled, but it's more accurate when align without the blade, just use the collar. Thanks for watching and commenting! Cheers!
Im sure there is less than a 10% chance of that blade flying off, but I like watching the video more than standing directly in that monsters line of fire.
I have an old circular blade mill that you can take a tool that unlocks each individual tooth so you can replace them, which was great for times like that. Sure hop you're going to build a roof over that "babydoll".
@@AFHProjects у знакомого есть пилорама дисковая. Как-то внутри дерева попался костыль железнодорожный(????). Бешеные обороты. Диск в осколки. Ранил знакомого в руку и ногу. У друга пилорама ленточная. Гвоздь кованый в дереве. Лента рвется, чудом не задев оператора
All that bare metal could benefit from a good soak in chainsaw bar oil. Thin it with paint thinners and spray it on. It gels quite quickly and really keeps the weather out.
Great to see that new blade working well but it's a pity that everything around it is rusty. Your next purchase should be a 5kg can of good grease and a grease gun. Put grease on and in everything that turns and moves especially pump grease into any grease nipples on all bearing housings if they have them. If any housings don't have grease nipples - install them. Dry bearings will become noisy and wear out quickly. Use your grease gun every day before you start the mill. Your nice shiny new blade needs a coat of paste wax to keep it from rusting and to make it cut easier.
Bearing bushes and small angle ball bearings need to be fully greased. But over-greasing rotating ball bearings is a great way to overheat and seize them.
That’s actually our specialty. Most of our clients in the sawmill industry that operate the woodland mill or wood mizer use our green line laser module AGLL2 in a 20mw output power.@@AFHProjects
Can a Gide or stop be fitted to the cut side so when you push the log too it will stop for you and then you will not need to adjust the back end of the log each time, good to see it al working for you, like all old things it will always need to be tinkered with ( worked on)
Thank you! The spot is variable in location. It depends what is the cut with. I line up the cut with the carriage ribs. Just testing, but if real cuting will begin then I need at least 2 more men.
Good to see you working on the mill. I think I hear a noisy bearing and I see the carriage not traveling smoothly like some roller is a bit higher than the rest. Looks like you could use an Indexing Pin to set 2" and one at 4" at the far right so you could just push the log once to the pin and save a lot of time. Be well.
О,и у нас в поселке в леспромхозе была подобная машина. Только диск на ней бы диаметром в 3 метра. А оператор сидел в будке обитой внутри мягким волоком в 5 см. Ее редко пускали, только тогда когда наберётся достаточно бревен диаметром от 1.0м и до 1,8м. Вот она гудела за километр ее было слышно. А раз диск сокочил и уехал за километр от станка. Правда там было немного под горку,но все заборы,с десяток,повалило и один сортир на двое раскроило. Но все живы и целы остались. На этом ее работа и закончилась. Да и так же вот как то на ставной/наборной пилораме дуб пилили и в нем кусок от снаряда(военный лес) и три пилы,новеньких дрык и зубьев как небывало.
G'day AFH, I like your articulated log loader I did some milling for a company once they had a Lemat mill they couldn't get it to run true they had to finish a semi load of roof batons for an order so they hired me and another bloke with 10/30 Lucas mills and we finished the job in two days 👍
I don't know. These types of teeths are replaceable aswell and this type of blades are common here. I haven't seen other types used here in Estonia. Older blades were not replaceable teeths, like my old blade.
Your saw blade has a cup in it itwill spin straight only when it gets to designed speed the rating knife/splitter ans saw guide should only be adjusted to allow for the cupping
Judging buy the look of those saw teeth you have carbide bit soldered onto the saw. Have you considered bit and shank. Even though the kerf is wider you can change damaged teeth in a matter of a few minutes and be cutting again. Carbide requires diamond wheels. Bit and shank can be sharpened with a regular grinder stone.
Man o man , if that saw were to heat up instantly and wander, what disaster it would be hitting that steel carriage. I witnessed a 48 inch blade many years ago catch a feed chain dog, splitting the saw in about 5 pieces and sending them through the roof and to the basement floor of an industrial sawmill. Poor sawyer almost had a heart attack.
That's scary! Yeah, if things go wrong, then it can heat up like so. That's why you should not be on the line of the saw. Most times, you can see that when the blade starts heating, it happens when the log has some tension in it, or you feed the log wrong somehow. I had some cases when log squished the blade, so badly that the tractor stalled. One over 1 m3 log flew back off from saw when catching up the blade.
@@AFHProjects really enjoyed your video. I work up spline edger saws usually a 300 drop sometimes a 300 tight at the eye. I also do a variety of carbide circular saws with various tension specs.
¡Gracias! Todavía es posible. Pero no tenemos una corriente tan fuerte y conducirlos con un motor diesel es relativamente económico. Además, este barco de sierra se puede utilizar como móvil.
The teeth on this blade look like ground for cutting light/ soft metals... I mean, the profile, NOT the angle of attack - -it- THIS ANGLE is just like the one for wood cutting.
@@AFHProjects I know... ;-) I was talking about the PROFILE of these carbide tips ("how they are ground" = the shape, or "cross section" of them). Typically for wood cutting blades the top of a tooth is "slanted" - i.e. "ground at an angle" (but NOT the right angle) - and every alternating tooth has its slant made in opposite direction (left - right -left - right...). Here you have a blade where all tips of its teeth at ground at the RIGHT angle (in respect to the blade), and every alternate one has its corners "cut", i.e. ground at 45° - which is typical for metal cutting blades (but these have the angle of attack set at neutral, i.e. 0° or close to it - this one is very "aggressive", 30° or so I reckon - which is normal for ripping blades). On the second thought, this might have be done on purpose - just in case the blade (its teeth) would hit a piece of metal while cutting (which may happen with trees, and which just happened to you), since this profile of teeth make them somewhat stronger and less prone to cracking in such case. But when I saw this first I thought "kinda strange..." and never thought about that eventuality.
Je vous ferai |remarquer que le couteau diviseur ne monte pas assez haut derrière la lame il doit presque arriver à la même hauteur d une part et d autre part il doit y avoir une protection sur la lame qui tourne
Meni se siinä mielessä vähän huonosti, että tuli sivuvääriä lankkuja. Olisi pitänyt ottaa pelkka keskeltä. Ensin pinta pois, sitten 2" paksu sivusta, sitten 5 tai 6" pelkka.
@@Kaaransaha Tätä tarkoitinkin ,mutta tuo puu oli kuivanen ja halkeillut ettei siitä kunnollista tavaraa olisi tullut. Eli puu meni pilalle muttei ollut onneksi hyvä.
This operation is a marvel of efficiency compared to using a pit saw to cut lumber. And a modern sawmill is a marvel of efficiency compared to this operation.....
sawing for 55 yrs here mm it's always the new blade that finds metal, always
Yeah, Murphys law.
I'm glad you're just sawing for yourself as that mill is not for production!
Yeah, may be small scale production, like for neighbors and locals.
Love watching these old saws. I grew up manufacturing & repairing saws up 144" in South Georgia for almost 35 years
Thanks! Wow, that is a lot of years. You must be know everything about these. These types of sawmills aswell?
This sawmill is not even old. About only 50 yo. 70's or 80's model.
You must have worked at B H Payne. I was just there few years back getting blade hammered,man has that place changed.
Well done great job you can clean and paint I good weather look like it works near perfect
Yeah, it's working fine for me now. Thanks for watching!
Diffrent kind of saw mill for sure.
Common here.
Yea we use to run a carrige head saw Type log dogs used on all smaller trees . blade had strong backs so would toss loose wood
I highly recommend getting a metal detector wand to look for any metal embedded in the logs before milling, large production lumber mills does it before milling all logs.
I will do that. There is no other option. We have this stuff a lott in trees.
L
I worked with TRIAGLE T CORPERATION for 18 years. We designed & patented the replaceable CARBIDE SPRING TOOTH sawblades. By 1989 appx 90% of the blades we made had been changed to INSERT BLADES & single carbide teeth can be changed out when damaged by shrapnel imbeded in wood.
Blade over 4' are VERY TEMPERMENTAL & have to be releveled with hammer, anvils & English wheels to keep their FLEX/BREAK POINT PRESICE..
Nice! Yeah I let them hammered and maintenanced in shop. Thanks for the comment!
Fantastic! This video showed me the incredible process of sawmilling. It's fascinating to watch the entire sawmilling process. The video quality is superb. I'm excited for your next video. Keep up the fantastic work!
Thank you! I appreciate it 🙏 Cheers!
Your the first one i have seen to wear gloves when picking up the blade, good work 👍
Setingan yg bagus menghasilkan kayu yang rata dan lurus
Salam sukses
I’d recommend removing the blade protection AFTER its installed on the shaft. Less chance of injury or damage to the teeth!
Right!
Agreed,as,an observer ,but I can see myself ,so "involved "in things that I would overlook ..
Good video. The quickest way to find metal in a log is to install a new blade.
That's right 😄
Great job! Really enjoyed the sawmill restore series!!! Hope to see more of the mill Thank you!
Glad you like it! Thanks 👍
@@AFHProjects ,
@@СеменШамаев-и1ы😅)
P
L
PlLLLLL0
It’s also good that the splinter didn’t “fly”. Once upon a time my father and I were sawing up a pine tree; in that pine tree there was a splinter from that war. The saw caught a splinter and it flew towards his father. After this incident, I bought a metal detector and before cutting logs I always scan them for the presence of metal.
Yeah, I bought it as well. Thanks for watching!
I look at this video and can't help but wish I could get my hands on that old blade...
Fantastic! I was truly fascinated by the sawmilling process shown here. The way you handle those giant logs is impressive. The clarity and detail in this video are top-notch. I'm eagerly waiting for your next video. Keep sharing these amazing videos!
Thank you!
Don't you just love the know-it-alls who are just dying to critique you, someone, anyone?
I was about to write the same thing. Everybody in the comment section is an “expert”. You should’a done this or that. My opinion is, that’s a fine old mill! Thanks for posting
@eightapeach2861 Thanks for watching and commenting! Cheers!
"I got dat zero clearance though." Thats a bad machine sir! Glad to see you are taking care of it.
Why's that bad?
Good restoration with operationalisation. Great job bro.
Thanks 👍
Glad everything turned out all right with the metal and using the detector will prove itself worthy. Now to get the oil can and lube everything up. The millers here just use used oil so nothing wasted. Good lumber too! God bless!
Thank you!
@@AFHProjects how much did such a saw cost you
I don't know. We had this laying around a years. In this condition I think around 2k or less maybe 🤔
Ll
Just a little point.
When adjustjng the knife alignment at 3:00, you correctly used the straightedge along the blade and the knife's foot, but not along the blade to the knife's tip. A bit of a push and bend as you did is not the best way. Shimming under one side of the foot into best alignment is the better way.
You have right! I just tried to align the blade with a log sled, but it's more accurate when align without the blade, just use the collar. Thanks for watching and commenting! Cheers!
My Dad Made Knifes out of Old Blades, they were top Quality. Really Held a Edge.
Это Н её лезвие, а дисковая пила, , пишут не понятно, что
Im sure there is less than a 10% chance of that blade flying off, but I like watching the video more than standing directly in that monsters line of fire.
Great Job!!
Thank you!
Great job.I am impressed with the machine and how he works. It looks very efficient. Thank you for bringing this video to me.
Thanks for watching!
I really like what I see 😊
I have an old circular blade mill that you can take a tool that unlocks each individual tooth so you can replace them, which was great for times like that. Sure hop you're going to build a roof over that "babydoll".
Yeah, I have never seen these blades here in Estonia. I'm not sure about the roof, but have to cover it somehow if not using it.
Their called inserted tooth saws and the shanks hold the teeth in. Just thought you’d like to know. From a retired Canadian saw filer. 😉
Nice upgrade! It seems to be working perfectly! Enjoy!
May I suggest that you place a laser pointer on your blade guide? If this has been mentioned before please forgive me.
What do you mean? 🤔 Do you mean for checking the blade alignment?
@@AFHProjects yes to site down your logs to find your straight line . I was very impressed with your machine. Did I see that you recycle the saw dust.
Okay, I didn't had the laser so I just used what I had. The sawdust goes to local horse stable. Thanks for watching and commenting! Cheers!
The old machine ,but still good🙏🏼👌👍
This is almost a replica of the setup my dads brother had. I was handling the boards for many summers.
Cool! Thanks for watching and commenting! Cheers!
Worked on a mill like that back in 1973. All the teeth on the blade were removable.
Yeah, these are not common in here. These teeths are changeable as well but in the shop. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Можно самому напоять. Медь, бура и горелка. Делов то!@@AFHProjects
Хороший станок!
Интересно. Каска спасет, если диск разлетится? 🤔
Хоть какой-то шанс
Почему он должен ломаться?
@@AFHProjects у знакомого есть пилорама дисковая. Как-то внутри дерева попался костыль железнодорожный(????). Бешеные обороты. Диск в осколки. Ранил знакомого в руку и ногу.
У друга пилорама ленточная. Гвоздь кованый в дереве. Лента рвется, чудом не задев оператора
Waw good job xtreme👍👍👍
Thanks 👍
O ciekawe😊😊 mam podobne tr skromni😮..😊
¿No debería apretar la tuerca del disco en el mismo sentido del giro?
No, giraría solo mientras se corta. La tuerca debe apretarse contra la dirección de rotación del disco.
Obviously because he knows being a woodworker it doesn't need to be pretty it just needs to work
The purchase of a metal detection wand would be useful in the future my friend. Great video's and skill. Greetings from Canada.
Thanks Chris! Detector will come for sure. We have lots of metal inside the trees here from the war.
@@AFHProjects 1111111
All that bare metal could benefit from a good soak in chainsaw bar oil. Thin it with paint thinners and spray it on. It gels quite quickly and really keeps the weather out.
No deberia alinear con una pletina es mas sertero
Great job of lubricating the machine before operation?
Excellent work, you did a great job of bringing back something beat up, twisted, and rusty into full operations. Look forward to see what's next
Thanks, John for a good word!
Pro tip: leave the tooth protector on the blade when installing incase you knock it. Pull it off after.
We used to spray them down with diesel, it works great as rust prevention, thats just surface rust.
Yeah, that works.
Great to see that new blade working well but it's a pity that everything around it is rusty. Your next purchase should be a 5kg can of good grease and a grease gun. Put grease on and in everything that turns and moves especially pump grease into any grease nipples on all bearing housings if they have them. If any housings don't have grease nipples - install them. Dry bearings will become noisy and wear out quickly. Use your grease gun every day before you start the mill. Your nice shiny new blade needs a coat of paste wax to keep it from rusting and to make it cut easier.
He has lubricated everything in an older video
Bearing bushes and small angle ball bearings need to be fully greased. But over-greasing rotating ball bearings is a great way to overheat and seize them.
Wow mantap bro 👍
Oil,oil please oil. Like Bill Carson asking for water. I can hear the saw crying for it
So wie ich lauf
So geh ich auf.
😎
Finalmente la hoja nueva luego de trabajar para hechar andar el aserradero movil. Detalles te faltan, pero funciona muy bien...
What's missing 🤔?
Hallo brother salam kenal dari saya di Aceh
Это обыкновенная шпалорезка с приводом от ВОМ трактора.В России много таких было ,но с направляющими рельсами и кареткой.
Maquinário bastante eficiente e simples.
Congrats !
Да, и безопасная👍
Great Video. Have you ever used a green line laser module to align the cut ?
No, I haven't
That’s actually our specialty. Most of our clients in the sawmill industry that operate the woodland mill or wood mizer use our green line laser module AGLL2 in a 20mw output power.@@AFHProjects
Good God man it looks like your still living in the 70s
Only machine in this video is the Valmet 872 forwarder made 76', other equipment is mutch newer.
They still exist, the good things. This machine doesn't need to be smart. No internet required.
Yeah 😂 just two wires and the motor.
I see the other review yer you need a hand held metal detector. Very nice saw I love these old saws.
I have that. I also have videos out here where I find metal in logs. Thank you! Cheers!
Can a Gide or stop be fitted to the cut side so when you push the log too it will stop for you and then you will not need to adjust the back end of the log each time, good to see it al working for you, like all old things it will always need to be tinkered with ( worked on)
Thank you! The spot is variable in location. It depends what is the cut with. I line up the cut with the carriage ribs. Just testing, but if real cuting will begin then I need at least 2 more men.
I think the carriage has little raised stops built in you just have to push the log against them
You have heard of grease and oil... Right...?? A well oiled and maintained machine prevents jams and lives.... especially with a blade that big
It is greased. The frame is just rusty.
Que lindo el tañir del acero,cuando puso la sierra...
Any more videos of you running sawmill? GREAT videos restoring your mill👍🏼
Yes, you can find more. I have separate playlist for this sawmill
@@AFHProjects great thank you 🙏🏼
Thank you for visiting! Cheers!
Nice..Amazing
Life and adjustment would be a lot easier with a wire brush to clean the threads and a little grease on the threads and nuts?
But I’ve always done it the hard way.
If you always do what you always did, you'll always get what you always got.
Good video
Thanks!
Das ist eine ganz wunderbare Kreissäge !!!!! Baue der Maschine bitte ein Dach, dann geht es der Säge und dir besser !!!😂😂😂👏👏👏👍👍👍
god job
Good to see you working on the mill. I think I hear a noisy bearing and I see the carriage not traveling smoothly like some roller is a bit higher than the rest. Looks like you could use an Indexing Pin to set 2" and one at 4" at the far right so you could just push the log once to the pin and save a lot of time. Be well.
Thanks! I mill different material. I just line up with the carriage ribs.
I hear and see a bunch of things needing oil or grease!!
@@sotm2 It's greased. Just some rusty polts and nuts.
Машина очень не экономная.
That's why never cut wood without first checking the log with a metal detector
О,и у нас в поселке в леспромхозе была подобная машина. Только диск на ней бы диаметром в 3 метра. А оператор сидел в будке обитой внутри мягким волоком в 5 см. Ее редко пускали, только тогда когда наберётся достаточно бревен диаметром от 1.0м и до 1,8м. Вот она гудела за километр ее было слышно. А раз диск сокочил и уехал за километр от станка. Правда там было немного под горку,но все заборы,с десяток,повалило и один сортир на двое раскроило. Но все живы и целы остались. На этом ее работа и закончилась. Да и так же вот как то на ставной/наборной пилораме дуб пилили и в нем кусок от снаряда(военный лес) и три пилы,новеньких дрык и зубьев как небывало.
hi there nice up grade looks good john
Thanks 👍
Wow amazing, hadir
Metallin paljastimella on hyvä käydä rungot läpi ennen sahausta
G'day AFH, I like your articulated log loader I did some milling for a company once they had a Lemat mill they couldn't get it to run true they had to finish a semi load of roof batons for an order so they hired me and another bloke with 10/30 Lucas mills and we finished the job in two days 👍
Is there a benefit from running this type of sawblade vs. The sawblades with replaceable shanks and teeth?
I don't know. These types of teeths are replaceable aswell and this type of blades are common here. I haven't seen other types used here in Estonia. Older blades were not replaceable teeths, like my old blade.
un bon graissage lui ferai du bien !
Yup, that's right ✅️
Your saw blade has a cup in it itwill spin straight only when it gets to designed speed the rating knife/splitter ans saw guide should only be adjusted to allow for the cupping
Yes, you have right. I know that but I did it still wrong way. :D Thanks for pointing it out. I will do that again without the blade.
Really big machine
Sangat bagus
Judging buy the look of those saw teeth you have carbide bit soldered onto the saw. Have you considered bit and shank. Even though the kerf is wider you can change damaged teeth in a matter of a few minutes and be cutting again. Carbide requires diamond wheels. Bit and shank can be sharpened with a regular grinder stone.
That's right. I have 4 blades, and I take them to shop for maintenance. Thanks for watching! Cheers!
Man o man , if that saw were to heat up instantly and wander, what disaster it would be hitting that steel carriage. I witnessed a 48 inch blade many years ago catch a feed chain dog, splitting the saw in about 5 pieces and sending them through the roof and to the basement floor of an industrial sawmill. Poor sawyer almost had a heart attack.
That's scary! Yeah, if things go wrong, then it can heat up like so. That's why you should not be on the line of the saw. Most times, you can see that when the blade starts heating, it happens when the log has some tension in it, or you feed the log wrong somehow. I had some cases when log squished the blade, so badly that the tractor stalled. One over 1 m3 log flew back off from saw when catching up the blade.
Super die läuft ja wie eine neue
Оочень затратная лесопилка! Я видел, ребята пилили вековой дуб одной бензопилой!
I saw a guys who sawing these old oaks with handsaw.
А Я виде как из болота тащили в ручную бегемота...
Good👍🏻👍🏻💪🏻
Good job 👏👏👏
Amin semoga bermanfaat bagi semuanya semoga berjalan dengan lancar
If you have running sawmill in your countryside then you have a lot of friends. 😁
What amount of tension is applied to the circular saw being used.
I don't know exactly. The blades are maintained by the shop where I bought them.
@@AFHProjects really enjoyed your video. I work up spline edger saws usually a 300 drop sometimes a 300 tight at the eye. I also do a variety of carbide circular saws with various tension specs.
@darkskies6564 Thanks! I really don't know how to measure the tension
Boa noite!!!!!! Muito bom mesmo, o trabalho dá serra. Macaé RJ.
Next step, I believe 23:42
Excelente trabajo!!!! ¿¿ no hay posibilidad de dotarles con un motor eléctrico????? Consume poco y más practico. 👍👍👍👍👍
¡Gracias! Todavía es posible. Pero no tenemos una corriente tan fuerte y conducirlos con un motor diesel es relativamente económico. Además, este barco de sierra se puede utilizar como móvil.
@@AFHProjects excelente respuesta. Muy complacidos y saludos desde las tierra de las cataratas arg .🇦🇷🇦🇷🇦🇷
Почему-то мне кажется, что даже самодельная ленточная будет в разы дешевле и эффективнее
Man I'd spray down all those bolts and nuts with some oil!! That whole lill is in bad need of some oiling and greasing.
Крутая вещь!👍
100 ЛЕТ НАЗАД
ADD OIL
EVEN THE OLD DRAIN OIL FROM THE TRACTORS MIXED WITH A LIL BIT OF DIESEL PAINT IT ON LET IT SOAK IN DON'T B
(SCARED)
I like the metal grid system on your trolley-carriage portion! What rpm is your tractor PTO?
I used 540 rpms.
@@AFHProjectsValmet is very powered power plant.😁👍
The teeth on this blade look like ground for cutting light/ soft metals... I mean, the profile, NOT the angle of attack - -it- THIS ANGLE is just like the one for wood cutting.
Yes, its with carbide tips
@@AFHProjects I know... ;-)
I was talking about the PROFILE of these carbide tips ("how they are ground" = the shape, or "cross section" of them). Typically for wood cutting blades the top of a tooth is "slanted" - i.e. "ground at an angle" (but NOT the right angle) - and every alternating tooth has its slant made in opposite direction (left - right -left - right...). Here you have a blade where all tips of its teeth at ground at the RIGHT angle (in respect to the blade), and every alternate one has its corners "cut", i.e. ground at 45° - which is typical for metal cutting blades (but these have the angle of attack set at neutral, i.e. 0° or close to it - this one is very "aggressive", 30° or so I reckon - which is normal for ripping blades).
On the second thought, this might have be done on purpose - just in case the blade (its teeth) would hit a piece of metal while cutting (which may happen with trees, and which just happened to you), since this profile of teeth make them somewhat stronger and less prone to cracking in such case. But when I saw this first I thought "kinda strange..." and never thought about that eventuality.
Je vous ferai |remarquer que le couteau diviseur ne monte pas assez haut derrière la lame il doit presque arriver à la même hauteur d une part et d autre part il doit y avoir une protection sur la lame qui tourne
Yeah, you're right about the knife, but I have the blade guard. The wooden peace top of the blade. Thanks for watching and commenting!
This video had more twists than the wood on your sawmill
That's a very unusual mill.. doesn't look safe to me ..
I haven't seen a safe mill. ut why are other mills safer than this?
schade, dass der meister die trennscheibe nicht neigen kann - > zum sägen von schönen trapezhölzern
Most dangerous sawmill I've ever seen in operation.
Hi! What is the overall diameter of that saw?
1 meter / 40'
No ei onneks menny hyvä puu pilalle.
kauheesti tulloo pintoja 😂
Meni se siinä mielessä vähän huonosti, että tuli sivuvääriä lankkuja. Olisi pitänyt ottaa pelkka keskeltä. Ensin pinta pois, sitten 2" paksu sivusta, sitten 5 tai 6" pelkka.
@@Kaaransaha Tätä tarkoitinkin ,mutta tuo puu oli kuivanen ja halkeillut ettei siitä kunnollista tavaraa olisi tullut. Eli puu meni pilalle muttei ollut onneksi hyvä.
Mi comentario no tiene sentido, quiero apoyar al Autor del canal ¡Gracias!👍👍👍
Thank you! Cheers!
This operation is a marvel of efficiency compared to using a pit saw to cut lumber.
And a modern sawmill is a marvel of efficiency compared to this operation.....