Great job Bob , I am doing the same things in Belgium , and always look if I can learn something from other people too .. I love the very old tonewheels,especially the BC sounds fantastic .and it's better build then the later organs .. keys indivually to be set by the springtension ;; I understand why it was so bloody expensive , they stopped producing these beauties . how many youngsters are interested to learn, the job we do ?? few , very few ... I have'n't found one yet ! Cheers , Ben
Thanks Bob! I want to put in the Smoothdrawbars kit- my RT-2 has the "ratchet" type. I also have the Hammond percussion and AO-28 to upgrade it, so it'll get the Full Monty before it's over. My keys are NASTY- I wanted to buff them after cleaning, and replace the keycombs, upstop and downstop felts too. This video was exactly what I needed!! You're the man!! DZL
This looks idential to the B3...? On a sidenote, getting into the inner workings is close to a privilege .... these things are unbelieveably well made.
@@samuelmaylor6634 The moveable dustcover can be removed by removing the hinge screws. If any are loose, soak a toothpick in superglue and snap it off at the hole before reinstalling.
@snakehips81 The screws that have lockwashers under the head were the screws that attach the drawbar housing to the base. A rule of thumb is that the lockwaser will go under the nut when there is a screw and nut...when a screw goes into a threaded hole, the lockwasher is obviously under the screw head. Just keep in mind that this assumes that someone has not altered it somewhere along the way. After disassembly you will notice that the lockwashers were under the nut on the other screws.
@bobmann107 My preset keys look like crap. Decals and all. I think in the video you mention rouge or tripoli, but I get them confused with each other. I'll buff all of mine, including the percussion/vibrato tablets. Thanks for your reply back, I'm watching this with great interest. My RT-2 is circa 1953, got it and 4 working H-40 tone cabs for $150. I intend to spec it up to -3 level, add a Fisher K-10 tube reverb, fix the pedal solo unit and add a Model L Solovox to it.
Hi there ! Very informative video. I've questions in two areas : 1. You said to be careful which contact cleaner you use. Which ones are best. Which types to avoid - and why ? 2. Silicone grease for lubrication/improve contacts : I have found White Lithium Grease (another TH-camr video advises this for his Hammond) but then there is Silicone Grease and there is Silicone Grease with PTFE. Others have advised simply Vaseline. Any ones I have mentioned do you think should NOT be used ? Thanks
@bobmann107 - Hi again ! I'm sorry but I found that answer a bit confusing ! However, overall, your video is VERY helpful. I've taken my A100's drawbar assembly out and cleaned the contact mechanism etc. I found that its the LARGE WASHERS WITH WASHERS visible immediately UNDERNEATH that need to be removed FIRST. The other large screws (without visible washers) have nuts on the underside of the drawbar assembly. I couldn't see a way of unattaching the left side of the drawbar assembly.
@dieselheart001 I actually use "Simple Green" as it is not too harsh, but cleans well. In extreme cases, mostly on the preset keys, I will use a buffing wheel and polishing compound.
@bobmann107 Bob, please keep me posted on how your drawbar modification is going. I've got mine disassembled to clean, if nothing else that should make it sound better, without the annoying dead spots.
Hello, Thank you very much, your videos have helped me a lot to get to know this Instrument... I have a Hammond E100, which when I turn on the Organ, the Scanner produces a Very Loud Sound, please, what can I review to Solve it?...
Hi again ! Another question - as I felt one point on your description on removing some screws was difficult to understand. The said some screws have lock-washers underneath and some don't. You said you leave the large screws that have the lock-washers off. Do you mean take off the larger screws that don't have lock washers ? Many thanks ! Just trying to make detailed notes to have at hand when I do this work myself. It might be self evident when I get down to it, but I'm not taking chances !
@dieselheart001 I am working on a CV that has the ratchet DB as well. I am looking at modifying them to smooth the action, because I cannot afford the smooth DB that I have seen lately.
@snakehips81 Hammond has used several different types of plastic over the years. Some contact cleaners will attack some types of plastic. My advice is to try the cleaner on a small part of the housing to see if it softens it. I have had good luck with CRC-QD cleaner. Most all greases will give the same results. I like the pure silicone because it will not dry out over time like Lithium can. I don't know about additives. PTFE (Teflon) is more of a gimmick than a real benefit, IMO.
I love all your videos, and this one has been particularly helpful to me. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with the community. I have ONE screw that will not come out of the drawbar assembly, and the entire assembly does not want to come out, even though every other screw is out. This particular screw just spins and spins. I can see the bottom of the screw spinning when I lift up on the assembly around that screw. I tried needle-nose pliers, which just slip off. I tried multiple screwdrivers. I tried the most powerful magnet I have. I haven't been able to get anything under it. Any ideas? I'm afraid to pry on that assembly too hard and break something.
I finally tried a razor blade and that got under it and lifted it a tiny bit. I then tried to pry it out a little, and finally decided to get my Dremel and cut off the head of that screw. Then I could get the assembly off and see what the problem is down below. I then remembered that the last time I worked with my 20-year-old Dremel, it had been damaged to the point that I needed to either repair it or buy another one. I went to Harbor Freight and got a Dremel-like rotary tool. Came back home, proceeded to try to cut off the head, and I guess the vibration from the rotary tool caused the screw to come right out. The strangest thing. Then, my biggest surprise was that this DID NOT free the drawbar assembly. It's still stuck on there, at that same location (or nearby). I lifted up that entire cover, with the drawbars on it, to inspect the bottom. The vibrato selector is in the way, so I flirted with trying to take that out also. Ugh. It's the smallest things sometimes. As detailed as your video is, I can't think of any reason why I would be having this problem. Not only do I want to really clean the drawbars, but the real point of this exercise is to get the manuals raised, so I can really get under the generator and unstick it.
I have an A102 where the lower presets won't engage. I'm thinking that the bar that the cancel key hits is getting stuck and may need to be cleaned so that it goes back to it's normal position after the key is pressed. I followed the video, to expose the upper keys, but for the life of me can't figure out how to get the upper manual out of the way so that I can access the lower manual. Where are the screws located the have to be removed to move the upper manual. Also, once released, can the manual just be propped up out of the way like you did with the top and drawbar assembly?
I assume that you actually removed the keyboard cover and sprayed all the contacts...I have never heard anyone doing this. What was the reason for doing this? As far as the lower manual, it is exactly the same as the upper, the only thing is that it is harder to access. You will need to separate the manuals; I am not familiar with the L100, but I would imagine that there are bolts that attach the manuals. After separating, you may need to unsolder the wires; you will have to use best judgement.
Nice video. I have a question for you. I'm going to replace all the copasotirs on my a100 because they have lost alot of there values. is it possible to just remove the top layer of keys and get access to the tonewheel generator with out removing both key board levels or will I need to remove both?
+Reuben Andrews I have never recapped the TG on an A100, I have never seen one that needed it. You may be able to tilt the keyboard up enough to access the top of the TG, otherwise you will have to remove the keyboard. I strongly recommend that you do not do a recap. It is not an easy job, and recalibrating is rather tricky. Do a google search before you start anything to learn just how involved this process is. Have you rebuilt the amp first? Have you tried turning the tone control on the amp? Judging from your comment, it sounds like you have not actually measured any of the caps, as they should be disconnected in order to measure them. If yours has the newer red plastic caps, you definitely do not need to recap.
+bobmann107 I have not mesured yet. I will be doing that soon. I have the paper wax capacitors. everything I read so far said that's it's a good idea because of the loss of values. I found some copasotirs on hammondb3andleslietips.com that are mylar remakes. I read that I need to measure the values first then replace. after that I will need to tune each wheel to some values I found online that have mylar caps. bit of a pain but will proably be well with it after I'm done. I have turned up the pre-amp and it sounds ok but it's still missing some beef. I was planning on doing some things to the amp as well. considering everything at this point. over time I'm planning on rebuilding everything that needs it. thanks for the reply.
Just my opinion; do not recap just because you read something. How does it sound to you? If it sounds good, leave it alone. Before you recap the TG as I said before, make sure the amp has been properly rebuilt. Also, make sure the tone control on the amp (there is a pot on the back) is not set to mute. If you still wish to move forward, I recommend that you measure every tone and graph it BEFORE you touch anything. Then measure again after recapping and compare the graphs, You may not have to calibrate the entire TG. Moving the pickups can cause irreparable damage if not done properly. There is also a danger of breaking pickup wires, which are extremely thin.
+bobmann107 yeah I'm going to wait until I get this leslie cabinet hooked up and take a good listen before i do anything. I will definitely do the measuring first.
Sir I have a Hammond B3 and 145 Leslie a Tech came out and changed the tubes and oiled it out but I'm still not getting that crisp B3 sound. The volume is good, draw bars working correctly, percussion works, tremolo, vibrato works. The Tech was new and really wasn't sure. The upper horn on the Leslie spins correctly when you turn off and on the switch but the bottom drum just constantly turns all the time. Any advice would be appreciated.
Two issues. If you have the paper caps on the TG, the sound gets more mellow as the TG caps change in value over time. There is also a tone control on the amp. Adjust to see if it makes a difference. Also a total rebuild of the amp can help brighten it up. The Leslie may be a maladjusted motor. The armature on the motor moves up and down to engage the wheel that powers the drum. It can stick in one position or the other. You can also check to see that both motors are functioning. Simply unplug from the amp and plug each one into a 110v extension cord.
I did not want to take each key off and clean it, so I sprayed with good results, all the notes now sound all the drawbars... unlike the lower register. I'm not good at soldering, so... I spoke to a tech and was told of a piece of metal under each keyboard that slides the contacts back and forth to clean them, the lower one i can see and hold down the keys while doing this...let you know
I have a L100 how do I get at the lower keyboard to clean it. so far I cleaned the top keyboard with radio shack cleaner, it left a residue, type lubricant, it seems to be ok, just cane get at the lower one?
It is not possible to clean without at least taking the cover off. At that point, I suppose spraying with a plastic safe contact cleaner such as CRC QD would get rid of any whiskers and dirt. I cannot say for sure if this would work, as I have never tried it. I figure that if I went thru all the trouble to get to the switch box and take the cover off, why not complete the job and do a thorough cleaning.
The only way to get the deoxit inside those switch contacts is to remove the box and cover. By that time, may as well do it properly and clean it rather than have to repeat a cleaning in the future. Spraying will not remove any zinc whiskers that have formed on the base and cover. Playing hard has absolutely nothing to do with the contacts inside this switch box. If you are talking about the key contacts, unless you totally disassemble the keyboard, there is absolutely no way to spray anything on all 792 contacts (in each manual), as they are inaccessible.
This is probably more than I would want to try to tackle on my A100, hope I never have to. An excellent, clearly explained video.
This video belongs in the Library of Congress, as do all of Bob's videos for that matter. Thanks for the decades of help
Great job Bob , I am doing the same things in Belgium , and always look if I can learn something from other people too .. I love the very old tonewheels,especially the BC sounds fantastic .and it's better build then the later organs .. keys indivually to be set by the springtension ;; I understand why it was so bloody expensive , they stopped producing these beauties . how many youngsters are interested to learn, the job we do ?? few , very few ... I have'n't found one yet ! Cheers , Ben
Thanks Bob! I want to put in the Smoothdrawbars kit- my RT-2 has the "ratchet" type.
I also have the Hammond percussion and AO-28 to upgrade it, so it'll get the Full Monty before it's over. My keys are NASTY- I wanted to buff them after cleaning, and replace the keycombs, upstop and downstop felts too. This video was exactly what I needed!! You're the man!!
DZL
This looks idential to the B3...? On a sidenote, getting into the inner workings is close to a privilege .... these things are unbelieveably well made.
Can the top come off the b3 if so i guess i can remove my c3 cover
@@samuelmaylor6634 The moveable dustcover can be removed by removing the hinge screws. If any are loose, soak a toothpick in superglue and snap it off at the hole before reinstalling.
@snakehips81 The screws that have lockwashers under the head were the screws that attach the drawbar housing to the base.
A rule of thumb is that the lockwaser will go under the nut when there is a screw and nut...when a screw goes into a threaded hole, the lockwasher is obviously under the screw head. Just keep in mind that this assumes that someone has not altered it somewhere along the way.
After disassembly you will notice that the lockwashers were under the nut on the other screws.
Thanks for taking the time to make and post the video.
dante star
fascinante machine ! ...bravo les techniciens .
@bobmann107 My preset keys look like crap. Decals and all. I think in the video you mention rouge or tripoli, but I get them confused with each other. I'll buff all of mine, including the percussion/vibrato tablets. Thanks for your reply back, I'm watching this with great interest. My RT-2 is circa 1953, got it and 4 working H-40 tone cabs for $150. I intend to spec it up to -3 level, add a Fisher K-10 tube reverb,
fix the pedal solo unit and add a Model L Solovox to it.
Hi there ! Very informative video.
I've questions in two areas :
1. You said to be careful which contact cleaner you use.
Which ones are best. Which types to avoid - and why ?
2. Silicone grease for lubrication/improve contacts :
I have found White Lithium Grease (another TH-camr video advises this for his Hammond) but then there is Silicone Grease and there is Silicone Grease with PTFE. Others have advised simply Vaseline.
Any ones I have mentioned do you think should NOT be used ?
Thanks
@bobmann107 - Hi again !
I'm sorry but I found that answer a bit confusing !
However, overall, your video is VERY helpful. I've taken my A100's drawbar assembly out and cleaned the contact mechanism etc.
I found that its the LARGE WASHERS WITH WASHERS visible immediately UNDERNEATH that need to be removed FIRST. The other large screws (without visible washers) have nuts on the underside of the drawbar assembly.
I couldn't see a way of unattaching the left side of the drawbar assembly.
@dieselheart001 I actually use "Simple Green" as it is not too harsh, but cleans well. In extreme cases, mostly on the preset keys, I will use a buffing wheel and polishing compound.
@bobmann107 Bob, please keep me posted on how your drawbar modification is going. I've got mine disassembled to clean, if nothing else that should make it sound
better, without the annoying dead spots.
Hello, Thank you very much, your videos have helped me a lot to get to know this Instrument... I have a Hammond E100, which when I turn on the Organ, the Scanner produces a Very Loud Sound, please, what can I review to Solve it?...
Hi again ! Another question - as I felt one point on your description on removing some screws was difficult to understand. The said some screws have lock-washers underneath and some don't.
You said you leave the large screws that have the lock-washers off.
Do you mean take off the larger screws that don't have lock washers ?
Many thanks ! Just trying to make detailed notes to have at hand when I do this work myself. It might be self evident when I get down to it, but I'm not taking chances !
@dieselheart001 I am working on a CV that has the ratchet DB as well. I am looking at modifying them to smooth the action, because I cannot afford the smooth DB that I have seen lately.
@snakehips81
Hammond has used several different types of plastic over the years. Some contact cleaners will attack some types of plastic. My advice is to try the cleaner on a small part of the housing to see if it softens it. I have had good luck with CRC-QD cleaner.
Most all greases will give the same results. I like the pure silicone because it will not dry out over time like Lithium can. I don't know about additives. PTFE (Teflon) is more of a gimmick than a real benefit, IMO.
I love all your videos, and this one has been particularly helpful to me. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with the community. I have ONE screw that will not come out of the drawbar assembly, and the entire assembly does not want to come out, even though every other screw is out. This particular screw just spins and spins. I can see the bottom of the screw spinning when I lift up on the assembly around that screw. I tried needle-nose pliers, which just slip off. I tried multiple screwdrivers. I tried the most powerful magnet I have. I haven't been able to get anything under it. Any ideas? I'm afraid to pry on that assembly too hard and break something.
I finally tried a razor blade and that got under it and lifted it a tiny bit. I then tried to pry it out a little, and finally decided to get my Dremel and cut off the head of that screw. Then I could get the assembly off and see what the problem is down below.
I then remembered that the last time I worked with my 20-year-old Dremel, it had been damaged to the point that I needed to either repair it or buy another one. I went to Harbor Freight and got a Dremel-like rotary tool. Came back home, proceeded to try to cut off the head, and I guess the vibration from the rotary tool caused the screw to come right out. The strangest thing.
Then, my biggest surprise was that this DID NOT free the drawbar assembly. It's still stuck on there, at that same location (or nearby). I lifted up that entire cover, with the drawbars on it, to inspect the bottom. The vibrato selector is in the way, so I flirted with trying to take that out also. Ugh. It's the smallest things sometimes. As detailed as your video is, I can't think of any reason why I would be having this problem. Not only do I want to really clean the drawbars, but the real point of this exercise is to get the manuals raised, so I can really get under the generator and unstick it.
I have an A102 where the lower presets won't engage. I'm thinking that the bar that the cancel key hits is getting stuck and may need to be cleaned so that it goes back to it's normal position after the key is pressed. I followed the video, to expose the upper keys, but for the life of me can't figure out how to get the upper manual out of the way so that I can access the lower manual. Where are the screws located the have to be removed to move the upper manual. Also, once released, can the manual just be propped up out of the way like you did with the top and drawbar assembly?
I assume that you actually removed the keyboard cover and sprayed all the contacts...I have never heard anyone doing this. What was the reason for doing this?
As far as the lower manual, it is exactly the same as the upper, the only thing is that it is harder to access. You will need to separate the manuals; I am not familiar with the L100, but I would imagine that there are bolts that attach the manuals. After separating, you may need to unsolder the wires; you will have to use best judgement.
Nice video. I have a question for you. I'm going to replace all the copasotirs on my a100 because they have lost alot of there values. is it possible to just remove the top layer of keys and get access to the tonewheel generator with out removing both key board levels or will I need to remove both?
+Reuben Andrews I have never recapped the TG on an A100, I have never seen one that needed it. You may be able to tilt the keyboard up enough to access the top of the TG, otherwise you will have to remove the keyboard.
I strongly recommend that you do not do a recap. It is not an easy job, and recalibrating is rather tricky. Do a google search before you start anything to learn just how involved this process is.
Have you rebuilt the amp first? Have you tried turning the tone control on the amp? Judging from your comment, it sounds like you have not actually measured any of the caps, as they should be disconnected in order to measure them. If yours has the newer red plastic caps, you definitely do not need to recap.
+bobmann107 I have not mesured yet. I will be doing that soon. I have the paper wax capacitors. everything I read so far said that's it's a good idea because of the loss of values. I found some copasotirs on hammondb3andleslietips.com that are mylar remakes. I read that I need to measure the values first then replace. after that I will need to tune each wheel to some values I found online that have mylar caps. bit of a pain but will proably be well with it after I'm done. I have turned up the pre-amp and it sounds ok but it's still missing some beef. I was planning on doing some things to the amp as well. considering everything at this point. over time I'm planning on rebuilding everything that needs it. thanks for the reply.
Just my opinion; do not recap just because you read something. How does it sound to you? If it sounds good, leave it alone.
Before you recap the TG as I said before, make sure the amp has been properly rebuilt. Also, make sure the tone control on the amp (there is a pot on the back) is not set to mute.
If you still wish to move forward, I recommend that you measure every tone and graph it BEFORE you touch anything. Then measure again after recapping and compare the graphs, You may not have to calibrate the entire TG. Moving the pickups can cause irreparable damage if not done properly. There is also a danger of breaking pickup wires, which are extremely thin.
+bobmann107 yeah I'm going to wait until I get this leslie cabinet hooked up and take a good listen before i do anything. I will definitely do the measuring first.
Sir I have a Hammond B3 and 145 Leslie a Tech came out and changed the tubes and oiled it out but I'm still not getting that crisp B3 sound. The volume is good, draw bars working correctly, percussion works, tremolo, vibrato works. The Tech was new and really wasn't sure. The upper horn on the Leslie spins correctly when you turn off and on the switch but the bottom drum just constantly turns all the time. Any advice would be appreciated.
Two issues. If you have the paper caps on the TG, the sound gets more mellow as the TG caps change in value over time. There is also a tone control on the amp. Adjust to see if it makes a difference. Also a total rebuild of the amp can help brighten it up.
The Leslie may be a maladjusted motor. The armature on the motor moves up and down to engage the wheel that powers the drum. It can stick in one position or the other. You can also check to see that both motors are functioning. Simply unplug from the amp and plug each one into a 110v extension cord.
I did not want to take each key off and clean it, so I sprayed with good results, all the notes now sound all the drawbars... unlike the lower register. I'm not good at soldering, so... I spoke to a tech and was told of a piece of metal under each keyboard that slides the contacts back and forth to clean them, the lower one i can see and hold down the keys while doing this...let you know
is it fair to say that little sache at 1:16 is just filled with extra preset screws? i think mine just has them all in place on the rail matrix...
Those are indeed spare screws.
I have a L100 how do I get at the lower keyboard to clean it. so far I cleaned the top keyboard with radio shack cleaner, it left a residue, type lubricant, it seems to be ok, just cane get at the lower one?
What did you use to clean the keys? I thought about "409", or "Mean Green"- thanks!
DZL
how would i just clean the vibrato switches without removing them? i do have deoxit
It is not possible to clean without at least taking the cover off. At that point, I suppose spraying with a plastic safe contact cleaner such as CRC QD would get rid of any whiskers and dirt. I cannot say for sure if this would work, as I have never tried it. I figure that if I went thru all the trouble to get to the switch box and take the cover off, why not complete the job and do a thorough cleaning.
bobmann107 thank you I'll take the cover off
Who would do this unless you have to, I bought some do electric oil, sprayed everything and played real hard
The only way to get the deoxit inside those switch contacts is to remove the box and cover. By that time, may as well do it properly and clean it rather than have to repeat a cleaning in the future. Spraying will not remove any zinc whiskers that have formed on the base and cover.
Playing hard has absolutely nothing to do with the contacts inside this switch box.
If you are talking about the key contacts, unless you totally disassemble the keyboard, there is absolutely no way to spray anything on all 792 contacts (in each manual), as they are inaccessible.