Ok, hear you all. I’m a driver who begins hitting the surfaces of CHICAGO. They ain’t kind whatsoever! HOW STFF IS STIFF. So for then I’m asking stock struts to deal with the AFTERMATH? How’s that going to work with coilovers? It’s hard enough living and driving in My City. Thanks.
Yeah, it's perfect for personal use. It's a Twin Busch scissor lift. Anything in particular you'd curious about? I did a small showcase on it in my last video.
Thank you for responding and the additional information. I will gladly look at the other video. From all channels I follow you are the only DIY/car channel with this amazing lift. Everybody else apparently have their own garage or some expensive full-size 2/4 post lift.
Gorgeous E46! I have to admit, watching the first videos I thought, "Oh no, he isn't!" But then he did. At first I was skeptical but look at it now. Fantastic job and I enjoyed watching all of your videos. Cheers!
The real reason for the subframe problem of the E46 are the welding spots that keep the cage, where the bolt from the subrame is, connected to the car - those three tiny spot welds (right and left side just three little spot welds) break over time. And if they go completely off, the cage is free to swing forth and back. And this results in cracks that appear on the subframe. You have to cut some windows in the sheet metal in the trunk. And then you have to reweld the cage to the sheet metal of the car. Best thing is to flex away the t-shaped sheet metal piece - that will allow direct access to the cage.
Strongly advise you look at the work redish motorsport do on the e46 to see how this should be done properly. Plates alone done sort the issue, multiple spot welds go in areas that you wouldn't expect. Check they're videos on TH-cam
It's not only the cracks, but also the broken spot welds around... also inspect for broken spot welds inside the trunk above the subframe. The problem is common to all e46, not only M3s
Just watched the "done video, where I asked about reinforcment/upgrade of the suspension/brakes. Guess I missed these videos. Nicely done. (So far) guess I'll see for sure in the next video/s.
Hey dude been here and done the plate welding but it isn't enough it will still rip out after a while , do some research on the vince bar or mason brace there the only real solutions.im going to be doing the vince bar shortly before it gets supercharged.
When reinstalling Diff back on to drive shaft - does the diff need to be connected to the drive shaft in the same spot when re-connecting the drive shaft back on? I seen other you tubers mark a line at the connection point of the drive shaft and the differential.
Do the diff seal while its out, adjustable camber arms, new guibo for drive shaft, and trans seal. Mine leaked at 50k. I would basically replace everything I could on the rear while everything is apart.
Cool video !! Im planning on taking my fuel tank out next week to replace it with a fuel cell in the trunk. Would you know if by only taking the driveshaft and exhaust out it wil be possible to take the tank out. The stock tank wont be put back in. And fuel lines are all going to be replaced with an lines. Thanks in advance
Ah the good old rear axle mount problem... Are you sure you just want to weld up the cracks and put little reinforcement plates on the mounting points? BMW is replacing a huge part of the floor pan with a redesigned, reinforced one and puts structure foam inside of the cavities above the mounting points when detecting cracks in that area. ( at least the dealers here in Germany) I don't know if I'd trust some chintzy weld on plates. I'd recommend doing some more research. The new floor pan from BMW was around 300 or 400€ last time I checked, but in addition to that you definitely need a experienced body manufacturer/builder (+ car bench) to do it the proper way.
I have seen exactly what you're talking about. After researching the subframe cracking issue for several months I've come across a few things. First of all, the route taken greatly depends on the state of your subframe. Whether you have no cracks whatsoever or the floor pan is falling out. The state of the subframe on my car isn't terrible. There is cracking but nothing that can't be welded back together. The plates have been used on several cars and successfully stop any further cracking. Strengthening the point of failure is really all that needs to be done in my case. If my subframe was worse, then I would definitely replace the entire floor pan but thankfully I'm not there. Thanks for your comment!
Had mine done by BMW under warranty. Was told about the foam they put in but dont know if they replaced my floor. And yet ... mine is cracked again according to my mechanic. :/
@Kyle Reese You're right about the varying states the subframe can be in. I've seen some really horrifying ones... compared to them, your's isn't that bad from what we can see in the video. Haven't seen your plates in detail yet, but my opinion about it is, they just shift the stress from one point to another and cause cracking elsewhere/at the next weakest point. At least get yourself the foam that BMW uses on non-cracked frames for prevention (I know it's freaking expensive for just "a can of foam") and put it in after finishing welding the cracks and plates. Alright enough lecturing for now I guess, sorry :D Keep up the good work.
@Squashed8Ball They probably just put in the foam... That's not sufficient for already cracked frames... but way cheaper for the Dealer cause by now you're probably out of warranty and have to pay for the massive repair yourself.
How long does it take to change the sf bushes and do you still need to drop that whole frame? My car is 98k now and sometimes on a bend especially if you floor it the back sways like up down left right all at the same time, it's quite unnerving Do you think it's the bushes?
A man and his toys... some things just don't change. There is a moment in the video when your cat is laying down in fron of the garage and he seems to think "Well I can see that being a human takes a lot of effort, look at you tearing this noisy thing apart... so let me just lay down here for a while... Oh that's nice! You know as a cat I like to do things to and I've just thought about my big project. You know what I'm gonna do? I'm gonna lay down over there at your driveway, check me bitch"
don"t think you needed to drain the brake fluid. e brake is on cable driven brake shoes on most e46s, which Im sure you know! great vid keep it up :) :)
cog light. Essentially a trouble code light for the SMG. Unfortunately you will have to look into what the code is saying with a code reader. In the worse case scenario- you can do a SMG pump motor actuator replacement which is around $800 USD vs the entire SMG Pump Unit at $4000 USD... good luck
I honestly think the subframe cracks bcuz bmw drivers drive crazy n shit on top of the subframe already being weak, i hit corners soft , or i at least slow down a lot before turning & i don’t smack on the gas pedal. I have a 2001 330ci
Unfortunately, epoxy is only a viable option if there is no cracking whatsoever. Once the subframe starts to crack, the epoxy option is no longer possible to keep the subframe from cracking further.
@@KyleReese6511 you could try, epoxy the plates on then weld them too for added protection, I've heard of people doing that also a little over kill but I wouldn't trust just welding
Robert Adrian they never issued a recall in which they used actual subframe reinforcement plates. they injected expanding foam into a crevice that they believed to be they cause but it didnt solve anything
solid subframe bushings put even more stress on the mountingpoints.
yep 100% right.
Exactly, creates massive shock loading. Who the heck told him that. Use rubber!!
It’s actually better as there is no slop or play that can develop over time which will cause high stress on the mounting points
Incorrect. They are better, even on street driven cars. They reduce lateral loads, torquing against the subframe receiver.
Ok, hear you all. I’m a driver who begins hitting the surfaces of CHICAGO. They ain’t kind whatsoever! HOW STFF IS STIFF. So for then I’m asking stock struts to deal with the AFTERMATH? How’s that going to work with coilovers? It’s hard enough living and driving in My City. Thanks.
Man just goes to prove how much you have to love your m3 I don’t think I would keep the car.
Haha I love how he used the shop stools and Jack stands to get the exhaust down. Some fine shop ghetto engineering there. I approve
Do you happen to have a link to the jack you use on this video? Thanks
Best lift I have seen so far for personal use. So cool. Could you do a video on that lift ? Thanks.
Yeah, it's perfect for personal use. It's a Twin Busch scissor lift. Anything in particular you'd curious about? I did a small showcase on it in my last video.
Thank you for responding and the additional information. I will gladly look at the other video. From all channels I follow you are the only DIY/car channel with this amazing lift. Everybody else apparently have their own garage or some expensive full-size 2/4 post lift.
Hell yeah! I didn't expect it to lift so fast. I will have one before the end of the year.
P
German Technologie :D
Gorgeous E46! I have to admit, watching the first videos I thought, "Oh no, he isn't!" But then he did. At first I was skeptical but look at it now. Fantastic job and I enjoyed watching all of your videos. Cheers!
Damn nice. Your doing better than most garages at this point.
The real reason for the subframe problem of the E46 are the welding spots that keep the cage, where the bolt from the subrame is, connected to the car - those three tiny spot welds (right and left side just three little spot welds) break over time. And if they go completely off, the cage is free to swing forth and back. And this results in cracks that appear on the subframe. You have to cut some windows in the sheet metal in the trunk. And then you have to reweld the cage to the sheet metal of the car. Best thing is to flex away the t-shaped sheet metal piece - that will allow direct access to the cage.
I am endlessly impressed with your videos. Great job, keep it up.
Strongly advise you look at the work redish motorsport do on the e46 to see how this should be done properly. Plates alone done sort the issue, multiple spot welds go in areas that you wouldn't expect. Check they're videos on TH-cam
Stefan Carle Redish are the daddies at this. You will get lots of pointers from their videos
Mad respect for tackling this, jealous of your lift
1ST imma big fan of u man.. Ur such a talented man.keep it up.
That scissor lift is damn nice!!
Damn you have skills for this good job man i had this done to my C55 AMG the competition to your car lol
Ur so under rated
It's not only the cracks, but also the broken spot welds around... also inspect for broken spot welds inside the trunk above the subframe.
The problem is common to all e46, not only M3s
my e46 had the same problem just now Thanks for the video!
Waiting for a give away for that awesome lift ahaahah its a dream!
Just watched the "done video, where I asked about reinforcment/upgrade of the suspension/brakes. Guess I missed these videos. Nicely done. (So far) guess I'll see for sure in the next video/s.
Sweet lift!
Thank you for sharing knowledge!👍
great diy content! mind sharing the info to your lift? thanks
Hi, could you please tell me where I could get those hydralic lifts. Thanks
That's a lot of work... mines a 2006 m3 convertible... luckily mine us fine
Hey-- just wanted to give you a big "Attaboy" for doing this job.... it ain't an easy one by any means.
Hey dude been here and done the plate welding but it isn't enough it will still rip out after a while , do some research on the vince bar or mason brace there the only real solutions.im going to be doing the vince bar shortly before it gets supercharged.
When reinstalling Diff back on to drive shaft - does the diff need to be connected to the drive shaft in the same spot when re-connecting the drive shaft back on? I seen other you tubers mark a line at the connection point of the drive shaft and the differential.
Do the diff seal while its out, adjustable camber arms, new guibo for drive shaft, and trans seal. Mine leaked at 50k. I would basically replace everything I could on the rear while everything is apart.
Hey man can you explain what use to drain the brake fluid ?
nicely done, man
Thank you!
damn that lift must be so nice, i did this on the ground with jackstands
Yeah, I was almost in the same boat. Lots of respect for doing it on jack stands. I'm really fortunate to get to use the scissor lift.
Good video Kyle.
That's a good looking M3. Do you still have the car?😮
So did BMW improve the subframe design after 2004 ???
Ok serious question my friends e46 rear subframe ripped the trunk out is it worth repairing?
Cool video !! Im planning on taking my fuel tank out next week to replace it with a fuel cell in the trunk. Would you know if by only taking the driveshaft and exhaust out it wil be possible to take the tank out. The stock tank wont be put back in. And fuel lines are all going to be replaced with an lines. Thanks in advance
Ah the good old rear axle mount problem... Are you sure you just want to weld up the cracks and put little reinforcement plates on the mounting points?
BMW is replacing a huge part of the floor pan with a redesigned, reinforced one and puts structure foam inside of the cavities above the mounting points when detecting cracks in that area. ( at least the dealers here in Germany)
I don't know if I'd trust some chintzy weld on plates. I'd recommend doing some more research. The new floor pan from BMW was around 300 or 400€ last time I checked, but in addition to that you definitely need a experienced body manufacturer/builder (+ car bench) to do it the proper way.
I have seen exactly what you're talking about. After researching the subframe cracking issue for several months I've come across a few things. First of all, the route taken greatly depends on the state of your subframe. Whether you have no cracks whatsoever or the floor pan is falling out.
The state of the subframe on my car isn't terrible. There is cracking but nothing that can't be welded back together. The plates have been used on several cars and successfully stop any further cracking. Strengthening the point of failure is really all that needs to be done in my case.
If my subframe was worse, then I would definitely replace the entire floor pan but thankfully I'm not there. Thanks for your comment!
Had mine done by BMW under warranty. Was told about the foam they put in but dont know if they replaced my floor. And yet ... mine is cracked again according to my mechanic. :/
@Kyle Reese You're right about the varying states the subframe can be in. I've seen some really horrifying ones... compared to them, your's isn't that bad from what we can see in the video.
Haven't seen your plates in detail yet, but my opinion about it is, they just shift the stress from one point to another and cause cracking elsewhere/at the next weakest point.
At least get yourself the foam that BMW uses on non-cracked frames for prevention (I know it's freaking expensive for just "a can of foam") and put it in after finishing welding the cracks and plates.
Alright enough lecturing for now I guess, sorry :D Keep up the good work.
@Squashed8Ball They probably just put in the foam... That's not sufficient for already cracked frames... but way cheaper for the Dealer cause by now you're probably out of warranty and have to pay for the massive repair yourself.
Love the channel bro
Great job Kyle! BIG like for this video and what you do ;)
What model is that scissor lift/where did you get it?
Twin Busch, you can order it from their website.
May I ask what kind of lift is that you are using?
I need a lift like that. Can you recommend one? Thank you.
so sad when my like brought total from 420-421 xD
Great vid man!
How long does it take to change the sf bushes and do you still need to drop that whole frame?
My car is 98k now and sometimes on a bend especially if you floor it the back sways like up down left right all at the same time, it's quite unnerving
Do you think it's the bushes?
that'll be rear trailing arm bushes
Hallo Kyle, who made this small red lift?
What lift are you using??
What lift is that? My garage needs one.
A man and his toys... some things just don't change. There is a moment in the video when your cat is laying down in fron of the garage and he seems to think "Well I can see that being a human takes a lot of effort, look at you tearing this noisy thing apart... so let me just lay down here for a while... Oh that's nice! You know as a cat I like to do things to and I've just thought about my big project. You know what I'm gonna do? I'm gonna lay down over there at your driveway, check me bitch"
How much did you send total on parts?
I think the kits are only like $120
I’ve been lucky had 2 M3’s both with over 100k either car do not have sub frame issues or SMG issues
it's just a matter of time. all E46's world-wide get the cracks.
You’ve go a HORSESHOE up SOMEWHERE! Outstanding!
how long would you say this took to do?
Where did u buy that lift
Surely BMW use non solid bushings for a reason?
wow this is a major PITU (the urethra)
Can you put it on bags, for ultimate low!? 😍😍😍
Obviously it's been asked before down here lol, but what lift is that? Good job on getting the subframe out.
It's a Twin Busch Scissor lift.
wow
don"t think you needed to drain the brake fluid. e brake is on cable driven brake shoes on most e46s, which Im sure you know! great vid keep it up :) :)
I drained the brake fluid in order to drop the entire rear end of the car together. Thanks for watching!
What year is your m3?
Hello mate
Do you have any knowledge about the SMG as I have funny looking circle with a ! On my dash light
cog light. Essentially a trouble code light for the SMG. Unfortunately you will have to look into what the code is saying with a code reader. In the worse case scenario- you can do a SMG pump motor actuator replacement which is around $800 USD vs the entire SMG Pump Unit at $4000 USD... good luck
I'm surprised you didn't replace the Giubo while you were in there.
I did, this is only part 1 of the process. I put the new guibo in on part 3 when I put the whole car back together.
Kyle Reese ah ok, cool beans.
I honestly think the subframe cracks bcuz bmw drivers drive crazy n shit on top of the subframe already being weak, i hit corners soft , or i at least slow down a lot before turning & i don’t smack on the gas pedal. I have a 2001 330ci
What car lift do you use??
It's a Twin Busch.
Subbed👍
I do same in my e46 328 Ci. But my Just looking worst 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Someone tell me what the difference between an E-brake and an hand brake because as mutch as know it is the same shit
First
It's recommended to epoxy the plates and not weld, epoxy covers a better surface area and welding only covers the sides of the plates.
Unfortunately, epoxy is only a viable option if there is no cracking whatsoever. Once the subframe starts to crack, the epoxy option is no longer possible to keep the subframe from cracking further.
Weld cracks, Epoxy plates, Foam in cavity
@@KyleReese6511 you could try, epoxy the plates on then weld them too for added protection, I've heard of people doing that also a little over kill but I wouldn't trust just welding
why Is epoxy not viable once the cracks have been addressed? assuming that structural foam has been applied to cavity?
Les sous-titre en français pourrait tu le faire si tu comprend le francais. Mr
where is your local business
Bmw company make this for free on all m3 e46...
Robert Adrian they never issued a recall in which they used actual subframe reinforcement plates. they injected expanding foam into a crevice that they believed to be they cause but it didnt solve anything
Wow that wide body kit is terrible, it really ruins the classic looks of the e46 m3...
What is your welder adjusted to?