Oh My God.... THANK YOU SO MUCH SIR!!!! You are awesome! I have been plagued by this exact intermittent no start problem on my 92 Century 3.3 for so long I was about ready to give up and scrap a car with only 51,000 miles. Your explanation here was very professional and even though the first time I've even seen one of those scopes, I completely understood what was going on the whole time. BRAVO!!! Tomorrow morning I'll be looking for new injectors! Thank you again! No more getting stranded!! :)
What's amazing is I learned a lot because me and you are in the same category if the search is not big it just doesn't help using all the test equipment that you can
What do you call PROFICIENT AND PRODIGY AND INTELLECTUAL AND ACCOMPLISHED add two more SUBSTANTIAL AND KNOWLEDGEABLE The answer is Sir ScannerDanner My teacher Start to finish loved it thank you very much helpful information video. Take care and have a great day PRODIGY Sir ScannerDanner From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
@Qbasic8 Yes, if I remember correctly you have to set your trigger to the RPM probe. Once you do this the "+" sign on the screen turns white. What I don't like about this is it doesn't show the trigger, it only shows the white "+" on the screen where the trigger is occurring. This is b.s. to me and snap-on needs to do something about it. A suggestion is to by a sync probe from AESwave and use it on channel 2 to trigger from instead of the RPM probe.
@ScannerDanner BTW if you are using a plug wire on the RPM trigger that would make sense that the injector current waveform goes away as the ignition and injection are not timed together. Connect your RPM trigger lead to the injector control wire instead. This should work for you, but again you will not see the trigger spike only the white "+" sign.
@Amopower No just the e-book sorry. Here is a little more about it. It is a 400+ page ebook, it is not a PDF download. What you are purchasing is a license code to access the book. It is embedded with hyperlinks to different figures within the book, which make the step by step troubleshooting tips more clear. Printing is allowed but only two pages at a time, so you could make your own paper version if you desired. Although this would be time consuming. Thanks for your interest
@fivefortyeye540i This time base setting is for a scope only, you cannot change time base on a scanner. Remember the Verus is a scope and a scanner, so its easy to mistake which tool I am using sometimes. Different signals require different time base setting. For example, a fuel injector waveform, I may set the time base to 20m.s. screen, and a TPS waveform I may use a 5 second screen. Time base in the amount of time from end to end on the screen you are viewing,
i like it. watched the whole video and almost understood everything. im trying to learn the electronic part of mechanics and so far I find it very interesting. you did a very good job at describing your findings as well as what you did and why. I look forward to seeing and learning more in your other videos. thank you for posting :)
@CHIBA280CRV No, they are all sequential fired now. This means there is a separate driver for each injector and they are fired in firing order sequence. They also re-designed the injectors, so they don't short out anymore. They just stick mechanically now :)
I have a 95 Buick Park Ave , no start no crank. If I jump starter it'll run for a second and shut off but notjing at key. Resistor In key went bad causing security lockout. And kills pulse to injectors when I do jump start , if I snip purple and white rpm wire and t Into the Injectors would that stimulate the pulse I need ?
@Amopower Thats cool, I grew up in South Park and I'm still there. Anyway both of your cars there is still a lot you can do with a scanner. (codes and data) Although data may be limited on the Probe. As far as a scope goes you should look into the Vantage Pro. You could even use an older Vantage (used on ebay) if you didn't want to go crazy with scope tests. You could still do coil current ramping and see fast on/off square wave signals, just not with the same detail.
Great videos. Quick question i just updated from a vantage pro to a veredict but i haven't figure out how to look at scan data and scope at the same time i'm not sure if it's only available on the verus
@ScannerDanner I got the TweecR for the Probe about a year ago, not sure if you are familiar with it. The inventor didnt have the ability to "tweek" any settings as he couldwith otherECU's, so I told him I would be happy with read-only just to see the parameters he could pull. So is your book still available as hard copy? I know it's out there as an e-book but I actually prefer the book format if you have it.
It is the same on the Verus as it is on the Verdict all you do is minimize the page like you would do in any windows program. and put it over the scan data
Is there some sort of internal circuitry inside the injector that is actually shorting out? I was just wondering what could actually be the problem going on inside the injector, causing the high amperage. Thanks Paul
Your vids are great. Fellow Yinzer here, grew up in the South Hills (Bethel Park). I really want to get a scope to pick up these waveforms for O2, MAF, etc...but my cars are old - 94 Probe with EEC-IV, and a 93 Lesabre with OBD-1, so I probably wouldnt need one that does codes (since they probably only do codes on ODB-II anyway). Any recommendations?
Scannerdanner , I don't have a lab scope. My scan tool is just a inovvan ob2 can bus, I can view live data pids etc. I'm curious when u go and change ur base timing whith ur stylist for whatever the reason, what is it that ur doing? What is base timing ?
It would, but only if you have a known good reference. It's possible on these systems that ALL of them are bad, and in this case specifically, you'd probably only have 1 injector with higher resistance, which might lead you to believe that 1 injector is the problem. It's better to look at the loaded circuit almost always instead of relying on a resistance measurement.
Hey, I am using the Vantage Pro. Do you have any info on using the the RPM/Trigger pickup to be used as a trigger event? I can get the RPM to show correctly, but whenever I clamp it (and say have low amp probe on an injector) the waveform goes away when I have it set to trigger on the Aux port (trigger cable). Any ideas?
Hey, Paul. Could you please explain how the shorted injector overloads the driver? I know the short causes an increase in current flow, but from my understanding, if an injector is shorted t to ground( Internally or on the control wire if ground side switched), current finds a path to ground before it reaches the driver. Can you please help us understand how the driver can take a hit from a shorted injector? Your answer would be very valuable to me as your videos are.
Hi Paul I have question for you. Shorted injector has high current flow. I would expect to se higher inductive spike with high current flow. Hope this question make sense. Thank you.
great question. The reason that higher amperage does not provide a higher inductive spike is because the magnetic field overall is much much weaker. Sure the magnetic field around the few strands of copper wire that are conductive will be higher, but what you need to remember is, it is the combination of ALL of the windings that create a large magnetic field. Make sense?
Do you have any videos diagnosing the new GDI injectors, so far I've been getting lucky on odd misfires with replacing them typically on VW's but into a Mini now. And they are pricey.
Hey Dan hopefully you can help. I have a 1990 reatta. I’ve tried literally everything. New crank sensor. New cam sensor which shouldn’t matter only changes injectors from sequential to batch fire. It has spark. It has fuel. And it has injectors working. I’ve even tried unplugging them once at a time to get it to start. I’ve also swapped icm and no difference. It’ll start up after sitting overnight with battery disconnected. And when it starts it runs rough and shakes and pops out intake the tachometer goes crazy it bounces up to 6000 rpm when it’s at idle and bounces up and down all over the tach. After 5 minutes of it starting and stalling running for no more then 3-10 seconds at time it then won’t start at all and just cranks. Until I let it sit again overnight. I’ve swapped ecms as well and no difference. I tried to cut the tan white bypass wire so it would run on the ignition timing without ecm control and it didn’t start still. Doesn’t run with starting fluid either. But again it does have strong spark. I’m just lost. I know it has to do with the rpm signal showing 6000 rpm and fluctuating all over the board. Just don’t know where to go from here besides trying to rewire whole circuit from crank sensor to icm to ecm. Any idea or help would be much appreciated.
Hey Danner! So I know a shorted injector will have a higher amperage draw, but what if you have an injector with LOW amperage draw? I have an 06 Cobalt that has constant misfires at idle, but they are barely noticeable. Mode 6 Data shows hundreds of misfires detected on one cylinder but, a single digits on other cylinders. Only set a misfire code once, but it runs great. Was messing with the scope the other day and noticed extremely low amperage on one injector. Could this be a bad driver?
Great info. What is making the current high enough to shut the car off intermittently? in other words, why doesn't that condition happen all the time when the injectors are bad?
the resistance of the shorted injector(s) changes with heat, so once current flow is high enough, that one single driver that controls all of the injectors will create a no start condition
@@ScannerDanner thanks. I was having trouble coming up with the right way to describe that in my mind. So when the cold engine starts, the shorted injector hasn't built up enough heat to overload the driver with too much current yet. But as the engine runs, the heat rises which increases current to the point of driver overload. The car would then shut off and not restart until cooled down. Is that the right way to describe it?
@@ScannerDanner thanks to God and you.... I'm getting this stuff! I actually sit behind a desk for a living so I don't have a lot of experience with this stuff, but from going through your book multiple times, your premium channel and your TH-cam channel, I thank God for what's sinking into my mind. I feel like I'm getting close! I can watch many of your videos now and predict what tests you're going to do next. Thanks so much for all you do!!! I hope you never retire.
Old video but i will ask a question anyways. Would a 89 vette LT1 share the same injector design??? Parents gave me their old 89 vette and when it would get to operating temp it would stall and not start. Did all my basic checks and found the 3 front injectors on the Right Bank unplugged it would start and run and any of them plugged back in it would die immediately.
+Devon Morder absolutely! Do yourself a favor and change all 8. If you do not have a scope use your ohmmeter and measure each injector. They should be 12.6 ohms each
Hey Scanner Danner, we have a 92 Pontiac Grand Prix. It has good fuel pressure and spark. It just cranks and i saw your other video and i disconnected 1 injector and sprayed brake cleaner and it fired up and ran for about 5 minutes and then shut off. I even plugged in the injector and it was still running. I ohmed 3 injectors the front ones and they read 11.8 ohms The other 3 are under the intake so cant ohm them. The car just cranks and cranks and if i spray it with brake cleaner itll start and run. Would this be shorted injectors?
Thanks so much for the help. It was an injector under the intake plenum. Replaced all 6 and fired up. Now he can drive to school after getting his license.
Sort of curious now... Does the "replace them all" theory apply to the Peak-and-Hold sequential injection Multec I's, or only the Saturated Switch bank/group fire?
ScannerDanner Premium Oldsmobile Quad 4 engines up to 1998 used a peak and hold Multec I in an SFI setup. Your brother recently changed a single injector on one of those engines, and I had a bit to say on the injector he used... From what I understand, the flaw with the Multec I's is due to the coil being exposed to fuel to keep them cool. Bad fuel or aggressive cleaners strips the insulating coating off the winding and shorts it out.
Didn't realize the quad 4 used a peak and hold. If he changed only one injector, I'm okay with that as the quad 4 engine is not known for shorted injectors.
rhkips Would you go to Finish Line and only buy one new shoe? or buy a single sock...some things need to be replaced in sets...couldn't stand dumbasses that just wanted to replace one spark plug when I worked at autozone...I wanted to smack them in the face
Paul, first just want to say thank you for all the great videos! I have a question on when the car doesn't start, the injector shows high amperage, and the driver shuts down to protect the circuit.If the circuit is shut down, how would there still be a high current flow as shown on the scope? I hope I explained my question right.
+Bryan Lamontagne I have 3 or 4 other shorted injector videos. One two part series where I'm drawing on my smartboard will answer your questions. Sorry no link offhand
hm...maybe rpm pid wasn't there simply bcus of clear flood crank...i mean, had it been there the car would ve started which is contradictory to clear flood crank...i mean, if normal crank, maybe the rpm pid is there always(provided that there was reference)...whatever, just thinkin :)
I knew it was the injectors before I even saw the "SHORTED INJECTORS" BULLETPROOF ENGINE...AND EASY AS FUCK TO WORK ON... I hate Honda's and Toyota's... no room under the hood..just a mess of gay plastic covers sensors and shit...these are simple and reliable like an Ak47
keep watching, I gave the alternative resistance measurements either in this video or another shorted injector video I've done. It's not all about the scope as much as it is the process.
![Toyota Camry - Intermittent No Start, Backfiring, Runs Good When it Starts [Part 1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Tro9M12LoQw/mqdefault.jpg)
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Oh My God.... THANK YOU SO MUCH SIR!!!! You are awesome! I have been plagued by this exact intermittent no start problem on my 92 Century 3.3 for so long I was about ready to give up and scrap a car with only 51,000 miles. Your explanation here was very professional and even though the first time I've even seen one of those scopes, I completely understood what was going on the whole time. BRAVO!!! Tomorrow morning I'll be looking for new injectors! Thank you again! No more getting stranded!! :)
What shorted the injectors?
What's amazing is I learned a lot because me and you are in the same category if the search is not big it just doesn't help using all the test equipment that you can
What do you call PROFICIENT AND PRODIGY AND INTELLECTUAL AND ACCOMPLISHED add two more SUBSTANTIAL AND KNOWLEDGEABLE The answer is Sir ScannerDanner
My teacher
Start to finish loved it thank you very much helpful information video. Take care and have a great day
PRODIGY Sir ScannerDanner
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Thanks for another great video. Everyday I wake up and check to see what ScannerDanner and Dave Hobbs has uploaded.
@Qbasic8 Yes, if I remember correctly you have to set your trigger to the RPM probe. Once you do this the "+" sign on the screen turns white. What I don't like about this is it doesn't show the trigger, it only shows the white "+" on the screen where the trigger is occurring. This is b.s. to me and snap-on needs to do something about it. A suggestion is to by a sync probe from AESwave and use it on channel 2 to trigger from instead of the RPM probe.
@ScannerDanner BTW if you are using a plug wire on the RPM trigger that would make sense that the injector current waveform goes away as the ignition and injection are not timed together. Connect your RPM trigger lead to the injector control wire instead. This should work for you, but again you will not see the trigger spike only the white "+" sign.
@Amopower No just the e-book sorry. Here is a little more about it. It is a 400+ page ebook, it is not a PDF download. What you are purchasing is a license code to access the book. It is embedded with hyperlinks to different figures within the book, which make the step by step troubleshooting tips more clear. Printing is allowed but only two pages at a time, so you could make your own paper version if you desired. Although this would be time consuming. Thanks for your interest
Thnx Mr. danner, I wish you were my instructor back when i was in the automotive school. Great video, by the way.
I didn't want to filter this one as I wanted to see detail, but thanks for the tip!
Thanks for the video...by far the best for teaching to help further understand.
@fivefortyeye540i This time base setting is for a scope only, you cannot change time base on a scanner. Remember the Verus is a scope and a scanner, so its easy to mistake which tool I am using sometimes. Different signals require different time base setting. For example, a fuel injector waveform, I may set the time base to 20m.s. screen, and a TPS waveform I may use a 5 second screen. Time base in the amount of time from end to end on the screen you are viewing,
i like it. watched the whole video and almost understood everything. im trying to learn the electronic part of mechanics and so far I find it very interesting. you did a very good job at describing your findings as well as what you did and why. I look forward to seeing and learning more in your other videos. thank you for posting :)
+david cabral thanks so much!
It's interesting to see how the scope shows the shorted injectors works
@CHIBA280CRV No, they are all sequential fired now. This means there is a separate driver for each injector and they are fired in firing order sequence. They also re-designed the injectors, so they don't short out anymore. They just stick mechanically now :)
I have a 95 Buick Park Ave , no start no crank. If I jump starter it'll run for a second and shut off but notjing at key. Resistor In key went bad causing security lockout. And kills pulse to injectors when I do jump start , if I snip purple and white rpm wire and t Into the Injectors would that stimulate the pulse I need ?
Then you get to take a screwdriver and beat the crap out of the injectors ... Better than beating the crap out of your windshield ... He he ...
@Amopower Thats cool, I grew up in South Park and I'm still there. Anyway both of your cars there is still a lot you can do with a scanner. (codes and data) Although data may be limited on the Probe. As far as a scope goes you should look into the Vantage Pro. You could even use an older Vantage (used on ebay) if you didn't want to go crazy with scope tests. You could still do coil current ramping and see fast on/off square wave signals, just not with the same detail.
Hi Your videos are also really foolproof .therefore only non fools can understand right.
Great videos. Quick question i just updated from a vantage pro to a veredict but i haven't figure out how to look at scan data and scope at the same time i'm not sure if it's only available on the verus
cool to see the injectors are sequential fired
@ScannerDanner another great instructional video :)
@ScannerDanner that would be for all 6!
@ScannerDanner I got the TweecR for the Probe about a year ago, not sure if you are familiar with it. The inventor didnt have the ability to "tweek" any settings as he couldwith otherECU's, so I told him I would be happy with read-only just to see the parameters he could pull. So is your book still available as hard copy? I know it's out there as an e-book but I actually prefer the book format if you have it.
It is the same on the Verus as it is on the Verdict all you do is minimize the page like you would do in any windows program. and put it over the scan data
helpful information.
Is there some sort of internal circuitry inside the injector that is actually shorting out? I was just wondering what could actually be the problem going on inside the injector, causing the high amperage. Thanks Paul
Your vids are great. Fellow Yinzer here, grew up in the South Hills (Bethel Park). I really want to get a scope to pick up these waveforms for O2, MAF, etc...but my cars are old - 94 Probe with EEC-IV, and a 93 Lesabre with OBD-1, so I probably wouldnt need one that does codes (since they probably only do codes on ODB-II anyway). Any recommendations?
Scannerdanner , I don't have a lab scope. My scan tool is just a inovvan ob2 can bus, I can view live data pids etc. I'm curious when u go and change ur base timing whith ur stylist for whatever the reason, what is it that ur doing? What is base timing ?
Excelente
Great man but Hey PAUL .. use a low pass filter and filter out the frequency ...
fantastic
If you measured the resistance of the injectors, would that tell you which ones are bad "shorted"?
It would, but only if you have a known good reference. It's possible on these systems that ALL of them are bad, and in this case specifically, you'd probably only have 1 injector with higher resistance, which might lead you to believe that 1 injector is the problem. It's better to look at the loaded circuit almost always instead of relying on a resistance measurement.
sweet video!!
Hey, I am using the Vantage Pro. Do you have any info on using the the RPM/Trigger pickup to be used as a trigger event? I can get the RPM to show correctly, but whenever I clamp it (and say have low amp probe on an injector) the waveform goes away when I have it set to trigger on the Aux port (trigger cable). Any ideas?
good stuff
@Username64870 LOL, I guess your right
@frosty9595 Check out LinderTech on the web, you can get a set of bosch replacments for under $250
HI Paul my 2009 Nissan Altima 2.5 I'm getting 48 volts spike injector Do you know is a Zener diode in this system?
i have a 1991 Buick century, I have an oil leak through that plug at the oil filter.I don't know why is leaking?
Hey, Paul. Could you please explain how the shorted injector overloads the driver? I know the short causes an increase in current flow, but from my understanding, if an injector is shorted t to ground( Internally or on the control wire if ground side switched), current finds a path to ground before it reaches the driver. Can you please help us understand how the driver can take a hit from a shorted injector? Your answer would be very valuable to me as your videos are.
watch these two videos, especially part 2
th-cam.com/video/KF9viLxwJNc/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/3gTLY6vsxMg/w-d-xo.html
How do I locate my fuel pump relay on my 1991 buick century custom 3300... Please help
Hi Paul I have question for you. Shorted injector has high current flow. I would expect to se higher inductive spike with high current flow. Hope this question make sense. Thank you.
great question. The reason that higher amperage does not provide a higher inductive spike is because the magnetic field overall is much much weaker.
Sure the magnetic field around the few strands of copper wire that are conductive will be higher, but what you need to remember is, it is the combination of ALL of the windings that create a large magnetic field.
Make sense?
ScannerDanner yes it does. Thank you so much for taking your time to answer my question. You are truly great teacher. Cheers
Do you have any videos diagnosing the new GDI injectors, so far I've been getting lucky on odd misfires with replacing them typically on VW's but into a Mini now. And they are pricey.
I do not, but I am sure I will in the future
Hey Paul how would you do them amp measurements on the scope without an amp clamp
You don't. You need an inductive amp clamp. The only thing you can do is a resistance measurement on the injector
Hey Dan hopefully you can help. I have a 1990 reatta. I’ve tried literally everything. New crank sensor. New cam sensor which shouldn’t matter only changes injectors from sequential to batch fire. It has spark. It has fuel. And it has injectors working. I’ve even tried unplugging them once at a time to get it to start. I’ve also swapped icm and no difference. It’ll start up after sitting overnight with battery disconnected. And when it starts it runs rough and shakes and pops out intake the tachometer goes crazy it bounces up to 6000 rpm when it’s at idle and bounces up and down all over the tach. After 5 minutes of it starting and stalling running for no more then 3-10 seconds at time it then won’t start at all and just cranks. Until I let it sit again overnight. I’ve swapped ecms as well and no difference. I tried to cut the tan white bypass wire so it would run on the ignition timing without ecm control and it didn’t start still. Doesn’t run with starting fluid either. But again it does have strong spark. I’m just lost. I know it has to do with the rpm signal showing 6000 rpm and fluctuating all over the board. Just don’t know where to go from here besides trying to rewire whole circuit from crank sensor to icm to ecm. Any idea or help would be much appreciated.
You need a lab scope my friend. We need to see what the crank signal looks like
Hey Danner! So I know a shorted injector will have a higher amperage draw, but what if you have an injector with LOW amperage draw? I have an 06 Cobalt that has constant misfires at idle, but they are barely noticeable. Mode 6 Data shows hundreds of misfires detected on one cylinder but, a single digits on other cylinders. Only set a misfire code once, but it runs great. Was messing with the scope the other day and noticed extremely low amperage on one injector. Could this be a bad driver?
Could be, but could also be a bad injector. Do a resistance measurement and compare to a known good cylinder
happened to my 89 regal with the 2.8
It help
I rebuiltu share of them alternator's.... Cs 130 Delco
Cool
Great info. What is making the current high enough to shut the car off intermittently? in other words, why doesn't that condition happen all the time when the injectors are bad?
the resistance of the shorted injector(s) changes with heat, so once current flow is high enough, that one single driver that controls all of the injectors will create a no start condition
@@ScannerDanner thanks. I was having trouble coming up with the right way to describe that in my mind. So when the cold engine starts, the shorted injector hasn't built up enough heat to overload the driver with too much current yet. But as the engine runs, the heat rises which increases current to the point of driver overload. The car would then shut off and not restart until cooled down.
Is that the right way to describe it?
@@Z14kt12timandjes1 exactly!
@@ScannerDanner thanks to God and you.... I'm getting this stuff! I actually sit behind a desk for a living so I don't have a lot of experience with this stuff, but from going through your book multiple times, your premium channel and your TH-cam channel, I thank God for what's sinking into my mind. I feel like I'm getting close! I can watch many of your videos now and predict what tests you're going to do next. Thanks so much for all you do!!! I hope you never retire.
would the multimeter ohms test the fsm would have you do catch shorted injector?
Sometimes, depending on injector temp the resistance can normalize
Old video but i will ask a question anyways. Would a 89 vette LT1 share the same injector design??? Parents gave me their old 89 vette and when it would get to operating temp it would stall and not start. Did all my basic checks and found the 3 front injectors on the Right Bank unplugged it would start and run and any of them plugged back in it would die immediately.
+Devon Morder absolutely! Do yourself a favor and change all 8.
If you do not have a scope use your ohmmeter and measure each injector. They should be 12.6 ohms each
Hey Scanner Danner, we have a 92 Pontiac Grand Prix. It has good fuel pressure and spark. It just cranks and i saw your other video and i disconnected 1 injector and sprayed brake cleaner and it fired up and ran for about 5 minutes and then shut off. I even plugged in the injector and it was still running. I ohmed 3 injectors the front ones and they read 11.8 ohms
The other 3 are under the intake so cant ohm them. The car just cranks and cranks and if i spray it with brake cleaner itll start and run. Would this be shorted injectors?
You can measure the resistance as a bank or group, either directly at the ECM connector or if it had one, the main, injector harness connector
Thanks so much for the help. It was an injector under the intake plenum. Replaced all 6 and fired up. Now he can drive to school after getting his license.
not sure on the verdict sorry
would you have been confident to replace the injectors just based on the voltage waveform and not using the amperage waveform?
+Cody Wichman yes! based on the low inductive spike. (minimum 60v is the spec)
Sort of curious now... Does the "replace them all" theory apply to the Peak-and-Hold sequential injection Multec I's, or only the Saturated Switch bank/group fire?
The only peak and hold designs were in the TBI systems and those didn't have this problem
ScannerDanner Premium Oldsmobile Quad 4 engines up to 1998 used a peak and hold Multec I in an SFI setup. Your brother recently changed a single injector on one of those engines, and I had a bit to say on the injector he used...
From what I understand, the flaw with the Multec I's is due to the coil being exposed to fuel to keep them cool. Bad fuel or aggressive cleaners strips the insulating coating off the winding and shorts it out.
Didn't realize the quad 4 used a peak and hold. If he changed only one injector, I'm okay with that as the quad 4 engine is not known for shorted injectors.
rhkips Would you go to Finish Line and only buy one new shoe? or buy a single sock...some things need to be replaced in sets...couldn't stand dumbasses that just wanted to replace one spark plug when I worked at autozone...I wanted to smack them in the face
Sweet! You can get a set of those injectors at Lindertech dot c o m for cheap
Why is your reference pulse only 0-7 volts instead of 0-12?
Paul, first just want to say thank you for all the great videos! I have a question on when the car doesn't start, the injector shows high amperage, and the driver shuts down to protect the circuit.If the circuit is shut down, how would there still be a high current flow as shown on the scope? I hope I explained my question right.
+Bryan Lamontagne I have 3 or 4 other shorted injector videos. One two part series where I'm drawing on my smartboard will answer your questions. Sorry no link offhand
lol good ol' buick with a shorted injector lol
Is that something for better viewing In real time??
Scanner Canned?
hm...maybe rpm pid wasn't there simply bcus of clear flood crank...i mean, had it been there the car would ve started which is contradictory to clear flood crank...i mean, if normal crank, maybe the rpm pid is there always(provided that there was reference)...whatever, just thinkin :)
the clear flood crank does not alter that data parameter in any way. you just can't always trust that test, use it as a guide only
I knew it was the injectors before I even saw the "SHORTED INJECTORS" BULLETPROOF ENGINE...AND EASY AS FUCK TO WORK ON... I hate Honda's and Toyota's... no room under the hood..just a mess of gay plastic covers sensors and shit...these are simple and reliable like an Ak47
not every body has a scope not good for me
keep watching, I gave the alternative resistance measurements either in this video or another shorted injector video I've done. It's not all about the scope as much as it is the process.