@@Grandadstrainroom-pn3tt. In case it helps - I sent a copy of my Anyrail design to DCC Train Automation (the same firm Charlie at Chadwick used for his helix) and they used this to quote me for the kit I needed. Great Service from this firm. I have no commercial connection to DCCTA, just a very satisfied customer. Also I invested in the digital spirit level - invaluable for helix construction. Good Luck with your project. T🚂🚂
Really enjoy your video's. With regard to incline, I have an incline of 20 foot and a rise of 70mm. I have found many of my older steam locomotives struggle with six coaches. Diesels being heavier are all OK. Keep up the good work. Martyn.
Great video as ever, just my 10 pences worth, Just be careful with those inclines sitting around 2%, make it shallower if you can. I've had a few drama's with locos being able to pull more than a rake of 9 up the woodland scenics 2% grade, ended up adding the dcc concepts powerbase to fix it and lift the track a little to 1.5%. ...keep up the good work!
Thank you. Good question! Back to back points would work (and I have enough!). It’s just quite limited for space so I thought double slip would reduce space needed. Having said that, I’ve just got the door fitted and can extend that area by about another 400mm… 👍
I think Charlie at Chadwick has his inclines at just over 2% so I am sure your’s will work ok…you can look at his previous vlogs to see if this is correct…😊
I know the goods yard is on the back burner, however a couple of thoughts. Do you need to move the double slip that falls across the joint anyway so that all the sidings can work with the head-shunt? Also does the whole yard need a head-shunt which might mean re-aligning the main running track? Currently to move any wagons out of the tracks with the run-around you are going to have to run out onto the main line to move around, into sidings etc? You mention Charlie at Chadwick. He did a very thorough video about designing a goods yard (which you may have seen) and is also “Mr Helix! Even if it is following what he used, at least it would give you some point of reference and ideas if there are no r3views out there?
Thanks. Yes, I see what you mean (told you I’m no expert!). I’ve just put the door frame in and I can extend that area by about another 400mm so I’ll be heading back to AnyRail! 👍
Hi. I started off using an airbrush because that’s what a lot of folk on TH-cam were doing. My airbrush was really cheap and not very good so this got messy! Now I thin down RailMatch sleeper grime and roof dirt and just brush it on 👍
Once again. I really enjoyed watching your videos. Look forward to seeing how it all works out. 👍👍👍
Thanks very much 👍
Charlie at Chadwick is the man to talk to about helix's
Yes, watched his videos on the helix. 👍
@@Grandadstrainroom-pn3tt. In case it helps - I sent a copy of my Anyrail design to DCC Train Automation (the same firm Charlie at Chadwick used for his helix) and they used this to quote me for the kit I needed. Great Service from this firm. I have no commercial connection to DCCTA, just a very satisfied customer. Also I invested in the digital spirit level - invaluable for helix construction. Good Luck with your project. T🚂🚂
thanks very much for that. Think I’ll check them out. They do look to be of a higher quality than others I’ve seen 👍
Really enjoy your video's. With regard to incline, I have an incline of 20 foot and a rise of 70mm. I have found many of my older steam locomotives struggle with six coaches. Diesels being heavier are all OK. Keep up the good work. Martyn.
Thank you. Good to know! 👍
would adding a point motor to the points that don't throw completely solve the problem.
Might be worth a try 👍
Try Charlie at Chadwick for the helix he has two.
Thanks. Yes, seen his videos on them 👍
You should be able to reuse the points, I give them a scrub in warm soapy water with a toothbrush.
Brilliant, thank you 👍
Great video as ever, just my 10 pences worth, Just be careful with those inclines sitting around 2%, make it shallower if you can. I've had a few drama's with locos being able to pull more than a rake of 9 up the woodland scenics 2% grade, ended up adding the dcc concepts powerbase to fix it and lift the track a little to 1.5%. ...keep up the good work!
Thank you for that. Good to know 👍
Hello sir, what is the name/brand of your background wallpaper? I like this one.
Hello there. The brand is ‘iD Backscenes’. Have a look at idbackscenes.com. 👍
nice video, always enjoyable. So, a stupid question. Why double slip rather than two points back to back?
Thank you. Good question! Back to back points would work (and I have enough!). It’s just quite limited for space so I thought double slip would reduce space needed. Having said that, I’ve just got the door fitted and can extend that area by about another 400mm… 👍
great update and explanation what ur doing, love the idea of printing out Anyrail plans makes it a lot easier to plan the area
Thank you. Yes, it really helps 👍
I think Charlie at Chadwick has his inclines at just over 2% so I am sure your’s will work ok…you can look at his previous vlogs to see if this is correct…😊
Good to know. Thank you 👍
Try this one on Chadwick…. Managing Inclines and Layout Update at Chadwick Model Railway No 123.
Hi Charlie applied DCC Concepts ‘Powerbase’ under the outer (Up) line. I did the same - Has proved a great help with any older ‘steamers’. T🚂
@@tonytid1045 I’ve been looking at those. Might be a wise investment! 👍
I know the goods yard is on the back burner, however a couple of thoughts. Do you need to move the double slip that falls across the joint anyway so that all the sidings can work with the head-shunt? Also does the whole yard need a head-shunt which might mean re-aligning the main running track? Currently to move any wagons out of the tracks with the run-around you are going to have to run out onto the main line to move around, into sidings etc?
You mention Charlie at Chadwick. He did a very thorough video about designing a goods yard (which you may have seen) and is also “Mr Helix! Even if it is following what he used, at least it would give you some point of reference and ideas if there are no r3views out there?
Thanks. Yes, I see what you mean (told you I’m no expert!). I’ve just put the door frame in and I can extend that area by about another 400mm so I’ll be heading back to AnyRail! 👍
Hello how do you weather your track please
Hi. I started off using an airbrush because that’s what a lot of folk on TH-cam were doing. My airbrush was really cheap and not very good so this got messy! Now I thin down RailMatch sleeper grime and roof dirt and just brush it on 👍