Thank you Giz! Just remember that when you do this job, take your time, look back over your work and never rush yourself to where you feel uncomfortable. When you're satisfied with every step as you progress along, you'll know in the end, you've done a great job! Thanks again Giz...
Thanks for responding. I knew something was off and reviewed your video again. I confirmed all the parts and timing on the top end but noted I have two marks on the crank pully, a green one on the inside and a very light white one on the very outside edge, slightly embosssed. I remember your white paper behind yours and realized I had been using the green mark. Turns over great and now runs well. Thank you so much for the great teaching. S
Great job Steve!!!! I was really worried about you about maybe having the cams in backwards. I could only go by what you told me that everything was in time and the valves weren't bent. Glad to hear that you saw the correct timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket and got your vehicle running great. You're quite welcomed and always glad to help!
Thank you for being so detailed. I am a kustom car painter but turn wrenches for this little ol' guy. Never done timing belt before. I didn't mind it at all.. You guys always make us girls look so smart ! Thankyou
Very very good video. Stuzman52 presented a very detailed video covering many areas where many mechanics are afraid to work on. Congratulations Stuzman52.
You'll be okay Bob with the timing belt change. Don't worry! If this is your first time, it is a little scary, but as I've said before, DO NOT rush yourself. Take your time, double check over each step that you do and you'll see that it's really a easy job. Keep us posted and like I said, holler out if you're not sure about something.
Hi J diaz, I believe you mean the camshaft cover. There are three openings or tubes as you may call them. All of these openings are used for ventilation of bypass gases and fresh air intake for this process. On cleaning the cover, I let the cover sit in mineral spirits for several hours which should at least loosen any loose debris. Then I took an air hose and blowed everything dry including the openings that you mention. Hope that helps you. Thanks for watching!
Angel, I tried to make these videos as detailed as possible so that anyone with a mechanical background could handle this job. I'm sure that you won't have any problem with your repair. The only advice that I can give you as I have to others is not to rush this job. Watching the details is very important and one mistake could take you back to the beginning. So, take your time and with each step through the project, don't go to the next step until you're very sure of what you've done and that you're satisfied with it. Sounds, like you're going to do a GREAT job and thank you for your comments on the videos.
I have spent the past several days following your installation videos. They have been a great benefit for my situation! Thank you! I am still not finished though as I ran into a problem. When replacing the timing belt idler pulleys, the left pulley's bolt released from the block instead of the nut loosening. So now I have the old pulley with the bolt out from the block and I do not not how to loosen the nut from the pulley. Our local Suzuki parts house does not have the bolt (back ordered.)
Hi Darren, you were correct the first time when you mentioned that the nut was a bronze or copper colored nut. Take a look at this video at timeline starting at 23:45 and you can see. And this nut should easily screw down on that bolt. I could screw the nut onto the bolt all the way down with my fingers. They probably gave you the wrong nut which probaby has a different pitch from your bolt. Be cautious with this. Do you have a thread gauge where you can measure the threads of the bolt and nut?
Wow, that's unbelievable Darren. It sure is good that you caught a small detail like this. Yes, it sounds like the nut maybe fused to the bolt for some reason. Did you get a new nut to go along with your bolt? Really good catch on that one Darren. Sounds to me like you're doing a great job on this one. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the tip on installing belt makes it a lot easier, never to old to learn something new. Used it today to finish 07 forenza head job due to broken timing belt. Total of 10 bent valve 600.00 our cost on head job from machine shop
No problem Wayne and glad to help. And you're right, even at my age, it's always something new to learn. Yeah, the machine shop work was about 550.00 for myself, so it sounds like it's right on target for your machine shop. I see that you're in NC also as myself. Glad to see another North Carolina resident. Take care Wayne and try not working too hard...
Hi Ray and I appreciate you taking the time to watch the videos. The only component that will take up the slack on the intake side would the tensioner. If you had missed a tooth on the belt while routing the belt around the sprockets and then when you tightened the tensioner, it's possible that the belt will jump and then that would give you extra slack in the belt. Of course, with either of these conditions, the timing would be off. And it's possible Ray that the valves could be bent.
Hi Billy Bob! In my case Bob, it really came from the belt being torn apart because the tensioner bolt became loose. In your case, the belt isn't broken. Turn the crank clockwise until the mark on the crank is lined up with the notch AND the camshaft sprocket marks are lined up with the notches on the camshaft cover. Take a look at the cylinder leak down test video. I show all the marks lined up very well in that video. Once ALL the marks are lined up, clamp the cam sprockets together cont)...
Hi David. I have no idea if the tension is correct on your belt. Just look at this video and follow the procedure. Get the pointer of the tensioner in its slot. Rotate the crank around and see if it stays put. It's all in this video. I don't see no video that you posted.
Hi Darren, Having the left bolt to unscrew itself out of the block shouldn't have happened because that bolt is torqued to 41 ft-lbs and the nut for the idler is at 18 ft-lbs. Good that you caught this! Okay, take a look at this video at timeline 11:47 and you will see the smooth shank of this bolt. Put a pair of channel locks on it to secure it and then take the nut off. Sounds like someone really TIGHTENED that nut up too much. That should get you going! Let's us know how it goes.
Yes, I ordered the nut as well. On my way now to work on it! The nut seems to be made of the same material, so my idea of not being the right one must be wrong. The new one is also hard to thread onto the bolt, so who knows. :-)
the head cover has a tube that goes to the intake, (filter?) does it has to be cleaned? please explain what function does it has. THANK YOU SO MUCH, G. bless you
Thanks for videos,they were very detailed.I actually just replaced a timing belt on an 07 forenza and Im not sure what exactly happened but after I started the car it ran fine so I reinstalled all the covers and started it again but it began to make a noise so I shut it off and found the intake side extremly loose. Any thoughts on this as to why. Im pretty sure it has bent vaves now but not sure why.Any help would be appreciated.
as I show in this video. The video here will show you the step by step procedure. Once you get the belt on, turn the crank over at LEAST two turns and then check ALL your marks. They should all be just like in the beginning. You WILL know for sure if it is out by one tooth. Look at the marks before and then look at them again after the belt is on. You won't have any problem knowing if you're out a tooth or so. Hope that helps you, and again, if you have any questions, holler out!
The water pump that came with the timing belt kit looks a little different then the one you have in the video, but not by much. I am not really sure if the water pump is not in correctly or maybe I am doing something wrong with the tension windings.
Go ahead and get the belt back on and in time, but don't crank the engine as you may do more damage. Get each piston up on TDC, compression and put some air in there. If you haven't taken a look, go back to my video "Suzuki Cylinder Leak Down Test". I explain everything in detail in this video to see if your valves are bent. Let me know what you find out Ray, and I sure hope you don't have any valves bent.
Thanks Dave, I appreciate the kind words. I've seen a lot of stuff out there on tensioners, but never really detailed. It took a little while to get the staging set, but I wanted it to be as detailed as possible. I'm trying to shoot these videos with beginners in mind who want to work on their cars, and I try to anticipate what questions they would wonder about. So, I took out any guess work of any concerns that they may have. Thanks again Dave for watching!
And to ensure that this doesn't happen as far as a belt breaking and bending valves is simple. Change the belt when it's scheduled for at 60,000 miles. 55,000 wouldn't hurt. And you can do an inspection of the timing components every 30,000 miles to make sure there is no coolant or oil leakage as that will really kill a belt and shorten its life. And of course, a visual inspection of the belt to be sure that it's not fraying, etc.
Hi pedropct...You're right, you've got a crazy vehicle there. To tell you the truth, at this point I'm not sure what's going on. Which cylinder is getting oil, or is it all of them? Did a compression check show anything?
I could not get the nut to release from the bolt even by putting it into a vise and putting a impact gun to it! Of course, after this the bolt is no good, but I ordered a new one from the parts house. I have no idea why this nut was so tight. I am not sure if this nut was original? It looks to be made of some sort of copper or brass looking material! Maybe it had fused to the bolt?
How do you ensure something like this does not happen? I plan to do my timing belt soon, and I totally want to avoid something like this from happening. How do I know for sure that I am not missing a tooth?
+Mike King Glad to hear Mike the videos were helpful. I really can't remember if there was a washer or not on the tensioner bolt since it was awhile back. You should be able to take a look at the video of where I disassemble it and should be able to tell from there.
Hi Angel. Most of the parts came from www.rockauto.com The head gasket set that I used which covers 2004-2008 Suzuki Forenza is Fel-Pro HS26317PT and costs $74.99. Keep in mind that this gasket set does not include the EGR gasket. Be sure to pick up some head bolts also. The ones that I used for my 2006 Suzuki Forenza were also Fel-Pro and its number is ES729061 and it costs $26.79. Be sure to select your year, make, model, etc. as I'm only using these numbers as a guide to what I used. Your numbers may be the same if your year is like mine. Generic parts like spark plugs, wires, coolant, air filter, oil, oil filter, etc. I just picked up at my local auto store. Hope that helps you out Angel and good luck with your repair.
I seem to have a problem with getting the arrow of the tensioner into the proper spot. I put the bolt in the center of the tensioner and tighten then loosen. Then I am rotating the center piece clockwise. I had someone look at the arrow. while I did this and it appears as the arrow is hitting the water pump sprocket and stopping the arrow from moving. Continued. . . .
Great video! I have a question tho, when I try to line up the arrows on the camshaft sprocket, the left arrow is pointing at about a 1 o'clock and the right arrow is about 1/2 an inch to the right. I try to move it, but it goes back to the same position. Seems like they only do a quarter turn. How do I adjust the cam sprockets so that they can point up? I would really appreciate you help and guidance, please. Thanks and hope to hear from you. Have a great day.
Hi Mick...When I did the head job and timing belt change on the Forenza, I remember that I didn't have to move the intake camshaft at all as its mark was pretty darn close to being straight up. Just make sure that there isn't another mark that you're looking at. The exhaust camshaft was as you mentioned being a little to the right. I assume that you don't have any issues with valves, that the belt didn't break etc. If you're sure all of that is okay, get a helper to move one of the cam sprockets into alignment and then you'll adjust the other cam sprocket. Of course, you'll need two ratchets and two Torx bits. When you have both sprockets in alignment, then clamp them together with a pair of vise grips. I show this in one of the videos. Just remember, you don't have to put a lot of force on the vise grips. Just enough to keep them from moving. Once you get the sprockets in place, start routing the belt with the vise grips in place. Then when you get the belt tensioned, remove the vise grips and rotate the crankshaft at least two revolutions and see if the mark on the crank sprocket and two cam sprockets stay aligned. Hope that helps you out and you have a good day too.
I found when I installed the gates belt / pump kit on my Chevrolet optra that the tensioner 6mm hole striped real easy. I got the pointer aligned in the "new" position and then torqued the tensioner bolt. I noticed though while manually turning the crankshaft when it was done that the pointer would bounce between the new and used marks on the tensioner. I am guessing that it is normal because tensioners have to to have some flex in them? The belt is tight and it drives just fine.
Hi Buchanan. Yes, that is correct. The tensioner will move around as you're turning the crankshaft and is normal. I mentioned this in one of the videos, but I can't remember which one. The idea is that you want the tensioner to be at the new mark once the belt is not turning. Sounds like you did a pretty good job.
stuzman52 Thank you, It was alot easier with my buddy helping me install it. Couldn't imagine trying to do it by yourself, trying to align everything without two sets of hands and keeping an eye on the timing marks. Thanks for the info I was just worried it wasn't locked in properly because the needle was moving but yes it was in the "New" position when all the timing marks were lined up. It was just annoying because the 6mm Allen hole striped and we had to set the final clocking of the tensioner in place with a straight screwdriver instead of a 6mm Allen wrench. There isn't much depth for the Allen head to sit in so I think that is what caused it to strip.
HI I MERRY CHRISTMAS TO YOU TERRY. I HAVE A DOUBT ABOUT HOW LOOSE THE TIMING BELST SHOULD GET AFTER SAY SOME MILES OF USE. I MEAN THE BELT WILL STRETCH RIGHT!? SO THE POINTER OF MY TENSIONER SHOULD BE IN THE SAME POSITION IN LEFT IT WHEN I INSTALLED IT? THANKS AGAIN
Merry Christmas to you also Pedro. According to timing belt manufacturers, they say that timing belts don't stretch because of the new materials in them. Yes, your tensioner should stay put in the notch until the next belt change.
hey mister Pike, so I thought this timing belt was going to be a walk in the park but it's getting more difficult than I expected. the exhaust cam has a tendency to spring back so I use the same method you showed in your video. two issues: 1- the tensioner needle always moves back though I tightened it firmly. 2- both cams end up one tooth shy of the marks on the valve cover. what do you think I'm doing wrong here?
The tensioner is tricky to adjust to get the pointer inside the notch, but it can be done. It took me several tries as you saw in the video. Don't worry about the pointer moving if you're talking about as the engine is being turned over by hand. That is normal. The key is you want the pointer to be inside the notch once you've rotated the engine at least two revolutions. If you're starting with the marks on the sprockets correctly, you should end up with them on the same marks on the valve cover. Not sure what your issue is. Also, don't forget about the crankshaft mark as that's got to be lined up too along with the cam sprocket marks. Keep at it and I'm sure you'll get it :)
Original Mechanic (TH-camr) did a three part video series for changing the timing belt change on the same or very similar engine (Daewoo). Here is a link to his first video th-cam.com/video/DOBXIZN8TxQ/w-d-xo.html Also, he did a write up for the procedure which may help too. That's located here www.originalmechanic.com/2014/03/how-to-replace-front-crankshaft-seal.html Hopefully, that will give you some insight...
I have a question. I remember you mentioning in a previous video that the crankshaft rotates two full times. The markes are lined up correctly but how do I know which rotation it is in (1st or 2nd), if that makes any sense. My timing belt broke on me on the highway and bent 4 valves and I have had all that repaired but now Im not sure if it is in the right rotation. Or does it not matter as long as it is aligned right?
+JacobyLuver09 Glad to hear that the videos are helpful. Just take your time on your project as you don't want to go back in there again. And when you go faster than you feel comfortable, then usually something bad is going to happen in the end. Good luck on your project!
Hey Terry, I'm installing the timing belt and everything lines up good but when I rotate the engine, the tensioner keeps moving around and I have to start over again. I"ve tightened the bolt more than 18 ft lbs but the backing plate that has the tang keeps moving. I made sure the tang is between the notches like you pointed out but the thing keeps moving. I hope the new tensioner is not bad. Any ideas?
+Allen Riddle Hey Allen...not quite sure if I understand what you're saying. The pointer on the tensioner will move when you turn the crank. This is all normal. You want the pointer to stay inside the notch when you finish turning the crank. Is that what you're saying? And you shouldn't need to turn the bolt more than 18 ft-lbs.
+stuzman52 Thanks for the quick reply. I think I'm ok now. I had to reset the tensioner pointer 4 times before it finally stayed where it was supposed to. I'm guessing the belt tracking & other factors kept moving it. I thought maybe the tensioner was bad. I've cycled the engine 4 more times and the pointer stays put now so I should be ok. Timing marks are on the money also!
Hi Si. The service manual call for it to be removed. I can't remember, but I think it has to be removed to get the timing belt cover off past the pulley. If you see where you can remove the cover without removing the pulley, then give it a try. It's only four small bolts holding on, so it's not really a big deal to remove.
Hi Terry, I am having g a problem with the tentioner. I can not get the little dial to move where it needs to go. It did twice but when I released the timing gears, it went back. I cant get it to move forward. The center piece will tighten, but then loosen again. Do you know what I'm doing wrong by chance?
I assume that you're tightening the bolt once you get the pointer where it needs. If so, there has been talk about the water pump being an issue. Be sure that the water pump is fully turned clockwise facing the engine before tightening its bolts. If that doesn't work, then you may want to carefully inspect any differences between the old water pump and the new one. I'm assuming that you're replacing it also.
Hi Terry. I was trying to do the way the video was, but as it turns out, the 6mm pointer, I was thinking it should be in the same place as yours. That was my problem. Once I turned it more, which ended up being towards the lower right side instead. All the slack went away and the pointer is correct now. Think I must have been tired. Just couldnt get past it. Thankyou for getting back to me. I did replace water pump too. I ordered a kit initially after watching the videos.
Great video and camera work. Need your help with my 2005 forenza 2.0. I removed and re-installed the oil pan, oil pump, new water pump, and had head resurfaced and changed gaskets. Got things together and crank alone turns over easily, but when testing with timing belt, crankshaft turns 1/2 turn and stops. I check timing marks, and got the intake/exhast cam gears positioned same as video. Could I have the cams switched? Is there ID on the cams for intake/exhast? Any ideas? Thanks
Let's review Steve. Forgetting about the bottom end of the engine, it sounds like you had a head gasket issue with no bent valves. You put everything back together and all the timing marks line up. So, what's left? If you're running into some hard resistance with the crank and it won't budge but 1/2 turn, then yes, you've got something wrong. Having the cams reversed could definitely create your problem as the valves could be open when the piston is at the top. I don't recall any ID on the camshafts, but that's not to say there isn't something on them. I never looked that close because as you may know in one of the videos when I removed them, I wrapped them up in Saran wrap and then marked on the wrapping intake and exhaust. My best advice is to take a close look at the video of where I install the camshafts with the timing marks aligned. In that video you will be looking at the cam lobes of both camshafts to see if there is any difference in their location compared to yours when all the timing marks are aligned. Good luck and hope you find the issue.
Terry, Thank you again. Need a bit more help. Car runs well and after 20 minute warm up and short drive, oil start leaking from the area just below the crank pully. After un-bolting the large crank pully and serpentine belt, I started engine and saw oil pouring out of timing cover just below the crank. I removed and replaced the oil pan and oil pump and main front seal, but made mistake by installing crank pully before the rear timing cover and had trouble removing the crank pully, possibly damaging it. Can I change the seal from the front or do I need to remove the oil pump? Can I remove and replace oil pump without removing oli pan? S
Steve, you don't need to remove the oil pump to replace the front crankshaft seal. A blind seal tool remover will make the job a lot easier. You can see it here.... www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Shaft-Type-Puller/dp/B000FPYW4K To see the tool in action, check out Brian's video here... Tool Review Lisle 58430 Blind Seal Puller And to see another person replacing the same exact seal as on your engine, but not using the tool, check him out here.... How to replace a leaking oil seal Good luck...
Terry! Awesome videos, I have been able to replace valves in my 2002 Daewoo Leganza with a very similar engine because of your instructions. However, after replacing the water pump, left idler and tensioner pulley I can not get the necessary slack out of the timing belt. As I rotate the crank with the belt on and the tensioner set as tight is it can be the belt skips a tooth or two on the cam sprockets. I'm thinking maybe the new water pump could be slightly different? I ordered it off Rock Auto, from Auto 7 part # 3120172. Other than that I don't know what else could cause the belt to have too much slack... Any ideas? Even when I I adjust the tensioner pulley there is no deflection in the needle at all. I think my next step will be to install the old pump and see if that takes out any slack in the belt. Thanks in advance!
Thanks T.J. on the comments for the videos. I've heard other folks having the same issue and it turned out that there was some difference between the old and new water pump. Try the old pump as a test to see if you can get the slack out of the belt. I'm pretty sure that is what your issue is.
stuzman52 Turns out I didn't have the water pump situated in the right position... Rookie mistake. Belt went on and everything lines up well now! Only problem I'm having now is after installing everything, I'm getting the engine to crank very slowly without starting. Seems like I'm not getting any fuel or possibly no spark, maybe a crank position sensor problem? I'll do some more troubleshooting and get back to you.
I would be going after why the engine is turning over slowly. Is the battery okay? Battery cables, terminals, etc. Did the car start fine before the job? Unless you get the engine turning over fast enough, I wouldn't worry about the fuel and spark at this point.
I might as well ask here, and in your 4 part video on the timing belt for others. Which rebuild kit did you go with, AC delco, Gates, Goodyear? some people have been having problems with the Gates water pump on the Suzuki-Forums(com)., going bad prematurely, it get the belt wet and BOOM!
Yes, I went with the Gates kit and can only say from my experience that after 15,000 miles the car ran fine with no issues. I sold the car afterwards. Which manufacturer did you find that has a better water pump?
Angel, I'm not going to recommend that you turn the bolts another 90 degrees. What I will recommend is that you get another head gasket, another set of head bolts and start over. You're not to far in the process and why chance it. Even if the bolts are turned three times, turning them another 90 degrees will weaken the bolts. Do you want to take that chance and then later, you have a blown head gasket? Just chalk this one up that you want forget the next time. As a reminder, put a small amount of paint on the bolt. Then put another mark 270 degrees away from the paint mark on the bolt. That can serve as your reminder of where you're at. Good luck on your repair.
hey, me and my dad are having trouble getting the tensioner to tighten, any suggestions on how to get it to tighten we keep turning the 6mm Allan wrench but it doesn't tighten the tensioner
JD123 some people have mentioned that the water pump needs to be turned fully clockwise facing the front of the engine and then tighten the water pump bolts. If still no joy, take the pump off and compare with old pump.
Hey this is jdm123 on a different TH-cam account. Thank you so much for your help me and my dad got the old water pump back on and it worked just fine!
Hi Stuzman I have a problem I replaced timing belt head when I got it all together the tensioner kept moving out of place so I replaced that also now got everything back together got he tensioner to maybe a little over 18ft lbs of torque and when I turn engine with my ratchet the tensioner arrow moves back and forth i made sure the tab on the tensioner went into the correct slot is it supposed to do thaT
Lucas Leander Nevermind even though I watched your video multiple times i watched it again and you were all over my problem thanks for covering all the bases
Lucas Leander Not to worry Lucas...when you're turning the crankshaft, it's normal for the pointer to move around slightly as the belt is moving. The key is to have the pointer in the slot at rest. Good to see that you got it figured out from your other posting.
pedropct, are you sure the oil is coming from inside the cylinder? I have a similar problem but I think my oil is coming from the spark plug shaft. Once the spark plug is removed, the oil then drains into the cylinder.
Hey stuzman, when I install the timing belt and everything is aligned. I did what you did at the end of this video to see that everything lines up however the crankshaft pulley is very hard to rotate and I do not want to force it. Is this normal or is something wrong?
You never mentioned if the timing belt broke and if so, you're just installing a new belt. If the belt broke, you will have bent valves which can prevent the crank from turning over. If your belt didn't break and you're just replacing it for routine maintenance, it's normal to feel a little resistance while during the crank because the valves on some cylinders will be closed and you would be feeling the resistance of pistons coming up on their compression stroke. So, did your timing belt break?
I know this is a old video and i'm unsure if you still reply on this however When I get the cams and crank to total dead center, tighten the tensioner properly & everything is torqued to spec, it looks perfect, however, when I rotate the engine by hand a full rotation, the crank ends up being a few teeth off? I'm unsure how this is even possible as it's all tight with extremely little slack (can slightly bend when i touch it but can't move over any teeth with the amount of slack it has just like yours) How can i...fix this? Or avoid it? I loosened the tensioner, took the belt off along with the left idler pulley, put it all back together, tightened to spec at TDC, hand rotated, and boom, not centered again. In your video you do it flawlessly and it all works perfect, guess i'm just a bit lost / confused on what i'm doing wrong, any information helps, thanks.
Hi Coventix! Turn the crank TWO revolutions and you should see that all of your marks will align on the crankshaft and the two camshafts. Have a great day!
@@stuzman52 Yes, I have done that. The camshaft itself comes...out of TDC after the two revolutions (1 full rotation). Cams are still perfect but crank will not stay on TDC
@@Coventix The only thing that I can think of is that when you tighten the tensioner is that the crank moves a little off from where you set it. If this is the case, maybe you can shift the crank a little so that when you tighten the tensioner, the crank comes back into alignment. If that's not the case, I really don't know why the crank is getting off.
@@stuzman52 Update/fix for those with the same problem. I rotated the crankshaft off of dead center, white mark a bit towards the right, then routed the belt around both cams, crank & tensioner. (cams clamped) I then rotated the crank back to dead center with the belt partially on removing all slack from the right side, pulled the belt to the water pump & around the left idler, installed left idler, tightened tensioner properly, rotated engine, perfect TDC still.
@@Coventix Glad to hear that you got your timing marks aligned and all went well. Your comment should help a lot of folks out there who may participate this issue. Have a great day!
@@generuss8291 We're probably talking about the same thing. It should be a small cut across the crankshaft pulley. It's been quite awhile since I did this job, but I'm sure that it's shown in the video. Did you see it in there?
@@generuss8291 Yes, that does sound like it as it is small. If you haven't seen the video, just make sure it looks like what I describe in the video. But it sounds like you're on the right mark.
I also have one more question. When I got my car back from the local shop they gave me my car with all bolts to everything in the back seat. we have found the home for everything exept for one bolt that has a small hole in the top that is a 10mm star head, there some thread in it with a hole in a steam that is about 3/4 of an inch. Is there anyway that I can send you a picture of it? I cannot find a picture of it online or anything.
+JacobyLuver09 You can send it to stuzman52@gmail.com but I'm not sure if I'll be able to identify it. So, someone else started the work and then gave it back over to you.
+stuzman52 I will send it in a minute. My timing belt broke the day before I was supposed to leave town and I usually do all the work myself but we ended up taking it to a shop and once they figured out that the valves were bent they said they pretty much wouldn't do anything with it other than send it to a head shop. they still charged me for some work but they gave me my car back in pieces with a bunch of bolts and parts laying in my backseat. it was very odd that they did that but we just pushed it back to my place to work on it.
+JacobyLuver09 Forgive my language, but fucking unbelievable the shop did that. And that's why I do all the work on my own vehicles too, even if it means rebuilding automatic transmissions which I have done. It's good that you got most of those bolts figured out. You did get new head bolts? Not sure I can help on that bolt that you've got as I don't have the car or service manual as I sold the car about two years ago.
+stuzman52 I was suprised that they did that. They also charged me $90 for just the belt which I though was high. There is an online manual that is free. I saw you have posted it before. lacetti.com.ua/chevy-man/EN/documents/Nubira-Lacetti/start_Nubira-Lacetti.html. this has helped me a lot but I still cant find anything.
Just make sure that when you install it that you rotate it fully clockwise until it hits the stops. Then tighten it down in that position. Otherwise, you may have an issue when tensioning the timing belt.
Hello! I have a question about belt tensioner. I did everything as you recommend but the pointer did return to the previously set position when timing marks were again matched! I'm thinking it is normal for this type of tensioner. The belt is not slack whatever keep tension. Thanks
I lined up tensioner's pointer with notch then I turned over crankshaft few times and notices that pointer moved left away from notch . But belt still keep tension.Is it ok or needs to readjust tensioner again ?
Andrii Averianov it's normal for the pointer to move around when you're turning the crank shaft. As long as the pointer stays within the notch after you stop turning the crank shaft, it's OK. It sounds like you're good to go
Hello. Great videos! I've got a question. I just replaced belt because of a broke tensioner bolt. Car just died driving 70 mph. After reinstalling the car turns over but wont fire up. No clicking or abnormal sounds just wont start. I got all the marks lined up but can something be off? If it takes 2 crank rotations to equal 1 cam could one be 180 degree off? Or do you think I have bad valves even though it sounds normal? thanks for any help and the great videos!
clint morten When that belt broke at 70 miles an hour, I can guarantee that you have bent valves. I’m sure your marks are fine. Time to do a leak down test as I show in the first video of this serious. Good luck on your repair. 😩
Never looked into that Mike, but here is a manual for the car which should help. Although, it's for a different model, the engine should be the same. lacetti.com.ua/chevy-man/EN/documents/Nubira-Lacetti/start_Nubira-Lacetti.html
It's my understanding the the Forenza doesn't have a PCV valve. There is a small passageway that's molded in the camshaft cover to direct the blowby gasses into the vacuum through a vacuum hose attached to the camshaft cover. There's always baffles under the camshaft cover to help separate the oil and vapors.
Rodney, did you check for flatness of the head? That's the only thing that I can think of. And did you have any overheating issue? If so, you may have a warped head. That's all I can think of at the moment.
When my tensioner pulley is installed and I rotate the tab on the front, the pointer doesn't turn or move. Is there a trick to this? Am I missing something?
The only thing that I can think of is that the tensioner has to be pressing on the belt. If there is any kind of slack, the tensioner pointer will never move.
The belt was on, and we were trying to take the slack out of it with the tensioner, but the pointer wasn't moving. By the way, you have an excellent series of very detailed videos!
Hi t0. What other thing that I thought about later was someone who was having a similar problem. It turns out that his water pump was slightly different from his original one. The sprocket on the new pump was in a different location than the old pump. He put the old water pump back on, and he found that the tensioner's pointer would move because it was pressing on the belt. So, if you replaced the water pump, take a look at your old one and compare it to your new one. Hopefully, that should help you out if you did replace the pump. And thank you for the comment on the videos as I appreciate it. Take care t0...
OK so doing this full job here and I can not get that darn timing belt on I can have taken the pulley off as instructed and I can not get that sucker on there please let me know. what my problem is
HELP - I have reached part 15 of head install. The timing belt is installed. When I tried to test it, the crankshaft jammed and would not turn any further after one and about 1/4th revolutions. What did I do wrong. I turned the engine over when cleaning to raise the front two pistions to TDC to clean. I did not turn them to their positions. When I first installed the cams they tighened down fine. What would Stuzman Do?
Hi Fred, you didn't say what your initial issue was. Did you have bent valves, head gasket issue, etc.? If you're sure all of the valves are okay, did you make sure that all the timing marks are okay? Can't think of anything else at the moment.
stuzman52 The original prob was a bad head gaskent....white smoke out of exhaust.. Thus, replacing the head gasket is the build. All the marks were in sync. I'm thinking right now that I need start all over I will cylcle the enging back to where I first took off the heads and rebuild from there. I am have a hard time with abstract thinking regarding the engine, crank, valves and cam cycles and how the cams would find correctly regarding where the pistons are, etc....Is there a website with this info?
Fred Holloway I'm sure there are some website out there Fred as you may just do a Google search and see what you come up with. If all of your marks are synced up and the valves aren't bent, you should be able to rotate the crank. Are you sure that you're not feeling resistance or can you definitely feel a spot where it just won't budge? Not sure what to tell you Fred on that.
stuzman52 I couldn't budge it with my breaker bar and it seems like it it locked up against something hard. I will do some more research on it. I will let you know what the proble is, if and when. Thanks for you help. I really really appreaciate your videos.
hi i just finished installing my timing belt. i went ahead to turn from the crankshaft and does not move. it only moves some degrees then it gets stuck. please any suggestions? thanks!
Well handsum. That's not a good sign. Didn't you pull the head on this? If so, I'm sure that all the valves are okay. And I assume that you have the timing correct. If not, there's your problem. If so, try this. Take the belt back off and then make sure that the cam sprockets are aligned to their marks. Clamp them together with the vise grips. See if the crank will move then. If so, turn the crank 90 degrees either direction. This will put all the pistons in the middle of their cylinders. Now go back to the cam sprockets and take the vise grips off. See if you can turn each cam and see if there are any bindings going on. You don't have to worry about the valves hitting the pistons now because they're down in the middle of the cylinders. See where that leads you.
hello i did that before installing the belt. i mean the camshafts turn freelly and also the crankshaft. also the timing marks are aligned. this is very strange. can this be caused by a misalighment on the belt? i mean when i put the left idler the belt got little misaligned at the end where it connects to the intake gear.
Sounds like you've got a bind there some where. As you've mentioned, since all is turning fine, make sure all your idlers, water pump, etc. turn okay. Other than that, I can't think of anything else. Sounds like you're pretty close to finding your trouble. Keep at it handsum, I'm sure you're see what's going on.
ok I have to be petty here... You were naming the idler pulleys backwards. The exhaust side of the engine is the "left" side and the intake is the "right" side. and now I want to ask, your accent sound south east, maybe Florida. But where is your wife from?
Ah, come on Buddy, give me a break (smiling). Yeah, you're probably right going by which side of the engine is left and right. Just to be sure, I looked it up in the FSM to see if there was any mention of left and right idlers. Nope, all it said was remove/install timing belt idler pulleys. As for where I'm from, you're right about the southeast and I live in NC. And my wife is originally from England. Even after 20 years, she still has her British accent. Thanks for the comment Buddy!
Estoy cambiando el kit de correa de distribución de un Chevrolet Optra el mismo del vídeo .al darle Jiro al motor la correa se destenciona al darle Jiro al motor y el patín automático se tenciono todo solo y por este motivo al mecánico anterior le partió 3 patines automáticos le cambió la bomba de agua la pregunta es será q el patín está saliendo malo
My trunk indicator on the dashboard says trunk is open but it's not. Keeps draining the battery. My wife was cleaning the car and she said she may have pulled some wiring under the driver seat. I did not see any broken wires. Please help . 2006 Suzuki forenza
If you have any broken wires either on the positive or negative side, then your light would not come on. So, it's not a broken wire. The most likely cause is your trunk door latch switch contact is always staying closed. Check this item to be sure that it's not closed all the time. The switch should open when you close the trunk and close when you open the trunk. The wire colors for this switch should be Black and Pink/Black. Here are two links for free wiring diagrams. www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-forenza-reno-forum/54175-links-reno-forenza-service-manuals.html www.bbbind.com/tech_database.html I used this site to look up the circuit and color coding.
Hopefully someone could help me out here. I put everything back together exactly as should be, but now harmonic balancer does not line up with other pulleys. Belt rubs against tensioner, tearing up belt. All other pulleys are aligned. Just not balancer, I even replaced harmonic balancer just in case that was issue, n related tensioner, still can't figure out why it's a 1/2" off. Please help been fighting this for a long time.
HELLO I INSTALLED MY TIMING BELT LIKE 11,000 MILES AGO. I ALSO REPLACED MYHEAD GASKET. EVERYTHNG SEEMS TO WORK FINE BUT I HAVE A VALVE COVER GASKET LEAK. TO BE HONEST I CHEAPED OUT ON THAT ONE. DID NOT BUY THE FELPRO VALVE COVER GASKET. SO I REALIZED I WAS LEAKING FROM THE RIGHT SIDE OF MY VALVE COVER GASKET STANDING IN FRONT OF MY CAR IN OTHER WORDS DRIVER SIDE. THERE IS 2 SEMICIRCLES WHERE THE OIL IS LEAKING FROM.I OPENED MY COVER UP AND PUT GASKET SEALER BUT IT GOT WORST. I AM INSTALLING A FELPRO VALVE COVER GASKET NOW.
th-cam.com/video/VQVimFxRbms/w-d-xo.html Help please. I took your advise and changed my head and the old one had several bent valves. I replaced with a used one. Didn't have the money for a valve job but they looked great. Anyway got it back together and it's not running right. It revs up and runs really ruff. When it idles down it starts backfiring. The video link at the top is right after a camshaft sensor replacement. Also all the spark plugs have turned black and are only a month old. Thanks for any help.
It looks like your timing is correct and at this point, I would do a compression check. With the backfiring, it usually points to a timing issue or a valve sealing issue. Since your timing looks okay, I would focus on the head that you bought. If the compression test shows a bad cylinder, then you can do a leak-down test to see where the air is going. Good luck on what you find!
Thank you Giz! Just remember that when you do this job, take your time, look back over your work and never rush yourself to where you feel uncomfortable. When you're satisfied with every step as you progress along, you'll know in the end, you've done a great job! Thanks again Giz...
That's the most detailed explanation of a timing belt tensioner installation I've ever found. Good job!
Thanks for responding. I knew something was off and reviewed your video again. I confirmed all the parts and timing on the top end but noted I have two marks on the crank pully, a green one on the inside and a very light white one on the very outside edge, slightly embosssed. I remember your white paper behind yours and realized I had been using the green mark. Turns over great and now runs well. Thank you so much for the great teaching. S
Great job Steve!!!! I was really worried about you about maybe having the cams in backwards. I could only go by what you told me that everything was in time and the valves weren't bent. Glad to hear that you saw the correct timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket and got your vehicle running great. You're quite welcomed and always glad to help!
Thank you for being so detailed. I am a kustom car painter but turn wrenches for this little ol' guy. Never done timing belt before. I didn't mind it at all.. You guys always make us girls look so smart ! Thankyou
Hi Lynn and glad the videos helped you out! Have a great weekend!
Very very good video.
Stuzman52 presented a very detailed video covering many areas where many mechanics are afraid to work on.
Congratulations Stuzman52.
+Nyck461 Thank you very much and glad to hear that you liked the video(s). Take care...
You'll be okay Bob with the timing belt change. Don't worry! If this is your first time, it is a little scary, but as I've said before, DO NOT rush yourself. Take your time, double check over each step that you do and you'll see that it's really a easy job. Keep us posted and like I said, holler out if you're not sure about something.
Ok I almost missed some of your replies, until I seen they continued from one another.Thanks for the quick responses! VERY HELPFUL ! ! !
Hi J diaz, I believe you mean the camshaft cover. There are three openings or tubes as you may call them. All of these openings are used for ventilation of bypass gases and fresh air intake for this process. On cleaning the cover, I let the cover sit in mineral spirits for several hours which should at least loosen any loose debris. Then I took an air hose and blowed everything dry including the openings that you mention. Hope that helps you. Thanks for watching!
Thank you. Your knowledge and videos are giving me that extra courage to tackle this project on my suzuki reno 2007. Same engine as the Forenza.
Angel, I tried to make these videos as detailed as possible so that anyone with a mechanical background could handle this job. I'm sure that you won't have any problem with your repair. The only advice that I can give you as I have to others is not to rush this job. Watching the details is very important and one mistake could take you back to the beginning. So, take your time and with each step through the project, don't go to the next step until you're very sure of what you've done and that you're satisfied with it. Sounds, like you're going to do a GREAT job and thank you for your comments on the videos.
I have spent the past several days following your installation videos. They have been a great benefit for my situation! Thank you! I am still not finished though as I ran into a problem. When replacing the timing belt idler pulleys, the left pulley's bolt released from the block instead of the nut loosening. So now I have the old pulley with the bolt out from the block and I do not not how to loosen the nut from the pulley. Our local Suzuki parts house does not have the bolt (back ordered.)
Hi Darren, you were correct the first time when you mentioned that the nut was a bronze or copper colored nut. Take a look at this video at timeline starting at 23:45 and you can see. And this nut should easily screw down on that bolt. I could screw the nut onto the bolt all the way down with my fingers. They probably gave you the wrong nut which probaby has a different pitch from your bolt. Be cautious with this. Do you have a thread gauge where you can measure the threads of the bolt and nut?
I like your explanation. It is so detailed. You are good. God bless your efforts.
Thank you very much and you have a blessed day yourself!
Wow, that's unbelievable Darren. It sure is good that you caught a small detail like this. Yes, it sounds like the nut maybe fused to the bolt for some reason. Did you get a new nut to go along with your bolt? Really good catch on that one Darren. Sounds to me like you're doing a great job on this one. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the tip on installing belt makes it a lot easier, never to old to learn something new.
Used it today to finish 07 forenza head job due to broken timing belt.
Total of 10 bent valve 600.00 our cost on head job from machine shop
No problem Wayne and glad to help. And you're right, even at my age, it's always something new to learn. Yeah, the machine shop work was about 550.00 for myself, so it sounds like it's right on target for your machine shop. I see that you're in NC also as myself. Glad to see another North Carolina resident. Take care Wayne and try not working too hard...
Hi Ray and I appreciate you taking the time to watch the videos. The only component that will take up the slack on the intake side would the tensioner. If you had missed a tooth on the belt while routing the belt around the sprockets and then when you tightened the tensioner, it's possible that the belt will jump and then that would give you extra slack in the belt. Of course, with either of these conditions, the timing would be off. And it's possible Ray that the valves could be bent.
Very Good videos! Right to the point THANKS for such a helpful lesson!!!!!
ir, you saved me a day of nagging.... vice grips are flippin brilliant!
Greg Campbell Glad to help out Greg!
#$%^&* going for try #5
Hi Billy Bob! In my case Bob, it really came from the belt being torn apart because the tensioner bolt became loose. In your case, the belt isn't broken. Turn the crank clockwise until the mark on the crank is lined up with the notch AND the camshaft sprocket marks are lined up with the notches on the camshaft cover. Take a look at the cylinder leak down test video. I show all the marks lined up very well in that video. Once ALL the marks are lined up, clamp the cam sprockets together cont)...
Hi David. I have no idea if the tension is correct on your belt. Just look at this video and follow the procedure. Get the pointer of the tensioner in its slot. Rotate the crank around and see if it stays put. It's all in this video. I don't see no video that you posted.
I fallowed every step and still wasn’t able to installed the timing belt right but I learned a great deal. Thanks for your videos.
Hopefully Alegandro you got it figured out of why you couldn't get the belt installed. Glad you liked the videos!
stuzman thanks for your reply. Looking forward to see more of your videos.
Hey Darren, do you have a savage yard around you nearby. If it was me, I would see if they had a Forenza out there and just go get the nut.
Hi Darren, Having the left bolt to unscrew itself out of the block shouldn't have happened because that bolt is torqued to 41 ft-lbs and the nut for the idler is at 18 ft-lbs. Good that you caught this! Okay, take a look at this video at timeline 11:47 and you will see the smooth shank of this bolt. Put a pair of channel locks on it to secure it and then take the nut off. Sounds like someone really TIGHTENED that nut up too much. That should get you going! Let's us know how it goes.
Yes, I ordered the nut as well. On my way now to work on it! The nut seems to be made of the same material, so my idea of not being the right one must be wrong. The new one is also hard to thread onto the bolt, so who knows. :-)
very nicely explained, one of the best ones i have seen, GOD bless you and for your help. keep the good work...
Thank you very much Leonardo for the kind remarks and I'm glad that you liked the videos. Take care and hope all of your repairs are successful.
the head cover has a tube that goes to the intake, (filter?) does it has to be cleaned? please explain what function does it has. THANK YOU SO MUCH, G. bless you
Thanks for videos,they were very detailed.I actually just replaced a timing belt on an 07 forenza and Im not sure what exactly happened but after I started the car it ran fine so I reinstalled all the covers and started it again but it began to make a noise so I shut it off and found the intake side extremly loose. Any thoughts on this as to why. Im pretty sure it has bent vaves now but not sure why.Any help would be appreciated.
best video about repair engines !!!
russsboy russsboy
You are an awesome teacher, thank you.
Thank you very much Denise!
as I show in this video. The video here will show you the step by step procedure. Once you get the belt on, turn the crank over at LEAST two turns and then check ALL your marks. They should all be just like in the beginning. You WILL know for sure if it is out by one tooth. Look at the marks before and then look at them again after the belt is on. You won't have any problem knowing if you're out a tooth or so. Hope that helps you, and again, if you have any questions, holler out!
The water pump that came with the timing belt kit looks a little different then the one you have in the video, but not by much. I am not really sure if the water pump is not in correctly or maybe I am doing something wrong with the tension windings.
I just want to say THANK YOU excellent videos you sabe me. Gracias Amigo
Always glad to help and good to hear all went well. Take care...
Go ahead and get the belt back on and in time, but don't crank the engine as you may do more damage. Get each piston up on TDC, compression and put some air in there. If you haven't taken a look, go back to my video "Suzuki Cylinder Leak Down Test". I explain everything in detail in this video to see if your valves are bent. Let me know what you find out Ray, and I sure hope you don't have any valves bent.
Thank you very much 1allen704, and I'm glad that I could help you out.
Thanks Dave, I appreciate the kind words. I've seen a lot of stuff out there on tensioners, but never really detailed. It took a little while to get the staging set, but I wanted it to be as detailed as possible. I'm trying to shoot these videos with beginners in mind who want to work on their cars, and I try to anticipate what questions they would wonder about. So, I took out any guess work of any concerns that they may have. Thanks again Dave for watching!
You are installing the Valve cover. Not the head..
Great video! is this the same for a 1999 isuzu 2.2 rodeo? thank you.
I'm not really sure ma sc if this is the same for a 1999 Isuzu. My guess is that the engines are different.
And to ensure that this doesn't happen as far as a belt breaking and bending valves is simple. Change the belt when it's scheduled for at 60,000 miles. 55,000 wouldn't hurt. And you can do an inspection of the timing components every 30,000 miles to make sure there is no coolant or oil leakage as that will really kill a belt and shorten its life. And of course, a visual inspection of the belt to be sure that it's not fraying, etc.
Finaaally!!!!!!! Somebody who answered my question. Thank you youtuber.
Hey Armandao, not sure what your question was, but always glad to help...
Hi pedropct...You're right, you've got a crazy vehicle there. To tell you the truth, at this point I'm not sure what's going on. Which cylinder is getting oil, or is it all of them? Did a compression check show anything?
I could not get the nut to release from the bolt even by putting it into a vise and putting a impact gun to it! Of course, after this the bolt is no good, but I ordered a new one from the parts house. I have no idea why this nut was so tight. I am not sure if this nut was original? It looks to be made of some sort of copper or brass looking material! Maybe it had fused to the bolt?
How do you ensure something like this does not happen? I plan to do my timing belt soon, and I totally want to avoid something like this from happening. How do I know for sure that I am not missing a tooth?
Terry, I had to do this twice on my forenza, used your videos heavily each time. thank you. my question, is there a washer on the tensioner bolt?
+Mike King Glad to hear Mike the videos were helpful. I really can't remember if there was a washer or not on the tensioner bolt since it was awhile back. You should be able to take a look at the video of where I disassemble it and should be able to tell from there.
Hello again. where can i get that head gasket kit that you are using? the perma torque gasket. Thanks again.
Hi Angel. Most of the parts came from www.rockauto.com The head gasket set that I used which covers 2004-2008 Suzuki Forenza is Fel-Pro HS26317PT and costs $74.99. Keep in mind that this gasket set does not include the EGR gasket. Be sure to pick up some head bolts also. The ones that I used for my 2006 Suzuki Forenza were also Fel-Pro and its number is ES729061 and it costs $26.79. Be sure to select your year, make, model, etc. as I'm only using these numbers as a guide to what I used. Your numbers may be the same if your year is like mine. Generic parts like spark plugs, wires, coolant, air filter, oil, oil filter, etc. I just picked up at my local auto store. Hope that helps you out Angel and good luck with your repair.
Angel, also here is a link to a PDF file from Fel-Pro about head gaskets that you may find useful. www.fme-cat.com/Docs/1425.pdf
I seem to have a problem with getting the arrow of the tensioner into the proper spot. I put the bolt in the center of the tensioner and tighten then loosen. Then I am rotating the center piece clockwise. I had someone look at the arrow. while I did this and it appears as the arrow is hitting the water pump sprocket and stopping the arrow from moving. Continued. . . .
Thank you for watching the videos!
Thanks Roman, I appreciate it.
Great video! I have a question tho, when I try to line up the arrows on the camshaft sprocket, the left arrow is pointing at about a 1 o'clock and the right arrow is about 1/2 an inch to the right. I try to move it, but it goes back to the same position. Seems like they only do a quarter turn. How do I adjust the cam sprockets so that they can point up? I would really appreciate you help and guidance, please. Thanks and hope to hear from you. Have a great day.
Hi Mick...When I did the head job and timing belt change on the Forenza, I remember that I didn't have to move the intake camshaft at all as its mark was pretty darn close to being straight up. Just make sure that there isn't another mark that you're looking at. The exhaust camshaft was as you mentioned being a little to the right. I assume that you don't have any issues with valves, that the belt didn't break etc. If you're sure all of that is okay, get a helper to move one of the cam sprockets into alignment and then you'll adjust the other cam sprocket. Of course, you'll need two ratchets and two Torx bits. When you have both sprockets in alignment, then clamp them together with a pair of vise grips. I show this in one of the videos. Just remember, you don't have to put a lot of force on the vise grips. Just enough to keep them from moving. Once you get the sprockets in place, start routing the belt with the vise grips in place. Then when you get the belt tensioned, remove the vise grips and rotate the crankshaft at least two revolutions and see if the mark on the crank sprocket and two cam sprockets stay aligned. Hope that helps you out and you have a good day too.
stuzman52 hey stuzman, thanks for the tips. I will try one more time. Thanks again.
MovesLike MickJagger No problem...just take your time to be sure of those marks before you crank it up and you'll be okay.
I found when I installed the gates belt / pump kit on my Chevrolet optra that the tensioner 6mm hole striped real easy. I got the pointer aligned in the "new" position and then torqued the tensioner bolt. I noticed though while manually turning the crankshaft when it was done that the pointer would bounce between the new and used marks on the tensioner. I am guessing that it is normal because tensioners have to to have some flex in them? The belt is tight and it drives just fine.
Hi Buchanan. Yes, that is correct. The tensioner will move around as you're turning the crankshaft and is normal. I mentioned this in one of the videos, but I can't remember which one. The idea is that you want the tensioner to be at the new mark once the belt is not turning. Sounds like you did a pretty good job.
stuzman52 Thank you, It was alot easier with my buddy helping me install it. Couldn't imagine trying to do it by yourself, trying to align everything without two sets of hands and keeping an eye on the timing marks. Thanks for the info I was just worried it wasn't locked in properly because the needle was moving but yes it was in the "New" position when all the timing marks were lined up. It was just annoying because the 6mm Allen hole striped and we had to set the final clocking of the tensioner in place with a straight screwdriver instead of a 6mm Allen wrench. There isn't much depth for the Allen head to sit in so I think that is what caused it to strip.
Glad to hear that you got it all worked out even with the stripping. Thank you for the comment.
HI I MERRY CHRISTMAS TO YOU TERRY. I HAVE A DOUBT ABOUT HOW LOOSE THE TIMING BELST SHOULD GET AFTER SAY SOME MILES OF USE. I MEAN THE BELT WILL STRETCH RIGHT!? SO THE POINTER OF MY TENSIONER SHOULD BE IN THE SAME POSITION IN LEFT IT WHEN I INSTALLED IT? THANKS AGAIN
Merry Christmas to you also Pedro. According to timing belt manufacturers, they say that timing belts don't stretch because of the new materials in them. Yes, your tensioner should stay put in the notch until the next belt change.
hey mister Pike, so I thought this timing belt was going to be a walk in the park but it's getting more difficult than I expected. the exhaust cam has a tendency to spring back so I use the same method you showed in your video. two issues:
1- the tensioner needle always moves back though I tightened it firmly.
2- both cams end up one tooth shy of the marks on the valve cover.
what do you think I'm doing wrong here?
The tensioner is tricky to adjust to get the pointer inside the notch, but it can be done. It took me several tries as you saw in the video. Don't worry about the pointer moving if you're talking about as the engine is being turned over by hand. That is normal. The key is you want the pointer to be inside the notch once you've rotated the engine at least two revolutions. If you're starting with the marks on the sprockets correctly, you should end up with them on the same marks on the valve cover. Not sure what your issue is. Also, don't forget about the crankshaft mark as that's got to be lined up too along with the cam sprocket marks. Keep at it and I'm sure you'll get it :)
Original Mechanic (TH-camr) did a three part video series for changing the timing belt change on the same or very similar engine (Daewoo). Here is a link to his first video th-cam.com/video/DOBXIZN8TxQ/w-d-xo.html Also, he did a write up for the procedure which may help too. That's located here www.originalmechanic.com/2014/03/how-to-replace-front-crankshaft-seal.html Hopefully, that will give you some insight...
Thank you I'm going to check it out right now. I'll report back to you
I have a question. I remember you mentioning in a previous video that the crankshaft rotates two full times. The markes are lined up correctly but how do I know which rotation it is in (1st or 2nd), if that makes any sense. My timing belt broke on me on the highway and bent 4 valves and I have had all that repaired but now Im not sure if it is in the right rotation. Or does it not matter as long as it is aligned right?
+JacobyLuver09 Jacob, it does not matter. Just make sure all of your timing marks are aligned and you will be good to go.
+stuzman52 thank you so much for these videos. You have no idea how helpful they are!
+JacobyLuver09 Glad to hear that the videos are helpful. Just take your time on your project as you don't want to go back in there again. And when you go faster than you feel comfortable, then usually something bad is going to happen in the end. Good luck on your project!
Hey Terry, I'm installing the timing belt and everything lines up good but when I rotate the engine, the tensioner keeps moving around and I have to start over again. I"ve tightened the bolt more than 18 ft lbs but the backing plate that has the tang keeps moving. I made sure the tang is between the notches like you pointed out but the thing keeps moving. I hope the new tensioner is not bad. Any ideas?
+Allen Riddle Hey Allen...not quite sure if I understand what you're saying. The pointer on the tensioner will move when you turn the crank. This is all normal. You want the pointer to stay inside the notch when you finish turning the crank. Is that what you're saying? And you shouldn't need to turn the bolt more than 18 ft-lbs.
+stuzman52 Thanks for the quick reply. I think I'm ok now. I had to reset the tensioner pointer 4 times before it finally stayed where it was supposed to. I'm guessing the belt tracking & other factors kept moving it. I thought maybe the tensioner was bad. I've cycled the engine 4 more times and the pointer stays put now so I should be ok. Timing marks are on the money also!
Sounds good Allen and glad to hear that you got it all figured out!
Sir, Do we really to take out crankshaft pulley for timing belt installation??
Hi Si. The service manual call for it to be removed. I can't remember, but I think it has to be removed to get the timing belt cover off past the pulley. If you see where you can remove the cover without removing the pulley, then give it a try. It's only four small bolts holding on, so it's not really a big deal to remove.
Hi Terry, I am having g a problem with the tentioner. I can not get the little dial to move where it needs to go. It did twice but when I released the timing gears, it went back. I cant get it to move forward. The center piece will tighten, but then loosen again. Do you know what I'm doing wrong by chance?
I assume that you're tightening the bolt once you get the pointer where it needs. If so, there has been talk about the water pump being an issue. Be sure that the water pump is fully turned clockwise facing the engine before tightening its bolts. If that doesn't work, then you may want to carefully inspect any differences between the old water pump and the new one. I'm assuming that you're replacing it also.
Hi Terry. I was trying to do the way the video was, but as it turns out, the 6mm pointer, I was thinking it should be in the same place as yours. That was my problem. Once I turned it more, which ended up being towards the lower right side instead. All the slack went away and the pointer is correct now. Think I must have been tired. Just couldnt get past it. Thankyou for getting back to me. I did replace water pump too. I ordered a kit initially after watching the videos.
Great video and camera work. Need your help with my 2005 forenza 2.0. I removed and re-installed the oil pan, oil pump, new water pump, and had head resurfaced and changed gaskets. Got things together and crank alone turns over easily, but when testing with timing belt, crankshaft turns 1/2 turn and stops. I check timing marks, and got the intake/exhast cam gears positioned same as video. Could I have the cams switched? Is there ID on the cams for intake/exhast? Any ideas? Thanks
Let's review Steve. Forgetting about the bottom end of the engine, it sounds like you had a head gasket issue with no bent valves. You put everything back together and all the timing marks line up. So, what's left? If you're running into some hard resistance with the crank and it won't budge but 1/2 turn, then yes, you've got something wrong. Having the cams reversed could definitely create your problem as the valves could be open when the piston is at the top. I don't recall any ID on the camshafts, but that's not to say there isn't something on them. I never looked that close because as you may know in one of the videos when I removed them, I wrapped them up in Saran wrap and then marked on the wrapping intake and exhaust. My best advice is to take a close look at the video of where I install the camshafts with the timing marks aligned. In that video you will be looking at the cam lobes of both camshafts to see if there is any difference in their location compared to yours when all the timing marks are aligned. Good luck and hope you find the issue.
Terry,
Thank you again. Need a bit more help. Car runs well and after 20 minute warm up and short drive, oil start leaking from the area just below the crank pully. After un-bolting the large crank pully and serpentine belt, I started engine and saw oil pouring out of timing cover just below the crank. I removed and replaced the oil pan and oil pump and main front seal, but made mistake by installing crank pully before the rear timing cover and had trouble removing the crank pully, possibly damaging it. Can I change the seal from the front or do I need to remove the oil pump? Can I remove and replace oil pump without removing oli pan? S
Steve, you don't need to remove the oil pump to replace the front crankshaft seal. A blind seal tool remover will make the job a lot easier. You can see it here....
www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Shaft-Type-Puller/dp/B000FPYW4K
To see the tool in action, check out Brian's video here...
Tool Review Lisle 58430 Blind Seal Puller
And to see another person replacing the same exact seal as on your engine, but not using the tool, check him out here....
How to replace a leaking oil seal
Good luck...
Terry! Awesome videos, I have been able to replace valves in my 2002 Daewoo Leganza with a very similar engine because of your instructions. However, after replacing the water pump, left idler and tensioner pulley I can not get the necessary slack out of the timing belt. As I rotate the crank with the belt on and the tensioner set as tight is it can be the belt skips a tooth or two on the cam sprockets. I'm thinking maybe the new water pump could be slightly different? I ordered it off Rock Auto, from Auto 7 part # 3120172. Other than that I don't know what else could cause the belt to have too much slack... Any ideas? Even when I I adjust the tensioner pulley there is no deflection in the needle at all. I think my next step will be to install the old pump and see if that takes out any slack in the belt. Thanks in advance!
Thanks T.J. on the comments for the videos. I've heard other folks having the same issue and it turned out that there was some difference between the old and new water pump. Try the old pump as a test to see if you can get the slack out of the belt. I'm pretty sure that is what your issue is.
stuzman52 Turns out I didn't have the water pump situated in the right position... Rookie mistake. Belt went on and everything lines up well now! Only problem I'm having now is after installing everything, I'm getting the engine to crank very slowly without starting. Seems like I'm not getting any fuel or possibly no spark, maybe a crank position sensor problem? I'll do some more troubleshooting and get back to you.
I would be going after why the engine is turning over slowly. Is the battery okay? Battery cables, terminals, etc. Did the car start fine before the job? Unless you get the engine turning over fast enough, I wouldn't worry about the fuel and spark at this point.
how many nm do you tighten the water pump?
The foot/lbs was shown at time line of 9:16. It's 18 ft/lbs or 216 inch/lbs or 24.4 Newtons.
I might as well ask here, and in your 4 part video on the timing belt for others. Which rebuild kit did you go with, AC delco, Gates, Goodyear? some people have been having problems with the Gates water pump on the Suzuki-Forums(com)., going bad prematurely, it get the belt wet and BOOM!
looking at the video @ 6:30ish, it appears you went with the Gates KIT.
Yes, I went with the Gates kit and can only say from my experience that after 15,000 miles the car ran fine with no issues. I sold the car afterwards. Which manufacturer did you find that has a better water pump?
Not necessarily better, but it seems people are having better luck with AC Delco's kit.
Thanks for the tip silver.
i don't remember if i torque the head bolts 3 times at 90 degrees. will it hurt to do it one more time? thanks.
Angel, I'm not going to recommend that you turn the bolts another 90 degrees. What I will recommend is that you get another head gasket, another set of head bolts and start over. You're not to far in the process and why chance it. Even if the bolts are turned three times, turning them another 90 degrees will weaken the bolts. Do you want to take that chance and then later, you have a blown head gasket? Just chalk this one up that you want forget the next time. As a reminder, put a small amount of paint on the bolt. Then put another mark 270 degrees away from the paint mark on the bolt. That can serve as your reminder of where you're at. Good luck on your repair.
What can be the cost of cutting the timing belt please
hey, me and my dad are having trouble getting the tensioner to tighten, any suggestions on how to get it to tighten we keep turning the 6mm Allan wrench but it doesn't tighten the tensioner
it just goes back and forwards and doesn't seem to tightenplease help!!!
JD123 some people have mentioned that the water pump needs to be turned fully clockwise facing the front of the engine and then tighten the water pump bolts. If still no joy, take the pump off and compare with old pump.
Thankyou we will try that out now!
Hey this is jdm123 on a different TH-cam account. Thank you so much for your help me and my dad got the old water pump back on and it worked just fine!
Glad to hear that it all worked out fine for you and your Dad!
Hi Stuzman I have a problem I replaced timing belt head when I got it all together the tensioner kept moving out of place so I replaced that also now got everything back together got he tensioner to maybe a little over 18ft lbs of torque and when I turn engine with my ratchet the tensioner arrow moves back and forth i made sure the tab on the tensioner went into the correct slot is it supposed to do thaT
Lucas Leander Nevermind even though I watched your video multiple times i watched it again and you were all over my problem thanks for covering all the bases
Lucas Leander Not to worry Lucas...when you're turning the crankshaft, it's normal for the pointer to move around slightly as the belt is moving. The key is to have the pointer in the slot at rest. Good to see that you got it figured out from your other posting.
pedropct, are you sure the oil is coming from inside the cylinder? I have a similar problem but I think my oil is coming from the spark plug shaft. Once the spark plug is removed, the oil then drains into the cylinder.
Hey stuzman, when I install the timing belt and everything is aligned. I did what you did at the end of this video to see that everything lines up however the crankshaft pulley is very hard to rotate and I do not want to force it. Is this normal or is something wrong?
You never mentioned if the timing belt broke and if so, you're just installing a new belt. If the belt broke, you will have bent valves which can prevent the crank from turning over. If your belt didn't break and you're just replacing it for routine maintenance, it's normal to feel a little resistance while during the crank because the valves on some cylinders will be closed and you would be feeling the resistance of pistons coming up on their compression stroke. So, did your timing belt break?
stuzman yes, my timing belt broke and I had bent valves so I had the valves replaced and head resurfaced.
I know this is a old video and i'm unsure if you still reply on this however
When I get the cams and crank to total dead center, tighten the tensioner properly & everything is torqued to spec, it looks perfect, however, when I rotate the engine by hand a full rotation, the crank ends up being a few teeth off? I'm unsure how this is even possible as it's all tight with extremely little slack (can slightly bend when i touch it but can't move over any teeth with the amount of slack it has just like yours)
How can i...fix this? Or avoid it? I loosened the tensioner, took the belt off along with the left idler pulley, put it all back together, tightened to spec at TDC, hand rotated, and boom, not centered again. In your video you do it flawlessly and it all works perfect, guess i'm just a bit lost / confused on what i'm doing wrong, any information helps, thanks.
Hi Coventix! Turn the crank TWO revolutions and you should see that all of your marks will align on the crankshaft and the two camshafts. Have a great day!
@@stuzman52 Yes, I have done that. The camshaft itself comes...out of TDC after the two revolutions (1 full rotation). Cams are still perfect but crank will not stay on TDC
@@Coventix The only thing that I can think of is that when you tighten the tensioner is that the crank moves a little off from where you set it. If this is the case, maybe you can shift the crank a little so that when you tighten the tensioner, the crank comes back into alignment. If that's not the case, I really don't know why the crank is getting off.
@@stuzman52 Update/fix for those with the same problem.
I rotated the crankshaft off of dead center, white mark a bit towards the right, then routed the belt around both cams, crank & tensioner. (cams clamped)
I then rotated the crank back to dead center with the belt partially on removing all slack from the right side, pulled the belt to the water pump & around the left idler, installed left idler, tightened tensioner properly, rotated engine, perfect TDC still.
@@Coventix Glad to hear that you got your timing marks aligned and all went well. Your comment should help a lot of folks out there who may participate this issue. Have a great day!
Is there a groove in the crankshaft where the white mark is, my crankshaft does not have that mark, the only thing mine has is a real tiny groove.
It's best Gene to use the mark on the crankshaft pulley for alignment.
@@stuzman52 what mark, the only thing i have is a groove that was cut when it was manufactured.
@@generuss8291 We're probably talking about the same thing. It should be a small cut across the crankshaft pulley. It's been quite awhile since I did this job, but I'm sure that it's shown in the video. Did you see it in there?
@@stuzman52 i barely able to see it, thats why i asked, it is just big enough to put your finger nail in it.
@@generuss8291 Yes, that does sound like it as it is small. If you haven't seen the video, just make sure it looks like what I describe in the video. But it sounds like you're on the right mark.
I also have one more question. When I got my car back from the local shop they gave me my car with all bolts to everything in the back seat. we have found the home for everything exept for one bolt that has a small hole in the top that is a 10mm star head, there some thread in it with a hole in a steam that is about 3/4 of an inch. Is there anyway that I can send you a picture of it? I cannot find a picture of it online or anything.
+JacobyLuver09 You can send it to stuzman52@gmail.com but I'm not sure if I'll be able to identify it. So, someone else started the work and then gave it back over to you.
+stuzman52 I will send it in a minute. My timing belt broke the day before I was supposed to leave town and I usually do all the work myself but we ended up taking it to a shop and once they figured out that the valves were bent they said they pretty much wouldn't do anything with it other than send it to a head shop. they still charged me for some work but they gave me my car back in pieces with a bunch of bolts and parts laying in my backseat. it was very odd that they did that but we just pushed it back to my place to work on it.
+JacobyLuver09 Forgive my language, but fucking unbelievable the shop did that. And that's why I do all the work on my own vehicles too, even if it means rebuilding automatic transmissions which I have done. It's good that you got most of those bolts figured out. You did get new head bolts? Not sure I can help on that bolt that you've got as I don't have the car or service manual as I sold the car about two years ago.
+stuzman52 I was suprised that they did that. They also charged me $90 for just the belt which I though was high. There is an online manual that is free. I saw you have posted it before. lacetti.com.ua/chevy-man/EN/documents/Nubira-Lacetti/start_Nubira-Lacetti.html. this has helped me a lot but I still cant find anything.
+stuzman52 any yes I replaced the head bolts and all that good stuff. i believe if you are going to do something, do it right.
does it matter which way the water pump goes on
Just make sure that when you install it that you rotate it fully clockwise until it hits the stops. Then tighten it down in that position. Otherwise, you may have an issue when tensioning the timing belt.
Hello!
I have a question about belt tensioner. I did everything as you recommend but the pointer did return to the previously set position when timing marks were again matched! I'm thinking it is normal for this type of tensioner. The belt is not slack whatever keep tension. Thanks
Andrii Averianov i'm not quite sure what your question is but it sounds like everything is OK from the way you are explaining it. If not let me know!
I lined up tensioner's pointer with notch then I turned over crankshaft few times and notices that pointer moved left away from notch . But belt still keep tension.Is it ok or needs to readjust tensioner again ?
Andrii Averianov it's normal for the pointer to move around when you're turning the crank shaft. As long as the pointer stays within the notch after you stop turning the crank shaft, it's OK. It sounds like you're good to go
Hello. Great videos! I've got a question. I just replaced belt because of a broke tensioner bolt. Car just died driving 70 mph. After reinstalling the car turns over but wont fire up. No clicking or abnormal sounds just wont start. I got all the marks lined up but can something be off? If it takes 2 crank rotations to equal 1 cam could one be 180 degree off? Or do you think I have bad valves even though it sounds normal? thanks for any help and the great videos!
clint morten When that belt broke at 70 miles an hour, I can guarantee that you have bent valves. I’m sure your marks are fine. Time to do a leak down test as I show in the first video of this serious. Good luck on your repair. 😩
whould you know how to change oil pump?
Never looked into that Mike, but here is a manual for the car which should help. Although, it's for a different model, the engine should be the same. lacetti.com.ua/chevy-man/EN/documents/Nubira-Lacetti/start_Nubira-Lacetti.html
Does the amigo an forenza have a pcv valve ?lf not what does it have ?an where is it at
It's my understanding the the Forenza doesn't have a PCV valve. There is a small passageway that's molded in the camshaft cover to direct the blowby gasses into the vacuum through a vacuum hose attached to the camshaft cover. There's always baffles under the camshaft cover to help separate the oil and vapors.
where can i find torque specs on this engine?
Thanks,
Angel
Try this link angel... lacetti.com.ua/chevy-man/EN/documents/Nubira-Lacetti/start_Nubira-Lacetti.html
after replacing tht head gasket on my 2005 suzuki forenza i am geting water in all foor cylinders. can you help
Rodney, did you check for flatness of the head? That's the only thing that I can think of. And did you have any overheating issue? If so, you may have a warped head. That's all I can think of at the moment.
When my tensioner pulley is installed and I rotate the tab on the front, the pointer doesn't turn or move. Is there a trick to this? Am I missing something?
The only thing that I can think of is that the tensioner has to be pressing on the belt. If there is any kind of slack, the tensioner pointer will never move.
The belt was on, and we were trying to take the slack out of it with the tensioner, but the pointer wasn't moving. By the way, you have an excellent series of very detailed videos!
Hi t0. What other thing that I thought about later was someone who was having a similar problem. It turns out that his water pump was slightly different from his original one. The sprocket on the new pump was in a different location than the old pump. He put the old water pump back on, and he found that the tensioner's pointer would move because it was pressing on the belt. So, if you replaced the water pump, take a look at your old one and compare it to your new one. Hopefully, that should help you out if you did replace the pump. And thank you for the comment on the videos as I appreciate it. Take care t0...
OK so doing this full job here and I can not get that darn timing belt on I can have taken the pulley off as instructed and I can not get that sucker on there please let me know. what my problem is
HELP - I have reached part 15 of head install. The timing belt is installed. When I tried to test it, the crankshaft jammed and would not turn any further after one and about 1/4th revolutions. What did I do wrong. I turned the engine over when cleaning to raise the front two pistions to TDC to clean. I did not turn them to their positions. When I first installed the cams they tighened down fine. What would Stuzman Do?
Hi Fred, you didn't say what your initial issue was. Did you have bent valves, head gasket issue, etc.? If you're sure all of the valves are okay, did you make sure that all the timing marks are okay? Can't think of anything else at the moment.
stuzman52 The original prob was a bad head gaskent....white smoke out of exhaust.. Thus, replacing the head gasket is the build. All the marks were in sync. I'm thinking right now that I need start all over I will cylcle the enging back to where I first took off the heads and rebuild from there. I am have a hard time with abstract thinking regarding the engine, crank, valves and cam cycles and how the cams would find correctly regarding where the pistons are, etc....Is there a website with this info?
Fred Holloway I'm sure there are some website out there Fred as you may just do a Google search and see what you come up with. If all of your marks are synced up and the valves aren't bent, you should be able to rotate the crank. Are you sure that you're not feeling resistance or can you definitely feel a spot where it just won't budge? Not sure what to tell you Fred on that.
stuzman52 I couldn't budge it with my breaker bar and it seems like it it locked up against something hard. I will do some more research on it. I will let you know what the proble is, if and when. Thanks for you help. I really really appreaciate your videos.
Fred Holloway Found what I need on Wiki - @ en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Internal_combustion_engine
hi i just finished installing my timing belt. i went ahead to turn from the crankshaft and does not move. it only moves some degrees then it gets stuck. please any suggestions? thanks!
Well handsum. That's not a good sign. Didn't you pull the head on this? If so, I'm sure that all the valves are okay. And I assume that you have the timing correct. If not, there's your problem. If so, try this. Take the belt back off and then make sure that the cam sprockets are aligned to their marks. Clamp them together with the vise grips. See if the crank will move then. If so, turn the crank 90 degrees either direction. This will put all the pistons in the middle of their cylinders. Now go back to the cam sprockets and take the vise grips off. See if you can turn each cam and see if there are any bindings going on. You don't have to worry about the valves hitting the pistons now because they're down in the middle of the cylinders. See where that leads you.
hello i did that before installing the belt. i mean the camshafts turn freelly and also the crankshaft. also the timing marks are aligned. this is very strange. can this be caused by a misalighment on the belt? i mean when i put the left idler the belt got little misaligned at the end where it connects to the intake gear.
Sounds like you've got a bind there some where. As you've mentioned, since all is turning fine, make sure all your idlers, water pump, etc. turn okay. Other than that, I can't think of anything else. Sounds like you're pretty close to finding your trouble. Keep at it handsum, I'm sure you're see what's going on.
stuzman52 ok i will. i greatly thank you for your quick help. god bless you!
no problem handsum. Let me know what you find out as you've got to be very close.
It seems you forget to install the plastic rear timing plate before you installed the cam sprocket pulleys.
It's probably a video editing issue at the point of the video, but it's there at the end.
ok I have to be petty here...
You were naming the idler pulleys backwards.
The exhaust side of the engine is the "left" side and the intake is the "right" side.
and now I want to ask, your accent sound south east, maybe Florida. But where is your wife from?
Ah, come on Buddy, give me a break (smiling). Yeah, you're probably right going by which side of the engine is left and right. Just to be sure, I looked it up in the FSM to see if there was any mention of left and right idlers. Nope, all it said was remove/install timing belt idler pulleys. As for where I'm from, you're right about the southeast and I live in NC. And my wife is originally from England. Even after 20 years, she still has her British accent. Thanks for the comment Buddy!
That was a great jod thank you enjoyed that very much can save a lit money
+Fox Howze Glad to hear that you liked the video series and thanks for dropping in.
Estoy cambiando el kit de correa de distribución de un Chevrolet Optra el mismo del vídeo .al darle Jiro al motor la correa se destenciona al darle Jiro al motor y el patín automático se tenciono todo solo y por este motivo al mecánico anterior le partió 3 patines automáticos le cambió la bomba de agua la pregunta es será q el patín está saliendo malo
I am sorry as I don't understand the question and Google translate didn't make any sense.
Madness!
I can't put my belt on! About 3 millimeters are missing to put on the tensioner!!
My trunk indicator on the dashboard says trunk is open but it's not. Keeps draining the battery. My wife was cleaning the car and she said she may have pulled some wiring under the driver seat. I did not see any broken wires. Please help . 2006 Suzuki forenza
If you have any broken wires either on the positive or negative side, then your light would not come on. So, it's not a broken wire. The most likely cause is your trunk door latch switch contact is always staying closed. Check this item to be sure that it's not closed all the time. The switch should open when you close the trunk and close when you open the trunk. The wire colors for this switch should be Black and Pink/Black. Here are two links for free wiring diagrams.
www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-forenza-reno-forum/54175-links-reno-forenza-service-manuals.html
www.bbbind.com/tech_database.html I used this site to look up the circuit and color coding.
Wonderful thank you
Thanks soo much!!
Hopefully someone could help me out here. I put everything back together exactly as should be, but now harmonic balancer does not line up with other pulleys. Belt rubs against tensioner, tearing up belt. All other pulleys are aligned. Just not balancer, I even replaced harmonic balancer just in case that was issue, n related tensioner, still can't figure out why it's a 1/2" off. Please help been fighting this for a long time.
Good .
Thanks
Eres bueno maestro..
thanks friend the Ecuador
+pedro fernando alvarado wiracocha You're welcomed friend and I have visited your country. Very nice people down there and beautiful country.
+stuzman52 THANK YOU FOR VISITING MY COUNTRY COMPANY WORK IN AUGUST saldre CocaCola IRE HOLIDAY TO THE UNITED STATES WHERE MY FATHER
Saved
Glad to hear the video(s) helped you out! Have a great day!
M puedes contestar en español una pregunta
Claro, pero tendré que usar el traductor de Google ya que no hablo español.
HELLO I INSTALLED MY TIMING BELT LIKE 11,000 MILES AGO. I ALSO REPLACED MYHEAD GASKET. EVERYTHNG SEEMS TO WORK FINE BUT I HAVE A VALVE COVER GASKET LEAK. TO BE HONEST I CHEAPED OUT ON THAT ONE. DID NOT BUY THE FELPRO VALVE COVER GASKET. SO I REALIZED I WAS LEAKING FROM THE RIGHT SIDE OF MY VALVE COVER GASKET STANDING IN FRONT OF MY CAR IN OTHER WORDS DRIVER SIDE. THERE IS 2 SEMICIRCLES WHERE THE OIL IS LEAKING FROM.I OPENED MY COVER UP AND PUT GASKET SEALER BUT IT GOT WORST. I AM INSTALLING A FELPRO VALVE COVER GASKET NOW.
th-cam.com/video/VQVimFxRbms/w-d-xo.html Help please. I took your advise and changed my head and the old one had several bent valves. I replaced with a used one. Didn't have the money for a valve job but they looked great. Anyway got it back together and it's not running right. It revs up and runs really ruff. When it idles down it starts backfiring. The video link at the top is right after a camshaft sensor replacement. Also all the spark plugs have turned black and are only a month old. Thanks for any help.
It looks like your timing is correct and at this point, I would do a compression check. With the backfiring, it usually points to a timing issue or a valve sealing issue. Since your timing looks okay, I would focus on the head that you bought. If the compression test shows a bad cylinder, then you can do a leak-down test to see where the air is going. Good luck on what you find!
stuzman I forgot to tell you I did check the compression. 1 & 2 was around 160 and 3 & 4 was around 170.
Find out which cylinder(s) is not contributing by pulling each plug wire off and on and see if that can give you some direction.
Bob, I sent you a reply to your You Tube inbox. Go there and check my reply.
by