She has a good point that most people don’t know what good quality is until they see or feel it for themselves. It’s hard to go back after you experience something actually nice!- but many people don’t get the chance to experience or understand .
I worry we are passing a certain tipping point. I can remember in 2018, Shein was regarded as a scam company that ripped people off by sending poor quality imitation products that looked nothing like the pics on the site. 5 years on and people no longer seem to expect anything to look like the picture, so long as it's 'close enough' Each generation we get a bit further from the memory of quality fabric, good fit and clothing made to last, and our expectations get lower :(
It’s not at all hard to return to poor quality clothes (or even bedding). When it was just myself (no dependent) my extra spending money went on good quality garments and bedding (high cotton count). But after having a child!!! All preferences had to change. However I do miss the good quality of things - that even includes pots and pans.
This is the reason why I prefer vintage pieces (especially boutique pieces). The style may be out, but they don't look shabby at all. I also learn how to sew so I can fix the pieces on my own. I still need more practice to design anything, but it's on my wishlist.
In my opinion the easiest way to create a mind shift is for people to learn to knit, or sew, or crochet. Even if one never makes it past samplers / dish cloth, people will start to understand that cloth have value.
Yes! And there are so many books and online resources for learning hand crafts. TH-cam has tons and tons of videos on sewing, crochet and knitting. And it's fun too! I survived a VERY stressful nonprofit job some years back partially by knitting in my free time. It's like a meditation with a hand craft item at the end. :)
I am back sewing clothes but even though I have access to a major Canadian city, we only have one store that sells medium or possibly better quality fabrics. See my separate posting.
Even finding great fabric takes effort. I end up mail ordering most of the time, and have been very satisfied. Making clothes at home takes a lot of time for sure. It doesnt always end up cheaper, but, you can make it exactly the way you want to. Large seam allowances, great thread, interesting buttons and just the fit you want. You end up with an item worth MUCH more satisfying than buying someone else's efforts. In the end it IS WORTH THE EFFORT. Take the time to learn and along the way your failures will add to your overall knowledge. Knowledge never leaves you, it accumulates over time. And happiness, satisfaction and self esteem comes from your own effort.
Great video! One thing I learned recently that I wished was mentioned is garment repair! Tailors and weavers and cobblers can repair clothes, purses, and shoes and make them look like new. Repairing clothes is another way to extend their life and wear! I have two cashmere sweaters that I wear all the time. They got moth holes in them and were worn down in the elbows. I took them to a weaver and he was able to weave in cashmere yarn you couldn’t tell that there were holes before. The weaver told me his trade is dying because we cheap clothes now that people don’t care to repair and we have such a disposable culture. He’s the only weaver in my city and he told me his business has been declining since the pandemic because people don’t wear nice clothes (suits, dresses, wool and cashmere) as much and wear more workout/athleisure clothes now made of synthetic materials.
Great interview! Justine is a breath of fresh air for many reasons. One that wasn’t touched on in the video is the fact that she has a much healthier verbal stance on aging than what I’ve been seeing on the channel lately. Her age doesn’t matter. A common trend lately has been having the guests proclaim that they are “so old!” Even though they are in their late 20’s - early 30’s. The toxic ageism has made it difficult to stay engaged and watch long enough to get to the meat of the videos. Justine’s perspective on various topics seems healthier and more nuanced. As a result it was a pleasure to watch from beginning to end.
It's interesting you mention this... I was going to comment that this video felt SO old school TFD but I couldn't quite articulate why. I started watching years and years ago before it became the well oiled machine it is now but something feels different. I still love the content, but I haven't been as engaged. So seeing someone actually point something out I hadn't noticed makes me realize it probably a couple little things like that - it feels a bit out of touch/off brand to be emphasizing age given the chaneks general branding and views.
Absolutely! TiffanyFerg has a great video that deep dives into ageism (particularly around women on social media). Watching her video, she recommend a few YT and Instagramers in the 40+ category who embrace their age, gray hair, etc. As someone who will be 36 shortly, I've been switching gears on my social media accounts to follow more 40+ influencers than those under 30. I want to support those who embrace their age, grays, love of fashion, and wish to live their best life no matter their age
I'm pushing 60 and it's so cringey when people pushing 30 or 40 are old and have seen it all and yet, don't take the opinions of actual old people seriously.
i am absolutely not watching anyone under 35 (being generous here) on _any_ topic. if you haven't lived yet, how can you have a balanced opinion? Justine is awesome. she is an expert and a wonderful warm human being. _and_ she only gives opinions in the particular sphere she knows a lot about. so i'll listen (so much to elon musk giving political opinions 🤦♀️🤦♀️🤦♀️)
I appreciate that she shares more details and examples of clothing quality. Too many content creators just say "look for quality" without a clear, thorough explanation of what quality clothes look and feel like.
YES! Sometimes they just refer to a brand-but brands are cutting corners too. You can spend 150-200 for a dress that has no pockets, hems, lining, darts, structure, tight weave or good large seams that allows for tailoring.
One of the first Justine videos I ever watched was how to find clothing features that indicate whether a piece is well made or not. It is a good place to start for those who want to learn more :D
@@justineleconte Not only that, I changed my career to product sustainability. I'm working on reducing carbon footprint and recycling programs for non-curbside recyclable materials. ♻️😄
I’m so happy to these this video, Justine definitely got me back into sewing again and being more picky about what’s in my closet. I’m so happy this Channel branches out into all areas of finances
Chelsea brought up a really good point that even when we look at new, high priced clothing, it's still not very well made. It really is difficult to figure out how to buy good quality, sustainable clothing in our current market
Yes, I bought a skirt secondhand that was originally from Saks I think and while the outer shell is pretty nice wool with cool texture the inside is made out of Halloween costume grade polyester. I have to take it somewhere to get the lining replaced because it squeaks when I move. I'm horrified by how much that must have cost new for the worst fabric I've ever seen.
If you have the budget, you could try getting something custom and handmade. Then you can request things like french seams, natural fibres and linings. That's about as far away from fast fashion as you can get.
I’m a gen-xer and work in an office…the quality of clothing for work has diminished significantly in the past 20 years, even within the same brand. For example, I LOVED my Ralph Lauren 40s-inspired wool trousers I bought around 2005…as a young working girl they were an “investment piece” and I was able to get wear them for quite a few Midwest winters. Now, similar Ralph Lauren trousers have a boxy, ill-fitting cut and the wool feels very thin and cheap. It’s sad and frustrating. It’s most apparent in Banana Republic-you used to be able to find high-quality pieces, but now almost everything is garbage, but at the same price point as before. Corporate greed is the culprit. The top 1% make choices that are diminishing every aspect of our lives.
But that it’s the same price point 20 years later shows that it’s not going to be the same quality. Because if the price increased with inflation, the price point would be way higher.
Here in the Netherlands I have shopped at the same stores for 30 years. Prices certainly have gone up with inflation, Maybe it's 10% cheaper corrected to today's income. Quality is way more down than 10 percent. Even if I would pay 100 euros for a shirt instead of 20, I still can't get the quality of 20 years ago. Worse, I walked past a Chanel store, checked out if that level is where the quality items are at now, also not true. I would be ashamed to put that trash in a shopping window for 1000 euro per set!. Low quality fabric, misprinted colours on the fabric, pulling in the seams, even the two sides of the shirt didn't match up, one was longer by a few millimetres. That wouldn't have passed quality control of my old mall brands
I think it‘s really important to take from these discussions what you can for your personal life and concerns. Don‘t discard everything because one thing is impossible/very difficult for you. We‘ll save the world and ourselves by giving it our best, not by achieving perfection.
Great video. Old lady commenter- I remember the eighties and nineties, and I did buy less often and considered each purchase more carefully than now. That being said, I have always shopped second hand to some extent as well as buying new. The past four or five years I find fewer nice garments in the secondary market, as fast fashion is dominating. When I do find a legacy brand (LL Bean, Talbots, Nordstrom) the quality difference is dramatically apparent. As an example, Jacqueline Smith was a Kmart line, and their garments are much higher quality fabric and construction than newer (Madewell, J Crew) 'higher end' mall brands I find at thrift stores.
I’ve noticed the quality of clothing has drastically gone down in the past 15 years, probably more. I literally shop my mums wardrobe (she has pieces from Berlin from the 80s!) and the quality difference to current clothing is INSANE. The difference is night and day. I now shop second hand, and if I have some extra $$ then on Farfetch sales. Yes, the pieces are expensive up front but last me years, if not my whole lifetime.
Having grown up as a plus size person in South America I can tell you, it is incredibly difficult to find clothes that fit bigger bodies in South America. The clothes I was able to find came actually from the US. Big and curvy are not the same thing, body shape and body size are are not the same thing. I have many small and medium size friends with curves. And then there’s me, big but not curvy. Some brands use words like “curvy” instead of plus size just to make it sound “cuter”, but that’s not it.
It might have been Justine who when talking about plus size woman mentioned that 5% difference in a waist size at a US size 5 is not such a difference. However if you are a size 22, that 5% difference which means you are/are not "apple shaped" is a lot larger and can make the outfit unwearable or very very sloppy.
This is a very good point. I’m living in Portugal, and find the Iberian brands are definitely better in terms of cut for my shape (bigger waist to hip ratio) but not necessarily in terms of size range. (I’m a US 8-10 and that’s considered large in many places)
I wanted to share a recent experience: we were in Bangkok and went to a huge shopping mall (don't really know why, it was on a list of highlights) I was extremely overwhelmed and because there was SO much choice I felt like a failure for not finding anything I really wanted. I then took a step back and realized how crazy the fast fashion marketing is and how compelled you feel to take part. It was a huge moment of clarity for me and I don't want to go to places like that anymore. The pull to buy is so strong EVEN if you are conscious and lucid so it's best to just avoid.
This was a big thing for me - learning to be OK with leaving a mall or any shop without buying anything! It’s still something I’m working on but I’m way better than I used to be. Mostly this is because I’ve got a better sense of my style (and what suits me) and I am choosy. This also helps alleviate the pressure to fall all over trends. Example: we have family in Europe (I normally live in New Zealand) in 2012 I had to get a whole extra suitcase to bring back all my buys from Europe, fast forward ⏩ to 2018 and I came back with one paper shopping bag in my one suitcase with all my pieces that I knew I couldn’t get similar in NZ.
Yeah, I had the same experience in Bangkok. But then I went to the flea market/bazaar and found some good pieces. My brother also gave me a couple of gorgeous hand woven silk sarongs. I forget the Thai name for those but they’re gorgeous!
I've learned how to crochet from my grandma as a child, but only started creating my own garments later as an adult. I noticed very quickly that natural fibers are better to work with, last longer, and feel nicer on the skin. Knowing how to repair small damage or upcycle your clothes is also an alternative to stop compulsive spending.
The quality of name brands really has gone down in the past 15-20 years. Growing up in the 90's and early 2000's, I was really super lucky because I had distant cousin who's family was rich and she'd give me all her old clothes that she didn't want anymore. I think her parents turned her loose with a credit card and she would basically just go to the mall and get whatever she wanted. She was exactly the same size as me and all her jeans fit me perfectly. I never actually met her, but her mom would bring multiple garbage bags full of clothes to my grandmother's house, every few years. It was all name brand and designer stuff from all the high end mall stores and it was amazing! My parents barely had to buy any clothes for me and I got to fit in and not look poor at school. Many of those clothes, I even still have today. But years later, starting when I was in my mid 20's, I wanted to replace some of my Express jeans because they were finally starting to wear out. To my huge disappointment, the jeans they had in the Express store sucked! They were thin and papery and not even hemmed on the bottoms. And every other expensive pair of jeans I found in every other so-called high end mall store were the same way. I had to turn to eBay to find what I wanted. I also found that all the stuff that was in the other high end brand stores like American Eagle and Banana Republic and all the others, sucked compared to their older stuff from the 90's, that I used to have. They use such thin, crappy material now. I used to have a lot of clothes from Express World Brand, that were amazing. I'm not sure how old it was, but I think it was from the early 90's. At some point, I think in the late 90's, or early 2000's, I think they got rid of it when Express was bought out by another company or something. That's when the quality went to hell.
Well, something very important happened around that time, which is NAFTA. Clothing dropped in price like a lead balloon, manufacturing went overseas and marketing started heavily capitalizing on the high fashion now becoming available to the average Joe.
@@TheMocao Yeah, people always complain about malls dying. Maybe the fact that you can't really get a lot of clothes there that are much better than what they have at Walmart, is part of the reason, that people don't think of.
YES! Express used to be known for their quality. I have one button down shirt from 2001 that looks incredible today after many many washes. I can't find anything at this quality now within a normal price point.
I would love to see like a live demo presentation or workshop or exhibit where people could learn the difference between good and bad quality clothing. Like a hands on gallery where you can walk around, touch and feel the difference between different fabrics (natural vs synthetic) maybe even a side by side of different brands when unwashed, vs washed once vs washed five times etc. Just to demonstrate the difference to people and educate. So many young people have no idea what good quality even means because they've been raised on fast fashion (myself included).
I love getting lucky and finding really old, quality garments at thrift stores. I once found three Pringle of Scotland double knit cashmere sweaters in a Manhattan charity thrift store.
I have a wrap cardigan of my mom's from the 70s and a linen shirt and pants set from the 90s. Both are higher quality than what is generally available today.
@@jeannekstrole6891 I want to buy at thrift stores more often but somehow everything there get's more and more expensive and I don't understand why. Quite often you can buy cheaper new clothes at H&M or Dorothy Perkins rather than thrift stores, it's weird.
I own a consignment and resale shop. Available are a handful of stunning vintage pieces. There's no comparison when it comes to quality. Personally, I've created a uniform for myself. With research, most staples have been bought second hand, making higher end brands more accessible and affordable. Thanks to you both. My time was well spent.
It is also worth noting that many so called designer labels or higher end companies also manufacture their products in unsafe factories and with overuse of petrol based fibers.
I remember clothes from when i was growing up in the 2000s. Fabrics were mostly only cotton, they were thicker, buttons were sturdier, there was a lot more attention to detail. These days it's hard to find a good quality, long-lasting piece at a regular mall.
Sometimes I get so surprised seeing cheap prices in stores in the U.S. I grew up in Pakistan where we had a huge tailoring culture. With the price of fabric (which used to be pure, though now synthetic is making its way), and lining, beads, lace and stitching, the final product comes out to be significant. But that also meant that we did not get too many clothes made in a year nor did we discard our clothes till they came apart. However, this did not include marketing and shipping transport costs that clothes have in America. Yet they are so cheap. Cheaply stitched and poor fabric.
It’s interesting the thing she mentioned about necklines lying flat. I noticed several years ago that tops with a substantial collar last much longer and look higher quality. But even in some more “high quality” stores, I see clothing where the collar flips over and shows the lining.
I live in a country where handwashing and line drying is the norm but I chuckled at responding to time strapped moms that they do have time to switch up their laundry practices. I would have said the same pre kids but having kids humbles you and it's a shock to the system how much of a struggle it is to find time for many things
This was the first point in the video that tripped me up too! I was looking to see if anyone else mentioned this… I don’t even have kids and I find it hard… I think about my mum who loves line drying and would guard the dryer with her life… but when push came to shove, it went in the dryer 😂 I live in a small place in a cooler climate, in the winter it almost feels like you don’t have much of a choice, especially if you don’t want the heater running all the time… I guess it’s more about being mindful, I have to get past my resistance and try to take her advice on board… but I totally agree! 😊
I grew up line drying in Ireland. Now I live in an apartment and we're not allowed to dry our clothes on the balcony (ridiculous) so my sitting room is often filled with our 3 clothes horses pushed up to the windows to get the sunshine : )
We have so many people who can’t afford rent. In Canada when I look at sustainable brands the clothes only look good on stick thin people. No nice form fitting cotton tops for people like me who are barely 5’2” with a pear shape. Wearing baggy tops look horrendous on someone like me. The tops are like $135 dollars. Finding pants is a nightmare. I don’t wear dresses or skirts in the winter because it’s bloody cold and I’ve never been able to comfortably wear nylons or the slightly improved lighter tights.
In Australia most of us wash & line dry, dryers are not seen as essential. When we use them, it is to 'finish off' after they have been on the line & they are cold, slightly damp, or it's going to rain!
I really enjoyed this conversation and appreciated Justine’s suggestions of how we can make shopping more ethically work regardless of how much we earn. Also the discussion of how to not pass on our own exploitation and instead foster a sense of community was very elegantly articulated. What an important mindset. Thanks for a great episode 👏
I sew and I love it. A lot of people do not understand the value and skill that goes into it. I guess it's hard to see the true value when fast fashion cheapens it all. I feel like factory workers have been dehumanized by their employers and the consumer and its so sad.
Love Justine’s channel! Great collab. The point she made about shopping brands and designers that cater to markets with similar body types as you… WOW. What a lightbulb moment. Of course I should be looking at Latin American designers who are used to cutting clothes to fit bodies with curves. Eye-opening.
I'm from Brazil. The harsh reality is that unless you buy from high end designers, most clothes here come from China and are very weird fitting for Brazilian bodies. Also, no functional pockets on women's clothes. I just bough a lot of clothes on a trip to the US, both in second hand stores and in discount clothes stores because they are better quality for the same price. Maybe it is just because clothes dryers are prevalent in the US and clothes are made to withstand this.
Yes, and I know from experience she's 100% correct. I'm a tall lady of Scandinavian heritage who has spent a fair amount of time living in Mediterranean countries. I quickly learned to pack all the clothing and shoes I could possibly need, since not one thing in the stores fit! They're all just so petite. Even in the UK it was tough to find clothing as a slender 19 year old. I tried to go to Scandinavia to shop, but it's so expensive there I couldn't even afford the flight and one night in a hotel. Probably would have been fantastic.
@@lesleyegbert4807 I live in Northern Germany, am 5' and wear a cup G - I just gave up and started sewing all of my clothes myself. Yes, it takes time but there just is no brand in the world who makes clothes for my body so I have no choice than getting them tailored or doing it myself.
Bro same! It sounds so obvious now she’s said it but it really isn’t. I totally relate to feeling huge in France, sizes run small and short, I definitely need to look at Scandinavian designers. I’ve found independent polish designers are really great quality too, but I do need to budget for it.
I love Justine's content. I think this video is relevant for any age group or price point. I see many young women who dont care about trends they wear what they want including lots of vintage
I thoroughly enjoyed this segment! Having had the luxury of experiencing "slow fashion" as an older millennial ('80s), I've been witness to the drastic decline of quality clothing. I still have pieces from my late parents' wardrobes that I will forever cherish. It was fascinating to learn about the boxy garment "trends" that brands implement in order to cut corners. I never would've put two and two together! I, too, have become mindful about cost per wear when making a purchase and also implement a one in/one out philosophy when spending. Although I haven't yet mastered a capsule wardrobe, one takeaway was to reduce my closet 50% and be intentional about future investments. This was fantastic - a much needed conversation!
My mom has some sweaters from Land's End and tops from Ann Taylor from the early 90s she still wears, and they are such high quality!! The sweaters are thicker than ones I've bought from high end stores! And Ann Taylor now is so cheap and flimsy, I was shocked the last time I tried to shop there.
Justine Leconte is so fabulous - knowledgeable, creative, business minded, intelligent and ethical. And she speaks at least 3 languages! Thanks for having her on, very interesting interview. As for clothing, I'm old enough i used to dress make in the '70s and '80s. I thought of returning to it recently as it's so hard to find standard, classical, properly fitted, properly sewn clothes in decent fabrics nowadays - at any price! But the fabrics being sold in stores now has also gone badly downhill. As for people not knowing quality - yes, people are buying rubbishy sewn garments because they don't know what decent stitching, fit or fabric seam matching even looks like any more.
The tip about looking for clothing brands from different countries based on average body type there is honestly so smart and helpful if you're tall or short compared to most others where you live
What she said about high heels and sneakers is indeed correct. My employer is also encouraging people to wear sneakers to work. It encourages people to be more active during their work day. We do walking lunches, catch ups and sneakers do definitely make it easier.
And to be honest heels are terrible for your feet. The first job where I had to wear some I got plantar fasciitis from them in one foot. I didn't even know what plantar fasciitis was. But I soon discovered it it painful as heck! It was so terrible. As a tall girl I don't need them and don't want them! Nobody needs to be wearing them. They should only ever be optional. We can still look classy in a well made flat or other nice shoe.
Thank you for having Justine Leconte on to talk about sustainable wardrobe strategies! It's like a meeting of the minds! Love both of your bodies of work. Cost per wear is a big take away for building an ethical wardrobe.
I would love to buy more vintage and thrift clothes. It’s hard when you’re plus size. There’s a terrific vintage store here in town, but everything is so small. I even want to support small/slow fashion labels, but again it’s hard when everything is made for a smaller size. I get it, fabric is expensive and it takes more to make a larger size. I am trying to buy less clothes and I do try to get stuff tailored more rather than discarding it. And I try to mix high end quality clothes with fast fashion brands. I find if I give myself a cooling off period and I read the reviews I can make mindful purchases. I will say this though it’s not only the fast fashion brands that aren’t being ethical, there are plenty of high end fashion houses that throw stuff away to create demand. And clothes are just not made as great as they used to be.
Same! I'm plus size, curvy, and short lmao. It's really hard to find clothes that fit the trifecta, and I occasionally end up buying fast fashion clothes because they look like they'd work for me (and I can return them if they don't). But more often, I try things on in store and then find them later on secondhand apps like Poshmark, Depop or Ebay. Or I'll get things tailored / alter it myself if I can. The apps are nice because I don't drive and my city doesn't have great transit, so dragging myself to secondhand stores in-person without any guarantee of success feels like a chore :|
I’m on the other end of the spectrum being very small and have the same issue with sustainable brands. It’s not economical for most of them to have sizes outside of average range. I even have the same issue with shoes. It really is quite frustrating.
As a very tall lady, I feel your pain when it comes to vintage clothing. So much of it is awesome and so little of it fits. It's just a sea of unintentional 3/4 sleeve blazers as far as the eye can see...
I wear exclusively thrifted or homemade clothing. I have found GREAT fabrics at thrift stores for as little as under $1 per yard. I look for: cotton shower curtains, table cloths, bedding, curtains, etc; as well as yardage. Even if it's just suitable for nightgowns or aprons, it's another category of clothing I don't have to pay retail for. Also, I shop mainly at small, local charity shops - a quick Google search can turn up these independent stores, that are not part of a national thrift store conglomerate. I love knowing where my money is going, can find well-made natural-fiber clothing, and opens my creativity to the possibilities that are there if I use my imagination.
Buying a sewing machine and learning to sew solves many wardrobe problems. You can use top quality fabrics, custom fit your body, and sew any era you want, using vintage patterns or re-released patterns for vintage styles. You can decide how long your skirts will be and nobody will have the same garments because they are totally unique. 😊
I really liked how she asked Chelsea how she would answer that question when she wasn't sure. That was really smart. Loved this convo!♡ big fan of both channels♡
Justine is the one opening my eyes about fast fashion 😊 it make sense you have her on your channel. In end of day we are spending more money with fast fashion and this is my philosophy now
I agree with everything stated, one problem though, if you are outside the "normal" size range (I'm 5f 10in, size 16, 11 shoe) thrifting is nearly impossible, sustainable brands have limited sizing and vintage ha. So unfortunately its fast fashion jeans for me cause finding a 34 inseam outside of old navy is a treasure hunt.
It takes PAAAAAAAAATIENCE!!! It has taken me 2 years to replace pants by shopping in thrift stores (34" inseam). I also shop secondhand online, but you can't check for quality in the same way. I'd recommend secondhand, older (when quality was better) tall Levi's, Gap, J Crew, Banana Republic, Land's End, LL Bean, Eddie Bauer & Ann Taylor for office & adult casual wear in tall plus sizes.
I'm 5'9" thrifting for a mommy small pooch with hip dip in size 6 pants is like pulling out my hair. Even finding shoes in size usa women's 11 is a nightmare even new! I've a feeling Scandinavian clothes would fit better. But I can't afford to ship stuff to the usa
@@ifetayodavidson-cade561334" inseam is terribly hard to find! Especially in my area. I'm of Scandinavian decent and every thing that is made for the women in my area is for women under 5'6" and plump.
I remember buying from Zara in the 2000s and I had a pair of corduroy trousers that I wore all the time until I gave them away because I lost weight and didn't fit anymore. Thinking of those trousers, I bought another pair also from Zara years later, they didn't last a year before the fabric wore out in places. I also experienced how clothes became smaller and smaller, the same size in 2002 was way smaller in 2010. I had my 2002 clothes, all the clothes bought in 2010 and after disintegrated quickly. Now I try to make my own clothes or buy second hand. Fast fashion is the worst.
I've watched Justine for years. So glad you got her on your channel. She has such a way of explaining what id going on and driving the fashion industry so that the average lay person can understand.
While I can't afford the clothes promoted in this channel, I shop local and try to not shop in fast fashion like Shein. Shein's clothes feel uncomfortable to wear anyway (tried to buy clothes online only realizing that the store is a Shein reseller) so while I don't know whether all the clothes I own don't have forced labor to it, hopefully buying local helps the local economy and better the lives of the local seamstress sewing those clothes.
This is so good! Re washing though - experiment when you can. A lot of things manufacturers say can’t be washed like leather, sequin, silk, lace can be hand washed or machine washed in 30 degrees. I wear a ridiculous amount of sequence and wash all of it.
I love Justine’s channel. I’ve learned so much from her over the years. It also helps that my hubby is not from the US so already had many of the things she teaches embedded in his upbringing. We have a child and we do not have a dryer. We haven’t used a dryer for over a decade (stopped in college) not only do my clothes last longer but they look better. So, with diligent planning (folding laundry now while watching this so I can hang the next load that is currently washing). The other thing I learned many years ago before TH-cam was about fabrics. Synthetics make me sweat like crazy. I have always gravitated towards the wools, cashmeres, and silks even when I couldn’t afford. Now there are brands like Grana or Quince where it’s not unaffordable (don’t know about their ethics though). It’s possible to take care of your clothes without it being terribly overwhelming.
Two of everybody's favorite ladies. I'm lucky enough to be old and didn't grow up with fast fashion. I grew up as a child in the fifties and sixties and seventies and remember when clothes were really great quality and well made. Quality began to deteriorate in the mid seventies when much of our manufacturing began to go overseas and has gone down ever since. I remember when shoes came in many widths . Now they are made with cheaper labor higher prices and fewer options. I think one thing to ask when we consider buying something is whether we really love an item of clothing. Sometimes waiting two weeks or more to see if something is still in our mind is a good strategy. Another thing is do items of clothing fit our lifestyle and work for the environment we live in. I think the French idea of quality over quantity is something we as Americans can and should adapt.
As someone who grew up in the 2000s that’s crazy to think about. I think of a lot of stuff from the 90s and 2000s as being pretty high quality! At least compared to what’s available now
I live in Chile, where the majority of people are poor, and a thin strata of people are very wealthy. For people here H&M is not fast fashion. They use the clothes until they fall apart. They can't afford anything more. Having said that we also have 'ferias' which are markets that sell fruit/veg and second hand clothes from other countries (mainly US and some UK). The sellers buy the bales of clothes from abroad (mostly things that haven't sold in charity shops or thrift stores) and resell. These clothes are much cheaper than even H&M. There is a mix of rubbish in there and also quite a few very good quality little worn gems....Ralph Lauren, Talbot, Free People etc. You have to look though and nothing is organized it is just in big piles. A lot of people shop here out of necessity not because they have the luxury of caring about the environment. It should be pointed out that SHEIN clothes NEVER resell because they are crap quality. So it is true these clothes really do end up in the desert in a massive disgusting tip here. The quality clothes resell. Some expensive brands I have noticed are not great quality...yes Free People I am calling out here.
Ugh I feel like I should apologize as a US citizen!!!! I hate that our trash ends up in other countries. 😢 I do what I can to consume less but it’s still awful.
Chelsea made such a excellent point about the scarcity mentality and individualism! And Justine's point about brands brainwashing you into entitlement as well. It saddens me so much when I see people justifying buying fast fashion with "but I also deserve cute outfits even though I'm poor/struggle to find my size" - cause like... Do you? You deserve clothing, of course!! But is all of what you want truly a need? Are there truly no alternatives, or is it just more inconvenient? In an ideal world there would be ethical cute outfits available for everyone, but you have to sometimes sacrifice your own desires or convenience if you want to maintain your integrity and solidarity with other people who are also struggling - if you want a humane society to persist in the world of capitalism. A lot of people don't like to hear that, bc it sucks to compromise on your own desires! But two wrongs don't make a right.
I think my frustration with this justification is the lack of connecting to the people who are extremely poorly paid who make the clothes. Yes, clothes are expensive and sometimes when you're poor and trying to find work you end up having to find cheap options because your job requires a clothing item you don't own (I've been there) and can barely afford the cheap version of. But, also, your choices are actively keeping others in poverty unable to afford a variety of necessities. It's frustrating to see the argument of income being made and yet no acknowledgement of how cheap, fast fashion creates poverty and prevents people from having quality clothing by chasing profit above all.
The thrift stores are full of garbage and the stores in my area are full of higher priced garbage. Sometimes the thrift stores are basically the same price as discount retailers like Ross and Marshall's. The trouble is that we get desperate when things change in our lives rapidly and buy whatever is good enough just to get by.
I had to replace my entire wardrobe last year, not out of desire but out of necessity because I lost all of my belongings in a fire. It's been kind of a grueling process, because I'd like to be more mindful of my choices but I've also had to make some quick decisions in the following days and weeks (like buying shitty H&M pieces on the day of the fire because I needed something quick, had no change of clothes and was on a tight insurance budget) and it's been bugging me ever since. I'd love to buy more secondhand stuff, but like mentioned here, it's tough when you're not a "standard" size in most clothes. I have extremely specific measurements for pants and jeans that I've never been able to find in thrift stores, so I've had to really just buy whatever actually fit me.
Look into tailoring. It can be an affordable way to get second hand good quality that almost fit. They can make areas small but not “usually “ larger. There are tricks that can make garment looser, but it’s tricky.
Great collaboration! I also don't spin my clothes, my mom gave me weird looks, but my clothes are so much better off that way! Also a material that should be mentioned is hemp! Recently bought two dresses made from hemp and I am in love! Very durable, solid fabric. I also recently switched to a more quality, basic-focused wardrobe and noticed my anxiety in terms of clothing had really gone down and subsided. Now I focus on higher quality, more basic garments that I know I will use and will fit with most of my garments.
Agree about hemp basics. Hemp has a nice drape and feel. I find that the spin cycle in the big front loader washers at the laundromat seems ok, but the top loaders seem to get clothes all twisted and gnarly during a spin.
@@BC-np8cb I knew about hemp clothing before but this is the first time I've actually gotten my hands on any. I usually wash my clothes in the 400 spin cycle, at least now during the summer. We will see how the winter will be and how fast the clothes dry 🥰
We had beautiful-quality clothes in the 80s and early 90s. Suiting was always 100% wool, lined with rayon, which I love because it’s breathable, unlike polyester. Blouses were cotton or silk, jeans were 100% cotton. I wish I had saved more items from then. I was forced into early retirement because of an injury, and thought I wouldn’t miss my blazers, etc., but I did, after I got rid of them. When I tried to buy similar items after 2005, that quality wasn’t available at any price. They say NAFTA is at least partly responsible for the degradation of fashion, because it allows outsourcing to developing countries without environmental or labor laws.
I think she was referring to moth balls, not cedar, when she said it was toxic. Cedar is a great moth repellent and is natural and not toxic…and smells great!
I think the scarcity discussion needs to be expanded in general. I am working on an inventory of my clothing and I realize that I have dome excesses that I buy on repeat because I worry about running out. The other side of that is hitting up thrift stores and sites to buy things that are affordable but well made.
This is a very thought-provoking video by two of my favorite content creators, Justine and Chelsea. I am fascinated by the idea of buying high quality clothing, but less clothing, to save money, the environment and to promote sustainable and humane industry practices. I have a lot in my closet, too much, but many of my older items have been worn hundreds of times. I am going to try Justine’s recommendation to shop second-hand.
Sewing definitely makes a difference to how I understand a quality garment (lucky to have been taught to sew as a teenager); and the popularity of shows like Sewing Bee means that good/interesting fabric is readily available. What sewing for oneself ISN'T is cheap. I reckon I spend similar on the fabric for a garment that I might have on buying a completed equivalent garment (and from somewhere like M&S/Monsoon/Boden, so not that cheap). And yes, I enjoy putting in linings, high quality enclosed seam finishes etc., (all of which help a garment to last longer).
Great conversation! I remember as a child my Mom would spend 70 for pants which was going rate in the 80s. These pants were 100 natural fibres fully line and fit perfectly. The shop would send the pants out to make sure they fit. Her pants were the same classic cut on offer today-they were made in Montreal and lasted 10 to 15 years minimum. Her tops were silk blouses, wool blazers and wool sweaters. She always looked lovely. She had few clothes that she could interchange. I started knitting in 2016. I am currently working on a kid silk mohair sweater that will last me a lifetime in cream. I could not afford to purchase this sweater in a shop even if I could find it. I started sewing again 2 years ago. I make all my own clothes because I was sick of the horrible quality and the uneasy feeling in my stomach wondering about what poor soul was abused to make it. I can source 100 per cent natural fibres that are made to the highest organic standards are quality and in colours that suit me. I can still make a pair of pants for the fraction of what it costs. If u have any interest learn to make your own clothes! I have a family and a full time job I fit it in 30 mins here and hour there just as grand,others and great grandmothers did 😊
Very impressive guest. She seems very smart and authoritative, and I think I learned more than usual. I like how she kind of skirted around the vegans a bit until asked point-blank about vegan "leather" lol. I feel like men's clothing has been a bit more resistant to fast fashion because men tend to not value the act of shopping that highly, and many even go to great lengths to avoid it (e.g. buying more durable clothing but also buying multiples when we find something we like), but the quality of men's clothing has been declining, too. One of these days, it's going to drive me to start sewing.
"Vegan leather" seems like an odd concept, since real leather is a by-product of the meat industry which, if not used for shoes, belts, coats and furniture, would simply be trash. Of course, it is cheaper. Fur is different, as the animals did not have a primary purpose.
This was a great interview with Justine! I learned so much. For a few years now, I have been noticing certain brands (i.e., Old Navy, the Loft, etc.) selling these ugly boxy dresses and sweaters and could never understand why this look is fashionable, since it looks horrible on most women. Last winter, I bought two sweaters from Old Navy's website that looked amazing on the model, and when I tried them on at home, they were too short in length, had really short arms (my arms are on the shorter side so this was crazy), and they were so wide, I felt I should have ordered a size smaller. I had actually measured myself before ordering, so I thought I may have made a mistake. Now I know that they were purposely made that way, and I'm really disappointed to know the truth.
Yeah, I purchased a bunch of sundresses last year from Old Navy and most of them look like nightgowns. I kept them to wear around the house, but I’m also disappointed to find out so much truth
Fair, and I am not defending shitty fast fashion practices here, but I disagree a little bit on "it looks horrible on most women". Some folks enjoy unconventional fits even if they aren't "flattering" by society's standards, and I would hope that ethical fashion options would exist for those of us who do :P
@@neb-03 Idk, I like loose clothes as they are comfy but they make me look so much heavier and when I wear them I feel like shit. It's almost impossible to find form fitting clothes.... Most of everything I see is just a hanging curtain....
@@mpGreen03 I get it, I really do, but over time I've found it helpful to deconstruct the idea that flattering = skinnier / smaller. I love both baggy clothes and form fitting clothes, but as a fat person I'm sick and tired of oft repeated rules like "don't wear horizontal stripes/baggy clothes/short hairstyles/bodycon dresses" etc. We are allowed to dislike how things look on our body and also other people's bodies - but I'd be wary of blanket statements like "boxy clothes look horrible on all women".
On another note, I hear a lot of complaints from folks about the rise of the crop top, and how it's difficult to find tops that cover the full torso. On the other hand, I have a short torso and for the first time in my life I can find tops that don't require me to tuck them in 😂I guess no trend works for everyone.
Excellent! Justine Leconte doesn't hide behind half answers, half truths. In addition to her other skills and talents, Justine Leconte is a fine researcher. Fine and fearless. Thank you for combining your knowledge and awareness with that of Justine Leconte's in this vital conversation.
I am learning to knit and sew. And as I changed to my Autumn clothing I set aside things I love in theory (eg a thrifted silk blouse) but never wear. Identified why I don't wear it (it is too long) and now I am altering it to see if it will make me wear it ❤
Great interview!! I've been watching Justine for YEARS!!! Her tips and videos on determining your shape and size so the clothes you buy compliment you, as well as keeping us aware of the industry is free education everyone should invest in. Her channel and knowledge was a game changer to not just my wardrobe but to how I shop as a consumer in general. Between Justine's channel and TFD my life with money, sustainability and all over creative inspiration has been much improved over the years and this video was to me, what a Taylor Swift concert is to Swifties!! Thank you so much!!😊😊❤❤
I so enjoyed this! I love both of your channels and have been watching Justine since she only had about 20,000 subscribers. As I’ve gotten older, I am 56 now, I have gravitated towards higher quality clothing. I thought the problem was because of my body changes happening, that my clothes were lying differently on me and didn’t look as good. At first I was attributing this to not having my 20/ 30-year-old body anymore, and then I realized it really is the quality, the thickness of the fabric, the weave or the small details that were making the clothing not look as good on me. this in turn has caused me to purchase less items.
I pick my own trends that are classic and universal to my alternative lifestyle. I'm currently into button down tops with jeans for work and going out, while tshirt and plain pajama pants for at home wear. I also love coridor (sorry for typo) fabrics because they last long and purchase items from eBay that are from respectable company that practice fair trade. Ebay and Etsy have amazing fair trade, ethical clothing that aren't even that expensive and allows you to collect over time so you build your wardrobe over time while using what you already have till they are rags and then you use them fabrics as cleaning rags. That is what I use my stuff for.
You two win for two of the most articulate, informed, intelligent, relevant, and ethical content producers I've ever seen on any of the available media 🥰🤩 Bonjour and Hello from Vancouver ❤🤍❤
This was such a great episode! Thank you for having Justine as a guest. That answer from Chelsey to that last question about affordable ethical fashion resonated with me. Thank you!
My mother taught, drilled, me and my sisters to stay with the classic styles in a Good fabric and cuts... Her mother (my granny) and her sisters (my grand aunts) were the town seamstresses... To this day, my sisters and I have always stayed with the classic cuts and styles.... Quiet luxury on a sale budget....
Encouraging sustainable habits among young(er) people has a great payoff, because that could mean tons of clothes that they don't buy due to a different mindset. It's something that I think about as I do post-death decluttering for my parents.
The thing that nobody talking about is the high quality but expensive clothing, styling and it's connection to weight management. You have to maintain your average weight eating healthy, be active to be able to wear your wadrobe elements for decades.i think it is easier for european and asian woman with traditional diet, better quality food materials, social pressure -there is a healthy level of that too- and overall more active lifestyle. It's key.
Many other cultures traditional clothing especially for women are more adjustable like wraps and not skin tight so they fit over a longer period of time even with weight gain or loss.
@@Cat-nf9bh That is forward thinking and sustainable! I am old enough to have realized in the late 1990s that mall stores were making clothes with stretch to avoid proper tailoring. They also sometimes make clothes oversized to avoid proper tailoring.
@@Cat-nf9bh yes,I know they can be sewn adjustable to a certain level. But no "traditional clothing", that is actually wearable and not unpractical by modern standards can hide 8-10 extra kilos...
I totally agree with you. Historically when fabric was home made and very time consuming, there were no clothe sizes. Women could wear their underskirts, dresses, tops, skirts and aprons whatever their shape whether they were pregnant or not. The secret : no buttons, no tailoring, large clothes which could be made any size using shirring and gathering. This remains true in some cultures : kimonos, saris, etc. It is possible that in the US this is also the case for Amish women, I do not know.
I knit and crochet. I need to develop my sewing skills more. Sew your own clothes and I love finding things in second hand stores that can be altered or repurposed with sewing.
It also makes you appreciate why quality clothing cannot be too cheap, and once you start investing into quality materials, even if it is not cheaper than buying, it does last longer.
@@syeinaWell, not in comparison to knitting. I actually stopped knitting and started sewing as I became a mother. I need two evenings for a garment with a average complexity (shirt, simple dress…). For kids sweatpants I make about three on a afternoon, now :) I think it’s less time consuming than shopping for the exact thing you need or want. But I want to get better at sewing, too. I never made something like a nicer dress or denims. I learn most from repairing garments.
YES-fnally! I was waiting for this topic for a long time-thank you! I recently started falling in love with vintage fashion- and I believe vintage shopping is the BEST SOLUTION for my wallet, the planet, and for the unique style I can create for myself without being dressed the same as everybody else. I have a few beautiful pieces and I wear them quite a bit, and get a lot of compliments about them, and I want to learn more about how to shop for vintage. thank you, thank you!
Thank you very much for this channel and this particular episode with Justine LeConte. Re: sizing, Justine’s suggestion of seeking clothing from a region in the world where the female norm most closely matches your body size and shape. When I lived in South Africa, I came across very well made clothing from German designers that probably dated back to the 80’s. Really high quality fabrics and construction - larger pattern cuts than French - as well as ample fabric in the seams to allow a customer to let out the item if needed, especially for pants and skirts. Just a few decades later, we would NEVER find any extra fabric on a garment. I also appreciated some of these brands because I knew that German consumers were conservative with their money and insisted on quality and durability way over trendy, flighty “fashion.” But these brands did not survive once “fashion” became profitable for corporations, or else their quality plummeted, or they became staples in bargain basic outlet stores.
oh yeah you rarely find a garment regardless of the cost with enough in the seam to let out, even if it has taping. Almost always have to go up a size or a few and have things sized down instead.
So much of my wardrobe is comprised of high quality vintage handed-me-down items or the same purchased in thrift and consignment shops. I do buy new socks and underwear, and leggings and tights. As I like having art on my walls to enjoy and fine dishes in my China cabinet to use and enjoy seeing; I also enjoy seeing and looking at the special clothing well-fitting, high quality vintage items, including shoes, in my closet snd drawers. I buy only vintage swimsuits and Own many. If I “need” a specific item for a special occasion I look for it in a thrift shop. If I don’t find it I make do with something I already have. I love the clothing I have.
There is a book called Cheap: The High Cost of Discount Culture by Ruppell Shell. She covered many of the topics covered today including the food and furniture industry. The lost of quality of our clothing is one of the reasons our clothes don’t have pockets , dresses don’t have sleeves, clothing isn’t lined anymore. Seams aren’t finished, there are no hems and children pants don’t have working flys -you can’t save children’s clothing to hand down because they barely make it a season with one child.
Thank you for this feature that raises so many vital points that we all need to engage with. I would like to contribute to the discussion with the suggestion of finding a good tailor or seamtress (apologies if these terms are gendered). This supports local crafts people while opening up possibilities for re-shaping and re-sizing vintage and second-hand items as well as repairing and altering existing garments. I am very pleased to see that repair techniques, such as Sashiko, have become popular, and where I live there are classes and courses in repairing and re-fitting garments. I have been watching Justine’s videos for a number of years and am inspired by her passion and commitment … waiting for her to start a menswear line! Thanks again for great content!
She has a good point that most people don’t know what good quality is until they see or feel it for themselves. It’s hard to go back after you experience something actually nice!- but many people don’t get the chance to experience or understand .
Yes, just look at the quality of most vintage clothing & you see real quality!
I've started to sew myself and now I can't even sneeze on mass-market clothes out of disgust...
I worry we are passing a certain tipping point. I can remember in 2018, Shein was regarded as a scam company that ripped people off by sending poor quality imitation products that looked nothing like the pics on the site. 5 years on and people no longer seem to expect anything to look like the picture, so long as it's 'close enough'
Each generation we get a bit further from the memory of quality fabric, good fit and clothing made to last, and our expectations get lower :(
It’s not at all hard to return to poor quality clothes (or even bedding). When it was just myself (no dependent) my extra spending money went on good quality garments and bedding (high cotton count). But after having a child!!! All preferences had to change. However I do miss the good quality of things - that even includes pots and pans.
This is the reason why I prefer vintage pieces (especially boutique pieces). The style may be out, but they don't look shabby at all. I also learn how to sew so I can fix the pieces on my own. I still need more practice to design anything, but it's on my wishlist.
Thank you Chelsea for having me for that episode! Great conversation. And also: your outfit looked SHARP 👌😊
P.S.: the word I was looking for is moth balls - they're the toxic ones, purely chemical.
Justine, it’s wonderful seeing you on here. I love your content so much. ❤️
Love your content Justine 🥰
In my opinion the easiest way to create a mind shift is for people to learn to knit, or sew, or crochet. Even if one never makes it past samplers / dish cloth, people will start to understand that cloth have value.
Yes! And there are so many books and online resources for learning hand crafts. TH-cam has tons and tons of videos on sewing, crochet and knitting. And it's fun too! I survived a VERY stressful nonprofit job some years back partially by knitting in my free time. It's like a meditation with a hand craft item at the end. :)
totally. it took me 8 hours to sew a shirt that i would've happily paid 15 bucks for 10 years ago.... and now i know so much better
I am back sewing clothes but even though I have access to a major Canadian city, we only have one store that sells medium or possibly better quality fabrics. See my separate posting.
Even finding great fabric takes effort. I end up mail ordering most of the time, and have been very satisfied. Making clothes at home takes a lot of time for sure. It doesnt always end up cheaper, but, you can make it exactly the way you want to. Large seam allowances, great thread, interesting buttons and just the fit you want. You end up with an item worth MUCH more satisfying than buying someone else's efforts. In the end it IS WORTH THE EFFORT. Take the time to learn and along the way your failures will add to your overall knowledge. Knowledge never leaves you, it accumulates over time. And happiness, satisfaction and self esteem comes from your own effort.
I like the way you are thinking!@@eclairtreo
Great video! One thing I learned recently that I wished was mentioned is garment repair! Tailors and weavers and cobblers can repair clothes, purses, and shoes and make them look like new. Repairing clothes is another way to extend their life and wear!
I have two cashmere sweaters that I wear all the time. They got moth holes in them and were worn down in the elbows. I took them to a weaver and he was able to weave in cashmere yarn you couldn’t tell that there were holes before.
The weaver told me his trade is dying because we cheap clothes now that people don’t care to repair and we have such a disposable culture. He’s the only weaver in my city and he told me his business has been declining since the pandemic because people don’t wear nice clothes (suits, dresses, wool and cashmere) as much and wear more workout/athleisure clothes now made of synthetic materials.
Great interview! Justine is a breath of fresh air for many reasons. One that wasn’t touched on in the video is the fact that she has a much healthier verbal stance on aging than what I’ve been seeing on the channel lately. Her age doesn’t matter. A common trend lately has been having the guests proclaim that they are “so old!” Even though they are in their late 20’s - early 30’s. The toxic ageism has made it difficult to stay engaged and watch long enough to get to the meat of the videos. Justine’s perspective on various topics seems healthier and more nuanced. As a result it was a pleasure to watch from beginning to end.
It's interesting you mention this... I was going to comment that this video felt SO old school TFD but I couldn't quite articulate why.
I started watching years and years ago before it became the well oiled machine it is now but something feels different. I still love the content, but I haven't been as engaged. So seeing someone actually point something out I hadn't noticed makes me realize it probably a couple little things like that - it feels a bit out of touch/off brand to be emphasizing age given the chaneks general branding and views.
Absolutely! TiffanyFerg has a great video that deep dives into ageism (particularly around women on social media). Watching her video, she recommend a few YT and Instagramers in the 40+ category who embrace their age, gray hair, etc. As someone who will be 36 shortly, I've been switching gears on my social media accounts to follow more 40+ influencers than those under 30. I want to support those who embrace their age, grays, love of fashion, and wish to live their best life no matter their age
Excellent point
I'm pushing 60 and it's so cringey when people pushing 30 or 40 are old and have seen it all and yet, don't take the opinions of actual old people seriously.
i am absolutely not watching anyone under 35 (being generous here) on _any_ topic. if you haven't lived yet, how can you have a balanced opinion? Justine is awesome. she is an expert and a wonderful warm human being. _and_ she only gives opinions in the particular sphere she knows a lot about. so i'll listen (so much to elon musk giving political opinions 🤦♀️🤦♀️🤦♀️)
I appreciate that she shares more details and examples of clothing quality. Too many content creators just say "look for quality" without a clear, thorough explanation of what quality clothes look and feel like.
YES! Sometimes they just refer to a brand-but brands are cutting corners too. You can spend 150-200 for a dress that has no pockets, hems, lining, darts, structure, tight weave or good large seams that allows for tailoring.
Glad you enjoyed it!
One of the first Justine videos I ever watched was how to find clothing features that indicate whether a piece is well made or not. It is a good place to start for those who want to learn more :D
Justine was the reason why I started learning how to sew and eventually made my own clothes. She's very inspirational. ❤
Yay! It's great that you're taking action and found a system that works with your wardrobe and your values!
@@justineleconte Not only that, I changed my career to product sustainability. I'm working on reducing carbon footprint and recycling programs for non-curbside recyclable materials. ♻️😄
The key to sewing regularly is to “do it now,” instead of putting it in a pile to do someday.
I’m so happy to these this video, Justine definitely got me back into sewing again and being more picky about what’s in my closet. I’m so happy this Channel branches out into all areas of finances
Chelsea brought up a really good point that even when we look at new, high priced clothing, it's still not very well made. It really is difficult to figure out how to buy good quality, sustainable clothing in our current market
Yes! I have been shopping for new work clothes (I need suits now) and I was surprised how many higher priced suiting was POLYESTER
Yes, I bought a skirt secondhand that was originally from Saks I think and while the outer shell is pretty nice wool with cool texture the inside is made out of Halloween costume grade polyester. I have to take it somewhere to get the lining replaced because it squeaks when I move. I'm horrified by how much that must have cost new for the worst fabric I've ever seen.
@@AlexielRaziel Sumissura does made to measure suits and clothes. You choose the fabrics. Look into that kind of servive.
Well best is to try it at shop. Natural fibers have specic feel. And also it is good to check fibers under microscope
If you have the budget, you could try getting something custom and handmade. Then you can request things like french seams, natural fibres and linings. That's about as far away from fast fashion as you can get.
I’m a gen-xer and work in an office…the quality of clothing for work has diminished significantly in the past 20 years, even within the same brand. For example, I LOVED my Ralph Lauren 40s-inspired wool trousers I bought around 2005…as a young working girl they were an “investment piece” and I was able to get wear them for quite a few Midwest winters. Now, similar Ralph Lauren trousers have a boxy, ill-fitting cut and the wool feels very thin and cheap. It’s sad and frustrating. It’s most apparent in Banana Republic-you used to be able to find high-quality pieces, but now almost everything is garbage, but at the same price point as before.
Corporate greed is the culprit. The top 1% make choices that are diminishing every aspect of our lives.
And the pockets in the trousers and skirts are not as large anymore. Pockets used to be deep and beautifully lined without the fear of getting a hole.
And adding polyester 😡😡😡
But that it’s the same price point 20 years later shows that it’s not going to be the same quality. Because if the price increased with inflation, the price point would be way higher.
Here in the Netherlands I have shopped at the same stores for 30 years. Prices certainly have gone up with inflation, Maybe it's 10% cheaper corrected to today's income. Quality is way more down than 10 percent. Even if I would pay 100 euros for a shirt instead of 20, I still can't get the quality of 20 years ago. Worse, I walked past a Chanel store, checked out if that level is where the quality items are at now, also not true. I would be ashamed to put that trash in a shopping window for 1000 euro per set!. Low quality fabric, misprinted colours on the fabric, pulling in the seams, even the two sides of the shirt didn't match up, one was longer by a few millimetres. That wouldn't have passed quality control of my old mall brands
TOTALLY! I'm a fellow Gen-Xer, and I agree. Banana Republic sucks now
I think it‘s really important to take from these discussions what you can for your personal life and concerns. Don‘t discard everything because one thing is impossible/very difficult for you. We‘ll save the world and ourselves by giving it our best, not by achieving perfection.
YES YES YES
Exactly! ❤️❤️
Great perspective ❤
Great video. Old lady commenter- I remember the eighties and nineties, and I did buy less often and considered each purchase more carefully than now. That being said, I have always shopped second hand to some extent as well as buying new. The past four or five years I find fewer nice garments in the secondary market, as fast fashion is dominating. When I do find a legacy brand (LL Bean, Talbots, Nordstrom) the quality difference is dramatically apparent. As an example, Jacqueline Smith was a Kmart line, and their garments are much higher quality fabric and construction than newer (Madewell, J Crew) 'higher end' mall brands I find at thrift stores.
I’ve noticed the quality of clothing has drastically gone down in the past 15 years, probably more. I literally shop my mums wardrobe (she has pieces from Berlin from the 80s!) and the quality difference to current clothing is INSANE. The difference is night and day. I now shop second hand, and if I have some extra $$ then on Farfetch sales. Yes, the pieces are expensive up front but last me years, if not my whole lifetime.
Having grown up as a plus size person in South America I can tell you, it is incredibly difficult to find clothes that fit bigger bodies in South America. The clothes I was able to find came actually from the US. Big and curvy are not the same thing, body shape and body size are are not the same thing. I have many small and medium size friends with curves. And then there’s me, big but not curvy. Some brands use words like “curvy” instead of plus size just to make it sound “cuter”, but that’s not it.
It might have been Justine who when talking about plus size woman mentioned that 5% difference in a waist size at a US size 5 is not such a difference.
However if you are a size 22, that 5% difference which means you are/are not "apple shaped" is a lot larger and can make the outfit unwearable or very very sloppy.
This is a very good point. I’m living in Portugal, and find the Iberian brands are definitely better in terms of cut for my shape (bigger waist to hip ratio) but not necessarily in terms of size range. (I’m a US 8-10 and that’s considered large in many places)
I wanted to share a recent experience: we were in Bangkok and went to a huge shopping mall (don't really know why, it was on a list of highlights) I was extremely overwhelmed and because there was SO much choice I felt like a failure for not finding anything I really wanted. I then took a step back and realized how crazy the fast fashion marketing is and how compelled you feel to take part. It was a huge moment of clarity for me and I don't want to go to places like that anymore. The pull to buy is so strong EVEN if you are conscious and lucid so it's best to just avoid.
This was a big thing for me - learning to be OK with leaving a mall or any shop without buying anything! It’s still something I’m working on but I’m way better than I used to be. Mostly this is because I’ve got a better sense of my style (and what suits me) and I am choosy. This also helps alleviate the pressure to fall all over trends. Example: we have family in Europe (I normally live in New Zealand) in 2012 I had to get a whole extra suitcase to bring back all my buys from Europe, fast forward ⏩ to 2018 and I came back with one paper shopping bag in my one suitcase with all my pieces that I knew I couldn’t get similar in NZ.
Yeah, I had the same experience in Bangkok. But then I went to the flea market/bazaar and found some good pieces. My brother also gave me a couple of gorgeous hand woven silk sarongs. I forget the Thai name for those but they’re gorgeous!
I've learned how to crochet from my grandma as a child, but only started creating my own garments later as an adult. I noticed very quickly that natural fibers are better to work with, last longer, and feel nicer on the skin. Knowing how to repair small damage or upcycle your clothes is also an alternative to stop compulsive spending.
Chelsea and Justine!!! Two of my favorite ladies in one podcast! 2min into the video and I can already tell it is a great and quality content
Same here! So happy to see this happen.
@@lk1869 definitely! i have been following them for a long time, amazing to see them together!!
The quality of name brands really has gone down in the past 15-20 years. Growing up in the 90's and early 2000's, I was really super lucky because I had distant cousin who's family was rich and she'd give me all her old clothes that she didn't want anymore. I think her parents turned her loose with a credit card and she would basically just go to the mall and get whatever she wanted. She was exactly the same size as me and all her jeans fit me perfectly. I never actually met her, but her mom would bring multiple garbage bags full of clothes to my grandmother's house, every few years. It was all name brand and designer stuff from all the high end mall stores and it was amazing! My parents barely had to buy any clothes for me and I got to fit in and not look poor at school. Many of those clothes, I even still have today. But years later, starting when I was in my mid 20's, I wanted to replace some of my Express jeans because they were finally starting to wear out. To my huge disappointment, the jeans they had in the Express store sucked! They were thin and papery and not even hemmed on the bottoms. And every other expensive pair of jeans I found in every other so-called high end mall store were the same way. I had to turn to eBay to find what I wanted. I also found that all the stuff that was in the other high end brand stores like American Eagle and Banana Republic and all the others, sucked compared to their older stuff from the 90's, that I used to have. They use such thin, crappy material now. I used to have a lot of clothes from Express World Brand, that were amazing. I'm not sure how old it was, but I think it was from the early 90's. At some point, I think in the late 90's, or early 2000's, I think they got rid of it when Express was bought out by another company or something. That's when the quality went to hell.
I totally agree. When I flashback to my childhood and young adult years, clothes were usually made better.
Well, something very important happened around that time, which is NAFTA. Clothing dropped in price like a lead balloon, manufacturing went overseas and marketing started heavily capitalizing on the high fashion now becoming available to the average Joe.
@@TheMocao Yeah, people always complain about malls dying. Maybe the fact that you can't really get a lot of clothes there that are much better than what they have at Walmart, is part of the reason, that people don't think of.
@@AlexHider I don't know. The stuff is still pretty expensive. And it was still manufactured overseas back then too.
YES! Express used to be known for their quality. I have one button down shirt from 2001 that looks incredible today after many many washes. I can't find anything at this quality now within a normal price point.
I would love to see like a live demo presentation or workshop or exhibit where people could learn the difference between good and bad quality clothing. Like a hands on gallery where you can walk around, touch and feel the difference between different fabrics (natural vs synthetic) maybe even a side by side of different brands when unwashed, vs washed once vs washed five times etc. Just to demonstrate the difference to people and educate. So many young people have no idea what good quality even means because they've been raised on fast fashion (myself included).
How to do home sewing videos on TH-cam go into this. Back in the day, the fabric stores had more clothing fabrics. Now, it’s just big box garbage.
You always gotta check if stiches are even. Otherwise it will fall apart quickly
I have my father’s wool cardigan from the 70s. It’s still in top notch condition and worn regularly. It’s my most treasured clothing item
I love getting lucky and finding really old, quality garments at thrift stores. I once found three Pringle of Scotland double knit cashmere sweaters in a Manhattan charity thrift store.
I have a wrap cardigan of my mom's from the 70s and a linen shirt and pants set from the 90s. Both are higher quality than what is generally available today.
I have a pair of suede shoes I bought in Spain in 1997 - still in great condition. They were not expensive, either. It boggles my mind.
@@jeannekstrole6891 I want to buy at thrift stores more often but somehow everything there get's more and more expensive and I don't understand why. Quite often you can buy cheaper new clothes at H&M or Dorothy Perkins rather than thrift stores, it's weird.
I wear my husband's wool jumper from the 90s, it still looks new and I love the oversized fit, very cosy! 😁
I own a consignment and resale shop. Available are a handful of stunning vintage pieces. There's no comparison when it comes to quality. Personally, I've created a uniform for myself. With research, most staples have been bought second hand, making higher end brands more accessible and affordable. Thanks to you both. My time was well spent.
It is also worth noting that many so called designer labels or higher end companies also manufacture their products in unsafe factories and with overuse of petrol based fibers.
I remember clothes from when i was growing up in the 2000s. Fabrics were mostly only cotton, they were thicker, buttons were sturdier, there was a lot more attention to detail. These days it's hard to find a good quality, long-lasting piece at a regular mall.
Sometimes I get so surprised seeing cheap prices in stores in the U.S. I grew up in Pakistan where we had a huge tailoring culture. With the price of fabric (which used to be pure, though now synthetic is making its way), and lining, beads, lace and stitching, the final product comes out to be significant. But that also meant that we did not get too many clothes made in a year nor did we discard our clothes till they came apart. However, this did not include marketing and shipping transport costs that clothes have in America. Yet they are so cheap. Cheaply stitched and poor fabric.
It’s interesting the thing she mentioned about necklines lying flat. I noticed several years ago that tops with a substantial collar last much longer and look higher quality. But even in some more “high quality” stores, I see clothing where the collar flips over and shows the lining.
I recently sewed a shirt with an actual collar stand. It gave me a hard time but it looks great.
I live in a country where handwashing and line drying is the norm but I chuckled at responding to time strapped moms that they do have time to switch up their laundry practices. I would have said the same pre kids but having kids humbles you and it's a shock to the system how much of a struggle it is to find time for many things
This was the first point in the video that tripped me up too! I was looking to see if anyone else mentioned this… I don’t even have kids and I find it hard… I think about my mum who loves line drying and would guard the dryer with her life… but when push came to shove, it went in the dryer 😂 I live in a small place in a cooler climate, in the winter it almost feels like you don’t have much of a choice, especially if you don’t want the heater running all the time… I guess it’s more about being mindful, I have to get past my resistance and try to take her advice on board… but I totally agree! 😊
I grew up line drying in Ireland. Now I live in an apartment and we're not allowed to dry our clothes on the balcony (ridiculous) so my sitting room is often filled with our 3 clothes horses pushed up to the windows to get the sunshine : )
We have so many people who can’t afford rent. In Canada when I look at sustainable brands the clothes only look good on stick thin people. No nice form fitting cotton tops for people like me who are barely 5’2” with a pear shape. Wearing baggy tops look horrendous on someone like me. The tops are like $135 dollars. Finding pants is a nightmare. I don’t wear dresses or skirts in the winter because it’s bloody cold and I’ve never been able to comfortably wear nylons or the slightly improved lighter tights.
Yeah, love Justine but that was a hilariously naive point
In Australia most of us wash & line dry, dryers are not seen as essential. When we use them, it is to 'finish off' after they have been on the line & they are cold, slightly damp, or it's going to rain!
I really enjoyed this conversation and appreciated Justine’s suggestions of how we can make shopping more ethically work regardless of how much we earn. Also the discussion of how to not pass on our own exploitation and instead foster a sense of community was very elegantly articulated. What an important mindset. Thanks for a great episode 👏
Justine is amazing. Have watched her channel for the last 3 years at least. Such a sane voice in the fashion world.
I sew and I love it. A lot of people do not understand the value and skill that goes into it. I guess it's hard to see the true value when fast fashion cheapens it all. I feel like factory workers have been dehumanized by their employers and the consumer and its so sad.
Love Justine’s channel! Great collab. The point she made about shopping brands and designers that cater to markets with similar body types as you… WOW. What a lightbulb moment. Of course I should be looking at Latin American designers who are used to cutting clothes to fit bodies with curves. Eye-opening.
I'm from Brazil. The harsh reality is that unless you buy from high end designers, most clothes here come from China and are very weird fitting for Brazilian bodies. Also, no functional pockets on women's clothes.
I just bough a lot of clothes on a trip to the US, both in second hand stores and in discount clothes stores because they are better quality for the same price. Maybe it is just because clothes dryers are prevalent in the US and clothes are made to withstand this.
Yes, and I know from experience she's 100% correct. I'm a tall lady of Scandinavian heritage who has spent a fair amount of time living in Mediterranean countries. I quickly learned to pack all the clothing and shoes I could possibly need, since not one thing in the stores fit! They're all just so petite. Even in the UK it was tough to find clothing as a slender 19 year old. I tried to go to Scandinavia to shop, but it's so expensive there I couldn't even afford the flight and one night in a hotel. Probably would have been fantastic.
@@lesleyegbert4807 I live in Northern Germany, am 5' and wear a cup G - I just gave up and started sewing all of my clothes myself. Yes, it takes time but there just is no brand in the world who makes clothes for my body so I have no choice than getting them tailored or doing it myself.
@@nriamond8010 Oh, no! To be petite and curvy in that part of Europe must be tough!
Bro same! It sounds so obvious now she’s said it but it really isn’t. I totally relate to feeling huge in France, sizes run small and short, I definitely need to look at Scandinavian designers. I’ve found independent polish designers are really great quality too, but I do need to budget for it.
So glad you interviewed Justine! Her Chanel is a great source to learn about sustainably produced garments.
Her channel too :)
I love Justine's content. I think this video is relevant for any age group or price point. I see many young women who dont care about trends they wear what they want including lots of vintage
I thoroughly enjoyed this segment! Having had the luxury of experiencing "slow fashion" as an older millennial ('80s), I've been witness to the drastic decline of quality clothing. I still have pieces from my late parents' wardrobes that I will forever cherish. It was fascinating to learn about the boxy garment "trends" that brands implement in order to cut corners. I never would've put two and two together!
I, too, have become mindful about cost per wear when making a purchase and also implement a one in/one out philosophy when spending. Although I haven't yet mastered a capsule wardrobe, one takeaway was to reduce my closet 50% and be intentional about future investments. This was fantastic - a much needed conversation!
My mom has some sweaters from Land's End and tops from Ann Taylor from the early 90s she still wears, and they are such high quality!! The sweaters are thicker than ones I've bought from high end stores! And Ann Taylor now is so cheap and flimsy, I was shocked the last time I tried to shop there.
Justine Leconte is so fabulous - knowledgeable, creative, business minded, intelligent and ethical. And she speaks at least 3 languages!
Thanks for having her on, very interesting interview.
As for clothing, I'm old enough i used to dress make in the '70s and '80s. I thought of returning to it recently as it's so hard to find standard, classical, properly fitted, properly sewn clothes in decent fabrics nowadays - at any price! But the fabrics being sold in stores now has also gone badly downhill.
As for people not knowing quality - yes, people are buying rubbishy sewn garments because they don't know what decent stitching, fit or fabric seam matching even looks like any more.
The tip about looking for clothing brands from different countries based on average body type there is honestly so smart and helpful if you're tall or short compared to most others where you live
What she said about high heels and sneakers is indeed correct. My employer is also encouraging people to wear sneakers to work. It encourages people to be more active during their work day. We do walking lunches, catch ups and sneakers do definitely make it easier.
And to be honest heels are terrible for your feet. The first job where I had to wear some I got plantar fasciitis from them in one foot. I didn't even know what plantar fasciitis was. But I soon discovered it it painful as heck! It was so terrible. As a tall girl I don't need them and don't want them! Nobody needs to be wearing them. They should only ever be optional. We can still look classy in a well made flat or other nice shoe.
YES! I’m so glad you were able to get Justine on this channel, what a great pairing up of 2 of my favorite YT channels ❤️
Yes! I love Justine!! Been watch her channel for years. She’s great at presenting information in an informative and entertaining manner.
Thank you for having Justine Leconte on to talk about sustainable wardrobe strategies! It's like a meeting of the minds! Love both of your bodies of work. Cost per wear is a big take away for building an ethical wardrobe.
I would love to buy more vintage and thrift clothes. It’s hard when you’re plus size. There’s a terrific vintage store here in town, but everything is so small. I even want to support small/slow fashion labels, but again it’s hard when everything is made for a smaller size. I get it, fabric is expensive and it takes more to make a larger size. I am trying to buy less clothes and I do try to get stuff tailored more rather than discarding it. And I try to mix high end quality clothes with fast fashion brands. I find if I give myself a cooling off period and I read the reviews I can make mindful purchases.
I will say this though it’s not only the fast fashion brands that aren’t being ethical, there are plenty of high end fashion houses that throw stuff away to create demand. And clothes are just not made as great as they used to be.
Same! I'm plus size, curvy, and short lmao. It's really hard to find clothes that fit the trifecta, and I occasionally end up buying fast fashion clothes because they look like they'd work for me (and I can return them if they don't). But more often, I try things on in store and then find them later on secondhand apps like Poshmark, Depop or Ebay. Or I'll get things tailored / alter it myself if I can. The apps are nice because I don't drive and my city doesn't have great transit, so dragging myself to secondhand stores in-person without any guarantee of success feels like a chore :|
I’m on the other end of the spectrum being very small and have the same issue with sustainable brands. It’s not economical for most of them to have sizes outside of average range. I even have the same issue with shoes. It really is quite frustrating.
As a very tall lady, I feel your pain when it comes to vintage clothing. So much of it is awesome and so little of it fits. It's just a sea of unintentional 3/4 sleeve blazers as far as the eye can see...
Even 20 years ago people in general were smaller.
I wear exclusively thrifted or homemade clothing. I have found GREAT fabrics at thrift stores for as little as under $1 per yard. I look for: cotton shower curtains, table cloths, bedding, curtains, etc; as well as yardage. Even if it's just suitable for nightgowns or aprons, it's another category of clothing I don't have to pay retail for. Also, I shop mainly at small, local charity shops - a quick Google search can turn up these independent stores, that are not part of a national thrift store conglomerate. I love knowing where my money is going, can find well-made natural-fiber clothing, and opens my creativity to the possibilities that are there if I use my imagination.
I am so grateful for my mom sewing watching her sew and being around fabrics - I wasn’t into as a teen but it’s invaluable as an adult . Thanks Mom ❤
So excited to see Justine! I adore her. I stopped all my gap, banana republic etc shopping after watching her talk about fast fashion
Buying a sewing machine and learning to sew solves many wardrobe problems. You can use top quality fabrics, custom fit your body, and sew any era you want, using vintage patterns or re-released patterns for vintage styles. You can decide how long your skirts will be and nobody will have the same garments because they are totally unique. 😊
I literally thought I was clicking on Justine’s video, but was so happy when I put it all together.
She RULES!!
I really liked how she asked Chelsea how she would answer that question when she wasn't sure. That was really smart. Loved this convo!♡ big fan of both channels♡
Justine is the one opening my eyes about fast fashion 😊 it make sense you have her on your channel. In end of day we are spending more money with fast fashion and this is my philosophy now
I agree with everything stated, one problem though, if you are outside the "normal" size range (I'm 5f 10in, size 16, 11 shoe) thrifting is nearly impossible, sustainable brands have limited sizing and vintage ha. So unfortunately its fast fashion jeans for me cause finding a 34 inseam outside of old navy is a treasure hunt.
It takes PAAAAAAAAATIENCE!!! It has taken me 2 years to replace pants by shopping in thrift stores (34" inseam). I also shop secondhand online, but you can't check for quality in the same way. I'd recommend secondhand, older (when quality was better) tall Levi's, Gap, J Crew, Banana Republic, Land's End, LL Bean, Eddie Bauer & Ann Taylor for office & adult casual wear in tall plus sizes.
On the other hand as a tall person, I do not buy much and wear my items to the end of their lifespan...this is also working towards sustainability😊
I'm 5'9" thrifting for a mommy small pooch with hip dip in size 6 pants is like pulling out my hair. Even finding shoes in size usa women's 11 is a nightmare even new! I've a feeling Scandinavian clothes would fit better. But I can't afford to ship stuff to the usa
@@ifetayodavidson-cade561334" inseam is terribly hard to find! Especially in my area. I'm of Scandinavian decent and every thing that is made for the women in my area is for women under 5'6" and plump.
Crazy mashup! I’ve been following you both separately for years! Justine is such a breath of fresh air in fashion content.
I remember buying from Zara in the 2000s and I had a pair of corduroy trousers that I wore all the time until I gave them away because I lost weight and didn't fit anymore. Thinking of those trousers, I bought another pair also from Zara years later, they didn't last a year before the fabric wore out in places. I also experienced how clothes became smaller and smaller, the same size in 2002 was way smaller in 2010. I had my 2002 clothes, all the clothes bought in 2010 and after disintegrated quickly. Now I try to make my own clothes or buy second hand. Fast fashion is the worst.
I've watched Justine for years. So glad you got her on your channel. She has such a way of explaining what id going on and driving the fashion industry so that the average lay person can understand.
While I can't afford the clothes promoted in this channel, I shop local and try to not shop in fast fashion like Shein. Shein's clothes feel uncomfortable to wear anyway (tried to buy clothes online only realizing that the store is a Shein reseller) so while I don't know whether all the clothes I own don't have forced labor to it, hopefully buying local helps the local economy and better the lives of the local seamstress sewing those clothes.
This is so good! Re washing though - experiment when you can. A lot of things manufacturers say can’t be washed like leather, sequin, silk, lace can be hand washed or machine washed in 30 degrees. I wear a ridiculous amount of sequence and wash all of it.
I love Justine’s channel. I’ve learned so much from her over the years. It also helps that my hubby is not from the US so already had many of the things she teaches embedded in his upbringing. We have a child and we do not have a dryer. We haven’t used a dryer for over a decade (stopped in college) not only do my clothes last longer but they look better. So, with diligent planning (folding laundry now while watching this so I can hang the next load that is currently washing).
The other thing I learned many years ago before TH-cam was about fabrics. Synthetics make me sweat like crazy. I have always gravitated towards the wools, cashmeres, and silks even when I couldn’t afford. Now there are brands like Grana or Quince where it’s not unaffordable (don’t know about their ethics though). It’s possible to take care of your clothes without it being terribly overwhelming.
Two of everybody's favorite ladies. I'm lucky enough to be old and didn't grow up with fast fashion. I grew up as a child in the fifties and sixties and seventies and remember when clothes were really great quality and well made. Quality began to deteriorate in the mid seventies when much of our manufacturing began to go overseas and has gone down ever since. I remember when shoes came in many widths . Now they are made with cheaper labor higher prices and fewer options. I think one thing to ask when we consider buying something is whether we really love an item of clothing. Sometimes waiting two weeks or more to see if something is still in our mind is a good strategy. Another thing is do items of clothing fit our lifestyle and work for the environment we live in. I think the French idea of quality over quantity is something we as Americans can and should adapt.
As someone who grew up in the 2000s that’s crazy to think about. I think of a lot of stuff from the 90s and 2000s as being pretty high quality! At least compared to what’s available now
A very good point about the shoes. I have also noticed how hard it is to find quality shoes. My pet peeve is those awful soles that are moulded.
@@notaclue822Yes, and the tacky velcro closures on expensive shoes. Sheesh, just use buckles for pete's sake!
@@notaclue822Try Gino Rossi and Lasocki in CCC
I live in Chile, where the majority of people are poor, and a thin strata of people are very wealthy. For people here H&M is not fast fashion. They use the clothes until they fall apart. They can't afford anything more. Having said that we also have 'ferias' which are markets that sell fruit/veg and second hand clothes from other countries (mainly US and some UK). The sellers buy the bales of clothes from abroad (mostly things that haven't sold in charity shops or thrift stores) and resell. These clothes are much cheaper than even H&M. There is a mix of rubbish in there and also quite a few very good quality little worn gems....Ralph Lauren, Talbot, Free People etc. You have to look though and nothing is organized it is just in big piles. A lot of people shop here out of necessity not because they have the luxury of caring about the environment. It should be pointed out that SHEIN clothes NEVER resell because they are crap quality. So it is true these clothes really do end up in the desert in a massive disgusting tip here. The quality clothes resell. Some expensive brands I have noticed are not great quality...yes Free People I am calling out here.
Ugh I feel like I should apologize as a US citizen!!!! I hate that our trash ends up in other countries. 😢 I do what I can to consume less but it’s still awful.
OMG I cannot believe Justine is on here! This is fantastic! 🎉 Thanks to Justine I've been buying most of my clothes secondhand in the last 3 yrs.
Chelsea made such a excellent point about the scarcity mentality and individualism! And Justine's point about brands brainwashing you into entitlement as well. It saddens me so much when I see people justifying buying fast fashion with "but I also deserve cute outfits even though I'm poor/struggle to find my size" - cause like... Do you? You deserve clothing, of course!! But is all of what you want truly a need? Are there truly no alternatives, or is it just more inconvenient? In an ideal world there would be ethical cute outfits available for everyone, but you have to sometimes sacrifice your own desires or convenience if you want to maintain your integrity and solidarity with other people who are also struggling - if you want a humane society to persist in the world of capitalism. A lot of people don't like to hear that, bc it sucks to compromise on your own desires! But two wrongs don't make a right.
I think my frustration with this justification is the lack of connecting to the people who are extremely poorly paid who make the clothes. Yes, clothes are expensive and sometimes when you're poor and trying to find work you end up having to find cheap options because your job requires a clothing item you don't own (I've been there) and can barely afford the cheap version of. But, also, your choices are actively keeping others in poverty unable to afford a variety of necessities. It's frustrating to see the argument of income being made and yet no acknowledgement of how cheap, fast fashion creates poverty and prevents people from having quality clothing by chasing profit above all.
The thrift stores are full of garbage and the stores in my area are full of higher priced garbage. Sometimes the thrift stores are basically the same price as discount retailers like Ross and Marshall's. The trouble is that we get desperate when things change in our lives rapidly and buy whatever is good enough just to get by.
Do you have any decent consignment stores near you? More expensive than Goodwill but also pickier about what they take.
Some cities have better thrifting than others. It may be worth a little road trip with friends!
I had to replace my entire wardrobe last year, not out of desire but out of necessity because I lost all of my belongings in a fire. It's been kind of a grueling process, because I'd like to be more mindful of my choices but I've also had to make some quick decisions in the following days and weeks (like buying shitty H&M pieces on the day of the fire because I needed something quick, had no change of clothes and was on a tight insurance budget) and it's been bugging me ever since. I'd love to buy more secondhand stuff, but like mentioned here, it's tough when you're not a "standard" size in most clothes. I have extremely specific measurements for pants and jeans that I've never been able to find in thrift stores, so I've had to really just buy whatever actually fit me.
Look into tailoring. It can be an affordable way to get second hand good quality that almost fit. They can make areas small but not “usually “ larger. There are tricks that can make garment looser, but it’s tricky.
Wow. That must have been really hard. Sending you love and support.
Great collaboration! I also don't spin my clothes, my mom gave me weird looks, but my clothes are so much better off that way! Also a material that should be mentioned is hemp! Recently bought two dresses made from hemp and I am in love! Very durable, solid fabric. I also recently switched to a more quality, basic-focused wardrobe and noticed my anxiety in terms of clothing had really gone down and subsided. Now I focus on higher quality, more basic garments that I know I will use and will fit with most of my garments.
Agree about hemp basics. Hemp has a nice drape and feel. I find that the spin cycle in the big front loader washers at the laundromat seems ok, but the top loaders seem to get clothes all twisted and gnarly during a spin.
@@BC-np8cb I knew about hemp clothing before but this is the first time I've actually gotten my hands on any. I usually wash my clothes in the 400 spin cycle, at least now during the summer. We will see how the winter will be and how fast the clothes dry 🥰
OMGI LOVE JUSTINE! Been watching her for years and I love how thoughtful and level-headed she is
We had beautiful-quality clothes in the 80s and early 90s. Suiting was always 100% wool, lined with rayon, which I love because it’s breathable, unlike polyester. Blouses were cotton or silk, jeans were 100% cotton. I wish I had saved more items from then. I was forced into early retirement because of an injury, and thought I wouldn’t miss my blazers, etc., but I did, after I got rid of them. When I tried to buy similar items after 2005, that quality wasn’t available at any price. They say NAFTA is at least partly responsible for the degradation of fashion, because it allows outsourcing to developing countries without environmental or labor laws.
I think she was referring to moth balls, not cedar, when she said it was toxic. Cedar is a great moth repellent and is natural and not toxic…and smells great!
Naphthalene... Smells gross
I’ve been following Justine for awhile now, so glad to see her on TFD
I think the scarcity discussion needs to be expanded in general.
I am working on an inventory of my clothing and I realize that I have dome excesses that I buy on repeat because I worry about running out.
The other side of that is hitting up thrift stores and sites to buy things that are affordable but well made.
This is a very thought-provoking video by two of my favorite content creators, Justine and Chelsea. I am fascinated by the idea of buying high quality clothing, but less clothing, to save money, the environment and to promote sustainable and humane industry practices. I have a lot in my closet, too much, but many of my older items have been worn hundreds of times. I am going to try Justine’s recommendation to shop second-hand.
Sewing definitely makes a difference to how I understand a quality garment (lucky to have been taught to sew as a teenager); and the popularity of shows like Sewing Bee means that good/interesting fabric is readily available. What sewing for oneself ISN'T is cheap. I reckon I spend similar on the fabric for a garment that I might have on buying a completed equivalent garment (and from somewhere like M&S/Monsoon/Boden, so not that cheap). And yes, I enjoy putting in linings, high quality enclosed seam finishes etc., (all of which help a garment to last longer).
Also sewing for yourself the clothes look better because it was made for your body
I love how there is so much cross-fertilization between the content creators I watch. This interview was wonderful. Justine is an excellent guest.
Great conversation! I remember as a child my Mom would spend 70 for pants which was going rate in the 80s. These pants were 100 natural fibres fully line and fit perfectly. The shop would send the pants out to make sure they fit. Her pants were the same classic cut on offer today-they were made in Montreal and lasted 10 to 15 years minimum. Her tops were silk blouses, wool blazers and wool sweaters. She always looked lovely. She had few clothes that she could interchange. I started knitting in 2016. I am currently working on a kid silk mohair sweater that will last me a lifetime in cream. I could not afford to purchase this sweater in a shop even if I could find it. I started sewing again 2 years ago. I make all my own clothes because I was sick of the horrible quality and the uneasy feeling in my stomach wondering about what poor soul was abused to make it. I can source 100 per cent natural fibres that are made to the highest organic standards are quality and in colours that suit me. I can still make a pair of pants for the fraction of what it costs. If u have any interest learn to make your own clothes! I have a family and a full time job I fit it in 30 mins here and hour there just as grand,others and great grandmothers did 😊
Very impressive guest. She seems very smart and authoritative, and I think I learned more than usual. I like how she kind of skirted around the vegans a bit until asked point-blank about vegan "leather" lol.
I feel like men's clothing has been a bit more resistant to fast fashion because men tend to not value the act of shopping that highly, and many even go to great lengths to avoid it (e.g. buying more durable clothing but also buying multiples when we find something we like), but the quality of men's clothing has been declining, too. One of these days, it's going to drive me to start sewing.
"Vegan leather" seems like an odd concept, since real leather is a by-product of the meat industry which, if not used for shoes, belts, coats and furniture, would simply be trash. Of course, it is cheaper. Fur is different, as the animals did not have a primary purpose.
This was a great interview with Justine! I learned so much. For a few years now, I have been noticing certain brands (i.e., Old Navy, the Loft, etc.) selling these ugly boxy dresses and sweaters and could never understand why this look is fashionable, since it looks horrible on most women. Last winter, I bought two sweaters from Old Navy's website that looked amazing on the model, and when I tried them on at home, they were too short in length, had really short arms (my arms are on the shorter side so this was crazy), and they were so wide, I felt I should have ordered a size smaller. I had actually measured myself before ordering, so I thought I may have made a mistake. Now I know that they were purposely made that way, and I'm really disappointed to know the truth.
Yeah, I purchased a bunch of sundresses last year from Old Navy and most of them look like nightgowns. I kept them to wear around the house, but I’m also disappointed to find out so much truth
Fair, and I am not defending shitty fast fashion practices here, but I disagree a little bit on "it looks horrible on most women". Some folks enjoy unconventional fits even if they aren't "flattering" by society's standards, and I would hope that ethical fashion options would exist for those of us who do :P
@@neb-03 Idk, I like loose clothes as they are comfy but they make me look so much heavier and when I wear them I feel like shit. It's almost impossible to find form fitting clothes.... Most of everything I see is just a hanging curtain....
@@mpGreen03 I get it, I really do, but over time I've found it helpful to deconstruct the idea that flattering = skinnier / smaller. I love both baggy clothes and form fitting clothes, but as a fat person I'm sick and tired of oft repeated rules like "don't wear horizontal stripes/baggy clothes/short hairstyles/bodycon dresses" etc. We are allowed to dislike how things look on our body and also other people's bodies - but I'd be wary of blanket statements like "boxy clothes look horrible on all women".
On another note, I hear a lot of complaints from folks about the rise of the crop top, and how it's difficult to find tops that cover the full torso. On the other hand, I have a short torso and for the first time in my life I can find tops that don't require me to tuck them in 😂I guess no trend works for everyone.
Excellent! Justine Leconte doesn't hide behind half answers, half truths. In addition to her other skills and talents, Justine Leconte is a fine researcher. Fine and fearless. Thank you for combining your knowledge and awareness with that of Justine Leconte's in this vital conversation.
I already love her! Followed! I think I’m convinced: no more fast fashion.
I am learning to knit and sew. And as I changed to my Autumn clothing I set aside things I love in theory (eg a thrifted silk blouse) but never wear. Identified why I don't wear it (it is too long) and now I am altering it to see if it will make me wear it ❤
Great interview!! I've been watching Justine for YEARS!!! Her tips and videos on determining your shape and size so the clothes you buy compliment you, as well as keeping us aware of the industry is free education everyone should invest in. Her channel and knowledge was a game changer to not just my wardrobe but to how I shop as a consumer in general.
Between Justine's channel and TFD my life with money, sustainability and all over creative inspiration has been much improved over the years and this video was to me, what a Taylor Swift concert is to Swifties!! Thank you so much!!😊😊❤❤
I so enjoyed this! I love both of your channels and have been watching Justine since she only had about 20,000 subscribers. As I’ve gotten older, I am 56 now, I have gravitated towards higher quality clothing. I thought the problem was because of my body changes happening, that my clothes were lying differently on me and didn’t look as good. At first I was attributing this to not having my 20/ 30-year-old body anymore, and then I realized it really is the quality, the thickness of the fabric, the weave or the small details that were making the clothing not look as good on me. this in turn has caused me to purchase less items.
I pick my own trends that are classic and universal to my alternative lifestyle. I'm currently into button down tops with jeans for work and going out, while tshirt and plain pajama pants for at home wear. I also love coridor (sorry for typo) fabrics because they last long and purchase items from eBay that are from respectable company that practice fair trade. Ebay and Etsy have amazing fair trade, ethical clothing that aren't even that expensive and allows you to collect over time so you build your wardrobe over time while using what you already have till they are rags and then you use them fabrics as cleaning rags. That is what I use my stuff for.
I feel so fortunate to have stumbled upon Justine's you tube channel a few years ago. Her content is always thought provoking. Great discussion today.
Love! Justine is incredibly insightful while still being funny and relatable 😘
You two win for two of the most articulate, informed, intelligent, relevant, and ethical content producers I've ever seen on any of the available media 🥰🤩 Bonjour and Hello from Vancouver ❤🤍❤
This was such a great episode! Thank you for having Justine as a guest. That answer from Chelsey to that last question about affordable ethical fashion resonated with me. Thank you!
For Flocks Sake! I just got an ad for Shein while watching this video. Way to read the room, TH-cam!
So happy to hear two favourite women bloggers in 1 podcast
My mother taught, drilled, me and my sisters to stay with the classic styles in a Good fabric and cuts... Her mother (my granny) and her sisters (my grand aunts) were the town seamstresses... To this day, my sisters and I have always stayed with the classic cuts and styles.... Quiet luxury on a sale budget....
Encouraging sustainable habits among young(er) people has a great payoff, because that could mean tons of clothes that they don't buy due to a different mindset. It's something that I think about as I do post-death decluttering for my parents.
39:00 She's talking about mothballs, which are synthetic chemicals. Cedar (cedar chests/blocks) are fine.
Thank you for interviewing Justine! I have been following here for some time. She’s wonderfully informed.
The thing that nobody talking about is the high quality but expensive clothing, styling and it's connection to weight management. You have to maintain your average weight eating healthy, be active to be able to wear your wadrobe elements for decades.i think it is easier for european and asian woman with traditional diet, better quality food materials, social pressure -there is a healthy level of that too- and overall more active lifestyle. It's key.
Agreed! A stable weight makes a huge difference in being able to wear the same clothes for years.
Many other cultures traditional clothing especially for women are more adjustable like wraps and not skin tight so they fit over a longer period of time even with weight gain or loss.
@@Cat-nf9bh That is forward thinking and sustainable! I am old enough to have realized in the late 1990s that mall stores were making clothes with stretch to avoid proper tailoring. They also sometimes make clothes oversized to avoid proper tailoring.
@@Cat-nf9bh yes,I know they can be sewn adjustable to a certain level. But no "traditional clothing", that is actually wearable and not unpractical by modern standards can hide 8-10 extra kilos...
I totally agree with you. Historically when fabric was home made and very time consuming, there were no clothe sizes. Women could wear their underskirts, dresses, tops, skirts and aprons whatever their shape whether they were pregnant or not. The secret : no buttons, no tailoring, large clothes which could be made any size using shirring and gathering. This remains true in some cultures : kimonos, saris, etc. It is possible that in the US this is also the case for Amish women, I do not know.
Sewing is a very rewarding hobby. Don’t buy, do it yourself!
I knit and crochet. I need to develop my sewing skills more. Sew your own clothes and I love finding things in second hand stores that can be altered or repurposed with sewing.
It's rewarding but also extremely time consuming
It also makes you appreciate why quality clothing cannot be too cheap, and once you start investing into quality materials, even if it is not cheaper than buying, it does last longer.
@@syeinaWell, not in comparison to knitting. I actually stopped knitting and started sewing as I became a mother. I need two evenings for a garment with a average complexity (shirt, simple dress…). For kids sweatpants I make about three on a afternoon, now :) I think it’s less time consuming than shopping for the exact thing you need or want. But I want to get better at sewing, too. I never made something like a nicer dress or denims. I learn most from repairing garments.
YES-fnally! I was waiting for this topic for a long time-thank you! I recently started falling in love with vintage fashion- and I believe vintage shopping is the BEST SOLUTION for my wallet, the planet, and for the unique style I can create for myself without being dressed the same as everybody else. I have a few beautiful pieces and I wear them quite a bit, and get a lot of compliments about them, and I want to learn more about how to shop for vintage. thank you, thank you!
Oh my goodness, loving this collaboration already ! So happy to see Justine here !
Thanks
Thank you very much for this channel and this particular episode with Justine LeConte. Re: sizing, Justine’s suggestion of seeking clothing from a region in the world where the female norm most closely matches your body size and shape. When I lived in South Africa, I came across very well made clothing from German designers that probably dated back to the 80’s. Really high quality fabrics and construction - larger pattern cuts than French - as well as ample fabric in the seams to allow a customer to let out the item if needed, especially for pants and skirts. Just a few decades later, we would NEVER find any extra fabric on a garment. I also appreciated some of these brands because I knew that German consumers were conservative with their money and insisted on quality and durability way over trendy, flighty “fashion.” But these brands did not survive once “fashion” became profitable for corporations, or else their quality plummeted, or they became staples in bargain basic outlet stores.
oh yeah you rarely find a garment regardless of the cost with enough in the seam to let out, even if it has taping. Almost always have to go up a size or a few and have things sized down instead.
What a great interview - as always Justine is so informative and so clear with breaking things down.
So much of my wardrobe is comprised of high quality vintage handed-me-down items or the same purchased in thrift and consignment shops. I do buy new socks and underwear, and leggings and tights.
As I like having art on my walls to enjoy and fine dishes in my China cabinet to use and enjoy seeing; I also enjoy seeing and looking at the special clothing well-fitting, high quality vintage items, including shoes, in my closet snd drawers. I buy only vintage swimsuits and Own many. If I “need” a specific item for a special occasion I look for it in a thrift shop. If I don’t find it I make do with something I already have. I love the clothing I have.
There is a book called Cheap: The High Cost of Discount Culture by Ruppell Shell. She covered many of the topics covered today including the food and furniture industry.
The lost of quality of our clothing is one of the reasons our clothes don’t have pockets , dresses don’t have sleeves, clothing isn’t lined anymore. Seams aren’t finished, there are no hems and children pants don’t have working flys -you can’t save children’s clothing to hand down because they barely make it a season with one child.
Not to mention no darts. Clothing is two simple flat pieces sewn together and whose body is built like Flat Stanley?
Yay! You interviewed Justine, her chanel is amazing, very focused on sustaintability and quality of garments over quantity.
Thank you for this feature that raises so many vital points that we all need to engage with. I would like to contribute to the discussion with the suggestion of finding a good tailor or seamtress (apologies if these terms are gendered). This supports local crafts people while opening up possibilities for re-shaping and re-sizing vintage and second-hand items as well as repairing and altering existing garments. I am very pleased to see that repair techniques, such as Sashiko, have become popular, and where I live there are classes and courses in repairing and re-fitting garments. I have been watching Justine’s videos for a number of years and am inspired by her passion and commitment … waiting for her to start a menswear line! Thanks again for great content!
I follow Justine for a very long time now... someone to hear about not only this topic!
Justine and Chelsea... two of my favorite women on TH-cam! Great conversation!
So glad Justine did the interview. Such a beautiful intro Chelsey. A great topic.