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Ray, your analysis of the corroded B+ wire on the alternator is not quite correct, originally we saw the nator putting out like 90A, and after you added the new wire, you had 30A on the new wire and 40A on the old one. You concluded this means there was high resistance on the original wire, stopping the nator putting out its full output. This is not how electricity works, with 2 wires, the amperage would split pretty evenly over both wires, just as we saw. Had the original wire really been corroded badly, you would have gotten negligible amperage on the old wire, and most of it flowing on the new wire. We saw an almost 50/50 split, with actually more current on the old 'corroded' wire, meaning it was actually *lower|* resistance compared to the new wire you added! Even though the original wire looks bad, and in the future could pose a problem, it certainly doesn't warrant replacing as a 'fix' for the low battery charge condition!
Chevrolet TSB 07-06-03-009C Make: Chevrolet Number: 07-06-03-009C Title: Information On Voltmeter Gauge Fluctuation Due To Regulated Voltage Control System And Concerns About Camper/Trailer Battery Charging Date: 1/16/2015 Models: 2007-2013 Avalanche 2005-2006 Avalanche 1500 2005-2006 Avalanche 2500 2005-2007 Cab & Chassis Silverado 3500 2007-2012 Cab & Chassis Silverado 3500 HD 2005-2012 Silverado 1500 2005-2006 Silverado 1500 HD 2013 Silverado 1500 Hybrid 2013 Silverado 1500 LS 2013 Silverado 1500 LT 2013 Silverado 1500 LTZ 2013 Silverado 1500 WT 2013 Silverado 1500 XFE 2005-2012 Silverado 2500 HD 2013-2014 Silverado 2500 HD LT 2013-2014 Silverado 2500 HD LTZ 2013-2014 Silverado 2500 HD WT 2005-2006 Silverado 3500 2007-2012 Silverado 3500 HD 2013-2014 Silverado 3500 HD LT 2013-2014 Silverado 3500 HD LTZ 2013-2014 Silverado 3500 HD WT 2007 Silverado Classic 1500 2007 Silverado Classic 1500 HD 2007 Silverado Classic 2500 HD 2007 Silverado Classic 3500 2014 Suburban 1500 LS 2014 Suburban 1500 LT 2014 Suburban 1500 LTZ 2005-2013 Suburban C1500 2005-2013 Suburban C2500 2005-2013 Suburban K1500 2005-2013 Suburban K2500 2005-2012 Tahoe 2008-2013 Tahoe Hybrid 2013-2014 Tahoe LS 2013-2014 Tahoe LT 2013-2014 Tahoe LTZ 2012-2014 Tahoe PPV 2012-2014 Tahoe SSV Summary: Some customers may comment that the voltmeter is fluctuating between 12 and 14 volts on their full size pickup or utility vehicle. Starting with the 2005 model year, light duty full size pickups and utilities are equipped with a Regulated Voltage Control (RVC) system. This system reduces the targeted output of the generator to 12.6-13.1 volts when in "Fuel Economy Mode" to improve fuel economy. The generator may exit "Fuel Economy Mode" if additional voltage is required. This will cause the voltmeter to fluctuate between 12 and 14 volts as opposed to non-regulated systems that usually maintain a more consistent reading of 14 volts. This fluctuation with the RVC system is normal system operation and NO repairs should be attempted. This informational bulletin adds 2011 - 2014 model years to information on voltmeter gauge fluctuation due to regulated voltage control system and concerns about camper/trailer battery charging.
Just a suggestion for next time .... take a proper fitting bolt and cut it down to make a plug for the hole. Grind the head down where it is roughly 1/8" tall. Insert the newly made plug into the hole, then weld the plug to the exhaust manifold. This will reduce the chance of getting welding splatter in the turbo unit and save time because you won't have to work at filling the hole with weld.
I too, am not a welder. Yet, this was the solution that came to mind before Ray ever started talking about how he was going to do this. 😋 That said, now after watching, I think he came up with a reasonable repair.
Same Idea here (Not A welder but seen a lot of it). Use a flange head bolt, grind off the threads to just enough to be seated in the hole, then weld away.
3-4 hours to replace a heater hose is a sign of bad engineering in my opinion. You always do your best to take care of your customers while maintaining a highly level of quality. We need more guys like you around, Ray.
First rule of welding cast iron is it needs to be preheated before welding. I have welded cast iron before many times successfully, but preheating it just gives it a better chance of survival.
I give you all the props in the world for trying to weld that cast iron manifold up. I wouldn't attempt it. I think another valid repair would tap it for pipe thread and put a plug in her.
You got to love those dirty installations! The correct way to run dual car batteries is to use a diode isolator. Tying two or more batteries directly together requires that all of them are at equal life and chemistry, otherwise you have an imbalance. A diode isolator not only allows the alternator to charge both batteries at the same time, but a smart isolator will split the charge based on each battery's needs. Proper solar installations use deep cycle batteries that are designed to directly connect in series and parallel. Car batteries, not so much. Yes, all of this rant is from many years of experience in automotive and electrical.
My motor home has two 8D batteries, one for the engine and the other for the "house" and it uses a diode isolator which works quite well. It can be a pain to trouble shoot when one goes bad though.
What a wizard. The Rainman was at his best in this one. And he still got a cameo appearance from the Wife Unit. This is a Best of The Rainman for sure.
Depending on the vehicle's wiring you may have bypassed the alternator fuse by installing that jumper. My F-150 has a 90 amp fuse in the alternator to battery harness. Also you could have disconnected the negatives to avoid the chance of a short while working on the positive lead. Nice job overall!
I bought a new 2003 Dodge Ram with the Cummins diesel. The original Mopar batteries lasted ten years and still checked good, but I felt I was living on borrowed time and replaced them with Duracell from Sam’s. They lasted for nine years. Right before I traded it on my new Maverick I replaced the Duracell’s with Interstates from Costco. I always keep my battery terminals very clean. A good ground and clean terminals makes a happy electrical system.
I like the fact you went back and triple checked your assumptions about the batteries and then changed your mind. Takes an honest man to do that, but also I think the fact we're watching also keeps you more honest than your average technician due to REE.
First of all, great videos. I will never critique someone's welding because I'm no welder so keep it up. As far as the settings on the battery tester for those that don't know: SLI: starting, lighting, ignition. harks back to when cars only had starter, lights, and ignition. your standard flooded batteries. GEL: gel batteries used in power supplies and power sports FLAT: flat plate AGM like the ones in the video. SPL: spiral AGM, 6-pack looking batteries like Optima's When using a large carbon tester, run it right up to half the battery's rated CCA, and should be in the green after 15 seconds. Use your best judgment taking into account the engine, current temps, and the season. If the batteries are marginal and winter's around the corner, time to change them before getting stranded. I agree, never mix new and old batteries or types of batteries. The new one could overcharge and the old one could undercharge. and you're back to having starting issues. AGMs will accept higher current and voltage than regular flooded batteries. I purchased my LB7 Duramax Chevy in 2011 and it always hovered around 12 volts for a bit after start-up. Like others have stated I believe it's the glow plugs. Might be less of an issue with dual alternators or higher output alternators. Mine's an LS so it only has the standard 105amp alternator. Every time I see you working on old rust-free trucks I get a little jealous. Every time I close the rear suicide doors on my extended cab I hear rust hit the running boards. Salt sucks and the moisture in the air where I live doesn't help. Thanks for the great videos.
As for the battery testing, the first battery you tested I believe is faulty as shown through your CCA and load testing (Volt drop under load) and the battery started smoking. When you went back for a second CCA test it read fine. This may be due to the battery cells warping / debris in the cell shorting one of the cells and the smoking and burnt through some of this during your first test and then gave you a correct reading on your second test. Hope this helps from the UK :) and keep up the good work and loving the videos
It’s great to see a mechanic saving clients hard earned cash! By repairing that manifold, you bought some valuable additional miles of use! You also made the effort on the o-ring! I hope the mechanics I hire are nearly as thorough, rather than faulting to the parts cannon! I’ve got friends in the Tampa Bay, Sarasota and Bradenton area! You are being recommended Sir! Get a bigger shop. You’re going to need it!!! Ray’s Auto Clinic ROCKS!
I had battery testing good but running flat in a day. It had normal CCA immediately after charging but had huge self-discharge current. That happens when stuff falls off the plates at the bottom of the cells and bridges over
Ray, You know what I'm going to say as an Electrical Engineer positive connections first. Negative second, Then if your wrench or screw tightening device touches the frame, you are still OK👍. SAFETY FIRST MATE.
Just so you are aware welding with the battery connected , has a small chance of damaging control modules. This can occur when the current from the welder passes through the module.
Nothing wrong with welding what you did and how you did it. I am a welder for the last 40 years plus, retired now for a year 😊 but you located the ground very close to your weld, perfect!
Lots of "small" issues with this vehicle, but added up to a pretty big job. Lots of diag on the electrical issues, and your familiarity with the charging system from your DirtyMax helped a lot in my opinion. That resistance tool brought back lots of memories. Back in the day it was the tool, but it showed it was still useful. Along with your electronic devices gave a good picture of the system. Too bad on that o-ring being the problem, and it not being available. I look forward to the next video for replacing that lower hose. Thanks again for another great video, Ray! And another cameo shot of Wife Unit - Lauren. Beautiful as ever. 🙂
You are correct in how you are using the amp clamp as it is creating a voltage that the meter reads and converts into an amp scale as it does more than be an amp meter.....it also can be used for lower amps using the leads through the fused circuit.....fluke do an external amp clamp you can use with your fluke multimeter.....these give ability to test over 10 amps......if batteries are good and alternator is good then poor cranking is wires to starter, its start relay and or as well as dying starter motor....years ago i had poor crank when cold worse when hot and checks pointed to batteries but it was the starter in the end which amp check when cranking showed all the amps....250amps cold and 360amps hot 😮 new starter was 150amps and been perfect since 👌
You’re spoiling us Ray, all these extra videos. 👏🏼 I know absolutely nothing about welding, I’ve never welded in my life but could you have put something like a short bolt in the hole and welded that in? Standing by for keyboard warriors to show me how ignorant I am. 😂
if it's cast iron welding it is dang tricky, gotta preheat, use proper alloys, it might be better brazed, well, hard soldered with something a bit more meaty, but using a bolt to plug a hole would make it lots easier but you gotta choose an undersized so if there's any difference in expansion it won't crack the manifold. steel is far easier.
Hi from England 🇬🇧, that weld did the trick, I guess there will always be others who prefer a different method but that was quick and effective and you're happy and the customer is happy so it's all good 🙂 Only just found your channel, great videos, interesting and informative 👍
That Chicago tester does not have coils like a toaster, it has a stack of carbon discs (hence, carbon pile), that when the dial is turned clamp tighter together creating more resistance. You crank that knob until the black dial hits 1/2 of the battery's CCA rating and hold it up to 15 sec. then read the right dial. Just a thought.
Just a thought on the O-ring. I’ve been in tractor/hydraulic repair shops that have large selections O-rings. Might be able to find a replacement that way.
Ray Goodmorning once upon a time in welding class welded cast iron chairs with ni rod but this hole you welded up in a piece of cast manifold will probably never leak. I think it’s a good fix didn’t take long and you didn’t have to take it off. There is an o ring splice kit but it’s probably expensive and you might only use it once. I m ready for the radiator hose upgrade. Have a good day Ray
Cast iron does not like to be welded, and usually the repair will just crack off from the sudden heat of the weld. In order to properly weld cast iron, you would need to remove it from the engine, pre-heat the item, and then allow it to cool slowly by insulating the part. There are also some stick welding products that are specifically made for cast iron repairs. Given that the leak was a round hole, the most durable repair would be to tap the hole and plug with a bolt / threaded plug.
Nice one👍👍 Like you’ve said before, you’ll never know what you’ll find until you start pulling things apart. Hope that snow ball doesn’t get too big. Cheers
I know that it doesn't matter the vast majority of the time, but you're going to run into an issue one time connecting the positive post after you've connected the negative post. You always always disconnect the negative First and put it on last. It's even more critical when you're working with a dual battery system. You've complicated things by 400%, every time you've added a component.
It matters every time. This common mistake causes a voltage spike directly to the regulator on the alternator, which damages and causes failure. This is why it undercharged, then overcharged. It has diodes to prevent backflow of electricity but spikes will ruin diodes as well. Seems like all technicians should know this, but I guess it's easier to ruin a battery and alternator than it is to disconnect the negative . Plus this guarantees returns for future repairs 2hen it eventually dies after ruining several other components. I laugh when he did it while" isolating " the battery without removing the ground. Perfect example of damage caused while attempting repairs
I noticed in the video that you connected the positive terminals first. I have always been taught Negative off first, negative on last. I was taught that this is the way to avoid frying a PCM/ECU. Am I wrong?
Hi Ray, just an FYI you can find many types of O-ring and many other things at McMaster-Carr. orange O-rings are made of silicone rubber. you need the dimentions and you can usually get it the next day. Great video!
300amps is a common amp draw for passenger car starters Load testing at 300amps at 10.oo volt minimum // any volts above that is ok Batteries in vid are ok check alternator output check connections check cable size check earth /ground cable s Proper alternator charging to battery should not have greater than .4 volt drop in charge cable 3% for critical circuits ...upto 5% for non critical
Good morning Mr Ray, hope y'all have a great day. Glad to see you back from Saturn lol. 😅. I hate laying down in the floor trying to work under the dash
Observe that the AC-compressor clutch is engaged when the start motor is turning the engine. Usually the clutch is delayed until the engine have start up. The AC-compressor give lots of resistant for the starter. I'm not an expert on American cars, so it might be normal, I'm not sure, but on European cars the compressor is always have an delayed start. And about the coolant house, the fitting seems to be easy to remove from the hose, so it might be easier to just swap the fittings on the hoses, if the hose in the truck is in a good shape.
Great timing. I was planning on changing my radiator hoses this weekend on my 2008 2500 duramax. I’ve never done it before and was a little scared lol.
He should’ve done something to that effect. He’s not a welder and DEFINITELY not a cast iron welder. I give him credit for sendin it, but man, as an ex weld inspector smh lol there’s probably some cracks on the manifold that are gonna open up eventually, but hey, he took care of the problem for his customer so I can’t fault him on that really.
Well tough Twinkles for those that don't like it ..that's what this country needs is a firm kick in the arse and your just the man!!!!😅😅😅😅@@RainmanRaysRepairs
Exactly, tap the hole to next size, put in bolt. Take bolt half way in depth of hole and use a punch to put a few divots in the thread, so it will never come loose again. Put in with some high temp sealer, which will carbonise and fill the gaps, and cut off flush. Stainless steel if you want to have it gall in there forever as well.
What confused me is, if it was there for an aftermarket exhaust temp sensor, wouldn't it already be threaded? Seems simplest to find a bolt that would fit what's already there. Of course the thing that always has to be considered is what Ray and his customer has decided on. The videos never tell the entire story.
It could also be a shorted diode in the alternator which would still charge the battery’s when started but would drain the battery when Parker you should check for higher than normal current drain when turned off. Making allowances for some items that draw very low drain items that are there all the time.
If he was going to take off the manifold, yes, that probably would have been the prudent course. The reason he didn't was because he didn't want all the metal shavings from the tapping process to wind up in the turbo fan blades, which could cause it to 'splode. Same reason he was a little paranoid about the welding. If he got his fill wire dropped into the manifold, 'splode-y turbo.
Those standard AGM auto batteries are usually flat plates. Spiral would be those Optima batteries (red, yellow or blue top). Pretty durable batteries though. Never did a lot replacement on those like I did lead acid ones.
Some of these comments are the reason why he had to say at the beginning about criticism, like ray said it’s not his specialty skill set but at the end of the day the weld will do its job and saved the owner having to buy a new manifold
SMA has a few videos on measuring voltage drop, would have saved you time/effort when testing. also battery post to clamp corrosion is sometimes the culprit , test directly from the battery terminals.
Hi, i do enjoy your videos, keep up the good work. Complements finished many many years ago some cars in the UK that are now classed as classics used to have Brass exhaust nuts and washers. not only was it easier to release them but if they could not be release easily as a softer material they became a sacrificial part that could be easily replace without tearing out the studs.I suppose steel nuts are cheaper for the manufacturer and not for the benefit of the mechanic. He Ho a sign of the times i suppose.
I have a silverado 6.0 I had to upgrade my batteries and new alternator.Alternator is 140 or 160 amps. Truck has a snow plow package.The electric hydraulic setup and the plow use a lot of juice during storms.Plow trucks are known to catch fire.....My chevy is a 2014.There might be a tsb about dirty or bad grounds.Ive seen some youtube videos on it.
When I was growing up (ancient history) I was taught in auto shop that when connecting and disconnecting batteries that the negative terminal (ground to frame) was always removed first and installed last. They demonstrated the reason with an old wrench touching ground when first removing the positive terminal and it made a ton of sparks and melted metal. Likewise, when jumping, positive is first on and ground placed on major engine metal part second to avoid sparking and eating soft metal on battery cable clamps. Is this still considered best practice?
I do this on all my plow trucks. The power wire that GM uses needs to be WAY bigger to be effective. A chain is only as good as it's weakest link!!! I ran a 95 Tahoe with a Western Power Angle Snow Plow & two class D amps pushing 4 - 12" Subs absolutely hammering the whole time.
I would have put a very small bolt in that hole and weld it together with the manifold. Would reduce the risk of any contaminates entering the manifold.
Welding cast requires skill and practice, a steel plug would work and you can cheat the cast. But Ray, the batteries are not connected in series unless you want 24 volts. They are in parallel connection. Pos to pos, neg to neg, grounded. Enjoy your vids.
Ray, I’ve welded for years, mostly arc. I thought there was a rule that ‘you never weld on a car without disconnecting the battery’! I’ve always been told that doing so risks the electrical system from spikes that can occur from welders!
Ray, awesome videos as always. If you have an IR with video display you can also see bad connections that are high resistance at connections if you catch it before the 'nator gets hot.
not sure if you are aware usually the positive post is larger in diameter then negative post. causes more drag with your motor driven cleaner! the old school tester needs to be blown out, and placed in a bag to keep out the dirt and dust out of the unit! I do not think that material causes any issues, but it just smells bad when it heats up during testing.
Ray you commented on the dangers of welding on the net and I thought you did a great job in short time but because it was a weld some nice comments telling you of better ways to weld!😂
You may consider doing voltage drop tests on the charging system powers, and grounds I have ran redundant power wire ( charge back wire ) like you did, but I have also ran redundant wire on the ground side as well.
You’ve become a bad influence on me Ray. Changed the plugs on my BMW today. Found myself tightening things down with the electric ratchet, tightening it a little further and saying “click”. 😅
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Ray, your analysis of the corroded B+ wire on the alternator is not quite correct, originally we saw the nator putting out like 90A, and after you added the new wire, you had 30A on the new wire and 40A on the old one. You concluded this means there was high resistance on the original wire, stopping the nator putting out its full output. This is not how electricity works, with 2 wires, the amperage would split pretty evenly over both wires, just as we saw. Had the original wire really been corroded badly, you would have gotten negligible amperage on the old wire, and most of it flowing on the new wire. We saw an almost 50/50 split, with actually more current on the old 'corroded' wire, meaning it was actually *lower|* resistance compared to the new wire you added! Even though the original wire looks bad, and in the future could pose a problem, it certainly doesn't warrant replacing as a 'fix' for the low battery charge condition!
Chevrolet TSB 07-06-03-009C
Make:
Chevrolet
Number:
07-06-03-009C
Title:
Information On Voltmeter Gauge Fluctuation Due To Regulated Voltage Control System And Concerns About Camper/Trailer Battery Charging
Date:
1/16/2015
Models:
2007-2013 Avalanche
2005-2006 Avalanche 1500
2005-2006 Avalanche 2500
2005-2007 Cab & Chassis Silverado 3500
2007-2012 Cab & Chassis Silverado 3500 HD
2005-2012 Silverado 1500
2005-2006 Silverado 1500 HD
2013 Silverado 1500 Hybrid
2013 Silverado 1500 LS
2013 Silverado 1500 LT
2013 Silverado 1500 LTZ
2013 Silverado 1500 WT
2013 Silverado 1500 XFE
2005-2012 Silverado 2500 HD
2013-2014 Silverado 2500 HD LT
2013-2014 Silverado 2500 HD LTZ
2013-2014 Silverado 2500 HD WT
2005-2006 Silverado 3500
2007-2012 Silverado 3500 HD
2013-2014 Silverado 3500 HD LT
2013-2014 Silverado 3500 HD LTZ
2013-2014 Silverado 3500 HD WT
2007 Silverado Classic 1500
2007 Silverado Classic 1500 HD
2007 Silverado Classic 2500 HD
2007 Silverado Classic 3500
2014 Suburban 1500 LS
2014 Suburban 1500 LT
2014 Suburban 1500 LTZ
2005-2013 Suburban C1500
2005-2013 Suburban C2500
2005-2013 Suburban K1500
2005-2013 Suburban K2500
2005-2012 Tahoe
2008-2013 Tahoe Hybrid
2013-2014 Tahoe LS
2013-2014 Tahoe LT
2013-2014 Tahoe LTZ
2012-2014 Tahoe PPV
2012-2014 Tahoe SSV
Summary:
Some customers may comment that the voltmeter is fluctuating between 12 and 14 volts on their full size pickup or utility vehicle. Starting with the 2005 model year, light duty full size pickups and utilities are equipped with a Regulated Voltage Control (RVC) system. This system reduces the targeted output of the generator to 12.6-13.1 volts when in "Fuel Economy Mode" to improve fuel economy. The generator may exit "Fuel Economy Mode" if additional voltage is required. This will cause the voltmeter to fluctuate between 12 and 14 volts as opposed to non-regulated systems that usually maintain a more consistent reading of 14 volts. This fluctuation with the RVC system is normal system operation and NO repairs should be attempted. This informational bulletin adds 2011 - 2014 model years to information on voltmeter gauge fluctuation due to regulated voltage control system and concerns about camper/trailer battery charging.
@@jovangrbic97 but after startup it should be dropping as the batteries take a charge. The output is "need" based.
Just a suggestion for next time .... take a proper fitting bolt and cut it down to make a plug for the hole. Grind the head down where it is roughly 1/8" tall. Insert the newly made plug into the hole, then weld the plug to the exhaust manifold. This will reduce the chance of getting welding splatter in the turbo unit and save time because you won't have to work at filling the hole with weld.
I was actually thinking about cutting a tread in there and put in a fitting bold ..
I too, am not a welder. Yet, this was the solution that came to mind before Ray ever started talking about how he was going to do this. 😋 That said, now after watching, I think he came up with a reasonable repair.
Same Idea here (Not A welder but seen a lot of it). Use a flange head bolt, grind off the threads to just enough to be seated in the hole, then weld away.
@@abushams3336cutting threads would definitely get metal bits in the turbo! :)
I've done that many times. Problem free. and it looks better.
3-4 hours to replace a heater hose is a sign of bad engineering in my opinion. You always do your best to take care of your customers while maintaining a highly level of quality. We need more guys like you around, Ray.
A throwback to a year and a half ago when two out of three of your videos involved cleaning/servicing battery terminals. :)
First rule of welding cast iron is it needs to be preheated before welding. I have welded cast iron before many times successfully, but preheating it just gives it a better chance of survival.
I was waiting for someone to say that! Also brazing rod (gas weld) or nickel rod is best on cast.
I give you all the props in the world for trying to weld that cast iron manifold up. I wouldn't attempt it. I think another valid repair would tap it for pipe thread and put a plug in her.
We haven't had a good old-fashioned battery cleaning Ray video in far too long.
Takes me back to the "just a tech Ray" days.
“Just a tech Ray” lol 😂his a movie star
You got to love those dirty installations! The correct way to run dual car batteries is to use a diode isolator. Tying two or more batteries directly together requires that all of them are at equal life and chemistry, otherwise you have an imbalance. A diode isolator not only allows the alternator to charge both batteries at the same time, but a smart isolator will split the charge based on each battery's needs. Proper solar installations use deep cycle batteries that are designed to directly connect in series and parallel. Car batteries, not so much. Yes, all of this rant is from many years of experience in automotive and electrical.
My motor home has two 8D batteries, one for the engine and the other for the "house" and it uses a diode isolator which works quite well. It can be a pain to trouble shoot when one goes bad though.
What a wizard. The Rainman was at his best in this one. And he still got a cameo appearance from the Wife Unit. This is a Best of The Rainman for sure.
Always preheat the cast iron before you weld to it.
Depending on the vehicle's wiring you may have bypassed the alternator fuse by installing that jumper. My F-150 has a 90 amp fuse in the alternator to battery harness. Also you could have disconnected the negatives to avoid the chance of a short while working on the positive lead. Nice job overall!
Love the channel bro. Just Settled the Debate on greasing the threads! It doesn't work!
You also need to practice installing and securing the ground cable last to prevent shorting the battery
Very true. Seems like he's done like this since I've watchinhg
FYI, Tractor supply has one of the best selections of o-rings I've found in both Rubber and Silicone.
I hadn't thought of Tractor Supply. I always got them at a local Hydraulics shop if I didn't have time to wait for shipping.
I bought a new 2003 Dodge Ram with the Cummins diesel. The original Mopar batteries lasted ten years and still checked good, but I felt I was living on borrowed time and replaced them with Duracell from Sam’s. They lasted for nine years. Right before I traded it on my new Maverick I replaced the Duracell’s with Interstates from Costco. I always keep my battery terminals very clean. A good ground and clean terminals makes a happy electrical system.
I like the fact you went back and triple checked your assumptions about the batteries and then changed your mind. Takes an honest man to do that, but also I think the fact we're watching also keeps you more honest than your average technician due to REE.
I half expected the cut wire scrap to somehow fall right in the hole you were welding shut. You know: Murhpy’s Law.
First of all, great videos. I will never critique someone's welding because I'm no welder so keep it up. As far as the settings on the battery tester for those that don't know:
SLI: starting, lighting, ignition. harks back to when cars only had starter, lights, and ignition. your standard flooded batteries.
GEL: gel batteries used in power supplies and power sports
FLAT: flat plate AGM like the ones in the video.
SPL: spiral AGM, 6-pack looking batteries like Optima's
When using a large carbon tester, run it right up to half the battery's rated CCA, and should be in the green after 15 seconds. Use your best judgment taking into account the engine, current temps, and the season. If the batteries are marginal and winter's around the corner, time to change them before getting stranded.
I agree, never mix new and old batteries or types of batteries. The new one could overcharge and the old one could undercharge. and you're back to having starting issues. AGMs will accept higher current and voltage than regular flooded batteries.
I purchased my LB7 Duramax Chevy in 2011 and it always hovered around 12 volts for a bit after start-up. Like others have stated I believe it's the glow plugs. Might be less of an issue with dual alternators or higher output alternators. Mine's an LS so it only has the standard 105amp alternator.
Every time I see you working on old rust-free trucks I get a little jealous. Every time I close the rear suicide doors on my extended cab I hear rust hit the running boards. Salt sucks and the moisture in the air where I live doesn't help.
Thanks for the great videos.
You're killing me 3 videos in one day lol keep up the great work bud always look forward to seeing them
NOT a mechanic...but a FAN of your work ethic. I dig your respect for details that customers DON'T see.
You may be a fan, but are you a TURBO fan? (wink)
@@MonkeyJedi99 Corny...but good.
As for the battery testing, the first battery you tested I believe is faulty as shown through your CCA and load testing (Volt drop under load) and the battery started smoking. When you went back for a second CCA test it read fine. This may be due to the battery cells warping / debris in the cell shorting one of the cells and the smoking and burnt through some of this during your first test and then gave you a correct reading on your second test. Hope this helps from the UK :) and keep up the good work and loving the videos
Corrosion caused the smoke
Not the battery but the tester resistors were smoking when crud was cooking off.
It’s great to see a mechanic saving clients hard earned cash! By repairing that manifold, you bought some valuable additional miles of use!
You also made the effort on the o-ring! I hope the mechanics I hire are nearly as thorough, rather than faulting to the parts cannon!
I’ve got friends in the Tampa Bay, Sarasota and Bradenton area! You are being recommended Sir! Get a bigger shop. You’re going to need it!!!
Ray’s Auto Clinic ROCKS!
Should you have made the new positive cable out of red cable? The black might confuse someone trying to jump start the truck. Just a thought.
Or at least use RED heatshrink tubing on the cable ends
I had battery testing good but running flat in a day. It had normal CCA immediately after charging but had huge self-discharge current. That happens when stuff falls off the plates at the bottom of the cells and bridges over
We made many orings with an oring kit. Much faster and easier than changing everything. Very easy to do.
Ray, You know what I'm going to say as an Electrical Engineer positive connections first. Negative second, Then if your wrench or screw tightening device touches the frame, you are still OK👍. SAFETY FIRST MATE.
Just so you are aware welding with the battery connected , has a small chance of damaging control modules. This can occur when the current from the welder passes through the module.
Nothing wrong with welding what you did and how you did it. I am a welder for the last 40 years plus, retired now for a year 😊 but you located the ground very close to your weld, perfect!
Lots of "small" issues with this vehicle, but added up to a pretty big job. Lots of diag on the electrical issues, and your familiarity with the charging system from your DirtyMax helped a lot in my opinion. That resistance tool brought back lots of memories. Back in the day it was the tool, but it showed it was still useful. Along with your electronic devices gave a good picture of the system. Too bad on that o-ring being the problem, and it not being available. I look forward to the next video for replacing that lower hose. Thanks again for another great video, Ray! And another cameo shot of Wife Unit - Lauren. Beautiful as ever. 🙂
You are correct in how you are using the amp clamp as it is creating a voltage that the meter reads and converts into an amp scale as it does more than be an amp meter.....it also can be used for lower amps using the leads through the fused circuit.....fluke do an external amp clamp you can use with your fluke multimeter.....these give ability to test over 10 amps......if batteries are good and alternator is good then poor cranking is wires to starter, its start relay and or as well as dying starter motor....years ago i had poor crank when cold worse when hot and checks pointed to batteries but it was the starter in the end which amp check when cranking showed all the amps....250amps cold and 360amps hot 😮 new starter was 150amps and been perfect since 👌
You’re spoiling us Ray, all these extra videos. 👏🏼
I know absolutely nothing about welding, I’ve never welded in my life but could you have put something like a short bolt in the hole and welded that in? Standing by for keyboard warriors to show me how ignorant I am. 😂
was down here, about to type the exact same thing- is there a technical reason for not welding in a bolt? or did you just not consider it?
@@andytipping70 More complicated, more material variations and mig is a great filler process.
I've always been told you have to disconnect the battery to weld, but I assume this is just in case your ground clamp gets disconnected?
Yup. Ground clamp disconnected, no electrical path to battery. @@andyca15
if it's cast iron welding it is dang tricky, gotta preheat, use proper alloys, it might be better brazed, well, hard soldered with something a bit more meaty, but using a bolt to plug a hole would make it lots easier but you gotta choose an undersized so if there's any difference in expansion it won't crack the manifold. steel is far easier.
bummer about the hose. at least you tried to save them some money. another great video. thanks for sharing.
Hi from England 🇬🇧, that weld did the trick, I guess there will always be others who prefer a different method but that was quick and effective and you're happy and the customer is happy so it's all good 🙂 Only just found your channel, great videos, interesting and informative 👍
Ray you are absolutely brilliant you always solve problems so well 👍
That Chicago tester does not have coils like a toaster, it has a stack of carbon discs (hence, carbon pile), that when the dial is turned clamp tighter together creating more resistance. You crank that knob until the black dial hits 1/2 of the battery's CCA rating and hold it up to 15 sec. then read the right dial. Just a thought.
Put a plastic sleeve on the new cable to prevent fire and mark it with red tape on both ends.
Just a thought on the O-ring. I’ve been in tractor/hydraulic repair shops that have large selections O-rings. Might be able to find a replacement that way.
Ray Goodmorning once upon a time in welding class welded cast iron chairs with ni rod but this hole you welded up in a piece of cast manifold will probably never leak. I think it’s a good fix didn’t take long and you didn’t have to take it off. There is an o ring splice kit but it’s probably expensive and you might only use it once. I m ready for the radiator hose upgrade. Have a good day Ray
Cast iron does not like to be welded, and usually the repair will just crack off from the sudden heat of the weld. In order to properly weld cast iron, you would need to remove it from the engine, pre-heat the item, and then allow it to cool slowly by insulating the part. There are also some stick welding products that are specifically made for cast iron repairs. Given that the leak was a round hole, the most durable repair would be to tap the hole and plug with a bolt / threaded plug.
Nice one👍👍
Like you’ve said before, you’ll never know what you’ll find until you start pulling things apart.
Hope that snow ball doesn’t get too big. Cheers
I know that it doesn't matter the vast majority of the time, but you're going to run into an issue one time connecting the positive post after you've connected the negative post. You always always disconnect the negative First and put it on last.
It's even more critical when you're working with a dual battery system. You've complicated things by 400%, every time you've added a component.
It matters every time. This common mistake causes a voltage spike directly to the regulator on the alternator, which damages and causes failure. This is why it undercharged, then overcharged. It has diodes to prevent backflow of electricity but spikes will ruin diodes as well.
Seems like all technicians should know this, but I guess it's easier to ruin a battery and alternator than it is to disconnect the negative . Plus this guarantees returns for future repairs 2hen it eventually dies after ruining several other components. I laugh when he did it while" isolating " the battery without removing the ground. Perfect example of damage caused while attempting repairs
Yea I changed that hose on my 2016 3500 Duramax took me 6 hours and a lot of new cuss words! Man I hope I NEVER have to replace that sucker!
I agree with OldMadScientist to much work for a simple fix have a good day
A 12ga shotgun bore brush works good on the battery cable terminals.
I noticed in the video that you connected the positive terminals first. I have always been taught Negative off first, negative on last. I was taught that this is the way to avoid frying a PCM/ECU. Am I wrong?
Hi Ray, just an FYI you can find many types of O-ring and many other things at McMaster-Carr. orange O-rings are made of silicone rubber. you need the dimentions and you can usually get it the next day. Great video!
Wonder if that hole was threaded? If so, it might have been a factory hole for an EGT sensor upgraded gauge and had a pipe plug that fell out?
300amps is a common amp draw for passenger car starters
Load testing at 300amps at 10.oo volt minimum // any volts above that is ok
Batteries in vid are ok
check alternator output
check connections
check cable size
check earth /ground cable s
Proper alternator charging to battery should not have greater than .4 volt drop in charge cable
3% for critical circuits ...upto 5% for non critical
Nice try on the hose. Definitely worth the attempt.
Good morning Mr Ray, hope y'all have a great day. Glad to see you back from Saturn lol. 😅. I hate laying down in the floor trying to work under the dash
Observe that the AC-compressor clutch is engaged when the start motor is turning the engine. Usually the clutch is delayed until the engine have start up. The AC-compressor give lots of resistant for the starter. I'm not an expert on American cars, so it might be normal, I'm not sure, but on European cars the compressor is always have an delayed start. And about the coolant house, the fitting seems to be easy to remove from the hose, so it might be easier to just swap the fittings on the hoses, if the hose in the truck is in a good shape.
Nice observations.
Great timing. I was planning on changing my radiator hoses this weekend on my 2008 2500 duramax. I’ve never done it before and was a little scared lol.
Why didn't you plug it with an old bolt then weld it???
I was just going to ask the same thing. Love your videos!
Good Idea! High temp sealer and a bolt!
Not necessary, it's just a plug weld.
He should’ve done something to that effect. He’s not a welder and DEFINITELY not a cast iron welder. I give him credit for sendin it, but man, as an ex weld inspector smh lol there’s probably some cracks on the manifold that are gonna open up eventually, but hey, he took care of the problem for his customer so I can’t fault him on that really.
Here come the reeeeeees. I was thinking a small metal disks cut from some scrap metal (like a washer), but the head of a bolt makes total sense.
To get the batteries to charge equally, put the positive lead on one battery and the negative lead on the other.
That coolant hose... I bet you can pull the plastic out of the hose and hose clamp it directly to the radiator.
Nice job Ray
I own a Mercedes diesel, nothing to be frightened off Ray :)
Thank you for the Wife Unit cameo, look forward to it every day.❤😊
I love test equipment that proves that something may be good or bad.
Yeahh go Ray the multi video in 1 day postmaster general..... RAYMOND 4 PREZ!!!!!!
I don’t want to be the one to fix this mess. They’ll probably kill me if I try
Well tough Twinkles for those that don't like it ..that's what this country needs is a firm kick in the arse and your just the man!!!!😅😅😅😅@@RainmanRaysRepairs
@@RainmanRaysRepairs Not under my watch, boss! 🇺🇲
I don't know how to weld so I'd tap and put a bolt in the hole on the header
Exactly what I was about to say as soon as I saw the hole!!
Exactly what I was about to say as soon as I saw the hole!!
I have done one hole, i tap hole and then put bolt and cut it and then just weld around.
Exactly, tap the hole to next size, put in bolt. Take bolt half way in depth of hole and use a punch to put a few divots in the thread, so it will never come loose again. Put in with some high temp sealer, which will carbonise and fill the gaps, and cut off flush. Stainless steel if you want to have it gall in there forever as well.
What confused me is, if it was there for an aftermarket exhaust temp sensor, wouldn't it already be threaded? Seems simplest to find a bolt that would fit what's already there. Of course the thing that always has to be considered is what Ray and his customer has decided on. The videos never tell the entire story.
It could also be a shorted diode in the alternator which would still charge the battery’s when started but would drain the battery when Parker you should check for higher than normal current drain when turned off. Making allowances for some items that draw very low drain items that are there all the time.
The battery check was old school made me smile. Now this was good video 🤗 carbon pile disc work great.
would it not be more beneficial to tap & plug the hole rather than weld cast iron?
Too late now
You would have cast iron chips falling into the manifold and then into the turbo.
If he was going to take off the manifold, yes, that probably would have been the prudent course. The reason he didn't was because he didn't want all the metal shavings from the tapping process to wind up in the turbo fan blades, which could cause it to 'splode. Same reason he was a little paranoid about the welding. If he got his fill wire dropped into the manifold, 'splode-y turbo.
I would have put a screw in the hole and welded it. You got it though, looks good. Great video
That wire harness near the radiator hose looks like it's supposed to be routed above the AC line.
if you are near a voke school, they may have adult ed classes, a welding class would be a positive enhancement for your shop and skills
maybe the terminal cleaner onthe alternator connection that had corrosion?
Also you can make a tread and put a short screw with sealing tape
Those standard AGM auto batteries are usually flat plates. Spiral would be those Optima batteries (red, yellow or blue top). Pretty durable batteries though. Never did a lot replacement on those like I did lead acid ones.
Some of these comments are the reason why he had to say at the beginning about criticism, like ray said it’s not his specialty skill set but at the end of the day the weld will do its job and saved the owner having to buy a new manifold
Sometimes the crossover cable can cause some problems. it looks like you did a really good job welding!
Well, Ray, for NOT being a welder, that looks really good.!😃
SMA has a few videos on measuring voltage drop, would have saved you time/effort when testing. also battery post to clamp corrosion is sometimes the culprit , test directly from the battery terminals.
Back in the eighties we used one of those heavy duty battery testers with the heavy duty clips and would pull an actual starter load on the battery
I still have one of those chargers from the 80s..it still works great
Good for load testing the alternator also.
Crazy Idea,run the enginge while cleaning up the hole,positive pressure will keep the hole clean!
Good idea but I don’t think he can run it long while waiting on that coolant system part. :)
@@emmettturner9452 Well..... He did run it while testing the charging system...yikes
@@leybraith3561 I noticed… and he mentioned doing that this morning.
Ty Ray n mrs
You'll get er done 😊
Hi, i do enjoy your videos, keep up the good work. Complements finished many many years ago some cars in the UK that are now classed as classics used to have Brass exhaust nuts and washers. not only was it easier to release them but if they could not be release easily as a softer material they became a sacrificial part that could be easily replace without tearing out the studs.I suppose steel nuts are cheaper for the manufacturer and not for the benefit of the mechanic. He Ho a sign of the times i suppose.
I have a silverado 6.0 I had to upgrade my batteries and new alternator.Alternator is 140 or 160 amps. Truck has a snow plow package.The electric hydraulic setup and the plow use a lot of juice during storms.Plow trucks are known to catch fire.....My chevy is a 2014.There might be a tsb about dirty or bad grounds.Ive seen some youtube videos on it.
You should always replace batteries that are in parallel as a pair even if only one battery is bad.
When I was growing up (ancient history) I was taught in auto shop that when connecting and disconnecting batteries that the negative terminal (ground to frame) was always removed first and installed last. They demonstrated the reason with an old wrench touching ground when first removing the positive terminal and it made a ton of sparks and melted metal. Likewise, when jumping, positive is first on and ground placed on major engine metal part second to avoid sparking and eating soft metal on battery cable clamps. Is this still considered best practice?
I do this on all my plow trucks. The power wire that GM uses needs to be WAY bigger to be effective. A chain is only as good as it's weakest link!!! I ran a 95 Tahoe with a Western Power Angle Snow Plow & two class D amps pushing 4 - 12" Subs absolutely hammering the whole time.
I would have put a very small bolt in that hole and weld it together with the manifold. Would reduce the risk of any contaminates entering the manifold.
I like the fact that you try to work for your customers instead of shotgunning more expensive options 😊
Welding cast requires skill and practice, a steel plug would work and you can cheat the cast. But Ray, the batteries are not connected in series unless you want 24 volts. They are in parallel connection. Pos to pos, neg to neg, grounded. Enjoy your vids.
Hey ray if I were you I'd clean out the resistive load tester as dirt and debris can cause hot spots to form which can lead to breaking the resistor.
Why is the A/C compressor clutch engaged during startup?
You should test for voltage drop on the existing wire(s).
Ray, I’ve welded for years, mostly arc. I thought there was a rule that ‘you never weld on a car without disconnecting the battery’! I’ve always been told that doing so risks the electrical system from spikes that can occur from welders!
Ray, awesome videos as always. If you have an IR with video display you can also see bad connections that are high resistance at connections if you catch it before the 'nator gets hot.
not sure if you are aware usually the positive post is larger in diameter then negative post.
causes more drag with your motor driven cleaner! the old school tester needs to be blown out,
and placed in a bag to keep out the dirt and dust out of the unit! I do not think that material
causes any issues, but it just smells bad when it heats up during testing.
OL on your Fluke or your battery tester simply means “off line” and you should check the connection
I would just tap it for the next size up NPT plug.
Ray you commented on the dangers of welding on the net and I thought you did a great job in short time but because it was a weld some nice comments telling you of better ways to weld!😂
You may consider doing voltage drop tests on the charging system powers, and grounds I have ran redundant power wire ( charge back wire ) like you did, but I have also ran redundant wire on the ground side as well.
You’ve become a bad influence on me Ray. Changed the plugs on my BMW today. Found myself tightening things down with the electric ratchet, tightening it a little further and saying “click”. 😅
I'd just tap it and put a bolt in, spot weld on the bolt, job done.
Ahould you disconnect the batteries when welding on the truck so u dont stuff the electronics
Done a few of those repairs,55% nickel works best,but 308 and 309 ss will work in a pinch.