For those about to do this, the inner shaft is 10mm. I made the small soft jaws out of a piece of wood, drilling a 10mm hole then cutting it to make 2 halves. For the large soft jaw I just put the post in my workstand. Fairly straightforward if you follow the video.
Guys, the DX is less expensive, this is one of the reasons. It's a one-time adjustment unless you change frames and therefore no big deal. I did this today after viewing this video. (thanks KS!) It took me about 10 or 15 minutes total, and I didn't have all the tools listed. Not KS approved but I used an inner tube for leverage & grip and just my paws to remove the bottom cap. I used the inner tube for protection and a non-metal clamp on the inner shaft without difficulty.
Good thing you have this video, as the Manual is completely wrong and doesn't show how to adjust the LEX DX! The one online and sent with the shock is for another model.
I've had mine going on 3 years and just now it started sagging and won't hold it's position. Thant being said I love this post, smooth, stops in any position. Moving the cable exit sure is a pain which is why I was looking at this video. I will make my cable a bit longer and not move the cable exit orientation :-( Anyway, I will get it rebuilt and be once again happy with it!
"Generally should just be hand tight" lmao. I had to put mine through a freeze/heat cycle and hit it with a Theragun for a few minutes to get it to even budge with a strap wrench.
I just bought one of these dropper posts. I have no soft jaws but the bike's frame can clamp the end cap and despite the amount of thread lock I managed to unscrew the post with my hands. For the shaft I used a ratchet clamp. It's not very tight so you don't need a wrench. You can unscrew it by hand. I hope this is helpful. My version have different push rod and the thread is on the shaft but everything else is still applicable.
I just did this with a new ks lev. They had applied some clear threadlocker to all the things you had to disassemble. I had to heat the collar on top with a heat gun to unscrew it. The threadlocker also crumbled into dust upon disassembly and fell into the now open seatpost. Why not use low strength Loctite?
I purchased a brand new KS LEV interga seat post in 2014 for my San Andreas rebuild. Having put my mountain biking days behind me I only use my SA for going to work. I do not ride when it's raining or go off-road, jumps, stunts, drop-offs are just distant memories so over the last 12 months I manage to clock up less than 200 miles before my seat post started leaking oil. My confidence with the KS LEV post has completely diminished so before you think about purchasing one have a good look on the internet at other options, you don't want to be like me and wishing you had gone for the RockShox dropper instead.
Same here scooter, i wish i had known. Maybe it is not too bad if the soft jaws are readily available. I have been to home depot, lowe's and true value and they dont carry those soft jaws that is shown on this video. I am stuck in the middle of this mod. I tried to improvise but i cannot make my improvised small soft jaw work
Please show a how to swap an external LEV to internal routing. I have a few external routed posts. It seems easy enough, but I don’t want to start ordering parts until I know more.
Wish I had known how much more involved this step is for the DX vs. Standard LEV when I bought one...what a pain in the ass compared to the normal LEV set up.
I ended up doing this by using a new bike tire tube. It was sticky enough to let me unscrew everything by hand. Still this fucking design! Nice dropper though. Cant wait to try it on the trails
I think KS needs to take this video down or make note that the newer version doesn't need all this work. The Lev DX I just got(all black) is adjusted very easily....exactly like the instructions in the manual, except mine didn't have an air valve cap.
I think KS need to make a better effort of actually being a company. Other than a name that somehow made it big, who actually are they? Sure, they're a Taiwanese brand and all that but there's not much else to know about them. Other than distributing seatposts around the world, they seem to be relatively anonymous. I can't trust any of their so-called support because it's like they don't even care. I can't even figure out how KS became so successful, their history seems largely fabricated. I don't even think KS are responsible for these videos, it's just western distributors and content creators making it because the world is so desperate for information that KS don't seem interested in providing. I don't even think they're responsible for their own products, I heard a rumour that the guy behind Zerode bikes was the original inspiration for KS, but they left that part out of their history and probably paid him nothing. Who knows.
Ditto. This is the last KS product I will ever buy. At a minimum, they should include a cheap 10mm nylon clamp. I've destroyed a few pieces of wood and will now resort to having my machinist build something. (Of course the cable routing out of the box runs directly into the seat post clamp, so I have no choice but to move it.)
Okay, I'm off the ledge. I bought some non-marring jaws from Home Depot for $4.97. I wrapped the shaft with some masking tape and used the round diagonal part of the jaws.
Have to agree with others, if would have know all this I would have bought another supernatural or just spent more to have a reverb. I just installed it the way it came out the box, hell with it..... As a consumer you shouldn't have to disassemble a seatpost like that. Certainly my last ks product, might just send this one back for a refund.
Jamie McLaughlin it was easy I just did it as fast as him but without any tools. I just used a rag in my hand to grip and twist the parts loose or tight. All done.
You can change the seat direction at the top you unscrew a little plastic setscrew and then there’s a 10 mm in there you can do it and then move it you don’t have to do all this you crazy
The "seatpost orientation" page is #2 in the manual, and this is the process? Why even bother with this feature, if it is this difficult to adjust? KS once again making things way too complicated.
In addition, brass bushes are half the length of your pictured and have a price of plastic at the top to make them longer. Also even after moving them collar can’t be set a 90 deg. Fuck you cunts, you deserve every bit of heat in the comments.
This is garbage ! Can’t get the collar off. They have super glued it on. All the damn paint from the logos has been rubbed off now, I tried heat gun and still can’t get it undone. Might have to return this because of this.
We sincerely apologize for not providing an optimal user experience. If repair is needed, please feel free to send your product to our service center. We promise to offer you high-quality service to ensure your satisfaction. Thank you for your understanding and support, and we are committed to continuous improvement to provide better products and experiences.
Absolute joke of a setup. Newer units are different with no bottom out bumper and I’m unable to seperate the post from the housing with the alu ring under the ks top cap. Honestly last is product I’ll ever buy or recommend like everyone else here
![CAMPปลิ้น | EP.77[2/2] "รับทราบ" แก๊งเพื่อนรัก 10 ปี ที่ไปไหนก็มีตำนาน!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ifc0ofD51B0/mqdefault.jpg)
For those about to do this, the inner shaft is 10mm. I made the small soft jaws out of a piece of wood, drilling a 10mm hole then cutting it to make 2 halves. For the large soft jaw I just put the post in my workstand. Fairly straightforward if you follow the video.
Guys, the DX is less expensive, this is one of the reasons. It's a one-time adjustment unless you change frames and therefore no big deal. I did this today after viewing this video. (thanks KS!) It took me about 10 or 15 minutes total, and I didn't have all the tools listed. Not KS approved but I used an inner tube for leverage & grip and just my paws to remove the bottom cap. I used the inner tube for protection and a non-metal clamp on the inner shaft without difficulty.
Good thing you have this video, as the Manual is completely wrong and doesn't show how to adjust the LEX DX! The one online and sent with the shock is for another model.
really?! the manual doesn't even say anything about taking things apart...great engineering...this sucks
yes after watching this I'm just thinking "fuck it" ill leave it as it is.
I've had mine going on 3 years and just now it started sagging and won't hold it's position. Thant being said I love this post, smooth, stops in any position. Moving the cable exit sure is a pain which is why I was looking at this video. I will make my cable a bit longer and not move the cable exit orientation :-( Anyway, I will get it rebuilt and be once again happy with it!
"Generally should just be hand tight" lmao. I had to put mine through a freeze/heat cycle and hit it with a Theragun for a few minutes to get it to even budge with a strap wrench.
I just bought one of these dropper posts. I have no soft jaws but the bike's frame can clamp the end cap and despite the amount of thread lock I managed to unscrew the post with my hands. For the shaft I used a ratchet clamp. It's not very tight so you don't need a wrench. You can unscrew it by hand. I hope this is helpful. My version have different push rod and the thread is on the shaft but everything else is still applicable.
I just did this with a new ks lev. They had applied some clear threadlocker to all the things you had to disassemble. I had to heat the collar on top with a heat gun to unscrew it. The threadlocker also crumbled into dust upon disassembly and fell into the now open seatpost. Why not use low strength Loctite?
I purchased a brand new KS LEV interga seat post in 2014 for my San Andreas rebuild. Having put my mountain biking days behind me I only use my SA for going to work. I do not ride when it's raining or go off-road, jumps, stunts, drop-offs are just distant memories so over the last 12 months I manage to clock up less than 200 miles before my seat post started leaking oil. My confidence with the KS LEV post has completely diminished so before you think about purchasing one have a good look on the internet at other options, you don't want to be like me and wishing you had gone for the RockShox dropper instead.
The operation at 9:24 seems very slow.
Is there any way to make it faster?
(I think it's possible on the LEV, but wondering about the E20)
Where can I get those soft jaws and how big should it be if I have a 31.6 KS LEV post? Same question for the smaller one for the rod. Thanks!
Same here scooter, i wish i had known. Maybe it is not too bad if the soft jaws are readily available. I have been to home depot, lowe's and true value and they dont carry those soft jaws that is shown on this video. I am stuck in the middle of this mod. I tried to improvise but i cannot make my improvised small soft jaw work
Please show a how to swap an external LEV to internal routing. I have a few external routed posts. It seems easy enough, but I don’t want to start ordering parts until I know more.
Wish I had known how much more involved this step is for the DX vs. Standard LEV when I bought one...what a pain in the ass compared to the normal LEV set up.
Same here...
I ended up doing this by using a new bike tire tube. It was sticky enough to let me unscrew everything by hand. Still this fucking design! Nice dropper though. Cant wait to try it on the trails
can you post a link where to buy these soft jaw.for 30.9 preferred size.thank you.very god video btw.
What is the size of the small soft jaw?
I just bought an e20 and the travel range is just too long. Has anyone adjusted the travel range?
I think KS needs to take this video down or make note that the newer version doesn't need all this work.
The Lev DX I just got(all black) is adjusted very easily....exactly like the instructions in the manual, except mine didn't have an air valve cap.
The one I'm working on right now has no instructions in the manual.
I think KS need to make a better effort of actually being a company. Other than a name that somehow made it big, who actually are they? Sure, they're a Taiwanese brand and all that but there's not much else to know about them. Other than distributing seatposts around the world, they seem to be relatively anonymous. I can't trust any of their so-called support because it's like they don't even care. I can't even figure out how KS became so successful, their history seems largely fabricated. I don't even think KS are responsible for these videos, it's just western distributors and content creators making it because the world is so desperate for information that KS don't seem interested in providing. I don't even think they're responsible for their own products, I heard a rumour that the guy behind Zerode bikes was the original inspiration for KS, but they left that part out of their history and probably paid him nothing. Who knows.
Instead of using the large soft jaw you could use another strap wrench
what is the name of this green tool?
Ditto. This is the last KS product I will ever buy. At a minimum, they should include a cheap 10mm nylon clamp. I've destroyed a few pieces of wood and will now resort to having my machinist build something. (Of course the cable routing out of the box runs directly into the seat post clamp, so I have no choice but to move it.)
Okay, I'm off the ledge. I bought some non-marring jaws from Home Depot for $4.97. I wrapped the shaft with some masking tape and used the round diagonal part of the jaws.
Have to agree with others, if would have know all this I would have bought another supernatural or just spent more to have a reverb. I just installed it the way it came out the box, hell with it..... As a consumer you shouldn't have to disassemble a seatpost like that. Certainly my last ks product, might just send this one back for a refund.
This is ridiculous...
Jamie McLaughlin it was easy I just did it as fast as him but without any tools. I just used a rag in my hand to grip and twist the parts loose or tight. All done.
You can change the seat direction at the top you unscrew a little plastic setscrew and then there’s a 10 mm in there you can do it and then move it you don’t have to do all this you crazy
Can you show me? Any video?
The "seatpost orientation" page is #2 in the manual, and this is the process? Why even bother with this feature, if it is this difficult to adjust? KS once again making things way too complicated.
In addition, brass bushes are half the length of your pictured and have a price of plastic at the top to make them longer. Also even after moving them collar can’t be set a 90 deg. Fuck you cunts, you deserve every bit of heat in the comments.
Way more complicated than I'm willing to attempt😬😬
Why not just relocate your cable?
In my case the cable coupler was exactly where the seat post clamp bolt is so the bolt is in the way of the cable.
This is garbage ! Can’t get the collar off. They have super glued it on. All the damn paint from the logos has been rubbed off now, I tried heat gun and still can’t get it undone. Might have to return this because of this.
We sincerely apologize for not providing an optimal user experience. If repair is needed, please feel free to send your product to our service center. We promise to offer you high-quality service to ensure your satisfaction. Thank you for your understanding and support, and we are committed to continuous improvement to provide better products and experiences.
Wow, not buying this and will not recommend to customers.
Absolute joke of a setup. Newer units are different with no bottom out bumper and I’m unable to seperate the post from the housing with the alu ring under the ks top cap. Honestly last is product I’ll ever buy or recommend like everyone else here
Are you fucking serious!? atleast tell us where to get those soft jaws