**In addition to disconnecting the power to the fuel pump and running the engine until it stalls, taking the gas cap off the fill neck helps reduce the pressure in the lines. I learned this when doing the fuel sending unit replacement video. **Ok, because so many people ask this question, I'm gong to cover it in this pinned comment. The question people alway ask is, "Why can't you just pull the fuse to the fuel pump?" The answer is, whether you pull the 15 amp EFI fuse or you pull the EFI relay, that does cut the power to the fuel pump, but it also cuts power to the fuel injectors. By disconnecting the plug to the fuel pump like we instruct in the video, you are isolating the disconnect to JUST the fuel pump. By doing this, you keep the fuel injectors firing. The reason why you want no power to the fuel pump but continued power to the fuel injectors, is because with the fuel injectors still firing with the fuel pump disabled, the fuel pressure in the lines will be reduced making it easier for you you do disconnect the fuel lines and have less fuel spewing out. Make sense? I hope so.
No, disconnecting the battery won't do anything to depressurize the fuel lines. You want to engine to run briefly, and with the battery off, that can't happen.
@@frankli8881 That's the problem Frank. There isn't a fuel pump fuse on these rigs. That's why the factory service manual instructs to disconnect the plug at the fuel pump. There is an EFI fuse or EFI relay you can pull, but it not only disconnects power to the fuel pump, it disconnects power to the fuel injectors as well. You want to keep power to the fuel injectors so they can fire for that brief period when you start it to depressurize the lines. I have learned since doing this job that taking the gas cap off does help depressurize the lines. If you don't want to bother pulling up the rear carpet to access the hatch above the fuel pump, take off the gas cap and let the rig sit for a while.
Thanks for making videos like these Tim. I truly appreciate the time and effort in making them. It gives a guy like me the confidence to work on a vehicle which I was never allowed to touch at a young age by my dad. TH-camrs like you (shoutout to Sean), Kilmer and ChrisFix have filled up the automotive 'missed step' in my childhood that i had to go back to later in life. My deepest gratitude and more power to your channel! Happy wrenching!
It's really awesome to hear this because it's our main goal to encourage and empower people to turn wrenches and learn a valuable skill while saving themselves a ton of money. It's never too late to learn so good job taking on the challenge of automotive mechanics. Thanks for taking the time to share this with us. We really appreciate it and never get tired of hear this. Happy Wrenching back at ya!
Tim you saved my neck again! I had to change the fuel filter on my 98 4Runner after I got everything snugged up the outlet side of the filter towards the engine just kept on wanting to drip. So I watched your video and I loosened the outlet fitting, I wiped off the threads put some fresh engine oil on the threads ,snugged it up and no more leak! thank you so much Tim! Next time I'm in California I'm going to look you up and bring you a case of beer and a stripper or maybe two strippers and a case of beer!!
You're welcome! Good to hear a tip from our video helped you out. Strippers and beer, hell yeah! Just make sure they're female strippers. People are into all kinds of interesting things these days but Sean and I fly pretty straight ;-) Some nice strong IPAs, doubles and triples would be awesome. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Thanks for the comment. Sean and I try our best to do a comprehensive job with our videos. We're obviously not perfect and miss things but we want people to be successful following our tutorials so we try not to miss imparting anything crucial. On some videos, we've had to go back and add new clips to clean things up to make sure people get the correct procedure or information and then sometimes we add a pinned comment and/or add notes in the video description as we learn more about a job and want to share that knowledge with our viewers. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
My mechanic recently changed my fuel filter in my car with turn on and turn off I did exactly what you said I basically left the battery connect that I put my seat down disconnected the wiring and acted like I was going to turn on my car immediately I saw the gauge go down I open my gas tank I disconnected my battery I gave it a few minutes I went with my car and after that I reconnected the wiring I put my seat back down I connected my battery again and it worked perfect thank you so much everyone was telling me it was the fuel pump you saved me money God bless you and your channel
Thanks for the nice compliment. We appreciate it. It is interesting to note that some people have criticized us for the length of our videos and we always give the same response. We're not gearing our videos towards the experienced mechanic or DIYer. We're gearing our videos towards the absolute beginner. By doing this, we are ensuring a greater percentage of people being successful following one of our video tutorials. Happy Wrenching and welcome to our channel.
This job is so much easier on the 5vzfe. Do you have a video on the 2rzfe? Also, I admire how you follow the Factory Service Manual step by step. Very organized and punctual. I've had three tacomas so far, but currently I have a 1998 toyota tacoma with the 2rzfe and only 100,900 miles. I'm 20 yrs old and I just wanted something super reliable. And the 2rz-fe is based on the legendary 22re. Though, I do miss having a 4x4. Anyway, you're the best.
Thanks for the compliment for our channel. We unfortunately don't have a video for replacing the fuel filter on the 2RZ-FE engine. We've only worked on this engine one time. It is very similar to the 3RZ-FE engine, which we do have more videos for. Just do a search on our channel for those videos, which will probably help you out one day. If you live close to the California Bay Area, we'd be interested in helping you with your fuel filter replacement.
@@TimmyTheToolman No problem. Yeah i end up watching a lot of 3RZ videos which seem way more common than the 2rz. I used to live in the bay area! I live in SLO now, which is still pretty close. I would love to come up on a weekend you’re free and do the fuel filter. That would be awesome because I’m trying to do a lot of preventative maintenance so it lasts me forever
@@TimmyTheToolman I definitely want to make the trip! I don’t have Friday classes this quarter, so I can come pretty much any weekend! Thanks so much for this offer
@@aliensubject613 Just let me know when you're ready and we'll try to find a date that works for both of us. A Saturday would be preferred. Email me: tim@timmythetoolman.com
Thank you so much for your very helpful videos, Timmy. I am an original owner of a '01 4runner in the SF Bay Area. Toyota101 dealer did my last fuel filter change at 105K miles. Your very informative video gave me the courage to perform this fuel filter change myself today after 70K miles. First time in 18yrs of ownership, I looked under the carpet to get to the hatch cover above the gas tank. Yikes, the cover wasn't completely sealed. I followed your steps. I was so worried when my fuel gauge show empty and the yellow low fuel light came on. I thought I fried a fuse or the fuel gauge, but the fuel gauge worked fine after I reconnected the fuel pump. Whew! I was able to get three fluttering starts after fuel pump was disconnect. I didn't experience any fuel spray. The fuel dripped on to a rag. About 2 table spoons in total. I used a dab of motor oil on each end of the fuel tube flanges. Drove down and back up 92 this afternoon...Yippy, no leaks! I shook the old filter over a white piece of paper and black dirt came out with tan/yellow color fuel.
I replaced mine yesterday and this video was very helpful! One note - I relieved the pressure in the fuel lines by following your advice and disconnecting the fuel pump. That seemed to relieve the pressure only in the filter-to-engine line. When I unscrewed the tank-to-filter line, gas flowed out of the line at a slow and steady stream for 20+ seconds. I removed the fuel tank cap to depressurize it (I heard it hiss when I removed the cap) and the stream immediately changed to a few drips and then stopped. In the future, I'll know to depressurize the system by doing BOTH things - start the engine with the pump unplugged and remove the fuel tank cap.
Thanks Tim and co. I finally did this two weeks ago and followed the video step by step. Everything went smoothly. I was slacking on getting this done for no reason at all, but it's done now. Thanks again for taking your time to do these videos for the entire Toyota 4Runner community. You guys rock!
Just did this on my Tacoma 4x4 1996. (Just for anyone with this truck, the conector for the fuel pump is kinda behind the pilot rear tire. And the lip for releasing it is facing the co-pilot rear tire). Thank you Timmy. It is great to be able to do this on our own.
I changed my fuel pump yesterday on a 6th Gen. Celica. I wish I had seen this video prior to doing so. Live an learn (and I did learn!). Why not just relay that connects to the fuel pump instead of tear up the back seat and unplug it? Plan every step of this job up front. Make sure there is fresh air, there are no ignition sources, and make sure you have enough pans available to catch that gasoline. Plan Also, have the flair-nut wrench (line wrenches) ready, and I couldn't release the flair-nuts until after I hit it with a spray of an upside down bottle of compressed air to freeze the nut. Then it released and came off pretty quickly. And thanks to you guys for inhaling all those fumes to make this video.
There is no relay that you can disconnect for the fuel pump on a 3rd Gen 4runner and that's why the Toyota factory service manual instructs to disconnect the electrical connector at the fuel pump sending unit assembly.
Just completed this job using your video for guidance. Thanks! I did run into an issue when installing the new filter. The fuel lines did not line up with the threads of the new filter. The geometry was off. I had to hand thread the fittings before mounting the filter to the vehicle. Got them threaded on then mounted the filter. I then torqued the fittings and did a leak check. Just wanted to throw this in here in case someone ran into this issue. It was an OEM filter as well.
I thought it was odd too. When I first went to line them up I noticed right away that it wasn’t right. So I pulled it off and set it next to the old one. All looked the same. Either way, once I put it on it sealed fine. No leaks, I’ve checked everyday since doing the job.
Did this today while staying home and practicing social distancing on my day off. Just wanted to express my gratitude to guys like you on TH-cam who take time out to share knowledge with guys like me who want to learn and save money by working on their cars. The flare nut wrenches worked like a charm and i followed the fsm to use a bit of oil on the threads. I have a 98 t4r and use it as my daily driver to get to the dialysis clinic and treat patients. You're very much appreciated Tim. Be safe out there in San Diego. - shoutout from WA state 👍
Referencing the savings in time and money, my mechanic wanted me to make an appointment next week sometime to do this and charge me $225. I just bought the filter (from Napa, not OEM) and the 14 & 19 line wrenches for $40. Going to do it in my driveway tomorrow. If it takes me more than an hour I’ll be surprised. Great Video. Thanks. SUBSCRIBED.
Yep, doing your own work will save you lots of money. Glad you chose to do this job yourself using our video as a reference. Hope the job went smooth for you.
Thanks Steve. We're glad you like what we're doing with the videos. Sean and I put a lot of time and effort into them so the positive feedback definitely helps maintain our motivation to keep cranking them out. Happy Wrenching!
Good job. When I replaced my fuel filter with a new one that I purchased from a Toyota dealer, it leaked. It was defective with a damaged seat inside it. I had to exchange it for another one. It seems it is a common issue with these filters. When replacing the filter, tighten both inlet and outlet connections slowly and equally. To depressurize the system, I pulled the EFI fuse and ran the engine until it lost fuel pressure (Per the comment from another viewer). It worked!!!!.
I'm not so sure it's a problem with the new filter having a damaged seat. These connections can be tricky to not leak. One thing is tiny metal slivers can be hanging from the end of the flared tubing, Any metal debris should be removed. Another thing is putting a little motor oil on the flared tubing end can help the connection seat better and not leak. Lastly, these connections need to be TIGHT. The difference between leaking and not leaking could be the slightest turn, like 1/64 of a turn.
Thanks for the compliment. If you don't want to bother with disconnecting the power supply to the fuel pump, I did learn after shooting this video thst simply taking off the gas cap and waiting a little while does a pretty good job to depressurize the fuel lines.
@@TimmyTheToolman Sounds like a great idea to me. I also found a couple of fb groups to get some more mod ideas and share with. One I believe your a member of too. Thanks 😊 again
Sir: working alone a on a perplexing P0305 code, I was most grateful you mentioned the wrench sizes (14mm, 119mm, 12 mm) necessary to do this replacement as I was able to do so without getting up and down several times. The replacement solved the P0305. I realize now my faithful 2000 Tundra steed had been telling me this was the issue for months, as it was increasingly setting a P017n (too lean bank) when I stepped on it going up on-ramps. The old filter must be nearly plugged to have set the P0305. Many thanks and happy holidays!.
LOVE the water heater warning. Friend took his fuel tank into the basement (where the water heater lived) and yes ... explosion. No fire, just big boom.
Thank you so much for this video! I was intimidated about this repair but figured I could handle it after watching your video. Also, it was really helpful that you described where the fuel pump disconnect is located on a Tacoma. I was able to find it and disconnect it using some right angle pliers, as you recommended. It was not coming off with just my fingers. I got the replacement done successfully, with no leaks at all and fairly minimal gas spillage. Much appreciated, and keep up the great videos!
You're welcome and good to hear you were able to get the job done with the help of our video. As you just learned, you can easily handle your own automotive work with the right information and the right tools. Things don't always go smooth or as planned and that's when the right level or patience comes in. If you're willing to learn, willing to invest in some tools and have the patience to overcome obstacles, you can do most of your own automotive work. I don't know if you'll end up rebuilding engines and transmissions one day, but you could do that too if you put the effort in. Thanks for taking the time to comment and share your success story with us. Happy Wrenching Brother!
Great safety advise for the DIYers when dealing with gas and vapors!! I have done this job many times over the years to my 2000 4Runner, and I knew when it was time to change the filter when starting the engine took extra cranks, about 30,000 miles of use. After replacement, cranked right up every time. They do get clogged!
Thanks Jake. It's weird how Toyota never advised a service interval for it or considered it a lifetime part. There's no way a fuel filter should ever be considered a lifetime part. It's similar to BMW saying their special synthetic automatic transmission fluid is lifetime. I wonder how many BMW customers had to buy new transmissions due to that idiotic claim. There's no way transmission fluid can last a lifetime. Anyway, you got me thinking. I replaced my fuel filter around 50,000 miles ago. I should probably change mine again.
Timmy The Toolman Tim I saw a write about online about why Toyota doesn’t have a service interval for the fuel filters... It basically spoke about the quality of the part compared to other fuel filters, and the “normal lifetime” of a vehicle being around 100-150K miles... I don’t think the engineers considered the normal lifetime to be the 200K/20 plus years these trucks are going... I think the same theory may apply to the ATF... It could also have just been a non sense hype piece for Toyota...
I just did mine on my 2000 SR5. You most definitely need a 14mm flare wrench for two reasons: no way that thing comes loose without damaging that fitting and no way you're going to get it tight enough without it. I tried to cheat and get it apart with just an end wrench, and I could tell that it was about to yield the metal. Ran to Autozone and got a 13/14mm flare wrench. It took a lot of torque to get them to start turning. When I got it all back together, it still leaked a lot out of one side. I pulled it apart and re-inspected for any burrs or defects, nada. Some guys on the T4R forum said it had to be really tight. I ended up daisy chaining another wrench to the flare wrench and really getting it tight - after that: no leaks. Thanks again to Tim for this guide. I'm thinking of getting a hacksaw and cutting the filter open to see what the filter media looks like after 300k miles.
Good job getting it done David. I don't know if you checked out the video description but we mention the use of some motor oil on the end of the flared tubing end to help create a leak-free connection with the fuel filter. I have tried it and it does help. If you use more videos from us in the future, always check the video description and any pinned comment because both areas will have helpful information in them.
Timmy The Toolman yeah, I forgot to mention that - I did put a few drops of oil in the ends (Mobil 1, no less), and the flares threaded on really easily. Maybe that’s why it seemed so odd that it’d leak. The flare wrench from Autozone was pretty short, though, so not much leverage. Thanks again!
Normally I would be critical of lengthy videos concerning relatively simple procedures. But the extra coverage Mr. Toolman provides is insightful. He spends more time discussing safety issues, precautions, and sequencing than on changing the fuel filter. Given the danger, that is important non-documented information, gained from experience, that DIY mechanics should know. So my only criticism is you never go under vehicles without safety glasses. Its too easy for a particle to flake off and land in your eye.
Thanks for your feedback. It only takes one time to get something nasty in your eye to ruin your day. Our channel revolves around too much info than not enough & sometimes this results in a lengthy video. But thats why they invented fast forward. best invention ever.
Perfect instructions. Thank you once again for your videos. I unhooked the negative battery cable and just undid my gas cap and I had very little drippage.
Thank you Timmy! I watched this video a few times and wrote down all the wrench sizes, etc. and it made the job a breeze! My 2002 is running like a champ, great job, very much appreciated!
Hey Tom, you're welcome. Glad our video helped you out and that you appreciate the extra detail our videos offer. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Timmy...love your vids. I'm not really all that mechanically 'able', but i've watched a bunch of your vids, and it takes a lot of the stress away seeing someone else doing it first...correctly. About to do my filter later today. And honestly, I swear you sound like you have a Canadian accent (I'm Canadian living in LA), so if you ever go up there, you'll fit right in! :)
I sound Canadian, Eh? LOL Sounds like our videos are inspiring you to turn wrenches which is awesome to hear. One of our main goals is to empower people to do their own automotive work. Good luck with the filter swap. Those fittings need to be very tight to be leak-free and don't forget a little dab of motor oil on the flared tubing end will help the fuel line make a leak-free connection with the filter. Happy Wrenching!
Thanks for saying so. Keeping the camera as steady as possible is one of the things we strive for. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Just did one on my 1991 and as it turns out it's never been done before so after 164k and about 28 years it sure needed it. Was a pain in the ass though.
For those of you in the rust belt, if the engine side flare nut has welded itself to the line (which is often the case), it is possible to rotate the filter off (even with the bracket still attached). 1: Make sure both flare nuts are indeed broken free of the filter (you'll only see maybe like 1/8 of a turns worth of movement at this point but just be sure it is moving independently of the filter). I had to use vice grips on the now very round engine side flare nut after a few failed attempts with a flare nut wrench. 2: Remove 2 filter bracket 10mm mounting nuts. 3: Remove fuel line from the clip just upstream from the filter and remove the middle line from that clip as well so that the clip hangs down and out of the way. 4: Remove tank side flare nut and line from filter. 5: Carefully twist the filter off of the engine side line (I left my filter bracket attached to the filter for this and there was just enough room/play in the line to pull this off without bending it. 6: Twist new filter onto the frozen flare nut and tighten. 7: Slide the bracket onto the new filter and position in place (the ridges in the new filter will likely not lineup with the slots in the bracket. If that's the case you'll likely need a longer bolt to hold the bracket shut). 8: Attach the feed line and tighten. 9: Tighten bracket nuts and press engine side line back into clip. Not pretty but it works and no leaks so far.
Thanks for your videos. My 04 V-6 tundra was in a crank no start until I changed the fuel filter. With 203K I’d say it was about time. Next up the valve cover gaskets.
Hey I’ve got the tundra v-6 I’ve never had to replace valve cover gaskets just snug them up with a 10 mm they tend to loosen up probably every once a year every six months I don’t mean overtighten them just snug them up
Pretty interesting the location of this fuel filter. Another awesome video. Thanks Timmy for such great explanations and Sean for fantastic camera work.
Thanks. Production improvements are mostly due to Sean's efforts. Sean bought the GoPro Hero 5 which gives us the HD video quality. He got us an external mic to improve our audio and we're going to be trying out some other mics he also bought recently. He's also the one that adds all the cool effects to the videos. I'm the one that does most of the research for the jobs, buys any necessary tools and responds to most of the comments and questions that come in from viewers. I also post our videos on forums like T4R.org, tacomaworld.com, and the Facebook page 3rd Gen Mafia to get the videos out there to more people. I frequent these forums and pages answering questions for people, and when appropriate, provide a link to one of our videos. I think we have a good partnership because even though it appears I have more responsibility than Sean, we actually have divided the work load pretty evenly because the video editing is very labor intensive. I sometimes even help with the editing because it's so time consuming. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Hi Timmy, thank you for the great detailed video. I Have a 2000 Toyota Tacoma single cab 2.4L engine that have never been opened or in the shop for nothing more than regular maintenance, years back I replaced the EGR valve and that is one of the major things it has done; it was running last time I park it. I wonder if the location of the filter is the same, would be very difficult for me to remove power to the pump as for this I would have to drop the tank and I have no lift or remove the camper and then the bed to get access to it. Mine have been sitting for over 5 years without starting, it only starts with starting fluid and runs rough for 3 to 5 seconds or less and dies; I have some carbon deposits that exited from the left exhaust pipe I have a Duralast aftermarket fuel filter bought in Autozone years back; the one installed its the original one with 209000 in the odometer it may be bad or maybe the lines are gunk out, I left it with very little gas less than half gallon. I checked the Mass Air Sensor and it seems in good shape, no dirt on it so I was recommended to look at the air filter, hope it is not the fuel pump as this will be more difficult; my air filter is not clogged, I run a K&N, I have new spark plugs but not installed yet, want to start engine, drop some engine cleaner for few mins and do a fresh oil change but I need it to run first. Any ideas?
The filter for the 2.4L models is in a different location. It's somewhere in the engine compartment and I've heard it's hard to get to. I've never replaced one for this engine. Put more fuel in it and try to start it.
Thanks Pete. We joke around when we make the videos so Sean sometimes adds outtakes at the end of the video along with his funny flashes of pics on the screen to play on things I say. We will keep them coming. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
That's a bummer. I guess you're going to need a new fuel line if the flare nut is rounded off. Maybe you could grab a fuel line off a wrecked 3rd Gen at a PickNPull.
Hey Tim tell Paul that he has a sick lil runner their!!!! See what a lil peer pressure can do! Dude went out a bought the last year available for the 3rd gen!! Thanks again for another great vid
My 2000 Camry is similar, the filter, not the way it connects or the location but I am planning on changing the fuel filter soon. I would want to also lubricate the fittings to make it easier for future fuel filter replacements. I saw that you did not use any on this video even though you had to wrestle the fittings off. The 2000 Camry's bottom line fitting is notorious for being very difficult to get loose. Many have been cross threaded by high speed equipment at the factory and many fuel lines have been destroyed in the attempt. If you had to recommend a type of grease to use, what would that be?
The FSM only recommends using a little motor oil on the flanged tubing end to assist in creating a leak-free connection. I have used the motor oil for this purpose and it does assist in making the connection leak free. Without the motor oil, you really have to crank those fitting super tight to prevent any leaking of fuel. if you wanted to lubricate the threads with anything, I'd just use a couple dabs of motor oil. But, like I said, the FSM doesn't recommend any lubrication of the threads.
What service manual are you using in video, i got a hays and isnt as helpful with location of fuel pump power source like your manual! Feel yours is better and would like to get! Thanks for the video!
It's a Toyota factory service manual. You can usually find them for sale used on Ebay. Just do a search for your year. Haynes manuals are garbage compared to factory ones.
Great, super informative video as always! I looked for an access panel before but I couldn't find it since I didn't pull the carpet back far enough! Now I know, awesome!
We're glad you like the video. When I was researching this job, I had my hand crammed between the body and gas tank trying to feel for the electrical connection to the fuel pump. It wasn't until I found a TH-cam video that showed where the access panel was that I finally understood what the Factory Service Manual was trying to show in that picture.
Just completed this repair. Thanks so much for the video. Question around leak: how does the leak look? Visible dripping or is it very slight? I initially had visible dripping, which I think was due to cross-threading...I took care of that, and now there is no visible dripping...am I good to go, or is there any other way to test?
You're very welcome. The leak can be slight. You have to look at the connection and see if fuel starts to seep out and make the connection wet. It will eventually turn into a drip making it obvious. If you don't feel any wetness and you don't see a drip forming, you're good.
Thanks for the part’s recommendation - just ordered they get here next week. Car won’t start so swapping fuel filter and spark plug wiring (easy repairs). Hopefully fixes it and can avoid taking it in
@@TimmyTheToolman yeah but don’t want to drop my tank (wish it could just come out thru the back seat) so going to try this first. When it wouldn’t start it happened super randomly after running great p (had just swapped spark plugs) and it didn’t throw an error code. Engine cranks normally but won’t start.
@@ShaunRamage It sounds like it could be the fuel pump. You could disconnect one of the fuel lines and have someone crank the engine to see if fuel is ejecting out. Obviously do it in a place with no ignition sources.
Thanks for the video Timmy... just just wanted to add that doing a fuel filter change on my 2000 SR5 was kind of a nightmare. Looks super easy and straight forward but the tiny bit of corrosion on the flare nuts after 19 years made getting the filter tight almost impossible. Took the damn thing off and on 4 times leaking gas everywhere still couldn't get it to seat correctly, spewing gas from both sides of the filter. I tried a Wix brand instead of the OEM and it leaked less but i had to crank the damn flare nuts to the point of rounding off the nuts. Glad i got it changed but YEOW that sucked!
Getting the connection leak-proof can be a pain in the butt. The Toyota factory service manual does suggest putting a little motor oil on the flared tubing end to help make a better seal. We mentioned this in the video description. Going forward, always read through the video description and look for a pinned comment from us. They will both offer further helpful information we didn't include in the video.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks man...ooo i put the oil on there buddy didn't seem to help. The Wix filter even kept leaking a very tiny amount but it stopped after about 24 hours. Man i was stressing but its all good now. Really enjoy all your videos. I've had my 3rd gen for 7 years and hope to keep her running strong for a long time with help from your channel. SICKMODS!
@@zh3717 Roger that. I also forgot to mention in the video that I've seen little strands of metal on the end of the flared tubing like a little sliver of the tubing broke free. I think this little loose strand can cause issues with the connection. I've seen it on 3 fuel filter replacements I've done. Good to hear you're finding our videos helpful. Sicmods Brah!
No, there is no fuse that just isolates power to the fuel pump. If you don't want to bother lifting the seat to access the fuel assembly plug, you can try just removing the gas cap and letting the rig sit for a while. People have reported this does a good job of depressurizing the lines.
Under the rug is the access hatch through the body so you can disconnect the electrical plug to the fuel pump. The fuel pump is inside the fuel tank. If you're interested about this subject, this video will provide you with a lot more info of how all the parts come together. th-cam.com/video/GrzX_K-jcuo/w-d-xo.html
Mr Timmy I have a Toyota Hilux Surf 1999 model its a 2.7 ltr petrol (RZN 185) I was unable to find the fuel filter underneath the left side under the shield. Im guessing its inside the fuel tank. Can you please shed some light on the location.
The 2.7 liter engine has the fuel filter in a different location and it's supposedly hard to get to. We haven't done this job on a 4runner with this engine. If I get a chance, I'll look it up in my manual but I'm pretty busy right now with a couple big jobs we are going to be filming. If I forget to get back to you, message us again about it.
Hey Timmy, just did this fix with no issues. But I started the motor again now the inlet side is a constant drip. Got it as tight as I could also. Think bad flare nut?
Hey Adam, disconnect the side that is leaking and take a good luck at the flared end of the tubing. Sometimes a sliver of metal tears off and it might be causing it to not seat correctly. In addition, take some motor oil and lubricate the flared end on the tubing. You're not putting in on the threads of the fitting, just on the flared tubing. The motor oil helps make a leak proof seal. Finally, those connections need to be very tight, the difference between a leak and no leak might be a small fraction of a turn, like 1/32 or 1/64. Let me know how it goes.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you! Going to be going out in a bit and looking at it all. I actually checked out the line going to it from a parts truck and it slowed, but sadly still there. Thanks for the tips
many moons ago I replaced the fuel filter on a ford van, my buddy who was helping me got sprayed in the face with gasoline because we didn't relieve the fuel pressure. Ive done it twice on my ford truck and you better believe I relieved the pressure both times.
When I replaced the fuel filter on my 4runner, I didn't own a factory service manual and just followed a write-up I found on a Toyota forum. The write-up said to take the gas cap off to relieve pressure but I think this person was just guessing it would relieve pressure on the fuel lines. When you really think about it though, just taking the gas cap off is going to do nothing to relieve pressure on the fuel line between the gas tank and the fuel filter and it's also going to do nothing to relieve pressure in the line between the fuel filter and the engine. Taking the pressure off the lines not only reduces your chances of getting sprayed in the face with gasoline but it makes it easier to break free those flare nut fittings. Connections under pressure are always much harder to break free.
I like to DIY repairing my 1993 Toyota Mighty-X. Can you suggest detail manual to service my truck? I saw in this vdo, you have a nice service manual for that car.
On other cars that I have worked on, the fuel pump primes when you put the key in prior to starting the car. I do that a few times to get the filter full of fuel before I start the motor. Cranks up immediately. Not sure if the pump primes on these the same way.
Hi Tim, looks like I have to replace the fuel line from filter to engine as well as fuel filter on my 2002 Tacoma 3.4 . Any tips for removing those fuel line line clamps? I think there are 3 or 4 of them I have to remove to hold and reroute the new fuel line. Thanks
Hello love your videos! I have a 4runner 2002 and when I have my gas tank at half and I go to fill it. It'll keep shutting off the gas pump. But if I go to the gas station with a almost complete empty tank with the gas light on. Then the pump will fill up just fine what do you think it is?
Hey Sam, glad you're enjoying our videos. Your problem sounds like it might be related to the evap canister. It's not venting properly when you fill your tank. It could also be an issue with the vent tube that connects to the filler nozzle but that seems much less likely because it would only be an issue if the hose was somehow able to get kinked. I would look up information about troubleshooting venting issues with the evap canister. Your evap canister is under the rig in front of the spare tire. Remove the spare tire to have an easier time getting in there.
Oh and one last thing sorry I forgot to also mention. , I've changed my spark plugs and wires and has well cleaned the throttle body on my 2002 4runner limited about 2 months ago And I completed all the drivecycle that I had such has the o2 sensor and evap has well other things . But the only one thing that won't go away still is the catalytic converter incomplete whys that? Or anything i can do and there’s no codes and live data looks right. Pretty sure just the incomplete cycle.
@@samabdelhadi3037 I have heard those drive cycles are very specific and hard to complete. I've never tried one but that's what I have heard. It might be something you have to do in the middle of the night with very few cars on the road and you can get on some lonely highway and get it done.
Hi, The fuel filter I bought came with 2 metal washers. I didn't see them mentioned in your video, I assume they are for the new filter during installation?
They might be for the bracket that holds the filter but they are not for the fuel line connections to the fuel filter. I honestly don't remember washers but I haven't reviewed this video for a long time either.
Hey I know this video is old. I'm trying to find out at what interval I should change the fuel filter? I apologize if you said it in the video maybe I missed it. How many miles should it be changed?
Timmy, i have a 2000 toyota tundra with a 4.7L engine. My fuel filter is very similar to this one and it would be easy to change if it wasn't so hard to prevent it from leaking. The pressure i have to apply could strip the threads on the fitting. Is it ok to use that yellow nylon tape made for gasoline on these filters? I've wondered why this is never mentioned. I also wonder how hard it is to fix if i did strip the threads on the fitting. Thanks!
You DO NOT want to use teflon tape. This isn't a home gas fitting that would take tape like that. This is a different type of connection like a brake line connection or a power steering hose connection. None of them use teflon tape or any type of thread sealant. Now, have people gotten away with it? Yes, but I would never recommend it. Try this, disconnect the lines and add a little motor oil to the flared tubing ends. You're not lubricating the fitting threads, just the flared end of the tubing. Now reassemble it. The oil helps make a leak-free seal of the flared tubing end with the filter. if you're not using a flare nut wrench, you should be. Using a regular box end wrench is risky because it does require significant tightness to keep these connections from leaking. The difference between leaking and not leaking can be a tiny amount, like 1/64 of a turn. Good luck!
Another great video... thank you... I noticed that you have a roof rack on your 4Runner that's parked in your garage. Can I ask what brand that is? I have a 2000 myself and can't find one that I like... also I'm getting a lot of outside smells when running my A/C. Any recommendations. Thanks again...
That was Sean's truck in the garage and his rack is made by Gobi. Are you running the AC with fresh air coming in or are you recirculating the cabin air?
No, because then how would you start the vehicle to de-pressurize the fuel lines with the battery disconnected? If you're looking for an easier way, taking off the fuel cap and waiting a while does seem to work pretty well to take de=pressurize the lines. I didn't think it would work that well when I shot the video, but I've learned after the fact that it does work pretty good.
@@TimmyTheToolman No I had a fuel leak about 1/2 Cup just idling So disconnected the battery so all fuel would n’t leak out overnight Then next day connected battery & drove 2 block then repeat the process No more then a small stain 3”x3” spot
This is a really subjective topic and my opinion is just one opinion. If you go on T4R.org there's info threads that cover all the differences between the model years and you can make your own informed decision.
Always great videos, while the car is on couldn’t you pull the fuel pump fuse and that will relive the fuel line pressure as well? This video reminded me that I got to change my 3rd gen fuel filter ASAP..
Hey Joel, glad you like the video. The reason why the FSM recommends disconnecting the power at the fuel pump is because there is no fuel pump fuse. There's an EFI relay but that will just shut down power to the injectors. But, it seems taking off the gas cap and releasing pressure in the tank does a lot to reduce the pressure in the lines. So, if you don't feel like disconnecting the power to the fuel pump and then running the engine briefly, try just taking off the gas cap and letting the vehicle sit for a while before trying to break the connections free at the fuel filter. Make sure you remember the trick of putting a little engine oil on the flared ends of the tubing before reconnecting the lines to the new filter. It does help make a leak-free connection. Happy Wrenching!
Replacing the filter won't help. You most likely have an issue either with the fuel sending unit or a circuit board. We have a video for dropping the tank, testing the fuel sending unit and replacing it. In the video description is a link to a TSB that covers the circuit board issue. th-cam.com/video/GrzX_K-jcuo/w-d-xo.html
Hey Tim, the input and output fuel lines on my 03 Tacoma are extremely rust welded onto the fuel filter. Truck's around 205k miles. I sprayed penetrating fluid several times a day for a week, plus tapped the fittings with a hammer and when I used a flare nut wrench to loosen it began to round off the nut on the fuel line. Obviously I shouldn't hit the nut with a torch but would my next best option be to use a heat gun? Or am I likely going to have to replace the fuel lines to replace this filter?
The heat gun route might work but I'm guessing you might have to replace the fuel lines if you really want to continue with trying to replace the filter. Maybe the smart move is to just leave it be as long as the engine is running ok.
Got an aftermarket fuel filter from advanced unmarked which direction t gas flow is , seems to be opposite of the factory Toyota one but then each model seems to have the fuel filter pointed in a different direction, I’m not sure how to tell which Direction filter goes in not knowing if the guy before me changed it out the right way any help would be great
My advice is to return the aftermarket filter and get an OEM filter and then your problem will be solved. I know it's more money but it's the best advice I can give you. Good luck.
Timmy, I messed up the flare nut on the fuel line coming from the gas tank when I change the fuel filter 10 yrs ago on my 97 4runner. I Google the fuel line and I can't find a store that sell fuel line repair kit. Can you recommend a website where I can buy the repair kit. Thanks and I watched this video and I am learning the right way to do it.
Maybe you could visit a wrecking yard local to you and pull that fuel line off a wrecked 3rd Gen 4runner. I don't know of a "Repair Kit". With the nut stripped, you would have to cut the line to get the nut off and now even if you had a tube flaring tool and new nut, the fuel line would be too short. You could also visit your local Toyota dealer and see what they would charge for that line.
Could you do a video on how to correct the issue of the gas gauge not reading correctly? I’m getting maybe on a good day 180 miles per tank but when it’s on empty it only takes around 10 gallons. They do have 18-19 gallon tanks correct? Thanks Clint
Hey Clint, my gas gauge is off too. When I'm on empty, it only takes 14 gallons. Our gas tanks hold 18 gallons. I haven't researched yet what the possible fixes are but it would make a good video.
Timmy The Toolman ah ok. Well I will definitely be looking forward to it. It's one of my pet peeves with mine. But I love your channel! Keep it up!! Just wish mine looked like your alls underneath. It's from NYC so it's pretty rusty!
Yeah, the areas of the country where they salt the roads is brutal on vehicles. It would be great if there was another option other than salt to combat icy conditions that wouldn't destroy vehicles.
twwtb It wasn't intentional by Toyota. These fuel tank gauges are known to be become inaccurate over time. They didn't start out being this far off. It doesn't bother me enough to drop the tank and replace the gauge sending unit, because the way I look at it, it's giving us an extra buffer so we don't stupidly run out of gas. But, because Sean and I are in the video making business, we probably will do it at some point.
**In addition to disconnecting the power to the fuel pump and running the engine until it stalls, taking the gas cap off the fill neck helps reduce the pressure in the lines. I learned this when doing the fuel sending unit replacement video.
**Ok, because so many people ask this question, I'm gong to cover it in this pinned comment. The question people alway ask is, "Why can't you just pull the fuse to the fuel pump?" The answer is, whether you pull the 15 amp EFI fuse or you pull the EFI relay, that does cut the power to the fuel pump, but it also cuts power to the fuel injectors. By disconnecting the plug to the fuel pump like we instruct in the video, you are isolating the disconnect to JUST the fuel pump. By doing this, you keep the fuel injectors firing. The reason why you want no power to the fuel pump but continued power to the fuel injectors, is because with the fuel injectors still firing with the fuel pump disabled, the fuel pressure in the lines will be reduced making it easier for you you do disconnect the fuel lines and have less fuel spewing out. Make sense? I hope so.
Could you just disconnect the battery???
No, disconnecting the battery won't do anything to depressurize the fuel lines. You want to engine to run briefly, and with the battery off, that can't happen.
Would it be easier to remove fuel pump fuse?
@@frankli8881 That's the problem Frank. There isn't a fuel pump fuse on these rigs. That's why the factory service manual instructs to disconnect the plug at the fuel pump. There is an EFI fuse or EFI relay you can pull, but it not only disconnects power to the fuel pump, it disconnects power to the fuel injectors as well. You want to keep power to the fuel injectors so they can fire for that brief period when you start it to depressurize the lines. I have learned since doing this job that taking the gas cap off does help depressurize the lines. If you don't want to bother pulling up the rear carpet to access the hatch above the fuel pump, take off the gas cap and let the rig sit for a while.
@@frankli8881 efi relay in little black box right behind battery
Great vid. I’ve got a ‘97 Runner with 348k miles and have never changed out the fuel filter. You know what I’ll be doing this weekend.
Yeah, I'd say it's about time. Glad you like the video and good luck with the job.
Thanks for making videos like these Tim. I truly appreciate the time and effort in making them. It gives a guy like me the confidence to work on a vehicle which I was never allowed to touch at a young age by my dad. TH-camrs like you (shoutout to Sean), Kilmer and ChrisFix have filled up the automotive 'missed step' in my childhood that i had to go back to later in life. My deepest gratitude and more power to your channel! Happy wrenching!
It's really awesome to hear this because it's our main goal to encourage and empower people to turn wrenches and learn a valuable skill while saving themselves a ton of money. It's never too late to learn so good job taking on the challenge of automotive mechanics. Thanks for taking the time to share this with us. We really appreciate it and never get tired of hear this. Happy Wrenching back at ya!
AMD: The Car Care Nut also. 👍🏻
I have never and I mean never have I seen someone explain a video more informative than this guy, good job sir..😊
That’s what we do! Hope you’re subscribed!
- Sean
Tim you saved my neck again! I had to change the fuel filter on my 98 4Runner after I got everything snugged up the outlet side of the filter towards the engine just kept on wanting to drip. So I watched your video and I loosened the outlet fitting, I wiped off the threads put some fresh engine oil on the threads ,snugged it up and no more leak! thank you so much Tim! Next time I'm in California I'm going to look you up and bring you a case of beer and a stripper or maybe two strippers and a case of beer!!
You're welcome! Good to hear a tip from our video helped you out. Strippers and beer, hell yeah! Just make sure they're female strippers. People are into all kinds of interesting things these days but Sean and I fly pretty straight ;-) Some nice strong IPAs, doubles and triples would be awesome. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman Lol!!!
you've helped me take a totally messed up 98 4runner and turn it into a beast. your channel is awesome.
Great to hear our videos have helped you build your beast of a 4runner. We appreciate the compliment.
Timmy, you leave no stone unturned. Well done!
Thanks for the comment. Sean and I try our best to do a comprehensive job with our videos. We're obviously not perfect and miss things but we want people to be successful following our tutorials so we try not to miss imparting anything crucial. On some videos, we've had to go back and add new clips to clean things up to make sure people get the correct procedure or information and then sometimes we add a pinned comment and/or add notes in the video description as we learn more about a job and want to share that knowledge with our viewers. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
My mechanic recently changed my fuel filter in my car with turn on and turn off I did exactly what you said I basically left the battery connect that I put my seat down disconnected the wiring and acted like I was going to turn on my car immediately I saw the gauge go down I open my gas tank I disconnected my battery I gave it a few minutes I went with my car and after that I reconnected the wiring I put my seat back down I connected my battery again and it worked perfect thank you so much everyone was telling me it was the fuel pump you saved me money God bless you and your channel
You're very welcome. Glad our video helped you out.
Your videos may possibly be the most detailed of all the repair ones, and that of especially the 3rd gens! Thank you! This made me a subscriber. 👍
Thanks for the nice compliment. We appreciate it. It is interesting to note that some people have criticized us for the length of our videos and we always give the same response. We're not gearing our videos towards the experienced mechanic or DIYer. We're gearing our videos towards the absolute beginner. By doing this, we are ensuring a greater percentage of people being successful following one of our video tutorials. Happy Wrenching and welcome to our channel.
This job is so much easier on the 5vzfe. Do you have a video on the 2rzfe?
Also, I admire how you follow the Factory Service Manual step by step. Very organized and punctual. I've had three tacomas so far, but currently I have a 1998 toyota tacoma with the 2rzfe and only 100,900 miles. I'm 20 yrs old and I just wanted something super reliable. And the 2rz-fe is based on the legendary 22re. Though, I do miss having a 4x4. Anyway, you're the best.
Thanks for the compliment for our channel. We unfortunately don't have a video for replacing the fuel filter on the 2RZ-FE engine. We've only worked on this engine one time. It is very similar to the 3RZ-FE engine, which we do have more videos for. Just do a search on our channel for those videos, which will probably help you out one day. If you live close to the California Bay Area, we'd be interested in helping you with your fuel filter replacement.
@@TimmyTheToolman No problem. Yeah i end up watching a lot of 3RZ videos which seem way more common than the 2rz. I used to live in the bay area! I live in SLO now, which is still pretty close. I would love to come up on a weekend you’re free and do the fuel filter. That would be awesome because I’m trying to do a lot of preventative maintenance so it lasts me forever
@@aliensubject613 If you make the trip to San Jose, we'll help you with the fuel filter replacement and film it.
@@TimmyTheToolman I definitely want to make the trip! I don’t have Friday classes this quarter, so I can come pretty much any weekend! Thanks so much for this offer
@@aliensubject613 Just let me know when you're ready and we'll try to find a date that works for both of us. A Saturday would be preferred. Email me: tim@timmythetoolman.com
Thank you so much for your very helpful videos, Timmy. I am an original owner of a '01 4runner in the SF Bay Area. Toyota101 dealer did my last fuel filter change at 105K miles. Your very informative video gave me the courage to perform this fuel filter change myself today after 70K miles. First time in 18yrs of ownership, I looked under the carpet to get to the hatch cover above the gas tank. Yikes, the cover wasn't completely sealed. I followed your steps. I was so worried when my fuel gauge show empty and the yellow low fuel light came on. I thought I fried a fuse or the fuel gauge, but the fuel gauge worked fine after I reconnected the fuel pump. Whew! I was able to get three fluttering starts after fuel pump was disconnect. I didn't experience any fuel spray. The fuel dripped on to a rag. About 2 table spoons in total. I used a dab of motor oil on each end of the fuel tube flanges. Drove down and back up 92 this afternoon...Yippy, no leaks! I shook the old filter over a white piece of paper and black dirt came out with tan/yellow color fuel.
You're very welcome and thanks for taking the time to comment. Good to hear the job went smooth for you. Happy Wrenching!
I replaced mine yesterday and this video was very helpful! One note - I relieved the pressure in the fuel lines by following your advice and disconnecting the fuel pump. That seemed to relieve the pressure only in the filter-to-engine line. When I unscrewed the tank-to-filter line, gas flowed out of the line at a slow and steady stream for 20+ seconds. I removed the fuel tank cap to depressurize it (I heard it hiss when I removed the cap) and the stream immediately changed to a few drips and then stopped. In the future, I'll know to depressurize the system by doing BOTH things - start the engine with the pump unplugged and remove the fuel tank cap.
Good to know about taking off the fuel cap to reduce pressure in the line from the tank.
Thanks Tim and co. I finally did this two weeks ago and followed the video step by step. Everything went smoothly. I was slacking on getting this done for no reason at all, but it's done now. Thanks again for taking your time to do these videos for the entire Toyota 4Runner community.
You guys rock!
Hey Kyle, glad the job went well for you and you're very welcome. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Just did this on my Tacoma 4x4 1996.
(Just for anyone with this truck, the conector for the fuel pump is kinda behind the pilot rear tire. And the lip for releasing it is facing the co-pilot rear tire).
Thank you Timmy. It is great to be able to do this on our own.
Good job. Thanks for the info about the fuel pump connector on the 1st Gen Tacoma. You're very welcome.
I changed my fuel pump yesterday on a 6th Gen. Celica. I wish I had seen this video prior to doing so.
Live an learn (and I did learn!). Why not just relay that connects to the fuel pump instead of tear up the back seat and unplug it? Plan every step of this job up front.
Make sure there is fresh air, there are no ignition sources, and make sure you have enough pans available to catch that gasoline. Plan
Also, have the flair-nut wrench (line wrenches) ready, and I couldn't release the flair-nuts until after I hit it with a spray of an upside down bottle of compressed air to freeze the nut. Then it released and came off pretty quickly.
And thanks to you guys for inhaling all those fumes to make this video.
There is no relay that you can disconnect for the fuel pump on a 3rd Gen 4runner and that's why the Toyota factory service manual instructs to disconnect the electrical connector at the fuel pump sending unit assembly.
@@TimmyTheToolman Makes sense, and a good reason to make sure you have a manual. Thanks.
@@wellnesspathforme6236 Yes, factory manuals come in handy.
Just completed this job using your video for guidance. Thanks! I did run into an issue when installing the new filter. The fuel lines did not line up with the threads of the new filter. The geometry was off. I had to hand thread the fittings before mounting the filter to the vehicle. Got them threaded on then mounted the filter. I then torqued the fittings and did a leak check. Just wanted to throw this in here in case someone ran into this issue. It was an OEM filter as well.
That's weird that you had trouble lining up fittings. I've never heard of this.
I thought it was odd too. When I first went to line them up I noticed right away that it wasn’t right. So I pulled it off and set it next to the old one. All looked the same. Either way, once I put it on it sealed fine. No leaks, I’ve checked everyday since doing the job.
Best Toyota Fuel Filter tutorial out there.
Thanks Doc! That means a lot to us. Flex head flare wrenches are def worth the investment when you get into some tight spaces.
- Sean
Did this today while staying home and practicing social distancing on my day off. Just wanted to express my gratitude to guys like you on TH-cam who take time out to share knowledge with guys like me who want to learn and save money by working on their cars. The flare nut wrenches worked like a charm and i followed the fsm to use a bit of oil on the threads. I have a 98 t4r and use it as my daily driver to get to the dialysis clinic and treat patients. You're very much appreciated Tim. Be safe out there in San Diego. - shoutout from WA state 👍
Hey Carlo, glad our video helped you out and that you appreciate what Sean and I are doing. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Not all heroes wear capes. Awesome write up, thanks a lot. Just bought a '98 T4R.
Glad you like the video. Welcome to the 3rd Gen 4runner Club. Happy Wrenching!
Referencing the savings in time and money, my mechanic wanted me to make an appointment next week sometime to do this and charge me $225. I just bought the filter (from Napa, not OEM) and the 14 & 19 line wrenches for $40. Going to do it in my driveway tomorrow. If it takes me more than an hour I’ll be surprised.
Great Video. Thanks. SUBSCRIBED.
Yep, doing your own work will save you lots of money. Glad you chose to do this job yourself using our video as a reference. Hope the job went smooth for you.
Thank you for that lesson on vapor density. Very interesting and good stuff to know. Especially where open flames are concerned!
You're welcome Steve. I guess I still remember a few things from my firefighting training.
Timmy The Toolman great videos overall, by the way!
Thanks Steve. We're glad you like what we're doing with the videos. Sean and I put a lot of time and effort into them so the positive feedback definitely helps maintain our motivation to keep cranking them out. Happy Wrenching!
Timmy The Toolman well definitely keep cranking them out guys! ️😊
We will, we will! We're having too much fun to stop now.
Good job. When I replaced my fuel filter with a new one that I purchased from a Toyota dealer, it leaked. It was defective with a damaged seat inside it. I had to exchange it for another one. It seems it is a common issue with these filters. When replacing the filter, tighten both inlet and outlet connections slowly and equally.
To depressurize the system, I pulled the EFI fuse and ran the engine until it lost fuel pressure (Per the comment from another viewer). It worked!!!!.
I'm not so sure it's a problem with the new filter having a damaged seat. These connections can be tricky to not leak. One thing is tiny metal slivers can be hanging from the end of the flared tubing, Any metal debris should be removed. Another thing is putting a little motor oil on the flared tubing end can help the connection seat better and not leak. Lastly, these connections need to be TIGHT. The difference between leaking and not leaking could be the slightest turn, like 1/64 of a turn.
Once again a very precise and step by step easy to understand video 📹 👌 Great job 👍
Thanks for the compliment. If you don't want to bother with disconnecting the power supply to the fuel pump, I did learn after shooting this video thst simply taking off the gas cap and waiting a little while does a pretty good job to depressurize the fuel lines.
@@TimmyTheToolman Sounds like a great idea to me. I also found a couple of fb groups to get some more mod ideas and share with. One I believe your a member of too. Thanks 😊 again
Sir: working alone a on a perplexing P0305 code, I was most grateful you mentioned the wrench sizes (14mm, 119mm, 12 mm) necessary to do this replacement as I was able to do so without getting up and down several times.
The replacement solved the P0305. I realize now my faithful 2000 Tundra steed had been telling me this was the issue for months, as it was increasingly setting a P017n (too lean bank) when I stepped on it going up on-ramps. The old filter must be nearly plugged to have set the P0305. Many thanks and happy holidays!.
You're welcome Jerry. Glad our video helped you out. Good job fixing the issue with your rig. Happy Wrenching!
LOVE the water heater warning. Friend took his fuel tank into the basement (where the water heater lived) and yes ... explosion. No fire, just big boom.
Your friend... blew up...?
Thank you so much for this video! I was intimidated about this repair but figured I could handle it after watching your video. Also, it was really helpful that you described where the fuel pump disconnect is located on a Tacoma. I was able to find it and disconnect it using some right angle pliers, as you recommended. It was not coming off with just my fingers. I got the replacement done successfully, with no leaks at all and fairly minimal gas spillage. Much appreciated, and keep up the great videos!
You're welcome and good to hear you were able to get the job done with the help of our video. As you just learned, you can easily handle your own automotive work with the right information and the right tools. Things don't always go smooth or as planned and that's when the right level or patience comes in. If you're willing to learn, willing to invest in some tools and have the patience to overcome obstacles, you can do most of your own automotive work. I don't know if you'll end up rebuilding engines and transmissions one day, but you could do that too if you put the effort in. Thanks for taking the time to comment and share your success story with us. Happy Wrenching Brother!
Great safety advise for the DIYers when dealing with gas and vapors!! I have done this job many times over the years to my 2000 4Runner, and I knew when it was time to change the filter when starting the engine took extra cranks, about 30,000 miles of use. After replacement, cranked right up every time. They do get clogged!
Thanks Jake. It's weird how Toyota never advised a service interval for it or considered it a lifetime part. There's no way a fuel filter should ever be considered a lifetime part. It's similar to BMW saying their special synthetic automatic transmission fluid is lifetime. I wonder how many BMW customers had to buy new transmissions due to that idiotic claim. There's no way transmission fluid can last a lifetime.
Anyway, you got me thinking. I replaced my fuel filter around 50,000 miles ago. I should probably change mine again.
Timmy The Toolman Tim I saw a write about online about why Toyota doesn’t have a service interval for the fuel filters... It basically spoke about the quality of the part compared to other fuel filters, and the “normal lifetime” of a vehicle being around 100-150K miles... I don’t think the engineers considered the normal lifetime to be the 200K/20 plus years these trucks are going... I think the same theory may apply to the ATF... It could also have just been a non sense hype piece for Toyota...
I just did mine on my 2000 SR5. You most definitely need a 14mm flare wrench for two reasons: no way that thing comes loose without damaging that fitting and no way you're going to get it tight enough without it. I tried to cheat and get it apart with just an end wrench, and I could tell that it was about to yield the metal.
Ran to Autozone and got a 13/14mm flare wrench. It took a lot of torque to get them to start turning. When I got it all back together, it still leaked a lot out of one side. I pulled it apart and re-inspected for any burrs or defects, nada. Some guys on the T4R forum said it had to be really tight. I ended up daisy chaining another wrench to the flare wrench and really getting it tight - after that: no leaks.
Thanks again to Tim for this guide. I'm thinking of getting a hacksaw and cutting the filter open to see what the filter media looks like after 300k miles.
Good job getting it done David. I don't know if you checked out the video description but we mention the use of some motor oil on the end of the flared tubing end to help create a leak-free connection with the fuel filter. I have tried it and it does help. If you use more videos from us in the future, always check the video description and any pinned comment because both areas will have helpful information in them.
Timmy The Toolman yeah, I forgot to mention that - I did put a few drops of oil in the ends (Mobil 1, no less), and the flares threaded on really easily. Maybe that’s why it seemed so odd that it’d leak. The flare wrench from Autozone was pretty short, though, so not much leverage. Thanks again!
@@toastrecon Gotcha. These lines like you found out have to be really tight not to leak.
Normally I would be critical of lengthy videos concerning relatively simple procedures. But the extra coverage Mr. Toolman provides is insightful. He spends more time discussing safety issues, precautions, and sequencing than on changing the fuel filter. Given the danger, that is important non-documented information, gained from experience, that DIY mechanics should know. So my only criticism is you never go under vehicles without safety glasses. Its too easy for a particle to flake off and land in your eye.
Thanks for your feedback. It only takes one time to get something nasty in your eye to ruin your day. Our channel revolves around too much info than not enough & sometimes this results in a lengthy video. But thats why they invented fast forward. best invention ever.
Man, I wish i lived near you. You do great work brother.
Thanks Carlo. We'll drink a beer for you brother.
Perfect instructions. Thank you once again for your videos. I unhooked the negative battery cable and just undid my gas cap and I had very little drippage.
Thanks Greg and you're very welcome. Yes, it seems removing the gas cap depressurizes the system very well.
Thank you Timmy! I watched this video a few times and wrote down all the wrench sizes, etc. and it made the job a breeze! My 2002 is running like a champ, great job, very much appreciated!
Hey Tom, you're welcome. Glad our video helped you out and that you appreciate the extra detail our videos offer. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Awesome video, the best explanation I've seen on the web on this subject!
Thanks Sergei. We really appreciate the nice compliment. Happy Wrenching!
Gonna use this video to refresh my memory and do another fuel filter replacement on another 2002 Toyota 4runner Sport Edition...Thanks again Tim!
You're welcome.
What's deal with no fuel filters on Tacoma's? These are always great maintenance steps. Nice work man!
Timmy...love your vids. I'm not really all that mechanically 'able', but i've watched a bunch of your vids, and it takes a lot of the stress away seeing someone else doing it first...correctly. About to do my filter later today. And honestly, I swear you sound like you have a Canadian accent (I'm Canadian living in LA), so if you ever go up there, you'll fit right in! :)
I sound Canadian, Eh? LOL Sounds like our videos are inspiring you to turn wrenches which is awesome to hear. One of our main goals is to empower people to do their own automotive work. Good luck with the filter swap. Those fittings need to be very tight to be leak-free and don't forget a little dab of motor oil on the flared tubing end will help the fuel line make a leak-free connection with the filter. Happy Wrenching!
Excellent step by step R&R of the fuel pump. Thanks!
Thanks Jack and you're very welcome.
best video on this I've seen..no giggle camera so I don't get nauseous
Thanks for saying so. Keeping the camera as steady as possible is one of the things we strive for. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
You are da jefe
I'm grateful that your hobby is showing me how to do mine.
Glad our hobby is working out for you. Happy Wrenching!
Just did one on my 1991 and as it turns out it's never been done before so after 164k and about 28 years it sure needed it. Was a pain in the ass though.
For those of you in the rust belt, if the engine side flare nut has welded itself to the line (which is often the case), it is possible to rotate the filter off (even with the bracket still attached).
1: Make sure both flare nuts are indeed broken free of the filter (you'll only see maybe like 1/8 of a turns worth of movement at this point but just be sure it is moving independently of the filter). I had to use vice grips on the now very round engine side flare nut after a few failed attempts with a flare nut wrench.
2: Remove 2 filter bracket 10mm mounting nuts.
3: Remove fuel line from the clip just upstream from the filter and remove the middle line from that clip as well so that the clip hangs down and out of the way.
4: Remove tank side flare nut and line from filter.
5: Carefully twist the filter off of the engine side line (I left my filter bracket attached to the filter for this and there was just enough room/play in the line to pull this off without bending it.
6: Twist new filter onto the frozen flare nut and tighten.
7: Slide the bracket onto the new filter and position in place (the ridges in the new filter will likely not lineup with the slots in the bracket. If that's the case you'll likely need a longer bolt to hold the bracket shut).
8: Attach the feed line and tighten.
9: Tighten bracket nuts and press engine side line back into clip.
Not pretty but it works and no leaks so far.
Thanks for sharing these tips for the rust belt folks.
Thanks for your videos. My 04 V-6 tundra was in a crank no start until I changed the fuel filter. With 203K I’d say it was about time. Next up the valve cover gaskets.
You're very welcome. Hope the valve cover gasket job went smooth for you.
Hey I’ve got the tundra v-6 I’ve never had to replace valve cover gaskets just snug them up with a 10 mm they tend to loosen up probably every once a year every six months I don’t mean overtighten them just snug them up
Thanks!
Thanks Timmy, Followed yours and Seans video and my fuel filter replacement went perfect. You guys ROCK.. Next Im doing CV reboot on my 1999 4R. Russ
@@russellwilkins5424 You're very welcome Russell. Thanks for commenting. Good luck with the CV axle reboot.
Thank ypu for including the wrench sizes in this video because I'm about to do this right now
You're welcome. Hope the job went smooth for you.
Pretty interesting the location of this fuel filter. Another awesome video. Thanks Timmy for such great explanations and Sean for fantastic camera work.
You're welcome.
This video was very helpful, thanks a bunch!!!
You're very welcome John.
Thanks for sharing this video with us. I honestly appreciate your advice on this issue.
You're very welcome.
Just got done with this replacement...it went smooth, thanks to you!
You're welcome. Good to hear the job went well for you.
Another great video, Timmy. You guys are upping the production value!
Thanks. Production improvements are mostly due to Sean's efforts. Sean bought the GoPro Hero 5 which gives us the HD video quality. He got us an external mic to improve our audio and we're going to be trying out some other mics he also bought recently. He's also the one that adds all the cool effects to the videos.
I'm the one that does most of the research for the jobs, buys any necessary tools and responds to most of the comments and questions that come in from viewers. I also post our videos on forums like T4R.org, tacomaworld.com, and the Facebook page 3rd Gen Mafia to get the videos out there to more people. I frequent these forums and pages answering questions for people, and when appropriate, provide a link to one of our videos.
I think we have a good partnership because even though it appears I have more responsibility than Sean, we actually have divided the work load pretty evenly because the video editing is very labor intensive. I sometimes even help with the editing because it's so time consuming.
Thanks for taking the time to comment.
this is the best thing you can do for optimum performance...... this applies for every car. I did the URD mod for my tacoma 4 banger
Yes, unhindered fuel delivery to your engine is a good thing.
Excellent Video, I have a question can I perform this replacement on a 2007 4 runner?
We haven't done this on a 4th Gen 4runner. Don't know where the fuel filter is for that Gen, but I'm sure it can be done.
Your videos are amazing!!! Thanks Mr. Toolman! Much obliged!
Thanks. We appreciate the compliment. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Man is a complete badass, period...thank you!
We appreciate the bad ass compliment and you're very welcome!
That seatbelt tip at 26:40 blew my mind!
Good to know we're blowing people minds with our videos.
As usual Tim... Nicely done video. I like the fact that you talked about the safety issue if you have a hot water heater in the garage. Thanks
Valuable lessons you don’t want to learn the hard way. Be safe & keep wrenching my friend!
Hi Timmy, thank you for the great detailed video. I Have a 2000 Toyota Tacoma single cab 2.4L engine that have never been opened or in the shop for nothing more than regular maintenance, years back I replaced the EGR valve and that is one of the major things it has done; it was running last time I park it. I wonder if the location of the filter is the same, would be very difficult for me to remove power to the pump as for this I would have to drop the tank and I have no lift or remove the camper and then the bed to get access to it. Mine have been sitting for over 5 years without starting, it only starts with starting fluid and runs rough for 3 to 5 seconds or less and dies; I have some carbon deposits that exited from the left exhaust pipe I have a Duralast aftermarket fuel filter bought in Autozone years back; the one installed its the original one with 209000 in the odometer it may be bad or maybe the lines are gunk out, I left it with very little gas less than half gallon. I checked the Mass Air Sensor and it seems in good shape, no dirt on it so I was recommended to look at the air filter, hope it is not the fuel pump as this will be more difficult; my air filter is not clogged, I run a K&N, I have new spark plugs but not installed yet, want to start engine, drop some engine cleaner for few mins and do a fresh oil change but I need it to run first. Any ideas?
The filter for the 2.4L models is in a different location. It's somewhere in the engine compartment and I've heard it's hard to get to. I've never replaced one for this engine. Put more fuel in it and try to start it.
Oh man you read my mind! I was planning 0n doing this project this weekend!!! THANK YOU!
You're welcome. Hope the job goes smooth for you. Remember, flare nut wrenches are your friend when working with these types of fittings.
Like the bloopers at the end. Great videos, keep them coming!
Thanks Pete. We joke around when we make the videos so Sean sometimes adds outtakes at the end of the video along with his funny flashes of pics on the screen to play on things I say.
We will keep them coming. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Id say this was the most rewarding fix knowing ur truck gets clean fuel
And it's an easy job to do, so why not give your rig a little love.
Excellent Video!. You didn't miss a thing!
Thanks John!
19:10 very good advice. I didn't do this and now I have a partly removed flare nut on there. And it doesn't wanna let go lol
That's a bummer. I guess you're going to need a new fuel line if the flare nut is rounded off. Maybe you could grab a fuel line off a wrecked 3rd Gen at a PickNPull.
Hey Tim tell Paul that he has a sick lil runner their!!!! See what a lil peer pressure can do! Dude went out a bought the last year available for the 3rd gen!! Thanks again for another great vid
Yeah, Paul was feeling a little left out. He does have a nice 5th Gen though. Glad you like the video.
My 2000 Camry is similar, the filter, not the way it connects or the location but I am planning on changing the fuel filter soon. I would want to also lubricate the fittings to make it easier for future fuel filter replacements. I saw that you did not use any on this video even though you had to wrestle the fittings off. The 2000 Camry's bottom line fitting is notorious for being very difficult to get loose. Many have been cross threaded by high speed equipment at the factory and many fuel lines have been destroyed in the attempt. If you had to recommend a type of grease to use, what would that be?
The FSM only recommends using a little motor oil on the flanged tubing end to assist in creating a leak-free connection. I have used the motor oil for this purpose and it does assist in making the connection leak free. Without the motor oil, you really have to crank those fitting super tight to prevent any leaking of fuel. if you wanted to lubricate the threads with anything, I'd just use a couple dabs of motor oil. But, like I said, the FSM doesn't recommend any lubrication of the threads.
What service manual are you using in video, i got a hays and isnt as helpful with location of fuel pump power source like your manual! Feel yours is better and would like to get! Thanks for the video!
It's a Toyota factory service manual. You can usually find them for sale used on Ebay. Just do a search for your year. Haynes manuals are garbage compared to factory ones.
Great, super informative video as always! I looked for an access panel before but I couldn't find it since I didn't pull the carpet back far enough! Now I know, awesome!
We're glad you like the video. When I was researching this job, I had my hand crammed between the body and gas tank trying to feel for the electrical connection to the fuel pump. It wasn't until I found a TH-cam video that showed where the access panel was that I finally understood what the Factory Service Manual was trying to show in that picture.
Just completed this repair. Thanks so much for the video. Question around leak: how does the leak look? Visible dripping or is it very slight? I initially had visible dripping, which I think was due to cross-threading...I took care of that, and now there is no visible dripping...am I good to go, or is there any other way to test?
You're very welcome. The leak can be slight. You have to look at the connection and see if fuel starts to seep out and make the connection wet. It will eventually turn into a drip making it obvious. If you don't feel any wetness and you don't see a drip forming, you're good.
Thanks for the part’s recommendation - just ordered they get here next week. Car won’t start so swapping fuel filter and spark plug wiring (easy repairs). Hopefully fixes it and can avoid taking it in
Hopefully it works.
Do you suspect the fuel pump is bad?
- Sean
@@TimmyTheToolman yeah but don’t want to drop my tank (wish it could just come out thru the back seat) so going to try this first. When it wouldn’t start it happened super randomly after running great p (had just swapped spark plugs) and it didn’t throw an error code. Engine cranks normally but won’t start.
@@ShaunRamage It sounds like it could be the fuel pump. You could disconnect one of the fuel lines and have someone crank the engine to see if fuel is ejecting out. Obviously do it in a place with no ignition sources.
@@TimmyTheToolman ooo this is a good idea. I’ll get a pan for that and when I change the fuel pump - thanks for the extra help!
Thanks for the video Timmy... just just wanted to add that doing a fuel filter change on my 2000 SR5 was kind of a nightmare. Looks super easy and straight forward but the tiny bit of corrosion on the flare nuts after 19 years made getting the filter tight almost impossible. Took the damn thing off and on 4 times leaking gas everywhere still couldn't get it to seat correctly, spewing gas from both sides of the filter. I tried a Wix brand instead of the OEM and it leaked less but i had to crank the damn flare nuts to the point of rounding off the nuts. Glad i got it changed but YEOW that sucked!
Getting the connection leak-proof can be a pain in the butt. The Toyota factory service manual does suggest putting a little motor oil on the flared tubing end to help make a better seal. We mentioned this in the video description. Going forward, always read through the video description and look for a pinned comment from us. They will both offer further helpful information we didn't include in the video.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks man...ooo i put the oil on there buddy didn't seem to help. The Wix filter even kept leaking a very tiny amount but it stopped after about 24 hours. Man i was stressing but its all good now. Really enjoy all your videos. I've had my 3rd gen for 7 years and hope to keep her running strong for a long time with help from your channel. SICKMODS!
@@zh3717 Roger that. I also forgot to mention in the video that I've seen little strands of metal on the end of the flared tubing like a little sliver of the tubing broke free. I think this little loose strand can cause issues with the connection. I've seen it on 3 fuel filter replacements I've done.
Good to hear you're finding our videos helpful. Sicmods Brah!
Is there a fuse that can be unplugged instead of going straight to the fuel pump plug to cut power?
No, there is no fuse that just isolates power to the fuel pump. If you don't want to bother lifting the seat to access the fuel assembly plug, you can try just removing the gas cap and letting the rig sit for a while. People have reported this does a good job of depressurizing the lines.
thank you for your time you explained it very well so under the rug is the fuel pump ?? its not in the gas tank ??
Under the rug is the access hatch through the body so you can disconnect the electrical plug to the fuel pump. The fuel pump is inside the fuel tank. If you're interested about this subject, this video will provide you with a lot more info of how all the parts come together. th-cam.com/video/GrzX_K-jcuo/w-d-xo.html
Timmy you are the best !!!!! thank you very much. God bless you more.
You're very welcome. Thanks for the kind words. Happy Wrenching!
Mr Timmy I have a Toyota Hilux Surf 1999 model its a 2.7 ltr petrol (RZN 185) I was unable to find the fuel filter underneath the left side under the shield. Im guessing its inside the fuel tank. Can you please shed some light on the location.
The 2.7 liter engine has the fuel filter in a different location and it's supposedly hard to get to. We haven't done this job on a 4runner with this engine. If I get a chance, I'll look it up in my manual but I'm pretty busy right now with a couple big jobs we are going to be filming. If I forget to get back to you, message us again about it.
Hey Timmy, just did this fix with no issues. But I started the motor again now the inlet side is a constant drip. Got it as tight as I could also. Think bad flare nut?
Hey Adam, disconnect the side that is leaking and take a good luck at the flared end of the tubing. Sometimes a sliver of metal tears off and it might be causing it to not seat correctly. In addition, take some motor oil and lubricate the flared end on the tubing. You're not putting in on the threads of the fitting, just on the flared tubing. The motor oil helps make a leak proof seal. Finally, those connections need to be very tight, the difference between a leak and no leak might be a small fraction of a turn, like 1/32 or 1/64. Let me know how it goes.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you! Going to be going out in a bit and looking at it all. I actually checked out the line going to it from a parts truck and it slowed, but sadly still there. Thanks for the tips
@@roweboater90 Try the motor oil on the flared tubing end. I bet that stops the leak. Let me know if it does.
It still has a very very very slow leak sadly. Thinking that I may have somehow messed up the threads on the filter itself.
@@roweboater90 Bummer.
Awesome video! Very clear explanations and great video quality, I'm definitely subscribing. Thanks Timmy!
Glad you like the video Colby and thanks for subscribing. Happy wrenching.
many moons ago I replaced the fuel filter on a ford van, my buddy who was helping me got sprayed in the face with gasoline because we didn't relieve the fuel pressure. Ive done it twice on my ford truck and you better believe I relieved the pressure both times.
When I replaced the fuel filter on my 4runner, I didn't own a factory service manual and just followed a write-up I found on a Toyota forum. The write-up said to take the gas cap off to relieve pressure but I think this person was just guessing it would relieve pressure on the fuel lines. When you really think about it though, just taking the gas cap off is going to do nothing to relieve pressure on the fuel line between the gas tank and the fuel filter and it's also going to do nothing to relieve pressure in the line between the fuel filter and the engine. Taking the pressure off the lines not only reduces your chances of getting sprayed in the face with gasoline but it makes it easier to break free those flare nut fittings. Connections under pressure are always much harder to break free.
I like to DIY repairing my 1993 Toyota Mighty-X. Can you suggest detail manual to service my truck? I saw in this vdo, you have a nice service manual for that car.
Do a search on Ebay. That's where I found my factory service manuals.
This is awesome. Plan on changing mine soon. Thanks.
Thanks. Good luck with the job.
Timmy, can I relocate the 1985 4runner fuel filter to a easier to reach location, under the vehicle?
Not sure. I have never tried it.
On other cars that I have worked on, the fuel pump primes when you put the key in prior to starting the car. I do that a few times to get the filter full of fuel before I start the motor. Cranks up immediately. Not sure if the pump primes on these the same way.
I think it might be the same with these rigs. Thanks for sharing your technique.
Hi Tim, looks like I have to replace the fuel line from filter to engine as well as fuel filter on my 2002 Tacoma 3.4 . Any tips for removing those fuel line line clamps? I think there are 3 or 4 of them I have to remove to hold and reroute the new fuel line. Thanks
I've never replaced one of the fuel lines. Don't know what clamps you're referring to.
@@TimmyTheToolman they are actually guide clips that the fuel lines run in. Looks like 4 lines in a plastic guide clip
@@josephagosta7554 I assume they would just pull out with some persuasion.
Hello love your videos! I have a 4runner 2002 and when I have my gas tank at half and I go to fill it. It'll keep shutting off the gas pump. But if I go to the gas station with a almost complete empty tank with the gas light on. Then the pump will fill up just fine what do you think it is?
Hey Sam, glad you're enjoying our videos. Your problem sounds like it might be related to the evap canister. It's not venting properly when you fill your tank. It could also be an issue with the vent tube that connects to the filler nozzle but that seems much less likely because it would only be an issue if the hose was somehow able to get kinked. I would look up information about troubleshooting venting issues with the evap canister. Your evap canister is under the rig in front of the spare tire. Remove the spare tire to have an easier time getting in there.
@@TimmyTheToolman okay 👍 thank you so much for your reply and will do.
Oh and one last thing sorry I forgot to also mention. , I've changed my spark plugs and wires and has well cleaned the throttle body on my 2002 4runner limited about 2 months ago And I completed all the drivecycle that I had such has the o2 sensor and evap has well other things . But the only one thing that won't go away still is the catalytic converter incomplete whys that? Or anything i can do and there’s no codes and live data looks right. Pretty sure just the incomplete cycle.
@@samabdelhadi3037 When you figure out what the issue was, please report back and let me know so I can learn from your experience.
@@samabdelhadi3037 I have heard those drive cycles are very specific and hard to complete. I've never tried one but that's what I have heard. It might be something you have to do in the middle of the night with very few cars on the road and you can get on some lonely highway and get it done.
Would that be the same for the FJ cruiser the process I'm talking about
Don't know. Never replaced the fuel filter on an FJ Cruiser. I have a buddy that owns one so maybe I'll find out one day and make a video on it.
@@TimmyTheToolman I'll let you know...
@@carni1233 Ok, good luck.
@@TimmyTheToolman all I can do is try
do you know what is the size matrix (thread) for the bolt from gas line to fuel filter? i loose mine.
Do you mean the size of the gas line fitting? I don't know what bolt you're talking about.
Hi, The fuel filter I bought came with 2 metal washers. I didn't see them mentioned in your video, I assume they are for the new filter during installation?
They might be for the bracket that holds the filter but they are not for the fuel line connections to the fuel filter. I honestly don't remember washers but I haven't reviewed this video for a long time either.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks Timmy you saved me a lot of time and aggravation.
@@blainelogan9822 You're welcome Blaine. Sean and I are here to help.
Hey I know this video is old. I'm trying to find out at what interval I should change the fuel filter? I apologize if you said it in the video maybe I missed it. How many miles should it be changed?
Well, Toyota pretty much considers this a lifetime part. My opinion? I think every 100,000 miles would be smart.
@@TimmyTheToolman you're the best! Thank you for replying I love your videos!
@@bradleypalmer4286 You're very welcome Brad. Thanks for being a fan of our channel.
Timmy, i have a 2000 toyota tundra with a 4.7L engine. My fuel filter is very similar to this one and it would be easy to change if it wasn't so hard to prevent it from leaking. The pressure i have to apply could strip the threads on the fitting. Is it ok to use that yellow nylon tape made for gasoline on these filters? I've wondered why this is never mentioned. I also wonder how hard it is to fix if i did strip the threads on the fitting. Thanks!
You DO NOT want to use teflon tape. This isn't a home gas fitting that would take tape like that. This is a different type of connection like a brake line connection or a power steering hose connection. None of them use teflon tape or any type of thread sealant. Now, have people gotten away with it? Yes, but I would never recommend it. Try this, disconnect the lines and add a little motor oil to the flared tubing ends. You're not lubricating the fitting threads, just the flared end of the tubing. Now reassemble it. The oil helps make a leak-free seal of the flared tubing end with the filter. if you're not using a flare nut wrench, you should be. Using a regular box end wrench is risky because it does require significant tightness to keep these connections from leaking. The difference between leaking and not leaking can be a tiny amount, like 1/64 of a turn. Good luck!
Another great video... thank you... I noticed that you have a roof rack on your 4Runner that's parked in your garage. Can I ask what brand that is? I have a 2000 myself and can't find one that I like... also I'm getting a lot of outside smells when running my A/C. Any recommendations. Thanks again...
That was Sean's truck in the garage and his rack is made by Gobi.
Are you running the AC with fresh air coming in or are you recirculating the cabin air?
Just a question ?
Can you just disconnect the battery ?
No, because then how would you start the vehicle to de-pressurize the fuel lines with the battery disconnected? If you're looking for an easier way, taking off the fuel cap and waiting a while does seem to work pretty well to take de=pressurize the lines. I didn't think it would work that well when I shot the video, but I've learned after the fact that it does work pretty good.
@@TimmyTheToolman
No I had a fuel leak about
1/2 Cup just idling
So disconnected the battery so all fuel would n’t leak out overnight
Then next day connected battery & drove 2 block then repeat the process
No more then a small stain
3”x3” spot
Can you show fuel filter replacement on a tacoma 2005 v6 ? Thanks.
I currently don't know anyone with a 2nd Gen Tacoma. I imagine we might do it one day, but no plans for the near future.
All I can see in repair manuals is the strain / filter in the gas tank. Thank you for the reply Tim.
Have you looked along the driver side frame rail? Maybe Toyota decided to keep it in the same spot as the 1st Gens.
Will you talk about which years of the third gen 4runners are the best to purchase? Thank you in advance
This is a really subjective topic and my opinion is just one opinion. If you go on T4R.org there's info threads that cover all the differences between the model years and you can make your own informed decision.
Thank you for the info, love your videos. Cheers!
You're very welcome.
A question is the 2006 Toyota 4 runner v8 the same procedure
I'm not sure. We've never replaced the fuel filter on a 4th Gen 4runner.
Always great videos, while the car is on couldn’t you pull the fuel pump fuse and that will relive the fuel line pressure as well?
This video reminded me that I got to change my 3rd gen fuel filter ASAP..
Hey Joel, glad you like the video. The reason why the FSM recommends disconnecting the power at the fuel pump is because there is no fuel pump fuse. There's an EFI relay but that will just shut down power to the injectors. But, it seems taking off the gas cap and releasing pressure in the tank does a lot to reduce the pressure in the lines. So, if you don't feel like disconnecting the power to the fuel pump and then running the engine briefly, try just taking off the gas cap and letting the vehicle sit for a while before trying to break the connections free at the fuel filter. Make sure you remember the trick of putting a little engine oil on the flared ends of the tubing before reconnecting the lines to the new filter. It does help make a leak-free connection. Happy Wrenching!
Hey Tim. My 99 4runner sports fuel gauge isn't working right. Will this help? Or what can I do?
Replacing the filter won't help. You most likely have an issue either with the fuel sending unit or a circuit board. We have a video for dropping the tank, testing the fuel sending unit and replacing it. In the video description is a link to a TSB that covers the circuit board issue. th-cam.com/video/GrzX_K-jcuo/w-d-xo.html
The lesson is: still use protective eye wear even tho the fuel system is technically depressurized.
id argue to even use ear plugs. Guy next door got gas sprayed into his ear. Excruciating burning/pain for hours in the ER. Not sure of the aftermath.
Hey Tim, the input and output fuel lines on my 03 Tacoma are extremely rust welded onto the fuel filter. Truck's around 205k miles. I sprayed penetrating fluid several times a day for a week, plus tapped the fittings with a hammer and when I used a flare nut wrench to loosen it began to round off the nut on the fuel line. Obviously I shouldn't hit the nut with a torch but would my next best option be to use a heat gun? Or am I likely going to have to replace the fuel lines to replace this filter?
The heat gun route might work but I'm guessing you might have to replace the fuel lines if you really want to continue with trying to replace the filter. Maybe the smart move is to just leave it be as long as the engine is running ok.
Got an aftermarket fuel filter from advanced unmarked which direction t gas flow is , seems to be opposite of the factory Toyota one but then each model seems to have the fuel filter pointed in a different direction, I’m not sure how to tell which Direction filter goes in not knowing if the guy before me changed it out the right way any help would be great
My advice is to return the aftermarket filter and get an OEM filter and then your problem will be solved. I know it's more money but it's the best advice I can give you. Good luck.
Very detailed very thorough 🫱🏽🫲🏾
Thanks for the compliment.
Could you remove the fuse for the fuel pump instead of going all the way to the fuel pump to disconnect power?
Read the comment I pinned (1st comment you see). It covers your question. Lots of people have asked the same question.
Gotcha, thank you.
@@hokie9910 No problem.
Timmy, I messed up the flare nut on the fuel line coming from the gas tank when I change the fuel filter 10 yrs ago on my 97 4runner. I Google the fuel line and I can't find a store that sell fuel line repair kit. Can you recommend a website where I can buy the repair kit. Thanks and I watched this video and I am learning the right way to do it.
Maybe you could visit a wrecking yard local to you and pull that fuel line off a wrecked 3rd Gen 4runner. I don't know of a "Repair Kit". With the nut stripped, you would have to cut the line to get the nut off and now even if you had a tube flaring tool and new nut, the fuel line would be too short. You could also visit your local Toyota dealer and see what they would charge for that line.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks I will check out wrecking yard.
Could you do a video on how to correct the issue of the gas gauge not reading correctly? I’m getting maybe on a good day 180 miles per tank but when it’s on empty it only takes around 10 gallons. They do have 18-19 gallon tanks correct? Thanks Clint
Hey Clint, my gas gauge is off too. When I'm on empty, it only takes 14 gallons. Our gas tanks hold 18 gallons. I haven't researched yet what the possible fixes are but it would make a good video.
Timmy The Toolman ah ok. Well I will definitely be looking forward to it. It's one of my pet peeves with mine. But I love your channel! Keep it up!! Just wish mine looked like your alls underneath. It's from NYC so it's pretty rusty!
Yeah, the areas of the country where they salt the roads is brutal on vehicles. It would be great if there was another option other than salt to combat icy conditions that wouldn't destroy vehicles.
My gauge reads the same also. If consistent for many vehicles, it may be intentional, not broken..or just a design mistake that wasnt caught.
twwtb It wasn't intentional by Toyota. These fuel tank gauges are known to be become inaccurate over time. They didn't start out being this far off. It doesn't bother me enough to drop the tank and replace the gauge sending unit, because the way I look at it, it's giving us an extra buffer so we don't stupidly run out of gas. But, because Sean and I are in the video making business, we probably will do it at some point.