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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ส.ค. 2018
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In this short photography tutorial, we show you how you can improve your timelapses by taking long shutter exposures and exporting them in Adobe Premiere. By using a Polar Pro 10 stop neutral density filter, Patrick Hall increases his shutter from 1/3rd of a second to 2 full seconds when shooting in bright sunlight.
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Although I was just mildly curious, and don't have the gear, I was captivated by the truly professional presentation by Patrick Hall.. Even though I don't have the exact camera or software, I was able to follow along and understand the concept as he showed and explained it in a thoroughly professional manner. He spoke clear English with ease and clear command of the subject. I really enjoyed this video. I learned things. Five stars.
Don't bother dragging+dropping a large array of files. Just do a File > Import, and select the first frame of the sequence. Make sure the 'Image Sequence' box is checked at the bottom, and you are good to go --It's a single asset.
this.
That.
but can you change the "1 image per frame" setting with that technique?
@@evanoshea9506 yes
Yes that's easy than this
And i think premiere pro now only has 2 frames as the lowest
So many little tips and tricks throughout the video. Great job!
Been working as a professional photographer for 20 years, this video proves that one can NEVER stop learning. Thanks for the video. Exicted to try this next week!
Joking? After 20 years you didn´t know you can exposure longer when using a ND filter? Or what excatly do you mean?
Thanks for taking the time to make this. A lot of great information here.
To save yourself a little trouble, you can import the entire set of timelapse images into Premiere as one single clip by going to: File > Import. Choose the first image in the sequence. Make sure the "Image Sequence" box is checked and then click Open. Now you won't have to copy and paste attributes to each frame and then nest them as they're already one clip. You can also go into Preferences > Media beforehand and set the Indeterminate Media Timebase to 23.976fps or whatever you like so it will automatically set the clip to that framerate on import. *Note that for this to work, all of the image files must be named sequentially.
Great tutorial guys! Thanks!!
If you shoot high res images that are more than 1080 or 4k, you will have to resize the footage anyways. Also, since your photos will probably be 2:3 or 4:5 aspect ratio, and video is 16:9, you are going to have to tweak the final timelapse to fit into your sequence anyways. The import option is def a way to do it but I've just always copied and pasted the jpegs so that I can easily fix any errors and see each individual frame easier.
Right, you will have to resize, but you can do it to the whole clip at once instead of copying and pasting the attribute to many and then nesting. Also, this way, if you decide to tweak the size again, you haven't lost the edges due to nesting.
I agree. Using the import as sequence is much easier. I think you are better off editing images in Lightroom/LRTimelapse first to fix any flicker.
@@FStoppers yes because you are not doing it the most optimal way
Or shoot with LUMIX cameras which do it all onboard, giving brilliant 4K anywhere, ready to download.
You guys alwys put such an amazing amount of work into your videos. Really great stuff.
Thanks bro for your complete tutorial!
Great tips! Thanks so much for sharing!
this was so informational... absolutely love it!!! Thank you!!!
Best behind the scene out there yet. 9/10👌🏾
You can use LR Timelapse for post production. This helps to fix the flickering and uses raw files. All in all in helps you to create better timelapses.
Yes definitely but it does require a lot more steps and requires you shoot in raw. Sometimes when we travel for weeks at a time and shoot dozens of timelapses, we don't have the server space to store 10,000+ raw files for timelapses. If you can remove the flicker at the time of capture, you shouldn't need to shoot raw for most of your timelapses but LR Timelapse is great for when you do need smoothing.
Thanks for the tips!
Great video, thanks for the helpful tips!
What a amazing video.. thank you so much for talking through this.. I just learnt so much!
I learned a lot from your video. Thank you. Most appreciated.
Loved the explanation and I learned something new today about the flickering issue.
Timelapses were such a struggle for me. I definitely needed this. Thank you for reading my mind :)
Hello to my steadicam master 😊😊😊
You are my Idol when it comes to using Steadicam. Thank you for all the teachings in TH-cam 😊
one of the best practical videos. thank you
I found this easy to watch and very helpful thank you
this was a wonderful video, thank you for making it ; much success to you
Its nice that the "how-to" videos are back!
Really good video, thank you. I'll be doing this from now on.
If you shoot raw, bring your sequence into an album in Lightroom, apply your edits, and then export the sequence and render the video in premiere or ae. I like working with the full frame edits first and then downscaling. Haven’t done it in a while and need to revisit the workflow. LR timelapse is also a gnarly Lr plug-in you can use to apply key framing to high res time lapses across a series of images in Lr. These produce very nice applications for light changes over time (think applying an exposure gradient to a sunrise scene)
that's the best software!
Some v. useful information thanks!
Very informative.. Excellent work 👏
I was about to say that thumbnail shot looked amazing and glad to have seen it at the end.
Thank you very much for what you .ve done ....absolutely brilliant
Have to shoot time lapse for work this weekend. Great info.
I import the jpegs as a sequence in another way, which I consider simpler: Just use Command+I, look for the folder where you have your files, click on the first image, then check the box on the left low corner of hat dialog box, and just "Import as a sequence". Voila! All your jpegs are imported as a sequence. Thanks for this video, I have learned a few things that were new to me!
Great stuff, thank you Im new in photography and I think I learn a lot from your video.
These tutorials are so helpful! I just uploaded my first ever timelapse video (about the city of Bern in Switzerland) and without the help from these tutorials i could not have done it. Thanks!
Excellent tutorial!
Excellent tips, thanks very much, I wish I lived in such amazing looking places
Ha!!! Now that's awesome! Never thought about making timelapses with a 2s exposure!! Looks so cool! Can't wait to test that!
Excellent informative & entertaining Video. Thumbs up & I Subscribed.!
thank you for the effort and the sharing. thumbs up.
Thanks, have been looking for exactly this. Learned more than with the previous 10 videos ;)
Very informative, thanks for sharing
guys , you are the best on youtube and probably in the whole universe!!!!
Thanks for the tips :)
Thank you for this!
beautiful work ❤️ learnt something interesting
Love it，learn more about timelapse
Good information and very useful for either video or photo.
We love how to's! Excellent content!
thanks for the video ... helpful tips to get higher quality outputs.
Good info - glad I have a career history in tech - nice to combine all the tech with the latest & greatest camera's today
this was an incredible tutorial
Nice content very in depth. Thanks hope i can apply it as well. Great job 😃
Lumix Cameras do this so well and easily in video with low shutter speeds as well as photo mode.
This is a superb tutorial.
Thanks, very helpfulll!
nice tutorial!
Good tutorial. Thanx.
Thanks Fstoppers
I grew up in Charleston. Miss that town but not the traffic! Great video...
Thank you for this.
exellent explanation !!!
I've been to that area many times. It's neat to be able to recognize where you're shooting.
Where is it? Charleston maybe?
Very cool. I didn't know about the aperture causing the flicker. I do lots of timelapses with an 8mm manual aperture lens, so I've never noticed this.
I've learned so much from fstoppers, I feel I have to give something back: LRTimelapse->Lightroom->After Effects. That is the optimal path. Not the fastest though, that's why you use jpegs, I suppose. And the f22 thing...I'd advice to avoid such extremes because of sensor dust and diffraction. Diffraction can be ignored because the final product is video, but sensor dust sometimes cannot be masked out in post. Another advantage using After Effects or any similar editor is that you can mask the jarring sea waves that annoy us and add extra motion blur to soften them without messing with the sky. That's my experience after 4 years and around 500 timelapses for various short and long film productions.
So cool!
oh really hepfull.... like everything about tym laps in single video
really helpful thanks :)
awesome tutorial
Awesome video thanks
I shoot timelapse astrophotography and I use Qdslr and LRTimelapse, Yeah the pro license for LRT is around $300 bucks but I do post through Lightroom and LRT, you have WAY more control over your images. The graphic interface in LRT is really easy and brilliant. I've processed 6000+ RAW files for double Holy Grails this way. Yes you need a really fast machine and lots of storage to play in this league but the results are uncompromising and smooth.
thank you bro ☺️
Awesome! Thank you so much :-D
That tip on the aperture makes sense. I wonder if the new Z series cameras pre compose TL at 4K? Another technique is to shoot RAW and import to Lightroom and tweak before spitting out JPGs. But thanks, this is great.
I don't know about Nikon, but with Canon you can choose your aperture then press and hold the DOF button and twist the lens from the contacts to lock in the aperture. This is the method I use for all my time lapses & AF system lenses to cut down on the aperture flicker..
Confirmed, also if your cannon dslr don`t have built in intervalometer google for Magic Lantern, must have thing
Our Canon shooters in the office confirm this too but is this an actual feature or is it more or less a hack that locks the aperture?
Hack. aka :Lens twist hack. Also, don't twist to much. Just enough so the contact are no aligned." I don't want anyone to twist to much and drop there lens"
Exactly. ML is a must have for all Canon shooters
ML stopped development for the 5Dm3 at firmware 1.2.3, it isn't very useful to those who updated to the most recent (1.3.5)
Hi great video!! Is the zoom effect done on post? Or in the camera? Thank you!!
Thank you so much, kind sir.
Converging lines is NOT caused by using a wide angle lens. It is caused by having the film plane at an angle from vertical.
Great video .... but how are you able to obtain the great blur of ur gonna do a day yo night or night to day , with the 10 stop Nd?
5:10 You can stop the camera changing the appeture by disengaging the lens slightly so the camera no longer controls the lens.
Nikon D-850 Wow! Superb camera
REALLY AWESOME
"I'm going to go ahead and put my camera into intervalometer mode"
*cries in a7riii*
Jake Clark you can get an app
@@ginbarker2062 They removed the app for a7iii
@@liam4184 I use open memories tweak, it has every feature this guy just said .
Wait for the new firmware in March :)
Gin Barker der
Great video....love the fade from magic hour to black. If you shot at 30/frames/sec would it look better? And knowing after effects...you can also add motion blur after the fact to a sequence to get the streaking effect.
Very nice video BUT to ease your workflow here is a little tips : Instead of importing the way you've done it, just go to import, search for your pictures and then tick the "import as sequence" in the explorer. I've found out that it's much powerful, the playback is way better and seems that the computer likes it better this way ! :)
Thanks Patrick
That last time lapse was sweet. I gotta get back out at night again
Thank you so much for this video! It helped me a lot, I was wondering what that weird flicker was in my time lapse videos because I was shooting at f10+ for scenery. Cheers! :)
Thank you very much
Thanks mate
Thanks useful.BTW just add a "moving time lapse" capable gimbal like the crane plus and it is also rotating or "moving"! Look cool.
This is great, thank you! Also, amazed at the audio quality. What lav mic were you using?
Sennheiser G3 -P
That's why you always ramp the speed % down during editing the final video file. 70% is a good place to start. I've gone down to 60% with great results on hyperlapses.
Audio is pretty pretty good... What wireless microphone do you use? Also, what did you use to video this... tutorial video? thanks dude.
If you hold CTRL and click and drag you can change the scale values in premiere more smooth to get the perfect value that you want.
GREAT JOB my friend ! YOUR TH-cam CHANNEL IS GREAT !!! JUST KEEP GOING !!
kader ,from Optical Power youtube channel ... Las Vegas
The flicker was a great tip! Looking forward to making more timelapses!
Cool video! I would also suggest sandbagging the tripod, which I know is kind of 'old school.'
One thing I'm wondering, what camera did you use to film yourself in this video? It's crisp!!
Thank you.
Hey Patrick, what tripod was that, that you put your camera on? It looked sturdier than any of the five tripods that I have. Yet it looks kind of light.
Cheers, having a long exposure to make a timelapse better didn't occur to me
Interesting... any way to do this or close to it on iPhone XS with filmic pro app?