I wish I knew this before trying to joint an edge of cedar 8 feet. Even after watching other videos i finally found why I was bowing on the edge. Well lesson learned the hard way.
Thanks for this Colin. As a beginner woodworker, I just picked up a jointer. These tips are going to be very useful for me. Vids like this are the reasons I love your content. Please keep these coming.
Thanks! I've had my powermatic 8 inch jointer for many years, but have moved twice in the last few. Working on a loft bed at moment. I'll certainly try your advice.
Thank you, Colin. A lot of good tips in here. Getting good results on my jointer has always been a problem. Maybe now I will get better results. I now have to find your video on setting the blades to be slightly higher than the outfeed table.
This is very helpful in understanding what to do and not to do... one day I will get a jointer, but I still want to know about this subject. This is one of those videos that ended too soon; it could have gone on easily 20 minutes longer and I would have watched every bit of it. Great job Colin! Always happy to watch whenever you post your videos!
I have also found that if you dress lumber or even glue up a blank that has I little higher moisture content, simply lay them on a flat surface and put small sticks underneath them. This will let air flow all around it so the moisture will disperse evenly. I used to work for a custom cabinet shop and we glued up a tabletop from reclaimed lumber one morning. We took it out of the clamps later that evening and left it lying flat on the table. The next morning it had cupped and bowed because air couldn't get to the bottom side of the tabletop; thus all the moisture dispersed from the topside and caused it to cup
Thank you! That is probably the best video I've seen regarding jointer tips and trust me I've watched a ton. I can never joint my wood well and I have spent days, and I mean days trying to adjust my machine. It's to the point that I no longer use it and the mere sight of it makes me shudder. These are very useful so I think I'll take another stab at it! I was getting front to back tapering and I think it may be because I wasn't shifting my downward pressure to the outfeed table. The only other issue I was hoping you would have touched on was why would you get tapering from side to side after multiple passes.
👍. Good tips. Is there a relationship between bed length and board length? From your point about bowed boards, it would seem like bed length would not matter.
Fantastic tips, Colin! Thanks a lot! 😃 My doubt is about the % of humidity here in my region in Brazil... Today it's at 91%, for example. 😬 Well... I guess I'm going to have to ask around here to discover. 😂 Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
4 ปีที่แล้ว +1
The % is not that important. It's important how it changes over time. Indoors it's one percent, outdoors it's a completely different scenario when you have 4 distinct seasons...
My owners manual says the knives should be level with the outfeed table. That seems to make more sense to me. Why should the knives be slightly higher?
To ensure that the leading end of the wood doesn't hang up on the end of he outfeed table. If it does hang up, you'll have to lif the leading end of your wood to jump over the outfeed table. That will cause a "snipe" in your wood at the point where you lifted the wood above the cutting blades. We're only talking about a few 1,000ths of an inch.
Im trying to joint edge some redwood a couple inches past 4 feet. I cannot get a good straight edge for a table top glue up. It has a gap between the boards and it has been driving me crazy! Its a 6" benchtop grizzly jointer
I have a hard time getting my fence absolutely square... It's a combo which looks very similar to yours, but what happens is; every time I have the fence square, when I tighten the fastener on the back, it pulls it back. I tried setting it up, hanging over a bit so it will be square when I tighten it, but it keeps pulling it back too much... So it's pretty useless ow, but maybe I'm doing something wrong
My jointer has an adjustable outfeed table. My question (if anyone can help) is can't I seat the knives so they are level with each other, then adjust the outfeed table to them?
Doesn't matter the length of the board. Place the convex side of the bow downward and carefully establish a flat in the middle of the board. From there is smooth sailing.
Hi and sorry to bother you sir but I have 8ft lengths of wood 38mm x 89mm 2400mm which are bowed twisted the othe wood I have is redwood 69mm x 69mm which is same bowed twisted bent ect at least one of each has everything wrong with it. What would be best way to save some of it it’s for a workbench hopefully you can or give advice. Many thanks steve 👨🏼🦽
hey Colin thanks, great advice. Where in Canada are you? I am on Vancouver Island (I think you are too) what moisture do you generally use for this area? I can't seem to get my wood below about 13-14% Even if I get it kiln dried once it is out it then absorbs more moisture and ends up back around 10-12% at the lowest.
Hi Colin I have a planer thicknesser here in the UK identical to the one you’re using, but yours appears to have a spiral cutter block. This machine is marketed by different companies: may I ask the name of yours, and can it be upgraded with a spiral block? Mine has just two standard blades. Thank you
Hello. Just bought my self a jointer. I swore that I´ll never buy a cheap one... Just did... And yes. The fence mechanism is made of aluminum and it is not square. No matter how I adjust it, it is off by 1-3 degrees when I tighten it. This is the problem with cheap tools. And as you said, even a square isn´t necessary square! I mean what is the point of making such a thing? I had a cheap miter saw, which had a groove where it clicked when it was at 90degrees and 45 degrees. Only those grooves weren´t exactly 90 or 45 but slighly off, so only function why I bought the darn thing didn´t work. Is it really impossible to make a working and cheap tool? Just working good tool.
A planer will not get the face flat. It will just push down in the point of contact. So if there is a bow in the wood, the bow will remain, because the front and the back aren’t kept flat.
Sorry, but it does not make sense to me how it is different if the cutter is level with outfeed or is slightly above it. The cutter being above the outfeed is conceptually equivalent to the infeed being that much lower than the cutter. So, in essence, the only difference between cutter being level with outfeed or being above it is how much lower you will need to set your infeed.
You are not right about the long boards. First of all you need to have an bed extensions to joint a long boards. Second of all even if you turn around the board like you have shown but use it on a infeed table, which is too short, you will still end up with board which is not flat as it will lift up itself when pushed through the infeed table - because of the bowed shape without support at the end it will be hanging out of the table.
That drawing you did on the end of the wood was misleading. On the bottom center there will be almost no wood removed (it would remove a lot at the bottom edges). The top center would remove a lot of wood (as you said, it would take off the hump). But you made it look like it would take off a lot of wood in the center on both the top and the bottom. That is wrong. The center would only take off a lot of wood on the top. In fact, for a cupped board if you want to know how much the thickness will be removed after jointing and planing, a good estimate it provided by measuring the depth of the cup on ONE SIDE ONLY.
The depth measurement on the one side just gets rid of that cup. You would still have the "convex" on the top side of the board to plane off to get it flat resulting in a lot of wasted wood.
@@dwightl5863 No, you are confused in the same way as Colin. Read my previous comment again. At the CENTER of the cup, wood is only removed one ONE SIDE of the board. At the edges of the board, wood is only removed on ONE SIDE of the board (opposite side from the wood removed in the center). Net result is that the thickness of the board after jointing and planing is only reduced by the amount of the cup on ONE SIDE of the board at the center, or equivalently, by the amount at the edges.
![กี่หมื่นฟ้า | Your Sky Series EP.1 [1/4]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vLGjxFL6U_I/mqdefault.jpg)
![กี่หมื่นฟ้า | Your Sky Series EP.1 [2/4]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/qJbQs_nhjD4/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you VERY VERY much for sharing your knowledge in an honest and VERY interesting way. These are REALLY important matters. Once again THANK YOU.
Best video I've seen on using the jointer.
I wish I knew this before trying to joint an edge of cedar 8 feet. Even after watching other videos i finally found why I was bowing on the edge. Well lesson learned the hard way.
Finally I understand, thank you very much Colin.
hello..I made a safety guide after watching your video. Thank you for being an inspiration to me.
Thanks for this Colin. As a beginner woodworker, I just picked up a jointer. These tips are going to be very useful for me. Vids like this are the reasons I love your content. Please keep these coming.
You are a very good teacher.
This is one of the best videos on use of a jointer. Thank you.
Great tips, I am almost ready to start jointing some wood... I just need there jointer now 😁
i know I am kinda randomly asking but does anyone know a good site to watch newly released tv shows online?
Great demo & information Colin! Very nice seeing a condensed summary of what I already knew! Thanks & be safe.......... 👍👍😉😉
Thanks! I've had my powermatic 8 inch jointer for many years, but have moved twice in the last few. Working on a loft bed at moment. I'll certainly try your advice.
Best post ever for jointing.
Thanks!!
Thank you, Colin. A lot of good tips in here. Getting good results on my jointer has always been a problem. Maybe now I will get better results. I now have to find your video on setting the blades to be slightly higher than the outfeed table.
Thanks Colin! All of your videos are good and helpful. This one is one of your best!
Another useful video full of important information for novice woodworkers like me 🙏🏼
Very informative and clearly presented. Thank you very much.
This is very helpful in understanding what to do and not to do... one day I will get a jointer, but I still want to know about this subject. This is one of those videos that ended too soon; it could have gone on easily 20 minutes longer and I would have watched every bit of it. Great job Colin! Always happy to watch whenever you post your videos!
I have also found that if you dress lumber or even glue up a blank that has I little higher moisture content, simply lay them on a flat surface and put small sticks underneath them. This will let air flow all around it so the moisture will disperse evenly. I used to work for a custom cabinet shop and we glued up a tabletop from reclaimed lumber one morning. We took it out of the clamps later that evening and left it lying flat on the table. The next morning it had cupped and bowed because air couldn't get to the bottom side of the tabletop; thus all the moisture dispersed from the topside and caused it to cup
Thanks Colin, another thing or 2 learned! Best regards from Belgium
Thanks for the knowledge, Mr. Colin !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks very nice 👍 good information
Very interesting. Very good. Thank you.
Great video, Colin! Lots of great information. I didn’t know you got a new jointer. That one is nice and wide. 😃 Keep up the great work! 👍🏼
Thank you! That is probably the best video I've seen regarding jointer tips and trust me I've watched a ton. I can never joint my wood well and I have spent days, and I mean days trying to adjust my machine. It's to the point that I no longer use it and the mere sight of it makes me shudder. These are very useful so I think I'll take another stab at it! I was getting front to back tapering and I think it may be because I wasn't shifting my downward pressure to the outfeed table. The only other issue I was hoping you would have touched on was why would you get tapering from side to side after multiple passes.
Great information!
Good video.. Like always. Thanks for sharing this with us.
Great video Colin Jim.
Great information! Thank you!
Great tips man thanks for sharing your experience
👍. Good tips. Is there a relationship between bed length and board length? From your point about bowed boards, it would seem like bed length would not matter.
Great jointing tips, mate. 👍🏽
Cheers.
Good video Colin. I was told that you should also cut with the grain flow of the wood.
Thanks for sharing these great tips!
Very good details. Thank you
Love the various tips keep em coming
Now I know that moisture meters exist. Thanx.
Thanks for the info this old dog did learn some new tricks
Good job!
thanks very useful
Thanks for the update
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for the great tips!!
Thanks , was very helpful .
Thanks so very much for this great information! Woodwork Web Rocks!
What if you want to flatten a long piece of wood? Use a hand plane first to get it closer to flat before using a jointer?
Awesome Video and Tips!!!
Fantastic tips, Colin! Thanks a lot! 😃
My doubt is about the % of humidity here in my region in Brazil... Today it's at 91%, for example. 😬
Well... I guess I'm going to have to ask around here to discover. 😂
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
The % is not that important. It's important how it changes over time. Indoors it's one percent, outdoors it's a completely different scenario when you have 4 distinct seasons...
@ Nice, thanks! 😊
Thank's for nice information
Thanks 🍻
Thanks Colin, that was useful. Anything similar for using the thicknesser?
Legend Colin!
You are the best 🙂
My owners manual says the knives should be level with the outfeed table. That seems to make more sense to me. Why should the knives be slightly higher?
To ensure that the leading end of the wood doesn't hang up on the end of he outfeed table. If it does hang up, you'll have to lif the leading end of your wood to jump over the outfeed table. That will cause a "snipe" in your wood at the point where you lifted the wood above the cutting blades. We're only talking about a few 1,000ths of an inch.
This is what i was thinking as well but at same time ive had what dan described happen too so i can see both sides.
Never saw that on TH-cam thanks
thank you 👍👍
Very informative Colin. Projects will fail later if made with "wet" wood.
Im trying to joint edge some redwood a couple inches past 4 feet. I cannot get a good straight edge for a table top glue up. It has a gap between the boards and it has been driving me crazy! Its a 6" benchtop grizzly jointer
I have a hard time getting my fence absolutely square... It's a combo which looks very similar to yours, but what happens is; every time I have the fence square, when I tighten the fastener on the back, it pulls it back. I tried setting it up, hanging over a bit so it will be square when I tighten it, but it keeps pulling it back too much... So it's pretty useless ow, but maybe I'm doing something wrong
My jointer has an adjustable outfeed table. My question (if anyone can help) is can't I seat the knives so they are level with each other, then adjust the outfeed table to them?
Doesn't matter the length of the board. Place the convex side of the bow downward and carefully establish a flat in the middle of the board. From there is smooth sailing.
Hi and sorry to bother you sir but I have 8ft lengths of wood 38mm x 89mm 2400mm which are bowed twisted the othe wood I have is redwood 69mm x 69mm which is same bowed twisted bent ect at least one of each has everything wrong with it. What would be best way to save some of it it’s for a workbench hopefully you can or give advice.
Many thanks steve 👨🏼🦽
What brand jointer are you using in this video? Size also?
Mark Schultz Wondering the same. I’ve never seen a blade guard like that.
hey Colin thanks, great advice. Where in Canada are you? I am on Vancouver Island (I think you are too) what moisture do you generally use for this area? I can't seem to get my wood below about 13-14% Even if I get it kiln dried once it is out it then absorbs more moisture and ends up back around 10-12% at the lowest.
Hi Colin
I have a planer thicknesser here in the UK identical to the one you’re using, but yours appears to have a spiral cutter block. This machine is marketed by different companies: may I ask the name of yours, and can it be upgraded with a spiral block? Mine has just two standard blades. Thank you
Hello.
Just bought my self a jointer. I swore that I´ll never buy a cheap one... Just did... And yes. The fence mechanism is made of aluminum and it is not square. No matter how I adjust it, it is off by 1-3 degrees when I tighten it.
This is the problem with cheap tools. And as you said, even a square isn´t necessary square! I mean what is the point of making such a thing? I had a cheap miter saw, which had a groove where it clicked when it was at 90degrees and 45 degrees. Only those grooves weren´t exactly 90 or 45 but slighly off, so only function why I bought the darn thing didn´t work. Is it really impossible to make a working and cheap tool? Just working good tool.
Hmm, I thought jointers were only for edges. If I wanted to work on the faces why wouldn’t I want to use a planer.
A planer will not get the face flat. It will just push down in the point of contact. So if there is a bow in the wood, the bow will remain, because the front and the back aren’t kept flat.
Sorry, but it does not make sense to me how it is different if the cutter is level with outfeed or is slightly above it. The cutter being above the outfeed is conceptually equivalent to the infeed being that much lower than the cutter. So, in essence, the only difference between cutter being level with outfeed or being above it is how much lower you will need to set your infeed.
Just buy already planed wood and go
You are not right about the long boards. First of all you need to have an bed extensions to joint a long boards. Second of all even if you turn around the board like you have shown but use it on a infeed table, which is too short, you will still end up with board which is not flat as it will lift up itself when pushed through the infeed table - because of the bowed shape without support at the end it will be hanging out of the table.
I used extension bed to make my 80" long table top. It's worked very well with 1/64" of error!
A jointer video where he never actually uses the jointer. Hmmm.
That drawing you did on the end of the wood was misleading. On the bottom center there will be almost no wood removed (it would remove a lot at the bottom edges). The top center would remove a lot of wood (as you said, it would take off the hump). But you made it look like it would take off a lot of wood in the center on both the top and the bottom. That is wrong. The center would only take off a lot of wood on the top. In fact, for a cupped board if you want to know how much the thickness will be removed after jointing and planing, a good estimate it provided by measuring the depth of the cup on ONE SIDE ONLY.
The depth measurement on the one side just gets rid of that cup. You would still have the "convex" on the top side of the board to plane off to get it flat resulting in a lot of wasted wood.
@@dwightl5863 No, you are confused in the same way as Colin. Read my previous comment again. At the CENTER of the cup, wood is only removed one ONE SIDE of the board. At the edges of the board, wood is only removed on ONE SIDE of the board (opposite side from the wood removed in the center). Net result is that the thickness of the board after jointing and planing is only reduced by the amount of the cup on ONE SIDE of the board at the center, or equivalently, by the amount at the edges.
@@XJWill1 Ok. I get what you are saying now. Thanks for setting me straight so to speack.