I'm glad I found somebody that's willing to share their knowledge. I am getting ready to redo the bottom end of my Duramax and I am having trouble talking to people about how to do it because all they care about is making money on it and they want to do it themselves and not share any knowledge so I can learn.
😮 that's because people want your money due to lack of knowledge wrather than them having the heart to spread knowledge. To be honest your doing the best you can be learning yourself, as I'm learning clearance for a fox body rebuild to drop in my 3.8 mustang for a 5.0 swap. I'm doing a big cam, porting some bigger explorer heads and porting the intake as well along with exhaust ports, and replacing all pieces to spec. Wiring simple bc I'm using holly terminator x max wires and computer to control motor and trans. Just get the Haynes rebuild kit I used to rebuild my 3.8 mustang as your awesome and will go far my friend bc your making it happen
Or you could use the part on the end that spins free of the other spinny bit. Thats how you properly adjust to the correct measurement without putting the micrometer under tension.
Man oh man! Thank you so much again! There's people out there who charge hundreds of dollars for classes on this and you take the time out of your day to pass this on for nothing. Thanks to you, I'm doing my own cam bearings, file fitting my own rings, and now my bearing clearances. Teacher, will you show me the correct way of taking piston to valve clearance and choosing the proper head gasket to achieve the desired clearance and how to calculate compression ratio?
I absolutely love the channel and the videos, I think if you made a video going through the entire build process for an engine step by step from bare block fresh from the machine shop and breaking it up into parts would be good.
If you think about it, if you're just an engine builder, the manufacturers of the parts your using do all the work for you. All your doing is making sure all the parts go together correctly.
If you think you're scratching the crank that easy then......well idk what to tell you then, it wasn't a sharp edge, it was flat on flat and there both hardened, am I the only one thinks that was no big deal?
I like how you explained it a little better if not a lot better than some of the other ones I saw on TH-cam. It's been over 25 years since I mess with a dial bore gauge and Mic set. I usually throw the motors together with the bearings as they are without checking really. Unless I run into a problem where it's too tight. But with this performance build I'm doing with a LS3 and LSA supercharger I'm going to make sure everything's correct.
@@JacobVillemain Just tighten main bearings to spec on my first engine build I'm sure I put to much of that thick assembly lube , should I redo it and take some of the lube off those main brarings or do you think i'll be okay. I messed up by going crazy with the lube. Thank you,
Clear and precise!! Jacob you sure make it seem like you know what you are doing!! Great job!! I watched this video in its entirety.. do I get my certification for being a semi professional amateur engine builder with my rotating assembly now?? 25 years old and this engine builder sharing knowledge of 75 years worth!! Great job Jacob! Thank you! Keep it coming!
I love your videos and I love your channel. Keep the videos coming! I do want to say, when determining the diameter of the journal, you should be using the rachet at the end of the knurled gripe. This is setup to slip once the correct "tightness" is determined and the measurement can be taken. Turn the rachet until it stops, lock the spindle in place and that's the most accurate way to get your measurement.
BTW, if you need a micrometer specifically for tubing or tube type materials, they make special anvils and micrometers to make it easier when trying to find the high points. A 10th mic with gently hands works fine (.0001 accuracy and calipers will be good for .001 accuracy) Mitutoyo and Brown and sharpe are 2 of the best.
Something that misleads a lot of people. It looks good that there's a 50 millionths *resolution*, but that doesn't mean it's that accurate. My 0-1" Mitutoyo, according to the calibration sheet, reads +.00005" at 5 different measurements other than 0. Unsure on my vernier ones, .0001" resolution, but I'm sure they're anywhere in the +- .0001 throughout the measurement range. It's not much, sure, but it can be the difference between something in tolerance or out.
I've never built a engine before so I'm trying my hand at plastegua%ing a 350 crankand I notice the front main bearing didnt mash the green plastiguage can I get a new biger bearing to mash the green plastguage.for that bearing
After torqueing and measuring the rod bearings - can you re-use them or do they lose their pretension? I heard once that that the bearing lose their tensions and tend to spin when re-using
The rod bearing is typically not even close to round or flat across the face. What is the clearance that matters on the rod bearing? Middle (max) or outer (min)? And also where radially - perpendicular from parting line (narrower) or closer to parting line (wider)?
That's one way to do it, but I prefer to take multiple readings around the journals, average them, and check out of round or taper on the journal. Taking one point doesn't give you the whole picture. For a relatively loose race deal with .001" clearance per inch of journal diameter, this method works, and is better than Plastigauge. I would go further personally, and especially when going for tight clearances with thinner oils like many modern race engines.
take 1/2 the bearing put it on the crank get a sharpie and draw a line on the crank on both ends of the bearing then you have a great start every time to mic the center of the crank
Thank you for the video on this! I greatly appreciate the insight! With that being said, my dial bore gauge left some marks (they look like fresh metal marks) on the con rod bearing when checking it. Would this still be okay to still run these bearings even with the lines showing up on it? First time using a dial bore gauge to test bearing clearance and I want to make sure we don't jack up the bearings just checking them 😅 Thanks again for the vid!
I am curious about the rod bolts. When you replace the rod bolts, is it OK to do this testing then to remove the nuts/caps and reinstalling back into the cylinder?
So once you've torqued those rod bolts to spec, when you take them back apart you may need new ones as some of these bolts (BMW M20 engine )can only torqued once. How do you get around that?
Guys, please don't do that to your micrometers. Gently find the center (highest points) on the material, then gently twist until both sides make contact and you cannot close the micrometer any further. As a machinest I appreciate you recommending micrometers, but that is not how you use them and will ruin the precision by doing that.
Question: I just pulled the motor from an Audi A6 3.0 V6 . I pulled it because it sounded like Rod knock, but when I broke the motor down the only bearing that looks messed up is the front most of the four (front of the car) don't know what that particular bearing is called . I mean I know it's a main bearing, but I thought maybe they had technical names for their exact location. The bearing is seized around the crank. Could that make a rod knock sound? The sound was only under load and there were no codes and I checked everything as I broke it down and can see no other problem.
I have some telescopic bore hole gauges. Would I not be able to use it and then measure it with the Micrometer? Probably better with the bore gauge I think. Thanks so much for your wealth of knowledge. B
Telescopic gauges suck for this purpose. Get a dial bore gauge, and get one that reads .0001". May as well be using plastigage with anything less. (Don't get me wrong, a zillion engines have been put together with Plastigauge, but it isn't performance precision. I have found that the stuff reads a full thousandth tighter than actual clearance while experimenting on the same short block. ex. .002" w/ PG = .0029-.0031 with my dial bore gauge.)
That auto focus is struggling here, but great video... we are about to attempt to install new rods and pistons into a LY7 and needed to know how to measure clearance... guess I'm out to buy some tools!
Thanks for the info. Nice video. However, I think you rushed it at the point of showing how much actual clearance was determined, while looking at the bore gauge, and the needle was sweeping. Some might not have caught on that you're looking for the maximum amount of deflection in a clockwise direction from 0. Have you ever discussed the condition of main caps, and what their condition indicates? For example, I have one main cap that has surface (bearing side) ever so slightly rough (maybe spun bearing?), while another main cap, which I think was at #1, looks like it was polished, almost chrome. What are these cap surfaces telling me?
هو المطلوب اكبر قدر من الدقة في الخلوص بين الكام شفت وعمود البستم ومكان حركة عمود الكرنك فالقياسات يجب تكون لها قاعدة ثابتة في القياس يعني ارقام مسبقة للقياس انت لم تقولها ولم تعطيها
Since the micrometer is only used to "copy" the journal diameter and not to measure it, can't a quality caliper do the same ? To answer this, I would set the bore gauge as you showed and compare (several times) with the caliper (if I had the tools...) I'd love to know how (in)accurate it is...
@@whiplashmachine I've heard this a lot, but yet to see any proof. My calipers repeat just as well as my micrometers and measure dead nuts on gauge blocks.
Great video! When measuring the connecting rod bearings, are those the actual bearings that you use in the engine when assembling? Just asking because I dont want to potentially damage a new set of bearing shells. Thanks for the info, can't wait for the next video!
What clearance would you recommend for a turbo ls? Iron block running summit ls pro forged crank and rods currently have extra clearance shells on top and bottom on mains and rods. Aiming to hit 1k+ is 0.003 too loose ?
When using two different sizes of bearing shells to get your final desired clearance, which side of the con rod/cap and which side of the block/cap combo do you place the smaller in internal diameter bearing shell half? J
Okay let me stop you about your tension against the rod journal. The little knob at the very end of your caliper is your tension. When you turn that and the caliper stops moving it clicks because that's the set tension you want that caliper to have against the material. Once that clicks you move it to see if there is more tension or less tension anywhere else. Use your tools correctly and they'll save you every time.
Not really required, some people prefer them, others like to feel the actual thimble when it stops. As long as you're consistent and that translates into all your measurements you should be good.
I get it. It takes time and practice to truly understand what these tools do and how to properly use them. The video is accurate, meaning the TH-camr does not mislead the audience, but there's something very different and vastly more helpful about having someone show you how in person how to use a micrometer and bore gauge (dial, like this one, or digital). I had a friend show me in person last weekend and then I spend a week using it. It was a day or so of using the tool on my own before I truly had a feeling of confidence I was using it correctly. Amazing what sitting alone in a garage with some tools and some spare time can teach us. ...and TH-cam too!
Great vid on precision measuring! I will be using this when teaching my Auto Shop class at Boerne Champion....fwiw we have mainly Fowler tools. Dunne says HI!
I really really need to see how to trim a cam button a bearing button not the nylon. A diy technique with a bench grinder or whatever. And maybe checking the proper clearance. Please
I'm glad I found somebody that's willing to share their knowledge. I am getting ready to redo the bottom end of my Duramax and I am having trouble talking to people about how to do it because all they care about is making money on it and they want to do it themselves and not share any knowledge so I can learn.
This is way late at but how did your Duramax build go. I'm looking to do mine real soon, a little nervous, but want to tackle mine myself also
😮 that's because people want your money due to lack of knowledge wrather than them having the heart to spread knowledge. To be honest your doing the best you can be learning yourself, as I'm learning clearance for a fox body rebuild to drop in my 3.8 mustang for a 5.0 swap. I'm doing a big cam, porting some bigger explorer heads and porting the intake as well along with exhaust ports, and replacing all pieces to spec. Wiring simple bc I'm using holly terminator x max wires and computer to control motor and trans. Just get the Haynes rebuild kit I used to rebuild my 3.8 mustang as your awesome and will go far my friend bc your making it happen
your right about how hard it was to gain knowledge a few years ago i appreciate these videos
Or you could use the part on the end that spins free of the other spinny bit. Thats how you properly adjust to the correct measurement without putting the micrometer under tension.
I love these kinds of videos, and engine building videos in general. Literally all I watch.
Humble and to the point! best vid on this subject I have seen after watching many of Wich leave out detail.
Wow, thanks!
Man oh man! Thank you so much again! There's people out there who charge hundreds of dollars for classes on this and you take the time out of your day to pass this on for nothing. Thanks to you, I'm doing my own cam bearings, file fitting my own rings, and now my bearing clearances. Teacher, will you show me the correct way of taking piston to valve clearance and choosing the proper head gasket to achieve the desired clearance and how to calculate compression ratio?
I absolutely love the channel and the videos, I think if you made a video going through the entire build process for an engine step by step from bare block fresh from the machine shop and breaking it up into parts would be good.
Thank you sir, i watched a ton of you tube videos and yours was by far the best straight and to the point.
If you think about it, if you're just an engine builder, the manufacturers of the parts your using do all the work for you. All your doing is making sure all the parts go together correctly.
You'll be surprised how off alot of parts are
You remind me of myself when l was working in a machine shop 35 years ago. Great explanation.
Man when that micrometer was extra tight on that journal and it caused it to squeak it sent a shiver down my spine lol
I work for cat an do this a lot , most people have it over tight an scratch it 😬.
was about to watch this video but when i saw this I'm backing out.
If you think you're scratching the crank that easy then......well idk what to tell you then, it wasn't a sharp edge, it was flat on flat and there both hardened, am I the only one thinks that was no big deal?
not what you do, you aneak up on it, and have to have the right feel. you can change the reading by using too much force
That's the only reason I came to the comments
I like how you explained it a little better if not a lot better than some of the other ones I saw on TH-cam. It's been over 25 years since I mess with a dial bore gauge and Mic set. I usually throw the motors together with the bearings as they are without checking really. Unless I run into a problem where it's too tight. But with this performance build I'm doing with a LS3 and LSA supercharger I'm going to make sure everything's correct.
I'm a total poindexter when it comes to this stuff, so I appreciate you taking time to create these tech tips!
Absolutely love where your goin with the channel! Get stoked when i get a alert that you have posted a new video. Time to get learned 😁
Awesome! Thank you!
@@JacobVillemain Just tighten main bearings to spec on my first engine build I'm sure I put to much of that thick assembly lube , should I redo it and take some of the lube off those main brarings or do you think i'll be okay. I messed up by going crazy with the lube. Thank you,
@ haha to much never hurt!
Clear and precise!! Jacob you sure make it seem like you know what you are doing!! Great job!!
I watched this video in its entirety.. do I get my certification for being a semi professional amateur engine builder with my rotating assembly now??
25 years old and this engine builder sharing knowledge of 75 years worth!!
Great job Jacob! Thank you! Keep it coming!
I love your videos and I love your channel.
Keep the videos coming!
I do want to say, when determining the diameter of the journal, you should be using the rachet at the end of the knurled gripe. This is setup to slip once the correct "tightness" is determined and the measurement can be taken. Turn the rachet until it stops, lock the spindle in place and that's the most accurate way to get your measurement.
You are a great teacher, thanks for the video.
Appreciate your time for teaching us👍🏼
Thanks I learned something new tonight!
great show brother, your very informative and i am always learning from you thanks heaps cheers nick
Thank You for the video .. im just starting my first build so your videos are super helpful
I'm now a TH-cam certified mechanic, Thanks TH-cam University 😂👍
BTW, if you need a micrometer specifically for tubing or tube type materials, they make special anvils and micrometers to make it easier when trying to find the high points. A 10th mic with gently hands works fine (.0001 accuracy and calipers will be good for .001 accuracy) Mitutoyo and Brown and sharpe are 2 of the best.
Something that misleads a lot of people.
It looks good that there's a 50 millionths *resolution*, but that doesn't mean it's that accurate. My 0-1" Mitutoyo, according to the calibration sheet, reads +.00005" at 5 different measurements other than 0. Unsure on my vernier ones, .0001" resolution, but I'm sure they're anywhere in the +- .0001 throughout the measurement range. It's not much, sure, but it can be the difference between something in tolerance or out.
Thank you for the vid and break down.. it does simplify things
Nice video.. plasti gauge method is relatively easy
Why did you use torque specs rather than checking the stretch with stretch gauge on rod bolts
I've never built a engine before so I'm trying my hand at plastegua%ing a 350 crankand I notice the front main bearing didnt mash the green plastiguage can I get a new biger bearing to mash the green plastguage.for that bearing
R.I.P. crank journal at 4:21 lmaooo
Jokes aside this is really good informative video, thank you👍
R.I.P journal and mic...lol.
Thanks very much, great video!
Thanks for the info and advice 👍
What’s the part number of the dial bore gauge you’re using?
Really well explained and a great video to learn from thank you for helping people like me to understand the process
Then replace all the bolts that were just stretched to yield as per torquing to spec instructions?
After torqueing and measuring the rod bearings - can you re-use them or do they lose their pretension? I heard once that that the bearing lose their tensions and tend to spin when re-using
The rod bearing is typically not even close to round or flat across the face. What is the clearance that matters on the rod bearing? Middle (max) or outer (min)? And also where radially - perpendicular from parting line (narrower) or closer to parting line (wider)?
Its an introduction video, how we suppost to know what, standard 100x bearing means?
Is measurements taken with new or used bearings? Thanks
That's one way to do it, but I prefer to take multiple readings around the journals, average them, and check out of round or taper on the journal. Taking one point doesn't give you the whole picture. For a relatively loose race deal with .001" clearance per inch of journal diameter, this method works, and is better than Plastigauge. I would go further personally, and especially when going for tight clearances with thinner oils like many modern race engines.
take 1/2 the bearing put it on the crank get a sharpie and draw a line on the crank on both ends of the bearing then you have a great start every time to mic the center of the crank
Love your stuff man! Very knowledgeable and helpful! Keep it up
Yow you make it look so simple I like it keep it up
Love Your Vids, Helps Me With Schooling Rn Big Time ! 🙏🤟 Always Something To Learn
Is it normal that horizontal clearance is bigger than vertical clearance ? (0,002 vertical, 0,004 horizontal)
Thanks
Thank you for the video on this! I greatly appreciate the insight! With that being said, my dial bore gauge left some marks (they look like fresh metal marks) on the con rod bearing when checking it. Would this still be okay to still run these bearings even with the lines showing up on it? First time using a dial bore gauge to test bearing clearance and I want to make sure we don't jack up the bearings just checking them 😅
Thanks again for the vid!
I am curious about the rod bolts. When you replace the rod bolts, is it OK to do this testing then to remove the nuts/caps and reinstalling back into the cylinder?
Great video, keep them coming mate 👍🏻🇦🇺
Do you recommend a tighter clearance for aluminum blocks vs iron?
you do great videos thanks
So once you've torqued those rod bolts to spec, when you take them back apart you may need new ones as some of these bolts (BMW M20 engine )can only torqued once. How do you get around that?
Hi, How accurate and reliable this test is ?
What type of end is in the micrometer? Ball or flat?
Flat
Guys, please don't do that to your micrometers. Gently find the center (highest points) on the material, then gently twist until both sides make contact and you cannot close the micrometer any further. As a machinest I appreciate you recommending micrometers, but that is not how you use them and will ruin the precision by doing that.
Building a 403 ls stroker iron block. What clearances do you recommend? Car will be mostly street car but I will race it on the weekends!
You’re building a stroker engine. Buy a manual….
Great video like always,,,thank you for your time & knowledge of engine building,,,much appreciate d,,,cant wait for the next vid,,,
Where can we buy these tools you have ?!
Great video and to the point.
Question: I just pulled the motor from an Audi A6 3.0 V6 . I pulled it because it sounded like Rod knock, but when I broke the motor down the only bearing that looks messed up is the front most of the four (front of the car) don't know what that particular bearing is called . I mean I know it's a main bearing, but I thought maybe they had technical names for their exact location. The bearing is seized around the crank. Could that make a rod knock sound? The sound was only under load and there were no codes and I checked everything as I broke it down and can see no other problem.
Iv bin looking to find what my clearance should be on my motor. 6.0 LS with a turbo.
I have some telescopic bore hole gauges. Would I not be able to use it and then measure it with the Micrometer?
Probably better with the bore gauge I think.
Thanks so much for your wealth of knowledge.
B
You are introducing more random error by using telescopic gauges.
Telescopic gauges suck for this purpose. Get a dial bore gauge, and get one that reads .0001". May as well be using plastigage with anything less. (Don't get me wrong, a zillion engines have been put together with Plastigauge, but it isn't performance precision. I have found that the stuff reads a full thousandth tighter than actual clearance while experimenting on the same short block. ex. .002" w/ PG = .0029-.0031 with my dial bore gauge.)
Nice video, simple and very helpful.
That auto focus is struggling here, but great video... we are about to attempt to install new rods and pistons into a LY7 and needed to know how to measure clearance... guess I'm out to buy some tools!
What oil clearance needs a high volume pump? I’m building a 408 LS and we are using.001 over bearings. I’m not sure if I need a high volume pump.
Thanks for a clear explanation.
great video.
What about Plasti gauge?
If my rod bearings is .0015 what size bearings i buy sir
Cuanto. Es. El precio. De un motor. Dodgers 5.9. Reconstruido.
Thank you for your videos. Cheers 🍻
Thanks for the info. Nice video. However, I think you rushed it at the point of showing how much actual clearance was determined, while looking at the bore gauge, and the needle was sweeping. Some might not have caught on that you're looking for the maximum amount of deflection in a clockwise direction from 0.
Have you ever discussed the condition of main caps, and what their condition indicates? For example, I have one main cap that has surface (bearing side) ever so slightly rough (maybe spun bearing?), while another main cap, which I think was at #1, looks like it was polished, almost chrome. What are these cap surfaces telling me?
هو المطلوب اكبر قدر من الدقة في الخلوص بين الكام شفت وعمود البستم ومكان حركة عمود الكرنك فالقياسات يجب تكون لها قاعدة ثابتة في القياس يعني ارقام مسبقة للقياس انت لم تقولها ولم تعطيها
What about the main bearings.
Tks alot !! great job !!
Since the micrometer is only used to "copy" the journal diameter and not to measure it, can't a quality caliper do the same ? To answer this, I would set the bore gauge as you showed and compare (several times) with the caliper (if I had the tools...)
I'd love to know how (in)accurate it is...
We use mics to measure and compare in tenths. A caliper is not for that kind of accuracy and will not repeat the way we need it to.
Micrometers for .0001 acuuracy, calipers for .001 accuracy. If you got deep pockets, they have micrometers for .00001+ accuracy in the $1000 range.
@@whiplashmachine I've heard this a lot, but yet to see any proof. My calipers repeat just as well as my micrometers and measure dead nuts on gauge blocks.
@@KISSMYACE3203 just goimg by what I've heard. I don't know much about machining🤷♂️
Great video! When measuring the connecting rod bearings, are those the actual bearings that you use in the engine when assembling? Just asking because I dont want to potentially damage a new set of bearing shells. Thanks for the info, can't wait for the next video!
Yes, I always measure the actual bearings I will be using.
Excellent content
What clearance would you recommend for a turbo ls? Iron block running summit ls pro forged crank and rods currently have extra clearance shells on top and bottom on mains and rods. Aiming to hit 1k+ is 0.003 too loose ?
3 thousandths is good and you’ll want a higher weight oil
WHAT HAPPEN IF ENGINE BUILDER RESURFACE CRANK AND HE INSTALL STANDARD BEARING AND ENGINE IS INSTALLED?????...
.
Awesome vids, brother! Is your shop near SA TX?
Yes!
What is the max vtc for the Skunk2 ultra 1 cams for a stock k20z4?
Do u have a specific assembly lube u like to use?
Clevite bearing guard
When using two different sizes of bearing shells to get your final desired clearance, which side of the con rod/cap and which side of the block/cap combo do you place the smaller in internal diameter bearing shell half?
J
It does not matter to me!
Thicker bearing on mains should be on the cap and on rods should be on the rod side. Think about the direction of force after the combustion event.
Thank you buddy
cheers mate love your videos
Okay let me stop you about your tension against the rod journal. The little knob at the very end of your caliper is your tension. When you turn that and the caliper stops moving it clicks because that's the set tension you want that caliper to have against the material. Once that clicks you move it to see if there is more tension or less tension anywhere else. Use your tools correctly and they'll save you every time.
Not really required, some people prefer them, others like to feel the actual thimble when it stops. As long as you're consistent and that translates into all your measurements you should be good.
Still pretty confused about how and what that dial bore gage was doing
I get it. It takes time and practice to truly understand what these tools do and how to properly use them. The video is accurate, meaning the TH-camr does not mislead the audience, but there's something very different and vastly more helpful about having someone show you how in person how to use a micrometer and bore gauge (dial, like this one, or digital). I had a friend show me in person last weekend and then I spend a week using it. It was a day or so of using the tool on my own before I truly had a feeling of confidence I was using it correctly. Amazing what sitting alone in a garage with some tools and some spare time can teach us. ...and TH-cam too!
That was a pretty big gouge that you made at 4:21
Thank you for this video
You’re welcome!
Correct procedure for dialing camshafts in.
Cool video , presented well
Great vid on precision measuring! I will be using this when teaching my Auto Shop class at Boerne Champion....fwiw we have mainly Fowler tools.
Dunne says HI!
Very cool!
Thank you 👍🏼
Good video
Superb
Keep em coming
Thanks for sharing. 😉👌🏻
Vemos nesse vídeo como não manusear instrumentos de precisão e que são tão sensíveis.
😢
I love ur video would like one on one with u via my mail,planning an engine rebuild with my RX 300 lexus engine
Plastguage would be better for diy people. No micrometer needed. Most people would not be able to use those tools. It takes time to develop a feel.
Micrometer plastic gauge and some calipers
Great video, need some more tools. (:
I really really need to see how to trim a cam button a bearing button not the nylon. A diy technique with a bench grinder or whatever. And maybe checking the proper clearance. Please