Almost the same as my Dart but my linkage did not have a hex head in the end of the bolt. I had to hold it with a 20mm wrench on the back side by the ball joint boot. There was also no cotter pin. However, my tie rod end did have a Torx bit hole in the end of the ball joint bolt, so I had to tighten that nut with an 18mm wrench until it was tight enough to use the torque wrench. Wish I had this ball joint setup on my lower control arm with the thread bolt pointing down. On the Dart's lower control arm, the ball joint points up and is just a pin that goes into the steering knuckle from the bottom. That's held in place with a pinch bolt. I definitely tore the dust boot, only to find out you can't replace it or the ball joint. You have to replace the entire lower control arm. Which leads me to my question. On my Dart there is an aluminum frame rail that's in the way of removing the horizontal lower control arm bolt. In this video, it looks as if you already removed it beforehand. Is this correct because that's what I needed to see.
I've never seen a video where a dodge avenger/Chrysler 200 actually still has the under splash shield. Mine fell off quickly after I got the car because of lazy mechanics not reinstalling it securely. I do oil changes myself now and my under splash shield is where it should be. But yes, those owners that do not do their own oil changes WILL lose the shield at some point and it ends up living in their trunk, or worse yet the sloppy servicemen kept it. Its important for aerodynamics, it really is
Hey man I really hope you see this and can answer. The Haynes manual gives NO help on the drivers side removal. Do you know what mounts I need to loosen to get that bolt out in the 3.6 with a 62te. I can’t find any info on it
I think this must be the problem that I’m have it’s a clunking sound I’ve had a stabilizer sway bar replaced on the right but still has the noise should I replace both control arms?
Clunking could also be from worn out struts in the front. If you're going to replace a lower control arm with a new one, I'd replace both sides so they wear evenly. If you only have a problem on one side, and you still have fairly low miles, (50-60k) I'd replace it with a used part off of a car with similar mileage, again so they wear evenly.
Kinda wondering why this guy did anything at all with the sway bar... It's not connected to the control arm in any way. Just wasting time and customer's money there. Also wondering why he didn't coat the entire bolt in the anti-seize rather than just the part that goes through the bushings. Might be nice to be able to get those nuts off again when the rear bushing inevitably goes to crap again (especially in the snow areas)... Also wondering how TRQ recommends I get one of their replacement CV axles back out of this thing after they've been installed (2012 2.4 4 speed) because there is literally no way to pry against anything on the axle to pry it out... Beginning to think I'm going to have to pull the other side and use a long bar to hammer it out through the differential...
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I realize it's kind of randomly asking but does anybody know of a good place to watch new movies online ?
what i need do if the bolt going into front of the arm is stripped
Should i lower the weight back onto the suspension before torquing to spec?
TRQ always has GREAT videos. Excellent !!!!
Great video! If you didn't have an pickle fork could you put the nut on the stud and tap it with a hammer to get the control arm loose
+Marcus Darnell Thanks for the tip!
Almost the same as my Dart but my linkage did not have a hex head in the end of the bolt. I had to hold it with a 20mm wrench on the back side by the ball joint boot. There was also no cotter pin. However, my tie rod end did have a Torx bit hole in the end of the ball joint bolt, so I had to tighten that nut with an 18mm wrench until it was tight enough to use the torque wrench. Wish I had this ball joint setup on my lower control arm with the thread bolt pointing down. On the Dart's lower control arm, the ball joint points up and is just a pin that goes into the steering knuckle from the bottom. That's held in place with a pinch bolt. I definitely tore the dust boot, only to find out you can't replace it or the ball joint. You have to replace the entire lower control arm. Which leads me to my question. On my Dart there is an aluminum frame rail that's in the way of removing the horizontal lower control arm bolt. In this video, it looks as if you already removed it beforehand. Is this correct because that's what I needed to see.
I'm doing the driver side it's not easy that's for sure
I've never seen a video where a dodge avenger/Chrysler 200 actually still has the under splash shield. Mine fell off quickly after I got the car because of lazy mechanics not reinstalling it securely. I do oil changes myself now and my under splash shield is where it should be. But yes, those owners that do not do their own oil changes WILL lose the shield at some point and it ends up living in their trunk, or worse yet the sloppy servicemen kept it. Its important for aerodynamics, it really is
That's everything I needed to know. Thanks !!!
excellent info and detail. Well done. Thank you
Hey man I really hope you see this and can answer.
The Haynes manual gives NO help on the drivers side removal. Do you know what mounts I need to loosen to get that bolt out in the 3.6 with a 62te. I can’t find any info on it
+Kurt reidy We do not have a video for this repair right now, but we'll keep this request in mind for a future video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Thanks
I think this must be the problem that I’m have it’s a clunking sound I’ve had a stabilizer sway bar replaced on the right but still has the noise should I replace both control arms?
few things it can be. Stabilizer bar bushings, lower control arm, lower control arm balljoint.
Clunking could also be from worn out struts in the front. If you're going to replace a lower control arm with a new one, I'd replace both sides so they wear evenly. If you only have a problem on one side, and you still have fairly low miles, (50-60k) I'd replace it with a used part off of a car with similar mileage, again so they wear evenly.
My clucking sound came from bad struts on my avenger
Excelenteeee
You didn’t show the ball joint replacement
Smart
Kinda wondering why this guy did anything at all with the sway bar... It's not connected to the control arm in any way. Just wasting time and customer's money there. Also wondering why he didn't coat the entire bolt in the anti-seize rather than just the part that goes through the bushings. Might be nice to be able to get those nuts off again when the rear bushing inevitably goes to crap again (especially in the snow areas)...
Also wondering how TRQ recommends I get one of their replacement CV axles back out of this thing after they've been installed (2012 2.4 4 speed) because there is literally no way to pry against anything on the axle to pry it out... Beginning to think I'm going to have to pull the other side and use a long bar to hammer it out through the differential...
4:32 that long one what is that called? Mine split in half after going over a rock
Sway bar limks
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