How To Install A Whole House Surge Protector | TL Davis Electric & Design
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ธ.ค. 2018
- Buy a EATON Surge Protector on amazon: amzn.to/2vrAhK8
Surge Protection Flush Plate: amzn.to/2SlB6gJ
Sq D Surge Protection Device: amzn.to/2P1Q1e7
At TL Davis Electric & Design Tulsa we enjoy helping people protect there homes by teaching them basic electrical installation.
Understanding we can't help everyone because we are only located in Tulsa Oklahoma (goo.gl/maps/Xq2Ln6kNiyE2) , we decided to make a short video for people who would like to know how to install a whole house surge protector.
In this video we cut straight to the chase and give you the best surge protection device installation tutorial on the internet. We know because we checked.
Installing a surge protection device in you house is the best things you can do to protect sensitive electrons like computers, appliances, lights and a lot more.
If you live in the Tulsa area and are looking for a Tulsa electrician please give us a call we are happy to help you with all of your electrical needs. Please visit our website to learn more about the services we offer.
Website: www.daviselectricaldesign.com/
Location: Address: 10026-A S Mingo Rd Suite #211, Tulsa, OK 74133
Phone: 918-921-8984
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This was a special case to mount the SPD in the panel. Please do not mount the SPD in the panel. I have added some links to show you how to install a SPD flush mount and surface mount. I hope these video will help you to install the SPD safely. Make sure to always turn off the power if you are not an electrician.
Surface mount SPD video: th-cam.com/video/Y7eHcqroojg/w-d-xo.html
Flush mount SPD video: th-cam.com/video/oc78uzRJJo0/w-d-xo.html
How else are you supposed to install the SPD if the load center is flush mounted and surrounded by drywall?
@terrydavis Does the placement not matter if your wires aren't long enough to relocate other breakers? Is this because its still the shortest path to ground being at the panel?
Two types of people remove panel covers. Electricians and idiots.
Why should you not mount the SPD in the panel?
@@GetOffMyIce probably due to code standards. it shouldn't matter electrical wise. but an inspector if you sold the house would most likely demand it be removed. so 25 bucks for a drywall patch kit or use some scraps and youre good.
I served on USS Dace SSN 607, a Fast Attack Submarine, I was a Nuc Plant Operator and Electrician. Rarely did we ever work on energized systems, the exceptions being when underway and impossible to secure power on that particular system. Red tagging systems out with multiple signatures and reviews before working on energized gear is a typical operation. When we did operate on energized circuits we removed anything metal, and there would be 1 or 2 shipmates standing by holding ropes that were tied to the person working on on the equipment. I'm not here to lecture you but electricity is an equal opportunity killer, in fact the more experience you have the more comfortable you are in the false belief that you won't be electrocuted. Considering how easy it is for you to secure power to the panel its a very bad choice not to. After 30 years brother the odds are against you, I'd like to see you here 30 years from now. Secure the power, take care brother.
One of my biggest pet peeves: panel upside down.
Several things. It’s always a good idea to turn off the main breaker but a lot of pros don’t. They also get bit sooner or later. I like to put a couple of layers of heat shrink on the screwsdriver shaft because I have a habit of sliding my index finger on it. Ouch! Do the wiggle/rotate thingy right as you finish tightening the terminal screws. Makes a huge difference in wire connection. When you have a panel open, snug up on all the screws. If it hadn’t been done before most will be loose!
I got several screwdrivers with the metal wrapped in electrical tape. I'm in hvac... so no I'm not inside yur traditional electrical panels often outside of my own house and more times than not working in hvac control panels we have the power off anyway... but at some point there's only so much you can do with the power off. So ya gotta be safe! I like the idea you mentioned using shrink wrap!! Definitely gonna try that!
They make insulated screwdrivers for hot-work. Also, don't neglect the value of NFPA 70-110.14(D) Terminal Connection Torque.
The electrical shock will not recognize if you're an electrician or not, if you can't turn off the main panel you should wear a safety glove. You can also attach the wires first to the breaker before you plug it in to the main panel
Thanks much Terry
I dont have a surge protector for my home yet but lately weve had a lot of wind & rain as well as thunder storms
Just happened across your video & watched & enjoyed the information you gave
Ill put one in so you dont hear later of my house getting burnt to the ground
I appreciate your good work & information
Thank you, you made the video very self explanatory for anyone that might not have been comfortable in doing it before confidante in doing it now...
As a Canadian Electrician I just kept thinking #2 robby so much safer then Flat blade lol. Good install!
As soon as I saw him tying the neutral in I was like " how do they even live down there?"
I personally hate doing panel work with a flat head blade! Lol. Robinson #2 all day.
Thank you for the video. Just ordered the protection using your link, hopefully it somehow helps you the way you help me. Have a wonderful day sir!
Best video on this subject! Thank you
THANKS FOR THE VIDEO!!!
I have a couple screwdrivers I just added heat shrink to the shaft. It was more to prevent shorting components more than me getting zapped when adjusting stuff on aircraft.
Great video, just finished installing my own surge protector in my house. Easy to follow instructions. Saved myself around $850-900 dollars doing it myself.
BTW
Love your panel box compared to what I had when since I ve moved in
Great advise and instruction
Informative. Muchas gracias.
Your a good bloke.
Wonderful job, thank you so much
Nice job very clear and. Precise presentation .
Thank you so much for the video! I just hope I don't shock myself dead, lol🤩🤩🤩
Excellent video!
Very nice video Thanks
Thks man you' ve been a great help ! Rgds 👍
Excellent!
Great 👍 not too’ long, not too’ short, no big words, made it look so easy.. thank u.. took 10mins: made $400
Nice that you screwed someone.
@@13612 How is that screwing somebody ? Must be an electrican making that dumb comment
I love everything on the video besides two things that startle me! One I will always use electrical insulated gloves and I will not wear any type of jewelry whatsoever even if I’m wearing gloves! Above that everything is fine, yes you can still have power into the panel and still do your business and as long as you are being cautious! Any home DIYer should take these matters into consideration to the fullest! Now if you’re a professional electrician I can see different methods of doing this but I also recommend that you take this to the fullest and be cautious because all it takes is one time to get shocked and it may just be one shock but sometimes that can be fatal!
If you are not an electrician you should always shut the MCB off before installing the breaker. You should always wear leather gloves and safety glasses when working on electrical equipment. When doing these video's you try and get everything right. I also let them know if they feel uncomfortable they should hire it done by a licensed electrician.
I'd kill the power before opening the panel box up.
I appreciate your thorough explanation of the process of installation of this simple but important protection.
im thankful for your knowledge and willingness to share it. however watching the ground wire strands fray and a few of them didnt go in the hole is making my ocd flare up to 100!!! but seriously thank you again
Ferrules are nice and the NFPA allows them on stranded.
Good information
Good video Terry but the one thing I did notice is that directions say to twist your red and black conductors together. I've installed these before myself.
Cool video
I like the way Terry Davis installed this. I would make a peek hole to view the status lights.
I only installed it in the panel do to a special situation. Normally they are installed on the outside of the panel, either surface mount or recessed mount.
Eaton sells the breaker type.........
Thanks
COOP
the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA
...
You should mention that all wiles, especially ground and neutral wires are installed without any sharp bends, i.e., sweeping curves is OK. I see that your panel has the neutral bar connected to the panel back, which is essentially bonding the ground bar to the neutral bar. This extremely import for the surge device to operate properly.
Oh I want one of those
You've been doing this for thirty years, never once read the torque spec for tightening the connector screws, and have never considered using a torque wrench on 'em. Inspectors love guys like you!
Inspectors are a joke
@@marshalldavis7364 Torque spec. what are you building ? You must be just being funny lol.
Can I ask what you meant by do not cross the neutral wires? Great video. Thanks
Turn the main power off ALWAYS when working in the panel. Remember that the three input lines into the main breaker are STILL LIVE.
This is energized work. It's pretty tame by energized work standards but I've done just a little research, enough to get dangerous.
This is typically a 240/120V system. (Use 250V when selecting insulated tools.) Meters and probes are CAT IV. 250V has no restricted approach boundary, just work in a way that "avoids" touching energized parts. Class 00 gloves would be sufficient, but even at that lowest possible rating they're expensive.
Arc flash took some more research. Here's some testing mostly at ~7,200V and 480V. Those flames are no joke. Oh, and the *lower voltage is more dangerous*. It can strike a decent arc that takes a long time to clear, just keeps blasting flame at you.
th-cam.com/video/fZP47mlELSc/w-d-xo.html
I eventually found a PG&E policy from 2009 that sets their protection level for pulling or installing 240/120V meters at 8 calories per square centimeter. 8 cal/cm^2 is not great but it's not horrible. Hearing protection and all skin covered with fire-resistant material - think face shield, goggles, firefighter's balaclava.
www.pge.com/includes/docs/pdfs/mybusiness/customerservice/startstop/newconstruction/greenbook/servicerequirements/appB-FRletter.pdf
The best arc flash protection is minimizing the hazard. I'm looking at the gap between those hot buses and thinking "Jacob's ladder, oh hell no." I'd not be comfortable doing that work with the main breaker in. So what if you have to work by flashlight? De-energize those bus bars! Also, the screwdriver with the uninsulated shaft is an arc hazard if it's dropped into the service feeder.
So that's what I'd personally be comfortable with. Balaclava, ear plugs, face shield. Main breaker disconnected, prove the bus bars dead. Non-conductive floor, leather gloves as shock protection. Insulated tools, stay away from the service wires, cover them if possible. I would personally be comfortable with non-rated gear - cotton and wool. A dry chunk of 2x4 and duct-tape to cover the feeder; it's under 250V and tracking isn't a concern.
williamhoodtn you’re so smart
Don't give advice home owner.
Says the guy who might not have ever worked on an old Murray MB panel or some crappy old FPE. Turning off the main can open up a can of worms. Sometimes the MB cannot be reset so then what?
@@electricalron Nope, never have done that. I'm sure you are right. But since your videos are also seen by non-electricians (like me), safety should be at the top of the list when making a silly mistake can kill you.
That is a type 2 spd. You need a type 1 if you are installing in your panel. Type 2's go on an HVAC compressor unit for example.
Thanks for showing! Is there a reason you put it to the left and not the right?
Does the placement not matter if your wires aren't long enough to relocate other breakers? Is this because its still the shortest path to ground being at the panel?
I have a CH panel with a knockout at the top for this surge protector. My open breakers are at the bottom near the main shutoff. The wiring will reach, but what’s the deal with the screw holes on the front of the surge protector? If I drill two holes in the panel cover and mount it that way then I won’t be able to get the panel cover off without disconnecting it in the future. Seems odd. I was thinking of just lining up with the knockout and mounting to the panel. Thoughts?
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. How do I know what size whole house surge protector to get. I am going to install a 200 Amp 20 Space 40 Circuit Outdoor Combination Main Breaker/Ringless Meter Socket Load center. I will have (11) 20 Amp breakers,(4) 30 amp Double-Pole breakers, (1) 30 Amp Single-Pole breaker. Thank you for your time.
My main panel has the grounds and neutrals on same bar. I have no sub-panel. I was please to learn that this is ok. I've purchased a Square D whole home surge protector HEPD80. With this model I can install either to a breaker or direct bus installation. Since I do NOT have available breaker slots, I'm doing the direct bus install. The instructions show the ground and neutral going to different bars. I have additional unused isolated bars on the panel. Should I connect the ground to one of them and the neutral to the bar that shares the neutrals and grounds. Or should I just install neutral and ground on the same bar with the others ? Thanks
Great Great Video !!! What should I do if I don't have room for more breakers spaces? Any suggestions, or links? That will be greatly appreciated.
Your goal will be to attach to a double pole circuit breaker that you know will remain untripped. My suggestion is the dryer circuit. Do not illegally double-tap the existing circuit breaker. Google about this. You need to either pig tail or get a proper tandem double-pole circuit breaker replacement that is designed for double-tapping.
Nice video, thanks for sharing. Does this unit have an alarm if it has been hit and needs to be replaced? Wondering how someone would ever know if it's buried behind the cover?
It’s common to drill a small hole in line with the green lights. If the green lights are on it’s working properly. Once it’s taken too many hits depending on the electric service in that area. The lights go out. They can last 1 year or 10 years depending on the power supply surges.
Why didn't you turn off the main breaker in the panel? It seems like that is more dangerous than worrying about arcing?
Even just to set a good example for us kids
Hello sir
Does it matter where to install in fuses panel or it has to be in a specific area ?
Can you put a in line fuse in the surge supressor Hot to protect surge over 15 amps ?
i have a main panel in the house to which a 60amp line from its breaker was run to an accessory building. there is a panel and subpanel installed in this accessory building.
QUESTION: do i install 1, 2, or 3 SPD's?
i.e. will just the 1 SPD cover both the house and the accessory building
OR
do i need to install a SPD in the house and another SPD in the panel in the accessory building?
AND would the subpanel in the accessory building also need a SPD?
Thank you. (you have EXCELLENT VIDEOS !!!!)
Unless your sub-panel in the accessory building has circuits that exit the building (external lighting /pump/motor) Probably 2. Both building mains. However, if the sub panel feeds expensive equipment (welding machine/saws/motors/computers etc) which are costly to lose/repair - putting one on the sub panel (type 2) is not a bad idea..
Eaton makes a Breaker style SPD for flush mount applications
Might want to clear up some confusion for some beginners and let them know why the ground and neutral are mounted to the same buss bar, and how they are bonded only at the main panel. Also, when tightening down the crimps to copper, to go back and re tighten later as copper is soft and compresses leaving a slightly loose connection after being seated and setting for a day or so.
Yeah why the ground in the neutral bar??
Yes, why on the same bar?
Good Tip, I went back to my panel 3 months after new and re-torqued all the breaker conductor connections, found 1/4 turn on many and some took almost a full turn tighter. It is good prevention to nuisance tripping and costly breaker over heating damage.
I just want to clarify that it is not always the main panel, but is the first point of disconnect. If your outside service has a breaker that kills power to the pane where the majority of your breakers are housed,l then you need to keep the grounds and neutrals on the correct bars on that panel or mount in the disconnect(if possible) and bond grounds and neutrals
Thats not the purpose of this video
Great video! Are more than one of those devices required if there are multiple panels in a home?
No, when you install this as close to your home's power's main point of entry as possible, everything 'downstream' is protected. Since a sub panel is fed from the main panel, it is no more than another 2-pole circuit in the main panel, and therefore, protected just like everything else.
I have a main panelboard which includes the meter and the main disconnect for 200 amps. This box has room for only 8 breakers but also has pass-thru lugs at the bottom of the box. These pass-thru lugs carry power (200 amps) to a subpanel. The main panelboard as well as the subpanel are Square D. Do I install the whole house surge protector in the main panelboard or the subpanel or both. Please advise.
Mine is around 10 yrs old.. can I test it to verify it is still working?
Hi Terry. Great video and Thank you! One question: I have noticed it's SPD type 2. I just bought the Square D device similar to the Eaton. However, it's indicated that the Square D Surge protector is the SPD type 1. Can I install Square D similar to what you did with Eaton, and what is the difference between type 1 and type 2 Surge Protective Devices (SPD). Thank you.
the type 2 has a higher aic rating than the type 1. Type 1 and type 2 are indoor rated. type 3 is outdoor rated and nema 4x is outdoor rated. you have bought a good Spd. make sure you put the right breaker in for it. Good luck on your project and make sure to turn off the power to the panel if you are not an electrician.
Thanks for your comment.
It's probably too late for this, but those are probably the UL 1449 type ratings. Type 1 is intended as a permanent installation between utility and panel to arrest lightning. Type 2 is intended as just after your distribution panel and may or may not arrest lightning. Type 3 is the point of use protectors you usually find around as power strips.
blog.nvent.com/the-applications-and-limitations-of-ul-1449-for-surge-protective-devices-spds/
www.nemasurge.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/SPD-Type-Application-Considerations-Rev-Date-01-31-2013.pdf
He needed a type 1 SPD at that location. Main panel installs = type 1 SPD.
How does it work? If there is a power surge does it trip the breaker? Or it depends how big is the surge!
At my house I had power interruptions like 6 in 30 min, probably I had power surges, it fried the board on my fridge!
Question; can you piggyback the surge protector on a breaker that is being used for something else or does it have to have its own breaker?
Each big thing should get its own dedicated breaker, right?
Should do the in wall flush Mount kit so you don’t have to take the panel cover off to monitor the surge protector
It protects the main, but will it protect a 100 amp sub panel that is next to the main? I have a sub that powers a 15 amp light, 20 amp micro, and a 30 amp split AC unit with 2 heads. I have 2 spare 15 amp circuits too. This sub connects into the main with a 100 amp breaker so I think the surge protector would protect the sub too.
Is this helpful if I don't have grounded outlets? I have a grounding rod by by box but nothing is connected to it. Would something like this provide protection?
This won't work without ground.
Well done only need a quick explanation of how the knock out in the panel cover for the new breaker location is done.
Count your spaces in regard to the existing breakers and go from there. Easy way is to also hold the cover back up the way it was before, make note of which spaces need knocked out, and you're all set. Basic math. As for the physical aspect of removing the cover knock outs, take a pair of pliers (or if you have strong fingers and depending on your type of panel) and bend them whichever way the bump on the knockout rises. If it rises up towards you, bend that way. It might take a few back and forth bends before it snaps and breaks off. Some brands (Square D Homeline) can break off in one bend with just my fingers. It's relatively easy overall. (And if you break out the wrong spaces, they make space blanks for panels that can be installed to cover your mistake)
He can't because this is an illegal installation and he knows it (or should, after 30yrs). If it was the proper device for in panel installation, it would plug into the buss and the panel cover would have spaces for it.
Hey, just a quick questions regarding Neutral Bar and Ground Bar. Is it different or the same? I see that you connect ground/neutral from the device to the ground bar. Would it be the same if I connect to neutral bar? Thank you.
In a main panel they are connected. The neutral and ground bar are the same. Only in a sub panel are they seperated.
@@terrydavis5882 Then why didn't you put the green wire on the "grd." buss? Are you implying that although they are separated out in the subpanel that they are still tied together there so it doesn't matter?
Been thinking about getting one of these. This seems like an easy install but I want to watch someone else do it first. I say it looks easy but if you don't know what your doing, 220 volts on the mains can be hostile. The cities records show a transformer blew about 5 miles away knocking out the power on that side of town while creating a huge spike on our side of town. It took out both my 2000 joule surge protectors and both desktop PCs. I ended up spending about a hundred bucks on motherboards, 2 days of looking at specs and screwing them in, and I lost more money in downtime.
So was it your"whole house" surge protector blew and didn't even protect your computers?
@@24kgalaxy I had 1 20k joule surge protector, 2 motherboards that were plugged into the surge protector, 1 modem, and a drop cable amplifier that was taken out. A whole house surge protector probably would have helped me out.
The lights flickered then I heard an explosion. Then I notice things not working on my PC like my USB ports. I looked at my surge protector and it was red instead of green.
So once the cover is installed, you won't be able to view the green lights. Do you ever drill viewing holes in the cover to see the lights? How would you know if this is operational after an event without removing the whole cover in your installation example?
Hi, if you install the protector behind the panel, how can you observe the green LED lights after you reinstall the panel cover. Thanks
I installed mine on the outside
Wait, so you can just mount them inside the case? This whole time, I've been using those in wall cut in style boxes you can get for these, witch can be a pain in the ass depending on space. Or mounting a 4 square, unless using a CH panel. Normally I just use the breaker style if it's a BR
Hello Travis good video.....I’m Electrician beginner here on fort Myers and I would know how much charge for the customer to change it ???
Most electricians are charging starting at $400.00 and up to install the Spd 50KA
My sister just purchased a house that had one of those Eaton surge protectors installed on the outside of the box. Until then, I had never seen one. My concern is that the metal connecters on each side of the device are exposed and could be touched by her grandchildren. I'm wondering if those connecters on the left and right of the Eaton surge protector are "hot" and a potential hazard when the green lights are lit?
6:32: It startled me when the motor turns on as you're inserting the wire into the breaker. Coincidence? LOL.
Great catch on that. There was a freezer next to the panel that kicked on when we turned on the breaker.
My panel is full but I have 4 spaces on the outside disconnect. Is there any issues with it being added to the bottom of the meter base? The entire system is Eaton with snap in neutral bar.
My question is, if my heatpump uses a 60amp breaker can I still install one of these considering it asks for 2 15amps pole or the 50amps pole for eaton chspt2ultra?
Terry, Thank you so much. I am a musician and have a room dedicated to Guitar amps and etc.. I have had in 3 amps a noticable noise and sound change. I ve had all 3 amps get damaged from a badly wired a outlet. My friend who is an electrician and fixed it for now. I have been investigatipng power conditioners. I like the Idea of the surge protector for the whole house. I will get it done! Can you recommend the best power conditioner I can buy?. i am familiar with Furman but not even sure what one to get any suggestions ? I need it to be a power conditioner, surge proyector. What about Voltage? What about any other considerations? Greg J in LA
Furman is a good quality one. I have also done a dedicated line from the panel where the power and neutral and ground do not connect with any other outlet. If you do this do not connect the ground to the back of the box. Use a dedicated orange receptacle to indicate this line is dedicated. I do this a lot for computer circuits and cash registers.
Furman also offer some rackmount powerbar with isolation transformer and ground lift switch that can help
After you install this device is it necessary to install other surge protection on things like the AC outside unit or other large appliances?
Yes layering surge protection is always recommended!
If you're not an electrician can you just turn off the power at the outside breaker to be extra safe?
Good installation. I personally would wear gloves and use an insulated screwdriver.
you must not be an electrician.
Would this offer surge protection for my home built in 1952? The circuits in the basement are grounded but the main level circuits are not grounded. All of the main level receptacles are 2 wire.
Yes. You are protecting the panel and all device down stream from the panel. You are trying to stop the surge at the panel and not at the device.
I had an electrician install a 200 amp panel outside the house and a 100 amp sub panel in the garage. Would I need 2 of these or just one outside? I upgraded from an old push breaker bulldog panel.
You only need 1 Spd. You should install it in the main panel and not the sub panel.
This is 36 k is good for big house ,or 108 kv
Good video. Question: what if the breaker box is full?
You would need to upgrade your panel to a larger one
@@ShanPrez This is not true. I will repeat what I said elsewhere: Your goal will be to attach to a double pole circuit breaker that you know will remain untripped. My suggestion is the dryer circuit. Do not illegally double-tap the existing circuit breaker. Google about this. You need to either pig tail or get a proper tandem double-pole circuit breaker replacement that is designed for double-tapping.
Does the Surge Protector have to have it's own breaker or can it be shared with an appliance that has the same Amp setting?
Its own dedicated breaker, no sharing, and always close to the entrance point (main breaker) so it can take the brunt of the surge.
I bought a CHSPT2ULTRA my instructions said to connect the white wire to the neutral bus and the green wire to the ground bus. I saw you connected the neutral wire and the ground wire to the same bus. Is that because there was no ground bar?
How do you size the surge protector, meaning 15 A vs 50 A? Wouldn't it be better to install it outside of the breaker box, so you can see the indicator lights? But if you did, how would you work around the sheetrock?
The surge protection will have information telling what size of breaker to use. And if you want to put it on the outside. You can use 1/2” flex and two flex connector and a deep 4 square box. Knock out the 1/2” ko in the box and one in the panel. Do not add wiring to lengthen the wire on the surge protection device. If you need a diagram you can email me at daviselectricaldesign@gmail.com
@@terrydavis3863 Thanks! I understand. For sizing, I mean, how do you know whether to buy the CHSPT2SURGE (which takes a 20 amp breaker) or CHSPT2ULTRA (which takes a 50 amp breaker)? Looking at specs online I see a kA surge rating, but how does one determine how many kiloamps to protect against?
Sorry, 15 amp, not 20.
If the surge protector does its job and breaks a surge, is it possible to reset that protector or do you need to replace it with a new one?
Sorry the long delay. Eaton makes a flush mounting kit to install it in the sheet rock. On residential homes I would not install greater than 50 kva as it is a waste of money. 50 kva, 80 kva, 100 kva, do the exact same thing. Just look at as hits. 50 hits, 80 hits, 100 hits,
You seem to connect the white neutral and green ground wires to the same bar? Is that correct as I can see another bar on the right side of the box where there are some green wires connected?
Yes that’s fine.
In a service entrance panel like this there are usually at least two, and I have seen as many as four, ground/neutral bars. The service entrance panel is the first breaker panel past the meter, whether it's mounted inside or outside.
@@robertmoore254 Yeah but it appears he's working in the sub-panel, not the main service panel (which normally is outside in new-builds anyway). In the main panel, they're combined so if you're putting an SPD there they go together on the one buss. In the sub-panel they're separated...like this panel. So why wouldn't the green wire not go to the ground buss (with the rest of the green grd. wires) rather than with the white wire on the neutral buss? It appears to me Mr. Davis has contradicted himself on several occasions/comments here.
Funny seeing Mike Holmes. I installed Sycom device like they showed on TV years ago and later found they caused fires.
I looked the story up. They are no longer in business. But this is an Eaton product, why smear Mike Holmes? He doesn't make the products.
@@robertlee4172 I did not smear anyone. Just pointing out fact.
@@gregsz1ful Did Holmes endorse the Sycom product, or merely used it on an install? Ya, I thought so.
@@robertlee4172 His registered electrician installed it. If you watched all of Holmes shows, you have seen it installed several times. Not sure what your problem is.
@@robertlee4172 Holmes endorsed installing a surge device many times. after my original Sycom device exploded during a storm, they sent me a replacement. After installing a new one ai learned about the recall.
I just have 1 question did he just connect the ground to the neutral bar can you do that
Thank you for sharing it. You video shows we need to install an additional breaker in order to install CHSPT2ULTRA surge protection device. Is it right? Can we just let CHSPT2ULTRA share an existing breaker? If not, why? Thanks and regards.
The spd has to be on its own circuit breaker. I would recommend it to be near the main breaker if possible. If you share the breaker the device using that breaker would not be protected as the ones not sharing the breaker. Please do not install the device in the panel this was a special case and had to get permission from the local inspector to do so. You can always surface mount or recess mount the spd. There should be examples of this.
@@terrydavis5882 Thank you for the information. It helps a lot!
@@terrydavis5882 If I use "EATON CHSPT2ULTRA Ultimate Surge Protector", can either one of the following two 50AMP double pole breakers be used with the surge protector? Thank you.
(1)
www.amazon.com/Corporation-CL250CS-Classified-Replacement-Breaker/dp/B0058I30Q0/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3TEF0B95LRCDK&dchild=1&keywords=eaton+50+amp+double+pole+breaker&qid=1591549364&sprefix=eaton+50%2Caps%2C170&sr=8-1
(2)
www.amazon.com/Q250-50-Amp-Double-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B00002N7KX/ref=pd_bxgy_img_3/140-6689945-7881014?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00002N7KX&pd_rd_r=18764874-0ec7-43e8-9483-8900618d366e&pd_rd_w=e4UYb&pd_rd_wg=JVl7A&pf_rd_p=4e3f7fc3-00c8-46a6-a4db-8457e6319578&pf_rd_r=RES1H4BZEYQT166VEWJC&psc=1&refRID=RES1H4BZEYQT166VEWJC
@@bjt512 Either of the two will work in your panel. Good luck and make sure to turn off the main switch if you are not compatible with the main breaker being on.
@@terrydavis5882 Thank you!
It does not matter where it is located in the main box but every manufacturer recommends the wires be as short and straight as possible to the associated breaker.
It does not matter on location in box. You are correct!. They don't like them more than 3' in length, the longer they are the less efficient they become. Good job.
The only problem I have with this installation is the unit is mounted inside the panel. The homeowner has to remove the cover to check the status of the unit. The suppressor needs to be mounted on the outside of the panel so that the homeowner can check it without being exposed to live components.
You could mount the spd outside of the panel but you must not exceed the 1 meter wire limits. The shorter the wire used the better.
I agree with installing outside the box to check the status of the lights at a glance.
You could drill a couple of small holes to view the lights.
turn off main power before working in the box
@@williamtamminga5889 there's a lot of wrong w/ this. To turn off the power completely you'd have to pull the meter and in our area you can't do that without a permit. When you turn the main breaker off there is still voltage present on the Line side of the main breaker. So with the main breaker off, it's still considered energized because there is voltage present and pulling a permit for this application isn't practical. Unfortunately most electricians are not trained in electrical safety even though they're electricians. I know, it sounds crazy but I see and hear it all the time.
Does it matter where the breaker is located in the box? Does it have to be closes to the main or can it be installed at the end of the box furthest from the main?
The breaker can be installed any where in the box. The total length of the wire cannot be over 3' in length. The closer items will not be protected as well when you add length to the wire. Good luck on your project
Hi i got a quick question. Does the surge protector cover the 220v outlet and the 110 outlets?
The SPD covers both phases. You will need a two pole breaker that is dedicated for the SPD and follow manufacture recommendation on amps for your SPD.
So the neutral and the ground were connected on the same terminal board?
Does a meter based surge protector eliminate the need for surge protection in the panel? Wouldn’t one at the meter protect whole house instead of getting separate surge protectors for the breakers in garage/pool/and AC. I’m considering getting the plan through my electric company. The fee is small but you pay monthly. I have surge protector at each of my expensive devices. Thank you
Here you can pay 5 or 10 a month for a surge protector outside on the meter ,do you need 2 protector doing the same thing, no I would not .
@@SG-zh5xdthey're not doing the same thing.
I always put the wires in the breaker in my hand first then mount it in the panel, done. Might be wrong but then I’m working away from the box.
Not wrong at all. I've been doing that for years.
this protects the ac unit as well?
also, ive always wired my breakers then snapped them in, just done that because its easier to get the wires in and tightened down. is this wrong?
This is nothing wrong with wiring the breaker first and then snapping the breaker into place. I wire them into the breaker to keep the wires nice and clean. But it is up to the installer to do what he feels is right for him.
How does it protect the whole home electricity? Let say you have a power surge, how does that device stop all the current from flowing to those remaining breakers? I’m really curious because I want install as well?
It doesn't prevent the flash from entirely happening or damage occurring but what is ment to do is use 50%of its self before it can take another hit but it will always take the hit before distributing current/ark flash to other circuits that have appliances connected on them tvs washer dryer etc.
I can't drill down on the exact physics behind it, but it will draw and "absorb" the high voltage and prevent the the other circuits from receiving high-voltage current. There are two things to know: 1) The high-voltage surge does not necessary have a high enough ampacity to trip the other conventional circuit breakers. 2) The other breakers only prevent over-amperage; NOT over-voltage. Typically, electronics are destroyed by surges from high voltage; NOT high-amperage. High amperage occurs usually from a short condition (which the surge protector ignores). Hope this helps.
path of least resistance...
I am planning to put a surge protector on 9 of our homes(family and rentals) etc. can I use one type for all homes?
Yes you can. You can surface mount them or recess them. Please do not put them inside the panel. That was for a special case. I have links you can use or you can choose your own. If you decide to recess them into the drywall. you will need a flush plate. make sure to use the closes knock out at the bottom or top of the panel. do not use the ones closes to either side as you will need room to recess the the Spd. Your panel will have wood on both side of it and will make it very difficult to install one. Make sure to turn off the power. Good luck with your project.
Do you connect the neutral and ground wires to the same bar?
In the main panel the neutral and ground bar are connected with a bar, So it doesn't matter. Only in a sub panel are they suppose to be separated. You do not want to install a SPD in a sub panel as it will not protect the main panel.
I just installed my 240V Car charger with 2 50amp breakers can I pop this in there instead of adding another 2? I would get the other model not this one.
tyia