Thanks for a great video. I had a contractor come in on a government grant and they laid the insulation across timbers, long ways. They said that, that was the best way to stop drafts and the other way (the usual way) was incorrect. I now have condensation. I think i may go up and 1. Check the ventilation and 2. Turn it round.
I can assure you as an ex installer cross laying is the most affective way of Installing. Should have a slight gap between where the wool meets the roof in the eve to allow ventilation. Laying both layers in the bays does not give you a complete ceil. Almost sure since great deal hit it's mandatory for all lofts to be cross layed. Side note, any down lights should have a 6" Gap for ventilation, if not you run risk of over heating them and busting them regularly
Thanks but are the spotlight covers really needed? I thought they’d only be needed for halogens. I have the Philips hue spotlights which are LED, so shouldn’t give off heat, but they don’t give a description of the fire rating…
*Great video, one of the Best i ever saw!* I'm an absolute Rockwool fan (without Alu foil)! My question: What do we do in the summertime, when the Loft is very hot? Don't we have to insulate the pitched roof as well, to prevent the overheating of the Loft? Because you wrote (comment) that we don't need to add insulation into the roof itself.
Based on this video - for any sections I don’t want to board. Is it best to run the first 100mm parallel to the joists in the voids…then the 200mm ontop of that should run at a 90degree angle laid on top?
Great explained. I am only concerned if the cables and junction boxes should not be covered before putting insulation on? I have seen some kind of pvc protectors for cables. Do you think it would be good idea to use them or not necessary?
Thank you for the video. My only question is our current insulation is 300mm but not boarded. We want to board it to use for storage. Our potential contractor keeps saying we can can lay the floor boards directly on the joists without suppressing the insulation and removing the excess of the insulation to cover the rest of attic side or something. It does not recommend using ‘joist legs’. Is this acceptable? Would you recommend joist legs or directly putting the boards on top of the joist? He says he want squash the insulation but cut it and put around the sides or something like that.
Recommended insulation depth is 270mm, so if you're able to take 30mm off the top and utilise it in currently un-insulated areas then that would be reasonable. But much will depend on how "proud" the insulation sits from your joists. The moment you start to squash it, the less effective it becomes, so try and avoid squashing it if possible. The other point to note is that you don't need to board the whole loft - Loft Legs work great in sections / areas for storage, rather than boarding a whole loft - it's probably less expensive / time consuming than you think if you decide to add 2 or 3 sections of storage area.
I have a ceiling which curves down to meet the wall behind which the soffit area is situated. Where the vents are in the soffit, it appears we have a little black mould showing the other side visible from the bedroom. As I'm dealing with woodworm and have cleared the loft out completely for spraying, I wondered, what's best when replacing the insulation? Should I be looking at putting the insulation down into the soffit area or simply across the gap? Also, as the void behind the ceiling will act as a cold spot and is likely to be a pretty major source of heat loss, should I be lookig at squirting a thin layer of foam down there to insulate the rear of the plasterboard?
I'm doing loft insulation taking out the old and putting in new. I've got a hip roof at front of the house which caters for the bedroom bay window. Can I insulate the joists in the hip roof and add a top layer?
Hi there, I don't see why not - if you can get yourself into the space above the bedroom bay, and the joists are in god condition - no damp etc - then 240mm of wool insulation will definitely help. Or... do you mean insulate the rafters above, supporting the roof structure?
Should I insulate the pitched roof? With Insulation board etc? and do i need a membrane of some sort? Basically, in my loft Im looking at the reverse of the slate.
If your loft is properly insulated on the "floor", then you don't need to add insulation into the roof itself. However, you may require some membranes underneath your slate tiles. Presumably unless the fit of those tiles is 100% perfect, when it rains outside, it rains in the loft too? This is what roofing membranes are for, so it might be wise to speak to a roofing expert and see what they suggest.
Thanks. Skip to 8:45 for the actual installation
Best comment ever!
Thanks for a great video. I had a contractor come in on a government grant and they laid the insulation across timbers, long ways. They said that, that was the best way to stop drafts and the other way (the usual way) was incorrect. I now have condensation. I think i may go up and 1. Check the ventilation and 2. Turn it round.
I can assure you as an ex installer cross laying is the most affective way of Installing. Should have a slight gap between where the wool meets the roof in the eve to allow ventilation. Laying both layers in the bays does not give you a complete ceil. Almost sure since great deal hit it's mandatory for all lofts to be cross layed.
Side note, any down lights should have a 6" Gap for ventilation, if not you run risk of over heating them and busting them regularly
Are you supposed to leave a gap at the edges of the roof to allow air flow. Thanks
Thanks but are the spotlight covers really needed? I thought they’d only be needed for halogens. I have the Philips hue spotlights which are LED, so shouldn’t give off heat, but they don’t give a description of the fire rating…
What about putting the insulation up to where the roof meets the loft floor is there any rules around that?
*Great video, one of the Best i ever saw!* I'm an absolute Rockwool fan (without Alu foil)!
My question: What do we do in the summertime, when the Loft is very hot? Don't we have to insulate the pitched roof as well, to prevent the overheating of the Loft? Because you wrote (comment) that we don't need to add insulation into the roof itself.
Is it best to install a moisture barrier before laying blanket insulation?
Based on this video - for any sections I don’t want to board. Is it best to run the first 100mm parallel to the joists in the voids…then the 200mm ontop of that should run at a 90degree angle laid on top?
Dissapointed thst you dont mention the air gap between insulation and boards
Great video, what do you recommend doing around the eaves to help maintain cross ventilation?
Great explained. I am only concerned if the cables and junction boxes should not be covered before putting insulation on? I have seen some kind of pvc protectors for cables. Do you think it would be good idea to use them or not necessary?
Just off to buy some insulation so that guy doesn't kill me
nice explanation video! I only have a question why you are not using vapour barrier under insulation ?
You don't need vapour barrier under the insulation just air flow at the eaves.
Absolutely superb.
Thank you!
Thank you for the video. My only question is our current insulation is 300mm but not boarded. We want to board it to use for storage. Our potential contractor keeps saying we can can lay the floor boards directly on the joists without suppressing the insulation and removing the excess of the insulation to cover the rest of attic side or something. It does not recommend using ‘joist legs’. Is this acceptable? Would you recommend joist legs or directly putting the boards on top of the joist? He says he want squash the insulation but cut it and put around the sides or something like that.
Recommended insulation depth is 270mm, so if you're able to take 30mm off the top and utilise it in currently un-insulated areas then that would be reasonable. But much will depend on how "proud" the insulation sits from your joists. The moment you start to squash it, the less effective it becomes, so try and avoid squashing it if possible.
The other point to note is that you don't need to board the whole loft - Loft Legs work great in sections / areas for storage, rather than boarding a whole loft - it's probably less expensive / time consuming than you think if you decide to add 2 or 3 sections of storage area.
I have a ceiling which curves down to meet the wall behind which the soffit area is situated.
Where the vents are in the soffit, it appears we have a little black mould showing the other side visible from the bedroom.
As I'm dealing with woodworm and have cleared the loft out completely for spraying, I wondered, what's best when replacing the insulation?
Should I be looking at putting the insulation down into the soffit area or simply across the gap?
Also, as the void behind the ceiling will act as a cold spot and is likely to be a pretty major source of heat loss, should I be lookig at squirting a thin layer of foam down there to insulate the rear of the plasterboard?
Don't block your soffits! They are needed for air flow ventilating the loft to remove moisture from the air
I'm doing loft insulation taking out the old and putting in new. I've got a hip roof at front of the house which caters for the bedroom bay window. Can I insulate the joists in the hip roof and add a top layer?
Hi there, I don't see why not - if you can get yourself into the space above the bedroom bay, and the joists are in god condition - no damp etc - then 240mm of wool insulation will definitely help.
Or... do you mean insulate the rafters above, supporting the roof structure?
Should I insulate the pitched roof? With Insulation board etc? and do i need a membrane of some sort? Basically, in my loft Im looking at the reverse of the slate.
If your loft is properly insulated on the "floor", then you don't need to add insulation into the roof itself. However, you may require some membranes underneath your slate tiles. Presumably unless the fit of those tiles is 100% perfect, when it rains outside, it rains in the loft too? This is what roofing membranes are for, so it might be wise to speak to a roofing expert and see what they suggest.
You should have your roof re tiled with a breathable membrane
the lady is lovely :) but the bloke is over caffeinated
i thought the bloke was good and clearly passionate about his work
NOT really helpful as i want to actually USE my loft.
Which bit of insulating your loft makes your loft unusable? And why would you want to use an uninsulated loft?
Use loft legs to raise floor so you can put stuff for storage
The video is called how to insulate your loft, not how to use your loft 🤷♂️