Much thanks! We were able to turn off the water and stop the leakage. We think a couple of pipes in our system may have broken in the freeze we had a few weeks back. We just needed to get the water leaks stopped so we can figure out the next step. Appreciate this video greatly!!
Outstanding, professional, and most importantly, spoke in layman's terms, easy to comprehend. I was wondering, can you provide if feasible, Information on how to relocate irrigation water Lines if a concrete slab was to be poured, but homeowner preferes to relocate the water Lines instead of capping the spinkler heads. Then maybe another time, another video on how to relocate the valves when these are scattered throughout the yard. Thank you and may the Lord richly Bless you.
Most if the time a reroute is just a big U around an obstacle, patio, tree, etc…in the most simple way of looking at it is, marking all heads, doing the reroute and running the system to make sure no coverage is missing. In the case of adding something like a patio, you’ll have to move or add heads to get head to head coverage. I hope the best for you!
The best simpleforward explanation. I already followed checked continuity at the controller and connections are open. I will try to fix the issues soon. Thanks you
A backflow is only required if you plan to leave the water lines open for irrigation correct? I plan just to turn on and off the lines when I need to water.
Hello Jimmy…. Your channel is very helpful. I have a backflow on my system, however the handles and nuts are rusted and will not turn. I sprayed WD40 & Silicone Lubricant on the rusted areas, but they still won’t move by hand. I tried channel locks as well, however I was concerned that if I apply too much pressure, then I would break the backflow assembly. Do you have any tips for getting the handles to move without damaging the backflow assembly? In advance, THANKS for your help!
No, I spray with wd40 and if that doesn’t work I have to turn off at the street. You can put a ball valve after the backflow and will have a way to turn it off in an emergency.
Very informative and helpful video. I have one question, shouldn’t the extra valve you show after the BVP be before the BVP? Between the main water line and BVP so you can do maintenance on the BVP like you mentioned? I’m planning on installing that additional valve.
Thank you, and yes on a new installation the ball valve would be before the backflow preventer. However with all the older systems many times they are placed after the backflow, usually because the handles have rusted off of the backflow and they need a way to turn the water off. So this is a very common configuration for older systems. Hope that helps. Have a great weekend!
@@sprinklerrepair4L yes that is helpful and good to know thank you for the quick response! I live in south east Texas so you know we just experienced near record low temps!
Great video! I want to learn how to install/troubleshoot/repair irrigation systems, where do I go to get training and get licensed by the state of Tx.?
I love this video so much. Just to be clear. I have the main water value from the city, main sprinkler valve going to sprinkler system, the Master value and the zone valves and of course backflow valve. Does the master valve need to be On or OFF position when using the controller zone water schedule? I hope I am saying this correctly.
If I understand your question, the controller has to turn the master valve on before any of the other valves works. But it doesn’t operate with any sort of manual handle. It’s just like any other valve in your yard, but it’s placed up right after the backflow as a safety in case one of the other valves go bad and are stuck open. Hope that helps.
Great explanation and demonstration. My irrigation is on a separate meter from my house and the back flow valve is above ground. I have disconnected it and removed it for the winter. If I turn on my irrigation system with no incoming water,,will it do any damage? Or, will it simply open the valves and let any water remaining in the lines flow to the lowest point?
You can run them a few seconds to release pressure, but they are water cooled and will over heat and possibly fail if you turn them on for longer durations.
As water flows through anything there will be some loss based on friction. When you know the flow and pressure you can calculate the loss through Meter, Backflow, valves, and pipe. Here is a site that can help if you want to learn more. www.irrigation.org/IA/Resources/Tools-Calculators/IA/Resources/Tools-Calculators.aspx
Ball valves were not required in the past, so most older systems don’t have one and the handles rust off of most of the DC. If you put a ball valve on before the DC you have to pull a permit and the costs sky rockets. If you put it past the back flow, a permit is not required and you can save up to 75% of the cost.
A MV acts as a safety mechanism in case any of your other valves fail open. When the controller turns of the last scheduled valve, it also turns off your MV and stops any valve that has failed. So yes, it is good to have a master valve.
Is there any way to find where sprinkler lines exist under my lawn without digging? I need to rototill some areas and would rather get the lines moved before I tear them into little pieces with heavy equipment.
This is a nice visual display! Thank you. I’m afraid a backflow device was not installed in my system. I did however find a pressure regulator. Is there any way to turn off the sprinkler system using that? I have a leak and need some help. Thank you!
No, unfortunately a pressure regulator will not turn off the irrigation system. U can always install a ball valve to turn the water off or have a backflow installed. I hope the best for you!
Yes, it can be. However, there are check valves and heads, valves, and other irrigation components that are not considered backflow. I North Texas a backflow would be considered a double check, or RPZ in most cases.
Thanks for this explanation! Questions. I noticed you turned just one of the handles on the back flow device, does it matter which one you turn to shut off the water flow? Also, is this what you do to turn off the water to the irrigation for winter? Thanks!
Yes, you only need to turn one of the handles off. Yes, newer systems have a pvc ball valve you can turn off the system, but if yours doesn’t, you turn off the backflow.
Great visual video, thank you. My valve box is full of water and the ground is wet around it. When I close the valves inside the box it dissipates from the inside of the valve box and the ground dries. Do you think the leak is in the valve or an underground pvc?
If I understand correctly, you are mechanically turning the valve off and on from the box. If i'm correct in my assumption, then yes you will see it leak as long as the bleed screw is open or the solenoid being open to a certain degree. I hope the best for you!
@@sprinklerrepair4L Yes because the ground outside close to the master valve is wet and the master valve has water in it. When I close the two valves from the master valve (one that leads to the city and the other to the sprinkler) the ground eventually dries inside the master valve and the ground outside the master valve dries too. Is the leak then somewhere on the ground where it is really wet and mushy?
@@sprinklerrepair4L i have 65 PSI and 7 gallons per minute. The line that supplies my house is 3/4 , from there to my back flow preventer or valves 1" and to my heads 3/4 or 1" also?
Thank you. I started by working on my own system, then getting my license, then started part time, then I’ll watch my own company several years after I had my license. I hope the very best for you!
I have a drip system on station 1 for flower bed and grass sprinkler for the back yard on another station. For some reason when station one goes on, it also triggers the back yard sprinkler. What is causing this? There are a total of 8 stations. The back yard keeps turning on with only the drip stations 1 and 8.
It sounds like the controller might be giving AC to both zones. If it was coming on with all stations it would be a bad valve on the zone that is running when it shouldn't.
Hi Jimmy I have an issue trying to figure out.🤬 I found that the pressure was low in zone 3. I located the t fitting that had a crack in it. Replaced all fittings and left everything exposed- turned the water valve back on but in the am saw water in the hole. It seems the pressure is pushing water through the top of the sprinkler head that I replaced which is new. however when I manually test zone 3 pressure seems fine? 🤔 first I thought it was just excess water in the line but after 5 min. I see the water drip down the sprinkler head. Could I possibly have another break somewhere else?
mick brown if I’m understanding correctly the head continues to leak when the controller has it off? If so, that is indicative of a bad valve most of the time...here’s a video on how to change out the guts... th-cam.com/video/Y-SzmZZ2VUk/w-d-xo.html
4L Irrigation Repair thank you very much for the quick reply I just watched the video and I believe that’s probably the only thing that I did not test or check out was the solenoid or the actual valve in the box I will do that this evening! Thank you from Richmond Texas! Stay safe!😷👍
does the backflow have to be raised and does it leak water? Pertaining to the master valve, do you really need it? yo didnt go into much detail as far as the function and purpose for it
You'd have to read the manual on your brand and type of backflow but many are required to be a certain height. A master valve is a safety to stop the loss of water in case one of your other valves go bad. It's not needed to run your system though. If you install a new system in Texas you are required to have one. If you have a valve that goes bad and is running 24/7, if you have a MV it will only allow water to the other valves when the controller is running, thus saving lots of water and $$$.
@@sprinklerrepair4L Ahh ok. So, for a typical setup to home, the proper order is as follows: Home - shutoff valve - back flow preventer - master valve (if a new system) - irrigation heads. This is correct right? I didn't add the Y restrainer before backflow because in Texas it is no longer required.
Hey, Jimmy. I want to do a manual test on all of my valves. If I have a master valve on my system, do I need to manually open the MV solenoid before I can manually test any others?
Yes, exactly. If for some reason it’s not opening manually, you can put the master valve wire in zone one and set it to one run an hour or how much time you need, and then manually test them.
@@sprinklerrepair4L Sorry to bother again. However, I believe I'm having a controller issue. I have a Hunter X-Core and It seems every couple of weeks my controller is resetting the time and date on it's own. Run times, start times and watering days are unaffected but of course when the date resets, the controller loses the day of the week, which inturn, throws off my watering days. When it does that, it also seems to skip a couple of zones on the days that it does water. Also, sometimes when trying to do a manual run at the controller, when I switch the selector to manual, the screen reads "error". I've done a factory reset as per the owner's manual instructions and it still does the same thing. All ohm and voltage readings are in range but due to the issues I'm having, do you think I need a new controller?
@@frankieportillo2366 probably do need a controller. If you want to be sure call Hunter Support and they will walk you through everything and tell you if u need anew controller
So I have 11 zones in my system. My system runs off of a shallow well with a 2 Hp pump. System comes on fine with timer and works great until it reaches zone # 8. At that point pressure drops dramatically in zone #8 and only a small stream comes from one or two of that zones heads. I then go to my well pump and crack the threaded bleeder on top of the impeller housing. air bubbles will then come out and within a minute or two zone #8 will pressurize and come to life. The system will then finish off the remaining watering cycle without a hitch. Next day this same problem will repeat. What might I check in my system? Thanks
I have a zone that continuously runs while the others run also. I have replaced the zone but still have the same problem. I’m thinking maybe it’s my controller. Any help would be appreciated thanks!
That can certainly happen, turn on one zone that is not stuck on, and then turn your multi meter to AC and put one probe on the common and one probe on the zone that is stuck on. If that zone has AC going to it, when it is not turned on, then you know it’s the controller. If you don’t have a multi meter switch the wire of the zone that is stuck on with another wire. If that zone stops watering in the other zone starts watering all the time, it is your controller. If that zone still waters all the time after you switched the wire, it is the valve.
Good day. With regards to the PBV, which I need to replace mine (Febco 365-1), I just saw a video in which they indicate that the PBV needs to be 12 inches above the highest emission point. Could you explain what that means? Thanks
I'll try....in order for it to work correctly it needs to be 12" above the highest head or emission point. So, if you have a 24" riser in your flower bed and that is your highest point on your system, it will need to be somewhere on your property that elevation brings it up or you'll need to increase the height so it is at least 12" above that point.
@@sprinklerrepair4L Thanks. I wasn't sure if a faucet would fall under the category. I know those cold Feb days here in TX. Great channel and thanks for the response.
Hello, I have a question about my irrigation system. My sprinkler system stopped working. There is no water going to the solonoid valves. I have already checked the back flow system and there is water running through. Any help is appreciated.
That’s a tough one, usually someone has installed a ball valve somewhere along the way and it is turned off. If that’s not the case then it could be some sort of blockage. I will say that is rare. The only way to trace it out is to go 10 feet up on your main line and cut it and see if you have pressure if you do you go 10 more feet up and do the same thing until you find the area that is blocked. Obviously you will have to repair every time you do a cut or drill a hole to see if water is flowing at that point.I hope the best for you!
So we turned off both handles on our backflow device, but now we're having a hard time getting one of them turned back on. Any ideas? Do we need to turn off the water at our meter to get out back on?
Most system split off of the main, so unless you have a separate meter for your irrigation, there probably isn’t a way to turn off the water to the house and leave the irrigation on.
The problem that I'm having here is that all the valves are buried below ground with no markers. I have 4 zones that are not responding to the controller and I can not locate any of them. It's very frustrating since replacing a solenoid or repairing the electrical line is fairly simple.
Honestly speaking, I have spent four years in the landscaping field, no one from managers was able to explain this as you did. Thanks a lot. 👏🤝
Thank you for the kind words! So glad it was helpful.
When the student is ready, the teacher will appear. - Someone, Many years ago
Thank you so much for this. You saved the day with helping me keep water on at house while stopping massive leak!
So glad to hear!
Great video! Simple, clear, to the point explanation and nice demo setup! Thanks!
Thank you!
THANK YOU!! I’ve watched a few videos that left me as confused as I was at the beginning but you explained everything beautifully.
Thank you, my pleasure!
You're the first person that helped me semi understand this. I'm attempting this in my front yard. It's never had an irrigation system.
Thank you, I hope the very best for you!
Now I understand my system. Turn off is by house. Much thanks.
So glad to hear!
Much thanks! We were able to turn off the water and stop the leakage. We think a couple of pipes in our system may have broken in the freeze we had a few weeks back. We just needed to get the water leaks stopped so we can figure out the next step. Appreciate this video greatly!!
My pleasure!
Thank you for demystifying this. I really enjoy your content.
Thank you!
This is the best video that details layout of components👍 Thank you 🙏
My pleasure!
Good video , very well explanation of how it works , thank you .
Thank you! You’re welcome!
Excellent video! Thank you sir! You nailed the important concepts and you are a gifted teacher!
Thank you!
Straight to the point - thank you!
My pleasure
Thank you im becoming a sprinkler system problem solver. Excellent video
Thank you, my pleasure
Awesome helpful video. Thank you.
My pleasure!
Beautiful explanation..THANK U
My pleasure!
Excellent overview. The visual was exactly what I was looking for !
Thank you!
Awesome video! Thank you
My pleasure!
thank you for the demonstration!
My pleasure!
thank you for sharing this information.
My pleasure!
Great presentation. I’ve always wondered how my residential irrigation system was plumbed together. Thx so much for putting this together!
My pleasure!
Thank you! Really helpful
@@Nintendomac my pleasure!
Outstanding, professional, and most importantly, spoke in layman's terms, easy to comprehend. I was wondering, can you provide if feasible, Information on how to relocate irrigation water Lines if a concrete slab was to be poured, but homeowner preferes to relocate the water Lines instead of capping the spinkler heads. Then maybe another time, another video on how to relocate the valves when these are scattered throughout the yard. Thank you and may the Lord richly Bless you.
Most if the time a reroute is just a big U around an obstacle, patio, tree, etc…in the most simple way of looking at it is, marking all heads, doing the reroute and running the system to make sure no coverage is missing. In the case of adding something like a patio, you’ll have to move or add heads to get head to head coverage. I hope the best for you!
Amazing Information!
Thank you so much !!!! I learned so much and it works great now!!!!!
You're welcome!
Very informative!! Thank you
My pleasure!
Fantastic video!
Thank you!
@@sprinklerrepair4L Would you need a backflow preventer if the system is hooked up to an outdoor spiget instead of directly from the main line?
That maybe tricky, I’d check your local and state laws. If everything is above ground you might be ok
Nice video. Thank you.
My pleasure!
This was a perfect visual 👏🏼 Ty
Thank you!
Very good explanation!! Thank you!
Thanks
This was VERY helpful for a newbie!
My pleasure!
Thank you for your time.
My pleasure!
No thank you Ms beautiful😍👌🏽
Great video. Thank you sir.
Thank you! My pleasure!
Excellent video, Jummy. Easy to understand. Thank you so much. Heinz Imhof, Keller TX.
Thank you!
The best simpleforward explanation. I already followed checked continuity at the controller and connections are open. I will try to fix the issues soon.
Thanks you
Thank you!
If i want to do mostly my own work, running lines and heads, who do I call to get a line tapped into the main? A plummer, or an irrigation person?
You don’t have to use one in Texas if you’re a home owner, but are supposed to follow all the regulations. A plumber or irrigator can do that for you?
Is the main shutoff valve to the house separate from the irrigation system?
Yes there should be a separate one for your irrigation system.
Great overview thank you!
Thank you!
Thanks for the info you help me alot I resolve my problem
So glad to hear!
Thanks the best video
Thank you!
A backflow is only required if you plan to leave the water lines open for irrigation correct? I plan just to turn on and off the lines when I need to water.
It all depends on your local and state laws. Where I'm at it is required for any permanent set up.
Hello Jimmy…. Your channel is very helpful. I have a backflow on my system, however the handles and nuts are rusted and will not turn. I sprayed WD40 & Silicone Lubricant on the rusted areas, but they still won’t move by hand. I tried channel locks as well, however I was concerned that if I apply too much pressure, then I would break the backflow assembly. Do you have any tips for getting the handles to move without damaging the backflow assembly? In advance, THANKS for your help!
No, I spray with wd40 and if that doesn’t work I have to turn off at the street. You can put a ball valve after the backflow and will have a way to turn it off in an emergency.
Very informative and helpful video. I have one question, shouldn’t the extra valve you show after the BVP be before the BVP? Between the main water line and BVP so you can do maintenance on the BVP like you mentioned? I’m planning on installing that additional valve.
Thank you, and yes on a new installation the ball valve would be before the backflow preventer. However with all the older systems many times they are placed after the backflow, usually because the handles have rusted off of the backflow and they need a way to turn the water off. So this is a very common configuration for older systems. Hope that helps. Have a great weekend!
@@sprinklerrepair4L yes that is helpful and good to know thank you for the quick response! I live in south east Texas so you know we just experienced near record low temps!
Great video! I want to learn how to install/troubleshoot/repair irrigation systems, where do I go to get training and get licensed by the state of Tx.?
If you’re in North Texas, this guy can help you....yelp.to/M1aadrmtieb
Amazing 🤩
Thank you!
I love this video so much. Just to be clear. I have the main water value from the city, main sprinkler valve going to sprinkler system, the Master value and the zone valves and of course backflow valve. Does the master valve need to be On or OFF position when using the controller zone water schedule? I hope I am saying this correctly.
If I understand your question, the controller has to turn the master valve on before any of the other valves works. But it doesn’t operate with any sort of manual handle. It’s just like any other valve in your yard, but it’s placed up right after the backflow as a safety in case one of the other valves go bad and are stuck open. Hope that helps.
@@sprinklerrepair4L Yes it does help, Thank you.
Great explanation and demonstration. My irrigation is on a separate meter from my house and the back flow valve is above ground. I have disconnected it and removed it for the winter. If I turn on my irrigation system with no incoming water,,will it do any damage? Or, will it simply open the valves and let any water remaining in the lines flow to the lowest point?
You can run them a few seconds to release pressure, but they are water cooled and will over heat and possibly fail if you turn them on for longer durations.
@@sprinklerrepair4L Thank you. Did not realize (1) that they generated heat or (2) that they are water cooled. Will proceed cautiously…if at all.
Great video, thanks! :)
My pleasure!
Hey great video. Could you please explain how to read the friction loss charts. Thanks for your help.
As water flows through anything there will be some loss based on friction. When you know the flow and pressure you can calculate the loss through Meter, Backflow, valves, and pipe. Here is a site that can help if you want to learn more. www.irrigation.org/IA/Resources/Tools-Calculators/IA/Resources/Tools-Calculators.aspx
Thanks for this! Any troubleshooting advice for rainbird esp-lx error “no module installed” error. I have three installed.
John Almquist I would call there Tech support. It’s free and they are pretty good at explaining all the possibilities. 800-724-6247
Great video thank you !!!
My pleasure!
Can you explain why the ball valve is after the back flow and not before it.
Ball valves were not required in the past, so most older systems don’t have one and the handles rust off of most of the DC. If you put a ball valve on before the DC you have to pull a permit and the costs sky rockets. If you put it past the back flow, a permit is not required and you can save up to 75% of the cost.
Is it better to have a master valve?
A MV acts as a safety mechanism in case any of your other valves fail open. When the controller turns of the last scheduled valve, it also turns off your MV and stops any valve that has failed. So yes, it is good to have a master valve.
Hey i have a main water line going around the house that feed yo other values how can i add sprinkler to that line with out interrupting those two
You would just T into it and add another valve.
Is there any way to find where sprinkler lines exist under my lawn without digging? I need to rototill some areas and would rather get the lines moved before I tear them into little pieces with heavy equipment.
Not unless you have a drawing or purchase an armada pro 400 and cut the pipes open and trace it with a valve finder…
This is a nice visual display! Thank you. I’m afraid a backflow device was not installed in my system. I did however find a pressure regulator. Is there any way to turn off the sprinkler system using that? I have a leak and need some help. Thank you!
No, unfortunately a pressure regulator will not turn off the irrigation system. U can always install a ball valve to turn the water off or have a backflow installed. I hope the best for you!
@@sprinklerrepair4L thank you very much. Very kind of you. What about a man made ball valve and a master valve before it? Is that a good solution?
@@popaki9484 yes both are good solutions.
@@sprinklerrepair4L thank you so much! ❤️
So backflow is the same as a check valve?
Yes, it can be. However, there are check valves and heads, valves, and other irrigation components that are not considered backflow. I North Texas a backflow would be considered a double check, or RPZ in most cases.
Thanks for this explanation! Questions. I noticed you turned just one of the handles on the back flow device, does it matter which one you turn to shut off the water flow? Also, is this what you do to turn off the water to the irrigation for winter? Thanks!
Yes, you only need to turn one of the handles off. Yes, newer systems have a pvc ball valve you can turn off the system, but if yours doesn’t, you turn off the backflow.
Great visual video, thank you. My valve box is full of water and the ground is wet around it. When I close the valves inside the box it dissipates from the inside of the valve box and the ground dries. Do you think the leak is in the valve or an underground pvc?
If I understand correctly, you are mechanically turning the valve off and on from the box. If i'm correct in my assumption, then yes you will see it leak as long as the bleed screw is open or the solenoid being open to a certain degree. I hope the best for you!
@@sprinklerrepair4L Yes because the ground outside close to the master valve is wet and the master valve has water in it. When I close the two valves from the master valve (one that leads to the city and the other to the sprinkler) the ground eventually dries inside the master valve and the ground outside the master valve dries too. Is the leak then somewhere on the ground where it is really wet and mushy?
@@arielrodriguez6980 I usually start at the wettest spot at the highest point of elevation as water goes down hill without pressure.
@@sprinklerrepair4L Thanks! it is fixed now. Turns out it was the pressure regulator that sits on top of the in line irrigation valve was lose.
gracias por la ayuda
De nada
My supply line is 3/4, should I keep that size to my back flow preventer and laterals or should I go 1"?
Depends on your pressure needs but to be safe I’d definitely go 1” on main and maybe 1” on lateral lines if you think you need more pressure
@@sprinklerrepair4L i have 65 PSI and 7 gallons per minute.
The line that supplies my house is 3/4 , from there to my back flow preventer or valves 1" and to my heads 3/4 or 1" also?
Good video
Thank you!
I like your videos.. how did you start in the business?
Thank you. I started by working on my own system, then getting my license, then started part time, then I’ll watch my own company several years after I had my license. I hope the very best for you!
I have a drip system on station 1 for flower bed and grass sprinkler for the back yard on another station. For some reason when station one goes on, it also triggers the back yard sprinkler. What is causing this? There are a total of 8 stations. The back yard keeps turning on with only the drip stations 1 and 8.
It sounds like the controller might be giving AC to both zones. If it was coming on with all stations it would be a bad valve on the zone that is running when it shouldn't.
@sprinklerrepair4L thanks. I switched the solenoid and it was back to normal.
Hi Jimmy
I have an issue trying to figure out.🤬 I found that the pressure was low in zone 3. I located the t fitting that had a crack in it. Replaced all fittings and left everything exposed- turned the water valve back on but in the am saw water in the hole. It seems the pressure is pushing water through the top of the sprinkler head that I replaced which is new. however when I manually test zone 3 pressure seems fine? 🤔 first I thought it was just excess water in the line but after 5 min. I see the water drip down the sprinkler head. Could I possibly have another break somewhere else?
mick brown if I’m understanding correctly the head continues to leak when the controller has it off? If so, that is indicative of a bad valve most of the time...here’s a video on how to change out the guts... th-cam.com/video/Y-SzmZZ2VUk/w-d-xo.html
4L Irrigation Repair thank you very much for the quick reply I just watched the video and I believe that’s probably the only thing that I did not test or check out was the solenoid or the actual valve in the box I will do that this evening! Thank you from Richmond Texas! Stay safe!😷👍
This helped me so much thank you so much but why didn’t you turn on the sprinkler
There was no water hooked up. It was just a display.
@@sprinklerrepair4L oh ok sorry
does the backflow have to be raised and does it leak water? Pertaining to the master valve, do you really need it? yo didnt go into much detail as far as the function and purpose for it
You'd have to read the manual on your brand and type of backflow but many are required to be a certain height. A master valve is a safety to stop the loss of water in case one of your other valves go bad. It's not needed to run your system though. If you install a new system in Texas you are required to have one. If you have a valve that goes bad and is running 24/7, if you have a MV it will only allow water to the other valves when the controller is running, thus saving lots of water and $$$.
@@sprinklerrepair4L Ahh ok. So, for a typical setup to home, the proper order is as follows: Home - shutoff valve - back flow preventer - master valve (if a new system) - irrigation heads. This is correct right? I didn't add the Y restrainer before backflow because in Texas it is no longer required.
@@ShyRage1 yes, proper order on a new installation, and you’d have zone valves after MV & before heads
@@sprinklerrepair4L nice!! Thank you for the information and explaining everything thoroughly.
Hey, Jimmy. I want to do a manual test on all of my valves. If I have a master valve on my system, do I need to manually open the MV solenoid before I can manually test any others?
Yes, exactly. If for some reason it’s not opening manually, you can put the master valve wire in zone one and set it to one run an hour or how much time you need, and then manually test them.
@@sprinklerrepair4L Thanks a lot! I appreciate the speedy reply!!
@@sprinklerrepair4L Sorry to bother again. However, I believe I'm having a controller issue. I have a Hunter X-Core and It seems every couple of weeks my controller is resetting the time and date on it's own. Run times, start times and watering days are unaffected but of course when the date resets, the controller loses the day of the week, which inturn, throws off my watering days. When it does that, it also seems to skip a couple of zones on the days that it does water. Also, sometimes when trying to do a manual run at the controller, when I switch the selector to manual, the screen reads "error". I've done a factory reset as per the owner's manual instructions and it still does the same thing. All ohm and voltage readings are in range but due to the issues I'm having, do you think I need a new controller?
@@frankieportillo2366 probably do need a controller. If you want to be sure call Hunter Support and they will walk you through everything and tell you if u need anew controller
@@sprinklerrepair4L Thank you for your time, sir! Keep the awesome videos coming!! They are a great help!!!
So I have 11 zones in my system. My system runs off of a shallow well with a 2 Hp pump. System comes on fine with timer and works great until it reaches zone # 8. At that point pressure drops dramatically in zone #8 and only a small stream comes from one or two of that zones heads. I then go to my well pump and crack the threaded bleeder on top of the impeller housing. air bubbles will then come out and within a minute or two zone #8 will pressurize and come to life. The system will then finish off the remaining watering cycle without a hitch. Next day this same problem will repeat. What might I check in my system? Thanks
Sorry pumps are outside my expertise.
I have a zone that continuously runs while the others run also. I have replaced the zone but still have the same problem. I’m thinking maybe it’s my controller. Any help would be appreciated thanks!
That can certainly happen, turn on one zone that is not stuck on, and then turn your multi meter to AC and put one probe on the common and one probe on the zone that is stuck on. If that zone has AC going to it, when it is not turned on, then you know it’s the controller. If you don’t have a multi meter switch the wire of the zone that is stuck on with another wire. If that zone stops watering in the other zone starts watering all the time, it is your controller. If that zone still waters all the time after you switched the wire, it is the valve.
Good day. With regards to the PBV, which I need to replace mine (Febco 365-1), I just saw a video in which they indicate that the PBV needs to be 12 inches above the highest emission point. Could you explain what that means? Thanks
I'll try....in order for it to work correctly it needs to be 12" above the highest head or emission point. So, if you have a 24" riser in your flower bed and that is your highest point on your system, it will need to be somewhere on your property that elevation brings it up or you'll need to increase the height so it is at least 12" above that point.
@@sprinklerrepair4L Thanks. I wasn't sure if a faucet would fall under the category. I know those cold Feb days here in TX. Great channel and thanks for the response.
Any water coming from your irrigation lines.
@@sprinklerrepair4L 🤨🤨😘😘😘😘
Hello, I have a question about my irrigation system. My sprinkler system stopped working. There is no water going to the solonoid valves. I have already checked the back flow system and there is water running through. Any help is appreciated.
That’s a tough one, usually someone has installed a ball valve somewhere along the way and it is turned off. If that’s not the case then it could be some sort of blockage. I will say that is rare. The only way to trace it out is to go 10 feet up on your main line and cut it and see if you have pressure if you do you go 10 more feet up and do the same thing until you find the area that is blocked. Obviously you will have to repair every time you do a cut or drill a hole to see if water is flowing at that point.I hope the best for you!
how to order
So we turned off both handles on our backflow device, but now we're having a hard time getting one of them turned back on. Any ideas? Do we need to turn off the water at our meter to get out back on?
I would soak it in wd 40 and make sure you are using something that will grab the stem and not just wear it down. Might need vise grips.
Can water to the house be turned off and the sprinkler water left on? Would leave for some months but want to keep plants in the garden alive. Thanks.
Most system split off of the main, so unless you have a separate meter for your irrigation, there probably isn’t a way to turn off the water to the house and leave the irrigation on.
@@sprinklerrepair4L That clears up any illusions it would be simple or “do it yourself”. Thanks again.
My home don’t have the shut off valve like that .I have to shut off main water one
Unfortunately, if you have a break in your irrigation you will have to turn off the water to your home until it’s repaired.
I can't find mine.
The problem that I'm having here is that all the valves are buried below ground with no markers. I have 4 zones that are not responding to the controller and I can not locate any of them. It's very frustrating since replacing a solenoid or repairing the electrical line is fairly simple.
Agreed..you can rent a valve finder from an irrigation supply store and find your valves so when this happens you can make the repair.
That cut off valve should be before the backflow if you're going to do maintenance on the system... I'm no plumber, but that seems like common sense.
Yes on an installation that is correct. However in order not to pull a permit on existing systems, many people opt to install past the back flow.
@@sprinklerrepair4L didn't know that, good to know, thanks!
Hello Mr Jimmy I found this information priceless!!
I have a few more questions, I live really close to Keller, do you have a phone number or office?
I used to have my phone number on these post but to be honest, I couldn’t handle the volume of calls.
Your welcome to look up my business and give me a call or email though...
that looks NOTHING like my set up.
Hey man are you hiring?
It’s kind of late in the year for us to hire, but we will be the spring.
THANK YOU!! I’ve watched a few videos that left me as confused as I was at the beginning but you explained everything beautifully.