Thanks so much! None of my 5 zones would turn on so I used your advise and found one of the white wires came out of the big bundle so I reattached and now all are working!
@@SprinklerWarehouseone of my zones doesn't work. When I turn the valve manually I see water at the valve but the sprinkler heads still don't work. Does this mean faulty valve?
Sometimes it will not open the solenoid even with good batteries. Since then, I now only use three 9V batteries in series to pop my solenoid which produces 24V-28V.
I can turn sprinklers on at the panel and all stations work normally. When I use the remote, which has a new battery and makes its normal beeping sounds, nothing happens. Any ideas?
I have had the valve replaced. There are 8 impact pulse on the zone. I have good water pressure and I have one head that won't stay up. It comes up and then goes back down. I have replaced the head 3 times, any advice? I AM STUCK.
You need to add one more possibility to the troubleshooting guide here. At the 5:00 mark, when you perform this test, what happens when you get a resistance reading that jumps around between zero and 200, never settling into a narrow range within a few ohms?
If I run zone 1 from the controller, I get power at 1&2 (with multimeter). Only zone 1 pops up. If I run zone 2, only 2 gets power but doesn't pop up. Is my system haunted or cursed 😭. *Edit* Y'all, I figured it out. There was a failed splice in the control wire in the valve box for zone one. This was affecting the master as well as 1 & 2.
If it's clicking, the solenoid is working. Remove the three assembly screws from thre valve body, pull the "guts" out, inspect the diaphragm, clean and reinstall. Assuming it's just a small particle under the solenoid plunger causing the problem, you can be up and running in less than 10 minutes w/o buying a new valve. So easy a sprinkler guy could do it!
@ 2:00 + if the valve is staying on, it's usually due to a faulty diaphragm or grit within the valve structure,… and either grit needs to be cleaned out, or, the diaphragm needs to be replaced.
@@SprinklerWarehouse For Chart 4, leak from lowest sprinkler on zone: 'head of water' is going to leak out after the valve is turned off, nothing necessarily amiss with the diaphragm,….. and so, as you know (right?), the sprinkler body(pop up for example) should have a check valve, or, a check valve placed in the line near that sprinkler to prevent 'head of water' outflow after valve shut off. Yes?
I have 5 zones on my irrigation system. I can run 1 & 2 &5 by itself with no problem. When I turn on zone 3 or 4, zone 5 comes on too. What is the problem?
I have had both a small rock and a stick stuck in a valve forcing it open. Apparenty construction debris. Also have seen a leak right at the valve which within 10 minutes or so shorts the soleniod and opens the valve.
Thanks for great video....what happens if 1 zone is running low pressure....all heads won't pop up all the way....what should be changed? Thanks in advance...
I just replaced an anti shipon valve. I failed to mark the wiring, but have I’dd it’s red wire in the box. I only have 1 station. Red wire and common I get that. When everything is wired and I’m ready to test the valve manually from the box does the water on the valve need to be off. The valve works when I turn it on manually on the valve itself because it’s new. But to test it in manual mode from the box do I close everything on the valve? My wires are also a mess. Very weathered and some of the plastic on almost all of the is disintegrated. I’m I making any sense? Any suggestions 😞
The sprinkler valve does need to be closed by hand so that you can test it electronically with the manual setting on your controller because those are 2 different methods of turning on the valve.as for the wiring you might need to just run new wires.
Assuming water is going to the valve, sounds like a possible blockage in the valve housing. The main valve part has input(s) and output(s) as well as the solenoid. Make sue those are clear.
Does it operate normally from the controller/timer? If it is, check if you've opened the Master Valve all the way, assuming you have one, along with the flow control at both MV and Zone Valve. Sounds like a valve issue - disassemble the diaphragm, flush any possible debri and replace the guts.
Haha! Just replace the valve.. in every case talk about Overkill. Trust me. most the time you just need to replace the solenoid if that's the issue not the whole valve. What a waste of money he's recommending.
There's more profit in selling you the whole value than an $11 solenoid off of eBay. Replacing the valve=1 hour of work. Replacing the solenoid=10 minutes.
Basic, elemental tutorial designed to sell stuff he sells. Some of his advice is just plain wrong. All of the tests done by his fancy high priced tester can be done with any basic volt/resistence meter.
Don't take this guy too literally. He works in a warehouse and does not know what he's talking about. Hire a licensed irrigator and have your system checked at least annually.
He shows his lack of field experience by opining that replacing the whole valve when just the solenoid is bad is best. NO! Replacing a solenoid is a 5 minute job. Installing a new valve requires about an hour. If the valve itself is bad..do not remove the entire valve, just remove three screws and install new "guts" from a new valve...no pvc work required.
THE best video on this subject. Just watch this and you should be able to fix more than 90% of the problems. Good job.
Get a load of this guy, he’s freaking hilarious! Such a good info video. I wish they where all like this.
Thanks so much! None of my 5 zones would turn on so I used your advise and found one of the white wires came out of the big bundle so I reattached and now all are working!
Excellent! We are glad this worked.
@@SprinklerWarehouseone of my zones doesn't work. When I turn the valve manually I see water at the valve but the sprinkler heads still don't work. Does this mean faulty valve?
Repair by Replacement. Great sales video.
Thanks for starting out your video with a potential valve issue. Every other videos starts with a solenoid issue.
Very clear and easy to understand video, Adrian. Thank you.
Absolutely FANTASTIC video, exactly what I was looking for, thanks!
Excellent tutorial. Thanks for sharing!
Good, clear instruction however the background music is very distracting. Please remove it.
Ahhh paying attention hurts with other sounds.
Is there a video for trouble shooting electronics for the old style dial rain bird controller? Thx.
Sometimes it will not open the solenoid even with good batteries. Since then, I now only use three 9V batteries in series to pop my solenoid which produces 24V-28V.
I can turn sprinklers on at the panel and all stations work normally. When I use the remote, which has a new battery and makes its normal beeping sounds, nothing happens. Any ideas?
Awesome video, thank you so much for the excellent presentation!
Our pleasure!
I have had the valve replaced. There are 8 impact pulse on the zone. I have good water pressure and I have one head that won't stay up. It comes up and then goes back down. I have replaced the head 3 times, any advice? I AM STUCK.
Good Info i wish resolve my problem
great video!!!
You need to add one more possibility to the troubleshooting guide here. At the 5:00 mark, when you perform this test, what happens when you get a resistance reading that jumps around between zero and 200, never settling into a narrow range within a few ohms?
I had that issue today, thats a worn solenoid.
@@acunchevy54 Yes, time to replace.
If I run zone 1 from the controller, I get power at 1&2 (with multimeter). Only zone 1 pops up. If I run zone 2, only 2 gets power but doesn't pop up. Is my system haunted or cursed 😭.
*Edit* Y'all, I figured it out. There was a failed splice in the control wire in the valve box for zone one. This was affecting the master as well as 1 & 2.
What if a valve just clicks? First time seeing this problem. Wiring is correct.
Hello, most of the times it is the solenoid. For further assistance we ask that you contact us at 281.500.9800
If it's clicking, the solenoid is working. Remove the three assembly screws from thre valve body, pull the "guts" out, inspect the diaphragm, clean and reinstall. Assuming it's just a small particle under the solenoid plunger causing the problem, you can be up and running in less than 10 minutes w/o buying a new valve. So easy a sprinkler guy could do it!
I had to like because of "later irrigator"
Thank you
@ 2:00 + if the valve is staying on, it's usually due to a faulty diaphragm or grit within the valve structure,… and either grit needs to be cleaned out, or, the diaphragm needs to be replaced.
Correct, below we have provided our article on Valve Troubleshooting Guide
school.sprinklerwarehouse.com/parts-repair/troubleshooting-chart-valves/
@@SprinklerWarehouse For Chart 4, leak from lowest sprinkler on zone: 'head of water' is going to leak out after the valve is turned off, nothing necessarily amiss with the diaphragm,….. and so, as you know (right?), the sprinkler body(pop up for example) should have a check valve, or, a check valve placed in the line near that sprinkler to prevent 'head of water' outflow after valve shut off. Yes?
I have 5 zones on my irrigation system. I can run 1 & 2 &5 by itself with no problem. When I turn on zone 3 or 4, zone 5 comes on too. What is the problem?
I have had both a small rock and a stick stuck in a valve forcing it open. Apparenty construction debris. Also have seen a leak right at the valve which within 10 minutes or so shorts the soleniod and opens the valve.
Merhaba, selonoid 24VDC de çalışır mı? yoksa 24VAC mi olmalı?
24
thanks
Thanks for great video....what happens if 1 zone is running low pressure....all heads won't pop up all the way....what should be changed? Thanks in advance...
He answered that in the video. Check the valve.
I just replaced an anti shipon valve. I failed to mark the wiring, but have I’dd it’s red wire in the box. I only have 1 station. Red wire and common I get that. When everything is wired and I’m ready to test the valve manually from the box does the water on the valve need to be off. The valve works when I turn it on manually on the valve itself because it’s new. But to test it in manual mode from the box do I close everything on the valve? My wires are also a mess. Very weathered and some of the plastic on almost all of the is disintegrated. I’m I making any sense? Any suggestions 😞
The sprinkler valve does need to be closed by hand so that you can test it electronically with the manual setting on your controller because those are 2 different methods of turning on the valve.as for the wiring you might need to just run new wires.
My Rainbird valve doesn’t turn on manually turning the solenoid, the sprinklers don’t pop up, just low flow. What should I do? Thanks in advance
Assuming water is going to the valve, sounds like a possible blockage in the valve housing. The main valve part has input(s) and output(s) as well as the solenoid. Make sue those are clear.
Does it operate normally from the controller/timer? If it is, check if you've opened the Master Valve all the way, assuming you have one, along with the flow control at both MV and Zone Valve. Sounds like a valve issue - disassemble the diaphragm, flush any possible debri and replace the guts.
@@Adam-dn5oc yeeeaaaahhhh all that went over the guys head. Call a tech my guy you need to replace the valve..
99% of the time it's a break in the lateral line.
Or you need a better controller who detects automatically which valve causes the problem, no ? :)
Later Irrigator! 😂 🐊 💦
Haha! Just replace the valve.. in every case talk about Overkill. Trust me. most the time you just need to replace the solenoid if that's the issue not the whole valve. What a waste of money he's recommending.
There's more profit in selling you the whole value than an $11 solenoid off of eBay. Replacing the valve=1 hour of work. Replacing the solenoid=10 minutes.
Basic, elemental tutorial designed to sell stuff he sells. Some of his advice is just plain wrong. All of the tests done by his fancy high priced tester can be done with any basic volt/resistence meter.
Don't take this guy too literally. He works in a warehouse and does not know what he's talking about. Hire a licensed irrigator and have your system checked at least annually.
Sound to me his advice is sound... besides ... who wants to pay some tech nowadays for something we can fix ourselves?
He shows his lack of field experience by opining that replacing the whole valve when just the solenoid is bad is best. NO! Replacing a solenoid is a 5 minute job. Installing a new valve requires about an hour. If the valve itself is bad..do not remove the entire valve, just remove three screws and install new "guts" from a new valve...no pvc work required.
We don’t all have your fancy multimeter and of course they’re all a bit different. Better more common explaination would be nice
Multimeters are $30 and come with directions. If you can't follow this explanation, best call a technician.
Thank you,