So I was minding my own business and came across your comment about the "Ship of Theseus" and that sent me down a rabbit hole lol. It is a good thought experiment. 🙂
@@lukerickert5203 Do you have any documentation on the spindle of the schaublin? I will definitely change the bearing some day but think to go for the tapered roller bearing thing which almost everyone does. But if you have a better idea, let me know :)
Lavoro davvero pregevole. E, ciò che lo contraddistingue fra tanti, è averlo fatto con piccole macchine SENZA controllo numerico. Questo denota grande conoscenza, capacità e valore. Bravo davvero bravo.
Well I see you like to make a work of art out of your projects. I can certainly appreciate the attention to detail that you put into your projects. I'm more to the point and have to getr done so that I can use the machine to make the next round of parts. I loved the travel dial built into the apron. I applaud the idea for the use of bearings on the lead screw. Which is better thrust bearings or the chosen angular contact bearings ? Both are suitable for this application. I think the answer lies in the sealing. Thrust bearings are unsealed, whereas the angular contact bearings are sealed. Swarf is some sneaky stuff and gets everywhere. I'll definitely perform this upgrade on my mini lathe. Thx for the idea. Using the large cutter for all the surface machining, including the bevels, would have saved machine and tool change time ? How are you going to protect the bearing block against rusting ? Why not just turn an outside thread the end of the lead screw and inside thread the extension. Use a class 3 or 2 thread to prevent looseness and still use the shoulder to ensure straightness. Since you are turning the thread you can control the class of the thread all the way to the point of slight interference. Consider adding a handle on the end of the lead screw you're already there and the end result gives you needed longitudinal precision. Thx for taking the time to make this video and sharing.
The coolest thing about that switch is not the lever, but the fact that you could rig it up to your carriage stop. (The lever is cool - being able to shut off power feed (ok, the whole lathe even if that's how we have to do it) would be worth the price of admission.
Sorry to say, but it's not for a power feed ;) That would be awesome too, but I think if I ever go the way of a power cross feed, I will do it with an electric motor.
Definitely not me just watching this as I finished binging all of your videos.... But if I had, great work! It's amazing to see how you have improved your setup over time and be able to make better parts with each improvement!
Based upon the bearings chosen it is presumably some form of control (low rpm/ low cycle application), possibly the forward/ off/ reverse hand control found on much larger lathes. Edit: later confirmed in comments below to be on-off but not direction change.
Excellent video, gonna have to do this for my own mini lathe, was looking around for some instructions and this is just perfect! Can't wait to see the end for the hex rod.
Seems to me that buying a mini-lathe is a test of your worthiness to do machining. The first test is "Use the minilathe to make parts to make the minilathe useable - extra points for climbing into a bucket and picking yourself up by the handle". Makes me want to really go and get one, which I will do the moment I move into a place with a suitable workshop.
Almost exactly ;) As I have to use the sewing machine motor electroni, I unfortunately just can switch it on and off. But it's possible to adjust the spindle speed with the lever. The motor direction must be selected by pressing a button. That's a bit sad but anyway.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter If it's a DC motor you can easily make left-off-right feature using simple 3 position switch between electronic controller from sewing machine and motor. After that you will just press direction button once to just deliever current to switch, variable speed control should work anyway. Looking forward for next video ;)
Yes that's right. I'm very thankful to have these tools. Especially the milling machine which was a gift from a viewer. I should have said lazy mans rotary table ;)
The way the material at 8:35 breaks a chip, it looks a whole lot like cast iron. Cast iron tends to form those little grey flakes that get everywhere, and the surface finish looks the part.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter From what I have learned on Keith Fenner's channel, cast iron chips are very abrasive to the ways of lathes and mills, so be very careful to clean them thoroughly after.
Power cross feed coming? I have recently done a similar bearing mod for my mini-lathe lead screw because it was impossible to align enough to not bind, but I found skinny bearings to fit in the existing blocks. I'm sure they will not last long but I don't do hard work
@@WeCanDoThatBetter That motor you upgraded to might run on a small vfd and one of those will do fwd/stop/rev with inputs from a switch Edit: Nevermind I had to look and they are different. Maybe though that controller has some switch inputs you could use to do the direction change without the button
@@WeCanDoThatBetter That's a shame, I installed a VFD on mine and I love it. I wired it to make use of the original control buttons and it's very nice to use. Yes there is a ramp up time but who cares it's not like you will be cutting withing 1 second of turning on the lathe.
Power switch on the carriage like with the big machines I assume? Stellar work, honestly, such craftsmanship and attention to detail is almost wasted on such a machine. But it's a pleasure to behold regardless.
Thank you very much for your kind comment! Yes, you've got it. It is for switching the machine on like on big ones. And yes, sometimes it feels like wasted to put that much effort in but hm, now I've started...
4:25 you're spinning that counterbore WAY too fast! That's why you're getting chatter! These are form tools, and form tools are to be turned at a very slow SFPM. 6:35 why didn't you use your face mill??? 8:30 the smoke is from oil that has soaked into the cast iron.
Thanks for your comment! 1 - Unfortunately my drill press can't run slower than that. So I couldn't got rid of all the chattering. 2 - As I had to remove a little bit more material I thought an endmill would work better. But for the finishing cut the facemill would have been the better choice. Don't know why I didn't chose it :) 3 - That makes sense, thanks!
Ok, very interesting. How will you rotate that new hex-bar ? From the screw-bar, with gears, 1:1 ratio ??? I believe that this new hex-bar will be used for automatic cylinder cutting, without any more stress ( and wear ) for the screw-bar itself ... and also for automatic facing and ( more important ) parting, isn'it true ?
Cool upgrade thanks for sharing. The only thing I'd like to see you do in future is keep your fingers and hands away from the table of your drill press you scare me if your work slips you will have an extra hole in your hand
Thanks for your kind comment! And also thanks for your warm safety advice. I will keep that in mind. I definitely need my hands, so better to take no risks. Thx
Great video, nice upgrade to your lathe. I was surprised that the lead screw had a plain bearing on the drive side. Are those new bearings self-leveling?
Thanks for your comment! What do you mean with self leveling? Both sides have to have the same hight so that there are no bending forces in the lead screw.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter That was exactly what I wanted to know, there are self-leveling or self-adjusting bearing that can adjust to axis that are a little bit out of alignment.
Great! I'm learning with your videos. I saw some people criticizing here. I use to ear the same shit sometimes about my projects. Since them don't pay my bills, I don't give a shit for what they think for. You really waste your time answering this annoying people. Go ahead!
Tidy work as usual. Looking forward to your feed project. Regarding the blacking, consider getting a small propane torch. You can heat up parts and dunk them in motor oil bath for that authentic heat-treated look.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter I believe hot bluing is a specific salt bath; commonly seen on guns. While blacking with oil is just a caking of hydrocarbons on surface. You have that on black machine screws and parts that were heat treated but not ground after.
@@varjagg- Now that's a damn good application of used engine oil. Curious I didn't remember that one... I use old engine oil for wood treatment, burning (for heat). Even on my tractor, mixed with diesel, etc. But somehow I forgot that one. ;-)
Mich erstaunt die Standfestigkeit des Fräsers in der recht kleinen Maschine. Ich hätte erwartet dass da sofort die Zähne ausbrechen. Welcher Fräser bzw Hersteller ist das?
Du meinst auf der Proxxon Fräsmaschine? Ja, das ist eigentlich erstaunlich, so wie das rasselt und rattert. Mit 5mm und 6mm Fräsern habe ich bislang kaum Probleme. Problematischer ist es bei kleinen Fräsern mit 2mm und 3mm und bei Graviersticheln. Da habe ich leider schon einige gekillt :/ Ich verwende VHM Fräser oder HSS PM nach Möglichkeit. Hersteller meist untere Mittelklasse bei Toolineo oder so.
Yes, that's it. The only thing, unfortunately I cant't reverse the spindle with the lever due to the motor controller. But I think it should be useful anyway.
The Bar is probably going to be used for starting and stopping the lathe like a lot of Professional lathes have or even a brake mechanism. He is not letting on so we will just have to wait and see.
Hi,I've certainly sent you a comment, quite a while ago. Anyway I'm from Michigan USA. For your screw feed device, is better for "THRUST BEARINGS" The other lower bar that you are installing? With the intention to create "Cross Feed". If so, good luck friend...
Hi and thanks for your comment! The bearing I used is a double row angular contact bearing. This can take both radial and axial forces so no additional thrust bearing is needed. It is all in this one bearing.
My guess for the hex rod is a lever to operate the spindle start/stop (and possibly reverse?) switch which travels with the carriage. Great feature - I'll be watching closely.. By the way, you mention "dial pins" - I think you're referring to "dowel pins".
Hi, yes that's absolutely right;) A start stop lever will be installed next. And thanks for the hint on dial/dowel pins :) What are dial pins used for?
@@WeCanDoThatBetter The only use I can think of for a dial pin would be to secure the dial on a clock by ancient methods, only they mostly call those taper pins. Dowel pins are used exactly as you have shown - as an accurate location device. Subscribed and looking forward to your control lever solution. I have wanted to do the same for my old Emco Maximat Standard 10, but no-one gave me a round tewit 😉.
I am not sure about "a poor man's rotary table" but it certainly might be a 'one armed' machinist after the cutter grabs that stock and pulls your hands into that cutter! I admire the design just not some of the execution.
Thanks for your comment! Oh yes, that was definitely not the fine way and potentially dangerous. Was happy that everything went well. Mostly if you now something is dangerous you are extra concentrated and aware and when you think nothing can happen and it's safe, it hits you as in my last video.
As of yesterday, when I found out. Adding ball bearings to the leadscrew of my lathe became priority. For some unknown (Chinese motive). The leadscrew on my lathe cannot not turn freely. IF the blocks are properly tighten! Apparently that's the reason why they both came "loose" from the factory. Let alone the FACT that the left block was "hand grinded" on a bench grinder, from the factory! Absolutely appalling. Ball bearings on both ends should solve the case.
Kills me watching you start holes with small diameter long drills, with only a hand punched center. Want to improve oversized out of round drilled holes, and save time in less rework? Spend a minute or 2 extra, and chuck your center drill as short as possible in your press, and start your holes with that. Then flat bottom them with a close to size endmill, as they wont deflect. Once you have a 1/2" or so ish deep perpendicular, pilot, your drills wont deflect or lead off, and improve accuracy and hole quality, roundness and trueness out of the gate. Improving components material quality doesn't gain much, if your not reducing mating actuating pieces tolerances, to as minimal as will still allow movement without interference, but also finding ways to ensure square and perpendicularity of opposing axis, as well as 2 piece actuators from each other, and concentric centers of bearings. Not trying to be a back seat driver, I enjoy your content, just trying to help remind of all the critical areas that need TLC and all the ways those areas TLC needs love in.
At this point I'm convinced you want to get to the bottom of that "Ship of Theseus" thing with your lathe, and I'm so here for it.
I had to look that up :D It seems like I did ;)
So I was minding my own business and came across your comment about the "Ship of Theseus" and that sent me down a rabbit hole lol. It is a good thought experiment. 🙂
I am waiting for the double row cylindrical roller bearing ala Schaublin :)
@@lukerickert5203 Do you have any documentation on the spindle of the schaublin? I will definitely change the bearing some day but think to go for the tapered roller bearing thing which almost everyone does. But if you have a better idea, let me know :)
the lathe of theseus
Ive been watching mini lathe videos for months and your stuff stands out like crazy! amazing work.
Lavoro davvero pregevole. E, ciò che lo contraddistingue fra tanti, è averlo fatto con piccole macchine SENZA controllo numerico. Questo denota grande conoscenza, capacità e valore. Bravo davvero bravo.
Well I see you like to make a work of art out of your projects. I can certainly appreciate the attention to detail that you put into your projects. I'm more to the point and have to getr done so that I can use the machine to make the next round of parts.
I loved the travel dial built into the apron.
I applaud the idea for the use of bearings on the lead screw. Which is better thrust bearings or the chosen angular contact bearings ? Both are suitable for this application. I think the answer lies in the sealing. Thrust bearings are unsealed, whereas the angular contact bearings are sealed. Swarf is some sneaky stuff and gets everywhere.
I'll definitely perform this upgrade on my mini lathe. Thx for the idea.
Using the large cutter for all the surface machining, including the bevels, would have saved machine and tool change time ?
How are you going to protect the bearing block against rusting ?
Why not just turn an outside thread the end of the lead screw and inside thread the extension. Use a class 3 or 2 thread to prevent looseness and still use the shoulder to ensure straightness. Since you are turning the thread you can control the class of the thread all the way to the point of slight interference.
Consider adding a handle on the end of the lead screw you're already there and the end result gives you needed longitudinal precision.
Thx for taking the time to make this video and sharing.
Très très beau travail je ne cesse de regarde tes vidéo . En tout cas tu es tes pro
Merci beaucoup mon ami!
Travail magnifique et video explicite. Un GRAND MERCI de Normandie!
Merci beacoup mon ami!
The coolest thing about that switch is not the lever, but the fact that you could rig it up to your carriage stop. (The lever is cool - being able to shut off power feed (ok, the whole lathe even if that's how we have to do it) would be worth the price of admission.
I'm betting the bottom rod is for a power feed for the cross slide. Well done!
That's my guess
My though as well.
Sorry to say, but it's not for a power feed ;) That would be awesome too, but I think if I ever go the way of a power cross feed, I will do it with an electric motor.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter that's a good point. I'll have to think on it a little longer than
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Now I'm really intrigued!
Definitely not me just watching this as I finished binging all of your videos....
But if I had, great work! It's amazing to see how you have improved your setup over time and be able to make better parts with each improvement!
Thank you very much for your kind comment!
very good work supported by very sophisticated equipment
Thanks!:)
I need those calipers! 😮 great work!
;) Thanks
Great build video! Really like the cool mini lathe improvements
Thank you very much! I really do appreciate that.
Super!
Nice to have you here :) Thanks for your comment! I really like your work, you do an excellent job on your lathe!
Great video. Very interested in your intention for the hex rod.
As always, great attention to detail on your project.
Thanks for sharing.
Thank you very much for your kind comment!
Based upon the bearings chosen it is presumably some form of control (low rpm/ low cycle application), possibly the forward/ off/ reverse hand control found on much larger lathes. Edit: later confirmed in comments below to be on-off but not direction change.
Hope i can upgrade my mini lathe like you did, your videos are totally awesome. Great skill 👍👍
Thank you!
Beautiful work, accuracy incredible...
Thanks!
Excellent video, gonna have to do this for my own mini lathe, was looking around for some instructions and this is just perfect! Can't wait to see the end for the hex rod.
Thank you very much for your comment! I really do appreciate that!
Great job, thank you brother. You are so talented
Thank you very much. Very kind!
Seems to me that buying a mini-lathe is a test of your worthiness to do machining. The first test is "Use the minilathe to make parts to make the minilathe useable - extra points for climbing into a bucket and picking yourself up by the handle".
Makes me want to really go and get one, which I will do the moment I move into a place with a suitable workshop.
Awesome video❤🇧🇷😉👍👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Thanks!
Very good work. Well thought out.
Thanks
Complimenti tutto professionale
Mille grazie!
Not sure the bar is for, but I’m gonna have fun finding out 🥳
Edit added: the cliff hanger is strong on this one!
Haha :D Thank you;)
Thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks for your comment!
That is darn good machine work considering what you have to work with...
Thank you very much! I'm doing my best ;)
Bottom rod will be used to operate left-off-right switch for the lathe electric motor
Almost exactly ;) As I have to use the sewing machine motor electroni, I unfortunately just can switch it on and off. But it's possible to adjust the spindle speed with the lever. The motor direction must be selected by pressing a button. That's a bit sad but anyway.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter If it's a DC motor you can easily make left-off-right feature using simple 3 position switch between electronic controller from sewing machine and motor. After that you will just press direction button once to just deliever current to switch, variable speed control should work anyway.
Looking forward for next video ;)
Poor man! Hah, bro you have a lot of good tools. I wish I could come up with a milling machine. I can't even find a scrap mill. You are very blessed.
I really do enjoy your work.
Yes that's right. I'm very thankful to have these tools. Especially the milling machine which was a gift from a viewer. I should have said lazy mans rotary table ;)
Thank you very much!
absolute joy to watch
Thanks!
The way the material at 8:35 breaks a chip, it looks a whole lot like cast iron.
Cast iron tends to form those little grey flakes that get everywhere, and the surface finish looks the part.
Strange that it machines so smoky...
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Cast iron with oil impregnated in it.
@@heybabycometobutthead That make sense :)
@@WeCanDoThatBetter From what I have learned on Keith Fenner's channel, cast iron chips are very abrasive to the ways of lathes and mills, so be very careful to clean them thoroughly after.
Power cross feed coming? I have recently done a similar bearing mod for my mini-lathe lead screw because it was impossible to align enough to not bind, but I found skinny bearings to fit in the existing blocks. I'm sure they will not last long but I don't do hard work
Nice work as always!
Thank you very much! :)
Hex rod will be for starting the spindle in either forward or reverse with a handle mounted on the saddle.
Oh yes, that's pretty close ;)
Yes, my guess. Like by Weiler lathes ;)
it is a turning bar for automatic feeds ?
Not exactly;) Power feed would be nice, but it's for something different.
The mystery rod is probably for a lever to turn the spindle on like on big machines. Down forward, up reverse 👌
Yes you're right;) But I unfortunately can only switch on and off. Changing the direction I have to press a button.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter That motor you upgraded to might run on a small vfd and one of those will do fwd/stop/rev with inputs from a switch
Edit: Nevermind I had to look and they are different. Maybe though that controller has some switch inputs you could use to do the direction change without the button
@@WeCanDoThatBetter That's a shame, I installed a VFD on mine and I love it. I wired it to make use of the original control buttons and it's very nice to use. Yes there is a ramp up time but who cares it's not like you will be cutting withing 1 second of turning on the lathe.
Sehr gut gemacht!
Vielen Dank :)
Ok you got my attention. I will subscribe just to 👀 what else is coming. 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Hi, thank you very much and welcome! I really do appreciate your support;)!
Like every time, fantastic work !
Thank you very much!
Excellent job !
Great video as always !
Thank you!
nice job! maybe that will help relieve some of that vibration also
Thanks! You mean the new bearings?
@@WeCanDoThatBetter yep, and that guide bar. It just looks so much more sturdy now
Very good
Thanks!
Hi! Awesome stuff! Could you please share the details on your lathe maker and model?
Excellent work. What kind of lathe do you have? I love those dials.
Paul
Sehr gute Arbeit!
Dankeschön!
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Hallo, ich verfolge diesen Kanal schon sehr lange, da stellt sich mir die Frage: Was ist Dein Beruf/Ausbildung?
wow i love lathes too !
Power switch on the carriage like with the big machines I assume?
Stellar work, honestly, such craftsmanship and attention to detail is almost wasted on such a machine.
But it's a pleasure to behold regardless.
Thank you very much for your kind comment! Yes, you've got it. It is for switching the machine on like on big ones. And yes, sometimes it feels like wasted to put that much effort in but hm, now I've started...
Well done! :)
Thanks!
Ive been waiting for someone to attempt it on a mini lathe.. waiting to see the results
4:25 you're spinning that counterbore WAY too fast! That's why you're getting chatter! These are form tools, and form tools are to be turned at a very slow SFPM.
6:35 why didn't you use your face mill???
8:30 the smoke is from oil that has soaked into the cast iron.
Thanks for your comment! 1 - Unfortunately my drill press can't run slower than that. So I couldn't got rid of all the chattering.
2 - As I had to remove a little bit more material I thought an endmill would work better. But for the finishing cut the facemill would have been the better choice. Don't know why I didn't chose it :)
3 - That makes sense, thanks!
Ok, very interesting. How will you rotate that new hex-bar ? From the screw-bar, with gears, 1:1 ratio ??? I believe that this new hex-bar will be used for automatic cylinder cutting, without any more stress ( and wear ) for the screw-bar itself ... and also for automatic facing and ( more important ) parting, isn'it true ?
what kind of vice is on your milling machine?
great job ,i will like to see a video about your fly cutter and how you balance it if is home made
Thanks for your comment! I already made a video on that fly cutter. You can find it on my channel.
Quality work!
Thanks!
Perfekt ☆☆☆☆☆
Hello , great video , i have the same lathe and the same problem , can you tell please the reference of the bearing that you used , thanks.
Hi and thanks for your comment! The bearing I used is an 3801 12x21x7mm double row angular contact.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter thank you
08:30 cast iron
I think too. Was a little bit astonished by the fume. But that might be the oil embedded in the part.
Cool upgrade thanks for sharing. The only thing I'd like to see you do in future is keep your fingers and hands away from the table of your drill press you scare me if your work slips you will have an extra hole in your hand
Thanks for your kind comment! And also thanks for your warm safety advice. I will keep that in mind. I definitely need my hands, so better to take no risks. Thx
Great video, nice upgrade to your lathe. I was surprised that the lead screw had a plain bearing on the drive side. Are those new bearings self-leveling?
Thanks for your comment! What do you mean with self leveling? Both sides have to have the same hight so that there are no bending forces in the lead screw.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter That was exactly what I wanted to know, there are self-leveling or self-adjusting bearing that can adjust to axis that are a little bit out of alignment.
Great! I'm learning with your videos. I saw some people criticizing here. I use to ear the same shit sometimes about my projects. Since them don't pay my bills, I don't give a shit for what they think for. You really waste your time answering this annoying people. Go ahead!
:D Thank you so much! I really do appreciate your support! That's kind.
Is the hex bar to run the threading position indicator
That needs to be on the leadscrew
Nice idea, but it is for something else ;)
Tidy work as usual. Looking forward to your feed project.
Regarding the blacking, consider getting a small propane torch. You can heat up parts and dunk them in motor oil bath for that authentic heat-treated look.
Thanks for your comment! What you describe is hot bluing. I never really tried it out and hesitate to as it makes a lot of stinky oil smoke :)
@@WeCanDoThatBetter I believe hot bluing is a specific salt bath; commonly seen on guns. While blacking with oil is just a caking of hydrocarbons on surface. You have that on black machine screws and parts that were heat treated but not ground after.
@@varjagg- Now that's a damn good application of used engine oil. Curious I didn't remember that one... I use old engine oil for wood treatment, burning (for heat). Even on my tractor, mixed with diesel, etc. But somehow I forgot that one. ;-)
Mich erstaunt die Standfestigkeit des Fräsers in der recht kleinen Maschine. Ich hätte erwartet dass da sofort die Zähne ausbrechen. Welcher Fräser bzw Hersteller ist das?
Du meinst auf der Proxxon Fräsmaschine? Ja, das ist eigentlich erstaunlich, so wie das rasselt und rattert. Mit 5mm und 6mm Fräsern habe ich bislang kaum Probleme. Problematischer ist es bei kleinen Fräsern mit 2mm und 3mm und bei Graviersticheln. Da habe ich leider schon einige gekillt :/ Ich verwende VHM Fräser oder HSS PM nach Möglichkeit. Hersteller meist untere Mittelklasse bei Toolineo oder so.
Is that a little proxxon milling machine?
Yes it is.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter I'm thoroughly impressed with the work you got out of it.
Hex rod is for start/stop/rev on the carriage? If so, good call.
Yes, that's it. The only thing, unfortunately I cant't reverse the spindle with the lever due to the motor controller. But I think it should be useful anyway.
Beautiful work as always! Your accuracy is incredible. Could your 8mm hex bar be for a powered feed of some sort?
Thank you very much for your kind comment! I really do appreciate that. The hex bar is not for a power feed ;)
The Bar is probably going to be used for starting and stopping the lathe like a lot of Professional lathes have or even a brake mechanism. He is not letting on so we will just have to wait and see.
Will this be the world's first mini-lathe with power crossfeed? Beautiful job on the bearing blocks...as usual!
Thank you! It's not for power cross feed.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter I am intrigued!
I believe you are making a thread dial indicator
It's not for a threading dial ;)
Hi, Can you tell me what brand is the metal saw you have?
Thanks
Hi, the metal bandsaw is a Berg&Schmid PBS130. In the video of the saw arbor I showed it a little more.
You did a nice job on this. What brand of inserts are you using?
Thank you very much! I guess the polished aluminium inserts are Kyocera branded and the black for tough steel are Sandvik.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Thank you for the reply and the videos. I'll grab some when I get the chance.
زبردست
Extra rod for what purpose for self ?
Watch the next video to find out ;)
I'd say this will be for turning it on.
Exactly, you got it ;)
Hi,I've certainly sent you a comment, quite a while ago. Anyway I'm from Michigan USA. For your screw feed device, is better for "THRUST BEARINGS" The other lower bar that you are installing? With the intention to create "Cross Feed". If so, good luck friend...
Hi and thanks for your comment! The bearing I used is a double row angular contact bearing. This can take both radial and axial forces so no additional thrust bearing is needed. It is all in this one bearing.
My guess for the hex rod is a lever to operate the spindle start/stop (and possibly reverse?) switch which travels with the carriage. Great feature - I'll be watching closely..
By the way, you mention "dial pins" - I think you're referring to "dowel pins".
Hi, yes that's absolutely right;) A start stop lever will be installed next. And thanks for the hint on dial/dowel pins :) What are dial pins used for?
@@WeCanDoThatBetter The only use I can think of for a dial pin would be to secure the dial on a clock by ancient methods, only they mostly call those taper pins.
Dowel pins are used exactly as you have shown - as an accurate location device.
Subscribed and looking forward to your control lever solution. I have wanted to do the same for my old Emco Maximat Standard 10, but no-one gave me a round tewit 😉.
The bottom bar: forward - brake - reverse ?? 🤔
You are really close ;)
My lathe had a tiny nut and a lock screw for backlash in lead screw, that definitely looks better
Thanks. That's actually something. My lathe had nothing in this direction :)
What's the dimension of the spindle bore on this machine?
20mm I guess.
👍👍👍
VERY nice work!. Subbed here.
Thank you very much! I really do appreciate that!
Profesional tool
3801 2RS or 3201 2RS bearings? (21mm OD vs 32mm OD)
Hi, the 21mm ones.
Nice
One person's journey to turn a not-so-great lathe into an actually-pretty-good lathe.
:) Thanks!
رائع ❤❤❤❤
8:31 that is cast iron, dont recommend to breathe the particles, i think it is carcinogenic
Doesn't sound good. Thanks for the hint! I'm not sure anymore, but I think I wore a respirator while doing this. The fume looked suspect.
Bottom rod is for on , off switch
Exactly, video on this project is already out, you find it on the channel ;)
Fwd and Rev feed?
It's not for the feed. But that is something on my wishlist to: a quick way to reverse the feed to make thread cutting much easier.
I am not sure about "a poor man's rotary table" but it certainly might be a 'one armed' machinist after the cutter grabs that stock and pulls your hands into that cutter! I admire the design just not some of the execution.
Thanks for your comment! Oh yes, that was definitely not the fine way and potentially dangerous. Was happy that everything went well. Mostly if you now something is dangerous you are extra concentrated and aware and when you think nothing can happen and it's safe, it hits you as in my last video.
TOP ☆☆☆☆☆
That wobble looks so scary. I don't understand how lathing can still work like that.
You mean the wobbling by the imbalance of the workpiece in the beginning? Yes, that really sucks :) Have to put the machine on better feets perhaps.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter yes, that's exactly what I meant. Very impressed it still works. Love your videos.
Just watched this video, the lathe has a bad shake, lol !!!
how often do you get your nails done, how much and by who?
Please tell me what kind of lathe model do you have? Is this a Chinese machine? No?
you need to learn how to use "Cutting lubricants" and "bedding the lathe" to prevent the lathe jumping... otherwise nice ideas.
Sauber ☆☆☆☆☆
Danke :)
Your lathe is a rocking on camera..think u need to bolt it down...ya goofy m8te from Australia
Because of the imbalance of the work. Bolting it down would help. But I move the machine from time to time.
Cast iron. Don't breath the dust.
Thanks.
Autostop?
Thats a cool idea as well. But that's not what this rod is for ;)
As of yesterday, when I found out. Adding ball bearings to the leadscrew of my lathe became priority. For some unknown (Chinese motive). The leadscrew on my lathe cannot not turn freely. IF the blocks are properly tighten! Apparently that's the reason why they both came "loose" from the factory.
Let alone the FACT that the left block was "hand grinded" on a bench grinder, from the factory! Absolutely appalling. Ball bearings on both ends should solve the case.
Nice work, but why?
good question.. dunno.
Kills me watching you start holes with small diameter long drills, with only a hand punched center. Want to improve oversized out of round drilled holes, and save time in less rework? Spend a minute or 2 extra, and chuck your center drill as short as possible in your press, and start your holes with that. Then flat bottom them with a close to size endmill, as they wont deflect. Once you have a 1/2" or so ish deep perpendicular, pilot, your drills wont deflect or lead off, and improve accuracy and hole quality, roundness and trueness out of the gate. Improving components material quality doesn't gain much, if your not reducing mating actuating pieces tolerances, to as minimal as will still allow movement without interference, but also finding ways to ensure square and perpendicularity of opposing axis, as well as 2 piece actuators from each other, and concentric centers of bearings. Not trying to be a back seat driver, I enjoy your content, just trying to help remind of all the critical areas that need TLC and all the ways those areas TLC needs love in.