Hey guys, if you like the videos and want to support the channel , you can donate on patreon or paypal (Links in the description). If you want to donate some form of "equipment" you can contact me under "inventordonations@gmail.com". Best regards and thanks for your support, Gerolf
The post-apocalyptic inventor I must have missed something. When exactly was this apocalyptic state. I mean, you're from the future right? Is the apocalypse still to come?
Repairing things is never a waste of time, because even when you don't manage to actually repair something you almost always learn something that helps you further down the line
My Dad called it the KPD factor, he worked both in the space race and for major US electronic home market product companies. "KPD" was the "Knobs Per Dollar." The more knobs the more you could charge. As you noted many of the knobs, meters, etc. were really not needed. They also made up a lot of weird features like ACG (Automatic Gain Control) --- why would someone turn this off unless they lived on top of a transmitter tower. Our garage was an electronics lab, we had an old library "card catalog" (Libraries used to have these huge cabinets that held cards that were used to look up books, like an indexing system) but our was full of every receiving tube manufactured. 9 pin miniature, 8 pins large tubes, diode tubes, (I think the English speakers call them valves, like the valves in an internal combustion engine.) Trays of resistors all sorted by value, easy to find, tuning capacitors, etc. He would get old navy radios from the navy that were wired in series for the filaments to run on the odd voltage of a ship. Those tubes were impossible to find, plus the power supply would be difficult to make in those days. You would probably have to hand wire a transformer to get the right voltage. The days of AC hum, huge filter capacitors, the exploding rolled foil capacitors. And the favorite of all the B+ power. Now that would bite you! I liked seeing the anode of the picture tube, I assume back and white or monochrome, so only around 20,000 volts. The flyback transformers were noting to mess with (at least until high school, make a little two transistor oscillator, connect it to the low side of a transformer from the output transformer of a transistor radio, small wires, but it could step up a 9 volt DC battery to a pulsing 130 volts). Some of my projects I might take to school but never seemed to be allowed to take them home. I am glad I did not grow up today, I would have been on the dean's list for sure. You continue to show these radios we only dreamed of and you rattle off their names like you know how to pronounce the words. "Grundig" they were famous for a short wave radio you could receive ratio singles from around the world, we would listen to "Voice of America" (The American propaganda station, maybe it is still on the air) we did not call it propaganda because that is only what "other" countries did. I love your videos and thanks for going through all of the stuff so carefully, and I agree to be very careful around those filter capacitors, short them out with a screwdriver. I don't think they used bleeder resistors. And never touch that anode (Period) I would always short out the lead with two long screwdrivers, then once the anode was removed I would clip it to the ground of the chassis. So if someone plugged the thing in it would immediately short to ground. The picture tubs can build up a charge even after they have been disconnected so the anode of that picture tube should always be respected. Even after you believe it is completely discharged.
Speaking of vintage repair, I was working as a cable installer a couple years back. One customer had an old B&W RCA TV from 1962. The wood housing was beautiful, and matched the retro furniture. He restored the TV and had it working beautifully. I came and hooked up a 75 ohm to 300 ohm balun and connected it to a small DTA. A TV that originally received 12 channels now gets over 200.
I admire your tenacity and dexterity in disassembling that fiddly selector switch. As an initial measure, we gave suspect or crackly pots and switches a squirt of Servisol Super 10 while moving the control through its range of motion. That generally worked; if not, further disassembly or replacement was indicated.
You are true electronic repairman , no one will ever dare to do that with the switch now at days ,,, I have many years of avionics experience and many times we do all of that on switches contacts and many parts since there are no replacement available ,,,großartige Arbeit mit den Yamaha !!!!
You're an great teacher and you stay on topic. Thanks! Regardless of the apocalypse, I save $1000's shopping at second hand stores and yard sales while having fun repairing the items. It's extremely exciting watching junk turn into gold.
Nothing is a waste of time if you enjoy it, also you’re bang on with retro gaming, here in Australia I’ve noticed a lot of small companies starting to make arcade cabinets again with retro pie installed. Another educational video again. Thanks
when you took that switch apart... you just make me smile and remember that i did it the same many times. This is the right way and the hard way at the same time. Almost everybody uses the easy spray way which will not last long for sure
After many years in electronics r&d and having a father who did the same my preferred go to contact cleaner is a staedtler mars plastic eraser. It's none abrasive and very good for gold flashed connectors. Only if that does not work do I get something more aggressive. Good job though on the amp. I also like it when asked to fix things and return them cleaned, working and looking good. Love your channel.
Gerolf, I'm binge watching your channel and continue to do so. We're quite alike and I'm enjoying you and your work a lot. In this older video you're using a manual desoldering pump the same type I still use. But after the majority of the solder gone I use solder wick which is fine braided copper coated with flux. If you heat the connection and the wick at the same time the remaning solder is sucked into the wick. Works like a charm. Maybe a tip you can use. All the best, Job, Delft, The Netherlands
On the technical side. Deoxit D5. No need to remove the part. Every reason not to pull it. The major issue may be lead free solder. Check to see when the manufacturer switched over. The first 3 to 5 year of lead free were a disaster for board spinning. You may be chasing cold joints forever.
You caught my attention with the thumbnail! My dad has that exact Grundig radio, bought brand new in the 70s. In early 80s, I listened to my very first c-cassette on that, Finnish version of Alvin and the Chipmunks. :D Ohh the memories. It still works, sans scratchy pots and deck needing a belt. Someday I should really spend a few hours to restore it. Thanks for the video, eagerly waiting for the next one!
Yamaha input selectors are notorious for their contacts to fail, mine included. You can't beat that feeling when you've got something working and it's not going into landfill :-) I think I'm going to enjoy these vids. Excellent stuff!
Greetings from Nevada , USA . In your opening scenes , the little Olive Drab colored Television on your desk is a 1975 vintage and only the third one that I have ever seen so they must be fairly rare . I bought mine New in 1975 , and found another one in a Thrift Store in 1992 for only $5.00 as a couple of knobs were missing off the front but it still worked just fine . These Televisions are 3-way Power , 120 VAC/60 Cycle // 12 VDC // or 9 - ''D'' Cells . -- < Doc > .
I can identify with repairing things because I love puzzles, many of which have multiple solutions. Love your channel and think you are quite brilliant in your solutions.
Very nice. I repair lots of electronics gear and I can't improve on any advice you give here. I always replace the electrolytic caps with Panasonic or Rubicon parts, but I admit that's really just expensive overkill. I hate capacitors...
Someone told you "it's a waste of time" No, it's never a waste of time when you do something you like! You made me come back boy with these devices: in a central street of my city there was an appliance dealer who had set up a showcase with all the Grundig radios, had a 2 square meter exhibition area and had placed all the radios in successive files from the smallest to the most big all with their extended antennas ... it looked like a forest of antennas. I enchanted myself every time I passed in front of , hungering for the forbidden fruit (at that time, those radios were very expensive ... imagine the Satellit (6100 or 9100 I do not remember the number ... there was also that!). What a constructive quality difference, between the Grundig radio and the CD player, now radio like the Grundig would be impossible as price, even if made in China! I have a Sansui hifi amplifier that has problems; I bought it in 1988 when I made my own hifi system, then with the time I used it less often and now the potentiometer and the input selector have problems, I should decide to repair it. My fear is to break it definitively: it is a multisection potentiometer with the pole for loudness, which as for your selector is certainly impossible to find. I could spray it with those specific cleaners and clean contacts but I saw that they are of little use. When all goes right they move only the dust. Disassemble it as you did with the selector would be the most correct thing but then how do I clean the contacts without damaging the resistive part? I like these repair marathons you do from time to time, I still remember that of the power tools :-)) Thank for your condivisions!
I have exactly the same Yamaha Receiver. Got it for Free because it "didn't work properly" it has the exact same issues as yours :D I just didnt have the Time to Repair it. I'm just jiggeling the input knob till it works :D But that Receiver has such a good Sound! i really prefer it over my pretty new 5.1 System. Greetings from Germany! Great Video btw.
Gerolf, du bist ein klasse Typ. Wenn die Apokalypse kommt, schlag ich mich nach Köln durch, mit dir & den Jungs von Männertours hat man dann wohl die besten Chancen :D
I would be interested in your thoughts on the AE1 as I also have one. Nice tip on the MS Polymer glue! It's the first time I come across a glue that works with this kind of plastic. I'd be tempted to use some plastic bottle caps (hdpe I think?) and try to melt them into shape (~130 - 150 degrees?) but I doubt this solution would work as nicely as yours (or at all).09:28 : There's more of a chance of getting oil sprayed on the part from a can, I think. Especially towards the end of the can's life or with prolonged use. I know this sounds like nonsense. I would expect that cans are filled by large industrial compressors where oil leaks are not considered an issue since compressed air in a can is just a cheap commodity. Having said that, I still think it's a better idea than trying to wipe the CD lens with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. I think I've ruined a couple of CD lenses like that and wish I had thought of the compressed air canisters instead back then. Plus, you can always test the can for oil by first spraying on a napkin a few times and then taking your chances with it!
over 30 Years ago, i have learnd "Radio- und Fernsehtechniker" at Grundig. A C6200 Radiorekorder is one of the Clasics of Grundig....hmmmmm......wonderfull to see it agin....
what works great on those kind of contacts and also corroded battery contacts: cillit bang and some Q tips, gets the stuff right off, and finish with a quick spray of contact lube
Yeah, ages of nostalgia. Also a nostalgia of the time when non-EU citizens were not allowed even to visit Deutschland (like me, I am from Bulgaria) unlike nowadays when "Alle sind welcommen" - mostly neurosurgeons from Afghanistan. Anyway, I love your videos. Keep the pace making such great videos.
The LED issue was quite likely one of the ribbon cables sitting in the connectors on the board. Just moving them around will have restored a bad contact, but reseating them in a slightly different position is always a good idea after such a long time. Those ribbons have tinned ends and they get "squashed" over time (solder creep; the same reason why you should never put tinned wires into screw terminals).
The US use to have an awesome television manufacturer or brand “Curtis Mathes” in Texas. One of the problems is they lasted forever and when Japan and the other countries started making the throwaway versions fro half the price well it couldn’t stay in business. My question to you sir is a continuing one. As you repair them could you rate them as far as say Durability Dependability Quality And Performance Then compare that to today’s equipment and such. Personally I think things were made better back then and not rushed like today. But hell, I’m probably vintage too. Thank you sir and I’ll start looking through my things for you!
I like (and use) a certain type of 1970s-1980s transistor radios ("Golf Europa") with very good loudspeakers, and they are available at Ebay in Germany for not under 30 euros, usually rather 40. People still search these radios.
You don't need a reason to do what you want. As long as you are for real, keep making content (and for me at least, stay out of politics), we will support you.
Your content always fits my situation very well! I have got a Yamaha R-300 reciever and it has got exactly the same problems. The Balance and Input selector potentiometers are like the ones on your reciever. They crackle and sometimes I don't hear the sound quite right until I wiggle the Input selector a bit. The FM Radio has got the most problems. Sometimes I have to hold the Input switch one millimeter from the FM position to get FM sound. In addition the backlight for the tuner scale also has contact issues, which can be fixed or made worse by hitting the front of the reciever. It worked for the last month or so but the I hit a button a bit too hard and it turned off again! :( I'd really like to fix those problems like you did, but I am too afraid that I will break something or lose an important part.
You can just try squirting some contact cleaner into the controls and see if that does not fix things up. Be careful where you shoot contact cleaner though. I like to let it dry some before powering circuits back up.
If that's your experience then you're using the wrong contact cleaner. I'm not saying contact cleaner is 100% but if it didn't work more times than it doesn't then no one could sell the stuff.
I don't think that it'll work if you just spray it into the pot without cleaning the inside afterwards . The debris doesn't vanish ,it's still in the pot.
Thank you for this pleasant to watch, enjoyable video. :) It also might become an inspiration one day, when I'll feel like repairing or just clean up my old audio equipment. :)
I had a CD player in one of my computers die and I just blew into it real hard. That fixed it. I ain't saying it will work every time but it worked that time.
I repair and restore amplifiers from the seventies, the golden age of hifi, when great names like Marantz, Pioneer, Sansui, Onkyo etc were well respected brands. I don't care much about the cheap plastic stuff that started creeping in since the eighties. It is not a matter of nostalgia, it is a matter of quality.
I had to stop you video 0.53 seconds in, Buddy you have not wasted your life like me I love fixing old stuff electronics and engineering is brilliant. Back to your video take care.
I watched way too many english channels mispronouncing the word "Grundig" (they almost always pronounce it like the german word "grantig") that when I watched your video with the correct pronounciation for a split second I thought you actually pronounced it the wrong way ^^
I loved seeing an old National Panasonic commando TV and I do have the same Grundig radio cassette player. That's what happens when you spend your life in the consumer electronics trade.
Another thing that can sometimes help a CD or DVD drive that doesn't want to play nice is to simply take a cotton swab with rubbing alcohol on it and wipe the lens clean.
Jesus your de-soldering job is impressive, I always end up tear up the copper layers due to me being impatient. Would you do a video focused on soldering works?
Hello Post Apocalyptic Inventor, I was wondering if you could guide me in a direction to fixing my amp. I've fixed a few things before but never have I worked on an amp (I'm very new but I am learning). When I play music from any input the right channel produces this static hiss sound and distorts the output. I have tested this and all the output ports for both the A speakers and the B speakers for the right side and it still produces this static sound. As I said this sound is produced across the whole right output at every single input, cd, aux, phono and tape, left side works completely fine and I have tested my cables and my speakers as well and they are fine. I've opened it to try clean the contacts in the outputs and still the same problem persists (I haven't tried completely cleaning everything though). The only other thing is when I, funnily enough, hit the top of the amplifier out of frustration, it sprang back to life for a couple hours and then it was back to its previous state and this would work here and there but the same problem still occurred. I would really appreciate yours or any else's advice on what I should check and look for. (The model number of this Sony amp is TA-F240). Thank you very much.
Hey guys, if you like the videos and want to support the channel , you can donate on patreon or paypal (Links in the description). If you want to donate some form of "equipment" you can contact me under "inventordonations@gmail.com". Best regards and thanks for your support, Gerolf
Done!
The Post Apocalyptic Inventor were do you live in Europe, I live in the UK England many thanks Douglas James
The post-apocalyptic inventor I must have missed something. When exactly was this apocalyptic state. I mean, you're from the future right? Is the apocalypse still to come?
Sd
Repairing things is never a waste of time, because even when you don't manage to actually repair something you almost always learn something that helps you further down the line
exactly!
My Dad called it the KPD factor, he worked both in the space race and for major US electronic home market product companies. "KPD" was the "Knobs Per Dollar." The more knobs the more you could charge. As you noted many of the knobs, meters, etc. were really not needed. They also made up a lot of weird features like ACG (Automatic Gain Control) --- why would someone turn this off unless they lived on top of a transmitter tower. Our garage was an electronics lab, we had an old library "card catalog" (Libraries used to have these huge cabinets that held cards that were used to look up books, like an indexing system) but our was full of every receiving tube manufactured. 9 pin miniature, 8 pins large tubes, diode tubes, (I think the English speakers call them valves, like the valves in an internal combustion engine.) Trays of resistors all sorted by value, easy to find, tuning capacitors, etc. He would get old navy radios from the navy that were wired in series for the filaments to run on the odd voltage of a ship. Those tubes were impossible to find, plus the power supply would be difficult to make in those days. You would probably have to hand wire a transformer to get the right voltage. The days of AC hum, huge filter capacitors, the exploding rolled foil capacitors. And the favorite of all the B+ power. Now that would bite you! I liked seeing the anode of the picture tube, I assume back and white or monochrome, so only around 20,000 volts. The flyback transformers were noting to mess with (at least until high school, make a little two transistor oscillator, connect it to the low side of a transformer from the output transformer of a transistor radio, small wires, but it could step up a 9 volt DC battery to a pulsing 130 volts). Some of my projects I might take to school but never seemed to be allowed to take them home. I am glad I did not grow up today, I would have been on the dean's list for sure.
You continue to show these radios we only dreamed of and you rattle off their names like you know how to pronounce the words. "Grundig" they were famous for a short wave radio you could receive ratio singles from around the world, we would listen to "Voice of America" (The American propaganda station, maybe it is still on the air) we did not call it propaganda because that is only what "other" countries did. I love your videos and thanks for going through all of the stuff so carefully, and I agree to be very careful around those filter capacitors, short them out with a screwdriver. I don't think they used bleeder resistors. And never touch that anode (Period) I would always short out the lead with two long screwdrivers, then once the anode was removed I would clip it to the ground of the chassis. So if someone plugged the thing in it would immediately short to ground. The picture tubs can build up a charge even after they have been disconnected so the anode of that picture tube should always be respected. Even after you believe it is completely discharged.
Speaking of vintage repair, I was working as a cable installer a couple years back. One customer had an old B&W RCA TV from 1962. The wood housing was beautiful, and matched the retro furniture. He restored the TV and had it working beautifully. I came and hooked up a 75 ohm to 300 ohm balun and connected it to a small DTA. A TV that originally received 12 channels now gets over 200.
This is what I love your channel for: Recycling things or salvaging old parts
I admire your tenacity and dexterity in disassembling that fiddly selector switch.
As an initial measure, we gave suspect or crackly pots and switches a squirt of Servisol Super 10 while moving the control through its range of motion. That generally worked; if not, further disassembly or replacement was indicated.
I am looking forward to seeing more HiFi repairs!
You are true electronic repairman , no one will ever dare to do that with the switch now at days ,,, I have many years of avionics experience and many times we do all of that on switches contacts and many parts since there are no replacement available ,,,großartige Arbeit mit den Yamaha !!!!
You're an great teacher and you stay on topic. Thanks! Regardless of the apocalypse, I save $1000's shopping at second hand stores and yard sales while having fun repairing the items. It's extremely exciting watching junk turn into gold.
Repairing things is an art. It's pretty much like learning medicine for all our daily devices.
Nothing is a waste of time if you enjoy it, also you’re bang on with retro gaming, here in Australia I’ve noticed a lot of small companies starting to make arcade cabinets again with retro pie installed. Another educational video again. Thanks
I don't think you are wasting your life. Being able to fix things and actually doing it are both incredibly important things. Keep the faith brother.
when you took that switch apart... you just make me smile and remember that i did it the same many times. This is the right way and the hard way at the same time. Almost everybody uses the easy spray way which will not last long for sure
After many years in electronics r&d and having a father who did the same my preferred go to contact cleaner is a staedtler mars plastic eraser. It's none abrasive and very good for gold flashed connectors. Only if that does not work do I get something more aggressive. Good job though on the amp. I also like it when asked to fix things and return them cleaned, working and looking good. Love your channel.
Gerolf, I'm binge watching your channel and continue to do so. We're quite alike and I'm enjoying you and your work a lot. In this older video you're using a manual desoldering pump the same type I still use. But after the majority of the solder gone I use solder wick which is fine braided copper coated with flux. If you heat the connection and the wick at the same time the remaning solder is sucked into the wick. Works like a charm. Maybe a tip you can use. All the best, Job, Delft, The Netherlands
On the technical side. Deoxit D5. No need to remove the part. Every reason not to pull it. The major issue may be lead free solder. Check to see when the manufacturer switched over. The first 3 to 5 year of lead free were a disaster for board spinning. You may be chasing cold joints forever.
YES! The repair/restoration videos are my favourite videos of yours, both your electronics repair and your tool repairs. 👍👍
You caught my attention with the thumbnail! My dad has that exact Grundig radio, bought brand new in the 70s. In early 80s, I listened to my very first c-cassette on that, Finnish version of Alvin and the Chipmunks. :D Ohh the memories. It still works, sans scratchy pots and deck needing a belt. Someday I should really spend a few hours to restore it.
Thanks for the video, eagerly waiting for the next one!
Keep fighting the good fight against throwaway culture!
Yamaha input selectors are notorious for their
contacts to fail, mine included.
You can't beat that feeling when you've got something
working and it's not going into landfill :-)
I think I'm going to enjoy these vids.
Excellent stuff!
Greetings from the Philly area . Your channel is most helpful and informative .
Cheers.
Please keep the marathons up. You make very nice vids and thanks to Jeremy Fielding I have you too. Hello from Maryland, USA.
Years ago, people wondered why I bothered fixing "old stuff", today, they ask me if I can fix their "old stuff", ironic, ain't it? :P
lol
Great as always.I always value engineers and technicians who will get their hands into the mud and play around. Nice work on the switch.
These overview/rebuild/repair videos were always your strong point I thought.
Greetings from Nevada , USA . In your opening scenes , the little Olive Drab colored Television on your desk is a 1975 vintage and only the third one that I have ever seen so they must be fairly rare . I bought mine New in 1975 , and found another one in a Thrift Store in 1992 for only $5.00 as a couple of knobs were missing off the front but it still worked just fine . These Televisions are 3-way Power , 120 VAC/60 Cycle // 12 VDC // or 9 - ''D'' Cells . -- < Doc > .
Just watch this video 19/07/2022 UK calendar. I have to admit those side burns are very retro. Love your channel as well. Thank you.
I can identify with repairing things because I love puzzles, many of which have multiple solutions. Love your channel and think you are quite brilliant in your solutions.
Yesterday I repaired a non working volume control (rotary encoder) of an old Aiwa Stereo the same way you repaired the source selector switch.
It is a real pleasure to watch you in reviving haunted things, you are very handy and I thank you for all the videos. I'm looking forward to the next.
Repairing and reusing old stuff is nice, simply because it keeps all that stuff out of a landfill.
Great video! I’ve salvaged some audio equipment recently. This video gives me confidence to try fixing a minor receiver problem again.
For cleaning electrical contacts i prefer to use a simple pencil eraser, they work very good! Liked this video!
Very nice. I repair lots of electronics gear and I can't improve on any advice you give here. I always replace the electrolytic caps with Panasonic or Rubicon parts, but I admit that's really just expensive overkill. I hate capacitors...
Someone told you "it's a waste of time"
No, it's never a waste of time when you do something you like!
You made me come back boy with these devices:
in a central street of my city there was an appliance dealer who had set up a showcase with all the Grundig radios, had a 2 square meter exhibition area and had placed all the radios in successive files from the smallest to the most big all with their extended antennas ... it looked like a forest of antennas.
I enchanted myself every time I passed in front of , hungering for the forbidden fruit (at that time, those radios were very expensive ... imagine the Satellit (6100 or 9100 I do not remember the number ... there was also that!).
What a constructive quality difference, between the Grundig radio and the CD player, now radio like the Grundig would be impossible as price, even if made in China!
I have a Sansui hifi amplifier that has problems; I bought it in 1988 when I made my own hifi system, then with the time I used it less often and now the potentiometer and the input selector have problems, I should decide to repair it.
My fear is to break it definitively: it is a multisection potentiometer with the pole for loudness, which as for your selector is certainly impossible to find. I could spray it with those specific cleaners and clean contacts but I saw that they are of little use.
When all goes right they move only the dust.
Disassemble it as you did with the selector would be the most correct thing but then how do I clean the contacts without damaging the resistive part?
I like these repair marathons you do from time to time, I still remember that of the power tools :-))
Thank for your condivisions!
Metal contacts are easily cleaned with fine steel wool.
Carbon conductive areas with Isopropanol (as a "careful/non-harmful" degreaser).
… a valuable and needed skill is writing and maintaining COBOL programs that large financial institutions still run.
Another very informative and interesting video, straight to the point, great job mate 👍🏼
I have exactly the same Yamaha Receiver. Got it for Free because it "didn't work properly" it has the exact same issues as yours :D I just didnt have the Time to Repair it. I'm just jiggeling the input knob till it works :D
But that Receiver has such a good Sound! i really prefer it over my pretty new 5.1 System.
Greetings from Germany! Great Video btw.
It's so pleasing to see old useful stuff given new life!
Gerolf, du bist ein klasse Typ. Wenn die Apokalypse kommt, schlag ich mich nach Köln durch, mit dir & den Jungs von Männertours hat man dann wohl die besten Chancen :D
I would be interested in your thoughts on the AE1 as I also have one.
Nice tip on the MS Polymer glue! It's the first time I come across a glue that works with this kind of plastic. I'd be tempted to use some plastic bottle caps (hdpe I think?) and try to melt them into shape (~130 - 150 degrees?) but I doubt this solution would work as nicely as yours (or at all).09:28 : There's more of a chance of getting oil sprayed on the part from a can, I think. Especially towards the end of the can's life or with prolonged use. I know this sounds like nonsense. I would expect that cans are filled by large industrial compressors where oil leaks are not considered an issue since compressed air in a can is just a cheap commodity.
Having said that, I still think it's a better idea than trying to wipe the CD lens with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. I think I've ruined a couple of CD lenses like that and wish I had thought of the compressed air canisters instead back then. Plus, you can always test the can for oil by first spraying on a napkin a few times and then taking your chances with it!
I really enjoy this guys videos, super interesting. And he has a subtle very unique sense of humor.
What was that DIN connector on the tape deck assembly used for?
Repair marathons are the best 😄
Thank you for sharing your wonderful videos I am from South Africa
It's great to see you back again doing what you seem to enjoy. Keep up the good work my friend.
Aww yiss repair marathon is back!
over 30 Years ago, i have learnd "Radio- und Fernsehtechniker" at Grundig. A C6200 Radiorekorder is one of the Clasics of Grundig....hmmmmm......wonderfull to see it agin....
what works great on those kind of contacts and also corroded battery contacts: cillit bang and some Q tips, gets the stuff right off, and finish with a quick spray of contact lube
Nice to get new repair marathons, these are great !
Nothing is a waste as long as it achieves your personal bliss. Keep doing, Gerolf!
My grandpa have a stereo that had the same problem of your Yamaha. Thanks you helped me.
Very nice troubleshooting. I love the feeling of fixing things, so rewarding. Now where did that little washer go : )
Dein Kanal ist echt Gold wert. Freu mich schon auf neue Videos von dir!
Yeah, ages of nostalgia. Also a nostalgia of the time when non-EU citizens were not allowed even to visit Deutschland (like me, I am from Bulgaria) unlike nowadays when "Alle sind welcommen" - mostly neurosurgeons from Afghanistan. Anyway, I love your videos. Keep the pace making such great videos.
Vladimir Georgiev : A lot of rocket scientists visit from Somalia.
Guys guys don't forget theoretical physicists from Syria et al.
comeon do your stupid political diarrea somewhere else. this is really not the right place for it
you are absolutely AMAZING ! thank you for making your content. I very much appreciate it.
Great Video, i just repaired my Panasonic Amplifier like you have shown in the video, it had the same fault.
The LED issue was quite likely one of the ribbon cables sitting in the connectors on the board. Just moving them around will have restored a bad contact, but reseating them in a slightly different position is always a good idea after such a long time. Those ribbons have tinned ends and they get "squashed" over time (solder creep; the same reason why you should never put tinned wires into screw terminals).
The US use to have an awesome television manufacturer or brand “Curtis Mathes” in Texas. One of the problems is they lasted forever and when Japan and the other countries started making the throwaway versions fro half the price well it couldn’t stay in business. My question to you sir is a continuing one. As you repair them could you rate them as far as say
Durability
Dependability
Quality
And Performance
Then compare that to today’s equipment and such.
Personally I think things were made better back then and not rushed like today. But hell, I’m probably vintage too. Thank you sir and I’ll start looking through my things for you!
i love the copper hinge made part. genius
damn, you got inside a switch and put it back together without breaking it. That's magic!
These videos are most enjoyable sir! Can't wait till Friday. Thank you :-)
This should be a good series.
I like (and use) a certain type of 1970s-1980s transistor radios ("Golf Europa") with very good loudspeakers, and they are available at Ebay in Germany for not under 30 euros, usually rather 40. People still search these radios.
Thanks for showing the repairing of CD player, I didn't thought of that.
I enjoyed that and learned a lot. Thank you and keep up the good work.
Good repair, have you tried baking soda & super glue? You can build up an amount then shape it with sand paper, or even drill it.
You don't need a reason to do what you want. As long as you are for real, keep making content (and for me at least, stay out of politics), we will support you.
Hey there! Thank you for the awesome videos! Can you say what's the difference or is there any between MS polymer adhesive and SMP polymer adhesive?
I like it, when you repair old stuff, specially hifi
Just wanted to say thanks for all the amazing video content
Your content always fits my situation very well! I have got a Yamaha R-300 reciever and it has got exactly the same problems. The Balance and Input selector potentiometers are like the ones on your reciever. They crackle and sometimes I don't hear the sound quite right until I wiggle the Input selector a bit. The FM Radio has got the most problems. Sometimes I have to hold the Input switch one millimeter from the FM position to get FM sound. In addition the backlight for the tuner scale also has contact issues, which can be fixed or made worse by hitting the front of the reciever. It worked for the last month or so but the I hit a button a bit too hard and it turned off again! :(
I'd really like to fix those problems like you did, but I am too afraid that I will break something or lose an important part.
You can just try squirting some contact cleaner into the controls and see if that does not fix things up. Be careful where you shoot contact cleaner though. I like to let it dry some before powering circuits back up.
Paul Frederick contact cleaner works for a while but after a day the problem is back and probably even worse
If that's your experience then you're using the wrong contact cleaner. I'm not saying contact cleaner is 100% but if it didn't work more times than it doesn't then no one could sell the stuff.
I don't think that it'll work if you just spray it into the pot without cleaning the inside afterwards . The debris doesn't vanish ,it's still in the pot.
You move the control while the spray is wet. Contact cleaner loosens up contaminants so they can be brushed away by the motion of contacts.
Great subject for your much appreciated videos. Thanks!
i love retrotech, thank u very much for the awesome video
One legendary Tradesman, doing job he likes.
Thank you for this pleasant to watch, enjoyable video. :) It also might become an inspiration one day, when I'll feel like repairing or just clean up my old audio equipment. :)
I had a CD player in one of my computers die and I just blew into it real hard. That fixed it. I ain't saying it will work every time but it worked that time.
Turbo kid. Is a must watch.
Useful video. Excellent
another good video.. thanks.. love that term.. "retro futurism"
I repair and restore amplifiers from the seventies, the golden age of hifi, when great names like Marantz, Pioneer, Sansui, Onkyo etc were well respected brands. I don't care much about the cheap plastic stuff that started creeping in since the eighties. It is not a matter of nostalgia, it is a matter of quality.
You are a very patient man great video
Very interesting I definitely learned something thanks for making these great videos. Vielen Dank;)
I had to stop you video 0.53 seconds in, Buddy you have not wasted your life like me I love fixing old stuff electronics and engineering is brilliant. Back to your video take care.
And guess what ? We all learned something ! Thanks your great work...
Thank you for sharing your talent and knowledge! Long time subscriber here! - Danny
I watched way too many english channels mispronouncing the word "Grundig" (they almost always pronounce it like the german word "grantig") that when I watched your video with the correct pronounciation for a split second I thought you actually pronounced it the wrong way ^^
I loved seeing an old National Panasonic commando TV and I do have the same Grundig radio cassette player.
That's what happens when you spend your life in the consumer electronics trade.
Really enjoyed this video, great job!
3:08 - Hey! Make sure none of that chromium dioxide falls out!
My grandfather had exactly this model. It was by his sit for years.
Awesome stuff, keep up the great work!
Nice marathon! Thanks
Another thing that can sometimes help a CD or DVD drive that doesn't want to play nice is to simply take a cotton swab with rubbing alcohol on it and wipe the lens clean.
Can't wait to see the computer build...
Love it!! Great Job. grtz Pieter
Jesus your de-soldering job is impressive, I always end up tear up the copper layers due to me being impatient.
Would you do a video focused on soldering works?
Just found your channel, very cool. Which country are you in brother?
your Work is Top! Thanks
Hello Post Apocalyptic Inventor,
I was wondering if you could guide me in a direction to fixing my amp. I've fixed a few things before but never have I worked on an amp (I'm very new but I am learning). When I play music from any input the right channel produces this static hiss sound and distorts the output. I have tested this and all the output ports for both the A speakers and the B speakers for the right side and it still produces this static sound. As I said this sound is produced across the whole right output at every single input, cd, aux, phono and tape, left side works completely fine and I have tested my cables and my speakers as well and they are fine. I've opened it to try clean the contacts in the outputs and still the same problem persists (I haven't tried completely cleaning everything though). The only other thing is when I, funnily enough, hit the top of the amplifier out of frustration, it sprang back to life for a couple hours and then it was back to its previous state and this would work here and there but the same problem still occurred. I would really appreciate yours or any else's advice on what I should check and look for. (The model number of this Sony amp is TA-F240).
Thank you very much.