Very informative, I love when actual professionals make diy videos. I was very lucky with my 2008 Chevy equinox, it is a 3.6l and fill can has dipstick on it. Thanks again.
Sir, watching u is a joy. Thank you so much for showing source material. I don’t have to continually scour the Internet and TH-cam looking for a consensus on Numbers. It’s there in black-and-white. This is the first video I’ve ever watched of yours, automatic subscribe. Great job.
Thank you! Probably this is the most detailed howto on the subject ever watched, nothing else just a load of 100% useful info. On the Automatic transmission fluid video you got an Automatic subscriber and liker :)
Excellent video. You covered all of the details, followed GM's procedure (including showing us the source of your information), were very methodical and offered helpful hints, safety and other warnings. You had me at following the manufacturer's procedure and using a torque wrench; many other people are just "winging it" based upon similar transmission drain & refills. Bravo.
Great vlog, I’ve just ordered 20 litres of dexron 6 for my Vauxhall corsa e automatic, I intend to drain off cold and replace with the exact same amount, but do this 2 or 3 times to try and refresh the torque converter as well, it’s covered 43k miles from new now 5 years old….wish me luck 😀😀👍👍 kind regards to you and everyone out there…..Mark from the U.K. 🇬🇧
This is a professional-quality video. It does show how to properly drain and fill ATF on this vehicle. I thank you very much. I did hit that like button and subscribed. Could I also ask that you do one on a 2018 Chevrolet Cruze LS with a 1.4 L Turbo and six-speed automatic transmission?
A manual! Who da thought. I thought I had found the best video but now found the final answer. Well done. Now my $70 of oil might be a waste because of no scan tool. Unless, my meat thermometer works!
Many thanks for this awesome video including the workshop manual pages. My friend has this car, I hate this transmission design with non-replacement filter. That’s why these Chevy’s have so many tranny issue, all due to dirty filter therefore dirty oil.
I guess that since you achieved a minimum temperature of the range it's not really an issue that the small amount being added is below min temp. That small amount would quickly be brought up to temp as it entered
This is a very good and detailed video. I appreciate consulting the service manner very much. My only question is why is it necessary to check the fluid level on a sealed transmission? If there aren't any leaks, why not just replace the fluid with the exact amount that came out? Thanks!
Thanks, you can certainly take that _put back what you took out_ approach when then fill plug is not easily accessible. I did that for the 4T40/45 version of this video here - th-cam.com/video/fxdgQ_CM9hw/w-d-xo.html
Hey Dr Shock what's your take on draining a transmission using the cooler line to pump it out? Transmission is a GM 4l60. I'm replacing the stock trans cooler so the lines will be off. Thanks for the incredible instruction!
I definitely wouldn't use the running transmission pump to do that, there's just too high of a risk of running the pump dry. Internal transmission bushings can be damaged very quickly with a lack of ATF lubrication. But if you have an external suction/flush machine that supports connecting at the cooler line, that would work.
Also we should note that the manual says 120,000kms then in fine print down the bottom, "if stop start driving, driving in heat, or under load, 60,000kms to replace the fluid." Makes me wonder how many Captiva's transmissions broke because they didn't know this. Hence the reputation issues sometimes. Maybe the earlier manual didn't say it anyway, mine is a 2016 Holden Captiva and it refers to this stop start etc basically city driving captiva, change at 60,000kms.
getting to 185 degrees was almost impossible. I tried the idling for an hour... i tried reeving the engine, I even took it out on the interstate highway best I could get was 172 degrees. on my way home I would go really slow then floor it until i just about redlined... when I pulled into the driveway I hit 186.2 degrees! aside from that it was super easy. next time I'm just going to drive around in L1 and save some time.
I have checked my temperature from PA all the way up to the New York on i95. It spent 70 miles trips on the high way. The temperature does not meet the books required. It only goes about 83-84.
Many aftermarket ODB2 dongles do _not_ read the transmission temperature correctly on this GM model. Your tool/app is probably reporting a few degrees off because of this.
Check in the description, there's a list of regular production (RPO) codes representing the automatic transaxles that this video applies to. You can find these codes on your service parts information sticker. This black and silver/white sticker is usually affixed in the glove box on SUV models, but it may also be on the passenger side door jamb.
Great video, congrats! I followed all the steps on my Chevy Captiva 2011. The only issue I have is that even after driving several Km (around 50) the temperature never goes beyond 78 Degree Centigrades! No way to raise the temperature until 85 to check the fluid level! I have checked using both my Car Diagnostic Monitor and with a laser thermometer just to be sure I was reading the right value. Any hints to get to 85 Degrees? Thanks!!
Thanks. It can certainly take awhile to come up to temp just idling. But a short highway drive should most certainly warm her up inside. When checking this without a scan tool, there's always the possibility of a false reading. I presume your _Car Diagnostic Monitor_ is some sort of bluetooth OBDII dongle device?
@@DrShock Hello! Yes I have used an OBD2 dongle with a mobile application. I can read several variables related to oil temperature, and all of them give me the same values. One is "Transmission fluid temperature" and another one is "ATF Temperature". What looks really strange to me is that even after a 30 minutes drive the oil temperature never raises over 78 degrees...
Hey! I tried today again with Torque Pro, and I got the very same results...the temperature even after several Km drive does not go beyond 70- 76 Degrees. I tried with two different dongles ELM327 (one wifi and one BT) and I got the same results. Now my question is: could it be that the temperature sensor is faulty? Or, could it be that in my car for some strange reasons the temperature never reaches the target temp for level check? Thanks.
Hello Dr shock, I have a 2012 Chevy sonic ltz 1.8L. so after you drain the fluid, you start the car first and then add the fluid or do you full it first and do the fluid check after engine is warmed up.
Drain and replace the fluid, getting an approximate refill amount loosely based on how much you roughly drained out in the first place. That should be enough to operate the transmission (as it was before you started this procedure). Then warm up to operating temperature to make sure it's at the correct level at the check plug. Having sufficient fluid will let you safely do a short loop round the parking lot, if necessary to get up to temp in colder weather.
Be sure you are looking at the Fahrenheit temperature scale in the scan tool when doing this procedure. Also, the professional level grade of the scan tool is important for this procedure. I've seen several comments over the years on this vid where lower grade tools are just not reporting the transmission fluid temperature PID accurately, or at all. What we cover in this vid is the official _by the book_ GM service manual procedure for the 6T40/6T45, and getting to this temperature following it is possible but can take some time just idling. Working thru the gears as I showed on the manual page is helpful. Low reving can also be helpful in getting up to the _normal_ operating temperature of this transmission (185° - 203° F).
@DrShock lol, 160 Celsius. I believe things might start melting. I'm using Obdlink MX+ with the app, Car Scanner. It shows 6 to 7 different readings for the transmission temp, all in agreement, in both Celsius and Fahrenheit. I'm not complaining about your excellent directions. In further instructions, it says to drive the car in second gear until that 180 is reached. Good luck not pissing everyone off trying that. Along with looking like an idiot. It just seems they put that temperature outside the normal operating conditions to make it difficult for the average person. Just frustrating and venting. You make outstanding videos! Thank you!
How much did you add before starting it? Does it not start spewing out from the funnel if you're adding fluids while its running? Is it possible to do with out scan tool? Sorry but if someone is going to try n save money doing it at home, doubt they have 100s to drop on a scan tool. Can't you just run at idle for a good while then check it? I'm mechanically inclined but never messed with a plugged trans before and have zero funds for a fancy scan tool. Just have a basic one that can give me codes. Any help would be amazing
A scan tool is _required_ since these transaxle type units only show the correct fluid level within a particular temperature range. Both too little fluid, and too much fluid, can cause internal damage over time. What you can do if you do not have the right tools, is put back in *only and exactly* what ATF you drain out. So don't spill any and measure it out correctly and exactly. Doing that will get by in a pinch. You won't know if the original level was correct of course, but you'll be putting it back to whatever it was so you'll be no worse off than you were to start with.
When turning my wheels, i don't have a clear view of the fill plug. There is a pillar/column in the way. Any recommendations? Only idea i have is to remove my front wheel with the car slightly jacked up.
Some GM vehicles may be designed with the vehicle being on a lift at the dealership in mind. You may have to remove the wheel to get access, and/or turn the steering as well to reorient the brake caliper for access. Just remember you have to keep the vehicle level or the fluid level reading will not be correct, so that means four jack stands at all four corners not just one where the wheel by the plug is.
The GM service information for each vehicle, that's what I showed during this vid for reference. There's a link in the description where an used copy might be found.
If you use the check plug, is there a way to flush the transmission by putting additional fluid in and letting it run out? Or would you say it's not worth trying?
That approach would not affect the fluid stored within the torque converter, nor would that approach do anything other than mix with the old tired fluid already inside. A flush requires a special machine to perform and utilizes pressure to do its task. Of note, the GM service manual does not call for using a flush machine for this particular maintenance though. Drain and fill, as shown in this vid, is all that's needed for a regular maintenance op.
@@unboxking7802 It is not bad. His transmission will last the life of the vehicle. I have an 02 Grand Prix that I don't he same thing drain the pan about every 6000 and refill it. The trans always has clean fresh fluid that way.
I did a fluid change a couple days ago on a 6T40 with 103k miles. I measured what came out and put 5 qts back in to match. Then I watched a video that said to fill to the fill plug level cold. Then I saw in the owners manual that it takes 5.3 qts. So I assumed that in 103k miles that a tenth of a qt leaked out over 13 years. So I added .4 qts today, making 5.4 qts added back in total. Now I see your video and the factory service manual say I should do a hot check for level. I Also see that the fill plug is hard to reach. On the Next warm day coming up, I will turn the tire out and check the fill plug cold. Then I will check it hot after driving. This is my second fluid change in 4000 miles and the fluid was still black this time. Almost as bad as last time. Honda suggests three consecutive fluid changes every 50k miles for $400 at their dealership, due to their not having a filter either. I'm planning a third fluid change in a couple weeks, based on the Honda dealership process.
I didn't keep track of this knowing I was doing the service manual procedure, but GM claims the 6T40/6T45 series will take between 4.2 and 6.3 quarts when drained from the plug only. The variation has to be handled by the procedure I go over in the video.
Can you please tell me why it is necessary to get the transmission fluid to that exact temperature range when checking the level? Is it just due to the expansion of the fluid, or do valves or something of that sort have to open (like the thermostat in the engine) inside the transmission?
The ATF level rises, up to a point, as the transaxle or transmission heats up and pressures reach optimum levels. That's why GM requires the level be checked only at that point.
@@DrShock Thanks for taking the time to reply. Another question...I changed the transmission fluid in my Cruze around two months ago. Thought I had the fluid at the proper level (have not noticed any leaks). Seems to be shifting as well as before (it never did shift particularly smoothly), but when I take my foot off the accelerator, I get kind of an engine-braking kind of sensation. When I gently apply the brakes it goes away. Thoughts?
Next to impossible to speculate on something like that. Many possibilities. Would need to hook up a scan tool and drive it with live data to diagnosis whether the torque converter is functioning properly.
I own a 2016 Chevrolet Cruze Limited LT with 103,000 miles, I went to a dealership and was able to get a print out and the transmission in my vehicle is the 6T40 (MH8). My owner’s manual doesn’t list draining the transmission fluid under the “normal” maintenance schedule. Instead it lists draining the fluid every 45,000 miles under the severe schedule. So I am a little confused by what my manual states. I live in PA and it’s 30 miles each way to drive to and from work. The driving conditions are normal, as in no long periods of idling or start stops pretty much just driving non stop. I haven’t noticed any slipping or anything. So my question is would it be beneficial for me to have my transmission fluid changed?
GM has for years kept inching towards their concept of _"lifetime fluids"_ , so not surprising there would be differences in the 2016 owners manual maintenance schedules and the manuals even just 2 or 3 years earlier. But GM never defines how many years, or miles, is their view of _lifetime_ of a given vehicle. So it's really a question of _after how many years, or miles, is the owners manual maintenance schedule invalidated?_ I would go with what the model year manual for your vehicle suggests during the first decade and a half of the cars _life_ , as that would be what the GM engineers determined was necessary for proper maintenance for that given model year. And fifteen years is likely a close approximation of what GM considered a given vehicles _"life"_ . But after that time I would consider performing some maintenance tasks that went beyond the manuals schedule that would help the vehicle make it to its second, and perhaps third, decades of _life_ . The Chevrolet owners manual for the particular vehicle shown in this video, called for the ATF to be changed at every 97.5K miles under the normal schedule, for comparison.
@@DrShock Great reply, as a Ford owner they do the same thing, they claim transmission, PTU I have AWD and rear are lifetime fluids. I don't think so, any company that claims lifetime fluid, they just want you back in the dealer buying a car a few years sooner than you should be.
The vehicle in the video has the GM Ecotec 1.4L turbocharged engine. But since this is a transaxle (aka transmission) related vid, it doesn't matter which engine you have. Just which GM transaxle you have, which for this video would be the 6T40 / 6T45 family. The amount of ATF can vary vehicle to vehicle, so you have to use the scan tool method (hence this video). Even a 6oz mistake either way can cause shifting problems with these models.
In Qatar no I wouldn't know, in the USA both the 1.4L and the 1.8L engines use a 6 speed automatic transaxle type. With the 1.8L typically paired to the 6T30 and the 1.4L the 6T40 for the model year range this video covers. The 6T30 is typically RPO MH9 in the USA.
The _possible_ capacity range will be the same for all transaxle models this video covers. So the GM 6T30/6T40/6T45 and 6T50. However, the ATF fill will vary from vehicle to vehicle so there is no set fluid level for these models. It can range _anywhere_ from 4.2 quarts to 6.3 quarts. Which is exactly why you must follow this specific fill procedure to dial it in for the particular vehicle you are working on. Failure to follow this procedure will result in either an overfill, or an underfill, situation. Either of which situation can negatively affect this transaxle model family internally.
You need to have a tool to measure the ATF temperature for your specific situation in to perform this procedure correctly. Too low, or too high, of an ATF level will lead to premature internal wear/failure on these GM transaxle/transmission models. How _long_ it takes to reach the service manual temperature will vary by your location specifics (ambient outside temperature and pressure during the procedure, ambient engine coolant temperature before starting the procedure). What you can do for location conditions causing this to take an excessively long time (with the _initial_ refill level of ATF already added of course) is to intersperse some _low_ rpm revs and gear shifts. With *all four wheels* off the ground (to maintain the vehicle at level) running it in gear as well can speed the temperature climb somewhat.
You cannot fully change the torque converter contents without disassembling the transmission, so this is not economical to be concerned with. The GM service manual does not call for multiple drain and drives to attempt this indirectly. Some folks like to do that approach anyway, but there's no factory recommendation to do so. The basic service manual procedure is all the engineers that designed the transmission recommend, anything more is just more. The dealerships will sometimes charge to hook up a machine that does an ATF vacuum and flush procedure. Not required, and often a source of new problems on high mileage vehicle seals. But it is a faster approach, and thus more profitable for professional shops, than the manual procedure from the GM service manual shown here.
@@DrShock I enjoyed your video. I went to my dealer to inquire about a fluid change on my 2018 Cruze after watching your video, 50K on it. The part about using a scan tool and refill procedure scared me a bit. The service advisor said their transmission service on my car would include a machine that would vacuum and flush out all of the fluid, including what was in the torque converter. Is this possible? I have known this guy for a long time so I hope he is not trying to rip me off. Maybe he was mixing up the procedure on a Cruze with another vehicle. Dealer wants to charge $249 (Canadian) for this. Seems high but at least I will know it was done right.
A flush machine works thru the transaxle/transmission fluid fill opening. It is an alternative to the service manual procedure shown in this vid. For vehicles that do _not_ have a serviceable filter to replace, like the models in this video, it can be a lower cost alternative approach. For models _with_ a filter, there is no alternative to dropping the pan/pulling the covers off to access the filter. Flushing is not the service manual procedure, as you now know from viewing the actual GM service manual in this video. But a transmission flush is fine for a newer low mileage vehicle imo. However, I would discourage their use on older high mileage vehicles. A full pan drop/or a drain plug drop and fill is less drama prone on an older high mileage vehicle. There is some risk, due to how the flush process works, of dislodging debris via backflow in higher mileage vehicles. Particularly those that have had poor or no servicing previously.
Typically only trucks, and not even with all models, will have a transmission temperature readout on the instrument cluster. Usually this is a bi-directional scan tool, or suitable Bluetooth scan app like Torque, requirement to see.
Good evening this is Ms, Rodriguez from Brooklyn NY . I have a 2009 Malibu and since my mechanic changed the oir. I have problem with the transmission . it is not shifting smoothly , He used Valvoline ATF
So why couldn’t you just do the drain stone cold, measure what comes out, then fill it with that exact amount?. No need to remove drain plug or warm it up etc..?
That would be the _shadetree_ way of doing it. And I've certainly done that route, especially for GM transaxle models where the level check plug is problematic to access without a lift. But it's not the _recommended_ way, and it won't catch the situation where you were already low on ATF to begin with. You'll freshen up what you had for sure, but may still be low which can lead to internal wear issues depending on how low it was/is.
Yes an internal one, but as I mentioned in the vid you can only access it by removing the transmission from the engine/vehicle. It's not owner serviceable.
I mentioned this in the vid, as an optional step to gain more access to the fill port area for certain funnel shapes. I am using one that does not require removing the module.
Hello everyone, I am the owner of a 2015 Cruze LTZ, 1.4 turbo, I can’t warm up the box to 85-95 degrees, no matter how much I drive, I stand in drive mode, in general, I perform various manipulations that can raise the temperature, the maximum warms up to 80 degrees, but then quickly cools down. This is due to the fact that I have a transmission cooling radiator from the factory, however I need to find a way to heat my transmission to at least 85 degrees, can someone share? due to incorrect oil level when the transmission warms up, I experience jolts when shifting gears
GM transaxles of this 6T series have a fluid cooler, and the GM service manual instructions included account for this in their stated temperature ranges. The service manual specifies a specific range for _operating temperature_ for this fill procedure of 85° - 95° C. I just pulled up the 2015 version of the manual and it's this exact same temperature range stated, which is including the cooler. Aside from the method of getting the transaxle fluid up to temperature (a highway drive is the fastest way), what you are describing is more of a problem with the choice of scan tool and/or the PID involved. A GM MDI tool using ACDelco Techline Connect will provide a correct temperature rating every time. Unfortunately, aftermarket scan tools can be hit or miss depending on their level of quality and accuracy to the GM tooling. Some aftermarket scan tools either lack the transaxle temperature PID altogether, or report it inaccurately. Those tools that claim J-2534 compatibility should be OK.
Any that can read the transmission temperature PID. I believe from earlier comments some folks had success with the Torque Pro smartphone app coupled with a OBDII adapter, for example.
Przy tej transmisji trzeba uważać, aby nie przepełnić. Stąd ta procedura w filmie. Jeśli nie masz skanera, najlepszym rozwiązaniem jest zmierzenie tego, co spuściłeś i dodanie z powrotem dokładnie tej samej ilości.
300 ml to niewielka nadwyżka i nie przejmowałbym się tym zbytnio, gdybyś po prostu włożył to. Jeśli włożysz 2X lub więcej, powinieneś wyciągnąć korek spustowy i spuścić nadmiar.
That time is inherently dependent on the weather, outside ambient temperature, and whether the vehicle has been driven prior. This video was done back in February during Winter, where the vehicle hadn't been driven, so it took quite awhile to get to the target fluid temperature. The same exact procedure on the same exact car in the Summer would be an order of magnitude difference in time. I don't recall how long this one took, but there's no getting around having a scan tool for this procedure given how GM has designed it. You won't get the right fluid level reading without being in the right temperature range. When folks don't have a scan tool, I recommend you just carefully measure the ATF you removed and add back exactly the same amount only. It's not the preferred method, but it's not going to get you overfilled. The risk is being underfilled with that route.
I'm using the GM dealership gear, which is on the more expensive side. The software can be rented over the weekend at www.acdelcotds.com. But the actual adapter from the laptop to the vehicle is a clone/knockoff of the GM MDI adapter - th-cam.com/video/pZfXuuzORZo/w-d-xo.html There are some OBD2 Bluetooth type solutions that I mentioned in the video that might have this capability combined with the right smartphone app. One you might look into is Torque Pro.
One day, someone is going to able to tell us how to get the temperature into appropriate range for checking transmission fluid. No amount of highway driving or idling will get my Cruze into this this range. ( Checked with a scan tool.) I suspect that the factory fitted oil cooler has something to do with this. If any GM technician is willing to tell us how they do it during servicing, it would be very much appreciated.
The transaxle models this vid covers do not have a serviceable filter. It would be located deep inside, and only replaced during a full overhaul/rebuild.
Do you do that when changing the oil in an engine? The reason that's not a desirable approach, nor recommended by GM, is that what you drained out could have been overfilled or underfilled to begin with. Underfilled being the most concern, just like low oil in an engine, nothing good comes of that condition. IMO in a _pinch_ you could take that shortcut approach, and then in very short order go back and check the level correctly.
That won't really give you the fluid temperature, only the outside case temperature. If you don't have a scan tool that can measure the actual ATF temperature, I'd suggest you're better off just using the _replace what you drained_ method. Where you keep track of the amount of ATF drained and replace _only_ that exact same amount. Definitely not the ideal approach, but if followed precisely can do.
I ended up buying an OBD II scan, Torque Pro app, following your advice in the cheapest way possible. Can you please help find the correct [GM]Transmission Fluid Temp (GM Method. I saw that there are 3 methods but I don't know which one to choose according to my transmission and have the most accurate measurement possible@@DrShock
Not sure what you are referring to about _methods_ in this context. I've not used Torque Pro in many years, but there should be a PID (parameter ID) for the ATF temperature. It used to be under _manage extra pids_ or a similar menu option to add transmission temperature. If not, you might check with Torque Pro support on how to add this PID for a GM vehicle.
That's not a reliable approach. The fluid level on GM transaxles changes with temperature. The scanner is needed only to measure the temperature. If you do not do it the way I showed you, the official GM service manual procedure, then you run the _risk_ of overfilling or underfilling, either of which can internally damage a GM transaxle.
@DrShock How would you run the risk of overfilling/underfilling the transmission if you drain and refill the fluid? If you take out 4l and put 4l back in, there is no change in atf level?
Only in the fact that if the original condition was over/under you've maintained that _incorrect_ fill level with such an approach. If it were really that easy with no downside risks, don't you think GM would have written the procedure up that way to reduce their costs during warranty servicing? ;-)
@DrShock I'm thinking that if dealer is do transmission warranty work the fill time isn't much of a percentage of their time. My thinking is they might do it so they dealer has more billable time when doing non warranty maintenance. If the heat expansion is critical then why not a dipstck to check when 'hot' and back then there was a range on the dipstick. What's changed that transmissions are so critical to the slightest level difference. Seems to me we are going backwards. Same as all these vvt stuff now so critical on engine oil level and cleanliness. Make us an engine we can abuse lol.
That's why I use a _vintage_ Craftsman, they are American made inexpensive, durable, and do not snowflake out on you. A well made one should serve just fine for _occasionally_ loosening such 10mm or so low torque fasteners.
Some believe that GM discontinued dipsticks on transmissions in order to have the fluid service done by experienced personnel, using only the correct Dexron VI ATF, and set at the correct level by operating temperature _during the warranty period_ to avoid premature failures on their dime. Transmissions, and transaxles, are far more complex now with very tight manufacturing tolerances that do not survive long with the fluid either over or under filled. Easy enough to do yourself though once the vehicle is out of factory warranty, as I've shown here
@@DrShock The reason i say this is because my wife's friend left her car at my house and went shopping in my wife's car. Her husband called me and said there was some fluid on the garage floor where her car sits. Could you look at it. I go look and the transmission vent had unscrewed. I called him and told him the problem but i had no way of knowing how much fluid was missing. Was it missing a quart, 2, 3, empty, who knows without a dipstick. Since i did not know, I put in 1/2 quart and drove it to the jiffy lube.
It can take awhile if the transmission was cold this time of year. It can also be approached in the other direction of course, and tackle this after a warm up drive waiting for the transmission to instead cool down closer to the target temperature rather than warm up.
slowly along in 2nd and 3rd is best apparently, that way there isn't much air cooling. I have a couple of small hills around, so just up and down these got it to 90'C no problem. This was after draining and filling up the amount that came out. It was spot on the level no problem, good to check.
Ok shade tree mechanics, Instead of all that temp BS, just put back in the same amount you removed. HOWEVER, be aware that if you were low to begin with you'll STILL be low. So if your Trans is leaking then you must use the check plug method.
Might have put the drain plug too soon instruction says wait till drips not a steady stream. But honestly I think it will be fine. The instructions are a little overkill like you’re making a Swiss timepiece
GM does not typically use 11mm fasteners for this, so that may be aftermarket replacement. Or it could just be a variance in GM production not called out in the service manual.
There is an easier way. If your transmission is not leaking or in bad shape, measure carefully everything you took out and replace it with the same amount. No need to do all the operating temp BS and pulling out the plug.
It should be pointed out that such an approach will *not* correct a _pre-existing_ low, or overfilled, ATF condition. Either of which will negatively affect the lifespan of these GM transmission models in short order. It's not _that bad_ to do this suggestion in a pinch, or temporarily, but that it does always carry that risk of hiding a real problem.
Had a cooler line fail on my Encore and pretty much dumped all the fluid out and never had a sign of an issue while driving. Sure hope I didn't cook the transmission. 2017 encore awd.
I agree with all of this, however I would drain and fill twice (so be sure to buy nine quarts) and drive for 5-10mins in between each drain and fill. And FYI it takes FOREVER to get the trans up to temp especially if it under 50 degrees.
Yep, that temp is a slow slow walk even when it's warmer out. I'd only point out that you can never get a _full_ flush done as the torque converter will hold onto several quarts no matter what you do with the transmission still installed to the engine. But diluting the worn out fluid with new is the goal in order to refresh the lubricant back to a younger average state of chemistry.
Very informative, I love when actual professionals make diy videos. I was very lucky with my 2008 Chevy equinox, it is a 3.6l and fill can has dipstick on it.
Thanks again.
This has to be one of the most amazingly detailed videos Ive ever seen you've earned a follower
Sir, watching u is a joy. Thank you so much for showing source material. I don’t have to continually scour the Internet and TH-cam looking for a consensus on Numbers. It’s there in black-and-white. This is the first video I’ve ever watched of yours, automatic subscribe. Great job.
Thanks so much Drshock! I have a 2015 Buick Encore and have used all your videos to do maintenance on it and saved me TONS of money!
Thank you! Probably this is the most detailed howto on the subject ever watched, nothing else just a load of 100% useful info. On the Automatic transmission fluid video you got an Automatic subscriber and liker :)
what a video man ,,, i wish people would take the time to dissect videos like this
Excellent video. You covered all of the details, followed GM's procedure (including showing us the source of your information), were very methodical and offered helpful hints, safety and other warnings. You had me at following the manufacturer's procedure and using a torque wrench; many other people are just "winging it" based upon similar transmission drain & refills. Bravo.
Great vlog, I’ve just ordered 20 litres of dexron 6 for my Vauxhall corsa e automatic, I intend to drain off cold and replace with the exact same amount, but do this 2 or 3 times to try and refresh the torque converter as well, it’s covered 43k miles from new now 5 years old….wish me luck 😀😀👍👍 kind regards to you and everyone out there…..Mark from the U.K. 🇬🇧
This is a professional-quality video. It does show how to properly drain and fill ATF on this vehicle. I thank you very much. I did hit that like button and subscribed. Could I also ask that you do one on a 2018 Chevrolet Cruze LS with a 1.4 L Turbo and six-speed automatic transmission?
That's a great video! with clear and precisa comments, divided by chapters, very good video quality. COngrats and thanks, buddy!!
A manual! Who da thought. I thought I had found the best video but now found the final answer. Well done. Now my $70 of oil might be a waste because of no scan tool. Unless, my meat thermometer works!
Thank you very much we have this transmission in the 2017 holden barina in nz and aus. And was struggling to find this info!
Many thanks for this awesome video including the workshop manual pages.
My friend has this car, I hate this transmission design with non-replacement filter.
That’s why these Chevy’s have so many tranny issue, all due to dirty filter therefore dirty oil.
There's no filter. Just screens on the solenoids and the solenoid mount plate.
Thank you best of the five videos I watch about changing transmission fluid.
Thank you very much for this well done content!
I also would like to say thank you very much. You explained everything And even in the way that I could understand.Great video
I guess that since you achieved a minimum temperature of the range it's not really an issue that the small amount being added is below min temp. That small amount would quickly be brought up to temp as it entered
This is a very good and detailed video. I appreciate consulting the service manner very much. My only question is why is it necessary to check the fluid level on a sealed transmission? If there aren't any leaks, why not just replace the fluid with the exact amount that came out? Thanks!
Thanks, you can certainly take that _put back what you took out_ approach when then fill plug is not easily accessible. I did that for the 4T40/45 version of this video here - th-cam.com/video/fxdgQ_CM9hw/w-d-xo.html
Fantastic Video, thank you very much.
I got a 2012 buick regal 2.4l with a 6T40... I grabbed the 12mm but it slips...my drain and check were both 11mm FYI
Same as 2016 malibu lt 1.5t
My 2014 Chevy Captiva was 11mm as well for drain and fill plugs
fantastic video
Assuming no leak before hand how about measuring amount removed and adding that exact amount ?
Nice video, I found this video after many searching. You literally did every single step. Ty for you video!
Hey Dr Shock what's your take on draining a transmission using the cooler line to pump it out? Transmission is a GM 4l60. I'm replacing the stock trans cooler so the lines will be off. Thanks for the incredible instruction!
I definitely wouldn't use the running transmission pump to do that, there's just too high of a risk of running the pump dry. Internal transmission bushings can be damaged very quickly with a lack of ATF lubrication. But if you have an external suction/flush machine that supports connecting at the cooler line, that would work.
This helped a bunch thank you
I just love it WOW
Also we should note that the manual says 120,000kms then in fine print down the bottom, "if stop start driving, driving in heat, or under load, 60,000kms to replace the fluid." Makes me wonder how many Captiva's transmissions broke because they didn't know this. Hence the reputation issues sometimes. Maybe the earlier manual didn't say it anyway, mine is a 2016 Holden Captiva and it refers to this stop start etc basically city driving captiva, change at 60,000kms.
getting to 185 degrees was almost impossible. I tried the idling for an hour... i tried reeving the engine, I even took it out on the interstate highway best I could get was 172 degrees. on my way home I would go really slow then floor it until i just about redlined... when I pulled into the driveway I hit 186.2 degrees! aside from that it was super easy. next time I'm just going to drive around in L1 and save some time.
I have checked my temperature from PA all the way up to the New York on i95. It spent 70 miles trips on the high way. The temperature does not meet the books required. It only goes about 83-84.
Many aftermarket ODB2 dongles do _not_ read the transmission temperature correctly on this GM model. Your tool/app is probably reporting a few degrees off because of this.
Question i have a 2017 buick encore, is the precedure the same? And thx for your content!
Check in the description, there's a list of regular production (RPO) codes representing the automatic transaxles that this video applies to. You can find these codes on your service parts information sticker. This black and silver/white sticker is usually affixed in the glove box on SUV models, but it may also be on the passenger side door jamb.
Thx doc
Is the clicking sound while the vehicle is running normal kind of hear when you’re up at the top of the engine
Great video, congrats! I followed all the steps on my Chevy Captiva 2011. The only issue I have is that even after driving several Km (around 50) the temperature never goes beyond 78 Degree Centigrades! No way to raise the temperature until 85 to check the fluid level! I have checked using both my Car Diagnostic Monitor and with a laser thermometer just to be sure I was reading the right value. Any hints to get to 85 Degrees? Thanks!!
Thanks. It can certainly take awhile to come up to temp just idling. But a short highway drive should most certainly warm her up inside. When checking this without a scan tool, there's always the possibility of a false reading. I presume your _Car Diagnostic Monitor_ is some sort of bluetooth OBDII dongle device?
@@DrShock Hello! Yes I have used an OBD2 dongle with a mobile application. I can read several variables related to oil temperature, and all of them give me the same values. One is "Transmission fluid temperature" and another one is "ATF Temperature". What looks really strange to me is that even after a 30 minutes drive the oil temperature never raises over 78 degrees...
Yeah, that sounds like a software bug in the mobile app you're using. You might be able to report it to the developer and get an update to fix it.
@@DrShock Thanks. I will do that. In the meantime I have downloaded Torque Pro as you suggested. Tomorrow I will try again and let you know! Cheers!
Hey! I tried today again with Torque Pro, and I got the very same results...the temperature even after several Km drive does not go beyond 70- 76 Degrees. I tried with two different dongles ELM327 (one wifi and one BT) and I got the same results. Now my question is: could it be that the temperature sensor is faulty? Or, could it be that in my car for some strange reasons the temperature never reaches the target temp for level check? Thanks.
Hello Dr shock, I have a 2012 Chevy sonic ltz 1.8L. so after you drain the fluid, you start the car first and then add the fluid or do you full it first and do the fluid check after engine is warmed up.
Drain and replace the fluid, getting an approximate refill amount loosely based on how much you roughly drained out in the first place. That should be enough to operate the transmission (as it was before you started this procedure). Then warm up to operating temperature to make sure it's at the correct level at the check plug. Having sufficient fluid will let you safely do a short loop round the parking lot, if necessary to get up to temp in colder weather.
That temperature is crazy! Why would it ever get that hot? 2016 Chevy trax. The highest temp I could get is 160. How and why would you do that?
Be sure you are looking at the Fahrenheit temperature scale in the scan tool when doing this procedure. Also, the professional level grade of the scan tool is important for this procedure. I've seen several comments over the years on this vid where lower grade tools are just not reporting the transmission fluid temperature PID accurately, or at all. What we cover in this vid is the official _by the book_ GM service manual procedure for the 6T40/6T45, and getting to this temperature following it is possible but can take some time just idling. Working thru the gears as I showed on the manual page is helpful. Low reving can also be helpful in getting up to the _normal_ operating temperature of this transmission (185° - 203° F).
@DrShock lol, 160 Celsius. I believe things might start melting. I'm using Obdlink MX+ with the app, Car Scanner. It shows 6 to 7 different readings for the transmission temp, all in agreement, in both Celsius and Fahrenheit. I'm not complaining about your excellent directions. In further instructions, it says to drive the car in second gear until that 180 is reached. Good luck not pissing everyone off trying that. Along with looking like an idiot. It just seems they put that temperature outside the normal operating conditions to make it difficult for the average person. Just frustrating and venting. You make outstanding videos! Thank you!
How much did you add before starting it? Does it not start spewing out from the funnel if you're adding fluids while its running? Is it possible to do with out scan tool? Sorry but if someone is going to try n save money doing it at home, doubt they have 100s to drop on a scan tool. Can't you just run at idle for a good while then check it? I'm mechanically inclined but never messed with a plugged trans before and have zero funds for a fancy scan tool. Just have a basic one that can give me codes. Any help would be amazing
A scan tool is _required_ since these transaxle type units only show the correct fluid level within a particular temperature range. Both too little fluid, and too much fluid, can cause internal damage over time.
What you can do if you do not have the right tools, is put back in *only and exactly* what ATF you drain out. So don't spill any and measure it out correctly and exactly. Doing that will get by in a pinch. You won't know if the original level was correct of course, but you'll be putting it back to whatever it was so you'll be no worse off than you were to start with.
When turning my wheels, i don't have a clear view of the fill plug. There is a pillar/column in the way. Any recommendations? Only idea i have is to remove my front wheel with the car slightly jacked up.
Some GM vehicles may be designed with the vehicle being on a lift at the dealership in mind. You may have to remove the wheel to get access, and/or turn the steering as well to reorient the brake caliper for access. Just remember you have to keep the vehicle level or the fluid level reading will not be correct, so that means four jack stands at all four corners not just one where the wheel by the plug is.
You're an excellent instructor, Gracias! 😊💟🇵🇷
@DrShock I will be doing a transmission oil change on a 2016 Chevy Trax. Will it be the same way in this video?
It should be nearly identical, as the Trax has this same Ecotec 1.4L engine and 6T40 transmission.
@@DrShock thank you
THANK YOU!
Thank you thank you thank you
Hello DrShock, is there a manual with the steps to follow when changing the coolant?
The GM service information for each vehicle, that's what I showed during this vid for reference. There's a link in the description where an used copy might be found.
If you use the check plug, is there a way to flush the transmission by putting additional fluid in and letting it run out? Or would you say it's not worth trying?
That approach would not affect the fluid stored within the torque converter, nor would that approach do anything other than mix with the old tired fluid already inside. A flush requires a special machine to perform and utilizes pressure to do its task. Of note, the GM service manual does not call for using a flush machine for this particular maintenance though. Drain and fill, as shown in this vid, is all that's needed for a regular maintenance op.
@@DrShock Fair enough, and it's not possible to change the oil filter as it's internal right?
I change my transfluid as often as I change my engine oil. I installed a drain plug pan on my 4l60 to make it easy. Cuz why not
LOL 🤘
Heard it's bad to do that
@@unboxking7802 It is not bad. His transmission will last the life of the vehicle. I have an 02 Grand Prix that I don't he same thing drain the pan about every 6000 and refill it. The trans always has clean fresh fluid that way.
I did a fluid change a couple days ago on a 6T40 with 103k miles. I measured what came out and put 5 qts back in to match. Then I watched a video that said to fill to the fill plug level cold. Then I saw in the owners manual that it takes 5.3 qts. So I assumed that in 103k miles that a tenth of a qt leaked out over 13 years. So I added .4 qts today, making 5.4 qts added back in total. Now I see your video and the factory service manual say I should do a hot check for level. I Also see that the fill plug is hard to reach. On the Next warm day coming up, I will turn the tire out and check the fill plug cold. Then I will check it hot after driving. This is my second fluid change in 4000 miles and the fluid was still black this time. Almost as bad as last time. Honda suggests three consecutive fluid changes every 50k miles for $400 at their dealership, due to their not having a filter either. I'm planning a third fluid change in a couple weeks, based on the Honda dealership process.
So good
How many quarts did yours take roughly after the final top off? Just curious I have a 19 Blazer that has the same drain and fill procedure. 👍
I didn't keep track of this knowing I was doing the service manual procedure, but GM claims the 6T40/6T45 series will take between 4.2 and 6.3 quarts when drained from the plug only. The variation has to be handled by the procedure I go over in the video.
@@DrShock Yeah I always end up refilling 5.5 quarts with the temp check. Was just curious what you had on yours. Thanks
Can you please tell me why it is necessary to get the transmission fluid to that exact temperature range when checking the level? Is it just due to the expansion of the fluid, or do valves or something of that sort have to open (like the thermostat in the engine) inside the transmission?
The ATF level rises, up to a point, as the transaxle or transmission heats up and pressures reach optimum levels. That's why GM requires the level be checked only at that point.
@@DrShock Thanks for taking the time to reply. Another question...I changed the transmission fluid in my Cruze around two months ago. Thought I had the fluid at the proper level (have not noticed any leaks). Seems to be shifting as well as before (it never did shift particularly smoothly), but when I take my foot off the accelerator, I get kind of an engine-braking kind of sensation. When I gently apply the brakes it goes away. Thoughts?
Next to impossible to speculate on something like that. Many possibilities. Would need to hook up a scan tool and drive it with live data to diagnosis whether the torque converter is functioning properly.
Fair enough. Thanks for sharing your opinion.
@@DrShock
I own a 2016 Chevrolet Cruze Limited LT with 103,000 miles, I went to a dealership and was able to get a print out and the transmission in my vehicle is the 6T40 (MH8). My owner’s manual doesn’t list draining the transmission fluid under the “normal” maintenance schedule. Instead it lists draining the fluid every 45,000 miles under the severe schedule. So I am a little confused by what my manual states. I live in PA and it’s 30 miles each way to drive to and from work. The driving conditions are normal, as in no long periods of idling or start stops pretty much just driving non stop. I haven’t noticed any slipping or anything. So my question is would it be beneficial for me to have my transmission fluid changed?
GM has for years kept inching towards their concept of _"lifetime fluids"_ , so not surprising there would be differences in the 2016 owners manual maintenance schedules and the manuals even just 2 or 3 years earlier. But GM never defines how many years, or miles, is their view of _lifetime_ of a given vehicle. So it's really a question of _after how many years, or miles, is the owners manual maintenance schedule invalidated?_
I would go with what the model year manual for your vehicle suggests during the first decade and a half of the cars _life_ , as that would be what the GM engineers determined was necessary for proper maintenance for that given model year. And fifteen years is likely a close approximation of what GM considered a given vehicles _"life"_ . But after that time I would consider performing some maintenance tasks that went beyond the manuals schedule that would help the vehicle make it to its second, and perhaps third, decades of _life_ .
The Chevrolet owners manual for the particular vehicle shown in this video, called for the ATF to be changed at every 97.5K miles under the normal schedule, for comparison.
Did a fluid change last week on my 98 Astro transmission and rear differential at 297,000 miles. It was burnt looking 15 years ago.
@@DrShock Great reply, as a Ford owner they do the same thing, they claim transmission, PTU I have AWD and rear are lifetime fluids. I don't think so, any company that claims lifetime fluid, they just want you back in the dealer buying a car a few years sooner than you should be.
Does the Chevrolet Spin 2014 1.5 LTZ have the same Automatic Transmission Model?
Check the video description for the models that include this one
How many minutes in park did it take for that temp to climb from 31°C to 86°C?
Going to depend on the outside weather temperature but around 40 minutes as bes I recall. Much faster if you drive it with the scan tool plugged in.
Do you change transmission filter as well?
There is no service filter on this transaxle model. There is an internal screen, but that is deep inside and only replaced during a full rebuild.
Is it a 1.8L engine? May I know how much oil did you put in this transmission?
The vehicle in the video has the GM Ecotec 1.4L turbocharged engine. But since this is a transaxle (aka transmission) related vid, it doesn't matter which engine you have. Just which GM transaxle you have, which for this video would be the 6T40 / 6T45 family. The amount of ATF can vary vehicle to vehicle, so you have to use the scan tool method (hence this video). Even a 6oz mistake either way can cause shifting problems with these models.
@@DrShock I have a cruze 1.8L ECOTEC in Qatar. Do you have any idea which transmission is in 1.8L bro?
In Qatar no I wouldn't know, in the USA both the 1.4L and the 1.8L engines use a 6 speed automatic transaxle type. With the 1.8L typically paired to the 6T30 and the 1.4L the 6T40 for the model year range this video covers. The 6T30 is typically RPO MH9 in the USA.
@@DrShock Does both transmissions hold same amount of oil?
The _possible_ capacity range will be the same for all transaxle models this video covers. So the GM 6T30/6T40/6T45 and 6T50. However, the ATF fill will vary from vehicle to vehicle so there is no set fluid level for these models. It can range _anywhere_ from 4.2 quarts to 6.3 quarts. Which is exactly why you must follow this specific fill procedure to dial it in for the particular vehicle you are working on. Failure to follow this procedure will result in either an overfill, or an underfill, situation. Either of which situation can negatively affect this transaxle model family internally.
Can someone tell us how many minutes you have it on idle before achieving the right temperature?
You need to have a tool to measure the ATF temperature for your specific situation in to perform this procedure correctly. Too low, or too high, of an ATF level will lead to premature internal wear/failure on these GM transaxle/transmission models. How _long_ it takes to reach the service manual temperature will vary by your location specifics (ambient outside temperature and pressure during the procedure, ambient engine coolant temperature before starting the procedure).
What you can do for location conditions causing this to take an excessively long time (with the _initial_ refill level of ATF already added of course) is to intersperse some _low_ rpm revs and gear shifts. With *all four wheels* off the ground (to maintain the vehicle at level) running it in gear as well can speed the temperature climb somewhat.
For Chevrolet Cruze 2011 automatic which flude you recommend.
Dexron VI is what your owners manual recommends so that's what I recommend as well.
What about the torque converter, The fluid in there? Drive it and drain again?
Chevy wants $250.00 and more to do this on my 2016 Buick envision 2.0 turbo.
You cannot fully change the torque converter contents without disassembling the transmission, so this is not economical to be concerned with. The GM service manual does not call for multiple drain and drives to attempt this indirectly. Some folks like to do that approach anyway, but there's no factory recommendation to do so. The basic service manual procedure is all the engineers that designed the transmission recommend, anything more is just more.
The dealerships will sometimes charge to hook up a machine that does an ATF vacuum and flush procedure. Not required, and often a source of new problems on high mileage vehicle seals. But it is a faster approach, and thus more profitable for professional shops, than the manual procedure from the GM service manual shown here.
@@DrShock I enjoyed your video. I went to my dealer to inquire about a fluid change on my 2018 Cruze after watching your video, 50K on it. The part about using a scan tool and refill procedure scared me a bit. The service advisor said their transmission service on my car would include a machine that would vacuum and flush out all of the fluid, including what was in the torque converter. Is this possible? I have known this guy for a long time so I hope he is not trying to rip me off. Maybe he was mixing up the procedure on a Cruze with another vehicle. Dealer wants to charge $249 (Canadian) for this. Seems high but at least I will know it was done right.
A flush machine works thru the transaxle/transmission fluid fill opening. It is an alternative to the service manual procedure shown in this vid. For vehicles that do _not_ have a serviceable filter to replace, like the models in this video, it can be a lower cost alternative approach. For models _with_ a filter, there is no alternative to dropping the pan/pulling the covers off to access the filter.
Flushing is not the service manual procedure, as you now know from viewing the actual GM service manual in this video. But a transmission flush is fine for a newer low mileage vehicle imo. However, I would discourage their use on older high mileage vehicles. A full pan drop/or a drain plug drop and fill is less drama prone on an older high mileage vehicle. There is some risk, due to how the flush process works, of dislodging debris via backflow in higher mileage vehicles. Particularly those that have had poor or no servicing previously.
@@DrShock Thanks for response. So will this flush procedure also remove the fluid that is in the torque converter?
Is it possible the car has the temp on the dash readout,2013 regal 2.0 turbo I
Typically only trucks, and not even with all models, will have a transmission temperature readout on the instrument cluster. Usually this is a bi-directional scan tool, or suitable Bluetooth scan app like Torque, requirement to see.
Good evening this is Ms, Rodriguez from Brooklyn NY . I have a 2009 Malibu and since my mechanic changed the oir. I have problem with the transmission . it is not shifting smoothly , He used Valvoline ATF
Whats your mileage on your 09? 1st service or no,?
Valvoline are is fine along its dexron 6 compatible
I tried this at 40 degrees ambient temp and was unable to get transmission to temp at idle in park.
It would take a long while just idling to get there. What scan tool are you using to measure it?
This is my car a 2016 holden trax 1.4L exotec engine LTZ Turbo.. how hassle this vehicle’s transmission maintenance is
So why couldn’t you just do the drain stone cold, measure what comes out, then fill it with that exact amount?. No need to remove drain plug or warm it up etc..?
That would be the _shadetree_ way of doing it. And I've certainly done that route, especially for GM transaxle models where the level check plug is problematic to access without a lift. But it's not the _recommended_ way, and it won't catch the situation where you were already low on ATF to begin with. You'll freshen up what you had for sure, but may still be low which can lead to internal wear issues depending on how low it was/is.
@@DrShock yeah well…it’s never had a leak and I bought it brand new…otherwise yeah, I woulda gone thru the trouble..
@@xboxbml i just did my ford edge ..same exact deal… i have friend that is a pro..that is exactly what they do ..measure what came out a refill
Hi this transmission have a filter? Thanks
Yes an internal one, but as I mentioned in the vid you can only access it by removing the transmission from the engine/vehicle. It's not owner serviceable.
How long it took to reach 85*c (of idling) ?
At the end of the video he says 45 mins of idling, don't know but mine actually drops after drive and idle session.
Video @ 16.05
On step 12 says reinstall engine control module what is that about?
I mentioned this in the vid, as an optional step to gain more access to the fill port area for certain funnel shapes. I am using one that does not require removing the module.
Hello everyone, I am the owner of a 2015 Cruze LTZ, 1.4 turbo, I can’t warm up the box to 85-95 degrees, no matter how much I drive, I stand in drive mode, in general, I perform various manipulations that can raise the temperature, the maximum warms up to 80 degrees, but then quickly cools down. This is due to the fact that I have a transmission cooling radiator from the factory, however I need to find a way to heat my transmission to at least 85 degrees, can someone share?
due to incorrect oil level when the transmission warms up, I experience jolts when shifting gears
GM transaxles of this 6T series have a fluid cooler, and the GM service manual instructions included account for this in their stated temperature ranges. The service manual specifies a specific range for _operating temperature_ for this fill procedure of 85° - 95° C. I just pulled up the 2015 version of the manual and it's this exact same temperature range stated, which is including the cooler.
Aside from the method of getting the transaxle fluid up to temperature (a highway drive is the fastest way), what you are describing is more of a problem with the choice of scan tool and/or the PID involved. A GM MDI tool using ACDelco Techline Connect will provide a correct temperature rating every time. Unfortunately, aftermarket scan tools can be hit or miss depending on their level of quality and accuracy to the GM tooling. Some aftermarket scan tools either lack the transaxle temperature PID altogether, or report it inaccurately. Those tools that claim J-2534 compatibility should be OK.
Can you use any kind of scan tool on the car
Any that can read the transmission temperature PID. I believe from earlier comments some folks had success with the Torque Pro smartphone app coupled with a OBDII adapter, for example.
Do you know of one that you can manually turn on and off the fuel pump on a 2013 camaro? I'm needing to flush out 4 yr old gas.
Witam czy można do tej skrzyni wlać troche więcej oleju niż zalecane z korka kontrolnego ?
Przy tej transmisji trzeba uważać, aby nie przepełnić. Stąd ta procedura w filmie. Jeśli nie masz skanera, najlepszym rozwiązaniem jest zmierzenie tego, co spuściłeś i dodanie z powrotem dokładnie tej samej ilości.
@@DrShock a co się stanie jak ją nadleje 300 ml ?
To byłaby jedna trzecia kwarty amerykańskiej. Nie wystarczy wywołać cokolwiek znaczącego imo.
@@DrShock nie rozumiem :(
300 ml to niewielka nadwyżka i nie przejmowałbym się tym zbytnio, gdybyś po prostu włożył to. Jeśli włożysz 2X lub więcej, powinieneś wyciągnąć korek spustowy i spuścić nadmiar.
I don't have a scan tool,so approximately how long did it take it at idle to come up to the transmission temperature required ? Thank you
That time is inherently dependent on the weather, outside ambient temperature, and whether the vehicle has been driven prior. This video was done back in February during Winter, where the vehicle hadn't been driven, so it took quite awhile to get to the target fluid temperature. The same exact procedure on the same exact car in the Summer would be an order of magnitude difference in time.
I don't recall how long this one took, but there's no getting around having a scan tool for this procedure given how GM has designed it. You won't get the right fluid level reading without being in the right temperature range.
When folks don't have a scan tool, I recommend you just carefully measure the ATF you removed and add back exactly the same amount only. It's not the preferred method, but it's not going to get you overfilled. The risk is being underfilled with that route.
@@DrShock Ahh ok then,do u have a link for that scan tool you use or no, are they inexpensive? thank you for the info, im gonna do it this weekend
I'm using the GM dealership gear, which is on the more expensive side. The software can be rented over the weekend at www.acdelcotds.com. But the actual adapter from the laptop to the vehicle is a clone/knockoff of the GM MDI adapter - th-cam.com/video/pZfXuuzORZo/w-d-xo.html
There are some OBD2 Bluetooth type solutions that I mentioned in the video that might have this capability combined with the right smartphone app. One you might look into is Torque Pro.
@@DrShock Ahh very cool, ok i will have to figure out one of those solutions thanks,apreciate the response
is it necessary to change the filter in theese transmissions?
These models do not have an accessible fluid filter. It's only changed out during a full rebuild of the transaxle.
One day, someone is going to able to tell us how to get the temperature into appropriate range for checking transmission fluid.
No amount of highway driving or idling will get my Cruze into this this range.
( Checked with a scan tool.)
I suspect that the factory fitted oil cooler has something to do with this.
If any GM technician is willing to tell us how they do it during servicing, it would be very much appreciated.
Did it have a filter?
The transaxle models this vid covers do not have a serviceable filter. It would be located deep inside, and only replaced during a full overhaul/rebuild.
@@DrShock Thanks, I appreciate the reply.
Thank you for the videos….
Why can't you just measure how much you drained and then add that same amount?
Do you do that when changing the oil in an engine? The reason that's not a desirable approach, nor recommended by GM, is that what you drained out could have been overfilled or underfilled to begin with. Underfilled being the most concern, just like low oil in an engine, nothing good comes of that condition. IMO in a _pinch_ you could take that shortcut approach, and then in very short order go back and check the level correctly.
@DrShock my 2012 Buick LaCrosse 3.6L LFX has a dipstick which is part of the filler cap so somewhat different than your video anyway.
Totally different animal that this video wouldn't apply to. ;-)
Were you using a torque wrench to break bolts loose? Sure looks like one lol
Yeah reverse torque wrenches (bi-directional) are fine. A regular one can have the calibration degraded though so shouldn't be used for reverse.
Can i use a Termometer gun to measure the temp?
That won't really give you the fluid temperature, only the outside case temperature. If you don't have a scan tool that can measure the actual ATF temperature, I'd suggest you're better off just using the _replace what you drained_ method. Where you keep track of the amount of ATF drained and replace _only_ that exact same amount. Definitely not the ideal approach, but if followed precisely can do.
I ended up buying an OBD II scan, Torque Pro app, following your advice in the cheapest way possible. Can you please help find the correct [GM]Transmission Fluid Temp (GM Method. I saw that there are 3 methods but I don't know which one to choose according to my transmission and have the most accurate measurement possible@@DrShock
Not sure what you are referring to about _methods_ in this context. I've not used Torque Pro in many years, but there should be a PID (parameter ID) for the ATF temperature. It used to be under _manage extra pids_ or a similar menu option to add transmission temperature. If not, you might check with Torque Pro support on how to add this PID for a GM vehicle.
Since no filter or pan drop how about sucking fluid out of the fill plug?
Where is the transmission filter located on a 2016 Malibu ls
Sealed transmission, it’s inside , no way to replace it without overhaul
according to the procedure let it stream until drips before putting back the plug. You put it back while it's still streaming.
Dr shock just measure the fluid drained out pour in a gallon jug & measure exactly what to fill don't really need fancy complicated scanner
That's not a reliable approach. The fluid level on GM transaxles changes with temperature. The scanner is needed only to measure the temperature. If you do not do it the way I showed you, the official GM service manual procedure, then you run the _risk_ of overfilling or underfilling, either of which can internally damage a GM transaxle.
@DrShock How would you run the risk of overfilling/underfilling the transmission if you drain and refill the fluid? If you take out 4l and put 4l back in, there is no change in atf level?
Only in the fact that if the original condition was over/under you've maintained that _incorrect_ fill level with such an approach. If it were really that easy with no downside risks, don't you think GM would have written the procedure up that way to reduce their costs during warranty servicing? ;-)
@DrShock I'm thinking that if dealer is do transmission warranty work the fill time isn't much of a percentage of their time. My thinking is they might do it so they dealer has more billable time when doing non warranty maintenance. If the heat expansion is critical then why not a dipstck to check when 'hot' and back then there was a range on the dipstick. What's changed that transmissions are so critical to the slightest level difference. Seems to me we are going backwards. Same as all these vvt stuff now so critical on engine oil level and cleanliness. Make us an engine we can abuse lol.
I would use something other than my very expensive and calibrated torque wrench to loosen drain plugs.
That's why I use a _vintage_ Craftsman, they are American made inexpensive, durable, and do not snowflake out on you. A well made one should serve just fine for _occasionally_ loosening such 10mm or so low torque fasteners.
I know this is crazy but why could someone not invent a dipstick?
Some believe that GM discontinued dipsticks on transmissions in order to have the fluid service done by experienced personnel, using only the correct Dexron VI ATF, and set at the correct level by operating temperature _during the warranty period_ to avoid premature failures on their dime. Transmissions, and transaxles, are far more complex now with very tight manufacturing tolerances that do not survive long with the fluid either over or under filled. Easy enough to do yourself though once the vehicle is out of factory warranty, as I've shown here
@@DrShock The reason i say this is because my wife's friend left her car at my house and went shopping in my wife's car. Her husband called me and said there was some fluid on the garage floor where her car sits. Could you look at it. I go look and the transmission vent had unscrewed. I called him and told him the problem but i had no way of knowing how much fluid was missing. Was it missing a quart, 2, 3, empty, who knows without a dipstick. Since i did not know, I put in 1/2 quart and drove it to the jiffy lube.
Also next step just open fill bolt check if it drips add fluid as needed
Only accurate if performed within a specific fluid temperature range as specified by GM.
What about laser temp sensor on pan?
Can't get trans temp even close to 75
It can take awhile if the transmission was cold this time of year. It can also be approached in the other direction of course, and tackle this after a warm up drive waiting for the transmission to instead cool down closer to the target temperature rather than warm up.
slowly along in 2nd and 3rd is best apparently, that way there isn't much air cooling. I have a couple of small hills around, so just up and down these got it to 90'C no problem. This was after draining and filling up the amount that came out. It was spot on the level no problem, good to check.
You can get the full GDS2 software and hardware package from china for around 200 USD.
Ok shade tree mechanics, Instead of all that temp BS, just put back in the same amount you removed. HOWEVER, be aware that if you were low to begin with you'll STILL be low. So if your Trans is leaking then you must use the check plug method.
Might have put the drain plug too soon instruction says wait till drips not a steady stream. But honestly I think it will be fine. The instructions are a little overkill like you’re making a Swiss timepiece
11mm not 12mm
GM does not typically use 11mm fasteners for this, so that may be aftermarket replacement. Or it could just be a variance in GM production not called out in the service manual.
roger that..... GM used 11mm on my 2012. had it since new. js. thanks
There is an easier way. If your transmission is not leaking or in bad shape, measure carefully everything you took out and replace it with the same amount. No need to do all the operating temp BS and pulling out the plug.
It should be pointed out that such an approach will *not* correct a _pre-existing_ low, or overfilled, ATF condition. Either of which will negatively affect the lifespan of these GM transmission models in short order. It's not _that bad_ to do this suggestion in a pinch, or temporarily, but that it does always carry that risk of hiding a real problem.
Had a cooler line fail on my Encore and pretty much dumped all the fluid out and never had a sign of an issue while driving. Sure hope I didn't cook the transmission. 2017 encore awd.
I agree with all of this, however I would drain and fill twice (so be sure to buy nine quarts) and drive for 5-10mins in between each drain and fill.
And FYI it takes FOREVER to get the trans up to temp especially if it under 50 degrees.
Yep, that temp is a slow slow walk even when it's warmer out. I'd only point out that you can never get a _full_ flush done as the torque converter will hold onto several quarts no matter what you do with the transmission still installed to the engine. But diluting the worn out fluid with new is the goal in order to refresh the lubricant back to a younger average state of chemistry.