Just an FYI you can go to s&s electric and buy the copper winding to rebuild your solenoid. Mine shorted in the windings too and I just went in there and got the materials. It was cheap so now I have a spare I keep in the glove box.
arp lube on both side of the washer is wrong ,it makes the washer to spin on the head and act like a bearing You want the washer to not move at torquing stages. On our build we sandpaper the washer side which sits on the head with a 60 grit paper
@@onebads2kracing yeap. i read the arp instructions and also i spoke with an Arp technician once about that issue,i didnt get a solid answer from him. Only thing he said is that the washer must not spinning when torquing down I white marked down a washer with arp lube on both sides,and it was spinning a lot ,on all stages of torque After that i never use arp lube the site which sits on the head
Just an FYI you can go to s&s electric and buy the copper winding to rebuild your solenoid. Mine shorted in the windings too and I just went in there and got the materials. It was cheap so now I have a spare I keep in the glove box.
Nice! Ya I ended up getting the new FTI can one no more set screws lol better design.
@onebads2kracing cool, yeah those set screws suck lol
Did you resurface the head or block or just put in a new headgasket?
It never over heated so it’s not as nessasary. But I do advise to at least get it checked.
Head is also only 7 months old since last deck.
Im stuck with either puting hondabond where the chain is or should it be around the head
Follow manual, it’s iist where the chain is only
hey can you tell me what kind of hex heads did you use for the bolts :)
Hex head? For which bolts
To remove the engine head cover and tighten the arp struts
I mean the brand i dont wanna spend money on bootleg
@@onebads2kracing.
arp lube on both side of the washer is wrong ,it makes the washer to spin on the head and act like a bearing
You want the washer to not move at torquing stages.
On our build we sandpaper the washer side which sits on the head with a 60 grit paper
Interesting I’ve never done that I’ve always done both sides for every stud I’ve every installed.
If you read arp instructions they will tell you to lube both sides of the washers. So that’s what I’ve always done.
@@onebads2kracing yeap.
i read the arp instructions and also i spoke with an Arp technician once about that issue,i didnt get a solid answer from him. Only thing he said is that the washer must not spinning when torquing down
I white marked down a washer with arp lube on both sides,and it was spinning a lot ,on all stages of torque
After that i never use arp lube the site which sits on the head
Interesting well
Maybe the next time I do a HG I’ll
Try this I appreciate the comment!
@@onebads2kracing enginelabs has an article about that issue.
Lets hope you never lose a hg again
Btw your car is a beast
Did you use arp lube on both sides of the head studs?
No the block side is dry.
@@onebads2kracingI’m having issues lining up my camshafts how did you fix your issue
Just have to keep playing with it till you get the teeth correct
@@onebads2kracing ok also did you line them up and torque them down first then use the tensioner?
Where did you install the coolant pressure sensor
Inline with the coolant hose