Loving the documentation and attention to detail 1. Like others have said. Direct spark from the get go is the most simple way to go. You’re going to save yourself some headaches there. 2. The bac valve will most definitely work. I don’t remember the hz you need off the top of my head but I know for sure it works 3.the tach signal can be found either behind the cluster or the Y/L wire by the trailing coils. Just wire in one of the aux outputs to it and you’re good to go. If I were you I’d definitely go with all new wires. This way it eliminates all those 30 year old crusty wires.
Where are you two getting your Data. I have not dabbled in doing JDM cars in a good while. I am going to be making a purchase of RX 7 here in the next few months and am looking to inform myself as much as possible. Any links you have found good will be such a help to me.
This is great timing, I just began the process of installing individual throttle bodies and a microsquirt ecu on my S4 NA! I’m also going to be retaining the CAS, but I’ll be using individual coil packs for ignition. Excited to see how your install goes!
Im building a drift car out of my turbo fc3s and I found your conten awesome. Im also going to use Link to build my new Ecu system. I build harneses just have never build one for a car. Its been some time hows it going ?
People claim mechanical slop in gears of CAS can cause inaccuracies in timing reported to ECU when at higher RPMs. I’ve never seen any evidence of that though. The Hall Effect sensor does provide a pretty clean signal to the ECU. Haltech has some good videos on that. Timing could really mess up an engine but that’s a bigger concern for engines seeing higher loads. Plus converting to the trigger wheel requires removing A/C and PS from the FC. No thanks.
Great question. I could fill a complete video on that one. Originally I was planning on a Haltech. And, for what it's worth, that's also why it took me so long to finally do it. The Haltech price tag was just high enough to make me look for ways to make the stock ecu work. I wish I would have found the Link a year ago, because I would have jumped on it sooner. Link was about half the money with great features, support, and software. After playing with both the Haltech and the Link tuning software, I might say I like the Haltech software a little better, but definitely not enough to really matter. Other than that, I think it's Link all the way. Of course you realize this is coming from someone who is now faced with a confirmation bias because the decision is made and from someone who has never monkeyed with a Haltech, so...
if it were me id just wire it up as direct spark from the beginning and replace all of the coils, youre rewiring it already, you may aswell. all the info and wiring diagrams you need are in the PCLink help menu.
Loving the documentation and attention to detail
1. Like others have said. Direct spark from the get go is the most simple way to go. You’re going to save yourself some headaches there.
2. The bac valve will most definitely work. I don’t remember the hz you need off the top of my head but I know for sure it works
3.the tach signal can be found either behind the cluster or the Y/L wire by the trailing coils. Just wire in one of the aux outputs to it and you’re good to go.
If I were you I’d definitely go with all new wires. This way it eliminates all those 30 year old crusty wires.
Thanks for the suggestions. And thanks for tuning in!
Where are you two getting your Data. I have not dabbled in doing JDM cars in a good while. I am going to be making a purchase of RX 7 here in the next few months and am looking to inform myself as much as possible. Any links you have found good will be such a help to me.
Really nice im working my self on a 85 rx7 fb with a s4 6 port turbo controlled by Haltech sprint re i love my Rotary brap brap
It's a strange addiction to be sure!
This is great timing, I just began the process of installing individual throttle bodies and a microsquirt ecu on my S4 NA! I’m also going to be retaining the CAS, but I’ll be using individual coil packs for ignition. Excited to see how your install goes!
Install went great. That video is also posted on the channel. Hopefully it's helpful to you.
Good luck with yours!
Im building a drift car out of my turbo fc3s and I found your conten awesome. Im also going to use Link to build my new Ecu system. I build harneses just have never build one for a car. Its been some time hows it going ?
It's going very well, thank you! th-cam.com/play/PL4ZUWGjvjqbIIaiH_Tg9gaRJk4SGFhe0v.html
get the full function racing trigger wheel kit, use a hall sensor. but it kinda requires u to get the atkins sepentine belt pulley kit tho.
I'm a little conflicted on the hall effect sensor approach. Is it really worth it? Is it really "better?" I'm curious to know why you suggest it?
People claim mechanical slop in gears of CAS can cause inaccuracies in timing reported to ECU when at higher RPMs. I’ve never seen any evidence of that though. The Hall Effect sensor does provide a pretty clean signal to the ECU. Haltech has some good videos on that. Timing could really mess up an engine but that’s a bigger concern for engines seeing higher loads. Plus converting to the trigger wheel requires removing A/C and PS from the FC. No thanks.
Why not a haltech
pros and cons point towards link as well as tuning capability, price, and expandability
Great question. I could fill a complete video on that one. Originally I was planning on a Haltech. And, for what it's worth, that's also why it took me so long to finally do it. The Haltech price tag was just high enough to make me look for ways to make the stock ecu work. I wish I would have found the Link a year ago, because I would have jumped on it sooner. Link was about half the money with great features, support, and software. After playing with both the Haltech and the Link tuning software, I might say I like the Haltech software a little better, but definitely not enough to really matter. Other than that, I think it's Link all the way. Of course you realize this is coming from someone who is now faced with a confirmation bias because the decision is made and from someone who has never monkeyed with a Haltech, so...
if it were me id just wire it up as direct spark from the beginning and replace all of the coils, youre rewiring it already, you may aswell. all the info and wiring diagrams you need are in the PCLink help menu.
Thanks for the feedback!