@@MrToddgibbs Production has improved over time, wonder how far you'd be if you didn't need to setup camera for the jobs embarked on Amazing effort in recording your restoration, and for others to not make same mistakes that you seem almost on purpose point out to us ;) , we both seem to have a knack when choosing a path the wrong one is usually taken I am a little worn out now 96 Vids over a few weeks, glad you are not making 4 a day
Filming the vidoes doesn't add too much time, editing takes a little bit but not anything crazy. Yes, I seem to hunt out the incorrect ways, but its from those that you learn, which is why I highlight them. I get a lot of messages from people 'binge watching' the series, but never 96 in such a short time - you deserve a medal :) How about now getting one of your cars up and running while you wait for this next episode ?
When you work on electrical plugs try using a 2mm oil passage brush to clean out the female sockets. I put it on a drill and clean out each socket, it gets out all the corrosion.
@@MrToddgibbs have you checked the handbrake switch? Might be worth a quick look…. It is just a basic earth switch and if it’s corroded or misaligned (or the connection is dodgy) the car will think the handbrake is on and that red light will be lit.
Very cool systematic analysis of each circuit. I enjoyed that. I also enjoy hearing you speak. The words you choose to speak are rare these days! Very neat to hear.
The body is the easy part… I just pay someone to do it. The important and interesting stuff is underneath it :). It does look bad, but I’ll be happy when the car is mechanically solid and reliable. Then I will sort the bodywork :)
Nice job! Glad to see you tracked it down. I still say if/when you are ready, replace wiring harness and 14-pin connector. A fresh harness and connectors may eliminate many electrical gremlins. Check/clean all grounds, as well, if you haven’t already.
Hi David. Wiring loom/harness didn’t look too bad, so I kept it. Will replace if it starts to play up. The 14pin definitely need to go, just a matter of when :)
Fog lights...before you dig to deep...check the wire harness plugs for the fog lights in the front wheel wings...I had the same issue with one light out, checked continuity on the bulbs, ground and voltage to the lights ...found there was no power going to it, followed the wiring harness to find a plug inside the front wing disconnected or loosely connected. Same as you with the brake light, sometimes I go to deep before checking the simplest solution ...lol
Great stuff Todd, another 'winning' vid. If you haven't chased all the earth points and given them a clean up, it might be worth doing even as good preventive maintenance. Top tip: Fit new bulbs everywhere! 😊 Sort of pulling your leg on that one, but I'm sure you know where I'm coming from. It might be worthwhile too, to keep the battery on charge all the time, if you don't already. All obvious things I know, still no harm in mentioning it all the same. What I would strongly advise is when you start the car from cold let it heat up, the quicker the better as it's got the old CIS and those systems tend to operate very rich prior to max engine temperature. Doing that just may avoid some bore wash.
@@MrToddgibbs The fuel pump is working, even though I have already bought a new one, I just need to connect it directly to the battery. I think if I remove all the relays and give them a good clean like you did, then most of my issues will be solved :-)
Todd, i swear we must have the same car. i recently did some vacuum leaks checks, and some AFR adjustment, and I've found that when the fuel relay is connected, i get a no-start condition. If I take it out, the car cranks just fine. If i jump the 30 & 87 pin on the fuel relay, the car starts and runs just fine. So, maybe check that one too and just replace. I've seen on some threads that the fuel pump is actually supposed to run for a second as soon as the key is in and put to position 2 or 3, but it doesnt prime if the relay is dodgy or failing. It sounded like yours IS doing that, but may just check..
I want to add here that: when the fuel relay is connected, "sometime" i get a no-start condition. it's intermittent. sometimes the car will crank and work on the first try, and sometimes it just wont crank at all. sometimes it'll crank once, but then never again. very strange, and perhaps you have some ideas on that.
Hi Jonathan - strange. My issue appears to have been dirty contacts on the fuel pump relay. No issues since cleaning…. But you never know for sure. Maybe yours is same issue OR dirty internal contacts inside the relay…. Search on rennlist for how to clean. Good luck
HiDiego, I think I have a spare ignition switch now you mention it! there is a box of goodies that was in the back of the car that Im slowly going through.
@@MrToddgibbs pretty similar, mate ... thanks for asking, though. ... Got to say, that I think that in my case it truly is the starter. There is a light thunk when I do turn the key ... that said ... just watched a good little video (ClLTyu1pEmc) on starters and solenoids. Really useful ... and makes me think I have at least a bad solenoid, maybe a bad starter. That engine don't half get hot ... so it has *definitely* fucked with the starter ... but ... yeah ... I've had a right lovely fiddle with a couple of relays tonight. :). Anyway ... I will be doing a similar thing to your window vid soon with my passenger window. (I've got a LHD '78 manual) ... ... honestly ... I just want more places to drive to ... NW London (middlesex ...) is sooooooooooooo boring.
@@MrToddgibbs mine is a little different being early 78. If all my warning lights are out and I have the parking brake off then I step on the brake and my central light goes out. I took mine out for its first 7 miles drive today. It did great!
Ah at the video (again) that started my 92 other video binge, what a journey you've taken us on
How was it, watching all together? I feel like the overall approach is the same but (hopefully) the quality improved
@@MrToddgibbs Production has improved over time, wonder how far you'd be if you didn't need to setup camera for the jobs embarked on
Amazing effort in recording your restoration, and for others to not make same mistakes that you seem almost on purpose point out to us ;) , we both seem to have a knack when choosing a path the wrong one is usually taken
I am a little worn out now 96 Vids over a few weeks, glad you are not making 4 a day
Filming the vidoes doesn't add too much time, editing takes a little bit but not anything crazy.
Yes, I seem to hunt out the incorrect ways, but its from those that you learn, which is why I highlight them.
I get a lot of messages from people 'binge watching' the series, but never 96 in such a short time - you deserve a medal :) How about now getting one of your cars up and running while you wait for this next episode ?
When you work on electrical plugs try using a 2mm oil passage brush to clean out the female sockets. I put it on a drill and clean out each socket, it gets out all the corrosion.
hi Dan, Great idea ! I'll see if I can grab one...
Good work Todd! That major warning light might just be your handbrake switch... If the handbrake was on when you started it the light will be on :)
hey!, unfortunately the handbrake is off :(
@@MrToddgibbs have you checked the handbrake switch? Might be worth a quick look…. It is just a basic earth switch and if it’s corroded or misaligned (or the connection is dodgy) the car will think the handbrake is on and that red light will be lit.
yeah, the handbrake switch was sticking,... but its free now.
@@MrToddgibbs aha! I look forward to when you figure out the cause of the warning light in that case, my money was on the handbrake switch! :)
Lol thanks. Just need to work out how to track it down!
Very cool systematic analysis of each circuit. I enjoyed that.
I also enjoy hearing you speak. The words you choose to speak are rare these days! Very neat to hear.
Thanks Andy. :)
Pleased to see you are fixing the important things and leaving the body au naturel
The body is the easy part… I just pay someone to do it. The important and interesting stuff is underneath it :). It does look bad, but I’ll be happy when the car is mechanically solid and reliable. Then I will sort the bodywork :)
Nice job! Glad to see you tracked it down. I still say if/when you are ready, replace wiring harness and 14-pin connector. A fresh harness and connectors may eliminate many electrical gremlins. Check/clean all grounds, as well, if you haven’t already.
Hi David. Wiring loom/harness didn’t look too bad, so I kept it. Will replace if it starts to play up. The 14pin definitely need to go, just a matter of when :)
Fog lights...before you dig to deep...check the wire harness plugs for the fog lights in the front wheel wings...I had the same issue with one light out, checked continuity on the bulbs, ground and voltage to the lights ...found there was no power going to it, followed the wiring harness to find a plug inside the front wing disconnected or loosely connected. Same as you with the brake light, sometimes I go to deep before checking the simplest solution ...lol
Ah good call, thanks. I was actually going to check the bulb this time ;)
Great stuff Todd, another 'winning' vid.
If you haven't chased all the earth points and given them a clean up, it might be worth doing even as good preventive maintenance. Top tip: Fit new bulbs everywhere! 😊 Sort of pulling your leg on that one, but I'm sure you know where I'm coming from. It might be worthwhile too, to keep the battery on charge all the time, if you don't already. All obvious things I know, still no harm in mentioning it all the same. What I would strongly advise is when you start the car from cold let it heat up, the quicker the better as it's got the old CIS and those systems tend to operate very rich prior to max engine temperature. Doing that just may avoid some bore wash.
Thank John. All good points! I keep teaming to have all the relays out and clean them like the starter relay.
@@MrToddgibbs Easy for me to preach...my old project car would no doubt agree! Ha, ha.
Its super useful having people like you around to help keep me honest :) Appreciate the help :)
Good work Todd... I have a few electrical gremlins to sort out myself, lights, fuel pump, etc.
Hey Neil, those sound relatively major (fuel pump) :)
@@MrToddgibbs The fuel pump is working, even though I have already bought a new one, I just need to connect it directly to the battery. I think if I remove all the relays and give them a good clean like you did, then most of my issues will be solved :-)
Directly to battery sounds bad... :) yeah clean those relays (I still haven't done all mine!). Thanks for watching :)
No matter how many issues and gremlins you have, be grateful you don't have a Rover SD1 😪
Lol are they worse? I do feel like I’m digging myself out of this restoration hole.
Nice work Todd. 👍
Thanks Michael
Great work again. Keep it up.
Thanks ! :)
Todd, i swear we must have the same car. i recently did some vacuum leaks checks, and some AFR adjustment, and I've found that when the fuel relay is connected, i get a no-start condition. If I take it out, the car cranks just fine. If i jump the 30 & 87 pin on the fuel relay, the car starts and runs just fine. So, maybe check that one too and just replace. I've seen on some threads that the fuel pump is actually supposed to run for a second as soon as the key is in and put to position 2 or 3, but it doesnt prime if the relay is dodgy or failing. It sounded like yours IS doing that, but may just check..
I want to add here that: when the fuel relay is connected, "sometime" i get a no-start condition. it's intermittent. sometimes the car will crank and work on the first try, and sometimes it just wont crank at all. sometimes it'll crank once, but then never again. very strange, and perhaps you have some ideas on that.
Hi Jonathan - strange. My issue appears to have been dirty contacts on the fuel pump relay. No issues since cleaning…. But you never know for sure. Maybe yours is same issue OR dirty internal contacts inside the relay…. Search on rennlist for how to clean. Good luck
Ignition key, one of the bad problems I know about. Replace the whole thing.
HiDiego, I think I have a spare ignition switch now you mention it! there is a box of goodies that was in the back of the car that Im slowly going through.
This *literally* just started happening to me.
SO frustrating!
Hoping it is a short.
Oh damn. What are the symptoms ?
@@MrToddgibbs pretty similar, mate ... thanks for asking, though. ... Got to say, that I think that in my case it truly is the starter. There is a light thunk when I do turn the key ... that said ... just watched a good little video (ClLTyu1pEmc) on starters and solenoids. Really useful ... and makes me think I have at least a bad solenoid, maybe a bad starter. That engine don't half get hot ... so it has *definitely* fucked with the starter ... but ... yeah ... I've had a right lovely fiddle with a couple of relays tonight. :).
Anyway ... I will be doing a similar thing to your window vid soon with my passenger window. (I've got a LHD '78 manual) ...
... honestly ... I just want more places to drive to ... NW London (middlesex ...) is sooooooooooooo boring.
Make sure battery is 100% charged. Mine does same when it’s not quite there.
Welcome to drive out here in Oxford. It’s a decent run
@@MrToddgibbs Ooh, will do ... I mean ... the rest of the electrics are there ... but I'll give that a go ... will wap out the charger now!
Another great vid
Thanks :)
More things ticked off, got a bit sketchy with the jump lead on the jump post. Thought you were about to weld it to the wing.
I laughed reading this in the local supermarket :) I didn’t even think of that… how close was I? I daren’t look
Step on the brake and the central light should go out.
It doesn’t unfortunately- any idea what it would be ?
@@MrToddgibbs mine is a little different being early 78. If all my warning lights are out and I have the parking brake off then I step on the brake and my central light goes out. I took mine out for its first 7 miles drive today. It did great!
Fantastic, are you UK or US?
Surely red is port (left) and green is starboard (right)?
Yes, that’s exactly right :)
@@MrToddgibbs when I saw you connecting them the other way to start with I just thought Porsche went against nautical convention 😂
Apparently not :) I still don't know how I messed up.
@@MrToddgibbs at least yours both go up and down!
How much are those 14 pin connectors to buy ?
I’m not sure to be honest.