On my 455s, I use an adjustable Kenne Bell cap and a spring that gives me 75lb+ cold at 3000rpm and that way I have 60psi+ at 5500. Have killed some T/A grooved cam bearings, but the rods and mains always look minty fresh. Sometimes the idle pressure is 20-25lb when really hot at idle in gear, with 10w-30 oil. My point is, your "60" cold on the stand may be only 45 hot at rpm, but I'm not as experienced with race 340/350s. Love your channel and the Buick knowledge!!
I've always had a soft spot for the underdog and I think it's super cool when someone does the job with an underdog, Buick is a solid platform but in the modern world of performance engines Buick isn't at the top of the go to list but in the right hands it can be formidable platform, the big down side of Buick engines is there proclivity for snapping drivetrain in heavy vehicals... Big TQ + Traction = broken parts and sadness. Being a fan of the underdog is why I have not jumped on the LS or coyote bandwagon, well the coyote is not in my financial or technological grasps regardless. I remember back in the day reading the magazines saying really another SBC build... No I see a SBC build I'm like sweet! hell yeah... Funny how things change. When I see SBC drag car shuts down an LS car an angel gets it's wings! That billy the kid kicks some serious ass with a 406 SBC in his s10 now that's cool.
Take off the cap for your oil pressure spring, file it perfectly flat drill a 3/8 hole dead center or whatever hole to tap to 3/8. Get a 3/8 set screw a good flat machine washer and a copper or nylon ceiling washer make sure the nut is a nyloc. And voila you just made yourself the TA adjustable regulator for a couple dollars at the hardware store.
That red is pretty. It's crazy the casting how off it is. That's really nice porting. So the compression fittings I don't trust. I think I would have put AN or JIC and of course drill the ANs and put pipe thread sealer on the threads. Buick had it man, everything is accessible and build gobs of torque. Too bad they stopped. Watching your vids reminds me of my first Pontiac motor. Maybe one day I'll share that story. Thank you for the vid🍻
I always use loctite on npt threads when used for oil or fuel. When I worked for a trucking company that hauled diesel and gasoline we had to use red anaerobic sealant on everything, which is loctite.
its about time someone built a proper Buick 350 small block v8 with go fast goodies! "SEMA"(the only aftermarket support as of 2023 is:TA Performance in AZ..)has seriously neglected this Buick SB V8 engine sadly(supple and demand rules thee economy...✌)..
That oil pan looks like it took some real effort. I used Penngrade 1 to break-in the cam on my FE a few months ago. No real complaints at all. That stuff should have plenty of zinc to get the job done.
I never really had any issues with the oil. I thought things went fine. Just had issues with the engine. I'm certain it was not the oil. Just to be safe, I never used it again.
Thats not possible. The relief is set to 62 pounds in this case. The engine will warm up and oil pressure will drop at idle, but the relief pressure will remain the same.
That's not a fuel line, but an oil system balance tube. It feeds from the front of the block at the pump to the rear of the block to the main oil galley ensuring there is plenty of oil in the main by feeding it from both ends creating a loop system instead of the OEM dead head oil system.
Guys are giving me a hard time for this choice in this line. You are the only one that seems to see, it's not a problem. Air compressors are plumbed with this stuff and have 150 PSI of air in them. They vibrate all over the place and there are few that have issues with the lines breaking. I'm keeping it.
@@mr.roddersneighborhood2740 I’ve had my on for 5 years with no issues at all, I read somewhere that they do it a lot in Alaska because the copper doesn’t rust away
Bringing out them big bux for the royal purple! Talk about pain in the ass welding on that oil pan. You have no leaks. I CALL THAT A SUCCESS! But that harmonic tho..... Someone someone shelled out the dollas for that bad boi!
Nice to see a Buick 350 getting worked on. Good to prelube the oiling system but running a drill at 700 rpm or so and doing any adjustment of the oil pressure by changing the pressure springs means almost nothing. Until the engine is in the car and thoroughly warmed up and is actually hitting some rpm, then you can get an idea of what the pressure will be and adjust it from there. Normally I rotate the engine a few times to let the oil get into all the bearings on the crank while running the drill. Saw plenty of cam break-in lube on the lifters but where was it on the cam lobes?
Running a drill at 700 RPM is equal to 1400 engine RPM. Setting the spring relief pressure is exactly what I was doing. That means the spring will relieve at that pressure no matter what, cold or hot so your argument is incorrect. There was plenty of cam lube on the cam and rotating the engine is why you feel there was not much there. The lifters wipe it off every pass on the cam. Hopefully this 350 can live up to expectations and I’m hoping for 500hp to be somewhat competitive in SEGA Super Stock.
I went through 4 Buick 350s before I put a Chevy 355 sbc in my Apollo then I finally got tired of playing with carburetors and put a LS 5.3 in her and finally got the itch for boost and put a ls3 headed 370” lq9 with a nice cam and LSA supercharger…….7 engines later and I think I’ve finally figured it out!!!!
@@trentdawg2832 it sure sounds.like you got figured.out ...why 4 buick engines...mine.has 67k but.sat along time under a.pine tree ...its a early 73..it does run good ..id like to wake it up a little..
@@artjones2498 I was very rough with my shit in my younger days…..we are talking over a 25yr period…….buick engines are very expensive to hop up and far and few In between
Love the content, quick question 🙋♂️ do you happen to know anyone that works on Buicks in the PNW? I Live in portland and would appreciate a true buick enthusiast to rebuild my motor. If not I did want to inquire what a stock rebuild would cost. I’ve been struggling to make my mind up lol but I want to commit to either
Is poston enterprises still in business or TA performance….I know them intakes cost a small fortune…….20yrs ago, couldn’t tell ya what they go for now!!!
By Apollo, you mean the 5000 GT I’m hoping, not the 1973 Buick version correct? If so, it was the exact car used in the movie “The Love Bug” with Dean Jones and Buddy Havket. It used the 215 Buick for the first couple of years and then the 300 Buick known as the 355 Wildcat in later years.
The way this works is that I was setting the oil pressure bypass relief, Not setting oil pressure. It’s a common misconception that many people have commented on. A Buick generally has a large variation in pressure at idle from hot to cold and most of it is due to the Volume of which the pump can flow and the expansion of the timing cover… this opens clearances within the pump and bleeds off oil pressure. By setting the bypass at a known pressure, it will limit max oil pressure.
You cant accurately adjust oil pressure with the engine on the stand. The reason is with the engine running and parts moving, the pressure will be lower due to the oil being slung off journals.
I'm not adjusting oil pressure, I'm adjusting the pressure at which the relief opens. It does not depend wether its cold or warm oil that much, as much as I'm looking at what pressure the relief valve opens. With the larger volume of this oiling system, the operating pressure will increase since the volume of the oil pressure regulator remained the same. It's a pressure vs volume thing called Boyles law. I explain this in the video where I'm building the timing cover for this engine.
That’s sad to hear, so I went over and checked out your channel so I could see what an awesome channel looks like… tweeker videos and other trash videos, none of them related to car stuff, so you must be an expert automotive journalist and your judgement means everything to me. Have a nice day Kandy!
On my 455s, I use an adjustable Kenne Bell cap and a spring that gives me 75lb+ cold at 3000rpm and that way I have 60psi+ at 5500. Have killed some T/A grooved cam bearings, but the rods and mains always look minty fresh. Sometimes the idle pressure is 20-25lb when really hot at idle in gear, with 10w-30 oil. My point is, your "60" cold on the stand may be only 45 hot at rpm, but I'm not as experienced with race 340/350s. Love your channel and the Buick knowledge!!
I've always had a soft spot for the underdog and I think it's super cool when someone does the job with an underdog, Buick is a solid platform but in the modern world of performance engines Buick isn't at the top of the go to list but in the right hands it can be formidable platform, the big down side of Buick engines is there proclivity for snapping drivetrain in heavy vehicals... Big TQ + Traction = broken parts and sadness. Being a fan of the underdog is why I have not jumped on the LS or coyote bandwagon, well the coyote is not in my financial or technological grasps regardless. I remember back in the day reading the magazines saying really another SBC build... No I see a SBC build I'm like sweet! hell yeah... Funny how things change. When I see SBC drag car shuts down an LS car an angel gets it's wings! That billy the kid kicks some serious ass with a 406 SBC in his s10 now that's cool.
I’m old enough to remember a stock Buick 350ci motor in a Buick GS with a bottle of nitrous oxide was taking down big blocks.
Take off the cap for your oil pressure spring, file it perfectly flat drill a 3/8 hole dead center or whatever hole to tap to 3/8. Get a 3/8 set screw a good flat machine washer and a copper or nylon ceiling washer make sure the nut is a nyloc. And voila you just made yourself the TA adjustable regulator for a couple dollars at the hardware store.
That red is pretty. It's crazy the casting how off it is. That's really nice porting. So the compression fittings I don't trust. I think I would have put AN or JIC and of course drill the ANs and put pipe thread sealer on the threads. Buick had it man, everything is accessible and build gobs of torque. Too bad they stopped. Watching your vids reminds me of my first Pontiac motor. Maybe one day I'll share that story. Thank you for the vid🍻
I always use loctite on npt threads when used for oil or fuel. When I worked for a trucking company that hauled diesel and gasoline we had to use red anaerobic sealant on everything, which is loctite.
Great info thanks!
I really like the name. You really are determined to improve the reliability of the Buick engine.
its about time someone built a proper Buick 350 small block v8 with go fast goodies!
"SEMA"(the only aftermarket support as of 2023 is:TA Performance in AZ..)has seriously neglected this Buick SB V8 engine sadly(supple and demand rules thee economy...✌)..
Very nice looking engine Dallas.
Nice work on the manifold
Take care, Ed.
Looking great mate. 👍
That oil pan looks like it took some real effort.
I used Penngrade 1 to break-in the cam on my FE a few months ago. No real complaints at all. That stuff should have plenty of zinc to get the job done.
I never really had any issues with the oil. I thought things went fine. Just had issues with the engine. I'm certain it was not the oil. Just to be safe, I never used it again.
Wow ! That oil pan took some serious thought and fabrication!
Great video.Can't wait to hear and see it run.
My 64 Buick Skylark I had in the mid 70s had this 350 and the 2 speed auto and I put a RV cam in it and it ran very good.
That is a beautiful engine Dallas!
The oil is Cold will once it warms up you will get a true pressure reading. In fact it might be less than the spring rating.
Thats not possible. The relief is set to 62 pounds in this case. The engine will warm up and oil pressure will drop at idle, but the relief pressure will remain the same.
Looks like it just might be a screamer Mr. Brown! Pretty cool!
I love that fuel line!
That's not a fuel line, but an oil system balance tube. It feeds from the front of the block at the pump to the rear of the block to the main oil galley ensuring there is plenty of oil in the main by feeding it from both ends creating a loop system instead of the OEM dead head oil system.
@@mr.roddersneighborhood2740 oh...now I get it. I had to rewatch and slow down a bit. I was trying to catch up on all I missed this week.
As a plumber I approve of the copper lines….I ran the same thing for my transmission cooler lines…..just in 3/8”
Guys are giving me a hard time for this choice in this line. You are the only one that seems to see, it's not a problem. Air compressors are plumbed with this stuff and have 150 PSI of air in them. They vibrate all over the place and there are few that have issues with the lines breaking. I'm keeping it.
@@mr.roddersneighborhood2740 I’ve had my on for 5 years with no issues at all, I read somewhere that they do it a lot in Alaska because the copper doesn’t rust away
Good stuff! I can't wait to see how it runs..
You and me both!
Hey buddy👍🏼 you doing very well here ..
I’m doing very similar but with a little bit less drilling 😬
Bringing out them big bux for the royal purple! Talk about pain in the ass welding on that oil pan. You have no leaks. I CALL THAT A SUCCESS! But that harmonic tho..... Someone someone shelled out the dollas for that bad boi!
That came on the shortblock when I picked it up.
@@mr.roddersneighborhood2740 I'm excited to see what this lil engine will do.
Engine looks sweet Dallas
Nice to see a Buick 350 getting worked on. Good to prelube the oiling system but running a drill at 700 rpm or so and doing any adjustment of the oil pressure by changing the pressure springs means almost nothing. Until the engine is in the car and thoroughly warmed up and is actually hitting some rpm, then you can get an idea of what the pressure will be and adjust it from there. Normally I rotate the engine a few times to let the oil get into all the bearings on the crank while running the drill. Saw plenty of cam break-in lube on the lifters but where was it on the cam lobes?
Running a drill at 700 RPM is equal to 1400 engine RPM. Setting the spring relief pressure is exactly what I was doing. That means the spring will relieve at that pressure no matter what, cold or hot so your argument is incorrect. There was plenty of cam lube on the cam and rotating the engine is why you feel there was not much there. The lifters wipe it off every pass on the cam. Hopefully this 350 can live up to expectations and I’m hoping for 500hp to be somewhat competitive in SEGA Super Stock.
@@mr.roddersneighborhood2740 I see your point on the oil pressure. Hopefully you get the power you're looking for.
Lookin forward to fire up 😁👍
That’s Puuurdy!!!
I have a 69 buick 350 4bbl intake...and have been thinking about doing the plenum and gasket match the ports.that should help my apollo out some
It will make a big difference, but you will likely need to do the heads too.
I went through 4 Buick 350s before I put a Chevy 355 sbc in my Apollo then I finally got tired of playing with carburetors and put a LS 5.3 in her and finally got the itch for boost and put a ls3 headed 370” lq9 with a nice cam and LSA supercharger…….7 engines later and I think I’ve finally figured it out!!!!
@@trentdawg2832 it sure sounds.like you got figured.out ...why 4 buick engines...mine.has 67k but.sat along time under a.pine tree ...its a early 73..it does run good ..id like to wake it up a little..
@@artjones2498 I was very rough with my shit in my younger days…..we are talking over a 25yr period…….buick engines are very expensive to hop up and far and few In between
Love the content, quick question 🙋♂️ do you happen to know anyone that works on Buicks in the PNW? I Live in portland and would appreciate a true buick enthusiast to rebuild my motor. If not I did want to inquire what a stock rebuild would cost. I’ve been struggling to make my mind up lol but I want to commit to either
Sorry bud, no I do not. I try and not do personal content and show you how to do every bit of it on this channel.
The copper pipe can have different wall thickness, I hope yours is the heavier walled copper.
Is poston enterprises still in business or TA performance….I know them intakes cost a small fortune…….20yrs ago, couldn’t tell ya what they go for now!!!
Piston is long gone, TA is still going strong. The intakes cost about $500. This one cost me $250 and I got a whole engine with it.
Completely unrelated, but check out jay Leno’s garage and the Apollo, the American Ferrari, Buick powered
By Apollo, you mean the 5000 GT I’m hoping, not the 1973 Buick version correct? If so, it was the exact car used in the movie “The Love Bug” with Dean Jones and Buddy Havket. It used the 215 Buick for the first couple of years and then the 300 Buick known as the 355 Wildcat in later years.
You may want to flare the copper fittings instead.
Compression fittings will hold just fine
That red is great, what is the paint code?
It’s a two color process, Dulpicolor 1653 2 coats and then Krylon International Red from Walmart or Tractor Supply two coats.
How did I just find out you had a channel ?
Glad ya found it! Hopefully you find it worth watchin’
You can't set oil pressure with cold oil in a cold engine. But I'm guessing you probably figured that out later on. lol
The way this works is that I was setting the oil pressure bypass relief, Not setting oil pressure. It’s a common misconception that many people have commented on. A Buick generally has a large variation in pressure at idle from hot to cold and most of it is due to the Volume of which the pump can flow and the expansion of the timing cover… this opens clearances within the pump and bleeds off oil pressure. By setting the bypass at a known pressure, it will limit max oil pressure.
You have that backwards, the MAIN oil galley is on the RIGHT side (passengers) the LEFT galley (drivers) feeds ONLY the lifters
Yes, You are right. I caught that after I watched the video myself. Good catch! I gooned that up.
Personally I blame squirrels
You cant accurately adjust oil pressure with the engine on the stand. The reason is with the engine running and parts moving, the pressure will be lower due to the oil being slung off journals.
I'm not adjusting oil pressure, I'm adjusting the pressure at which the relief opens. It does not depend wether its cold or warm oil that much, as much as I'm looking at what pressure the relief valve opens. With the larger volume of this oiling system, the operating pressure will increase since the volume of the oil pressure regulator remained the same. It's a pressure vs volume thing called Boyles law. I explain this in the video where I'm building the timing cover for this engine.
Those valve covers look like 215 300,340 thru 66 ? Same as 350?
Good eye, I cut the tops off of 300 valve covers and welded them to the 350 flanges. They are not the same flanges, so this is the only way to do it.
Hey dallas...what did you use to shim the springs
Why is your oil pan kick out on the wrong side? Frame problems?
Rear steer car with a funky subframe.
How about the new SP3 single plane.
It’s not allowed in SEGA Super Stock rules or I would use it.
How do you like that Royal Purple break in oil I never used it before
I love it! It's become my go to oil for camshaft break in.
More steady camera work plZ
I normally have a stand… it would not work for this video. Sorry about the juggling of the camera.
will you dyno this engine ?
Eventually that is the plan.
Brand X.
Small block?
Yes, Small Block Buick 350
Sorry bro but your channel is not that good
That’s sad to hear, so I went over and checked out your channel so I could see what an awesome channel looks like… tweeker videos and other trash videos, none of them related to car stuff, so you must be an expert automotive journalist and your judgement means everything to me. Have a nice day Kandy!