Dyson DC58 Look Inside & Troubleshooting
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 เม.ย. 2021
- In this video we take a look inside the Dyson DC58 Handheld vacuum and do some minor trouble shooting. The problem ends up being in the battery pack so I will have a couple links below to share with you some cheaper alternative replacements for the DC58 instead of the over priced Dyson replacement pack. I also ask that you please take the time to comment below or share your suggestions about the next video with the DC58. I feel like we should continue on troubleshooting the pack or make this thing run off of the M18 or any other 20V-24V pack for that matter. Let me know your thoughts and Thanks for watching!
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And from what you see, you know that manufacturer is in business to make money. Your videos are always interesting. My vote, "Frankenstein" it. You can bet that somebody from dyson will see it for ideas. As always, enjoyed. Thanks for the look!
During one of several moments of boredom during retirement, i too have been taking Dysons apart to investigate. You tried several things i hadn't even thought of so i've found your videos on them really interesting. Thanks for this video and the DC35 ones. I will be watching more and i'm now subscribed. Kind regards from the UK.
Awesome! Thanks for sharing!
They now have a battery adapter for the dyson 58 that takes milwaukee M18 batteries and it lasts ALOT lot longer. Posting the info here for others that may find your video. Thanks!
thank you for your very instructive tutorial.
Hi from France, very instructive video , lot of thanks !
These Dyson BMS are a robbery as they lock down after the first undervoltage (red blinking led), specially if we don't care and use the Boost with an almost discharged pack. It can no more drain amps enough , voltage falls and BMS stops the current...but here definitively (! ??) ....With any power drill or others it's the same but the BMS (as any usual good one) is not blocked and allows the recharge without issue.
That explains why oftens the cells are not dead , only a little short undervoltage...I opened some "red" batteries : most of them had a minimal good voltage (higher again because no more amps drained) and still correctly balanced, no lost capacity...simply BMS definitively locked down....a shame , only for commercial reasons.
One possible solution with a good battery would be to add immediately a second S cells line in // under the first one (main current and balance) without touching the BMS (if disconnected it locks down), and modify the packaging : much longer worktime , and first of all 50% discharge amps less per cell , so much longer lifetime....it's not Dyson's choice and we know why.
I add : after opening the box I simply cut the male snaps with a cutter , close the box only with the screw is enough and secure. So it's very easy to open again.
And at the end a ridiculous question : if I solder a wire to make a bridge above the blocking part (1C030L)...would it be run?
Friendly, Michel .
Yes, bypassing the Mosfet for testing would actually run. This is similar to a video on a Ridgid Hyper Lithium battery pack I showed repair of. It is a video on TH-cam also that someone shows reprogramming the microcontroller on the board to get rid of the issue on the Dyson pack. I wanted to eventually do a video on that, but since clone packs are so cheap I decided it wasn't worth it for me to buy the programmer at this time. I am glad someone has now done it though.
very interesting thanks for the video and information
Nice dissection!
Good job
your videos are pretty amazing. found myself watching lots of them.
iv got a working v6 dyson motor on the bench and noticed that it shuts down around 17 volts. I looking for a air mover for my oil burng progects and wonder if there is some way to somehow slow this motor with an adjustable switch or remove the low voltage cutout maybe
I know the circuit board is awfully complicated. I didn't realize there was that much into that motor for circuitry.
Thanks so much for your kind comment and for watching!
I have not gone as far as you are asking to say for sure. That is a good question about the Dyson because it's built to simply run in full output at all times. Well, some also have a MAX (kind of like a Turbo) button if you will. It could be possible to figure out what gives that input for MAX or normal and modify it, but I would guess it's just an input to the microcontroller so it may be difficult to do. I did share a video a while back about a Ridgid brushless drill that has a bad BLDC controller that was also built in and I shared a little about taking the controller board off and soldering wires onto the BLDC motor and running it with a cheap BLDC controller. That may be an option?
This is a road I have not traveled yet to say for sure. Hope it helps!
th-cam.com/video/UaMmWGn97F0/w-d-xo.html
Hi, how to put the switch and the spring back in place? Thanx
Hello. I enjoyed the video and am very tempted to attempt powering my dc58 with a laptop style power supply. If you could maybe try it and document the trials and errors along the way, I think that would be very interesting.
Hi,
I have a video on this using a M18 battery to power it. I mentioned in that video that a 24V pack would work better and give more run time before dropping out. Hope it helps and thanks for your kind comment!
th-cam.com/video/KKLtT0G5frc/w-d-xo.html
John Horne There is no need to try it. The Dyson draws WAAAAAAAAAY more current than any laptop changer can deliver. Well over 100amps vs 4amps. Running a Dyson on a cord is out of the question. You would need a huge and cumbersome adaptor to carry around, or a 10-8 gauge heavy cord if the adaptor was stationary.
As soon as u fired up the motor I told my wife "better not put your lips close to those blades!" Then u showed Adams little mishap.. I about fell out of the chair..
LOL.. Thanks for a great laugh
Thanks for your comment, and excellent channel by the way!
@@ThriftyToolShed Thank u!
Hey there, really nice tear down video!
I have a Dyson V8 that after sucking up some fine dust sounds really weird and overheats quickly.
My guess is there's fine dust inside the motor area now.
Do you think there are any replacement parts for the actual main motor/insides to fix the problem?
I am not sure about the V8 to know which parts inside honestly. Have you checked the filter in between the dust bin and motor intake to make sure it's not clogged up. Most of these are even washable if very bad they can be replaced. Sorry I am limited on expert with that model, I would only know to check the basics. Best of luck to ya!
@@ThriftyToolShed No problem thanks anyway. Yeah the vacuum can be powered on even with that filter removed, as well as the backside filter (the HEPA one). Even then you can hear it struggling.
I'll take my chances with the dealer I think, see what they say.
The DC35 will not power up by just connecting an M18 battery to the terminals like the DC58. Do you know what modifications are needed to make it work? I'm assuming 2 or the 5 pin connector need to see a certain resistance to allow it to conduct power to the motor.
The DC58 is the only one I have done to say for sure. The DC58 was also made so the battery supplied the start and stop to the BLDC controller and I don't know if they are all that way or not? I shared on video how the DC58 had the Mosfet on board that turns on and off with the tiny switch command.
Can you make a short video how to put the mini switch and the spring back. Thanx
If I still had that part of the pack I would. I switched this over to run off of M18 packs years ago and no longer have that part. I think I recycled the cells using them in another project.
My Dyson died today. It now does a funny noise when on the charge. I'll try the Milwaukee hack trick to see if it turns the motor tomorrow. If it works, I will buy a generic battery.
at 9:40 why you didn't use the switch button of the dyson itself? I want to also convert it to work with other batteries.
The switch lever only went to the battery pack itself and that small switch was input to the board microcontroller. The output from microcontroller turned on onboard Mosfet to output to terminals of vacuum.
I had intermittent working on the brush attachments - turned out there was a bad earth on the red and white wires in the back of the motor. Bridging the black and white wires solves the problem - couldn't get the circuit board out to resolder.
Thanks for sharing!
Great video would like to see follow up vid it would be interesting to see if you can revive that BMS. I have 7 of these battery's all of these have red light of death 2 of which I killed trying to re cell all it takes is 1 cell to drop below say 2.5 v or gets disconnected from the BMS and game over however is possible to re cell before the pack dies (when you notice the battery only last a few mins runtime) but you need to make a slave pack and connect it to BMS before you replace the old cells and all cells must be at the same voltage and their is one more hurdle the temp sensor it is glued in and makes it hard to get the two cells out in that area If you can get past all that your good to go
I am actually troubleshooting this one right now. I am seeing the same thing. The cells are good now and balanced and feedback is good to the management chip. Still blink of death. Seems to be in the microcontroller for sure. I have already tried a reset on the micro and no dice.
Do u have any detailed instructions for it?
I did not have the correct interface for the Dyson microcontroller. I did find the video below by TH-camr - Second Life - that has figured out how to flash the microcontroller and get the BMS back going. Pretty cool. I may get around to doing this one day. I have messed around a little bit with ST-Link in the past to flash some microcontrollers so I will have to look at this better when I have time. th-cam.com/video/ENY8xcczowk/w-d-xo.html
Sometime ago I saw a guy who used a power tool battery to power up his Dyson. I have one exactly the same as yours in the garage just to hoover the car. I feel tempted to wire the Dyson motor to my car cigarette lighter and see it it works. Probably won’t work 😂as the cigarette lighter only provides 12v or so.
I assume you still can use the cells for some other projects.
Whatever you do it will be interesting to watch. 👍
Yeah I agree, 12V is way too low for the Dyson. Even the 20V is cutting out if it pulls down too low. Yes I will repurpose in the cells if I have no luck. Thanks for your comment!
Please do a video on more trouble shooting on the battery pack please
Well in the next video after this one I converted it so a M18 pack could run it. I did mention at the beginning of that video that the original Dyson pack was basically useless. It seems the microcontroller is programmed to basically lock out if the cells ever drop down too low. The BMS board has to be replaced at this point (Unless you wanted to reprogram the micro?) You could buy a knock off battery for a few more dollars than buying a replacement BMS board for the pack. So I decided to run it from M18. If you had the New Flex 24V or Kobalt 24V it would run even better?
Any idea why mine started smoking from this small chip that has 3 pins one side and 1 on the other and is square
I can't with no more information than that.
The replacement battery only costs $22 with free shipping for a machine that probably cost$300 new? Dyson must haves huge mark up!
It’s less the “mark up” and more the brand name you’re paying for. Although at least this isn’t Chinese yet.. still a solid build
Can you describe how the motor and pcb handle the power switch? I tried hooking a power supply to it directly with no luck, and can you help describe what the switch requirements are? I have a dyson motor and pcb but not the rest - I want to make my own hobby-specific vacuum.
Thank you
Follow-up... Looks like the canister wires are to prevent the vacuum from powering on if there is canister attached? Is there a way to override that? I imagine that those wires would just tie into the line of power the switch is on? That way activating the switch also triggers the pcb into thinking a canister is installed?
Thanks
Yes, I did not look at that part very much when I retrofit mine. I believe if you follow the wires to the circuit board you may have luck jumping it out there. Should be easy..
I remember it having wires that run down to the floor attachment for the roller power. I did not see the wires to monitor if the canister was in place on mine? It's been a while though...
@@ThriftyToolShed ah okay. I guess I'll just have to tinker with it and try and not zap myself or fry my pcb.
Do you have any insight about what type of switch would be required to handle the power load? I've read/watched in places that the switch specs definitely matter
Thanks
I did not look into that part at all while doing my battery conversion.
Yea I read the micro controller that’s used has a fail safe thing build in and once the cells drop below a certain voltage makes the bms unusable. Such a waste. Nice one Dyson 🙄
I am actually troubleshooting this one right now. I am seeing the same thing actually. The cells are good and balanced and feedback is good to the management chip. Still blink of death. Seems to be in the microcontroller. I have already tried a reset on the micro and no dice. Nice one Dyson indeed.....
@@ThriftyToolShed I’m pretty sure they have baked it into the firmware of the micro so any unbalance over an “x” period of time kills the bms. Just so they can sell more batteries. Sucks. I have a v11 battery turning up this week. I’m going to attempt to repair this one too. Fingers crossed it’s not the same
Do not spin the rotor by hand you can damage the rotor. Those can not get finger grease or skin on them. That motor spins at 120000rpm and any imbalance or slight bends in the impellers can cause an imbalance and the impeller can explode. I've learned by experience when someone used an abrasive and pin to clean the impeller and boom shrapnel everywhere in the motor compartment.
I do know some models do run up to 120,000 rpm's and balance and bearings are extremely critical at that speed for sure. I had not heard touching the rotor vanes could affect it that greatly. Sorry to hear of your experience with that. Thanks for sharing!
i been finding them for $5 at my Local Flea Market can Flipp and Build them to make Cordless Duster Blowers for Cleaning inside your PC Parts i Havent Made an Re Housing STL File to 3D Print it or if anyone has a STL File made ?
Great find for $5. These units are very well made with high output BLDC. Best of luck with the STL file.