I bought one of these at a junk sale in the back of a charity shop, it was just the shell with a smashed up end. Sadly I cannot repair the bodywork and have no motors to work with, but I’ve had it for 10 years now and hope to get it repaired soon. Thanks for the video in the meantime!
Glad you did a video on the class 33 as when I was a young boy we lived on the Weymouth to Waterloo line and the class 33 use to run past our garden twice per hour for many years. Now having my own layout the class 33 in blue is the only new diesel I have bought, have a green one too, bidding on a triple grey one to add to the collection. Still live very near the Weymouth to Waterloo line.
You sure the photo pic was a 33? Dundee had allocation of 27's which look very very to similar, 33s were very rare to be seen off SR metals as the SR were super protective of them and the 73's both loco's other regions would quite happily snaffle. I got my Lima 33 from a chap in Fife last month NOS never been used the chap said and it is in perfect order, its a do or die engine with me having to use my controller high range to get it to slow move otherwise it flies on low range although my Caledonian Railway 0-4-0 is the fastest of my engines :) I have fond memories of many summer holidays spent with my aunt in Alyth and walking the lines between Newtyle to Dundee, Blairgowrie, Coupar Angus or just nosing about the old Alyth branch, Newtyle was a well cool place to explore.
Recently found your channel and really enjoying your content, very well made and very much like the way you explain each process. Hope you dont mind me saying that the train in your photo looks more like a Class 101 DMU to me and Class 33s were mainly used on the Southern Region. Keep up the great work, look forward to watching more :)
Nice loco, always was one of Lima's best. Seems to growl quite realistically! I grew up by the SW main line to Southampton, so these were a very familiar sight (& sound).
Looks pretty good, these older and simpler engines have a certain charm. Nice to get a model that is significant to you, I have a GP 40-2 with the number of one that actually pulled a train I was on, way out in Alberta. I have been looking for a 'Dominion of Canada', which is the first A4 I had seen but the prices are way too high for me.
Thanks for the helpful video series so far! A tip for unclipping plastic bodies or any other "prise open joints" - use guitar plectrums, there are a range of thicknesses and hardnesses you can usually find one that fits and isn't too brutal on the model. I bought a job lot of them on ebay for a few pence each. Tempting as it is to use a natural tool that you were equipped with in accordance with Darwin's theories, you can get quite sore cuts under your thumbnail. I learned this disassembling laptops etc!
Nice little loco, I had the same grinding problem at low speeds , turns out there is some rough edges on the gears I filed them back made a big difference
Yes Bill, Ciaran is correct, there is some good technical info online that explains where the noise comes from, and cleaning flash from gears makes a big difference.
@@gs425 The noise doesn't bother me it's the sudden pull away. I will be stripping this motor down soon and I look my gears very closely with my eye pieces so yes any flash or dirt will get the heave ho. We'll see how it runs then cheers.
@@oobill unfortunately it is often the case with Lima, and older models had a slightly less refined mech than newer ones. You can spot newer mechs by the screw on intermediate gearing. The older units just had the gears loose on their shafts. Cleaning up the gear train will certainly help, but I think the armatures always suffered more of a cogging effect than hornby ringfields. Its therefore likely that a stronger magnet would make this effect worse. Anyway, it's always a pleasure watching your videos and purchases. So please post a video up of how you get on with improving it. As for visual improvements, the biggest difference I've made with my lima 33s is adding larger buffers. The original ones supplied are far too small, although lima did fit bigger ones later in production.
Another nice purchase there! I have been bidding and watching a few of these and they are selling for anywhere between £30-£45 for a decent boxed loco.
That's a nice purchase from ebay. Lovely little loco. I'm watching on a big tele and your photograph looks maybe like a DMU. (Metro Cammel)? Not sure. Thanks again.
Do you know I think you may actually be right? I don't actually remember it I just have this fuzzy photo but yeah looking at it closely it's more like a Class 101 which is hilarious as I have one of those already!! I need a better one!!
I have a Lima class 33 a couple of them and heljan ones that can be seen on my other channel “Official Trundley Close Railway Centre” lovely models, the loco you see in your photo is of a Diesel Multiple Unit that there is a Class 101 by the looks of it, worth a look up as Bachmann do a few but if you wanna go for something more cheaper I believe Hornby do an old one as well, an interesting video though you’ve made here and nice to see another unboxing of these classic locos.
Yeah as others have pointed out your pic looks like a 101 dmu which would make sense on an Edinburgh to Dundee service . The 33 is nice though . Not common in Scotland but it’s class 26 and 27 sisters were . When Lima brought this out in 77 , for the next twenty odd years people bought them and converted them to 26s and 27s by creating nose doors. Lima did latter;y do a 27 and now there are Heljan ones , at a price! Your 33 Got to be good for £20 .
Just found your channel. To improve a poor magnet magnet have you tried attaching two small super strong magnets to the motor casing ? These seem to add to the motor magnetism. Not my idea but worked for me with a Mainline Peak motor which was overheating and powerless. They just need to be small enough to fit inside the loco body shell. Now subscribed.
I have tried that yes but without much success. I think some motor types will work with that idea better than others. It's better to replace the magnet with a neodymium or remagnetise it if you can.
Hi I have two Hornby tender drive locomotives,a 9f and a black 5. They are surplus to requirements and never get a run out. If you want them you can have them. If you want I can send pics of both. The motors in the tenders of both are of the earlier ring field motors. Des
hi. great video. inspiring! i am wondering if adding a large capacitor to the loco would help with a smooth start. on the other hand, one would need to experiment with cap size because if too large, the locomotive would keep going and stop in a random spot :-)
Hi Bill, one of my favorite locos and my first ever diesel back in 1979 or so. Respectfully can I nudge you away from the fiber pen on commutators unless it is really crud bound, they make scratches that fill up and cause dirt to build up. Your methods are really good, I might have a fix for the general running etc, if you would care to check out my Lima service video, swap the IPA for the WD 40 contact cleaner however when doing anything that conducts electricity. Let me know?
The stiff wire from the pick up under the motors were never insulated, not really a good design from a maintance point of view, as you always had to be careful not to snap the thing. But the model you have there is a good runner. Perte's Spares is a good place for replacement brushed and springs. worth a look if you don't already do so!
I dont think im ever supposed to get a class 33 that works! The first one i got this week had a gear missing that goes to the front set of wheels,so the seller said he had another spare Lima chassis which i could use to take bits off to make this first one work.But the motor is a different design!and this one feels seized up to me! I should have just spalshed out on a Heljan class 33,but that would be to easy right ?
I assume that you must just like collecting these OLD Lima and Hornby toys,when the market has moved on and you can get better model loco etc now! Wow looks like somebody has replaced the pick up wire, as that one is much thicker than the original one that it would have had from new!
Absolutely! It's much more fun paying £30 for an old loco and repairing, servicing and improving them. I've never bought a new loco and probably never will.
Bill please don't keep using your fibreglass pencil on commutators my friend. You leave a rough surface which wears the brushes down quicker and that worn off carbon will much more quickly cause more problems. They only need at worse a wipe with a cloth containing solvent, like IPA. (I have worked in DC motor design for 35 years ). Similarly some people scrape between segments using a pin. This tend to flare the edges of the copper slightly causing rapid wear, and is normally unnecessary in any case. There is info only about what to look for to make lima motors run smooth, especially flash on gears. Kind regards Gary
Interestingly I have stopped using a pin for scraping between the segments as close examination with my eye pieces shows it doesn't really work. They can get very dirty but a very small flat blade screwdriver run through the slot at an angle does a far better job. I'm very wary of introducing fluids anywhere near a commutator and armature but I'll give IPA a go. My dad used to use a matchbox!!!! I'm amazed my old Cardiff Castle still goes....
i have a lima class 33, a bit older than yours but looks the same, the traction tyres are shot on mine so i've sent off for replacements. Have you noticed that there are places for two more pairs of wheels between the existing on each set. I find the size of the lima a little bit diminutive compared with other model trains of what i thought was the same 00 scale. I have the same uninsulated wire too. I stuck the weight in with double sided tape.
![PASULOL รามเกียรติ์ ตอนที่ 4 นนทกพบรัก [Ramakien Ep.4: Nonthok in love]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tMUQgmZzf_A/mqdefault.jpg)
I bought one of these at a junk sale in the back of a charity shop, it was just the shell with a smashed up end. Sadly I cannot repair the bodywork and have no motors to work with, but I’ve had it for 10 years now and hope to get it repaired soon. Thanks for the video in the meantime!
Glad you did a video on the class 33 as when I was a young boy we lived on the Weymouth to Waterloo line and the class 33 use to run past our garden twice per hour for many years. Now having my own layout the class 33 in blue is the only new diesel I have bought, have a green one too, bidding on a triple grey one to add to the collection. Still live very near the Weymouth to Waterloo line.
She looks and sounds great around the layout at the end. A really good buy for 20 quid.
You sure the photo pic was a 33? Dundee had allocation of 27's which look very very to similar, 33s were very rare to be seen off SR metals as the SR were super protective of them and the 73's both loco's other regions would quite happily snaffle. I got my Lima 33 from a chap in Fife last month NOS never been used the chap said and it is in perfect order, its a do or die engine with me having to use my controller high range to get it to slow move otherwise it flies on low range although my Caledonian Railway 0-4-0 is the fastest of my engines :) I have fond memories of many summer holidays spent with my aunt in Alyth and walking the lines between Newtyle to Dundee, Blairgowrie, Coupar Angus or just nosing about the old Alyth branch, Newtyle was a well cool place to explore.
Recently found your channel and really enjoying your content, very well made and very much like the way you explain each process. Hope you dont mind me saying that the train in your photo looks more like a Class 101 DMU to me and Class 33s were mainly used on the Southern Region. Keep up the great work, look forward to watching more :)
the photo looks like a DMU to me there are diesel exaust smoke columbs rising from between the units , looks like a 3 car set
Your childhood photo shows a Metro Cammel Class 111 DMU.
Hello Bill, I really enjoy your low key approach to the hobby. Stay healthy and keep up the good work!
Nice loco, always was one of Lima's best. Seems to growl quite realistically! I grew up by the SW main line to Southampton, so these were a very familiar sight (& sound).
Looks pretty good, these older and simpler engines have a certain charm. Nice to get a model that is significant to you, I have a GP 40-2 with the number of one that actually pulled a train I was on, way out in Alberta. I have been looking for a 'Dominion of Canada', which is the first A4 I had seen but the prices are way too high for me.
I’ve got one as well, the Dap Class 22. Beautiful work you’ve done. Thank you for the video.
Thanks for the helpful video series so far! A tip for unclipping plastic bodies or any other "prise open joints" - use guitar plectrums, there are a range of thicknesses and hardnesses you can usually find one that fits and isn't too brutal on the model. I bought a job lot of them on ebay for a few pence each. Tempting as it is to use a natural tool that you were equipped with in accordance with Darwin's theories, you can get quite sore cuts under your thumbnail. I learned this disassembling laptops etc!
Nice little loco, I had the same grinding problem at low speeds , turns out there is some rough edges on the gears I filed them back made a big difference
Yes Bill, Ciaran is correct, there is some good technical info online that explains where the noise comes from, and cleaning flash from gears makes a big difference.
@@gs425 The noise doesn't bother me it's the sudden pull away. I will be stripping this motor down soon and I look my gears very closely with my eye pieces so yes any flash or dirt will get the heave ho. We'll see how it runs then cheers.
@@oobill unfortunately it is often the case with Lima, and older models had a slightly less refined mech than newer ones. You can spot newer mechs by the screw on intermediate gearing. The older units just had the gears loose on their shafts. Cleaning up the gear train will certainly help, but I think the armatures always suffered more of a cogging effect than hornby ringfields. Its therefore likely that a stronger magnet would make this effect worse.
Anyway, it's always a pleasure watching your videos and purchases. So please post a video up of how you get on with improving it. As for visual improvements, the biggest difference I've made with my lima 33s is adding larger buffers. The original ones supplied are far too small, although lima did fit bigger ones later in production.
Another nice purchase there! I have been bidding and watching a few of these and they are selling for anywhere between £30-£45 for a decent boxed loco.
That's a nice purchase from ebay. Lovely little loco.
I'm watching on a big tele and your photograph looks maybe like a DMU. (Metro Cammel)? Not sure.
Thanks again.
Do you know I think you may actually be right? I don't actually remember it I just have this fuzzy photo but yeah looking at it closely it's more like a Class 101 which is hilarious as I have one of those already!! I need a better one!!
I have to agree, it looks like a 101
What's more the Scotland locos would have been a class 26 or 27, though look similar to a 33.
I have a Lima class 33 a couple of them and heljan ones that can be seen on my other channel “Official Trundley Close Railway Centre” lovely models, the loco you see in your photo is of a Diesel Multiple Unit that there is a Class 101 by the looks of it, worth a look up as Bachmann do a few but if you wanna go for something more cheaper I believe Hornby do an old one as well, an interesting video though you’ve made here and nice to see another unboxing of these classic locos.
Yeah as others have pointed out your pic looks like a 101 dmu which would make sense on an Edinburgh to Dundee service . The 33 is nice though . Not common in Scotland but it’s class 26 and 27 sisters were . When Lima brought this out in 77 , for the next twenty odd years people bought them and converted them to 26s and 27s by creating nose doors. Lima did latter;y do a 27 and now there are Heljan ones , at a price! Your 33 Got to be good for £20 .
Just found your channel. To improve a poor magnet magnet have you tried attaching two small super strong magnets to the motor casing ? These seem to add to the motor magnetism. Not my idea but worked for me with a Mainline Peak motor which was overheating and powerless. They just need to be small enough to fit inside the loco body shell. Now subscribed.
I have tried that yes but without much success. I think some motor types will work with that idea better than others. It's better to replace the magnet with a neodymium or remagnetise it if you can.
Hi I have two Hornby tender drive locomotives,a 9f and a black 5. They are surplus to requirements and never get a run out. If you want them you can have them. If you want I can send pics of both. The motors in the tenders of both are of the earlier ring field motors.
Des
Only just found this video of yours , and like others before me have already said that is a DMU in the photograph and not a class 33!
hi. great video. inspiring! i am wondering if adding a large capacitor to the loco would help with a smooth start. on the other hand, one would need to experiment with cap size because if too large, the locomotive would keep going and stop in a random spot :-)
Hi Bill, one of my favorite locos and my first ever diesel back in 1979 or so. Respectfully can I nudge you away from the fiber pen on commutators unless it is really crud bound, they make scratches that fill up and cause dirt to build up. Your methods are really good, I might have a fix for the general running etc, if you would care to check out my Lima service video, swap the IPA for the WD 40 contact cleaner however when doing anything that conducts electricity. Let me know?
I ditched the fibreglass pen a while ago the things are a health hazard. Check my latest video on my old Mainline J72 for how I clean commutators now.
Nice loco! Can I make a suggestion of yoi doing a loco collection video showcasing your collection?
The stiff wire from the pick up under the motors were never insulated, not really a good design from a maintance point of view, as you always had to be careful not to snap the thing. But the model you have there is a good runner. Perte's Spares is a good place for replacement brushed and springs. worth a look if you don't already do so!
I dont think im ever supposed to get a class 33 that works! The first one i got this week had a gear missing that goes to the front set of wheels,so the seller said he had another spare Lima chassis which i could use to take bits off to make this first one work.But the motor is a different design!and this one feels seized up to me! I should have just spalshed out on a Heljan class 33,but that would be to easy right ?
I assume that you must just like collecting these OLD Lima and Hornby toys,when the market has moved on and you can get better model loco etc now! Wow looks like somebody has replaced the pick up wire, as that one is much thicker than the original one that it would have had from new!
Absolutely! It's much more fun paying £30 for an old loco and repairing, servicing and improving them. I've never bought a new loco and probably never will.
that looks great.. one thing are the buffers too small on these?
Bill please don't keep using your fibreglass pencil on commutators my friend. You leave a rough surface which wears the brushes down quicker and that worn off carbon will much more quickly cause more problems. They only need at worse a wipe with a cloth containing solvent, like IPA. (I have worked in DC motor design for 35 years ). Similarly some people scrape between segments using a pin. This tend to flare the edges of the copper slightly causing rapid wear, and is normally unnecessary in any case.
There is info only about what to look for to make lima motors run smooth, especially flash on gears. Kind regards Gary
Interestingly I have stopped using a pin for scraping between the segments as close examination with my eye pieces shows it doesn't really work. They can get very dirty but a very small flat blade screwdriver run through the slot at an angle does a far better job. I'm very wary of introducing fluids anywhere near a commutator and armature but I'll give IPA a go. My dad used to use a matchbox!!!! I'm amazed my old Cardiff Castle still goes....
Where is your statiion building from?
i have a lima class 33, a bit older than yours but looks the same, the traction tyres are shot on mine so i've sent off for replacements. Have you noticed that there are places for two more pairs of wheels between the existing on each set. I find the size of the lima a little bit diminutive compared with other model trains of what i thought was the same 00 scale. I have the same uninsulated wire too. I stuck the weight in with double sided tape.
You may have the earlier loco, which was made to HO scale not OO
@@gs425 i think you are right bill
lovely layout
@@gs425 my thoughts as well, though I do recall continental style couplings on these www.limabritishho.co.uk/LBHO-Locomotives.htm
I got one like yours on eBay mint in box good price too