Those vibration dampners (the rubber block on the T-case) were about $300 from Toyota when I priced them ten years ago (I bent mine right up), I'd hate to think what they're worth now.
To be totally honest, I don't know how long mine hasn't been doing anything, but I've since removed it and haven't noticed any difference. It had around 20mm of rubber still holding. The lower bolt stripped the thread out of the transfer case too, so no chance of refitting another one even if I wanted to without actually cutting another thread into the transfer case and putting a helicoil in there. Regarding pricing, that's ridiculous, but Toyota here charge like a wounded bull.
Hey KK. Those were a one off custom made group buy. Unfortunately, I don't own a 90 series anymore (you'll see the videos from last year explained what happened), but companies such as Custom Off-road, Brown Davis and maybe Bushskinz might have something available for purchase. Thanks for the support and I hope you enjoy the content 🤠👍
Tip always undo the filer bolt when changing any oils so it will 1 flow freely and 2 u can refill it, because many times the filler bolt won't undo then ur in a bit of bother, love my Prado Grande🇦🇺🤙💯
This is more or less already a pinned comment, but yes, definitely make sure you can loosen everything off before changing any fluids or you're going to have a bad day. 😎 My Prado was great until the accident, but I much prefer my 80 series diesel Landcruiser these days.
Unfortunately I don't, as I don't have the 90 series anymore due to a rollover. That is pretty straight forward though, couple of bolts on the chassis rail to mount them up. All the recovery point kits should come with instructions. I know aironboard provide installation instructions too. There are pictures on my Instagram where you can roughly see where they mount.
Might be different locations for different countries perhaps, I can't actually answer that one. Regarding the bash plates, from factory ours only had that little front one. Later on before I lost the 90 series in a rollover I had a full custom upgraded set that covered the oil pan, gearbox and transfer case.
@@OzTrax4X4 Oh it's only -11C right now it's fine, tho I would have really preferred the fuel heater and block heater options. And frankly where I'm at rarely gets above 30, so it feels really silly having it, but the fact the Australian built ones dont have it is comical.
Only -11 😂 I camped in -7 for the first time a few months ago, and that was cold enough to freeze my door locks. As it doesn't really snow in Australia unless you're in the alpine regions, there is really no need for anything additional as it just doesn't get super hot unless it's over summer. Average temps would be 25 degrees give or take.
Hello thank you for your videos I have question: where is the OBD connector located on this Prado, i have a prado 1998 VX ( 5VZ-FE engine ) with diagnosis port but can't find the OBD port. Can you help me please. Thank you
Hi Avec That's a very simple and easy question to answer. They don't have one unfortunately, it's the diagnostic port only. The 120 series is when they started to have an OBD port.
Thanks mate your video very good and easily understandable for everyone, I have a question Can I use fully synthetic 75w90 in front diff, rear diff and transfer case as diff need 80w90 but 75 is not too thin and will do job as its synthetic too, my car manual says GL5 90 and didn't mention 75W or 80W what you reckon?
Hi Azam I'm glad it was easy to understand. 😊 In regards to your question about the oil viscosity. 75w90 would be too thin for the diffs. I'd stick with what is recommended which is 80w90 for the front and rear diffs and the 75w90 for the transfer case. The diff oil is formulated for the constant work the diffs do, being full-time 4WD, so that's why I wouldn't go changing the grade.
Unfortunately I don't have the 90 series anymore due to a pretty serious accident a year ago, so I can't check and let you know, but I think it was a 10mm hex from memory.
@@OzTrax4X4 sorry to hear it mate. keep doing physio and things will slowly improve. I've just had the metal removed from my hip which has improved my pain a lot. Possibly worth looking into for your shoulder. Each surgeon will have a different opinion
I would stick with the 80w90 as that is what is specified to be used. If you choose to add 85w90, then know that it will be a thicker oil when cold and may not be able to lubricate the bearings which could cause damage long term.
They were custom made by a fabricator here. I unfortunately don't have the 90 series anymore due to an accident, so can't show off the design. This is the video of the manufacturing of them. th-cam.com/video/ai-Vrv3fv8M/w-d-xo.html
Hey bud! 🤠 Generally with a V6, every 10k for engine oil & filter, but if you're pedantic, 5k for both. Turbo diesel every 5k. Diffs I'd do every 40k. Make sure you have breathers on those diffs, gearbox and transfer case. For your trans, if it's auto and you're not confident in pulling the pan off and changing the filter (it's a messy job), take that to an auto trans specialist and do that yearly. Otherwise do the manual trans at the same time as the diffs. Also, if you're driving an auto, add an external trans cooler inline after your factory radiator pass-through trans cooler if you haven't done that as that gives extra cooling to your fluid and will make it last a lot longer and not burn it prematurely from excessive heat cycling.
@@OzTrax4X4 thanks for the info! it's a manual vx diesel! just got it in march stoked to of found such a rare one.. only issue is can't find in the service history in recent 40,000 ish kms if its been changed, it says theyve been checked but no doubt doesn't have good penrite in there, might have to do a peace of mind change!
Pretty rare to find a VX in manual, let alone diesel so look after her. 🤠 If in doubt, change it out. For example, my 80 series that I now have hadn't had a service in 9 years as it was parked up, so switched out all the fluids and filters. The one thing I will highly recommend is to grab some Fuel Doctor and follow the shock treatment/maintenance instructions on the back of the bottle. It's an expensive outlay, but you'll gain a far nicer driving diesel out of it. Preventative maintenance is key. Also make sure you fit a catch can if you haven't already done so. 👌
@@OzTrax4X4 Wow never heard of fuel doctor?? says to put it in with a full tank of diesel and then put 25ml for the next few fills? I've never heard anyone talk about this but wonder what changes I'll notice?
Not sure if you can get it over where you are as it's an Australian product. 🤔 I've gained an extra gear uphill compared to how it was about a week or so ago.
Amazing takeaway from you folks down under - I intentionally head to a shop to spray the underside of my '97 90 series with oil to slow rust while you mention in your piece on intentionally cleaning the wayward oil - It makes under carriage service a royal mess but keeps the rust at bay... Canada - Sorry to hear you lost it from reading the comments- Brought mine in from Japan 4 yrs ago and hole to run it up to 500,000km
Fortunately for us, there is hardly any snow here, so our roads aren't salted, which makes it far easier to keep clean. She was great, and did the job, but I find my 80 series to be far more suitable for what I do in it these days. 🤠👍
Unfortunately, the oil filter is in a hard to film location on the 90 series and I was filming this whole video myself, so it would have been very difficult to get a clear shot due to its location.
Diffs and transfer should be every 45,000kms bud. Auto transmission every year with a new filter. Manual transmission I'd probably do the same as the diffs/transfer case.
just a tip check you can undo the filler plug before draining dif or transfer oil...
100% and I realised I left this out when filming, but good pickup. You're paying attention. 🤠
Those vibration dampners (the rubber block on the T-case) were about $300 from Toyota when I priced them ten years ago (I bent mine right up), I'd hate to think what they're worth now.
To be totally honest, I don't know how long mine hasn't been doing anything, but I've since removed it and haven't noticed any difference.
It had around 20mm of rubber still holding.
The lower bolt stripped the thread out of the transfer case too, so no chance of refitting another one even if I wanted to without actually cutting another thread into the transfer case and putting a helicoil in there.
Regarding pricing, that's ridiculous, but Toyota here charge like a wounded bull.
Great video, I have just subscribed. I just got a Prado 90 series and was wondering where do you get bash plates for it?
Hey KK.
Those were a one off custom made group buy.
Unfortunately, I don't own a 90 series anymore (you'll see the videos from last year explained what happened), but companies such as Custom Off-road, Brown Davis and maybe Bushskinz might have something available for purchase.
Thanks for the support and I hope you enjoy the content 🤠👍
Tip always undo the filer bolt when changing any oils so it will 1 flow freely and 2 u can refill it, because many times the filler bolt won't undo then ur in a bit of bother, love my Prado Grande🇦🇺🤙💯
This is more or less already a pinned comment, but yes, definitely make sure you can loosen everything off before changing any fluids or you're going to have a bad day. 😎
My Prado was great until the accident, but I much prefer my 80 series diesel Landcruiser these days.
@@OzTrax4X4 sorry didn't read all comments my bad, hava gr8 day🇦🇺
All good 😊 thanks for the support 🤠👌
Do you have a video on installing the recovery mounts?
Unfortunately I don't, as I don't have the 90 series anymore due to a rollover.
That is pretty straight forward though, couple of bolts on the chassis rail to mount them up.
All the recovery point kits should come with instructions.
I know aironboard provide installation instructions too.
There are pictures on my Instagram where you can roughly see where they mount.
@@OzTrax4X4 Legend - I'll check it out. Just looks like a mission with the front bumper hooked up
No, not at all. Bolts in right next to the factory bash plate on either side towards the front end of the chassis.
Thanks bro ❤❤❤ I always refer your video 😍😍😍 good job 👍👍👍
No problem 😁
Great video! What torx size for the front dif?
This is something I don't remember as I no longer have the vehicle.
From memory, it was a T10 Allen head, but don't quote me on that.
Sir I am from India. Sir I saw you using Sakura oil filter are these oil filters good or should toyota genuine is better
Hey mate
I have never had an issue with Sakura filters, and I would put them on par with genuine. 😎👍
Weird your filter is on the side of the motor, mine is on a aluminum drain tray next to the intake, also whered all your skid plates go?
Might be different locations for different countries perhaps, I can't actually answer that one.
Regarding the bash plates, from factory ours only had that little front one.
Later on before I lost the 90 series in a rollover I had a full custom upgraded set that covered the oil pan, gearbox and transfer case.
I actually just stumbled across why my filter is where it is, I have the oil cooler option, Toyota part 15710-67040 and 15701-67030.
I would say that would be due to the cold climate you live in. 🤠👌
@@OzTrax4X4 Oh it's only -11C right now it's fine, tho I would have really preferred the fuel heater and block heater options. And frankly where I'm at rarely gets above 30, so it feels really silly having it, but the fact the Australian built ones dont have it is comical.
Only -11 😂
I camped in -7 for the first time a few months ago, and that was cold enough to freeze my door locks.
As it doesn't really snow in Australia unless you're in the alpine regions, there is really no need for anything additional as it just doesn't get super hot unless it's over summer.
Average temps would be 25 degrees give or take.
Hello thank you for your videos
I have question: where is the OBD connector located on this Prado, i have a prado 1998 VX ( 5VZ-FE engine ) with diagnosis port but can't find the OBD port.
Can you help me please.
Thank you
Hi Avec
That's a very simple and easy question to answer.
They don't have one unfortunately, it's the diagnostic port only.
The 120 series is when they started to have an OBD port.
@@OzTrax4X4
Thank you ❤
Thanks mate your video very good and easily understandable for everyone, I have a question Can I use fully synthetic 75w90 in front diff, rear diff and transfer case as diff need 80w90 but 75 is not too thin and will do job as its synthetic too, my car manual says GL5 90 and didn't mention 75W or 80W what you reckon?
Hi Azam
I'm glad it was easy to understand. 😊
In regards to your question about the oil viscosity.
75w90 would be too thin for the diffs.
I'd stick with what is recommended which is 80w90 for the front and rear diffs and the 75w90 for the transfer case.
The diff oil is formulated for the constant work the diffs do, being full-time 4WD, so that's why I wouldn't go changing the grade.
Hey mate can you tell me what hex size is used for the front diff
Unfortunately I don't have the 90 series anymore due to a pretty serious accident a year ago, so I can't check and let you know, but I think it was a 10mm hex from memory.
@@OzTrax4X4 hope you are alright after the accident bro
@@highwaymoses Still recovering to be totally honest. 18 months on and I struggle to do a lot of things still.
@@OzTrax4X4 sorry to hear it mate. keep doing physio and things will slowly improve. I've just had the metal removed from my hip which has improved my pain a lot. Possibly worth looking into for your shoulder. Each surgeon will have a different opinion
Cheers mate!
No worries bud. Hope this video helped. 💪🤠
Is it okay to use 85w90 to my front and rear diff?
I would stick with the 80w90 as that is what is specified to be used.
If you choose to add 85w90, then know that it will be a thicker oil when cold and may not be able to lubricate the bearings which could cause damage long term.
Mate where can I get the sama side step as yours?
They were custom made by a fabricator here.
I unfortunately don't have the 90 series anymore due to an accident, so can't show off the design.
This is the video of the manufacturing of them.
th-cam.com/video/ai-Vrv3fv8M/w-d-xo.html
hey mate how often should I do this? I do mostly road driving and every few weeks or month I give it a hard time at the beach all day
Hey bud! 🤠
Generally with a V6, every 10k for engine oil & filter, but if you're pedantic, 5k for both.
Turbo diesel every 5k.
Diffs I'd do every 40k.
Make sure you have breathers on those diffs, gearbox and transfer case.
For your trans, if it's auto and you're not confident in pulling the pan off and changing the filter (it's a messy job), take that to an auto trans specialist and do that yearly.
Otherwise do the manual trans at the same time as the diffs.
Also, if you're driving an auto, add an external trans cooler inline after your factory radiator pass-through trans cooler if you haven't done that as that gives extra cooling to your fluid and will make it last a lot longer and not burn it prematurely from excessive heat cycling.
@@OzTrax4X4 thanks for the info! it's a manual vx diesel! just got it in march stoked to of found such a rare one.. only issue is can't find in the service history in recent 40,000 ish kms if its been changed, it says theyve been checked but no doubt doesn't have good penrite in there, might have to do a peace of mind change!
Pretty rare to find a VX in manual, let alone diesel so look after her. 🤠
If in doubt, change it out.
For example, my 80 series that I now have hadn't had a service in 9 years as it was parked up, so switched out all the fluids and filters.
The one thing I will highly recommend is to grab some Fuel Doctor and follow the shock treatment/maintenance instructions on the back of the bottle.
It's an expensive outlay, but you'll gain a far nicer driving diesel out of it.
Preventative maintenance is key.
Also make sure you fit a catch can if you haven't already done so. 👌
@@OzTrax4X4 Wow never heard of fuel doctor?? says to put it in with a full tank of diesel and then put 25ml for the next few fills? I've never heard anyone talk about this but wonder what changes I'll notice?
Not sure if you can get it over where you are as it's an Australian product. 🤔
I've gained an extra gear uphill compared to how it was about a week or so ago.
Amazing takeaway from you folks down under - I intentionally head to a shop to spray the underside of my '97 90 series with oil to slow rust while you mention in your piece on intentionally cleaning the wayward oil - It makes under carriage service a royal mess but keeps the rust at bay... Canada - Sorry to hear you lost it from reading the comments- Brought mine in from Japan 4 yrs ago and hole to run it up to 500,000km
Fortunately for us, there is hardly any snow here, so our roads aren't salted, which makes it far easier to keep clean.
She was great, and did the job, but I find my 80 series to be far more suitable for what I do in it these days. 🤠👍
You never showed how to remove or replace the oil filter. The question is why
Unfortunately, the oil filter is in a hard to film location on the 90 series and I was filming this whole video myself, so it would have been very difficult to get a clear shot due to its location.
Anyone ever found a cabin filter location lol
They don't have one. 😆
Hi Mick how many kms do you need to change the oil on the diff mate
Diffs and transfer should be every 45,000kms bud.
Auto transmission every year with a new filter.
Manual transmission I'd probably do the same as the diffs/transfer case.