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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2024
- The Kansas Angler on Instagram: / thekansasangler
Parts list:
Dual USB Port Marine Boat Car RV Voltmeter 12V Socket 4 Hole Panel Switch Kit US: www.ebay.com/i...
SAE Power Socket: www.amazon.com...
Academy Sports Ammo Box: www.academy.co...
Cabelas rechargeable battery: www.cabelas.co...
16 Gauge wire
Insulate Terminals (mine came with the voltmeter and switch linked above)
Great video. Personally. I would run everything through fuses. Better to be safe than sorry
4:14 Paddle bits have no place in my toolbox. Use a step drill to get really tidy holes in thin plastic or alloy.
In general, the TI units are faster in response to inputs. This is seen when quickly switching between sonar, downscan, chart, and split screens th-cam.com/users/postUgkxeAxH15LxhjGlg5-CRYqjTGTEH0tbY4vk recommend The Hook units will show some lag on button pushes and screen switching. The big ticket item though is maps. If you install a mapping card such as Navionics or the free C-Map Genesis which has a lot of map detail, then moving around the map with the cursor or when running down the lake can lag significantly on the Hook units, but is seamless with the TI units.
A charge controller would be good to have, along with at least one fuse to protect the circuitry. You are doing a good job.
Nice idea on the box. These portable power boxes are fantastic. Im going to get busy working on one for my kayak. One thing i know that works great for drilling larger holes in plastic are step drills. Harbor freight sells a 3 pc. Set and they work great.
Nice build, and thanks for a few ideas!👍
Great build! Wire strippers are nice also add step bits for holes and cutting pliers for them wires.
I’ve been wanting to make some of these for a while, you’re video is very instructional and you can see exactly how you did it, which other video’s don’t show. I also just purchased that fish finder and wanted to make sure I had the right idea for powering it, great minds think alike!
Glad you found it beneficial Travis. And you'll love that fishfinder, it's changed the game for me. Tight lines!
Thanks for the great video. No experience of electronics but managed to build a box following your video.
Nice work. Liked your choice in SAE Connector Power Socket for the Only thing I might suggest is an inline fuse in the box.
1 1/8 keyhole saw is the right size for drilling the holes for those accessories, no sanding or grinding needed. Wago electric connectors are the best for wiring saves a lot of time.
step up bit works great for those holes. Great work.
I agree, just couldn't find mine. Probably time to pick up a replacement.
You can plug a small solar panel battery maintauner that SAE plug too. I did that on my 97 Blazer and it works perfect.
Great tip. I was thinking of adding a way to charge via solar soon. Good to know it works. Thanks!
This was awesome!!!! I want to make one of these!!!!
Go for it! They're not too tough to build and come in super handy on the kayak and in camp.
@@TheSpeedofTim could you make one and wire it up for me and ship and ill pay the costs
Great information, I shall be trying this out shortly, thank you!!
Very nice. Thanks for sharing
Hope it was beneficial. Have a good one!
Nice layout! I suggest a step bit for the holes, much cleaner and less to clean up afterwards.
I agree! Still need to grab one next time I'm at harbor freight
They definitely make your life easier. I got mine on Amazon
If you want to make a quick improvement, change your wiring from serial to parallel; this will negate the voltage drop you have at each consecutive power outlet.
Thanks for the tip! This was my first and I plan to build an improved model in the near future.
Can you describe the change that needs to be done? How do you make it parallel?
@@forgetyourlife Google can probably explain it better, but serial is where your circuit goes from one device to another, to another, to another, etc. You will get a Voltage drop after each device, and if one device goes out your entire circuit will break. Parallel is more like having two trunks, one for positive and one for negative and your devices connect to the trunk....there will still be a voltage drop because power is being used, but it will be the same voltage delivered to all devices rather than stepping down after each device; which can get complicated to compute for voltage sensitive things like LEDs. Also if a device in parallel fails, your circuit will not break.
So on this setup what would I need to change to make it parallel instead of series?
Hell yea man good stuff keep it up
Thank you my friend
Great job. Thank you for the video, it was really helpful and nice. Thanks
Thanks, I’m now going to build one.
Nice job.
Thanks!
By the way, the ammo boxes are available at Wallmart for $5.78....I just bought two.
I like the way you made the power box when make mine I will be using it for Amateur radio portable Ham Station. THANKS for the idea.73 AE4OY WILLIE P.EM-81uf 🤓⚡🔥😁
That's super cool! I remember my dad had a friend that was into Ham radio. Always loved check out his gear and chatting. Best of luck on the build!
Ya me too. I just need a bigger battery and a Anderson connection plug. I would like to see a ham build a box but only seems like the fishing guys have it.
@@brianmartin7964look up hamo can
Ham have built them for year
I use a biger battery Anderson power poles n a set of binder that use banana plugs in along ever thing he used but the fish finer plug but wire in series not parallel
N use a hole saw to drill the holes
N run it in reverse n a bit slower
The hole be cleaner
I built a anttna for 20m that set in my kayak i work hf out on the water n i got extra hach for front bulk head so i coud mount a soler panel
73 n good dx n9prf JOE
Great video! Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it. Have a good one. Tight lines!
Thank you for the video, very helpful! What economical battery charger would you suggest?
Crimper. Thanks nice video
Great job.... 🙏🏻
thx. great video.
Glad it was helpful. Tight lines!
How are you going to charge the battery?
Great video brother nice job 👍 New sub
Thanks my friend
I built a similar box, a little bigger more power, more lights, more stuff in general, added solar, the whole nine, was wondering do you like the inline blade fuse holder or the inline round fuse holder better? Which has held up the best? Any differences you have found between the two? thanks, cool video.
pictures?
I never use those cheap lawnmower battery charger connectors. XT60, gold plated, rated at 60 amps, is my standard for inline connectors. Also, replace (dangerous) cigar lighter plugs/sockets with DIN standard fittings.
All your batteries should be fused (at the Positive Pole) whether or not they're connected to something that's fused... Batteries will have a melt down if shorted and not fused... Ask me how I know.
Awesome video, thanks for showing all of the dirty work it takes to achieve a clean look. Do you think you would ever need a 7.5 fuse going from the battery to the quick connect plug? I know it is recommended when connecting a trolling motor to a larger battery but just not sure if it is needed here. The main reason I ask is that I'm working on a similar setup and in my stash of wires I have an in-line 7.5 fuse.
Good question. My wiring to my fish finder +which I use this for) already has an online fuse. There's no fuse on the provided charger, so I opted to not have one. Wouldn't hurt though, as long as you're still allowing enough juice through. Glad it was helpful!
Should've added a fuse block for later acc.
Great tutorial! thanks !
Hope it was helpful, and thanks!
Very cool, but why not go with a lithium iron-phosphate battery? A lot more power for the size/weight and a much longer service life.
Mostly just cost and availability. Would love to do another build with a more powerful, longer lasting battery.
@@TheSpeedofTim - The LiFePO4 batteries cost more, up front, but you really get what you pay for, especially in an application like this.
Nice. I'll take a look for my next build. Thanks for the tip.
Nice video. What happens when your turn on the power switch when you turn on the fish finder?
Add like a bigger battery 👍
Yeah, definitely need to do that this next season.
@@TheSpeedofTim good content through , I'm new to the channel 🤝
Thanks my friend. I need to get back at it soon. Last year was ROUGH
Great job. The battery boxes here in Australia (and probably every where) are either really crappy or way over priced. This has better features and a battery and heaps cheaper and I found all the parts easily. Stoked. Thankyou!
Glad to hear! I noticed the same here as well. Lots of additional cost for pretty much the same thing. Best of luck with your build!
Could you provide a list of all materials and tools required for this project.
I know I want to know what part is that
Sure - I added the below to the description as well:
Parts list:
Dual USB Port Marine Boat Car RV Voltmeter 12V Socket 4 Hole Panel Switch Kit US: www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-USB-Port-Marine-Boat-Car-RV-Voltmeter-12V-Socket-4-Hole-Panel-Switch-Kit-US/383287630051?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
SAE Power Socket: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V6NJ37P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Academy Sports Ammo Box: www.academy.com/shop/pdp/academy-sports--outdoors%E2%84%A2-field-ammo-box#repChildCatid=1271964
Cabelas rechargeable battery: www.cabelas.com/shop/en/cabelas-rechargeable-12v-battery
16 Gauge wire
Insulate Terminals (mine came with the voltmeter and switch linked above)
Tools Used: Dremel, hand drill, wire crimps
A step bit would have been better for the holes, if you have one handy (or want to pick one up).
Hope that helps!
Man that's is a nice battery box. I really need one of those for my kayak. Just trying to find the time to grab everything And put it together. After everything all set and done How much do you think you have invested in the battery box? I would like to do the same thing for my kayak. Great video man thank you for sharing.
Just off the top of my head, probably around $50 or so. I'd like to make another one before too long with some enhancements. I like the box as I use it as a general camping battery, helping to keep all things charged when out for the weekend.
@@TheSpeedofTim Okay that's not bad that's pretty cheap. I need to try to find those accessories and the box so I can build me one for When I out fishing and kayak camping.
I found a lot of the switches and such on Ebay. They were in a bundle, usually arranged on a plastic plate next to each other. I just popped them out of that plate and put them where I wanted. This is the one I purchased: www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-USB-Port-Marine-Boat-Car-RV-Voltmeter-12V-Socket-4-Hole-Panel-Switch-Kit-US/383287630051?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Hello,….
Can a lithium 12v 8ah battery be used for a 30amp trolling motor?
How long do you get out of a charge I’m looking to run led boat lighting phone charger off of it
Can you run the whole thing all at the same time
Yeah, I'm able to run them all at the same time. I don't do it often though. Would likely need to upgrade the battery, or add a second battery if doing that regularly.
Does anyone sell USB quick charge units and also USB C chargers for these projects or one to plug into a cigarette lighter plug the old slow USB chargers take too long for the newer devices designed for the USB type C chargers my phone was almost dead so I plugged it in to my sister's built in USB charger for 2 hours while we did some running around and then I headed home a 2 hour drive and it was dead before I got home in all that time plugged into her car it barely got any charge at all it seems strange that most newer vehicles are putting in USB chargers finally but even though USB quick chargers and USB type c have been out for years they haven't added quick charge or type C yet don't see cigarette lighter chargers either
Not that I'm aware of, but that's a cool idea. Please holler of you find one.
I believe most USB/C ports equipped on cars are mostly for data transfer and not necessarily for charging. For instance, the USB port that's available on my car only supplies .5amps of charging power, while most adapters put out at least 3amps. If you do buy a 12v (Cigarette plug) to usb charger you need to read how many amps the output is. The ones typically sold at gas stations are only .5 amps. Basically useless, especially when running a gps app on your phone.
I prefer ANKER. I've tested their portable batteries and they all come with the advertised capacity. All of their charging devices have a high amp out put and come with a warranty. I hope that helps.
Looks great, but how do you charge it back up? Do I need special charger or can I just plug it into a USB cable? What about water proofing it?
I just use the charger that came with the battery. I wired it to another saw connector so I just just plug it in when I get home. I haven't tried making it fully waterproof. I keep this in the hull of my kayak while out and it has never gotten wet, so don't have many concerns. The biggest thing your have to figure out is waterproof connectors and implements. Best of luck!
Throw a 12V inverter inside! Opens up a lot of camping and household uses.
Great video! I too have a Garmin Striker and am looking to do something very similar. Question - when charging the battery, did you attach an SAE connector to your charger so you can plug it into the sidewall port you installed? That’d be a big improvement over my current method of alligator clips (and messing with the female disconnects which always come undone). Thanks again!
That's exactly what I do. I purchased a set of two to make things super easy on me. The clips and exposed connections just made me too nervous.
@@TheSpeedofTim This was the exact question I came into the Comments to ask... charging input through the SAE output. Cheers.
How do you charge the battery?
How would one add a way to charge this via usb-c?
Can this be recharged? If so how?
Yep, the battery comes with a simple wall charger you can use. I adjusted it to work with my connectors
What is the name of the wiring component you first installed and what is the gauge of the wires used?
It's an SAE power plug, and I used 16 gauge wire I had around the house. Here's the SAE plug I used: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V6NJ37P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
How much sir
What are the dimensions of the box?
Sorry to say, the 5 dollar ammo box, is now $15 or more.
Do you need ventilation for the battery to prevent overheating?
I haven't run into any overheating issues, even with this in the box and in the sealed hull of my kayak on hit days. May be different if it's bigger and with more electric draw
No as it's a sealed lead acid. Doesn't vent and if it gets warm under charge it won't affect anything
I heard a lot of chipmunk cursing going on there….
Why didn't you use the crimpers on the cutters for all the spade connectors? You know they're called crimpers for a reason 😂
Ha! Yeah, I realized that I didn't quiet do that exactly as normally done. Crimping with the right thing would have been better. This at least worked and all of the connections are still good.
I noticed that also and was yelling at the screen. LOL. But looks like it turned out good and works.
Yeah, had to use what I had available. May build another one soon, with the right tools. Works well though!
May I ask the XT90 connector seat? ?
I'm not sure which part you're referring. I do have the full parts list in the description, which may help.
what gauge wire is being used.
Hey Jai. I just used some 16 gauge wire I had around the house
Perfect setup. How did you wire the SAE end to your Garmin connector?
Good question. The power cables for the Garmin we're bare, so I just added a SAE plug to the end of the power cable in my kayak hill. So I just drop the batter in the hull, plug in the power connector, and get to fishing.
you speed up the most interesting part