How to Make a Gameboy Macro from a DS Lite
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.พ. 2019
- An in-depth walkthrough of converting a Nintendo DS Lite into an unofficial Gameboy "Macro"! I think I covered everything in about as much detail as I can!
Even better, I got a new microphone to use during the recording, so that I didn't have to redub the audio after the fact. Hopefully, the end result is a bit better than the previous video!
Additional Info - Something I touched on in the video, but completely forgot to actually explain, was the specific resistor used in the video. In order to properly "trick" the DS Lite into thinking that the top LCD is connected, you need to use a 330 Ohm resistor (in my case, it was a 331, but close enough for tolerance purposes). I used an 0805 SMD resistor. The 0805 means that its dimensions are .08in x .05in, or 2mm x 1.3mm. It's the perfect size to fit between the two test points on the board.
If you're not comfortable working with such small SMD resistors, you can certainly use a traditional through-hole resistor as well. But, rather than soldering it through a hole, you'll cut the leads to length and bend them, such that they stick a bit out to the top and left of the test points.
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Hey, everyone! Thanks for checking out this video.
I wanted to throw a few links in the comment here and direct your attention to a few newer Macro videos of mine that might be worth checking out, if you want to continue building out your awesome Gameboy Macro. Please take a look at the following links if you're interested:
Building a Gameboy Macro with Boxy Pixel's Machined Aluminum Faceplate:
th-cam.com/video/HJrC-gNECXw/w-d-xo.html
Finishing a Gameboy Macro with Pant and Bondo:
th-cam.com/video/rRBfmQJrIZQ/w-d-xo.html
Creating a Gameboy Macro XL from an original Nintendo DS:
th-cam.com/video/lR-AlJbL_2A/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for stopping by!
I'm Sorry man, you removed only the right Power on light "thing".
What if i wanna remove the left "thing" how can i do that?
Thx for Reading!
Life saver! I was about to follow a 5-year-old tutorial that is more like a demo. Thank you so much for detailing how to do this. I bought a second ds in case I messed up, but I think now I will have 2 gbmacro thanks to you.
That's great! It's definitely a slow and steady process, but very easy once you've done one or two. I know the first time I did one, I was terrified I'd mess it up. But now, if I were to do another one (not on camera), I could probably knock it out in 20-30 minutes.
Good luck! Leave a comment after you do it; I'd love to hear your success story!
0:00 examples of mods
4:22 opening the system
Nice screwdriver kit :)
Of course! It was recommended by someone named Elliot. He makes some pretty sweet videos, and used this same kit. :)
@@TheBrokenPast As in... Him.
@@raphcaswell-jones932 lol I assume he knew
Thanks I have had a broken Ds lite in my possession for 5 years now just sitting , now I know what to do with it
Sounds fun. Good luck on your project!
super satisfying to watch, calm voice was a 10 out of 10, i literally fell asleep watching this
Just finished making 2 of these thanks to this tutorial. No other tutorial is this detailed.
Wonderful! Thanks for the kind word. :)
Me makes two forgets to set it to bottom screen and auto play 😡😐
Thanks so much for the awesome video. I made mine and it turned out great! I'm super happy with it. Honestly couldn't have done it without this video
You're welcome! I'm glad it helped!
Totally gunna do this on my ds lite. Great vid, really enjoyed it and it was very detailed
Thanks for the kind words! Good luck on your project!
Thanks to your guide I was able to make my first modification and start messing up with hardware. Thank you so much!!
45:30 soldering points
Thank you so much for the tutorial! Now I can finally play all these gba games again!
The Broken Past man how do you only have 500 subs? So much content.
planning to watch the entire video. Your the only person who has explained the need for the 330ohm resistor. I have damaged the small ribbon cable (I now know its the digitizer. the black flap snapped off) and not necessary. I plan on finishing my macro thanks to what I've seen.
Great! Good luck on the project! If you broke off the flap on the connector for the, you’re not out of luck. The digitizer isn’t actually required for a macro build. You’ll need need to follow a few additional steps and remove the digitizer from the display itself, since it’s not really going to be of much use any longer. You can check out one of my most recent videos, where I removed the digitizer to fit in a smaller form-factor shell, if you need to see how to do so.
Come back and let us know how the project goes for you. Hoping for success!
HOW the hell do younot have more subs sweet Jesus!. This content is soo good!. I am in awe lol!. Great work bud! ❤️
This tutorial is awsome. Now I'm actually going to attempt doing this
Have fun!
Very nice video man, don't think this is for me but this is a very in-depth tutorial for anyone who will do this
Thanks for watching, and the great feedback!
If you ever want to give it a shot, I would recommend picking up a cheap broken one off of eBay for ~$10 or so. That way, if it doesn't work when you're done, you're not out much!
Me: *Sees this video*
Ah I see… *TEARS OFF THE TOP SCREEN OF MY SIS’S DS LITE!*
You monster
RIP some good ds lite that still works
You *monster....*
Yoonqiix she did it first :(
@@tenaciouscreator5787 Sad but one question I know this is s stupid question but why did she did it?
Excellent video. One thing I would say is at the beginning you could have made a list of tools and bits that we would need to do it.
Im a noob and didn't know I needed a resistor. I've ordered a pack of them now though so once they arrive I'll be able to finish it off.
Thanks for the walk-through buddy.
Thank you so much for this video, I’m going to try and do this on my broken DS lite
Very nice guide! I made 4 now but never removed the SD-card slot. Makes installing the speaker easier, thnx for the tip. Reinstalling the shoulder buttons takes longer than the modifications inside :D
I always remove the X and Y button using fiberglass putty or polyester filler and a lot of sanding :D
Sanding the DS down, a few coats of primer and a really bright green/orange/red finish makes these things look awesome!
That's a great idea for the buttons! I think I'll probably try that with one of these once the weather cooperates a bit more, and I can get outside and work on them. Stay tuned for a video on the process in the (hopefully near) future!
5 year old: Can it play fortnite
The new version of "But can it play Crysis?"
The Broken Past true
Kacper Bala Kokosek right
Can it play uncharted 3?!?! Lol
Can it play roblox
Great guide! Just finished off my first Macro and it's working flawlessly. I came across an older guide saying to remove the digitizer for better screen quality. What are your thoughts?
Depending on what your end goal is, removing the digitizer is certainly an option. I have another video out that I put out awhile after this one, which uses a BoxyPixel aluminum faceplate. This works best if you do remove the digitizer, so I definitely did it in that video!
You a legend 🙏🏻
This is amazing. I'm really looking forward to trying it. Thanks for such a great, informative video.
Question: if you cut out some of the molding, could you place the speaker to the side of the DS cartridge slot instead of in its place?
You're welcome, and you sure can!
I'm not certain on which colors correspond to which types, but I have noticed two different "frames" for the bottom shell. One has permanent molding in it that would prevent the speaker from being installed, and another has a small clip that you can remove, along with removing the stylus tray. On these, there's enough room on the side opposite the battery area (between the audio jack and the network / bios card connector, where you can stick the speaker with some adhesive, and fire it out the rear of the shell. On the types of shell that it doesn't quite fit in, I suspect you should be able to trim out the opening a bit to get it to fit.
The bet part is to just try it out and experiment. Good luck, and have fun with it!
Very nice, did you reopen it to remove the protective film from the tape lol?
U can still play ds just go into the setting change the screen layout lile if u want the ds part on bottom change the layout
YT Wolfeez what. The only reason to do this it sounds like is if the ds lite is broken and you just want to make a gba emulator out of it. When it already can play gba games. You don’t need to remove the top part to battle and play on pokemon games, but removing the top would prevent the usage of DS games
@TheRaellz leave it in
May I ask what kind of soldering gun you're using? And what do you call that thing that looks like a highlighter, that you use so the solder sticks better
While soldering on the VGND pad I accidentally burnt off the golden pad to solder on. Is there another way to wire the speaker? Or what’s a different option for sound?
Hi! Thanks for the guide!
Is there any other place I can solder the resistor instead of the LEDC2 point? Because I accidentally damaged it while trying to solder there.
Is there anything I can do to save it? Thanks!
Thank you for the in-depth coverage on this! I appreciate the detailed step by step walkthrough! I'm wondering if you've ever tried this process with a DSi or DSi XL? I know that it doesn't have the GBA slot but the specs a little better than a DS lite and I imagine that it would be easy to run GB/C/A games via emulation quite easily on the device. The main benefits in my mind would be the increased screen size.
I'd love to hear your thoughts on it! Cheers
Good question! I'm sure there's probably a way to do it with a basic flashcart for a DSi. I'm not sure if they will still require you to have both screens or not (so you can see when navigating between menus for the flashcart. I'm not terribly familiar with those options. The beauty of doing it with a DS/DSLite is the ability to run the games natively, and only need a single screen to access them, and not have to worry about compatibility issues when trying to run them.
That does sound like it'd be a fun project to try out though!
@@TheBrokenPast Yes! I've been doing a bunch of research on GB Macros and after commenting on your video, I did actually come across one follow who managed this with a DSi. This is a project I would like to pick up for myself as I'm looking to have a new handheld device for retro gaming before summer vacation this year. I have the original native option in the form of the original consoles. So for traveling, emulation is a very appealing option as it means that I only need to carry the console and the charger sans all of my games! If this is something you happen to get into yourself (research/fiddling) maybe we could compare notes again sometime. Thanks for the response!
That sounds great! There's a lot of good emulation out there. (Of course, the legality of it is a big of a gray area. So long as you own the original copy of it... ;) ). I love emulating on a PSP. It works well, and the form factor feels so nice.
If you do something like this with a DSi, I'd love to hear how you did it! That sounds like a project that would be a lot of fun to do, and fiddle with!
If I dive in, I'll likely document it and let you know how it went, @@TheBrokenPast :-)
@@JeremyKingTech Awesome!
Recently I bought a gameboy dmg backlight from Handheld Legend and had a shitton of trouble getting it to work. The pictures provided were shitty, there were no detailed videos with a quality above 144p, and overall it was a huge mess. I eventually got it to work but not before almost breaking my dmg and being super frustrated.
And then I come across this video and you're giving an in depth tutorial with everything explained in detail. Still waiting on resistors but everything so far in the process has been good. Thanks for making awesome content like this dude I really appreciate it!
I'm so glad you found it helpful! Thanks for the kind words!
That’s dope af 🙌🏽💯
would it work if I used a 330ohm resistor in series with a led (on LEDA2 and LEDC2), so I can make a lit up rod like the neon advance?
Do I need to connect the Digitizer in order to work? I kinda damage the cable and the locking mechanism on it
Oh this seems fu-
1:04
My ds lite: *o my god they fckin deaaaad*
just made one, because gba backlight kits are expensive. still a very good tutorial!
You looked lonely I liked ur comment
where did you get your resistor?
you think you could make a tutorial to install the Anton's Veretenenko's GBAmp v3 on the GBC? The tutorial Anton provides is just a picture of where to solder the wires.
Thanks for the suggestion!
I'd be happy to do one. I have quite a bit of backlog right now (working on a DSi case swap, a 2DS screen replacement, an OG Macro XL conversion, among other things. I'm a bit hesitant to spend too much extra money right now since the channel is so new and view count is so low, but if I can get traffic up so that I know I'll get the audience, I'd be happy to buy a spare GBC and that mod and make a video of the installation!
This may sound like a dumb question, but I have some odd ball ohm resistors, and I dont specifically have a 330 ohm, could I use something like a 1k resistor?
Great question. I do believe there's some wiggle room on the resistance expected. I'm not sure if you can go all the way up to a 1K resistor though. I came across someone who tried to do something similar, and ended up just getting a constantly flashing power indicator, but YMMV for sure. Give it a shot and report back if you'd like!
Hey. Thank you very much for this video. I did this today with my "spareparts DS Lite" and it was awesome. I had so much fun. This was the first time I soldered and I had to use a barrel resistor, because I only have those. But it works, and I feel so proud :) It fits inside the case, but it was rather tricky to bend it and cut it so that the little legs don't touch anything (I used heat resistant tape in 3 layers before I turned the DS on, just to be sure nothing will wiggle its way to heaven.) And it was a bit challenging to get the solder to stick on the speaker cables after I burned them a bit to remove the lagging (I kept the antenna, mic and speaker but I cut them back then. ) I don't know how to remove the lagging correctly, this was something we call a Schnappsidee. ^^
Another Schnappsidee: Could I just put the wifi antenna and the mic in my shell and use it, since "we" put the part for this back on the board, or would I need another resistor?
I had so much trouble with removing the DS-game-slot. I used the pump, the lace and flux... but it took me at least an hour and I damaged the slot badly and almost the board. This was so hard, because sometimes the lace got stuck on the board and sometimes the solder was rockhard and stayed that way... I melted the plastic parts in this area a bit just by holding the iron so long...
I did this for training, but I wasn't able to get the lace "soaked". Maybe some of you have a tip for me.
But still, it was fun. And thanks to you great tutorial I was able to do it. :)
Next time I see a broken DS Lite on ebay, I will try to keep the DS-game-slot just for fun.
Thanks for watching! I'm glad it was helpful, and it sounded like you had a great time doing your first Macro conversion! The first one is always the trickiest, and is bound to go along with some mistakes and some frustration in the process. (*hint hint* - keep an eye out for my video this afternoon, where I fail miserably on my first attempt at a mod!)
I suppose you could always put the mic and the antenna back in the shell, though I don't think it's necessary. To my knowledge, there are no GBA games that would use a microphone or a wifi antenna, so there's not a huge need to leave them in the board. You don't need a resistor for those, as they're not checked when the system boots (you just need to make sure you keep the wifi / bios board installed). The antenna wires don't matter.
Yeah, sometimes the desoldering braid / lace can get stuck, if it cools before you remove it from the solder points. I've had that before, and it can be a pain to try to heat back up and remove! As far as getting it "soaked", I think that nicer quality braid (probably more expensive) will do a better job at wicking up the solder, so that might help in your situation.
Best of luck on your next mod!
@@TheBrokenPast Thank you. :)
My braid was indeed pretty cheap. I will try another one.
Since I had so much fun, I tried to repair an older DS Lite I had. I broke the little thing that connected the ribbon cable for the touchpad with the board, so this will be another macro...
Well I assume that one cannot solder ribbon cables because they might not be heat resistant. I don't want to wreck the touch display that way.
And I had problems to get the touchpad to work when I tried to repair it the first time. I put the old touch display into another DS Lite to try it and it worked, so might be that it (the board) was broken before I touched it again today.
So yeah, I now have the parts I would have needed to repair the one I already turned into a macro. Stuff happens.
I will build the next one next week.
But this time, I will try to play with some LED lights.
And this time, I cut the gameport like you did. Don't want to burn the board again.
btw: I totally forgot, that it won't play ds games anymore and that makes the antenna and mic unnecessary. ^^°
Things needed to follow this guide (Tell me if I missed anything):
1. DS Lite with working bottom screen, buttons, 1 speaker, volume & power switches
2. Tri-wing screwdriver
3. Philips screwdriver
4. Spudger
5. Tweezer
6. Soldering iron, solder, desoldering wick & flux
7. Clippers/Scissors (Cut the solder at 31:19)
8. 0805 330 Ohm resistor (As per the description)
9. Isopropyl Alcohol (Cleaning purposes)
Nice video!!!
Thanks!
That so awesome 😎
Is there a way to connect the to screen to the bottom since it is a better looking display?? Plus I don't think you will ever need the touch once you do this mod..?
Unfortunately, I don't think there's a way at all to try to make the top display work in the bottom area. The pin layout is different (I think even the pin count may be different), and the ribbon is arranged in such a way that it can wrap around the hinge, rather than connecting directly to a nearby connector.
You are correct though, the touch screen isn't necessary once this mod is done! You can leave it in, if you're using the same shell, as it helps to align things a bit easier. Or you can remove it entirely if you don't want it, and help to make the underlying screen look better without the digitizer in front of it. Take a look at my Gameboy Macro with a BoxyPixel aluminum faceplate if you want to see the process of removing the digitizer altogether.
I just made 2 of these the other day and I notice I am getting the quick flash of the yellow light when I go to charge them. Have you experienced this? I am going to pick up a multi meter and see if the fuses are blown tomorrow. Im wondering what I did in the process for this to happen.
Sorry for not replying back sooner. If you're seeing the flash when trying to turn it on, it likely means that either your ribbon cable for the screen isn't fully inserted, or the resistor is not properly soldered on (or you're using the wrong value resistor). For a quick test, I would reinsert the ribbon cable for the LCD display, and verify that it's fully seated. In most cases, that seems to be the culprit.
Good luck!
At the begining I thought you remove the card slot to make room for both speakers. Nice work anyway.
Very detailed. Thanks.
I would love to know how to do stereo sound
Stereo sound is definitely possible. There are test points for both the left and right speakers. You can simply solder them both up, and then will just have to find a spot to position them both. I know some have modded space to the front of the system for stereo front-firing speakers. Others have used iPhone or Switch speakers, which are sized differently, and have found other spots to position them.
Hi there what size of resister is needed thanks
47:49 can you tell me the name of this small square? i cannot find anywhere
where did you get the resistor? I'm currently making my own macro and would like to know since it's the only thing I need
Great question!
I actually just bought them off of eBay from a random seller for cheap. I needed 330 Ohm, 0805-sized resistors, and found a seller who was selling them for cheap on there, and picked up a few sets!
Here's an example of a seller you could buy from, that is selling the exact same ones as what I used (I have no affiliation with this seller):
www.ebay.com/itm/121357880834
Good luck on your macro conversion!
@@TheBrokenPast Thanks man! I really appreciate it
You're welcome!
@@TheBrokenPast Is this right, or will it work just as well? www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QGQ5XHM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can still use your "DS MACRO" with some ds games like Mortal Kombat , wich let you chose the screen you wana play :) (if you do not remove the ds card slot)
I want more videos like this, i have a broken 3ds and i want to do something functional with it
The 3ds doesn't have a gba slot
I found this video from an ad
It took me a minute to realize where I've heard your voice before. Has anyone ever told you that you sound like a young Jeff Goldblum?
Haha, nope! I can't say that I have been told that before!
Fun Fact: The Nintendo ds Has the Gameboy Advance CPU the ARM7TDMI but its clocked at 33 MHz instead of 16.78 MHz, meaning backwards compatibility was a thing these days.
At 54.50 i couldn't hear any speaker audio. Should it be the startup chime. Mine just makes a small crackle. I have used sp0 and gnd like you did. I have an led/resistor in my circuit. I also took off the sdcard case.
Hmm, that's a tough one!
Do you know if the speaker worked before? It's possible that the speaker's bad. It's also possible that maybe the wire isn't soldered on well enough, and it's not making contact. It's also possible that the volume slider may not have gotten reinstalled correctly, and the volume isn't in the position that it appears to be. Lots of potential stuff to check, unfortunately!
Good luck!
@@TheBrokenPast didnt check volume but speaker worked well and felt solder joints were good. Will continue to solve. Patience is key
Thanks again. Its all together and working! My tri-color led effect is working well at the hinge.The screen color is a bit off and so is the viewing angle. I may have damaged the lcd a bit. Will come back to it in the future.
@@dazamad Awesome, well done!
Does it matter is it's a 1% or 5% resistor?
Yeah but what resistor did you use
Ahh dude i love your channel. Nintendo ds lites are my hobby. I like to make em new... I got one on ebay complete functioning with just some dead pixeles on the downpart of the Touchscreen. For 8,50€
Thanks for the kind words!
Yes, DSes are a lot of fun to work on and make new! That sounds like a great deal on the one you got. The lower screen is the best one to go bad too, as replacing it is super easy. Much better than having to replace the top screen!
@@TheBrokenPast Hahaha, thats true. BUT The Nds is Pink, and dirty...
So it will get a complete new casing/shell anyways.
Fun!
I have an issue, all is conected but when I turn it on, it suddenly shout down.
for future reference: the expansion board is exclusively wifi, no BIOS involved
Really nicely done video thanks for sharing also I thought somewhere in settings you could change it from English to Japanese, settings globe pick the language English okay.....
Mmm all this just to play Gameboy Advance games, too bad they weren't more backwards compatible to where you can play from Gameboy DMG 1 all the way up to Gameboy Advance.
P.S. Here's some hints for modifying the shell using Tamiya putty White it is a great filler for when you're shaving the plastic it Sands real nicely and it works pretty good, working and customizing with models I love this stuff.
That's a great idea to use Tamiya putty! I wonder if the "green stuff" work work as well too? I've never used either of those, but if they sand and sculpt well, that may be a much better solution than using the Bondo that I used.
Thanks for the tips!
Hi, i have a question: (i know i'm too late but maybe there's someone who is still watching this in 2020 like me...) does it work without the speaker? I don't want to remove the slot 1 for DS games and i was asking if it's possible
Can I get a link off the tool you bought
Hi, dumb question. Can I do this if my top screen is working just fine
Do you mean moving your top screen to the bottom? If so, no. Unfortunately the pinouts are different, and the ribbon won't fit into the lower connector.
where do you get that resistor?
I actually just bought them off of eBay from a random seller for cheap. I needed 330 Ohm, 0805-sized resistors, and found a seller who was selling them for cheap on there, and picked up a few sets!
Here's an example of a seller you could buy from, that is selling the exact same ones as what I used (I have no affiliation with this seller):
www.ebay.com/itm/121357880834
you've probably figured this out by now but if you go to the globe after pressing the wrench you can change the language
Good catch. You’re right! I didn’t know that at the time of making this video. Since that point though, I randomly stumbled across that setting one day when setting up another of these Macros. I actually used that when configuring the language on the Macro that I set up in my most recent video. Made it way easier when it came time to configure it to use the lower screen for GBA games!
Thanks for the tip!
Hey I have a question...Where to put the speaker if I want to leave the cartridge slot in, can you just tell me if left or right in 1:01:01
Good question!
I've noticed some inconsistencies in the way the bottom shells for these things are moulded. Sometimes there's supports on the shell, and sometimes there's not. In most cases, if you leave the cartridge slot in, you can simply place the speaker on the left side, right over top of the large black chip. I'll usually use some sticky pad and position it on the chip itself, and then put the speaker on it. You'll need to remove the stylus slot holder, and support bracket that sits in there.
Where it seems to get confusing sometimes is that I've noticed some shells don't have a removable support bracket surrounding the stylus slot holder. So, you remove the stylus slot, and yet it still doesn't fit in there very well. You my have to do some testing and finagling to try to get it to fit nicely, depending on the variation of shell bottom you have.
Good luck!
The Broken Past Thanks for your fast respond and your deep answer. But I still don’t know what you mean by saying large black chip. Do you mean the thing you used to fix the cable of your speaker in this case, or do you mean the smaller one bellow
The smaller one below it. Just to the right of the component with "100" written on it. There's a little IC there that you can position the speaker on top of with a bit of sticky pad.
The socketed board above it is the Wifi / BIOS chip, that I used to help secure the speaker wiring in place.
The Broken Past Thanks alot, you have a really nice channel here, subbed
Thank you!
Does anyone know where he got that resistor?
what is flux used for?
Flux is used to help remove some oxidation on the pads, as well as to improve "wetting" of the solder, to help it flow properly and sit where you're intending it to on the various pads, wires, etc.
I threw my old ds lite around when I got mad years ago and it worked when I shook it but eventually it stopped ythink it could be turned into this?
That all depends on what may have broken when it got tossed around. If it doesn't work, then you're not out much by trying to disassemble it and taking a look!
@@TheBrokenPast well ur tutorial was very interesting :) you've earned a subscriber :)
will it work with the touchscreen ribbon disconnected? i broke the lock
Yes, you don't need the touchscreen at all. Most people actually peel the digitizer off the screen, which makes it look much clearer. If you do this, you have to peel the border off the digitizer and stick it onto the screen.
This conversion seems like a mixed bag because no sleep mode and on DS you're forced to use A and B buttons making it a less than ideal way to play GBA games anyway. (I realized this when I got Mega Man Zero Collection for DS. I wanted to play with B and Y, like on Mega Man X on SNES, not A and B) At least on GBA it doesn't have a Y button so it feels less weird not being able to use them.
Great comment!
You're right, one of the things that stinks is the lack of a sleep functionality, now that the top of the shell no longer closes over the sensors on the board. However, something to keep in mind is that sleep mode on the DS Lite when in GBA mode, simply turns off the speaker and the LCD. Of course, that's going to be bit more power saving than if they were both still on, but it's still going to drain the battery at a pretty decent pace.
The issue with the Macro that I made in this video, was that I didn't do any actual modifications to the body of it. As such, all four buttons were there; even though two of them weren't in use. If you watch one of my later videos, I actually mod the shell with bondo and paint over it; covering up the two unnecessary button holes and hiding them altogether. In one of my more recent videos, I did the same thing, using Boxy Pixel's aluminum shell, which came pre-molded without the two extra button holes. It makes it feel much more "polished" not having those extra buttons in the shell that aren't even used any longer!
Oh, I didn't know that about GBA mode not having a proper sleep mode. Thanks for commenting back.
@@benlastname3478 Of course! Thanks for watching :)
The only DS game that's compatible with the Game Boy macro is Mario Kart DS, just look at the bottom screen when you race.
Plzz answer can u use a led light
link to where i can buy the resistor?
Here you go! 1,000 of them for under $10:
www.amazon.com/uxcell-Resistor-Resistors-Tolerance-1000pcs/dp/B07QCM8BM8
if the to screen does not work, fine. but if its not broken. DON TUCH THE DS
I wouldn't quite go that far!
Of course, I would hate for people to ruin perfectly good consoles to convert to a Macro. But there's more than just a broken screen that would make it worth making a Macro from it. Many times, the hinges on these things give way. The outer shell will crack, and the hinge won't hold the screen up any more. To replace the hinge, you pretty much have to reshell the entire console. At that point, you risk breaking more, or even breaking the top ribbon cable for the screen in the process. So in those cases, if you want to, it makes sense to do a Macro conversion instead!
what about the ds slot...will it work also?
yes but there is no point
54:43 if my ds didn't turn on, does that mean I did it wrong? I tried plugging it in instead because the battery might have been dead and it still didn't turn on
Does it do anything at all? Does the screen flicker? Does the power light come on? Anything?
@@TheBrokenPast I think I might've blown its fuse. The orange light comes on for about half a second then shuts off.
can someone please time stamp the part where he makes it not require to top screen to turn on, im up to that point in my own one
Around 51:44
You do know that you can change the language of the DS to default to english, right?
Ok... what's the freaking point of leaving the touchscreen touch intact, when you removed access to NDS Slot-1?
Oh, just to touch the main menu? Touch brightness settings?
This dude created the 1DS
-2DS
Could I just take a resistor from one of my spares ds or where I get them
I suppose that's certainly possible. Off the top of my head, I'm not sure if I've seen a 330 0805 on the board in another spot, but if there is one, you could certainly do that!
Can we do multiplayer GBA stuff with these and is it possible for them to play GB and GBC games?
Frankie Bloodshed Gaming ds lights don’t play gbc :(
@@kiyoshipoo8369 I know, I'm asking if there is a way to modify them to do so
Frankie Bloodshed Gaming there might be a way. that’d be sick if so
Unfortunately, multiplayer games are out of the question. However, GB and GBC games are a possibility for sure. I should have a video out here shortly that touches on that topic! Stay tuned ;)
Is it possible to make this with a 3ds or dsi?
That's a good question. I'm sure it's probably feasible to do so, in a similar manner! Unfortunately, since those don't have a GBA slot in them, it's not as simple as just plopping in a GBA game and playing it on the lower screen. You'd have to get a flashcart of sorts, that would be able to emulate other systems. There's probably something out there like that, but at the moment I'm unaware of such a thing.
Do you need the digitizer?? Mine snapped off
You don't!
I kept it on mine, so I could still use the touch to work on it, but it's entirely optional and not needed. Note that if you do remove it when using the stock faceplate, you'll need to put some padding spacers on the inside, to keep it from wiggling around inside of the shell once you put it all back together.
Another option is to get a BoxyPixel faceplate, which requires that you remove the digitizer, in order to sit nicely inside it. You can see a video here:
th-cam.com/video/HJrC-gNECXw/w-d-xo.html
where I built one without the digitizer.
Good luck!
1:10 Low battery? Look at the red LED!
Me if I was a DS but the red light mean danger
I love how this guy just tears apart perfectly good DS Lites and rips off the top. Boom. Gameboy Advance.
Hey now! I didn't just rip it apart! I found ones that were already broken and repurposed them into something useful.
Though now that I think about it, going Hulk on a perfectly good DS Lite and tearing it in half would make for a fun video....... ;)
Alternate reality where Nintendo stuck with the Game Boy branding, made these, and went onto 3D stuff with the same brand
Can it use r4 card?
I tried to do this with my dsi
where u get the tools?
Most of the tools are from an iFixit toolkit I got a number of years ago. Pretty nice kit. You can find clones / other brands for much cheaper nowadays.
i had a broken DS light and watched this video to convert it , every thing went well until i tried using the left and right shoulder buttons for some of the games i have and they don't work , is this correct , as iv'e seen pictures of some with them filled in as well as the y and x button
Yep!
Did you bondo the front plate? The biggest thing to keep in mind is that there is very little clearance around the L & R shoulder buttons. This means that if you're bondo-ing over those areas on the front faceplate, that you might need to make sure to dremel out any excess bondo overflow. Even a little bit extra there can cause clearance issues around the shoulder buttons, and prevent them from moving freely.
I'll have a follow-on video of the process I use to fully finish these macros hopefully sometime in the near future. I need to wait for the weather to warm up, so I can actually do some bondo work. But in the meantime, take a look at any interference you might have, if you filled those holes up with filler putty.
Good luck!
@@TheBrokenPast hi there , thanks for getting back to me , what i mean is the shoulder buttons work as should but they do not function , they are disabled in some way , i got a gameboy advance screen added and re sprayed the case it looks very smart and i even play on it more than the micro i have , but the down side is the shoulder buttons , great video by the way , i am thinking of buying another broken ds and trying it again
Hmm, that sounds quite odd!
The shoulder buttons should definitely work. If they're moving around properly, and the pointed part of the plastic bumper is making proper contact with the switch itself on the motherboard, then it sounds like you're running into a somewhat common fault with these consoles, where the tactile button itself is faulty. One of the biggest causes of this is just dirt / dust inside the button. I'd suggest taking the back cover off, and blowing some air into the button. This should help to fix the button, if that's what's causing it.
If it still doesn't work after that, try making sure that the button's still soldered nicely to the board, and didn't get bumped loose during the macro conversion process.
Either way, I'd still buy another broken DS to try again. I've done so many of these, and yet they're still fun to work on! :) Thanks for the kind word!
@@TheBrokenPast hi there again i did what you told me and they both work fine now thanks for that excellent information
Glad to hear it!
Does anyone know if this would work on a dsi?
It does not because the nintendo dsi does not have a gba slot so it can't play anything other than ds games. Unless you wanted to homebrew or get a flash cart and just use it for some portable emulation
This is like a horror hospital with DSs instead of people
Yep! Rather than letting them die, we send them home, without arms or an upper torso. :)
@@TheBrokenPast now im just wondering if its possible to fuse a gba slot into a DSi
Which it's probably not
Atleast not easily
I actually have a DS Lite that i accidentally broke... the top screen is hanging by one of the hinges (the ribbon cable hinge)
Hmm, that's a good question. I would highly doubt that were possible though. Even if you could somehow find solder points to attempt to solder in a GBA slot, I wouldn't think the OS would be built to support it. Always fun to experiment it to see what you can create!
Can I harvest any resistors and get the same functions? I have an old pc motherboard with 115 resistors. Can those work?
This guy got the Mario 35 Game And Watch early XD
The audio?