This is a good example of why Eric is king! Sure, there are other people doing other videos, but they all fall into one of two categories. Either they're an amature trying to sell you on some God awful whacked out, shortcut that does more harm than good, or they're a mechanic's shop using a cleaned up, newer, car, and editing out any problems with seized bolts, sheared bolt heads, etc ... Eric throws an older, rusted up, car up on the lift and shows you how a professional deals with the good, the bad, and the ugly, of it all.
It's always satisfying to watch Eric work on cars, especially when everything goes so smoothly, it's like cutting through butter with a hot knife, just. So. Satisfying.
I admit I am a bit late with this comment, Eric, (only 8 years late!), but its great to see someone who has the knowledge and the tools, especially that suspension spring press, doing a great job. I have a carbureted 1989 Honda Accord Ex and, looking through the shop repair manual this morning, I see that it basically has the same components, except my car not having an anti-lock brake system. Not that I'm going to do that sort of work anytime soon, but I enjoyed your video. Thank-you Eric.
Honestly if this was at a shop this would be about $1000 dollar job without even the parts included so this dude knows what he doing Car repair is so expensive I’m been in automotive job for about a month yesterday we took out cv axle Eric did this and made this look easy I mean suspension work is easy but those frozen bolts and nuts are the hard part Stay good Eric man! Gr8 vid
Eric, it's my opinion that the early 90's Honda/Acura cars were the best looking and driving. Please update us on how shes handling after the new parts. Great videos, keep them coming!
Miss my dad's old '93 Vigor LS. Those cars went forever with general maintenance and make for great winner cars. Great video +ericthecarguy with useful tips and tricks.
Eric I've said this before I'm an automotive student at my high school I'm proud of myself as I got top student but that's besides the fact. Yourvideos help me impress my teachers as I've learned most of my knowledge from you I want to be a master mechanic when I get older at hopefully a Honda dealer as that's where my dad was a master mechanic so I just want to thank you for your videos I really hope you see this comment
Nice to see you keep an eye on your old Vigor. My second car is a Rover 620 wich is basically a Honda Accord, so I'm grateful for all of your Vigor uploads. THANK YOU Eric and Brian!
I do not envy the amount of rust some folks put up with. Here in Australia I'm so lucky, a couple of my cars are over 30 yrs old and I don't have half as much crusty rust underneath the car. Lot of respect for flat rate techs in the rust belt...
is really nice to see you back on hondas and very good quality of videos thanks to the camera men im a fan of you from guadalajara jalisco mx. master Eric
It's a great chance to replace the brake hoses. I recently replaced them on a 98 Volvo V90 and it made a big difference. The original brake feel returned; much nicer to drive.
Man I'm so glad I found these videos, I have a 2003 civic that I'd love to keep but stuff is going wrong with it. I've changed my struts and shock assemblies, break rotors and pads, lower tie rod ends. I wouldn't have even tried to do that stuff before, I'm going to be swapping an engine next month and I'm sure it will go smoothly as it can. Thanks
Hey Eric, I just bought a ten piece 10mm to 19mm set of 3/8 drive long metric impact swivel wobble sockets by Cal Hawk for 60 bucks free shipping. They are made in Taiwan (which is usually better than china) and crmo. They seem nice and come with a case and you can't beat the price. I am convinced that all of these companies are selling the same sockets made in the same factory but having the factory put their name on it. The Cal Hawk set looks identical to the grey pneumatic set to me and even the case looks the same. They also sell a nice 12 piece 1/4 drive impact set which I also bought.
Damn you Eric, all those shinny new parts- by the end of the video I felt like I needed to sit my ass in the seat and go for a test drive to feel the new suspension and you denied me that. My day is ruined, I will always wonder how the ride felt with the new parts compared to the old parts.
The thing you said about the lower bolts frozen in the bushings is very true! I had the subframe of my 2001 accord on the floor and tried to remove the lower controlarm, which is mounted with pretty much the same kind of bolt, from the frame. There is no way getting this thing out of there!!! I ended up cutting the controlarm in little pieces so can cut the bolt in little pieces without damaging the subframe^^ it was fun...
Thanks Eric!! I daily drive a 93 accord (the 2liter version with the carburator) and also feel and hear some worn out parts from the front end. I am gonna put your video up to good use once again!
just an FYI, Honda sells those upper strut mount bushings for about 2.50 a piece. That could be the reason why your suspension makes creaking noises over smaller bumps or when its really cold outside. Its a problem in places like Arizona where the rubber crumbles, dry rots or cracks which is a pretty big safety concern.
Having lived in the south my entire life (Atlanta, GA, to be specific), I'm always amazed by the rust... I just don't ever have to deal with that much rust. I can take apart a 20-year-old car that has spent its entire life here, and, sure, there's a *little* bit of rust, and sometimes things get a *little* sticky, but I've never *ever* had a cotter pin break off because of it being too rusty to remove. That would drive me nuts!
LMacNeill Rust is a fact of life for those of us in the rust belt states. Used to be dealing with only salt, now they are using chloride liquid as well, that stuff causes rust a LOT faster.
After watching this video, I wondered how many car owners were told by unscrupulous shops that they needed an entirely new front end, when only several parts were worn? You took the time to diagnose what was wrong, but I'm betting that some shops would see worn upper control arms, make the assumption that everything else was bad, and tell the customer they needed everything replaced.
EricTheCarGuy I am a Jeep guy, and live in the central rust belt. There is one thing I have learned.. Anti-seize! Copper/silver not going to say a brand or type preference. But one thing i know. When dealing with rust and a vehicle you plan on maintaining. If you have a fight removing it. Add a light coating of some form of Anti-seize. To aid next time you go to remove it. I also use Dielectric grease for metal to plastic fastens. As they too will rust and lock into there home. Do remember when using any grease on a torque sensitive bolt. Need to adjust torque aka Ft-lb/Nm. In the case of Anti-seize (Most) reference material I have seen list a reduction of applied torque by 50%. Due to the now lubricated threads. But check your application specific material. they almost always have a chart for the different type of grease. The main specs are listed for clean/dry threads. Also, Do not mix Anti-seize and thread-lock... IDK why someone would but i have seen it... If you want to use anti-seize and wish to insure a bolt holds torque. I would suggest some form of lock washer. There are many types out there and even high vibration for industrial applications. All vary in price from dirt cheap to cost more then one would believe, One thing to note when using Anti-seize... After a few days of driving it is always good practice to check/re-torque all bolts you worked on. Now that I have been using this stuff. I never have to fight when removing/repairing my Jeeps. And the time alone it has saved me is well worth a bottle of Anti-seize. As a side note.. In a pinch. axle grease will also help but does not seem to last as long and is more easily washed out. As a resent case. I had to replay two Tie rod ends on my Jeep Wrangler. They had been in place for a little over 5 years. After removing the cotter pin and the nut, Just had to use a wrench to release the lock washer and the Joint retreaded from the tie rod bar by hand. Super simple, No rust on the treads. looked like brand new.. Hope that helps...
Just an FYI for those reading, and this is really only for the guys that LOWER the car, a company called SPC makes a "sliding" ball joint that bolts in replacing the stock upper ball joint in the control arm (that requires cutting an access hole above) that gives you a camber adjustment upwards of +3* over stock, I had 18's with 215/35 tires and could just tuck the tire and still have PERFECT camber on my accord, the fun trick was getting it on and off the alignment rack.
one great tip someone gave me to remove stuck balljoint is to stick a sledgehammer behind the point your hitting, touching the knuckle. On extreme case it workout well for me
Any idea on how to get off a upper control arm bolt off the knuckle when its seized? I took off the crown nut and tried hitting with a hammer but nothing 😢
I wish the suspension set-up was identical to 2004 TL, but it looks different. I did a complete rebuild on the TL's suspension and it was not bad at all. The most difficult part was replacement of the lower ball joint. Honda's service manual doesn't have a section for this job, but it is a separate part and can be replaced. A hydraulic press is required however to get that thing out. Whenever possible, I replace hardware with stainless steel (True Value is the best source for nuts & bolts, screws, washers, etc...). Sometime soon I would have to do the clutch (running on the original and the odo reading is about 180,000 miles), meaning I would have to do the job again (suspension & the subframe have to come off to separate the 6MT from the motor). I hope the driveshafts come off from the 6MT without a hassle, but I have a bad feeling about the intermediate shaft; I hate circlips/snap rings.....
EricTheCarGuy Your advice would be a godsend right now. I have a 1998 Toyota Corolla that has many strange noises. It clunks and such when driving. A popping/clunking noise comes from the rear when driving over bumps etc and a loud clunk comes from the drivers front wheel when steering. Apart from the noises the car doesn't feel or perform any different!
I have a warranted reason for keeping the struts clean. You need to see if there's failure in the casing. You can't see that with rusted parts. I've seen cases where there was no leak and it would later crack open. And mind you, i have way smaller a pool of cars in my list than you. I do this for my close friends and relatives because i like it. So i think it's a good reason to either replace them on say, a second hand car (on purchase) or at least clean them and paint them in a tough paint, of which there are many cheap variants. Just my two cents.
aserta Finding a failed strut is pretty easy in my opinion. When the oil leaks out, it's bad. Rusted or not, you'll see that as well as feel a difference in ride quality. Thanks for your input.
Did you loosen the pass side upper control arm nut to get the cotter pin through? I've been taught to never do that. If you need to align the cotter pin hole on a ball joint, only tighten, never loosen because of the taper.
A very handy video, but sadly it somewhat doesnt apply to my MY2000 Accord as the design of the upper control arm is different, but none the less it will be handy when the time comes to replace them.
There is now a squeal where there as non before coming from the front passenger side of my accord after replacing the CV axle. Maybe I missed it in the video, but does anything need to be greased/lubed between the CV axle and the hub in the knuckle?
A good soaking with rust cutter for about 3 days everyday before you begin helps when all you have is hand tools. Yup, I have bent a 3/4 inch drive breaker bar. I should have invested in air tools years ago.
Just replaced my rear lca on my integra. Heated around the bolts hit it with my impact and came out like butter. But the passenger side I was only able to remove 1 bolt. I had to cut the rest. Damn rust.
Good vid as usual EricTheCarGuy... Having done most of this on a different car recently and then watching this makes me realise how much I really buy a impact driver, not sure why I have struggled on without for so long.. Any advice on what one(s) to go for or avoid. I can see you use a 3/8 DeWalt but not managed to see a model number or the like during the vids. Well done on brilliant channel, love watching your repair vids even if i know most of the stuff already - little tips picked up here and there saves much swearing at times :)
nhz013 everywhere seems to call them drivers in the UK but fair does.. I'll look the Milwaukee up, money is always an issue but when it comes to power tools i tend to find paying a premium for a good one is worth the extra outlay of cash.
hey Erick i have a question i have a Honda prelude 1994 i was driving it i stopped at a light put it into neutral and then it wouldnt go into gear i try to put it into gear but it only makes a noise.....
I reworked my suspension on a 2004 chevy venture because when I would turn and or stop there would be snapping and squeaking I replaced springs, struts,bearings and lower control arm but I still have the same noises. I noted that the knuckle being aluminum was corroded all around except where the strut bolt went threw. Would that cause that noise?
Eric, when you were talking about the wishbones and how that one bottom bolt sometimes freezes and to not spent the extra time to fuss with the bolt just to get the axle out, why didn't you take the time to wire brush the wishbones and put some sort of coating on them so that in case you ever had to go back to them and like replace the bottom control arms or something, you wouldn't have to fuss with the bolt again? Yes, I seen that it didn't take you much effort to remove the bolt,s but as how you stated sometimes over time the bolts get to a point where you might have to face with them freezing on there, so to be on the safe side, why not clean up the wishbones and coat them to avoid all that?
Torque sticks are banned in most garages here in Canada they ware out I have found they are not accurate my self. Go to tighten the part I am fastening and go to put a breaker bar on it and feels loose.
+EricTheCarGuy I have a 94 accord ex I'm getting a suspension clunk while braking that I can't locate. I replaced all struts, front uca's, sway bar end links, lower ball joints, rotors and pads. all that and it's still happening, any suggestions?
Similar coil over design with a clevis as the Jeep Liberty uses. You need a new tool. You can get a pin punch set that fit's an impact hammer. Or you can take a standard shank and drill it to fit a hardened punch tip. Makes removing rusted pins easier, (also works to drive out bolts).
115 VIEW CLUB!! (i'm not that annoying youtube commenter i promise) great video as usual eric!! is it me or at 35:00, is that a crack in the inside bore of that wishbone?
I watched this vid just to see if I can take the upper control arm out without getting the spring or anything jumping in my face. Seems like there should be no problem. I got one of the joints replaced and now its squeaking like hell. No idea what to do about it but maybe I get some ideas if I take it apart.
Didn't see it in the video, but I assume it is okay to hammer a bit on the outer end of the CV shaft to seat the inner spline on the retention ring? It won't damage the spider or rollers within the CV joints, will it?
People can yah stop asking Eric stupid I know it's annoying him, just watch the video and ask a real question and stop telling Eric what you think he's doing wrong your not the mechanics he is and that's why yah are watching his videos.
Eric, would it have made a difference to maybe use the wire wheel to clean to rust off the wishbones and maybe coated them with some type of rust prohibiting paint
Hello Eric!!!! Question for u: in the older Hondas/Acuras also mid 2000s Acuras how do u deal with spun nut on the rear upper control arm, nut is in the frame and it spin out because looks like it was welded poorly from factory Thank You !
Nice Video. I always enjoy watching your videos and learning new things. was there no rubber insulator where the springs seat in the bottom of the strut?
monsieur thecarguy de eric, the dude in engineeringexplained stated that the back pads/shims(not metal) on the brake pads kind of insulates heat from being to transfered from braking through the piston to brake fluid extending fluid life. what do you think? i dont like your grey peumatic socket sets, intrigues me to go to ebay and order one. also the gearwrench long wrenches. when i replaced the front struts on my 99 civic, i was scared to unbolt the ball joint, the wishbone and ended up needing help. before this video aired i replaced only one rear struts all by myself. i fought for over an hour and half to take the strut off without unbolting the lower control arm. once i did it everything went very smooth. still have to do the other one and i am not scared. i worked in the dark with 2 worklights. on the wishbone you should have put some silicone or grease where the struts sit. where did you order your oem components from?eb...com?does it matter what kind of environment the parts were stored. i went with ga...riel because i got a lifetime warranty and bought with an employee discount. once i can afford kyb, i plan on swapping them out. extra thnx can you kindly mention the time, roughly, the jobs take on the description or on the website? cameraman brian doesnt know much about repairs; and i dont think he is learning. if i lived around you i would apply for an internship. take care.
axenz axtiz all struts are gas struts. actual liquid (i.e. oil) does not compress, it can only move which is why brakes work. the oil found in the strut itself is more lubricant than anything.
I noticed that you didn’t torque the axle nuts very tight.. I find most of the cars I’ve worked on where I have to remove them they call for 150-170lbs torque. What’s your opinion?
Eric, great video as usual. Can you help us understand how to adjust and position the top bolts to help get the camber in its proper adjustment? What did you do to the side bolts of the new control arms to ensure a good alignment after installation? Thanks!
hey Eric the car guy my name is Kevin and I have A 2005 Hyundai Elantra I have a popping noise if I accelerate up a hill or backing up a hill I have a popping noise coming from the driver side I replaced sway bar links lower control arm struts all the way around I also replaced the CV axle on the driver side the driver side popping noise is coming from the driver side do you have any advice on finding this popping noise
This is a good example of why Eric is king! Sure, there are other people doing other videos, but they all fall into one of two categories. Either they're an amature trying to sell you on some God awful whacked out, shortcut that does more harm than good, or they're a mechanic's shop using a cleaned up, newer, car, and editing out any problems with seized bolts, sheared bolt heads, etc ... Eric throws an older, rusted up, car up on the lift and shows you how a professional deals with the good, the bad, and the ugly, of it all.
It's always satisfying to watch Eric work on cars, especially when everything goes so smoothly, it's like cutting through butter with a hot knife, just. So. Satisfying.
I admit I am a bit late with this comment, Eric, (only 8 years late!), but its great to see someone who has the knowledge and the tools, especially that suspension spring press, doing a great job. I have a carbureted 1989 Honda Accord Ex and, looking through the shop repair manual this morning, I see that it basically has the same components, except my car not having an anti-lock brake system. Not that I'm going to do that sort of work anytime soon, but I enjoyed your video. Thank-you Eric.
Honestly if this was at a shop this would be about $1000 dollar job without even the parts included so this dude knows what he doing
Car repair is so expensive I’m been in automotive job for about a month yesterday we took out cv axle
Eric did this and made this look easy I mean suspension work is easy but those frozen bolts and nuts are the hard part
Stay good Eric man! Gr8 vid
Is it bad that I go back and re-watch my favorite videos on your channel while waiting for more to come out?
i do the same thing
No, it's a great thing.
Eric, it's my opinion that the early 90's Honda/Acura cars were the best looking and driving. Please update us on how shes handling after the new parts. Great videos, keep them coming!
Miss my dad's old '93 Vigor LS. Those cars went forever with general maintenance and make for great winner cars. Great video +ericthecarguy with useful tips and tricks.
Eric I've said this before I'm an automotive student at my high school I'm proud of myself as I got top student but that's besides the fact. Yourvideos help me impress my teachers as I've learned most of my knowledge from you I want to be a master mechanic when I get older at hopefully a Honda dealer as that's where my dad was a master mechanic so I just want to thank you for your videos I really hope you see this comment
justindasilva73 Thank you very much for that comment. Good luck in school and with your career.
Gonna be changing some brakes this weekend, dreading the rust! Thanks for all your awesome work Eric! Always love the videos.
Nice to see you keep an eye on your old Vigor.
My second car is a Rover 620 wich is basically a Honda Accord, so I'm grateful for all of your Vigor uploads. THANK YOU Eric and Brian!
I really love the pace and video production here Eric. I can see a huge improvement in your video guy. It looks very professionally done.
I do not envy the amount of rust some folks put up with. Here in Australia I'm so lucky, a couple of my cars are over 30 yrs old and I don't have half as much crusty rust underneath the car. Lot of respect for flat rate techs in the rust belt...
You performed that job with such vigor. Pun intended. Thanks Eric very informative.
That is a bigger job than I thought, well done Eric.
Great videos Eric! Fun to watch and learn at the same time. If you were around my place , you would be my garage man! That's for sure.
is really nice to see you back on hondas and very good quality of videos thanks to the camera men im a fan of you from guadalajara jalisco mx. master Eric
It looks like Eric also started adapted to electrical wrench. Dragging hoses day finally comes to the end. I love my Milwaukee m18 fuel.
Eric may fumble around a bit on other cars but he sure knows his way around his Acura's.
It's a great chance to replace the brake hoses. I recently replaced them on a 98 Volvo V90 and it made a big difference. The original brake feel returned; much nicer to drive.
As always, great video Eric. I really enjoy your work. Douglas
Man I'm so glad I found these videos, I have a 2003 civic that I'd love to keep but stuff is going wrong with it. I've changed my struts and shock assemblies, break rotors and pads, lower tie rod ends. I wouldn't have even tried to do that stuff before, I'm going to be swapping an engine next month and I'm sure it will go smoothly as it can. Thanks
I do miss these 1 hour vids..
Dude you made that look so easy but I know that's good ole experience showing out great vid! The press da bomb !
you are the best in this profession Erick, thank you very much.
Great video! I miss your repair videos. Good stuff
Hey Eric, I just bought a ten piece 10mm to 19mm set of 3/8 drive long metric impact swivel wobble sockets by Cal Hawk for 60 bucks free shipping. They are made in Taiwan (which is usually better than china) and crmo. They seem nice and come with a case and you can't beat the price. I am convinced that all of these companies are selling the same sockets made in the same factory but having the factory put their name on it. The Cal Hawk set looks identical to the grey pneumatic set to me and even the case looks the same. They also sell a nice 12 piece 1/4 drive impact set which I also bought.
Really digging the high visual quality
Damn you Eric, all those shinny new parts- by the end of the video I felt like I needed to sit my ass in the seat and go for a test drive to feel the new suspension and you denied me that. My day is ruined, I will always wonder how the ride felt with the new parts compared to the old parts.
Hey Eric outstanding video. Way over my head but at least I will remember a lot of the procedure. I remain a subscriber.
just did these exact things on my CRX :) I'm a big boy, now!
The thing you said about the lower bolts frozen in the bushings is very true! I had the subframe of my 2001 accord on the floor and tried to remove the lower controlarm, which is mounted with pretty much the same kind of bolt, from the frame. There is no way getting this thing out of there!!! I ended up cutting the controlarm in little pieces so can cut the bolt in little pieces without damaging the subframe^^ it was fun...
Thanks Eric!! I daily drive a 93 accord (the 2liter version with the carburator) and also feel and hear some worn out parts from the front end. I am gonna put your video up to good use once again!
just an FYI, Honda sells those upper strut mount bushings for about 2.50 a piece. That could be the reason why your suspension makes creaking noises over smaller bumps or when its really cold outside.
Its a problem in places like Arizona where the rubber crumbles, dry rots or cracks which is a pretty big safety concern.
Having lived in the south my entire life (Atlanta, GA, to be specific), I'm always amazed by the rust... I just don't ever have to deal with that much rust. I can take apart a 20-year-old car that has spent its entire life here, and, sure, there's a *little* bit of rust, and sometimes things get a *little* sticky, but I've never *ever* had a cotter pin break off because of it being too rusty to remove. That would drive me nuts!
LMacNeill Rust is a fact of life for those of us in the rust belt states. Used to be dealing with only salt, now they are using chloride liquid as well, that stuff causes rust a LOT faster.
After watching this video, I wondered how many car owners were told by unscrupulous shops that they needed an entirely new front end, when only several parts were worn? You took the time to diagnose what was wrong, but I'm betting that some shops would see worn upper control arms, make the assumption that everything else was bad, and tell the customer they needed everything replaced.
EricTheCarGuy I am a Jeep guy, and live in the central rust belt. There is one thing I have learned.. Anti-seize! Copper/silver not going to say a brand or type preference. But one thing i know. When dealing with rust and a vehicle you plan on maintaining. If you have a fight removing it. Add a light coating of some form of Anti-seize. To aid next time you go to remove it. I also use Dielectric grease for metal to plastic fastens. As they too will rust and lock into there home.
Do remember when using any grease on a torque sensitive bolt. Need to adjust torque aka Ft-lb/Nm. In the case of Anti-seize (Most) reference material I have seen list a reduction of applied torque by 50%. Due to the now lubricated threads. But check your application specific material. they almost always have a chart for the different type of grease. The main specs are listed for clean/dry threads.
Also, Do not mix Anti-seize and thread-lock... IDK why someone would but i have seen it... If you want to use anti-seize and wish to insure a bolt holds torque. I would suggest some form of lock washer. There are many types out there and even high vibration for industrial applications. All vary in price from dirt cheap to cost more then one would believe,
One thing to note when using Anti-seize... After a few days of driving it is always good practice to check/re-torque all bolts you worked on.
Now that I have been using this stuff. I never have to fight when removing/repairing my Jeeps. And the time alone it has saved me is well worth a bottle of Anti-seize.
As a side note.. In a pinch. axle grease will also help but does not seem to last as long and is more easily washed out.
As a resent case. I had to replay two Tie rod ends on my Jeep Wrangler. They had been in place for a little over 5 years. After removing the cotter pin and the nut, Just had to use a wrench to release the lock washer and the Joint retreaded from the tie rod bar by hand. Super simple, No rust on the treads. looked like brand new..
Hope that helps...
i just did this exact job on 99 accord and this video was extremely helpful. thank you
Just an FYI for those reading, and this is really only for the guys that LOWER the car, a company called SPC makes a "sliding" ball joint that bolts in replacing the stock upper ball joint in the control arm (that requires cutting an access hole above) that gives you a camber adjustment upwards of +3* over stock, I had 18's with 215/35 tires and could just tuck the tire and still have PERFECT camber on my accord, the fun trick was getting it on and off the alignment rack.
one great tip someone gave me to remove stuck balljoint is to stick a sledgehammer behind the point your hitting, touching the knuckle. On extreme case it workout well for me
Been doing army service for about 4 years now, but man i miss being a mechanic :)
Eric the car guy does battle with the cotter pin
Never seize Eric on every thing
in New York for sure
YAY! Great Episode Eric!!
Goo Job Eric. How about some anti seize?
I'm guessing Gabriel shocks?....
You are so Awesome!! Thank you for take the time to video and share your knowledge
Any idea on how to get off a upper control arm bolt off the knuckle when its seized? I took off the crown nut and tried hitting with a hammer but nothing 😢
Love all your videos mr. Erick. Thanks
I wish the suspension set-up was identical to 2004 TL, but it looks different. I did a complete rebuild on the TL's suspension and it was not bad at all. The most difficult part was replacement of the lower ball joint. Honda's service manual doesn't have a section for this job, but it is a separate part and can be replaced. A hydraulic press is required however to get that thing out. Whenever possible, I replace hardware with stainless steel (True Value is the best source for nuts & bolts, screws, washers, etc...).
Sometime soon I would have to do the clutch (running on the original and the odo reading is about 180,000 miles), meaning I would have to do the job again (suspension & the subframe have to come off to separate the 6MT from the motor). I hope the driveshafts come off from the 6MT without a hassle, but I have a bad feeling about the intermediate shaft; I hate circlips/snap rings.....
A test drive would've been nice!
+TJC450 my thoughts exactly!
Same here, was looking forward to Eric reaction of the change in feel
EricTheCarGuy Your advice would be a godsend right now. I have a 1998 Toyota Corolla that has many strange noises. It clunks and such when driving. A popping/clunking noise comes from the rear when driving over bumps etc and a loud clunk comes from the drivers front wheel when steering. Apart from the noises the car doesn't feel or perform any different!
As far as installing the axles go, you just push them into the transmission/diff? Seems it would be more to it than that. Thanks for all you do!
I'm a huge fan of Sankei 555 control arms when oem are not available.
What if your car doesn't have a spider condo ? Should I buy one or make one ?
I have a warranted reason for keeping the struts clean. You need to see if there's failure in the casing. You can't see that with rusted parts. I've seen cases where there was no leak and it would later crack open.
And mind you, i have way smaller a pool of cars in my list than you. I do this for my close friends and relatives because i like it. So i think it's a good reason to either replace them on say, a second hand car (on purchase) or at least clean them and paint them in a tough paint, of which there are many cheap variants.
Just my two cents.
aserta Finding a failed strut is pretty easy in my opinion. When the oil leaks out, it's bad. Rusted or not, you'll see that as well as feel a difference in ride quality. Thanks for your input.
Did you loosen the pass side upper control arm nut to get the cotter pin through? I've been taught to never do that. If you need to align the cotter pin hole on a ball joint, only tighten, never loosen because of the taper.
Does the G stand for Gabriel?
A very handy video, but sadly it somewhat doesnt apply to my MY2000 Accord as the design of the upper control arm is different, but none the less it will be handy when the time comes to replace them.
I'm assuming OEM Replacement Axles were used in this video.
There is now a squeal where there as non before coming from the front passenger side of my accord after replacing the CV axle. Maybe I missed it in the video, but does anything need to be greased/lubed between the CV axle and the hub in the knuckle?
A good soaking with rust cutter for about 3 days everyday before you begin helps when all you have is hand tools. Yup, I have bent a 3/4 inch drive breaker bar. I should have invested in air tools years ago.
Just replaced my rear lca on my integra. Heated around the bolts hit it with my impact and came out like butter. But the passenger side I was only able to remove 1 bolt. I had to cut the rest. Damn rust.
Good vid as usual EricTheCarGuy...
Having done most of this on a different car recently and then watching this makes me realise how much I really buy a impact driver, not sure why I have struggled on without for so long.. Any advice on what one(s) to go for or avoid. I can see you use a 3/8 DeWalt but not managed to see a model number or the like during the vids.
Well done on brilliant channel, love watching your repair vids even if i know most of the stuff already - little tips picked up here and there saves much swearing at times :)
what you mean is an impact wrench not a driver. if you have the money go for milwaukee 3/8 fuel. erics one is older tech
nhz013 everywhere seems to call them drivers in the UK but fair does.. I'll look the Milwaukee up, money is always an issue but when it comes to power tools i tend to find paying a premium for a good one is worth the extra outlay of cash.
hey Erick i have a question i have a Honda prelude 1994 i was driving it i stopped at a light put it into neutral and then it wouldnt go into gear i try to put it into gear but it only makes a noise.....
very helpful video.exactly what I want to do to my Acura cl.thanks Eric.
I reworked my suspension on a 2004 chevy venture because when I would turn and or stop there would be snapping and squeaking I replaced springs, struts,bearings and lower control arm but I still have the same noises. I noted that the knuckle being aluminum was corroded all around except where the strut bolt went threw. Would that cause that noise?
Eric, when you were talking about the wishbones and how that one bottom bolt sometimes freezes and to not spent the extra time to fuss with the bolt just to get the axle out, why didn't you take the time to wire brush the wishbones and put some sort of coating on them so that in case you ever had to go back to them and like replace the bottom control arms or something, you wouldn't have to fuss with the bolt again?
Yes, I seen that it didn't take you much effort to remove the bolt,s but as how you stated sometimes over time the bolts get to a point where you might have to face with them freezing on there, so to be on the safe side, why not clean up the wishbones and coat them to avoid all that?
you have done very nice & clean job. keep going. if you can learn people how to check transmission fluid level.
Torque sticks are banned in most garages here in Canada they ware out I have found they are not accurate my self. Go to tighten the part I am fastening and go to put a breaker bar on it and feels loose.
what if my axle has good cv boots but I hear clunk/knock noises when I turn or go over bumps and brake/accelerate?
eric i have matrix 05 program key do u know how
Straight to the alignment shop I go
+EricTheCarGuy I have a 94 accord ex I'm getting a suspension clunk while braking that I can't locate. I replaced all struts, front uca's, sway bar end links, lower ball joints, rotors and pads. all that and it's still happening, any suggestions?
Similar coil over design with a clevis as the Jeep Liberty uses.
You need a new tool. You can get a pin punch set that fit's an impact hammer. Or you can take a standard shank and drill it to fit a hardened punch tip. Makes removing rusted pins easier, (also works to drive out bolts).
Is the Macpherson strut on the newer Accord a step backwards?
115 VIEW CLUB!! (i'm not that annoying youtube commenter i promise)
great video as usual eric!! is it me or at 35:00, is that a crack in the inside bore of that wishbone?
I watched this vid just to see if I can take the upper control arm out without getting the spring or anything jumping in my face. Seems like there should be no problem. I got one of the joints replaced and now its squeaking like hell. No idea what to do about it but maybe I get some ideas if I take it apart.
Didn't see it in the video, but I assume it is okay to hammer a bit on the outer end of the CV shaft to seat the inner spline on the retention ring? It won't damage the spider or rollers within the CV joints, will it?
ETCG - You use Silicone paste on the brakes pad ends instead of High Temp Grease?
So eric wen you worked in a dealership did they allow you to use impacts
People can yah stop asking Eric stupid I know it's annoying him, just watch the video and ask a real question and stop telling Eric what you think he's doing wrong your not the mechanics he is and that's why yah are watching his videos.
Great vid! also good work on the camera!
Thank You very much thanks to
You learned how to change the Rack Pinion of my Honda.
Eric, would it have made a difference to maybe use the wire wheel to clean to rust off the wishbones and maybe coated them with some type of rust prohibiting paint
David Castana Not to me it wouldn't.
+EricTheCarGuy ok thank you
Hello Eric!!!! Question for u: in the older Hondas/Acuras also mid 2000s Acuras how do u deal with spun nut on the rear upper control arm, nut is in the frame and it spin out because looks like it was welded poorly from factory Thank You !
Eric, please do some 3rd gen prelude stuff...you being a honda guy of similar vintage...thanks.
Nice Video. I always enjoy watching your videos and learning new things. was there no rubber insulator where the springs seat in the bottom of the strut?
why not use copper paste for anti seize?
hey eric I have seen some videos about 50/50 acetone and ATF. could you do a video of it so see if it works?
nice job Mr Eric, than you very much for sharing!
monsieur thecarguy de eric, the dude in engineeringexplained stated that the back pads/shims(not metal) on the brake pads kind of insulates heat from being to transfered from braking through the piston to brake fluid extending fluid life. what do you think?
i dont like your grey peumatic socket sets, intrigues me to go to ebay and order one. also the gearwrench long wrenches.
when i replaced the front struts on my 99 civic, i was scared to unbolt the ball joint, the wishbone and ended up needing help. before this video aired i replaced only one rear struts all by myself. i fought for over an hour and half to take the strut off without unbolting the lower control arm. once i did it everything went very smooth. still have to do the other one and i am not scared. i worked in the dark with 2 worklights.
on the wishbone you should have put some silicone or grease where the struts sit.
where did you order your oem components from?eb...com?does it matter what kind of environment the parts were stored. i went with ga...riel because i got a lifetime warranty and bought with an employee discount. once i can afford kyb, i plan on swapping them out.
extra thnx
can you kindly mention the time, roughly, the jobs take on the description or on the website?
cameraman brian doesnt know much about repairs; and i dont think he is learning. if i lived around you i would apply for an internship.
take care.
Excellent video. Many thanks!
Just changed the upper wishbones on my 2002 vw passat the pinch bolt on them was a pig to get out.
Hi Eric, Gas struts compress and it will return back, but Oil struts compress will not return back. correct me if I'm wrong :)
Thanks for the video
axenz axtiz all struts are gas struts. actual liquid (i.e. oil) does not compress, it can only move which is why brakes work. the oil found in the strut itself is more lubricant than anything.
36:19 "Keep Your Upper Nuts Handy" :3 LOL
I noticed that you didn’t torque the axle nuts very tight.. I find most of the cars I’ve worked on where I have to remove them they call for 150-170lbs torque. What’s your opinion?
Eric, great video as usual. Can you help us understand how to adjust and position the top bolts to help get the camber in its proper adjustment? What did you do to the side bolts of the new control arms to ensure a good alignment after installation? Thanks!
will this apply to the line of Acura to i have a 2001 3.5 RL
Gotta upgrade to that Milwaukee York gun. Does great even with extensions
hey Eric the car guy my name is Kevin and I have A 2005 Hyundai Elantra I have a popping noise if I accelerate up a hill or backing up a hill I have a popping noise coming from the driver side I replaced sway bar links lower control arm struts all the way around I also replaced the CV axle on the driver side the driver side popping noise is coming from the driver side do you have any advice on finding this popping noise