A super rust eater is Harpic power plus and it is cheap. I’ve restored dozens of motorcycles and this stuff came into the shops years ago. Very very effective overnight and less than 2 quid a bottle. It has to be the power plus though and not the ordinary bleach. Also brings stainless exhaust parts back to silver as well, you are welcome. Great videos by the way.
Ceramic hob cleaner is also excellent for cleaning rusted metal components(no hydrochloric acid).Acetone can harm certain grades of rubber and elastomers,it's fine for cleaning but ensure that the acetone has been removed from the seal completely as prolonged exposure can cause degradation of the seal.
Don't worry, hopefully I'll be feeling much better in a few days and can really crack on with stripping the bike down. I need to take the exhaust off and drop the sump to clean the old oil out properly, remove the old spark plugs, then I need to get the cooling system cleaned up and working... lots to do, yes
On ZRX11s we remove that orange rubber doodad to prevent the breather sounding like an episode of The Clangers on hot days. Almost screamed at my monitor until you put the plug in the sink :)
Another great detailed and thoughtful video from Ash. Thanks. Really interesting and going the extra mile as you did with the fuse box. This fuel cap looks identical to the ones on my 90s Triumphs. I quite like the clanger music they make as the bike settles down after a ride. I'd say your cap could probably have done with the primer being rubbed down and recoated a couple of times to sort out all the pitting. The component with the latching mechanism is likely to rust again quickly now you have removed all its plating. Paint would have a terrible time in there, constantly being washed with petrol, so i understand why you didn't get to paint it. How about having s go with a home zinc plating kit?
You're right, I should have done more with the sanding and layers of primer, maybe I'll do it again in the future... You know what, a home zinc plating kit could be quite fun
Loving the video's, always been a big fan of the Gpz900r. Just to add, Nitromors is now absolutely garbage...you'd be better of using ice cream. It used to be good, but then the EU focused their attention on to it and made it useless. If you want to remove paint from any surface or item use a product called Starchem it's what Nitromors used to be. Keep up the good work, enjoying the series.
Great video Ash. Well presented and explained, coupled with useful input from viewers. Really enjoying watching and learning from this project. Thanks for your effort.
Good job on the spare keys ….. next up - T Handle Allen wrench set …. Just think of all the tools you will when you are done 😊…. Never hesitate spending $$ on tools, tools generally are forever :)
I completely agree... If you've watched my Jaguar Sportbrake rebuild series you'll know that the majority of my best and favourite hand tools were stolen from my car towards the end of last year. I'm slowly replacing them as I need them... I do in-fact have a set of T Allens 😃
Great vid, thank you! But, Ooooo - You're not sounding great chum & you can see you're in some discomfort. I'm on my 2nd set of antibiotics and have had a dreadful cough for 6 weeks - due for my 2nd x-ray in 10 days or so. So take it easy. I know to my cost, unfortunately, that if you can't slow down, it can make recovery so much longer. I'm really pleased with these videos - I'm losing my garage and was really worried about it but it's great to see how much and how well you do in a kitchen or on the front path! Love that there are over 3k views of this already and now 3k subscribers too! Fab!
Very common mod amongst owners is to leave the inside locking bolt out(the one that was missing) The keys can be weak and the cap can seize so being able to remove the cap without the key is handy. Yes someone could steal your fuel but a lot work for a wee bit of fuel
Great vid ! Im amazed at the engineering complexity of a fuel cap, well impressed. The fuel cap on my first moped was just a plastic bung with a tiny hole as a breather 😂
Great videos Ash , the little thing at 3.31 solved a 3 year old puzzle for me :) Found one of them on the worktop when tidying and didn't have a clue where it came from , but I did dismantle a 1983 Kawa 550 fuel tank cap there and the other internals look exactly the same ! Mystery solved :) Cradleys Kawasaki or CMSL have great kawa exploded view parts diagrams for checking how things should go together and it is surprising how many parts are still available , sometimes at reasonable prices , good luck
The petrol cap and ring are black chrome (like the OEM exhaust was) and is a real pita to maintain. Obviously paint is no good when in such close proximity to petrol, so I would recommend cerakote - the latest all singing all dancing coating option. Loving the videos ....
The vent is to allow air in to replace the volume of the fuel as it is used . Without it you land up with a vacuum in the tank and fuel can't flow out. Impact drivers are great. Vessel (who make good JIS screwdrivers) do their Impacta range that are conventional screw drivers with an impact function built in. Useful when the screw is buried where you can't get a full on impact driver.
Great video as always! 👍 I have an offtopic question regarding your Jag XF wing mirror upgrade: I‘m currently looking for powerfold mirrors with puddle lamp on eBay & co, found 2 with obvious puddle and blindspot assistant included, but powerfold is not mentioned… Are these two functions usually combined? And what is it with those round colored stickers next to the cable outlet for one has a green sticker (not sure how many PIN) and the other has a red, a green and a blue sticker on it (16 PIN described)? Is it btw problematic to fit a e.g. left mirror from a right-steerer to a left-steerer? Thanks mate and cheers! (I have an X250 facelift 2012)
If the mirrors have anything more than simple electric adjustment, i.e. blind spot, auto-dimming, puddle lamp, then yes they will also have powerfold. I have no idea about the stickers i'm affraid. I wouldn't have thought that LHD and RHD cars would have different mirror glass positions... you can do a test, sit in the passenger seat and see if you can adjust the passenger door mirror to see if it would be ok if the steering wheel was on that side
Nice, thank you really so much for your quick response and expertise! Perfect, that’s what I suspected about the powerfold, but I couldn’t find any reliable proof any faster. I reckon the stickers may have something to do with industrial montage..? Anyways unimportant then. :) Well yeah, you are absolutely right, mirror positions in LHD/RHD are identical and the cable fitting is no different hehe. Appreciate your engagement, thanks! Love to you from Germany!!
Hi Ash great rebuild , sorry i noticed on replay on your video if u look at 2:28 u put the metal ring on the wrong way as the lip is meant to hold the 4 springs in place, also at 3:43 the two springs r fitted in the bent position not straight . Good job for video replay, i photo everything so i can relook on assambly , cap looks fab looking forward to next video
Oh my gosh! well spotted mate, I'd of hated to lose one or all of those in the tank! 🤣... the small springs were bent when I took it apart, correct, but that was with the key cover flap closed, they straighten when the flap is open, which was much easier to do when assembling as when bent they liked to ping out again 🤣
Trouble with the paint on the cap is that as soon as you drop petrol on it the paint will come off unless, you used petrol resistant paint or you coat the paint you used with petrol resistant lacquer.
I thought the lacquer I used was petrol resistant but I've just checked and I don't think it is, so I'll be going over the top again with the correct stuff! Thanks
While watching this "rebuild" I was thinking that workshops and service stations rarely do stuff like this anymore (in a broader sense). It's all about taking off one "whole" part and changing it with a new one. This is, of course, very efficient, but in many cases also very unnecessary. To push our limits on this earth we need to reuse more of the things that we have.
the number is a key number, in the sense thats there's a decoder which a locksmith shall use which tells him how to cut the key, and that number is the input to that program
Brass is a solid metal. it doesnt contain any oil or any other lubricant at all!. It does have some self lubricating properties but that is due to the copper content and not down to any oils or other liquids at all. If it is a self lubricating material it is more likely to be a sintered phosphor bronze which is porous and can be impregnated with oil and will resemble brass in its appearence (although darker)
Have yet to encounter anything that ATF/Acetone can’t crack loose - position it so it can soak in ….. i use a spray bottle - sometimes though you add a pinch of patience ;)
The finish on the petrol cap is actually "Black Chrome", and replacements from Kawasaki are no longer finished in this coating and are just painted satin black which is a shame. Make sure that you check that small "Orange" seal as if it falls apart you will end up with a venting problem, ask me how I know this, 🤣.
@@AshRowland look at your video about 3 minutes in, the small round orange seal next to the lock barrel, if that is damaged in any way then you will experience venting problems. It snapped on my GPZ causing the bike to cut out, as though it had run out of fuel, had to keep opening up the cap for it to start again. It was an absolute nightmare to diagnose, I changed the fuel tap internals, rebuilt the carbs and still couldn't find out what it was, took the cap to bits, three times, before I noticed the seal was damaged, removed the seal and never had any further bother with the bike, phew, what a relief.
A super rust eater is Harpic power plus and it is cheap. I’ve restored dozens of motorcycles and this stuff came into the shops years ago.
Very very effective overnight and less than 2 quid a bottle. It has to be the power plus though and not the ordinary bleach.
Also brings stainless exhaust parts back to silver as well, you are welcome.
Great videos by the way.
Thanks buddy, I'll pick up a bottle and add it to my rust-removal-kit 😃
@@AshRowland Just remember that the main ingredient in Harpic is Hydrochloric acid...
@@ZRXRICK Thats probably why it removes rust very well 🤣
Ceramic hob cleaner is also excellent for cleaning rusted metal components(no hydrochloric acid).Acetone can harm certain grades of rubber and elastomers,it's fine for cleaning but ensure that the acetone has been removed from the seal completely as prolonged exposure can cause degradation of the seal.
TBH I'm amazed at the level of design and engineering that went into a filler cap. Great work!
Something tells me this will be a looooooong restoration!
Don't worry, hopefully I'll be feeling much better in a few days and can really crack on with stripping the bike down. I need to take the exhaust off and drop the sump to clean the old oil out properly, remove the old spark plugs, then I need to get the cooling system cleaned up and working... lots to do, yes
On ZRX11s we remove that orange rubber doodad to prevent the breather sounding like an episode of The Clangers on hot days. Almost screamed at my monitor until you put the plug in the sink :)
I'll know what to look for when I hear that sound now 🤣
Another great detailed and thoughtful video from Ash. Thanks. Really interesting and going the extra mile as you did with the fuse box. This fuel cap looks identical to the ones on my 90s Triumphs. I quite like the clanger music they make as the bike settles down after a ride. I'd say your cap could probably have done with the primer being rubbed down and recoated a couple of times to sort out all the pitting. The component with the latching mechanism is likely to rust again quickly now you have removed all its plating. Paint would have a terrible time in there, constantly being washed with petrol, so i understand why you didn't get to paint it. How about having s go with a home zinc plating kit?
You're right, I should have done more with the sanding and layers of primer, maybe I'll do it again in the future... You know what, a home zinc plating kit could be quite fun
For removing rust use bilt hammer deox c. It's great. It looks like rrc restoration also uses it. If you use boiling water it dissolves quicker.👍
Loving the video's, always been a big fan of the Gpz900r. Just to add, Nitromors is now absolutely garbage...you'd be better of using ice cream. It used to be good, but then the EU focused their attention on to it and made it useless. If you want to remove paint from any surface or item use a product called Starchem it's what Nitromors used to be. Keep up the good work, enjoying the series.
Ah, thanks for that, I might be resorting to something like that soon
Good to see a Kitchen used as it should be! Bikes!!!! Great job on the Fuel Cap!! Gonna follow your recipe :)
Sean Jones is the man to talk to for spares and bits runs the eBay store on FB 😀
Does he have a tank for sale? 🤣
Great video Ash. Well presented and explained, coupled with useful input from viewers. Really enjoying watching and learning from this project. Thanks for your effort.
Thank you Alan, the comments and feedback I get have indeed been most useful
Good job on the spare keys ….. next up - T Handle Allen wrench set …. Just think of all the tools you will when you are done 😊…. Never hesitate spending $$ on tools, tools generally are forever :)
I completely agree... If you've watched my Jaguar Sportbrake rebuild series you'll know that the majority of my best and favourite hand tools were stolen from my car towards the end of last year. I'm slowly replacing them as I need them... I do in-fact have a set of T Allens 😃
Great vid, thank you! But, Ooooo - You're not sounding great chum & you can see you're in some discomfort. I'm on my 2nd set of antibiotics and have had a dreadful cough for 6 weeks - due for my 2nd x-ray in 10 days or so. So take it easy. I know to my cost, unfortunately, that if you can't slow down, it can make recovery so much longer. I'm really pleased with these videos - I'm losing my garage and was really worried about it but it's great to see how much and how well you do in a kitchen or on the front path! Love that there are over 3k views of this already and now 3k subscribers too! Fab!
Thanks mate, I'm doing what I can with the bike and house and work... do a bit, sit down for a bit, do a bit more etc lol
I never knew how complex the fuel filler cap was....how fiddly!!!..you have more patience than me
You wait until I get onto the carbs!
Very common mod amongst owners is to leave the inside locking bolt out(the one that was missing) The keys can be weak and the cap can seize so being able to remove the cap without the key is handy. Yes someone could steal your fuel but a lot work for a wee bit of fuel
Ah, very good point! I changed the cap on my Thundercat because I could open it with a screwdriver 🤣
Great vid ! Im amazed at the engineering complexity of a fuel cap, well impressed. The fuel cap on my first moped was just a plastic bung with a tiny hole as a breather 😂
🤣
Wow, I would definitely have lost bits / my shiz on that job! Looking good
🤣
Great videos Ash , the little thing at 3.31 solved a 3 year old puzzle for me :) Found one of them on the worktop when tidying and didn't have a clue where it came from , but I did dismantle a 1983 Kawa 550 fuel tank cap there and the other internals look exactly the same ! Mystery solved :) Cradleys Kawasaki or CMSL have great kawa exploded view parts diagrams for checking how things should go together and it is surprising how many parts are still available , sometimes at reasonable prices , good luck
Thank you... Haha brilliant, you can finally sleep knowing what that little thing was for 😃
The petrol cap and ring are black chrome (like the OEM exhaust was) and is a real pita to maintain. Obviously paint is no good when in such close proximity to petrol, so I would recommend cerakote - the latest all singing all dancing coating option. Loving the videos ....
Thanks mate, I'll check it out... I'll probably redo it before I've finished the bike 🤣
The vent is to allow air in to replace the volume of the fuel as it is used . Without it you land up with a vacuum in the tank and fuel can't flow out.
Impact drivers are great. Vessel (who make good JIS screwdrivers) do their Impacta range that are conventional screw drivers with an impact function built in. Useful when the screw is buried where you can't get a full on impact driver.
Makes sense, thanks 😃
Great video as always! 👍
I have an offtopic question regarding your Jag XF wing mirror upgrade:
I‘m currently looking for powerfold mirrors with puddle lamp on eBay & co, found 2 with obvious puddle and blindspot assistant included, but powerfold is not mentioned… Are these two functions usually combined? And what is it with those round colored stickers next to the cable outlet for one has a green sticker (not sure how many PIN) and the other has a red, a green and a blue sticker on it (16 PIN described)?
Is it btw problematic to fit a e.g. left mirror from a right-steerer to a left-steerer?
Thanks mate and cheers!
(I have an X250 facelift 2012)
If the mirrors have anything more than simple electric adjustment, i.e. blind spot, auto-dimming, puddle lamp, then yes they will also have powerfold. I have no idea about the stickers i'm affraid. I wouldn't have thought that LHD and RHD cars would have different mirror glass positions... you can do a test, sit in the passenger seat and see if you can adjust the passenger door mirror to see if it would be ok if the steering wheel was on that side
Nice, thank you really so much for your quick response and expertise!
Perfect, that’s what I suspected about the powerfold, but I couldn’t find any reliable proof any faster.
I reckon the stickers may have something to do with industrial montage..? Anyways unimportant then. :)
Well yeah, you are absolutely right, mirror positions in LHD/RHD are identical and the cable fitting is no different hehe.
Appreciate your engagement, thanks! Love to you from Germany!!
@@akanehotaru447 No problem at all 👍 😃
Luckily you found that little spring! That kinda sh.t happens to me all the time!!
👍
Hi Ash great rebuild , sorry i noticed on replay on your video if u look at 2:28 u put the metal ring on the wrong way as the lip is meant to hold the 4 springs in place, also at 3:43 the two springs r fitted in the bent position not straight . Good job for video replay, i photo everything so i can relook on assambly , cap looks fab looking forward to next video
Oh my gosh! well spotted mate, I'd of hated to lose one or all of those in the tank! 🤣... the small springs were bent when I took it apart, correct, but that was with the key cover flap closed, they straighten when the flap is open, which was much easier to do when assembling as when bent they liked to ping out again 🤣
Trouble with the paint on the cap is that as soon as you drop petrol on it the paint will come off unless, you used petrol resistant paint or you coat the paint you used with petrol resistant lacquer.
I thought the lacquer I used was petrol resistant but I've just checked and I don't think it is, so I'll be going over the top again with the correct stuff! Thanks
@@AshRowland the mounting ring on my ZRX11 is from a GPz900. I stripped the black off & polished it.
@@ZRXRICK I might do that instead
2k rattle can everytime........😊😊😊
Get yourself a little quarter drive socket set with Allen bits ,much easier than Allen keys
So agree.
Like the one in the background at 15:38? 😁
While watching this "rebuild" I was thinking that workshops and service stations rarely do stuff like this anymore (in a broader sense). It's all about taking off one "whole" part and changing it with a new one. This is, of course, very efficient, but in many cases also very unnecessary. To push our limits on this earth we need to reuse more of the things that we have.
I completely agree... Its a bit more long-winded but with a bigger reward and less waste
That was strangely fascinating . . . 😄
Thank you mark, glad you enjoyed it
the number is a key number, in the sense thats there's a decoder which a locksmith shall use which tells him how to cut the key, and that number is the input to that program
😎 thanks mate
Quick mum. Ash Rowland has uploaded a new episode 😊
😃
Well done think it's going well wait till you get to anti dive it's going to be fun watching
Any tips or advice for me? Or would it be better to watch me and laugh? 🤣 🤣
Good stuff - thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it 👍
8507. July 1985 maybe 🤔
ooh, could be!
Brass is a solid metal. it doesnt contain any oil or any other lubricant at all!. It does have some self lubricating properties but that is due to the copper content and not down to any oils or other liquids at all.
If it is a self lubricating material it is more likely to be a sintered phosphor bronze which is porous and can be impregnated with oil and will resemble brass in its appearence (although darker)
Self lubricating and low friction, that what I meant, thanks for the correction 😃
Invest in a quart of atf,mixed with a quart of acetone. Works far better, costs far less.
I keep meaning to try this since I saw The Bearded Mechanic do it, but I keep forgetting to pick up some ATF
Have yet to encounter anything that ATF/Acetone can’t crack loose - position it so it can soak in ….. i use a spray bottle - sometimes though you add a pinch of patience ;)
Yes, but the acetone eats paint.
Really good video
Thanks buddy!
I think you missed off the little roller sleave on the spiggot of the latch mechanism....
I'll check when I take it apart to swap the spring ring round which I put in the wrong way haha
Apologies, I was mistaken Sir....
I feel the need,the need for a gpz900r!😂you're licky that your fuel tank is solid,as they're renowned for rotting out.
Well... before you get too excited about how brilliant my tank may appear to be, wait for the next video 🤣
I use plus gas on threads and nuts to free from rust
I'm still waiting on the punch line😂
Yesssssssssssssssssssssss
The finish on the petrol cap is actually "Black Chrome", and replacements from Kawasaki are no longer finished in this coating and are just painted satin black which is a shame. Make sure that you check that small "Orange" seal as if it falls apart you will end up with a venting problem, ask me how I know this, 🤣.
Forgive me, but what "Orange" seal?
@@AshRowland look at your video about 3 minutes in, the small round orange seal next to the lock barrel, if that is damaged in any way then you will experience venting problems. It snapped on my GPZ causing the bike to cut out, as though it had run out of fuel, had to keep opening up the cap for it to start again. It was an absolute nightmare to diagnose, I changed the fuel tap internals, rebuilt the carbs and still couldn't find out what it was, took the cap to bits, three times, before I noticed the seal was damaged, removed the seal and never had any further bother with the bike, phew, what a relief.
@@shaunhardie6077 OOOOOOhhhhhh! That Orange seal! I didn't take that one out, didn't want to damage it as it looked fine
@@AshRowland its non removeable, but it can perish, if its OK leave well alone, 👍.
@@shaunhardie6077 Glad I left it then
As I said on your 1st video Don't do it. Tie a rope around the bike and use it for a boat anchor ⚓️.you are 🤪 crazy dude.
🤣 Picturing an actual motorcycle being used as an actual boat anchor is actually quite amusing
Yep, WD40 is the best, has hundreds of uses .