Coming from someone who has painted a 100+ model soviet army using speed paints 1.0, i can tell you it is so much easier when you can get your average soldier painted without basing done in under 10 minutes. Towards the end i was getting a basic soldier done in 6-7 minutes with minimal mistakes. Can't wait to get the hands on 2.0, by the looks of how you use them in the video they pretty much work exactly the same as 1.0.
I know this comment is a bit dated, but what speedpaint 1.0 did you use for the uniform? I have a big batch of Romanians and wanted to try speedpaints on them. Thanks!
@@IonicBeard I don't remember the ratios i used but i mixed malignant green, camo cloak and thinned it with some medium as i remember it being a touch to dark. I played around until i found the colour i wanted. I made them a bit darker so i could dry brush some white on as i was going a winter theme.
I've been wanting to see more Bolt Action featured on your channel. A very impressive little model. Just need to finish up another 30 or more of these guys.
Really want this speed paint metallics I have the regular army painter metallic set and did a from night scales too the fairy dust slap chop then tint .
I really hated pure desolate brown when I tried it (over an ivory undercoat) but your 2:1 paint to medium mix over pure white makes it look really nice, I'll be giving it another chance. Thanks!
Thank you for the continual content; Are you using the Speed Paint Medium for each and every color? Are you finding them too strong without the Medium mixed in? Your thoughts are welcomed.
Thank you for watching! I am using medium for all of the speedpaints here, I've found that with the 2.0s it gives you more working time than water although water can still work. For me, using the medium just helps to bring out the highlights a bit more. Each bottle has a gradient on it of the tones you can get out of the paint. I think about it like this: Darkest tone - no medium or 1 drop of medium Mid Tone - 1 to two drops of medium Lightest tone 2 or more drops of medium Thanks for the question! 😄
Great question! This new line has a lot that I thought we're missing from the old line but I'd still like to see a dark muted purple sometime in the future.
Hi, I am new to the hobby and wanted to know if there was a cheap set with all of these paints. I am a little overwhelmed with how many different sets there are so thanks in advance!
I get it. When GW brought out Contrast paints their commentary was that these were designed for people who didn't want to paint or didn't like the work required for shading and highlighting on top of base coating the models. I think you have demonstrated this very well with the speed paints here which allows bods to slap the paint on and get into the war gaming. The difference in time can be measured in hours I personally would not use white as the primer coat for this because I don't like the watercolour effect that results from it. I mean black should look black, dark brown should not be brightened by the white underneath. Anyway, I found that a grey or dark grey works that much better, adding to the depth of colour rather than making it look like a watercolour. Mind you I ruined the premise of the paints by shading darker grey in the recesses of the model to give that gradient to the colour on the model. Under shading if you will.
Do you have a suggestion for a mix or single speed paint to use for English uniforms? Desolate Brown seems perfect for American the British I think needs to be a little richer and more yellow. Literally just how do you copy Vallejo English uniform as a speedpaint
@@wargamesdelivered I might try that. I've been using desolate Brown slightly thinned and I think it looks okay so far. Not as yellow as some of the depictions of English uniforms but my gut feeling is that those are a little exaggerated by false color
I have a Bolt Action/Disposable Heroes US Para "Army" that I painted old school Humbrol enamels and I'm considering stripping them down and speed painting back to the standards my game group embraces... Anyway; while researching the original project I spent a lot of time on reenactor websites and the local militaria store. In short; almost no two peices of WW2 US Army gear is the same colour. "OD" ranges from a mid tan to a mid green. So I painted all of the jump uniforms a basic khaki but I used a range of greens and tans on the packs, canteens, etc. I abhor mixing colours ( cause I'm old school ....) but I know you can blend speed paints so my humble suggestion is to mix up the tans and greens to make the pack, the canteen, the E-tool , etc unique and more interesting.
I was just thinking about this subject as well. The method looks great, clean, and an easy way to add depth to the minis. How do you add depth and make these guys look interesting considering the gear is monochromatic in nature? I mean sure there were varying shades of OD and those colors varied between manufacturers. OD#7(iconic green) was a later war color vs OD#3(khaki) an early-mid war color. Both were produced for gear and uniforms at separate points in time without a huge overlap of a mix of both. Which considering the way the game is played usually very specific games centered around campaigns depicting specific points of the war. So gear wouldn’t be a mix of khaki and olive drab green always. At least not for US paratroopers. However, how do you try make these minis more interesting? Trying to have darker or lighter shades of khaki or ODG really isn’t going to show up. IE gear is lighter than the uniform or lighter and darker than each other will probably end up a big fail. Lol. So, I do like your suggestion just mix in ODG items. Even if it’s not “100% accurate”. This is a mini wargame and artistic license is already has been taken. It must be taken with painting as well in order to add some depth to the models. Otherwise the cool details of the gear and pouches won’t stand out. Which I like your idea better than painting back packs, e tools, and canteens brown as if they were leather. Again I appreciate what was trying to be accomplished and I will calm down and not be an “accuracy nazi” and just enjoy the technique shown. I’ve learned a lot and the mini looks awesome. I have been wanting to get into using US airborne. I currently run a Luftwaffe ground forces army . Which has been fun because because it has a mix of FJs and Feld division which gives a good mix of units that play differently. Can’t wait to try it out. I hope mine look half as good as the one in the video. It looks awesome. Also, I need to look into army painters speed painting set now too. Another paint to buy. Lol. Never ending. Regardless of any criticisms, it was a great video!
The eye rebels when you try different shades of green/khaki for the uniform itself, but painting the pack one color, the canteen another , and the mag pouches yet another really does make the figure "pop" and it's 100 % defensible if you are old enough to have had the opportunity to rummage thru a bin of web belts or leggings at an honest to god surplus store. AS for the speed paints - I haven't repainted any of my WW2 (yet) but the 20 year old hoplites I stripped down and revisited look great. Am I going to re (speed)paint all of my 40 year collection of armies ? It's possible. Here,s a hint : Paint downwards, not sideways. @@hillgiant18
@@roberthultz9023 yeah I bet the variation does just pop on the minis. I’ll take your word for it. I’ll definitely try that with my paras when I get around to it. Though, I still say rummaging through a non of wwii gear at an honest to go surplus shop. I’m sure everything was mixed in early-late. I will say perhaps a mix of of od3 and od7 items would be more common once the uniforms were gear were began to be rolled and replaced as needed when the army began so switch over to od7. Before or late war after the transition. I’ll debate the amount of mix. However, I wasn’t there and have no true idea. lol. So it’s all speculative at this point. I’ll concede that for sure. Again I still like your idea and think it’s the best solution. A mix of od3 and od7. Also, a God’s honest surplus seems to be hard to come as if they’re becoming a thing of the past with great items from days gone by. Though, surplus stores are a wonderful thing.
Hint #2 The "white" speed paints are actually gray. Do the whites first; first the grays than drybush regular white over it. Then speed paint around the white . Hint #3: ( I stole this from a youtuber) the color names are almost meaningless - prime the bottle caps in white then paint with the speed paint within so you know what you are working with.@@hillgiant18
I don't think I'm being clear here. OG3 was a very light green. They would die something like 50 layers of cloth at a time; then cut them to shape. The top layers were to spec, but the mid layers were lighter and the bottom layers were almost tan. The war was on; time was money so they would just pass everything. Brand new issue gear would vary in color and no one really cared. I'm sure the same thing happened with OG7 later on but you didn't get the "tans" it was just various shades of green. Then ; out in the sun and washing in streams you lose some more color so these uniform and gear items that are supposed to be green end up as various shades of khaki in the popular imagination. I remember a Vietnam veteran's account of walking thru a village - the locals are doing laundry and "after 50 washings you can't tell the difference between a US fatigue shirt and a CCP shirt".@@hillgiant18
![One-Coat Paints: Speedpainting US Infantry for WWII Gaming [How I Paint Things]](/img/n.gif)
Wasn't aware of the base colors being on the bottles, Very glad to hear that
It's a huge improvement!
Coming from someone who has painted a 100+ model soviet army using speed paints 1.0, i can tell you it is so much easier when you can get your average soldier painted without basing done in under 10 minutes. Towards the end i was getting a basic soldier done in 6-7 minutes with minimal mistakes. Can't wait to get the hands on 2.0, by the looks of how you use them in the video they pretty much work exactly the same as 1.0.
I know this comment is a bit dated, but what speedpaint 1.0 did you use for the uniform? I have a big batch of Romanians and wanted to try speedpaints on them. Thanks!
@@IonicBeard I don't remember the ratios i used but i mixed malignant green, camo cloak and thinned it with some medium as i remember it being a touch to dark. I played around until i found the colour i wanted. I made them a bit darker so i could dry brush some white on as i was going a winter theme.
Great to see this come out very accurate to the colors of the actual uniform. Very happy with this
Glad you enjoyed it! Now that the name of the paint color is on the bottle as well it really helps to plan out a paint scheme ahead.
I've been wanting to see more Bolt Action featured on your channel. A very impressive little model. Just need to finish up another 30 or more of these guys.
Exactly haha, I'll start adding in some more frequent Bolt Action videos!
That looks great! I used Army Painter Quickshade for my US Paratroopers, but this looks like a much easier process.
Thank you! This new speedpaint could take a quickshade as well if needed!
I just got done painting Paratroopers! Love the walkthrough and he shows such a simple way to paint them. I’m also digging the paint/medium look!
Awesome! Thanks for watching, really simple and effective with a good basecoat 😄
I used this speedpaint mix for the base colour of the uniform. Came out great. Thanks for the colour scheme.
Glad you like it!
Great colour scheme! Great tips for using SpeedPaints 2.0. Thanks for explaining why you thin these.
My pleasure!
Really digging Desolate Brown
It's become one of my favorites out of the 2.0 mega set.
Looks like an easy color scheme to Army Paint... :) Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
Perfect I was looking for something like this using speedpaints. Got a German one?
Really liking the deep khaki color for the uniform. Who was the British guy who painted a similar mini on the channel a few months ago?
The Painting Coach! He has a fantastic Instagram page @thepaintingcoach😄
I usually paint fantasy minis, but this makes me want to work on some more modern/realistic minis!
Historical minis are a great change of pace sometimes!
Really want this speed paint metallics I have the regular army painter metallic set and did a from night scales too the fairy dust slap chop then tint .
They work fantastic! I really like them as a basecoat solution for metallics.
I’ve been interested in attempting painting, getting involved for my own interest.. a few hurdles to jump over recently but will want/try.
Its a very rewarding hobby!
Great tutorial. Really good for horde armies.
Nice! If I get into this game, this is probably the unit I'd start with...
They're a great entry point into the game!
Warrior Skin looks fantastic, I couldn't really get Crusader Skin to look very good for me but this one looks great
I had the same issue! There are a few new skin tones in this line and they've all worked great for me so far.
Great video using the speed paint line to paint up that american paratrooper
Thank you so much 😀
Love the video and the paints guys
Thanks for watching!
Sweet Model!
Thanks for watching 😄
I really hated pure desolate brown when I tried it (over an ivory undercoat) but your 2:1 paint to medium mix over pure white makes it look really nice, I'll be giving it another chance. Thanks!
Thank you for the continual content; Are you using the Speed Paint Medium for each and every color? Are you finding them too strong without the Medium mixed in? Your thoughts are welcomed.
Thank you for watching! I am using medium for all of the speedpaints here, I've found that with the 2.0s it gives you more working time than water although water can still work. For me, using the medium just helps to bring out the highlights a bit more. Each bottle has a gradient on it of the tones you can get out of the paint. I think about it like this:
Darkest tone - no medium or 1 drop of medium
Mid Tone - 1 to two drops of medium
Lightest tone 2 or more drops of medium
Thanks for the question! 😄
@@wargamesdelivered Thank you for taking the time to respond, bit of a newbie, watching and learning.
Happy to help, thanks again!
Are there any colors in the acrylic line that you haven't seen in the SpeedPaints that you wish was a SpeedPaint?
Great question! This new line has a lot that I thought we're missing from the old line but I'd still like to see a dark muted purple sometime in the future.
Woah! Keep this up guys and there may not be any models left in my pile of shame.
That's the goal! Trying to get through mine as well and it just keeps getting bigger somehow
Hi, I am new to the hobby and wanted to know if there was a cheap set with all of these paints. I am a little overwhelmed with how many different sets there are so thanks in advance!
Sure thing! I would recommend this set for the speedpaints: wargamesdelivered.com/products/the-army-painter-speedpaint-mega-set-2-0
I get it. When GW brought out Contrast paints their commentary was that these were designed for people who didn't want to paint or didn't like the work required for shading and highlighting on top of base coating the models. I think you have demonstrated this very well with the speed paints here which allows bods to slap the paint on and get into the war gaming. The difference in time can be measured in hours I personally would not use white as the primer coat for this because I don't like the watercolour effect that results from it. I mean black should look black, dark brown should not be brightened by the white underneath. Anyway, I found that a grey or dark grey works that much better, adding to the depth of colour rather than making it look like a watercolour. Mind you I ruined the premise of the paints by shading darker grey in the recesses of the model to give that gradient to the colour on the model. Under shading if you will.
Does the medium help with reactivation? I noticed some issues with the original starter line
I haven't had any reactivation issue with the 2.0 line!
Do you have a suggestion for a mix or single speed paint to use for English uniforms? Desolate Brown seems perfect for American the British I think needs to be a little richer and more yellow. Literally just how do you copy Vallejo English uniform as a speedpaint
I really like using Skeleton Bone mixed with Ochre Clay for my English Uniforms!
@@wargamesdelivered I might try that. I've been using desolate Brown slightly thinned and I think it looks okay so far. Not as yellow as some of the depictions of English uniforms but my gut feeling is that those are a little exaggerated by false color
I have a Bolt Action/Disposable Heroes US Para "Army" that I painted old school Humbrol enamels and I'm considering stripping them down and speed painting back to the standards my game group embraces... Anyway; while researching the original project I spent a lot of time on reenactor websites and the local militaria store. In short; almost no two peices of WW2 US Army gear is the same colour. "OD" ranges from a mid tan to a mid green. So I painted all of the jump uniforms a basic khaki but I used a range of greens and tans on the packs, canteens, etc. I abhor mixing colours ( cause I'm old school ....) but I know you can blend speed paints so my humble suggestion is to mix up the tans and greens to make the pack, the canteen, the E-tool , etc unique and more interesting.
I was just thinking about this subject as well. The method looks great, clean, and an easy way to add depth to the minis. How do you add depth and make these guys look interesting considering the gear is monochromatic in nature? I mean sure there were varying shades of OD and those colors varied between manufacturers. OD#7(iconic green) was a later war color vs OD#3(khaki) an early-mid war color.
Both were produced for gear and uniforms at separate points in time without a huge overlap of a mix of both. Which considering the way the game is played usually very specific games centered around campaigns depicting specific points of the war. So gear wouldn’t be a mix of khaki and olive drab green always. At least not for US paratroopers.
However, how do you try make these minis more interesting? Trying to have darker or lighter shades of khaki or ODG really isn’t going to show up. IE gear is lighter than the uniform or lighter and darker than each other will probably end up a big fail. Lol. So, I do like your suggestion just mix in ODG items. Even if it’s not “100% accurate”. This is a mini wargame and artistic license is already has been taken. It must be taken with painting as well in order to add some depth to the models. Otherwise the cool details of the gear and pouches won’t stand out. Which I like your idea better than painting back packs, e tools, and canteens brown as if they were leather. Again I appreciate what was trying to be accomplished and I will calm down and not be an “accuracy nazi” and just enjoy the technique shown. I’ve learned a lot and the mini looks awesome. I have been wanting to get into using US airborne. I currently run a Luftwaffe ground forces army . Which has been fun because because it has a mix of FJs and Feld division which gives a good mix of units that play differently.
Can’t wait to try it out. I hope mine look half as good as the one in the video. It looks awesome. Also, I need to look into army painters speed painting set now too. Another paint to buy. Lol. Never ending. Regardless of any criticisms, it was a great video!
The eye rebels when you try different shades of green/khaki for the uniform itself, but painting the pack one color, the canteen another , and the mag pouches yet another really does make the figure "pop" and it's 100 % defensible if you are old enough to have had the opportunity to rummage thru a bin of web belts or leggings at an honest to god surplus store. AS for the speed paints - I haven't repainted any of my WW2 (yet) but the 20 year old hoplites I stripped down and revisited look great. Am I going to re (speed)paint all of my 40 year collection of armies ? It's possible. Here,s a hint : Paint downwards, not sideways. @@hillgiant18
@@roberthultz9023 yeah I bet the variation does just pop on the minis. I’ll take your word for it. I’ll definitely try that with my paras when I get around to it. Though, I still say rummaging through a non of wwii gear at an honest to go surplus shop. I’m sure everything was mixed in early-late. I will say perhaps a mix of of od3 and od7 items would be more common once the uniforms were gear were began to be rolled and replaced as needed when the army began so switch over to od7. Before or late war after the transition. I’ll debate the amount of mix. However, I wasn’t there and have no true idea. lol. So it’s all speculative at this point. I’ll concede that for sure.
Again I still like your idea and think it’s the best solution. A mix of od3 and od7. Also, a God’s honest surplus seems to be hard to come as if they’re becoming a thing of the past with great items from days gone by. Though, surplus stores are a wonderful thing.
Hint #2 The "white" speed paints are actually gray. Do the whites first; first the grays than drybush regular white over it. Then speed paint around the white . Hint #3: ( I stole this from a youtuber) the color names are almost meaningless - prime the bottle caps in white then paint with the speed paint within so you know what you are working with.@@hillgiant18
I don't think I'm being clear here. OG3 was a very light green. They would die something like 50 layers of cloth at a time; then cut them to shape. The top layers were to spec, but the mid layers were lighter and the bottom layers were almost tan. The war was on; time was money so they would just pass everything. Brand new issue gear would vary in color and no one really cared. I'm sure the same thing happened with OG7 later on but you didn't get the "tans" it was just various shades of green. Then ; out in the sun and washing in streams you lose some more color so these uniform and gear items that are supposed to be green end up as various shades of khaki in the popular imagination. I remember a Vietnam veteran's account of walking thru a village - the locals are doing laundry and "after 50 washings you can't tell the difference between a US fatigue shirt and a CCP shirt".@@hillgiant18