2000 LINCOLN TOWN CAR MAKING THE FACTORY AIR RIDE ADJUSTABLE ADDING A DUMP VALVE PARTS 🧲 MAGNET
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ย. 2024
- I PURCHASED THIS CAR 2 YEARS AGO & IMMEDIATELY PARKED IT. I GOT A VERY GOOD DEAL IN IT AND COULDN'T PASS IT UP. DROVE IT HOME ... ALWAYS LIKED THIS BODY STYLE...SOMETHING ABOUT THE ROOF LINE !
2000 Lincoln Town Car
Making the factory air ride adjustable
Adding a dump valve
#LINCOLN
#AIRSUSPENSION
#TOWNCAR
#FlatBattery
#DeadBattery
#4.6V8
#2valve
#OldLuxury
#pantherChassis
#partsmagnet
#airbagged
Glad I found this! It's been forever since I messed with factory air and I'm about to build a bagged Uber Towncar "limo". I cant remember what I did about the factory level control to drive lowered?
I just bypassed it all. New compressor set up.
Are you in Va?
@AHotrodShop Yeah..Amherst. I'm just now thinking about starting on it and came back to your video. I saw what you've been up to and subscribed!
Can u share a lint for all the fittings...or what size ur running
The line was 3/16th. I'm planning on changing my setup soon
So u can't drive it lowered?, It's only for when u park.
It can be driven lowered. But of you lower it too low when the pump is off it triggers the sensor and the pump won't come back on till you restart the car. I plan on adding a tank and extra pump when I bag the front.
Kool
How is it rides ?
Rough and bounces around if all the air is out.
Do you had to energize the solenoid at the same time the dump valve opens? Because the solenoid is a one way valve, and I understand that needs to be open in order to release air, right?
It's an up and dump valve. They are 25yrs old, I believe. I've rebuilt the set of 4 when I had them on my ranger. I did a quick rebuild on it last year. I think it can't handle 140psi. I have replaced my 3 gallon tank with a 1/2 gallon and put a crappy air pressure regulator on it for now. Seems to work better.
Oh wait. I thought this was on my new video. Yes, the factory valve needs power to open each time. For up and dump.
@@AHotrodShop thanks. I want to modify the compressor with an independent switch because it is not working as it should. That’s why I need to “bridge” the solenoids with it.
@@AHotrodShophi buddy. Guess what? I could do that the compressor and rear solenoids work together in order to rise up the car (the air suspension module doesn’t work). My question is, do you think it could be possible to do that the rear solenoids also work with the oem compressor vent solenoid in order to dump it? I mean, I would like to do the rear solenoids work twice (obviously in different moments). One with the compressor and the other with the vent solenoid (I tried separately and it works, but if I bridge them with the same power supply wire, it activates all of them). Thank you in advance.
@jorgemtr90 I just stopped using the factory stuff. Too many variables. I like simple. Lol. You would probably need to wire up individual electric relays for them . That keeps them on separate channels.
Is there a way to make it inflat/dump faster?
Replace lines, Compressor, add a tank, change the valves, change the bag to 2600lb bags. Many different ways. I'm happy with the slow. I'm not planning on dancing it. Just laying it out. When I get all the parts for the front. I might use the 3/16 small line on those also. Thnx
@@AHotrodShop I plan on doing the same. Don't want to dance or hop it lol just want to have it inflate and dump quicker just looks really slow to me
@GOGentTV it is slow. About 25 sec fully deflation. My switch gets stuck which I like. Lol. About 1 - 1.5 minutes to air up. When I fire it up to leave its full in like 2 blocks of driving.
@D T I did this years ago and found that it aired out faster when I added 4-15" subwoofers/box/amps to the trunk. Made it slower airing back up, but I drove it slammed all the time, so no big deal 😂
I have a new video upcoming. I had to redo some of the rear.
Is there a diagram showing how you wired everything
Just what was in the video