2024, just did injectors on a '14, 5.3L. great vid. I did notice the corrosion in the bores. Used o'ring pick to remove large crusties then clean up with bore brush from harbor freight
Thank you for pointing out this critical detail of doing this job correctly. I used a .30 cal bore brush from my 300BLK cleaning kit and Berryman's carb cleaner to clean up the injector bores since I didn't have any solid SS brushes. Bore brush worked great. Bores are spotless! #7 injector seals failed. Any idea what causes these things to start to leak? Coolant ran low and head overheated? Only owned truck for the last 10K miles. I had to drive 200 miles from a deer hunt with a misfire and rear cat loose/banging in the cat housing. Glad it wasn't internal engine issues!
So I just finished the lifter release trick on my Gen V 2015 #6 intake lifter that locked on my way to work a week or so back, and found this very issue. The removal of the rail and injectors (destroyed/bent in removal ($900 for the right rail and 4 injectors from stealership) required so much torque that it stripped the teeth on a 12" MAC Tools indexable prybar, so be prepared with a 30" indexable with small heel. The gunk and corrosion built up above the sealing surfaces. After some careful measurements I found that what is needed is a 7.75mm or Letter N drill bit {approx .302-.305"} the bore is larger than a 19/64 (.2969") drill but smaller than a 5/16 (.3125") drill, (both of these to be held by hand/pair of small vise-grips) and stepping up from .30-.357-.40caliber bore brushes on a drill, using a compression gauge hose to apply shop air to blow out the debris, that my factory injectors were installed without the supplied sealing rings. Also the Haynes manual nor anywhere on google has a torque sequence for the VLOM bolts or the Valve cover bolts. @CrazedPerformanceRepair - love the vids, you saved me thousands!!! that lifter trick is awesome, I used your tool and a Snap-on 3045 body panel air hammer and bumped it about 6-7 times and the lifter released just like in your vid, launching the pushrod out of the pocket. You have a customer and a subscriber!! Oh BTW I found that the gen V will need the oil tower plugs hammered in to prevent a significant loss of engine oil pressure. I did the VLOM mod and also hammered in the plugs, tomorrow will be the test fire as I didnt leave the shop until midnight and still have to install the intake manifold (minus that stupid cover)
Just like I had stated in my other reply to your comment on another one of my videos. You can't use the plugs to block the oil towers if you have AFM lifters equipped. See that comment for a better explanation as to why.
i made the mistake (non clean the corrosion) and i just install back together, after that........multiple misfires detected... but now i'm gonna do that again.
Well I have a 94 suburban Silverado edition TBI and a 2007 Chevy suburban LS AFM 😱 and a 96 Chevy Tahoe LS so I pick a choose what I want to drive the 2007 Chevy suburban has a deactivation chip guess it's ok for now 🙏
Good analysis but if anyone has had any diesel experience they would do this automatically, brushes for cleaning injector bores are par for the course I see someone's comment about rifle cleaning kit, I can't comment on suitability but good diesel ones are brass and/ or stainless usually, cleanliness is next to godliness as i had drummed into me as an apprentice
Agreed, but diesel injectors seal in a different way. They use a metal ring of some sort typically and most are in a place that doesn't see dirt and debris. There are so many different ways diesel injectors seal it's crazy. I have yet to see one with a Teflon seal though. I have seen o-ring injector cup issues but that's a entirely different animal. I ran just the brush through these first but it wasn't enough. It required using the drill bit as a file.
Is there any issue with a stainless steel brush scoring the machined aluminum surface of the injector bore, and ending up causing a seal faulure that can only be fixed by replacing the head? Doing this job now, replacing all 8 injectors on a '17 Escalade, and I'm terrified of destroying a head in the process of just trying to clean the bores.
If the head was damaged if could be fixed. But the goal is not to damage anything. I now use a drill bit that fits the hole just right but I treat the drill bit as a file rather than a drill bit. I get it to go through the hole and then work it up and down like a file with my hands. I hold on to the end with a vice grip though so I don't drop it by accident. It might also be a good idea to put the cylinder on TDC if you're really worried about it.
Excellent video; thank you!
2024, just did injectors on a '14, 5.3L.
great vid. I did notice the corrosion in the bores. Used o'ring pick to remove large crusties then clean up with bore brush from harbor freight
Thank you for pointing out this critical detail of doing this job correctly. I used a .30 cal bore brush from my 300BLK cleaning kit and Berryman's carb cleaner to clean up the injector bores since I didn't have any solid SS brushes. Bore brush worked great. Bores are spotless!
#7 injector seals failed. Any idea what causes these things to start to leak? Coolant ran low and head overheated? Only owned truck for the last 10K miles. I had to drive 200 miles from a deer hunt with a misfire and rear cat loose/banging in the cat housing. Glad it wasn't internal engine issues!
Had trouble getting my new injectors in. Now i know why.
GREAT video!
As always great info thanks. 👍
So I just finished the lifter release trick on my Gen V 2015 #6 intake lifter that locked on my way to work a week or so back, and found this very issue. The removal of the rail and injectors (destroyed/bent in removal ($900 for the right rail and 4 injectors from stealership) required so much torque that it stripped the teeth on a 12" MAC Tools indexable prybar, so be prepared with a 30" indexable with small heel. The gunk and corrosion built up above the sealing surfaces. After some careful measurements I found that what is needed is a 7.75mm or Letter N drill bit {approx .302-.305"} the bore is larger than a 19/64 (.2969") drill but smaller than a 5/16 (.3125") drill, (both of these to be held by hand/pair of small vise-grips) and stepping up from .30-.357-.40caliber bore brushes on a drill, using a compression gauge hose to apply shop air to blow out the debris, that my factory injectors were installed without the supplied sealing rings. Also the Haynes manual nor anywhere on google has a torque sequence for the VLOM bolts or the Valve cover bolts. @CrazedPerformanceRepair - love the vids, you saved me thousands!!! that lifter trick is awesome, I used your tool and a Snap-on 3045 body panel air hammer and bumped it about 6-7 times and the lifter released just like in your vid, launching the pushrod out of the pocket. You have a customer and a subscriber!! Oh BTW I found that the gen V will need the oil tower plugs hammered in to prevent a significant loss of engine oil pressure. I did the VLOM mod and also hammered in the plugs, tomorrow will be the test fire as I didnt leave the shop until midnight and still have to install the intake manifold (minus that stupid cover)
Just like I had stated in my other reply to your comment on another one of my videos. You can't use the plugs to block the oil towers if you have AFM lifters equipped. See that comment for a better explanation as to why.
Is there room to add an o ring to try and keep the moisture and crap out?
Thanks for the heads up
Yes there is a kit. It's expensive but you get a few sizes
Hi thanks for help i ask install injector and install rail or install injector in rail and install ?
i made the mistake (non clean the corrosion) and i just install back together, after that........multiple misfires detected... but now i'm gonna do that again.
Well I have a 94 suburban Silverado edition TBI and a 2007 Chevy suburban LS AFM 😱 and a 96 Chevy Tahoe LS so I pick a choose what I want to drive the 2007 Chevy suburban has a deactivation chip guess it's ok for now 🙏
Gun cleaning kits work very good for this......
Some of them do yes.
So what do you do what all the shit you’ve just dumped down into the cylinder???
Apply pressure through spark plug hole while cleaning injector hole or add grease to bit while cleaning hole out.
Good analysis but if anyone has had any diesel experience they would do this automatically, brushes for cleaning injector bores are par for the course I see someone's comment about rifle cleaning kit, I can't comment on suitability but good diesel ones are brass and/ or stainless usually, cleanliness is next to godliness as i had drummed into me as an apprentice
Agreed, but diesel injectors seal in a different way. They use a metal ring of some sort typically and most are in a place that doesn't see dirt and debris. There are so many different ways diesel injectors seal it's crazy. I have yet to see one with a Teflon seal though. I have seen o-ring injector cup issues but that's a entirely different animal. I ran just the brush through these first but it wasn't enough. It required using the drill bit as a file.
Is there any issue with a stainless steel brush scoring the machined aluminum surface of the injector bore, and ending up causing a seal faulure that can only be fixed by replacing the head?
Doing this job now, replacing all 8 injectors on a '17 Escalade, and I'm terrified of destroying a head in the process of just trying to clean the bores.
If the head was damaged if could be fixed. But the goal is not to damage anything. I now use a drill bit that fits the hole just right but I treat the drill bit as a file rather than a drill bit. I get it to go through the hole and then work it up and down like a file with my hands. I hold on to the end with a vice grip though so I don't drop it by accident. It might also be a good idea to put the cylinder on TDC if you're really worried about it.