Brett, you are obviously well intentioned and want to keep people safe, so I really don’t want to be critical or offensive. That said, there are many serious safety issues with your series of videos that will place yourself and others in legal jeopardy, and at risk of serious injury or death. Others have been critical of your methods, but not offered an explanation. Seeing as you haven’t corrected the issues (or removed the videos), I can only imagine that you have not taken their criticisms seriously. Below is why they are correct. This is why it is important for workers and supervisors to receive proper training, and why the internet can in many instances be a bad source for accurate information. Some of the most glaring issues are: 1. Harness fitting - Your harness is adjusted incorrectly. Your chest strap is far too loose and low, if you body becomes inverted during a fall, the shoulder straps could well separate. There is a plastic loop on your harness that is designed for your snap hook, when not used for fall protection. This is designed to break free should you become snagged for any reason. Clipping on to your harness webbing, in addition to the snag risk, will cause abrasion and prematurely limit the life of your harness. 2. Anchorage Points- Chimneys should not be used as anchorages, because although bricks can sustain a very high compression load, but are very weak (comparatively) when exposed to side forces. What is happening here is the worker is essentially relying on the mortar as an anchor. An average male can generate about 3000 lbs of force over a 2 foot drop. This is why (in my jurisdiction fall arrest anchors have to be rated for 5000 lbs minus the pre-existing load, or 2 times the maximum arrest force. Imagine building a wall, tipping it on it’s side and then parking a 3000 lbs vehicle on it- The mortar will obviously not hold. This is why chimneys are terrible anchors, unless you want to fall, and have a significant portion of a chimney fall on you. 3. Lifeline- Additionally, any bend will decrease the tensile strength of a given rope, multiple bends will compound this phenomenon. As a matter of fact, your rope’s manual will tell you to attach the snap hook to a compatible anchor point. 4. Swing fall is not considered in this video. 5. Rope grabs - Do not hang on to your rope grab whilst moving, if you fall your hand has a tendency to grip on the rope grab, this is called a suicide grip or death grip. Feed a small amount of slack, let go of your rope grab then move. It is true that some rope grabs have panic stops, they are designed to stop you if you perform a death grip. These panic stops work with a greater or lesser degree of effectiveness. If you are in a habit of never holding on to your rope grab, it does not matter if your rope grab is equipped with a panic stop or not. If your rope grab has a panic stop you are not reliant on it. I feel like you are well intentioned, but it is clear that you are not adequately trained nor have you read the manuals for the equipment your are employing. Please for goodness sakes, take these videos down, and/or remake them after you have received proper instruction. I hope you would be concerned that someone should get hurt whilst taking your advice.
Great instructions. What do you think about the do it yourself roof climber such as me leaving permanent anchor points on their roof for the next time. Both in tin and tiled roofs?
Randy Goldberg Thanks, just trying to keep people safe. My suggestion is to have an adequately trained tradesperson perform the work, this is not always feasible due to a number of factors. I would strongly suggest taking a fall protection course from a qualified instructor. The difficulty with permanent anchor points is that (in my jurisdiction at least) they must be inspected yearly by a qualified engineer. There are specific anchor points designed for metal roofs, that clamp into standing seams. As for tile roofs, there are many anchors designed to be fit under the ridge caps or tiles. An alternative might be to anchor appropriately to the joists and bring an an adequately protected lifeline through a roof vent. A good starting point is to check in with your local safety equipment retailers. As always, seek competent training and follow manufacturers’ instructions. I’m sorry I can’t be of more help without being better educated with your local regulations and specific hazards. Good luck!
That doesn't quite look like the typical red terracotta brick chimney. Those big chimneys usually are put together with framing. So him using it as a anchor point would most likely be sufficient. You including in the sing fall doesn't really apply to the area he's working in. It's pretty much a straight shot to his work area. He's keeping his rope tight, it's moreso fall restraint than fall arrest in this scenario. Now if he was going all over the roof, he would have to get anchor brackets and take off a few pieces of cap next to a rafter, install it, and so fourth. Falls happen when the person using them aren't using them correctly, aren't keeping the rop grab tight, aren't paying attention to where the anchor point is in relation to where they're working. Etc etc. I get that you trying to put your two sense in but I've been doing roofing for 5 years now and have had to do my fall protection twice, along with commercial fall protection plans on high rises. I know what I'm talking about from experience.
Ok so let's say you have a metal roof where do you put the anchor? This is the first video that at least do something. All video I saw are for asphalt.
Its great to see people, educating and trying to push the boundaries of working at height safer. this technique seems to be not very useful though, far too long messing about trying to install while you are unprotected, stood upright on the peak of a roof.
One alternative is the tie a loop on ground and use a long extension pole to put the loop over the chimney. Then you are protected when climbing up with a harness system.
@@goingoingone8667 I think you have to anchor going up. The big boys tie a rope to their car then throw it from the other side of the house. That way from the moment you step off the ladder you are attached to the harness. I would appreciate it if marshmellow would give us more information.
Brett, you are obviously well intentioned and want to keep people safe, so I really don’t want to be critical or offensive. That said, there are many serious safety issues with your series of videos that will place yourself and others in legal jeopardy, and at risk of serious injury or death.
Others have been critical of your methods, but not offered an explanation. Seeing as you haven’t corrected the issues (or removed the videos), I can only imagine that you have not taken their criticisms seriously. Below is why they are correct.
This is why it is important for workers and supervisors to receive proper training, and why the internet can in many instances be a bad source for accurate information.
Some of the most glaring issues are:
1. Harness fitting - Your harness is adjusted incorrectly. Your chest strap is far too loose and low, if you body becomes inverted during a fall, the shoulder straps could well separate. There is a plastic loop on your harness that is designed for your snap hook, when not used for fall protection. This is designed to break free should you become snagged for any reason. Clipping on to your harness webbing, in addition to the snag risk, will cause abrasion and prematurely limit the life of your harness.
2. Anchorage Points- Chimneys should not be used as anchorages, because although bricks can sustain a very high compression load, but are very weak (comparatively) when exposed to side forces. What is happening here is the worker is essentially relying on the mortar as an anchor. An average male can generate about 3000 lbs of force over a 2 foot drop. This is why (in my jurisdiction fall arrest anchors have to be rated for 5000 lbs minus the pre-existing load, or 2 times the maximum arrest force. Imagine building a wall, tipping it on it’s side and then parking a 3000 lbs vehicle on it- The mortar will obviously not hold. This is why chimneys are terrible anchors, unless you want to fall, and have a significant portion of a chimney fall on you.
3. Lifeline- Additionally, any bend will decrease the tensile strength of a given rope, multiple bends will compound this phenomenon. As a matter of fact, your rope’s manual will tell you to attach the snap hook to a compatible anchor point.
4. Swing fall is not considered in this video.
5. Rope grabs - Do not hang on to your rope grab whilst moving, if you fall your hand has a tendency to grip on the rope grab, this is called a suicide grip or death grip. Feed a small amount of slack, let go of your rope grab then move. It is true that some rope grabs have panic stops, they are designed to stop you if you perform a death grip. These panic stops work with a greater or lesser degree of effectiveness. If you are in a habit of never holding on to your rope grab, it does not matter if your rope grab is equipped with a panic stop or not. If your rope grab has a panic stop you are not reliant on it.
I feel like you are well intentioned, but it is clear that you are not adequately trained nor have you read the manuals for the equipment your are employing. Please for goodness sakes, take these videos down, and/or remake them after you have received proper instruction. I hope you would be concerned that someone should get hurt whilst taking your advice.
Great instructions. What do you think about the do it yourself roof climber such as me leaving permanent anchor points on their roof for the next time. Both in tin and tiled roofs?
Randy Goldberg Thanks, just trying to keep people safe.
My suggestion is to have an adequately trained tradesperson perform the work, this is not always feasible due to a number of factors. I would strongly suggest taking a fall protection course from a qualified instructor.
The difficulty with permanent anchor points is that (in my jurisdiction at least) they must be inspected yearly by a qualified engineer.
There are specific anchor points designed for metal roofs, that clamp into standing seams. As for tile roofs, there are many anchors designed to be fit under the ridge caps or tiles. An alternative might be to anchor appropriately to the joists and bring an an adequately protected lifeline through a roof vent. A good starting point is to check in with your local safety equipment retailers.
As always, seek competent training and follow manufacturers’ instructions. I’m sorry I can’t be of more help without being better educated with your local regulations and specific hazards. Good luck!
@@Nunyabizn3ss Thank you Marshy. We appreciate it.
Very informative . Thanks for sharing your expertise
That doesn't quite look like the typical red terracotta brick chimney. Those big chimneys usually are put together with framing. So him using it as a anchor point would most likely be sufficient. You including in the sing fall doesn't really apply to the area he's working in. It's pretty much a straight shot to his work area.
He's keeping his rope tight, it's moreso fall restraint than fall arrest in this scenario. Now if he was going all over the roof, he would have to get anchor brackets and take off a few pieces of cap next to a rafter, install it, and so fourth.
Falls happen when the person using them aren't using them correctly, aren't keeping the rop grab tight, aren't paying attention to where the anchor point is in relation to where they're working. Etc etc.
I get that you trying to put your two sense in but I've been doing roofing for 5 years now and have had to do my fall protection twice, along with commercial fall protection plans on high rises. I know what I'm talking about from experience.
you should most definitely take a fall arrest course, never anchor to a chimney.
He is in a fall restraint, not fall arrest scenario. But you are right that chimney's are not rated for fall arrest.
Ok so let's say you have a metal roof where do you put the anchor? This is the first video that at least do something. All video I saw are for asphalt.
Wrong. Chimley is the best for a tie in point.
Stop parroting things that you heard from a course without using any critical thinking.
Of that chimney can’t handle keeping him from sliding down, better get a new chimney.
lol third time's the charm...cutscene.
Its great to see people, educating and trying to push the boundaries of working at height safer.
this technique seems to be not very useful though, far too long messing about trying to install while you are unprotected, stood upright on the peak of a roof.
Something is better then nothing.
One alternative is the tie a loop on ground and use a long extension pole to put the loop over the chimney. Then you are protected when climbing up with a harness system.
@@LShao-kf2su show me how princess
Thanks for the info. Is there a link showing where can the equipment be purchased?
Great work Brett.
If you want to skip rope on the eves you need to stand further back from the chimney. Jking.
And what happens if you fall while trying to make yourself safe, Don't you think the method is flawed? You're meant to be safe 100% of the time.
Luke Johnson ok so how do you make it 100 percent all the time?
@@goingoingone8667 I think you have to anchor going up. The big boys tie a rope to their car then throw it from the other side of the house. That way from the moment you step off the ladder you are attached to the harness. I would appreciate it if marshmellow would give us more information.
@@randygoldberg8753 "the big boys" sounds a bit gay to me Randy :-(
@@phillhuddleston9445 You are so right.
yup old school it works fine for the handy man
Really!? Never use a Chimney as an anchor point. Is NOT rated for that use. Pendejo....
its better than nothing