A good reason to take cuttings in winter is if the last time you took cuttings of that tree in winter, they struck! Today I posted a video of my Dwarf Arborvitae and showed it with a rooted cutting I took from it last January. The secret? I overwintered it in the greenhouse, even though it should be winter hardy in my zone 7a. I take another, even more mature cutting in the video which I will overwinter the same way. Hope I am as lucky this time, because I really prize this tree.
Hey Jelle, I take hundreds of winter cuttings and have had widely varied success as well, some years I will get up to 80% success and others maybe 20% success. Species does make a huge impact on success too. My best technique for you would be the one I used when I lived in Pennsylvania, I was always told to keep the tops cold and the feet warm,this seems to offer the best results. I Leah’s take cuttings after the winter solstice, so day length is extending, I’ve learned winter cuttings need to be a bit more beefy, so pencil thickness on most species. I use a medium strength rooting hormone, typically with an anti fungal incorporated. Course sand or very fine sifted bonsai soil is a good substrate, as it holds the moisture very well. Stick them 2-3” deep, then in climates with serious freezes, use a warming pad for 3-4 weeks, set between 72-75 degrees, this will jumpstart the callous process, then when spring comes and buds swell root tips will follow. Once you pull the flats of cuttings off the warming pads, place them on the ground so they are in contact with the soil, this should keep the callous process moving. In warmer climates heat pad may not be necessary, but never hurts to jump start the process. Good luck this season.
ive only had rose of sharron/hardy hibiscus success with hard wood cuttings.i for sure like spring or early summer cuttings best. or even better a indoor prop tent with heated seedling mats under the pots or trays. Thanks jelle n xav for show your challenge/experiment!
I were kind of surprised that you cut the cuttings so short, that might be a reason for not having too much success with them. I cut them about 25-30cms long, make a wedge with my spade in the ground, add some sand in the bottom, put the cutings in a row and tread it in so they are surrounded with soil. I have had about 60-95% success in this way. And the time is usually in October.
I only did 1 cutting in our South African winter, was a seiju elm, did some hard pruning and just put it in normal garden soil in a pot, did not expect it to root. Its summer here now and it's still alive.
Got ya.... Winter cuttings... Nay... Unless you have some time and soil to waste.... Hahaha! Great show guys! I wonder if a wooden plank you grow square roots....🤔
In my country, the best time for planting is to cut the branches in the winter so that they have a lot of roots, because the summer is very hot, the temperature reaches 47 degrees Celsius, and the winter is not very cold, reaches -7 degrees Celsius. I plant it in pots, put a plastic bag with some holes on it, and put it in the green house
This is very cool, I only do winter cuttings when I have to prune a dormant tree and it's all gonna be discarted anyways... For example, I just removed a big sacrifice branch on my Trident Maple (it's winter here), to prepare the tree to be lifted for a rootwork soon... So, trident maple winter cuttings it is, if one of them strike, I'll be happy
My winter cuttings always fail, too. Crossing my fingers for next spring, when I am planning some big cuts on a kabudachi maple planting - a few potential trees there! Heading into summer now and I am tempted to try for some softwood maples . . . Love these collaborative videos!!
Brilliant video - covered many of my past experiences. A few species do very well for me using hardwood cuttings (taken around leaf fall). They include cherry plum (Prunus cerasifera) (and other wild plums), hydrangea, red flowering current (Ribes sanguineum) and gummy gooseberry (Ribes lobii). The latter two are native to the mild Canadian west coast and would do well in your climate. Miserable failure with TONNES of other trees. However, when I get even 1 successful strike from something rare, I feel its a win! I used sand/perlite mixture, but I think its hard to keep right moisture balance. I suspect using 6 inch cuttings planted in deeper pots also buffers the temperature fluctuations - but again, have problems with right moisture balance. I think I moved some cuttings into bright sun too quickly at bud break, but maybe they were destined to die once their sap reserves were used up. As suggested below, bottom heat could be a game changer.
I stick cuttings from January until September. January until first push, then soon as fist push is done it’s softwood cuttings time, June til July, then it’s semi-hardwood cuttings time, July through first week of September, bottom heat starts in October until November. Then I take a break from cuttings. I use corse sand, totes, and shade. I have lots of videos that show how I do it on my channel. But with all that said, doing all your cuttings in march allows everything to be fully rooted out by mid august . That is the best time and way if you don’t have a mist propagation system set up, which mine is almost ready for next year, so instead of only being able to do 100s at a time I can do 1000s at a time of each . Hope this helps someone. I have propagated 1000s of cuttings.
I've only done hardwood cuttings with willow & Black,red & white Currants. Around a foot/30cm long & about 3/8" , 1 cm thick. I push them in to the ground half way. So far I get more success than failure. Obviously willow roots for fun. I suspect the currants must be similar.
Hi ! From my experience, in winter the cutting need to be thicker than a pencil, be covered with candle wax to be avoid roten from the heavy rain and to put them in new freshly garden soil, once pinch in the pot you cover the surface with pumice in order to avoid getting them to be roten again. The goal for fall cuttings is to avoid them to get fungi and roten.
I’m curious as to how your trees don’t die during the winter - I just watched your overwintering video and I don’t understand how the roots done freeze since all of your trees are potted and not buried. I understand using the ground temperature as a source of some heat, but when we talk about -10 to -15C like you mention - I can’t wrap me head around the roots not freezing over. Curious in your extended thoughts.
Very interesting to see the level of non-success! As a beginner tree grower I’m generally impressed with both your knowledge and practical expertise. I’ve started several batches of h/w cuttings in the last weeks. Some in pots in soil, in inorganic mix, covered, uncovered and some in an old style heeled-in trench. May also try some in a plastic container with bottom heat. A kinda scattershot blitzkrieg trials method. It’s my first year trying, so I expect silly errors, lots of practical experience and poor results, but I was setting the bar at something like 20%. Not 3-5% that ye seem to be getting. We shall see.
I have had other videos blocked for similar expressions. It is not a US englisch word so I decided to not take any risk. Once uploaded, you cannot edit it out.
@@GrowingBonsai Hmm, that's something YT should edit their algorithms around; "cocky" is definitely in US English and has never been on a censorship list.
@@abydosianchulac2 Indeed, it is even a (very annoying) Australian bird!! Many gardeners would like to edit out the bird at times, I have to admit . . .
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A good reason to take cuttings in winter is if the last time you took cuttings of that tree in winter, they struck! Today I posted a video of my Dwarf Arborvitae and showed it with a rooted cutting I took from it last January. The secret? I overwintered it in the greenhouse, even though it should be winter hardy in my zone 7a. I take another, even more mature cutting in the video which I will overwinter the same way. Hope I am as lucky this time, because I really prize this tree.
Please share the link to your video in a comment for people to follow!
I love it when you guys co-create a video!
Yt gardening only the trees get the drama ...the creators are chill AF
Me too! It is a shame Xav and I are far apart, else we would work together more, I am sure.
:)
Yeah these videos are great!
“Does he only have one set of clothes?” 😂😂
Nice to see winter cuttings can still take well!
:) @xavier and I tease a little
Hey Jelle,
I take hundreds of winter cuttings and have had widely varied success as well, some years I will get up to 80% success and others maybe 20% success. Species does make a huge impact on success too. My best technique for you would be the one I used when I lived in Pennsylvania, I was always told to keep the tops cold and the feet warm,this seems to offer the best results. I Leah’s take cuttings after the winter solstice, so day length is extending, I’ve learned winter cuttings need to be a bit more beefy, so pencil thickness on most species. I use a medium strength rooting hormone, typically with an anti fungal incorporated. Course sand or very fine sifted bonsai soil is a good substrate, as it holds the moisture very well. Stick them 2-3” deep, then in climates with serious freezes, use a warming pad for 3-4 weeks, set between 72-75 degrees, this will jumpstart the callous process, then when spring comes and buds swell root tips will follow. Once you pull the flats of cuttings off the warming pads, place them on the ground so they are in contact with the soil, this should keep the callous process moving. In warmer climates heat pad may not be necessary, but never hurts to jump start the process. Good luck this season.
Thank you so much for the extensive write-up! Need to go out and give it a try again this winter you say? ok then! Christmas project!
Fun stuff!
Playing around with little trees and joking about with the brits; Good times were had.
ive only had rose of sharron/hardy hibiscus success with hard wood cuttings.i for sure like spring or early summer cuttings best. or even better a indoor prop tent with heated seedling mats under the pots or trays. Thanks jelle n xav for show your challenge/experiment!
Good to know!
I were kind of surprised that you cut the cuttings so short, that might be a reason for not having too much success with them. I cut them about 25-30cms long, make a wedge with my spade in the ground, add some sand in the bottom, put the cutings in a row and tread it in so they are surrounded with soil. I have had about 60-95% success in this way. And the time is usually in October.
thx!
This was extremely informative. I have wondered what was possible in the winter. Thank you for the knowledge!
THis is very much possible, but both Xav and I do not really like doing this over winter!
I only did 1 cutting in our South African winter, was a seiju elm, did some hard pruning and just put it in normal garden soil in a pot, did not expect it to root. Its summer here now and it's still alive.
Congrats!
Un grand merci pour la vidéo!
De rien! You are welcome
This is very timely. I was about to take trident cuttings over the weekend. Think I will leave it till spring after seeing this. Thanks!
Now: The spring cuttings are of the fresh growth, and not the mature branches!
Got ya.... Winter cuttings... Nay... Unless you have some time and soil to waste.... Hahaha! Great show guys! I wonder if a wooden plank you grow square roots....🤔
Possibly! To be honest, wintercuttings work really well for many..
In my country, the best time for planting is to cut the branches in the winter so that they have a lot of roots, because the summer is very hot, the temperature reaches 47 degrees Celsius, and the winter is not very cold, reaches -7 degrees Celsius.
I plant it in pots, put a plastic bag with some holes on it, and put it in the green house
Good to hear. So I should keep doing it!
This is very cool, I only do winter cuttings when I have to prune a dormant tree and it's all gonna be discarted anyways... For example, I just removed a big sacrifice branch on my Trident Maple (it's winter here), to prepare the tree to be lifted for a rootwork soon... So, trident maple winter cuttings it is, if one of them strike, I'll be happy
give it a try!
I will be there if I can get just stop all of these hardwood cuttings from rooting everytime I put them in soil...or did I mean 'rotting' :)
Stop rooting wooden planks my friend, and success will be much better!
That's a lot of cuttings bro...
Grts
Kennet
Hahaha, yeah. Lots of dead cuttings ;)
My winter cuttings always fail, too. Crossing my fingers for next spring, when I am planning some big cuts on a kabudachi maple planting - a few potential trees there! Heading into summer now and I am tempted to try for some softwood maples . . . Love these collaborative videos!!
Good luck! And thank you!
Brilliant video - covered many of my past experiences. A few species do very well for me using hardwood cuttings (taken around leaf fall). They include cherry plum (Prunus cerasifera) (and other wild plums), hydrangea, red flowering current (Ribes sanguineum) and gummy gooseberry (Ribes lobii). The latter two are native to the mild Canadian west coast and would do well in your climate.
Miserable failure with TONNES of other trees. However, when I get even 1 successful strike from something rare, I feel its a win!
I used sand/perlite mixture, but I think its hard to keep right moisture balance. I suspect using 6 inch cuttings planted in deeper pots also buffers the temperature fluctuations - but again, have problems with right moisture balance. I think I moved some cuttings into bright sun too quickly at bud break, but maybe they were destined to die once their sap reserves were used up. As suggested below, bottom heat could be a game changer.
Yeah, should find a heat mat!
Great research work! We announce you both the toppers in the class.
thank you so much!
You guys are the best 😊
It is all about Xavier
always fun content when you guys make videos together :)
Yeah, we should do more collabs..
I stick cuttings from January until September. January until first push, then soon as fist push is done it’s softwood cuttings time, June til July, then it’s semi-hardwood cuttings time, July through first week of September, bottom heat starts in October until November. Then I take a break from cuttings. I use corse sand, totes, and shade. I have lots of videos that show how I do it on my channel. But with all that said, doing all your cuttings in march allows everything to be fully rooted out by mid august . That is the best time and way if you don’t have a mist propagation system set up, which mine is almost ready for next year, so instead of only being able to do 100s at a time I can do 1000s at a time of each . Hope this helps someone. I have propagated 1000s of cuttings.
thx, will take a peek!
I've only done hardwood cuttings with willow & Black,red & white Currants.
Around a foot/30cm long & about 3/8" , 1 cm thick. I push them in to the ground half way. So far I get more success than failure.
Obviously willow roots for fun. I suspect the currants must be similar.
Yes, willow roots if you just look at the stump!
Hi !
From my experience, in winter the cutting need to be thicker than a pencil, be covered with candle wax to be avoid roten from the heavy rain and to put them in new freshly garden soil, once pinch in the pot you cover the surface with pumice in order to avoid getting them to be roten again. The goal for fall cuttings is to avoid them to get fungi and roten.
Thx! Will take this into account next time around!
Hello Jelle, I'm curious whether the cuttings understood your advice. 😜 I collected cuttings in the garden and forest today.
Sounds great!
Great video but im not convinced. As you said Jelle, I don't like them and I don't understand them 😂
Yeah, they are tricky. Spring cuttings do MUCH better for me.
Nice Video together ! I will do Spring cuttings thats better 😂
Sounds good!
I’m curious as to how your trees don’t die during the winter - I just watched your overwintering video and I don’t understand how the roots done freeze since all of your trees are potted and not buried. I understand using the ground temperature as a source of some heat, but when we talk about -10 to -15C like you mention - I can’t wrap me head around the roots not freezing over. Curious in your extended thoughts.
Oh, but they do freeze. Most roots however can stand a few degrees of frost.
What medium are you planting the cuttings in?
Did not check what I used in the video, but probably just regular substrate!
I think bottom heat would help you guys.
Probably would. I do however try and propagate without buying special equipment. (Now, a heatmat is not so special, I admit)
👍👌🙂
💚
Funny battel 🌞🌱🇩🇰
Thank you so much!
Very interesting to see the level of non-success! As a beginner tree grower I’m generally impressed with both your knowledge and practical expertise. I’ve started several batches of h/w cuttings in the last weeks. Some in pots in soil, in inorganic mix, covered, uncovered and some in an old style heeled-in trench. May also try some in a plastic container with bottom heat. A kinda scattershot blitzkrieg trials method. It’s my first year trying, so I expect silly errors, lots of practical experience and poor results, but I was setting the bar at something like 20%. Not 3-5% that ye seem to be getting. We shall see.
Keep trying for success. This video was also meant as an encouragement to try stuff, and not to worry about failure. It is how we grow.
Wait a second, "cocky" is the word that YT made you censor? That's not a swear in any way!
TH-cam changing its name to Censor You
I have had other videos blocked for similar expressions. It is not a US englisch word so I decided to not take any risk. Once uploaded, you cannot edit it out.
yup
@@GrowingBonsai Hmm, that's something YT should edit their algorithms around; "cocky" is definitely in US English and has never been on a censorship list.
@@abydosianchulac2 Indeed, it is even a (very annoying) Australian bird!! Many gardeners would like to edit out the bird at times, I have to admit . . .