I like your use of the word “seasoning,” like preparing a wok or a cast iron skillet. If people understood Frog Lube as a means of seasoning the metal, maybe they wouldn’t be as fearful of running “dry,” which is why they ultimately leave too much on, leading sticky/gummy residue-relayed issues. It does require a fair bit of methodical cleaning beforehand, and the added hassle of preheating the gun parts before application, so those with little patience for those extra steps shouldn’t go with Frog Lube. It’s a little pricey, so the “Mobil1 is all I need” guys are poor candidates as well. But the amazing rust inhibiting properties of the stuff and the “green” nature of the product are selling points. Also, the fact that Yankee Marshall hates it rings as an endorsement in my book.
“The BEST WAY to use FROG LUBE” You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hey I'll try to make this short best way for frog lube. NEEDED: hair dryer (NOT a heat gun), frog lube (paste is best), gun cleaning tapered "Q" tip if you have them {they don't leave fibers}, small pieces of “clean cotton” tee shirt, Field strip gun 1.) clean gun, one part at a time, with what ever you think gets it "clean" best, use a nylon bristle brush {lead solvent/oil/etc. (if you have to use a pick now & then for stuck grit, use it){ leave no "oil" when done} use something like gun scrub/brake clean to "finish" that dries clean & quick.( if you use oil, at all, small trigger parts sparingly "only" ! { clean & only oil "inside" of barrel, wipe it out, "as much as possible" (carefully/sparingly, do not to get "oil" anywhere else, not even guide rod “springs” after cleaning them) " {re-inspect for cleanliness} 2.) with supplies at hand, heat slide with hair dryer as hot as you can stand , inside & out ,{have glove to hold} immediately apply (with cotton tee shirt squares or “gun” q-tip swabs) "very sparingly" , just enough frog lube to just cover any area (should turn to liquid from heat). {outside of slide too}(well into the rails etc.) {keep it away from firing pin hole & channel, if your firing pin comes out easily, pull it, clean it , dry it, & use frog lube on it also,wipe it off very well. Do “NOT “ frog lube the firing pin channel , just clean & dry it. 3.) Let the frog lube sit for a minute or two on all the separated & cleaned parts. Now, rub off "EVERY BIT" & I mean "every bit" , you can off , with the cotton tee shirt squares & Gun tapered "Q" Tips. Always finish with the TEE shirt. 4.) Leave none behind, ( some people do, It doesn't work that way, rookie mistake it'll gum-up later when the gun heats up, not good) 5.) Try not to touch parts too much with your hands after done with each part.( then do the outside of slide & barrel, it will look GREAT ,also well protected) 4.) Do this with each part, the slide rails on grip/body, ) the outside of mags,(unloaded),{wipe out, mag well w/clean cotton square,alcohol.{ no frog lube inside there} Metal guide rod if spring is removable, (not the spring itself) every where on the "outside" of the barrel, “only”. Leave no hint of frog lube anywhere !!!! Your DONE !! The results are well protected , "slipperier than puppy poop" moving parts that don't get "GUMMED" "UP" , because there's no oil for powder residue to "STICK" to. After you put it back together, & work the slide, fast , then locked back & release it, then fast again (sling shot "without" the mag in to lock it open). You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hope you really do this according to what I wrote, especially if you have a Sig, or HK , Glock, CZ, etc. because what you thought you had, just got better.
i don't use F.L. on the internals cause if you can't wipe it off it does dry out. as long as you CAN wipe it off it's ok. But i just put a drop of oil in the guts. F.L. on the "outsides" as a clp.
J. Dalton, I love ya buddy, but you're doing it way wrong. You can not slop that stuff on with a tooth brush. Here's the correct way & only this way. Liked & Subscribed to you as usual !! Hey I'll try to make this short best way for frog lube. NEEDED: hair dryer, frog lube gun cleaning tapered "Q" tip if you have them {they don't leave fibers}, small pieces of cotton tee shirt, Field strip gun 1.) clean gun, one part at a time, with what ever you think gets it "clean" best. { leave no "oil" when done} use something like gun scrub to "finish" that dries clean & quick.( if you use oil, at all, small trigger parts sparingly "only" ! { clean & oil inside of barrel, wiped out "as much as possible" (carefully/sparingly, do not to get "oil" anywhere else, not even guide rod “springs”) " 2.) with supplies at hand, heat slide with hair dryer as hot as you can stand , inside & out ,{have glove to hold} immediately apply very sparingly, just enough frog lube to just cover any area. {outside of slide too}(well into the rails etc.) {keep it away from firing pin hole, if your firing pin comes out easily, pull it, clean it , dry it, & use frog lube on it also. Do “NOT “ frog lube the firing pin channel , just clean & dry it. 3.) Let the frog lube sit for a minute or two. Now rub off "EVERY BIT" & I mean "every bit" , you can with the cotton tee shirt squares & Gun "Q" Tips. Always finish with the TEE shirt. leave none behind, (It doesn't work that way, rookie mistake)Try not to touch parts too much with your hands after done with each part.( the outside of slide will look GREAT ,also well protected) 4.) Do this with each part, rails on grip/body, metal guide rods(not spring) outside of mags,(unloaded),{wipe out, mag well w/clean cotton square,alcohol.) guide rod if spring is removable, every where on the "outside" of the barrel only. Leave no hint of frog lube anywhere. Your DONE !! The results are well protected , "slipperier than puppy poop" moving parts that don't get "GUMMED" "UP" , because there's no oil for powder residue to "STICK" to. After you put it back together, & work the slide, fast , then locked back & release it, then fast again (sling shot "without" the mag in to lock it open). You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do it once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hope you really do this according to what I wrote, especially if you have a Sig, or HK , Glock, CZ, etc. because what you thought you had, just got better.
J.D., I use F.L. on most of my toys for years BUT, when i used it on revolvers the cylinders must have got some some on the crane and made the cylinders not spin freely. Yes i use their solvent and wiped off F.L. as per they say. it does gum up the insides "IF" ya don't wipe it off. good video.
It is coconut oil with fragrance and stabilizing additives for lower temperatures. Here is a Mass spectrometer reading of Frog Lube against Coconut Oil. www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/FrogLube_v_CoconutOil.jpg
I've been using FL for a few years and I never had a problem. My firearms that have it look dry. I seldom use the solvent FL , just the CLP paste/liquid to clean. Occasionally I'll put a little on a napkin and just wipe down the inside and out. I never had rust or sticking problems. I live in Florida. I know a friend of mine uses it like oil. He has it wet with FL. Some people just can't change over from Petrol products to correctly apply this product I guess.
J. Dalton, I love ya buddy, but you're doing it way wrong. You can not slop that stuff on with a tooth brush. Here's the correct way & only this way. Liked & Subscribed to you as usual !! Hey I'll try to make this short best way for frog lube. NEEDED: hair dryer, frog lube gun cleaning tapered "Q" tip if you have them {they don't leave fibers}, small pieces of cotton tee shirt, Field strip gun 1.) clean gun, one part at a time, with what ever you think gets it "clean" best. { leave no "oil" when done} use something like gun scrub to "finish" that dries clean & quick.( if you use oil, at all, small trigger parts sparingly "only" ! { clean & oil inside of barrel, wiped out "as much as possible" (carefully/sparingly, do not to get "oil" anywhere else, not even guide rod “springs”) " 2.) with supplies at hand, heat slide with hair dryer as hot as you can stand , inside & out ,{have glove to hold} immediately apply very sparingly, just enough frog lube to just cover any area. {outside of slide too}(well into the rails etc.) {keep it away from firing pin hole, if your firing pin comes out easily, pull it, clean it , dry it, & use frog lube on it also. Do “NOT “ frog lube the firing pin channel , just clean & dry it. 3.) Let the frog lube sit for a minute or two. Now rub off "EVERY BIT" & I mean "every bit" , you can with the cotton tee shirt squares & Gun "Q" Tips. Always finish with the TEE shirt. leave none behind, (It doesn't work that way, rookie mistake)Try not to touch parts too much with your hands after done with each part.( the outside of slide will look GREAT ,also well protected) 4.) Do this with each part, rails on grip/body, metal guide rods(not spring) outside of mags,(unloaded),{wipe out, mag well w/clean cotton square,alcohol.) guide rod if spring is removable, every where on the "outside" of the barrel only. Leave no hint of frog lube anywhere. Your DONE !! The results are well protected , "slipperier than puppy poop" moving parts that don't get "GUMMED" "UP" , because there's no oil for powder residue to "STICK" to. After you put it back together, & work the slide, fast , then locked back & release it, then fast again (sling shot "without" the mag in to lock it open). You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do it once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hope you really do this according to what I wrote, especially if you have a Sig, or HK , Glock, CZ, etc. because what you thought you had, just got better.
Do you not use automatic transmission fluid and motor oil anymore? I personally do not like FrogLube if you shooting a lot of rounds fast and your gun gets hot it runs into areas you really don't want it to.
I really enjoy your videos. Very educational. I know I have a goofy youtube name. I was at one time going to do ecigarette vape reviews etc but never got around to it. Thanks for all you do.
Johnathen Stommel I use one every time I clean my AR and my AK. I still use a rod with a bore brush every few range trips so that I can get the rifling clean but bore snakes do save time.
travisp11 yeah I just was amazed that the bore snakes work so good I have used rod and brush my whole life so when I was introduced to the snake I just was having a hard time believing that they work but they do
J. Dalton yeah same here but since a rifle is more appropriate for a shtf/wrol situation it's probably wise to make sure that your rifle is in tip top shape that's why I was asking just to ensure that the snakes are a suitable form of cleaning your boar
Hey boss should I take out the striker to clean it and the springs out. Also love this and your brother from another mother Travisp111 channel lots of good info for new gun owners
J. Dalton, I love ya buddy, but you're doing it way wrong. You can not slop that stuff on with a tooth brush. Here's the correct way & only this way. Liked & Subscribed to you as usual !! Hey I'll try to make this short best way for frog lube. NEEDED: hair dryer, frog lube gun cleaning tapered "Q" tip if you have them {they don't leave fibers}, small pieces of cotton tee shirt, Field strip gun 1.) clean gun, one part at a time, with what ever you think gets it "clean" best. { leave no "oil" when done} use something like gun scrub to "finish" that dries clean & quick.( if you use oil, at all, small trigger parts sparingly "only" ! { clean & oil inside of barrel, wiped out "as much as possible" (carefully/sparingly, do not to get "oil" anywhere else, not even guide rod “springs”) " 2.) with supplies at hand, heat slide with hair dryer as hot as you can stand , inside & out ,{have glove to hold} immediately apply very sparingly, just enough frog lube to just cover any area. {outside of slide too}(well into the rails etc.) {keep it away from firing pin hole, if your firing pin comes out easily, pull it, clean it , dry it, & use frog lube on it also. Do “NOT “ frog lube the firing pin channel , just clean & dry it. 3.) Let the frog lube sit for a minute or two. Now rub off "EVERY BIT" & I mean "every bit" , you can with the cotton tee shirt squares & Gun "Q" Tips. Always finish with the TEE shirt. leave none behind, (It doesn't work that way, rookie mistake)Try not to touch parts too much with your hands after done with each part.( the outside of slide will look GREAT ,also well protected) 4.) Do this with each part, rails on grip/body, metal guide rods(not spring) outside of mags,(unloaded),{wipe out, mag well w/clean cotton square,alcohol.) guide rod if spring is removable, every where on the "outside" of the barrel only. Leave no hint of frog lube anywhere. Your DONE !! The results are well protected , "slipperier than puppy poop" moving parts that don't get "GUMMED" "UP" , because there's no oil for powder residue to "STICK" to. After you put it back together, & work the slide, fast , then locked back & release it, then fast again (sling shot "without" the mag in to lock it open). You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do it once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hope you really do this according to what I wrote, especially if you have a Sig, or HK , Glock, CZ, etc. because what you thought you had, just got better.
J. Dalton oh ok. i did this alcohol bath on my G2 & didn't have patience either so, went with the heat/hair dryer. i know sometimes heat will warp some things so i was just wondering.
No problem. The Taurus polymer is very strong. I'm shooting it will get it hotter then then hair dryer. It don't take much heat for the frog lube to work. And the longer you use it,the les you have have to use.
I use anti-seize choke tube grease in the rails of all my semiautos including my Slim. Just a literal drop or two. Seems to work fine. No wear or sloppiness after thousands of rounds. I can see the seasoning properties of FL being a plus. Just never tried it. Might have to give it a go. But - I sure do like grease.
Take your pistol out into the cold. 20 degrees or cooler. It will not function. I have been through the FL experience. Great in the heat and a killer of function in the cold. Why don't you want it in the striker channel? It is the only gun product that I have ever seen make a pump shotgun fail to fire. I only use it as a household lubricant now until it's gone. Garbage and could get you killed in the cold. I guess you could throw your nice clean pistol at the bad guy. . . . .
I like your use of the word “seasoning,” like preparing a wok or a cast iron skillet. If people understood Frog Lube as a means of seasoning the metal, maybe they wouldn’t be as fearful of running “dry,” which is why they ultimately leave too much on, leading sticky/gummy residue-relayed issues.
It does require a fair bit of methodical cleaning beforehand, and the added hassle of preheating the gun parts before application, so those with little patience for those extra steps shouldn’t go with Frog Lube. It’s a little pricey, so the “Mobil1 is all I need” guys are poor candidates as well. But the amazing rust inhibiting properties of the stuff and the “green” nature of the product are selling points.
Also, the fact that Yankee Marshall hates it rings as an endorsement in my book.
“The BEST WAY to use FROG LUBE”
You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time.
Hey I'll try to make this short best way for frog lube. NEEDED: hair dryer (NOT a heat gun), frog lube (paste is best), gun cleaning tapered "Q" tip if you have them {they don't leave fibers}, small pieces of “clean cotton” tee shirt, Field strip gun
1.) clean gun, one part at a time, with what ever you think gets it "clean" best, use a nylon bristle brush {lead solvent/oil/etc. (if you have to use a pick now & then for stuck grit, use it){ leave no "oil" when done} use something like gun scrub/brake clean to "finish" that dries clean & quick.( if you use oil, at all, small trigger parts sparingly "only" ! { clean & only oil "inside" of barrel, wipe it out, "as much as possible" (carefully/sparingly, do not to get "oil" anywhere else, not even guide rod “springs” after cleaning them) " {re-inspect for cleanliness}
2.) with supplies at hand, heat slide with hair dryer as hot as you can stand , inside & out ,{have glove to hold} immediately apply (with cotton tee shirt squares or “gun” q-tip swabs) "very sparingly" , just enough frog lube to just cover any area (should turn to liquid from heat). {outside of slide too}(well into the rails etc.) {keep it away from firing pin hole & channel, if your firing pin comes out easily, pull it, clean it , dry it, & use frog lube on it also,wipe it off very well. Do “NOT “ frog lube the firing pin channel , just clean & dry it.
3.) Let the frog lube sit for a minute or two on all the separated & cleaned parts. Now, rub off "EVERY BIT" & I mean "every bit" , you can off , with the cotton tee shirt squares & Gun tapered "Q" Tips. Always finish with the TEE shirt.
4.) Leave none behind, ( some people do, It doesn't work that way, rookie mistake it'll gum-up later when the gun heats up, not good)
5.) Try not to touch parts too much with your hands after done with each part.( then do the outside of slide & barrel, it will look GREAT ,also well protected)
4.) Do this with each part, the slide rails on grip/body, ) the outside of mags,(unloaded),{wipe out, mag well w/clean cotton square,alcohol.{ no frog lube inside there} Metal guide rod if spring is removable, (not the spring itself) every where on the "outside" of the barrel, “only”. Leave no hint of frog lube anywhere !!!!
Your DONE !!
The results are well protected , "slipperier than puppy poop" moving parts that don't get "GUMMED" "UP" , because there's no oil for powder residue to "STICK" to.
After you put it back together, & work the slide, fast , then locked back & release it, then fast again (sling shot "without" the mag in to lock it open).
You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hope you really do this according to what I wrote, especially if you have a Sig, or HK , Glock, CZ, etc. because what you thought you had, just got better.
If you get an all metal gun, mineral spirits works
I appreciate the time and effort you took to make a very informative and helpful video. I wish I could like it more than once.
So the internals that the alcohol touched just evaporates don't they need oil like the frame internals and slide
i don't use F.L. on the internals cause if you can't wipe it off it does dry out. as long as you CAN wipe it off it's ok. But i just put a drop of oil in the guts. F.L. on the "outsides" as a clp.
thankd
J. Dalton, I love ya buddy, but you're doing it way wrong. You can not slop that stuff on with a tooth brush. Here's the correct way & only this way. Liked & Subscribed to you as usual !!
Hey I'll try to make this short best way for frog lube. NEEDED: hair dryer, frog lube gun cleaning tapered "Q" tip if you have them {they don't leave fibers}, small pieces of cotton tee shirt, Field strip gun
1.) clean gun, one part at a time, with what ever you think gets it "clean" best. { leave no "oil" when done} use something like gun scrub to "finish" that dries clean & quick.( if you use oil, at all, small trigger parts sparingly "only" ! { clean & oil inside of barrel, wiped out "as much as possible" (carefully/sparingly, do not to get "oil" anywhere else, not even guide rod “springs”) "
2.) with supplies at hand, heat slide with hair dryer as hot as you can stand , inside & out ,{have glove to hold} immediately apply very sparingly, just enough frog lube to just cover any area. {outside of slide too}(well into the rails etc.) {keep it away from firing pin hole, if your firing pin comes out easily, pull it, clean it , dry it, & use frog lube on it also. Do “NOT “ frog lube the firing pin channel , just clean & dry it.
3.) Let the frog lube sit for a minute or two. Now rub off "EVERY BIT" & I mean "every bit" , you can with the cotton tee shirt squares & Gun "Q" Tips. Always finish with the TEE shirt. leave none behind, (It doesn't work that way, rookie mistake)Try not to touch parts too much with your hands after done with each part.( the outside of slide will look GREAT ,also well protected)
4.) Do this with each part, rails on grip/body, metal guide rods(not spring) outside of mags,(unloaded),{wipe out, mag well w/clean cotton square,alcohol.) guide rod if spring is removable, every where on the "outside" of the barrel only. Leave no hint of frog lube anywhere.
Your DONE !!
The results are well protected , "slipperier than puppy poop" moving parts that don't get "GUMMED" "UP" , because there's no oil for powder residue to "STICK" to.
After you put it back together, & work the slide, fast , then locked back & release it, then fast again (sling shot "without" the mag in to lock it open).
You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do it once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hope you really do this according to what I wrote, especially if you have a Sig, or HK , Glock, CZ, etc. because what you thought you had, just got better.
Is Frog Lube better - or just different than regular gun lube? If better how? Thanks.
J.D., I use F.L. on most of my toys for years BUT, when i used it on revolvers the cylinders must have got some some on the crane and made the cylinders not spin freely. Yes i use their solvent and wiped off F.L. as per they say. it does gum up the insides "IF" ya don't wipe it off. good video.
Great presentation and explanation with common sense.
So what exactly is frog lube?
It is coconut oil with fragrance and stabilizing additives for lower temperatures. Here is a Mass spectrometer reading of Frog Lube against Coconut Oil. www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/FrogLube_v_CoconutOil.jpg
I've been using FL for a few years and I never had a problem. My firearms that have it look dry. I seldom use the solvent FL , just the CLP paste/liquid to clean. Occasionally I'll put a little on a napkin and just wipe down the inside and out. I never had rust or sticking problems. I live in Florida. I know a friend of mine uses it like oil. He has it wet with FL. Some people just can't change over from Petrol products to correctly apply this product I guess.
Can you do the highpoint's the same way with the alcohol and frog lube?
David Aud Yes.. Mine is done the same way.
J. Dalton iu
J. Dalton, I love ya buddy, but you're doing it way wrong. You can not slop that stuff on with a tooth brush. Here's the correct way & only this way. Liked & Subscribed to you as usual !!
Hey I'll try to make this short best way for frog lube. NEEDED: hair dryer, frog lube gun cleaning tapered "Q" tip if you have them {they don't leave fibers}, small pieces of cotton tee shirt, Field strip gun
1.) clean gun, one part at a time, with what ever you think gets it "clean" best. { leave no "oil" when done} use something like gun scrub to "finish" that dries clean & quick.( if you use oil, at all, small trigger parts sparingly "only" ! { clean & oil inside of barrel, wiped out "as much as possible" (carefully/sparingly, do not to get "oil" anywhere else, not even guide rod “springs”) "
2.) with supplies at hand, heat slide with hair dryer as hot as you can stand , inside & out ,{have glove to hold} immediately apply very sparingly, just enough frog lube to just cover any area. {outside of slide too}(well into the rails etc.) {keep it away from firing pin hole, if your firing pin comes out easily, pull it, clean it , dry it, & use frog lube on it also. Do “NOT “ frog lube the firing pin channel , just clean & dry it.
3.) Let the frog lube sit for a minute or two. Now rub off "EVERY BIT" & I mean "every bit" , you can with the cotton tee shirt squares & Gun "Q" Tips. Always finish with the TEE shirt. leave none behind, (It doesn't work that way, rookie mistake)Try not to touch parts too much with your hands after done with each part.( the outside of slide will look GREAT ,also well protected)
4.) Do this with each part, rails on grip/body, metal guide rods(not spring) outside of mags,(unloaded),{wipe out, mag well w/clean cotton square,alcohol.) guide rod if spring is removable, every where on the "outside" of the barrel only. Leave no hint of frog lube anywhere.
Your DONE !!
The results are well protected , "slipperier than puppy poop" moving parts that don't get "GUMMED" "UP" , because there's no oil for powder residue to "STICK" to.
After you put it back together, & work the slide, fast , then locked back & release it, then fast again (sling shot "without" the mag in to lock it open).
You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do it once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hope you really do this according to what I wrote, especially if you have a Sig, or HK , Glock, CZ, etc. because what you thought you had, just got better.
How many times do you think you need to do this???
Do you not use automatic transmission fluid and motor oil anymore? I personally do not like FrogLube if you shooting a lot of rounds fast and your gun gets hot it runs into areas you really don't want it to.
I really enjoy your videos. Very educational. I know I have a goofy youtube name. I was at one time going to do ecigarette vape reviews etc but never got around to it. Thanks for all you do.
Thanks bro i got sum froglube good stuff
This is why I don't buy used guns.
Lol okay baller
Do you still use Froglube?
Everyday
J got a question for ya what's your opinion on bore snakes????? Do you think they work just as well as regular rods and brushes
Johnathen Stommel I use one every time I clean my AR and my AK. I still use a rod with a bore brush every few range trips so that I can get the rifling clean but bore snakes do save time.
travisp11 yeah I just was amazed that the bore snakes work so good I have used rod and brush my whole life so when I was introduced to the snake I just was having a hard time believing that they work but they do
Johnathen Stommel I just started using them a few months ago and I'm very happy with them.
Johnathen Stommel I only use them on my rifles and shotgun's. But yes they work pretty well.
J. Dalton yeah same here but since a rifle is more appropriate for a shtf/wrol situation it's probably wise to make sure that your rifle is in tip top shape that's why I was asking just to ensure that the snakes are a suitable form of cleaning your boar
Hey boss should I take out the striker to clean it and the springs out. Also love this and your brother from another mother Travisp111 channel lots of good info for new gun owners
Awesome video again! If the gun is heavily soaked in oil, would you recommend changing out the alcohol before I start scrubbing?
travisp11 Not really.. I alcohol break's it down.
J. Dalton Cool!
J. Dalton, I love ya buddy, but you're doing it way wrong. You can not slop that stuff on with a tooth brush. Here's the correct way & only this way. Liked & Subscribed to you as usual !!
Hey I'll try to make this short best way for frog lube. NEEDED: hair dryer, frog lube gun cleaning tapered "Q" tip if you have them {they don't leave fibers}, small pieces of cotton tee shirt, Field strip gun
1.) clean gun, one part at a time, with what ever you think gets it "clean" best. { leave no "oil" when done} use something like gun scrub to "finish" that dries clean & quick.( if you use oil, at all, small trigger parts sparingly "only" ! { clean & oil inside of barrel, wiped out "as much as possible" (carefully/sparingly, do not to get "oil" anywhere else, not even guide rod “springs”) "
2.) with supplies at hand, heat slide with hair dryer as hot as you can stand , inside & out ,{have glove to hold} immediately apply very sparingly, just enough frog lube to just cover any area. {outside of slide too}(well into the rails etc.) {keep it away from firing pin hole, if your firing pin comes out easily, pull it, clean it , dry it, & use frog lube on it also. Do “NOT “ frog lube the firing pin channel , just clean & dry it.
3.) Let the frog lube sit for a minute or two. Now rub off "EVERY BIT" & I mean "every bit" , you can with the cotton tee shirt squares & Gun "Q" Tips. Always finish with the TEE shirt. leave none behind, (It doesn't work that way, rookie mistake)Try not to touch parts too much with your hands after done with each part.( the outside of slide will look GREAT ,also well protected)
4.) Do this with each part, rails on grip/body, metal guide rods(not spring) outside of mags,(unloaded),{wipe out, mag well w/clean cotton square,alcohol.) guide rod if spring is removable, every where on the "outside" of the barrel only. Leave no hint of frog lube anywhere.
Your DONE !!
The results are well protected , "slipperier than puppy poop" moving parts that don't get "GUMMED" "UP" , because there's no oil for powder residue to "STICK" to.
After you put it back together, & work the slide, fast , then locked back & release it, then fast again (sling shot "without" the mag in to lock it open).
You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do it once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hope you really do this according to what I wrote, especially if you have a Sig, or HK , Glock, CZ, etc. because what you thought you had, just got better.
J Dalton, do you think the heat maybe warped the frame on the G2 as far as you having the problem that you think the Lakeline spring created?
Futuure Hendrix No I barley heat the frame. Plus none of my other gun have the issue.
J. Dalton oh ok. i did this alcohol bath on my G2 & didn't have patience either so, went with the heat/hair dryer. i know sometimes heat will warp some things so i was just wondering.
J. Dalton thanks for responding 💯💯💯✌
No problem. The Taurus polymer is very strong. I'm shooting it will get it hotter then then hair dryer. It don't take much heat for the frog lube to work. And the longer you use it,the les you have have to use.
J. Dalton oh oh cool then. good advice. thanks 💯
Can I soak my bullets and gasoline and light a match
I am referring to just Glocks of course.!
omg YOU HAVE TO BE KIDDING ME...………………………………………………...
Care to elaborate?
Why not completely disassemble the gun? Parts would be easier to wipe down and it would have a more thorough cleaning.
I use anti-seize choke tube grease in the rails of all my semiautos including my Slim. Just a literal drop or two. Seems to work fine. No wear or sloppiness after thousands of rounds. I can see the seasoning properties of FL being a plus. Just never tried it. Might have to give it a go. But - I sure do like grease.
Frog shit
Take your pistol out into the cold. 20 degrees or cooler. It will not function. I have been through the FL experience. Great in the heat and a killer of function in the cold. Why don't you want it in the striker channel? It is the only gun product that I have ever seen make a pump shotgun fail to fire. I only use it as a household lubricant now until it's gone. Garbage and could get you killed in the cold. I guess you could throw your nice clean pistol at the bad guy. . . . .