03:03
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ค. 2023
- After 2 months of testing, tuning and optimising my new THE 100 v1.1 printer it's finally ready for some speedboats! But how fast it can go? And how long does it take to finish? This and more we will find out in this video.
Links mentioned in the video:
- Road to v1.1 Playlist: • Road to V1.1
- Print Faster - The ultimative Speedprinting Guide: • Print FASTER: The Ulti...
You want to know what happens behind the scenes? Have a look in my development diary on Hackaday
hackaday.io/project/190348-th...
You want to build a THE 100 by your own? At GitHub you find everything you need
github.com/MSzturc/the100
You want to help me cover my running costs? Feel free to leave a subscription at Patreon
/ the100
You want to see more printed parts by THE 100? Follow me on TikTok where I post all the parts I've printed on THE 100
/ matttheprintingnerd
You want to be part of the community and discuss with other printing enthusiasts over THE 100? Join the Discord community
/ discord
#the100 #3dprinting #3dprinter #fast #diy #construction #speedboatrace - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
I'm still shocked you not only managed to come within spitting distance of 247's record but you did it on a (nearly) 100% 3D printer of your own design. 10/10 mate, or should I say 100/100?
Absolutely mind-blowing!
All of this!
Thx man, It was fun, I learned a lot on the way :-)
This is great to see the support this community offers eachother. Kudos to you both!
I would love to see how fast it can make a benchy or anything that looks perfect. It's amazing it can create a benchy of any quality at that speed, but for practical use cases, I would never print anything just to print it fast. I am curious how fast it can go while still maintaining a level of quality that would be great even if it was done on a slow machine.
Have a look at my Road to v1.1 Playlist. It contains multiple videos where I do quality prints at a bit slow speeds
K-Razy!! Well done.
Fastest benchy-resembling 3D printed blob! Nice! :D
so cool! my suggestions that i can clearly see from the video for print quality is putting silicone spacers instead of springs and bolting it to the wall like vzbot does! so sick
"Bambulab X1 has left the chat*
Thats it, after my 2.4 is done im making this one
Excellent!
Amazing!!
Insane. I wonder how the wear and tear scales with print speed.
At such speeds it's bad, but if you drive the printer at it's sweet spot with acceleration of 20-40k and speeds of 250-500mm I would not bother.
Hi Matt, found this from researching the Rook, and you've answered most of the things I wasn't sure about on that machine.
Do you by any chance already have versions of the files for printing the larger parts in one piece on a larger printer?
Asking before I begin a from-scratch design of my own!
I have this crazy idea to print the whole frame in one part on an voron 2.4 350mm, 1 print 2,2kg pla :-D But currently I have no camera that is able to record 4 days to create a nice timelapse. Based on the 1.1 Design it should be pretty easy merge those bigger parts
@@MattThePrintingNerd Cool, I can only encourage this! I run a print bureau and have several machines that were bought as Creality S5 (500x500x500mm) but are extensively modified to be reliable workhorses. No current timelapse photo capability but I could add it via Octoprint or GCODE trigger an SLR. I have some old RepRaps which could donate almost all the parts to make a 100, and a friend for whom I've promised to make a printer...
@@MattThePrintingNerd Cool, I can only encourage this! I run a print bureau and have several machines that were bought as Creality S5 (500x500x500mm) but are extensively modified to be reliable workhorses. No current timelapse photo capability but I could add it via Octoprint or GCODE trigger an SLR. I have some old RepRaps which could donate almost all the parts to make a 100, and a friend for whom I've promised to make a printer...
Hi Matt, hast du mittlerweile eine Fest-Loslager Bauweise eingefügt für die Führungen? So wie ich das beim schnellen durchschauen gesehen habe war das noch nicht eingefügt, und in Foren hattest du beschrieben dass sich die Lager teils verhaken. Hier würde dies Abhilfe schaffen.
Wenn ich das richtig verstehe hat igus sogar ihre loslager so konstruiert, dass keine Änderung der Lochdurchmesser nötig ist
Any% Benchy speed runs were not something I had on my bingo card for 2023...
Any plans of doing an enclosed version of this printer? Or isn't it possible due to the frame materials?
From my side not in the near future. But enclosing it is really easy since the frame is cubic so you could easily extend it. If you plan enclosing it, use ABS or ASA for the frame parts.
You could probaly add some fabric or dust filter mesh to the sides. It should cut down on draft siginifantly with miniscule impact on price and performance.
That's insane! The quality is perfect. hahaha 😂
Well actually I was astonished in the first place. The quality of this Speedboat is dozen times better that my previous 5:15 benchy. Getting a better result at double the speed with 4x the acceleration is a relative good result. Even if the absolut result looks still like a blobby mess ;-)
Unlike the BOM list, those don't look like drylins. Are those LM8UU's or LM8LUU's? Any specific brand?
What is the reason you are not useing Igus bearings on both x and y?
Nice, Do retractions slow down print times that much?
Yes. A good bit.
@@travistucker7317 thx, next time i run one i'll nix them.
You loose about 110 seconds and you will still have a bit of stringing since the forces at this point are so high that when the filament is not ripped apart, or the nozzle is not going to clogg because PA was too strong, chances are high that the extruder gear might skip which results in stringing
@@MattThePrintingNerdYou can definitely do this speed without stringing. But it's always going to be ugly with Bowden. You're exceeding the speed at which speed of sound (propagation of deformation of the tube) becomes relevant and the PA model breaks down.
What the fuck, my mouth is on the floor. Thats crazy, good job!
Thx, it's similar to me... It's like standing in a club and waiting for the drop
Get some extra fans on there for print cooling - The slower the print the more time that's allowed for heat dissipation. With a couple extra blower fans on the hot end, you could improve print quality and get rid of that stringing
This whole project is absolutely mind blowing by the way, I was going to rebuild my Tronxy X5SA but decided to go down the route of building one of these instead. Incredible work!
You want a lightweight extruder head to go fast. More fans = more mass. You can get cooling from a fan not connected to the head.
Looks like it needs better part cooling. I've seen someone use a CPAP with a duct which takes the weight of the fans off the toolhead. It was very effective.
This was printed with retraction / pressure advanced disables so the melting you see at the boat is mostly not related to weak part cooling, besides the chimney, but I plan to experiment abit with a CPAP in the future, have it already lying around
Awesome! Looks like the symptoms of the problem is stringing and wavy lines. The stringing is likely due to insufficient cooling, and possibly too slow of a retraction speed (can't imagine that). I've seen some people switch out filaments that can cool faster or have lower stringing properties. The wavy lines seems like an issue with vibration. Do you have dampeners that could prevent the frame from wobbling? I have a unique solution to that. Instead of placing the printer on a flat surface, mount the top of the printer onto a heavy frame like a table. This reduces the moment generated since the distance of the moving axis are closer to point off rotation.
No the reason for stinging is disabled retraction :-) You can't do proper retraction at those speeds in a bowden setup without slowing the print down. I've described all the necessary steps to be able to print at max speed in the speed printing guide I've recorded.
That is a pretty novel solution, though. Might be interesting to see it in use and some comparative testing!
how fast can it print silk pla tho
Wow. That's ugly, but pretty cool that you could do it so quickly. Congrats!
Everybody says linear rails are better, but you use linear rods, what size it is?
Linear rails are fine at acceleration between 15-35k and start getting really bad at accelerations over 40k caused by shear forces
would u recommend to print this printer or just buy anotherone in terms of quality and price
I've build that printer as my daily driver. I use it primarily for quality prints, but those at high speeds. As far as I know there is no faster printer that is able to print at that quality level. So yes if it's fit on the printbed I print it on my THE 100
Is this a benchy following the speedboat race rules?
Yes
@@MattThePrintingNerd impressive. The last time I saw this printer it was over 25 minutes, getting down to 3 is wild. How much did the whole printer cost to make?
The development was not cheap :-) Took many bad routes that ended at a stop gap
Wouldn't you get better results attaching the printer to the wall or somehow immobilizing it?
I actually wondered if it would be possible to do an upside-down print like with a resin printer. A huge brim might get enough adhesion to stop stuff falling off and it would allow the print head to be lower, thus reducing the center of gravity. That way you have a free-standing pinter without having to anchor it to anything too
I mean that would be a solution, but what's the problem? :-)
The big bottleneck at such high speeds is flow. From my experience with the positron the flow rate of their hotend is worst than those on a normal V6.
Damn!!!!!!
So whats the quality print time? 7 minutes?
Currently it's about 11min, the bottleneck is not linear motion system, rather than the bowden setup. The BMG is at it's limits at 270mm/s when retraction and pressure advanced is enabled. So it's time to go direct drive to printer faster at quality, I aim for 5-6min for a functional benchy at 0.25mm and 7min for one at 0.15mm
👏👏👏
Anyone made a 300 by 300 remix yet?
Even if it's off topic: As far as I know there is no 300x300 mod yet. Also consider that a 300x300 will be way slower since the weight of the gantry will be almost twice as high limiting the y-axis by a bit
@MattThePrintingNerd Regardless, that's what I need and I don't mind if some speed is sacrificed.. It would still be an amazing DIY large printer!
Thank you for your time, and hopefully, my wish is fulfilled! 🤞
hahahhhahahahhaha that was awwwwwwwesome !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!