Very Interesting! Why wouldn’t a designer see that lack in the back shoulder and put that in? Hmm. From the design projects being done online, I haven’t been seeing any adjustments done for the back to curve around to the front of the shoulder. In my learning many decades ago, I thought I was taught to raise the center of the back shoulder even just 3/8”-1 1/4” to accommodate the back curve of shoulder. Hmm 🤔 now I’m going to recheck patterns and reassess my drafted pattern. It’s easy to forget why the shirt or dress looks holes up in the back of a full figured man or woman.
The reason many designers don't do this is that they were: not trained, or improperly trained in patternmaking (I see this at the school I teach at which will remain unnamed), or: don't know enough about the craft to see the fault or care about fixing it. I was trained by the best, and she hammered into my head that fit is the most important. If it doesn't fit the rest is a waste of time and materials.
@@kdknyc yes. I agree. I remember learning it back in the mid 80s when I went to design school. Interesting. Keep teaching. I’m older now and don’t do much in pattern making Anymore. But I still Check all measurements. Now, I am encouraged to really keep it in mind since I do a bit of custom work. Bravo! 🙌
@@jenavasexton1645 True but you need length at the location on the back as well. I would avoid a dartless bodice if there is a full bust-having a dart looks better.
I need more of a correction (2.5 inches) - (high neck and across the shoulder blades) would you suggest splitting the back in two places and adding a shoulder dart OR lengthen it in two places and doing a shoulder dart and keeping it on the fold - what are your thought on how to approach this - thank you in advance for your help
I would put a shoulder dart in the back. So after you do the alteration shown, you can draw a line down from the shoulder where a dart would locate to the cut edge of the paper-- then spread up the additional height. The dart will then spread the amount you need and you will get the additional height. Did this make sense?
If I understand you correctly - make the alteration as described w/ one slice for the 2.5" addition - then place a dart at the shoulder point to bring up the center back in order to cut it on the fold and adjust the neck hole opening - correct?
Thank you, I would love more videos but you've probably got time constaints. You teach and explain things so well.
I do the best I can. I also teach classes on zoom, and that's where I turn most of my video efforts.
Thank you for the information 😎
No wonder the garment did not sit right. Thank you for the explanations. I appreciate it. Now i can wear a proper fit. Yea!
Thank you so much for this information! I usually avoid dolman sleeves for the exact reason you said. Now I’ll give it a try again 😊
Mr. King you are brilliant! But I've known that for years! 💗
Thank you so much! This makes so much sense! 😃
Excellent! Thank you!
Very Interesting! Why wouldn’t a designer see that lack in the back shoulder and put that in? Hmm. From the design projects being done online, I haven’t been seeing any adjustments done for the back to curve around to the front of the shoulder. In my learning many decades ago, I thought I was taught to raise the center of the back shoulder even just 3/8”-1 1/4” to accommodate the back curve of shoulder. Hmm 🤔 now I’m going to recheck patterns and reassess my drafted pattern. It’s easy to forget why the shirt or dress looks holes up in the back of a full figured man or woman.
The reason many designers don't do this is that they were: not trained, or improperly trained in patternmaking (I see this at the school I teach at which will remain unnamed), or: don't know enough about the craft to see the fault or care about fixing it. I was trained by the best, and she hammered into my head that fit is the most important. If it doesn't fit the rest is a waste of time and materials.
@@kdknyc yes. I agree. I remember learning it back in the mid 80s when I went to design school. Interesting. Keep teaching. I’m older now and don’t do much in pattern making
Anymore. But I still
Check all measurements. Now, I am encouraged to really keep it in mind since I do a bit of custom work. Bravo! 🙌
Very nice! How might a large bust change this? In a dartless front bodice I thought the main thing was to add length.
@@jenavasexton1645 True but you need length at the location on the back as well. I would avoid a dartless bodice if there is a full bust-having a dart looks better.
I need more of a correction (2.5 inches) - (high neck and across the shoulder blades) would you suggest splitting the back in two places and adding a shoulder dart OR lengthen it in two places and doing a shoulder dart and keeping it on the fold - what are your thought on how to approach this - thank you in advance for your help
I would put a shoulder dart in the back. So after you do the alteration shown, you can draw a line down from the shoulder where a dart would locate to the cut edge of the paper-- then spread up the additional height. The dart will then spread the amount you need and you will get the additional height. Did this make sense?
If I understand you correctly - make the alteration as described w/ one slice for the 2.5" addition - then place a dart at the shoulder point to bring up the center back in order to cut it on the fold and adjust the neck hole opening - correct?
With the hinge at the shoulder, what was a straight line (neck to cuff) now has an angle. Does that remain, or do you re-straighten the shoulder-line?
You keep the angle. You can smooth off the little point but the top seam has that slight curve now.
Is the same 1 1/4" for all sizes?
It can be more for those with rounded pper back. This number is the minimum amount.