Thank you for posting this! I had the dreaded creaking and brought my bike back to the shop and shared this video. This was exactly the fixed that solved it,
@@D-Ski-Bike-Kayak-Etc-cv5tmI'm happy to hear this helped! This seems to be more common that I thought it would be, but thankfully it's an easy fix 🔧😃👍
Thanks so much for this, my brand new bike was driving me mad with creaking when pedalling and I narrowed it down to the motor cover area and I came across this video and it sorted it out immediately! Great video timing
Hi Dan. Thanks for the video. What is the size of the 2 bolts holding the cover? When removing the crank arm you mentioned it’s a reverse thread but from the direction you turned the bolt it looked like it was normal thread ie anti clockwise to remove it. Was it? I have the Double chain ring 2x Shimano cranks. Do you think it would be easier to remove both cranks? As a side note, I was taught never to use my torque wrenches to unscrew bolts as it can damage the wrenche’s calibration.
Hey @Tchairdjian! 👋 Yep, the cover bolts are 2.5mm allen. You're spot on with your two comments-the thread is indeed normal! Funny thing, in my original script, I had 'counter-clockwise motion' in there, but it somehow got lost in translation 😂. As for the wrench, 💯 agreed. The truth is, this is the longest wrench I’ve got, so I figured I’d make the most of that leverage. To avoid any calibration issues while unscrewing, I use an old trick: I set the wrench tension way higher than needed 😉. Probably not the best practice out there, but hey, it works! 😅 About the crank arms, I generally avoid removing both since they’re meant to be aligned in a specific position on the spindle. There should be marks to guide you, but on my bike, those are almost invisible, so I prefer to only take off one crank arm and save myself the hassle. If you want a little more room to work, you can unscrew the drive-side crank arm without fully removing it. That’ll give you more space while still keeping things in place. Hope this helps! 👍
@@danbee.cycling thanks. 2.5mm hex… very fragile and you’re right they won’t need too much torque. If I ever need to remove the drive crank, maybe I’ll need to mark the position with a felt pen. Also, maybe the drive side is the one with the reverse thread? Or are they both normal?
Have you tested the creo 2 I’m in the market and can’t decide between a trek domane hp+ the newer model with 85nm torque & the newest creo 2 I know the trek is more powerful and longer battery life but I’m having trouble picking a side I love the mastermind tcu for specialized cause I have a turbo levo I plan on of if I get the creo changing the tires for road tires I don’t plan to do much gravel riding on the creo but if I do Ill have the tires for it I hear great things about both more the creo mainly cause of marketing and the trek domane hp+ is discontinued but I tested a 2020 trek domane hp+ an enjoyed it I haven’t got to test the creo yet I plan to do it soon before jumping on the purchase
Hey@@markstjean8622 ! When I was in the market I was actually entertaining two options only: the Domane+ and the Canyon Grail:ON. Turns out the Creo 2 entry level and Grail:ON were not that far away in terms of price, but I was privileging the full power motor of the Grail at the expense of weight. But when I had the chance to get the Domane+ at a good price I just changed my mind and went for the lightest option . The Creo 2 is a great bike for sure (especially the entry level models which IMHO are much better than Domane+ entry level for a similar price). I guess is a matter of which model you like most. I don't remember the D+ HQ range extender options to compare, but I have the feeling the newer Domane model is a better option going forward in terms of finding parts and software updates of the motor. I hope this helps!
Thank you for posting this! I had the dreaded creaking and brought my bike back to the shop and shared this video. This was exactly the fixed that solved it,
@@D-Ski-Bike-Kayak-Etc-cv5tmI'm happy to hear this helped! This seems to be more common that I thought it would be, but thankfully it's an easy fix 🔧😃👍
Thanks so much for this, my brand new bike was driving me mad with creaking when pedalling and I narrowed it down to the motor cover area and I came across this video and it sorted it out immediately! Great video timing
Hey @danbarnard2963! I'm glad to hear the video was helpful. Ride On!
👍
Hi Dan. Thanks for the video.
What is the size of the 2 bolts holding the cover?
When removing the crank arm you mentioned it’s a reverse thread but from the direction you turned the bolt it looked like it was normal thread ie anti clockwise to remove it. Was it?
I have the Double chain ring 2x Shimano cranks. Do you think it would be easier to remove both cranks?
As a side note, I was taught never to use my torque wrenches to unscrew bolts as it can damage the wrenche’s calibration.
Hey @Tchairdjian! 👋 Yep, the cover bolts are 2.5mm allen. You're spot on with your two comments-the thread is indeed normal! Funny thing, in my original script, I had 'counter-clockwise motion' in there, but it somehow got lost in translation 😂.
As for the wrench, 💯 agreed. The truth is, this is the longest wrench I’ve got, so I figured I’d make the most of that leverage. To avoid any calibration issues while unscrewing, I use an old trick: I set the wrench tension way higher than needed 😉. Probably not the best practice out there, but hey, it works! 😅
About the crank arms, I generally avoid removing both since they’re meant to be aligned in a specific position on the spindle. There should be marks to guide you, but on my bike, those are almost invisible, so I prefer to only take off one crank arm and save myself the hassle.
If you want a little more room to work, you can unscrew the drive-side crank arm without fully removing it. That’ll give you more space while still keeping things in place.
Hope this helps! 👍
@@danbee.cycling thanks. 2.5mm hex… very fragile and you’re right they won’t need too much torque. If I ever need to remove the drive crank, maybe I’ll need to mark the position with a felt pen. Also, maybe the drive side is the one with the reverse thread? Or are they both normal?
@@Tchairdjian both normal! 👍👍
Have you tested the creo 2 I’m in the market and can’t decide between a trek domane hp+ the newer model with 85nm torque & the newest creo 2 I know the trek is more powerful and longer battery life but I’m having trouble picking a side I love the mastermind tcu for specialized cause I have a turbo levo I plan on of if I get the creo changing the tires for road tires I don’t plan to do much gravel riding on the creo but if I do Ill have the tires for it I hear great things about both more the creo mainly cause of marketing and the trek domane hp+ is discontinued but I tested a 2020 trek domane hp+ an enjoyed it I haven’t got to test the creo yet I plan to do it soon before jumping on the purchase
Hey@@markstjean8622 ! When I was in the market I was actually entertaining two options only: the Domane+ and the Canyon Grail:ON. Turns out the Creo 2 entry level and Grail:ON were not that far away in terms of price, but I was privileging the full power motor of the Grail at the expense of weight. But when I had the chance to get the Domane+ at a good price I just changed my mind and went for the lightest option . The Creo 2 is a great bike for sure (especially the entry level models which IMHO are much better than Domane+ entry level for a similar price). I guess is a matter of which model you like most. I don't remember the D+ HQ range extender options to compare, but I have the feeling the newer Domane model is a better option going forward in terms of finding parts and software updates of the motor. I hope this helps!