Would love to take one of your workshops soon. Can’t wait to see your print at my friend Nick Devlin’s place here in Canada! Your videos are always wonderful.
Both processes can produce both high contrast and low contrast based on the exposures. In both cases the plates you are showing negatives that were under exposed and pushed development. All of the negatives you show are very high contrast. They can be made with the exact same subtle tones as store bought film. It’s a matter of choice how you make them.
Not true. The main cause is that the emulsion for silver-gelatine is meant to be for printing paper not film negative that's why in very contrast light you can not have full tonality like you would have on film negative.
To minimize UV outside: do your photographs in the morning or evening - there is also much less UV in the months of year thar has the letter R in it (the further North the lesser) To maximize just do the opposite and you will get shorter exp-time for your dry collodion
I really like dry plates, and make my own. Although my own have never been that dense yet (as in, max. black isn't nearly as dense), might need to change the silver concentration in the emulsion (more silver per emulsion volume -> higher max density). Or make a thicker coating, that should work too.
I do my own dry gelatine plates in two bath developer. First bath just sodium sulphate and metol as soon as highlights appear shift it to borax (or carbonate) bath or equivalent. Not ideal but much better contrast.
@@RogerHyam Haha, sorry for the necropost! Altough sodium sulfate is also usde in so calles "tropical" developers, these work at high temperatures and the sulfates role is to reduce osmotic swelling of the gelatin
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography my uncle has a series 1. my dad worked on them for years full chassis changes everything he is what you are to a photograph a master we in Scotland.
All you need to do is expose more. Exposure gives you visual information … development gives you density. If you underexpose there will be no shadow information. If you then push the development … you get high contrast since the shadow areas don’t exist. If you give the plates more exposure to pich up the shadow detail … and develop less … you subdue contrast. This is basic photography and not related specific to collodion or handmade gelatin plates.
Would love to take one of your workshops soon. Can’t wait to see your print at my friend Nick Devlin’s place here in Canada! Your videos are always wonderful.
Was wondering when you would get zebra dry plates. Love yours and lost light arts photography and videos!
Great video! I was just wishing that there was a comparison between collodion and gelatin
What great work! I love what you are doing, keeping a great art form alive and teaching others.
good shadow detail on the dry Collodian glass. maybe a filter for the Zebra plate to reduce contrast
Top shit blog crowns your week!
Both processes can produce both high contrast and low contrast based on the exposures. In both cases the plates you are showing negatives that were under exposed and pushed development. All of the negatives you show are very high contrast. They can be made with the exact same subtle tones as store bought film. It’s a matter of choice how you make them.
Not true. The main cause is that the emulsion for silver-gelatine is meant to be for printing paper not film negative that's why in very contrast light you can not have full tonality like you would have on film negative.
To minimize UV outside: do your photographs in the morning or evening - there is also much less UV in the months of year thar has the letter R in it (the further North the lesser)
To maximize just do the opposite and you will get shorter exp-time for your dry collodion
I really like dry plates, and make my own. Although my own have never been that dense yet (as in, max. black isn't nearly as dense), might need to change the silver concentration in the emulsion (more silver per emulsion volume -> higher max density). Or make a thicker coating, that should work too.
Im ❤ the pictures of car. 😊
Very interesting. I got a 5x7 camera (ca 1906/1915) with glass plate holders. I will order soon at Zebra.
I do my own dry gelatine plates in two bath developer. First bath just sodium sulphate and metol as soon as highlights appear shift it to borax (or carbonate) bath or equivalent. Not ideal but much better contrast.
You mean sodium sulphite I guess?
@@codysergeant1486 definitely 😁
@@RogerHyam Haha, sorry for the necropost! Altough sodium sulfate is also usde in so calles "tropical" developers, these work at high temperatures and the sulfates role is to reduce osmotic swelling of the gelatin
@@codysergeant1486 I just have fat fingers.
You got a galvanised chassis on that classic
unfortunately not, it's original from 1972
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography my uncle has a series 1. my dad worked on them for years full chassis changes everything he is what you are to a photograph a master we in Scotland.
What happens if you use a UV filter, do you reduce contrast?
For sure, but not the ordinary UV filter that are in use today. Probably red filter would make it much better.
well the plates aren't red (or even green) sensitive at all, so I think that you shouldn't get an image at all with a red filter
All you need to do is expose more. Exposure gives you visual information … development gives you density. If you underexpose there will be no shadow information. If you then push the development … you get high contrast since the shadow areas don’t exist. If you give the plates more exposure to pich up the shadow detail … and develop less … you subdue contrast. This is basic photography and not related specific to collodion or handmade gelatin plates.