I have my first community darkroom appointment Friday. I've made prints before, but never dodged and burned, and I got a copy of The Print from the library but seeing it done helps put a visual to the words! Thank you!
great tutorial, love the tips, but another tip, if you use a 'foot switch' be careful, as they may work differently, for example, my Ilford Ilfospeed Multigrade 500 uses an IC controller, so it uses the foot pedal as a "burn" switch too, aka if you hit it wrong, it goes into 'burn' mode, and after zero, it doesn't shut off, it stays on, and counts up, with a beeper, if set on, to aid in burn exposure; the CORRECT way to use this one, is to use the pedal as an "ON" and let the timer do its thing {if you don't intend to burn the print, that is}.
Great point. Even the two foot switches I have feel very different when using and can throw me off... But the reasons you mention is the main reason I prefer to stay as non automated as I can at the printing exposure stage!
I think we really only need to get over the fact that we will have to wreck a few prints learning and that it is part of the process. That frees you to jump in and experiment!
Great vid! Question, do you just drop your NDs on top of/in to the same filter slot as your multi grades? And, do you venture down to filter #5 for adding contrast?
@@jeta1383 yes in the Bessler There is a slot above the negative stage. I now also have a piece of heat absorbing glass in the same spot. And yes if needed I will use a 5 filter without hesitation if it gets me the print I am after 👍
Great video! I have a question though. When you're burning with the hole in the cardboard (aprox 12.30min), you're holding it a fair distance away from the paper (I would say about 15cm). On the projected image it looks like you're burning the right spots, but keeping in mind the print is 15cm under, and a light projected from the top, wouldn't that create a bigger burnt area than your desired one? Would it be better to place it as close to the paper as possible? Thanks!
It really depends on the print. But the further away the softer the edge of light so easier to blend, but yes bigger area overall. I usually try to start about half way between paper and enlarger with split grade using the softest filter. When burning the highlights with a soft filter you have a little leeway as it will not print hard blacks (or it will take a lot to) therefore you have more forgiveness. All that being said getting closer might work better for some things.
If you want to test. The easiest way I have found is to test highlights. Every paper has a speed point / iso - I believe it is based off a midtone. I like to test for a highlight area (this is done with just filtration no neg. Find an exposure for just a slight density a bright texture highlight. Do this for each filter as there will be a slight deviation on the exposure. Do this with both RC and Fiber base and you will have a basis for translating from one to the other. You will need to adjust contrast (not always) and can run tests for that as well but it takes more time. Most papers are consistent enough that this will hold up. If things start getting off you can retest by lot numbers /batches but I use the same tests over and over as you will still need to make some adjustments but it will get you real close right off the bat. Hope that makes sense
Guess it depends on what you are doing. I have always found it hard to see the dark batches of film on black which is what I am often burning. But if black works it works 👍
Using your original test strip to decide on the amount to burn the sky is seems so obvious now you've said it, but it never occurred to me!
That is also why it can. E valuable to make a full sheet . It will give you more information
This is so great! Thank you so much for what you’ve been doing. The recent beginner tutorials have been a massive help, especially.
So great to hear, thanks for watching!
Great tutorial. Now my wife will complain that I'm spending too much time in the darkroom 🤣
it's inevitable 🤣.... Print her a lovely picture!
Terrific video. I like how you use white card stock for burning so you can see the negative as you’re burning. I need to get some of that.
Hahahahahahaha!!!
This is really helpful to see your process of dodging and burning. Looking forward to trying out some new techniques!
Cool Sarah, super jealous of that 8x10 set you have... looks really nice!!!
I have my first community darkroom appointment Friday. I've made prints before, but never dodged and burned, and I got a copy of The Print from the library but seeing it done helps put a visual to the words! Thank you!
Your welcome! Have fun and do experiment!
Thanks, this was helpful and motivated me to bump up my darkroom techniques.
Great to hear !!!
Get it good on film, make it better on paper.
Makes a lot of sense. 👍🏻
Yes!!!
definitely one of the most helpful videos I've seen for this topic, thank you!
Great to hear!
This is GOLD. Thank you. And I haven't printed in decades.
Well done, really.
Thank you, appreciate the feedback!
@@Distphoto My pleasure. I hope you are inspiring a new crop!
great tutorial, love the tips, but another tip, if you use a 'foot switch' be careful, as they may work differently, for example, my Ilford Ilfospeed Multigrade 500 uses an IC controller, so it uses the foot pedal as a "burn" switch too, aka if you hit it wrong, it goes into 'burn' mode, and after zero, it doesn't shut off, it stays on, and counts up, with a beeper, if set on, to aid in burn exposure; the CORRECT way to use this one, is to use the pedal as an "ON" and let the timer do its thing {if you don't intend to burn the print, that is}.
Great point. Even the two foot switches I have feel very different when using and can throw me off... But the reasons you mention is the main reason I prefer to stay as non automated as I can at the printing exposure stage!
Great explanation and example of dodging and burning techniques for beginners as well as experienced darkroom people! Always love your videos!
Thanks Steve, great to hear!!!
How do you decide which contrast filter to use?
Such a great video full of helpful information! I hope I can someday make some prints in the darkroom.
I hope so too! Thanks!
Very helpful video! I was a bit intimidated with dodging and burning in the darkroom before watching this lol
I think we really only need to get over the fact that we will have to wreck a few prints learning and that it is part of the process. That frees you to jump in and experiment!
@@Distphoto True. It’s especially liberating knowing only I’ll see my mistakes haha
Very helpful, thank you for posting.
Your welcome!
Thank you Matthew. Great explanation!
Your welcome!
Thanks!
Thank you Steve!
Great vid! Question, do you just drop your NDs on top of/in to the same filter slot as your multi grades?
And, do you venture down to filter #5 for adding contrast?
@@jeta1383 yes in the Bessler There is a slot above the negative stage. I now also have a piece of heat absorbing glass in the same spot. And yes if needed I will use a 5 filter without hesitation if it gets me the print I am after 👍
Great video! I have a question though. When you're burning with the hole in the cardboard (aprox 12.30min), you're holding it a fair distance away from the paper (I would say about 15cm). On the projected image it looks like you're burning the right spots, but keeping in mind the print is 15cm under, and a light projected from the top, wouldn't that create a bigger burnt area than your desired one? Would it be better to place it as close to the paper as possible? Thanks!
It really depends on the print. But the further away the softer the edge of light so easier to blend, but yes bigger area overall. I usually try to start about half way between paper and enlarger with split grade using the softest filter. When burning the highlights with a soft filter you have a little leeway as it will not print hard blacks (or it will take a lot to) therefore you have more forgiveness. All that being said getting closer might work better for some things.
How do you go from rc to fb? Do you test exposure differences between paper when you start a box, or just redo test strips on fiber?
Thanks
If you want to test. The easiest way I have found is to test highlights. Every paper has a speed point / iso - I believe it is based off a midtone. I like to test for a highlight area (this is done with just filtration no neg. Find an exposure for just a slight density a bright texture highlight. Do this for each filter as there will be a slight deviation on the exposure. Do this with both RC and Fiber base and you will have a basis for translating from one to the other. You will need to adjust contrast (not always) and can run tests for that as well but it takes more time. Most papers are consistent enough that this will hold up. If things start getting off you can retest by lot numbers /batches but I use the same tests over and over as you will still need to make some adjustments but it will get you real close right off the bat. Hope that makes sense
@@Distphoto Thank you very much for the explanation. Makes sense to me.
I perfer to use a black paper because it is easier to see a nega image on the balck paper.
Guess it depends on what you are doing. I have always found it hard to see the dark batches of film on black which is what I am often burning. But if black works it works 👍
I use cards with different size holes I just can’t tweak my hands like I see some of the old masters…
Ocasionally I use my hands but for basic stuff. I am with you on that!
Far out!
🤟🏼🤟🏼🤟🏼