Very very,helpful. Your tutorials are spot on,with the demonstration and actually doing the work step by step. Makes everything easier to understand and easy to make any adjustments needed, in the performing of the work hands on step by step. Are you a teacher or instructor at your day job,cause you are awesome with your instructions!!🤙
This video shows the correct way to set up shocks etc, but I been crawling & comping for years, unfortunately all Axial shocks are junk, doesn't matter how great you rebuild them add all the green slime you want they will leak regardless what you do, my suggestion & 10s of Thousands online to avoid the frustration just replace them with some decent shocks as soon as you buy it.... none the less this is a very well informed video on shocks & suspension set up..
Watched your video, thanks for the tutorial! Also, my wife said use a plastic syringe to draw/ administer the shock oil... I tried it (she was hawking) and it worked great, zero bubbles
By Compressing the back end without flexing causes the top control arms to hit the back battery tray or cross frame support and because of that causes the shocks not to fully compress without flexing on my truck. My shocks are set to stock mounting the top front hole.
As obvious as it seems to me now, I was completely disregarding the temperature aspect of the shock oil. I have a mechanical engineering degree, but I'm new to RC and I was mindlessly following other TH-cam advise for shock oil weight on my brand new SCX10-3 kit. I initially thought their suggestion felt way to thick and went down 10 wt, but it's still not quite enough. I'm slapping myself in the head now because I'm in Colorado in the winter and I think they're in SoCal. I thank you for stopping my mind fart. Greatly appreciated.
temperature has no effect on silicone based oil. only oil affected by temperature is petroleum based oil such as car engine oil etc. so don't worry about air temp with silicone based shock oil silicone doesn't thicken & thin in extreme cold or extreme heat.. just decide how much dampening you want & choose based on that..., 👍🏻
I just stumbled on to this. Very informative. I don't see links to your other upgrades. Be nice to have those easily accessable in the video info section instead of having to go to your home page, i.e., keeps it quick & easy. Just a suggestion. Thanks!
Hi, I am from Chile, Thank you a lot for the information, I have an Axial SCX10 III, Jeep Rubicon, I have had some issues with the DIG servo, have you any tutorial on how to set up it
Sorry, I do not. But you need to make sure the sero is at center position when dig is disengaged, adjust your trim on that servo until your endpoints are correct or you will burn up that little servo like thousands of other people have done. From the factory the dig servo is not set correctly.
Would you do it the same way without a bleeder screw.I have redcat gen 8 and I watched some other videos but they didn't teach to press the shock all the way down then put cap on.i was filling it and dumping waiting put cap on test push back rinse repeat,your way much better and makes sense.
kinda, Usually I'll take the top cap off, then drain/fill. let all the bubbles come up and out, then top it off and put the cap back on with no bleed screw.
well ive learned a whole lot sense i sent that last message,not so much of a noob now.Got the scx III jeep gladiator and the redcat gen 8 axe edition.Im hooked bad.The SCX III manual shows red shock springs in front and green springs in back.took my shocks off the other day to refill and noticed the spring were reversed it makes sense ,but i put them back the way the maunal says but now i noticed rubbing from fromt tire on something.would you put heavier in front and the red in back seem i had no rubbing at all until i followed the maunual.good idea with the 50 weight they say there filled with 35 but wow they barley hold the body up.So i think im going to grab springs ,where did you get by chance.and think im going to try 50 wieght that also makes sense.Thank you for getting me started on my RC journey a few months ago.
Brother I need your help,I'm trying to do my gen8 and my axial yeti jr shocks.for some reason my plunger inside shock does not go all the way to top so I can't fill it to top and let alittle spill out.i watched a video from axial about changing shock oil and there plunger goes to the top also.can you please help so I can figure this out once and for all,I understand you ,you are very precise and on target you should be a teacher
Nice vid, but don't worry synthetic oil unlike conventional petroleum based oil isn't affected by temperature in the tiny teeny amount being used in rc shocks. you won't see any changes in extreme cold or extreme heat up to 500 degrees plus before you see it affected by heat 🔥. so pick whatever wt you want & don't worry about temperature especially when using such a minimal amount... 👍🏻
It's not about the oil getting hot or cold. It's about to thick of oil not being able to flow freely thru the piston holes. To thick of oil in to cold of temps wonn't flow good and create rebound damping
Right, what I'm saying is that silicone oil doesn't get thick or thin upon temp change it stays consistent regardless of ambient temps. silicone works differently than traditional oil. unless you where in extreme 50 below zero temps daily you wldnt notice a difference & same goes for extreme heat 👍🏻 PS changing the location of your springs to a different shock hole has no affect on where the wheel sits between the wheel well. only thing that changes the location of the wheels forward or back are the links...
Newbie here. Longer shocks have less compression length and will raise the rig? So in order to get the tire to compress all the way into fender well I would need to raise the top mount. I want more flex and droop but don’t want to raise the rig. Am I thinking right?
Longer shocks give you more travel and more compression as well as more rebound. If the adjustment nut for compression is loose against the spring, then the tire will go up into the fender. You can also do this with a lesser spring rate(not as stiff). But if you go with a heavier spring rate or tighten up the adjustment nut, then the vehicle will rise and come out of the fender well. The 90mm shocks with a medium spring rate and the adjustment nut in the middle is a great place to start. Then dial it in for what you want. I also stretched out the links with longer rod ends for the best result.😎👍🤙
I just purchased the exact Gladiator. Put a battery in it for the first time yesterday. When driving it seems that the driver rear and passenger front shocks are not dampening or the springs are wrong. The body seems to rock back and forth to those two corners. During hard acceleration the it will squat to the left rear corner and dive down on the right front under braking and reverse. A hard right turn in reverse will actually let the tire grab the fender flare and keep the front end down. Seems that the weight transfer going into reverse allows that right front to squat real bad. Did your truck behave in this manner out of the box?
@@upgradedrc3697 I pulled the shocks like you suggested and they were both low on shock oil. I filled them like you showed and the performance is now night and day different. Thanks so much for your assistance!
Great video! Very informative and easily understandable. Thank you very much! Could you tell me how I’ll notice that I need to change the diff oil and/or the springs to make my scaler perform better? Greetings from Germany 😉
The sxc10iii doesn't have diff fluid. It is greased. Should be cleaned and regreased at least once a year, but it depends on how much you crawl and how dirty it gets. Mud and water will break down grease faster. Which springs are you referring to?
You should change your shock oil when the temperatures are changing more than 40 degrees, or if you need stiffer oil or lighter oil. Or atleast once a year cause it does get dirty. If it's leaking oil, then do it more often. The springs are up to you and wherevyou crawl and how extreme you do it. And how heavy your car is.
I wonder why some shocks the plunger goes all way to top on my gen8 and my yeti jr the plunger goes about quarter to half inch to top so it's hard to fill to top and let some drain off,how would I do shocks then I'm so confused
I not familiar with gen8 shocks, but their all pretty much the same. Your Piston(plunger) should be all the way at the bottom when your filling it. Then fill it to almost the top, cycle the piston a couple of times, then let it set to get rid of the air bubbles for a couple of minutes, Then put your cap on and bleed them if they have bleeder screws. Some shocks don't have bleeder screws. If you have more problems. Join UPgraded RC Bashers Crashers and Crawlers (my Group), Then you can send a pic or video and i can see whats going on and other members have gen8 cars and maybe they will answer your questions as well. Hope this helps.
@@upgradedrc3697 ya mine don't have bleeder screws.the main prob I'm having is I can't get either set of shocks to overflow at all like you wrap the napkin and fill to top it off and cycle it a couple times then make sure piston is all the way up and put cap on.when done I always have to much in and have to pour alittle out due to it kicking back when I push it in.hope this made sense.i really want to get these shocks done and go play lol 55 and will never stop playing
@@upgradedrc3697 totally understand now thank you so much for taking your time,And I got to say your one of the best out there very precise and plain speaking thank you just got the axial SCX III JT gladiator it will be my go to vehicle can't wait to see all the videos.RC for life.
How did you adjust front end, when you put larger shocks on vehicle with panhard bar it pulls axle to drivers side of vehicle. Basically what size panhard bar did you use and where did you find one that fits?
I adjusted the panhard bar out 2 turns on each end. There is enough thread and adj the steering link out a turn or 2 depending on what you need. I am looking for an adjustable track bar, but can"t find one yet. I might have to make my own lol!
This is an excellent video. Best demonstration of shock oil replacement and best explanation of sag and preload I've ever heard.
Awesome job explaining the shocks. Keep the great informative videos coming. Looking forward to the next one
I would have to say. This is one of the best shock videos I've seen.
Very detailed shock tutorial! Thanks
Best vid ive seen on tuning shocks. Good job.
Very detailed and informative. Well done and thank you for the knowledge.
Excellent information! Thanks 😊
Very informative, looks like I've got some shock work to do. Thanks!
I second the comment - best vid on shocks/suspension I've seen - Great work - keep it up!
Agreed
VERY helpful. Thank you!
Very very,helpful. Your tutorials are spot on,with the demonstration and actually doing the work step by step. Makes everything easier to understand and easy to make any adjustments needed, in the performing of the work hands on step by step. Are you a teacher or instructor at your day job,cause you are awesome with your instructions!!🤙
Thanks, I really appreciate it!
Good stuff thanks for this!
Great video man. I'm new to the RC scene and am looking to upgrade out of the stock shocks on my Bronco so I've learned a ton. Thanks for the info
this helps so much pls continue (loving it)
This video shows the correct way to set up shocks etc, but I been crawling & comping for years, unfortunately all Axial shocks are junk, doesn't matter how great you rebuild them add all the green slime you want they will leak regardless what you do, my suggestion & 10s of Thousands online to avoid the frustration just replace them with some decent shocks as soon as you buy it.... none the less this is a very well informed video on shocks & suspension set up..
I agree!
Great vid man 👍
Outstanding
Excellent video friend! hug from Brazil!
Watched your video, thanks for the tutorial! Also, my wife said use a plastic syringe to draw/ administer the shock oil... I tried it (she was hawking) and it worked great, zero bubbles
Yes, that works great!😎🤙👍
Great info for this newb! Subscribed!!
Awesome vid bro :)
Nice video bro.
By Compressing the back end without flexing causes the top control arms to hit the back battery tray or cross frame support and because of that causes the shocks not to fully compress without flexing on my truck. My shocks are set to stock mounting the top front hole.
As obvious as it seems to me now, I was completely disregarding the temperature aspect of the shock oil. I have a mechanical engineering degree, but I'm new to RC and I was mindlessly following other TH-cam advise for shock oil weight on my brand new SCX10-3 kit. I initially thought their suggestion felt way to thick and went down 10 wt, but it's still not quite enough. I'm slapping myself in the head now because I'm in Colorado in the winter and I think they're in SoCal. I thank you for stopping my mind fart. Greatly appreciated.
temperature has no effect on silicone based oil. only oil affected by temperature is petroleum based oil such as car engine oil etc. so don't worry about air temp with silicone based shock oil silicone doesn't thicken & thin in extreme cold or extreme heat.. just decide how much dampening you want & choose based on that..., 👍🏻
Rtr . Ready to replace.
I just stumbled on to this. Very informative. I don't see links to your other upgrades. Be nice to have those easily accessable in the video info section instead of having to go to your home page, i.e., keeps it quick & easy. Just a suggestion. Thanks!
Understood thanks for letting me know. Here is a link to my channel and all the upgrades
th-cam.com/channels/94h-8M8jK1h-4c9FdqQ6Ww.html
And I just started a group in Facebook that is going to show more upgrades. here is that link
facebook.com/groups/2812810532319871
Hi, I am from Chile, Thank you a lot for the information, I have an Axial SCX10 III, Jeep Rubicon, I have had some issues with the DIG servo, have you any tutorial on how to set up it
Sorry, I do not. But you need to make sure the sero is at center position when dig is disengaged, adjust your trim on that servo until your endpoints are correct or you will burn up that little servo like thousands of other people have done. From the factory the dig servo is not set correctly.
Would you do it the same way without a bleeder screw.I have redcat gen 8 and I watched some other videos but they didn't teach to press the shock all the way down then put cap on.i was filling it and dumping waiting put cap on test push back rinse repeat,your way much better and makes sense.
kinda, Usually I'll take the top cap off, then drain/fill. let all the bubbles come up and out, then top it off and put the cap back on with no bleed screw.
well ive learned a whole lot sense i sent that last message,not so much of a noob now.Got the scx III jeep gladiator and the redcat gen 8 axe edition.Im hooked bad.The SCX III manual shows red shock springs in front and green springs in back.took my shocks off the other day to refill and noticed the spring were reversed it makes sense ,but i put them back the way the maunal says but now i noticed rubbing from fromt tire on something.would you put heavier in front and the red in back seem i had no rubbing at all until i followed the maunual.good idea with the 50 weight they say there filled with 35 but wow they barley hold the body up.So i think im going to grab springs ,where did you get by chance.and think im going to try 50 wieght that also makes sense.Thank you for getting me started on my RC journey a few months ago.
I got my mine at the hobby shop. But Amazon should have them also
Brother I need your help,I'm trying to do my gen8 and my axial yeti jr shocks.for some reason my plunger inside shock does not go all the way to top so I can't fill it to top and let alittle spill out.i watched a video from axial about changing shock oil and there plunger goes to the top also.can you please help so I can figure this out once and for all,I understand you ,you are very precise and on target you should be a teacher
Nice vid, but don't worry synthetic oil unlike conventional petroleum based oil isn't affected by temperature in the tiny teeny amount being used in rc shocks. you won't see any changes in extreme cold or extreme heat up to 500 degrees plus before you see it affected by heat 🔥. so pick whatever wt you want & don't worry about temperature especially when using such a minimal amount... 👍🏻
It's not about the oil getting hot or cold. It's about to thick of oil not being able to flow freely thru the piston holes. To thick of oil in to cold of temps wonn't flow good and create rebound damping
Right, what I'm saying is that silicone oil doesn't get thick or thin upon temp change it stays consistent regardless of ambient temps. silicone works differently than traditional oil. unless you where in extreme 50 below zero temps daily you wldnt notice a difference & same goes for extreme heat 👍🏻
PS changing the location of your springs to a different shock hole has no affect on where the wheel sits between the wheel well. only thing that changes the location of the wheels forward or back are the links...
Newbie here.
Longer shocks have less compression length and will raise the rig?
So in order to get the tire to compress all the way into fender well I would need to raise the top mount.
I want more flex and droop but don’t want to raise the rig.
Am I thinking right?
Longer shocks give you more travel and more compression as well as more rebound. If the adjustment nut for compression is loose against the spring, then the tire will go up into the fender. You can also do this with a lesser spring rate(not as stiff). But if you go with a heavier spring rate or tighten up the adjustment nut, then the vehicle will rise and come out of the fender well. The 90mm shocks with a medium spring rate and the adjustment nut in the middle is a great place to start. Then dial it in for what you want. I also stretched out the links with longer rod ends for the best result.😎👍🤙
The truck I bought had green springs on the front and red on the rear. Right out of the box.
I thought it sat oddly. Rear is seriously low
I just purchased the exact Gladiator. Put a battery in it for the first time yesterday. When driving it seems that the driver rear and passenger front shocks are not dampening or the springs are wrong. The body seems to rock back and forth to those two corners. During hard acceleration the it will squat to the left rear corner and dive down on the right front under braking and reverse. A hard right turn in reverse will actually let the tire grab the fender flare and keep the front end down. Seems that the weight transfer going into reverse allows that right front to squat real bad. Did your truck behave in this manner out of the box?
Yes, it needs a lot of help. Tear your shocks out and rebuild them and fix all your little problems.
Everything also needs to be adjusted
It's also only a 3 link in the front. So it can never ne right with stock components.
@@upgradedrc3697 I pulled the shocks like you suggested and they were both low on shock oil. I filled them like you showed and the performance is now night and day different. Thanks so much for your assistance!
Do you have a part number for those yellow springs
Ya, Axial part # AX1233018 yellow extra firm springs set of 2 per pac.
Hi Upgraded, Can you suggest where to go for the #AX1233018 yellow extra firm springs? Thanks!
I got mine from the local hobby shop. But, they are made by axial. Amain hobbies should have them.
I enjoyed a great video let's be friends.
우리 친구 해요!!!!
😁😁😁
Great video! Very informative and easily understandable. Thank you very much!
Could you tell me how I’ll notice that I need to change the diff oil and/or the springs to make my scaler perform better?
Greetings from Germany 😉
The sxc10iii doesn't have diff fluid. It is greased. Should be cleaned and regreased at least once a year, but it depends on how much you crawl and how dirty it gets. Mud and water will break down grease faster. Which springs are you referring to?
But, i'll be doing a video on diff covers and cleaning and greasing soon.
You should change your shock oil when the temperatures are changing more than 40 degrees, or if you need stiffer oil or lighter oil. Or atleast once a year cause it does get dirty. If it's leaking oil, then do it more often. The springs are up to you and wherevyou crawl and how extreme you do it. And how heavy your car is.
My new wraith ran 10 batteries, all fluid leaked out. Axial shocks are garbage. Filled the shocks, ran few batteries and the fluid leaked out again.
I totally agree. I haven't found shocks yet that don't leak . Thinking about air.
I wonder why some shocks the plunger goes all way to top on my gen8 and my yeti jr the plunger goes about quarter to half inch to top so it's hard to fill to top and let some drain off,how would I do shocks then I'm so confused
I not familiar with gen8 shocks, but their all pretty much the same. Your Piston(plunger) should be all the way at the bottom when your filling it. Then fill it to almost the top, cycle the piston a couple of times, then let it set to get rid of the air bubbles for a couple of minutes, Then put your cap on and bleed them if they have bleeder screws. Some shocks don't have bleeder screws. If you have more problems. Join UPgraded RC Bashers Crashers and Crawlers (my Group), Then you can send a pic or video and i can see whats going on and other members have gen8 cars and maybe they will answer your questions as well. Hope this helps.
Here is the Link
facebook.com/groups/2812810532319871
@@upgradedrc3697 ya mine don't have bleeder screws.the main prob I'm having is I can't get either set of shocks to overflow at all like you wrap the napkin and fill to top it off and cycle it a couple times then make sure piston is all the way up and put cap on.when done I always have to much in and have to pour alittle out due to it kicking back when I push it in.hope this made sense.i really want to get these shocks done and go play lol 55 and will never stop playing
@@tygger420 It does not have to overflow. Just put the oil in close to the top and put the cap on. It just needs to be close to the top.
@@upgradedrc3697 totally understand now thank you so much for taking your time,And I got to say your one of the best out there very precise and plain speaking thank you just got the axial SCX III JT gladiator it will be my go to vehicle can't wait to see all the videos.RC for life.
How did you adjust front end, when you put larger shocks on vehicle with panhard bar it pulls axle to drivers side of vehicle. Basically what size panhard bar did you use and where did you find one that fits?
I adjusted the panhard bar out 2 turns on each end. There is enough thread and adj the steering link out a turn or 2 depending on what you need. I am looking for an adjustable track bar, but can"t find one yet. I might have to make my own lol!
Ya, I'll be making a lot thicker one with lot of threads, if i can't find what i want!
Acx ?
Ya, sorry about that . SCX10iii Lol!